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  1. #26
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    Just get a new battery pack. Geomangear.com is one source.

    To reuse your cells you will have to buy a battery holder (or expensive epoxy) that cost 1/2 as much as a new battery pack, play games with cell protection and charging (maybe buy a new individual cell charger), have additional downtime, etc.

    It's just not worth it in my opinion.

  2. #27
    drunken pirate
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    I just got my magic shine and have a question that I'll ask here instead of starting a new thread.

    I need more burn time - 8 hours or more on high would be good. Is there a ready made battery for sale someplace that will work? Should I just buy two more battery packs from geoman? Should I try and make my own (I'm clueless about all the technical jargon y'all are using above)?
    More Trails, Not Less

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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by driftwood
    I just got my magic shine and have a question that I'll ask here instead of starting a new thread.

    I need more burn time - 8 hours or more on high would be good. Is there a ready made battery for sale someplace that will work? Should I just buy two more battery packs from geoman? Should I try and make my own (I'm clueless about all the technical jargon y'all are using above)?
    I don't think you'll do much better cost wise than getting additional battery packs from geoman. If you're only running one light, getting a second one so you can run both a bar and helmet light will also help out. With a bar and helmet light, I rarely run them on high. That's the great thing about LED lights, they get a good bit more efficient running at lower power. If you run the magicshine on medium, you'll get more than half the light on less than half the power usage. I can measure the current draw on medium and give you an estimated run time....but it should be pretty long. In situations where you don't need as much light, such as a long climb or a fireroad climb, you can save power by switching to low or even turning one of them off. So 2 magicshine lights plus one additional battery pack would probably be a good setup for a ride where you needed 8 hours of light. It would also give you a better backup capability in case one of the lights failed.

    As an interesting coincidence, someone just forwarded me an e-mail yesterday that I believe is from you and probably related to this query........

  4. #29
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    For the price Geoman has a great option for a second battery pack. The time and effort not to mention the potential for mistakes makes the cost to buy a second pack off geoman a deal.

  5. #30
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    7.2v NiMH for the Magicshine

    I have just recieved my DX helmet version Magicshine and was also wondering about extra battery options.

    They specify that the battery voltage is 8.4v which i am assuming is the fully charged voltage of the 2s2p Li-ion pack.
    Now i thought that Li cells were 3.7v.... 2 in series is 7.4V, nominal.

    When I was down at Jaycar buying some extra wire and connectors (so that i can actually mount the thing on my helmet!) I noticed, for not a bad price, some 6 cell, 7.2V 3ah NiMH RC car packs . (You know, those old school "grasshopper" types they used to make with NiCd.)

    Although the rated voltage is lower would this be a problem in driving the light?

    The amp-hour is a little lower, (4.4 vs 3.0) but with the NiMH I probably dont have to worry about discharge levels as much as the factory pack and would be a good second battery to have for the longer rides, If i could get an hour extra out of it that would get me home.

    I am also guessing that a fully charged NiMH pack will have a higher measured voltage than its rating, at least for a few minutes of use.

    Neil.

  6. #31
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    New question here. Purchasing ready made battery packs for extended 8hr high setting run times

    Quote Originally Posted by driftwood
    I just got my magic shine and have a question that I'll ask here instead of starting a new thread.

    I need more burn time - 8 hours or more on high would be good. Is there a ready made battery for sale someplace that will work? Should I just buy two more battery packs from geoman? Should I try and make my own (I'm clueless about all the technical jargon y'all are using above)?
    The associated high current drain required for running the Magicshine MJ-808 for eight hours continuously on its high setting would require getting a rather high current amperage rated 7.4VDC external lithium ion battery pack like this; link posted/provided below:

    http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerl...-techplug.aspx

    This very high current external lithium ion battery pack from the folks over at batteryspace already comes preconfigured with the trail tec type of connectors as well as a nice external enclosure also as well.

    The price of the external battery pack is also competitive at $179.50 for 186.48watt/hours of power(7.4VDC times 25.2aH equals 186.48watt/hours)

    That prices out to a very competitive only 96cents per watt/hour(179.50 divided by 186.48watt/hours equals 96cents per watt/hour)

    For example, in proprietary (Cygolite, Lupine, Niteflux) hi intensity LED lighting systems it is not uncommon to be paying expensive premiums for replacement rechargeable lithium ion battery packs.

    To better help illustrate/clarify this not so obvious and subtle point, see the example supplied below for a Cygolit TridenX series Trion 600/Niteflux Photon Max Extreme(these lights have been selected as they are considered "state of the art" delivering very high levels of superior "lumens per dollar" value to the potential bicycle lighting systems consumer); links supplied below:

    Cygolite Trion600 product page description info :

    http://www.cygolite.com/products/new.../trion600.html

    Cygolite Trion600 main replacment rechargeable lithium ion battery pack:

    http://www.shop.cygolite.com/product...&categoryId=62

    Amazon sourced Cygolite Trion600 main replacement rechargeable lithium ion battery pack:

    http://www.amazon.com/CygoLite-7-6V-...6303063&sr=8-4

    The Cygolite Trion600 main replacement rechargeable lithium ion battery pack is basically a 7.6VDC rechargeable lithium ion battery delivering 2.6aH of battery capacity for $63.60 on amazon.

    So running the same above analysis, 7.4VDC times 2.6aH equals 19.24watt/hours

    Thus $63.60 divided by 19.24 watt/hours equals $3.30watt/hour

    Now compare this with the above 96cents per watt hour of the Magicshine MJ-808 and its non-proprietary open/universal external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack swap in via the trail tech connectors and its any wonder why my preference and bias is towards the more practical and cost efficient universal external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack model being offered in the Magicshine MJ-808 P7 Led Lightset Kit offering.

    Bottom line it appears from the above paragraph rational/logical explanation and insightful cost analysis that one in fact gets about at least three times more external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack run times for the same amount of monies expended which is definitely something to be cheering about.

    Niteflux Photon Max Extreme 20 product page description info:

    http://www.niteflux.com/Products_photonMaxExtreme.aspx

    Niteflux Photon Max Extreme 20 main replacment rechargeable lithium ion battery pack:

    http://www.niteflux.com/BuyBatteries.aspx

    The Niteflux Photon Max Extreme 20 main replacement rechargeable lithium ion battery pack is basically a 14.4VDC rechargeable lithium ion battery delivering 2.2aH of battery capacity for $215.99.

    So running the same above analysis, 14.4VDC times 2.2aH equals 31.68watt/hours

    Thus $215.99 divided by 31.68 watt/hours equals $6.81watt/hour

    Now compare this with the above 96cents per watt hour of the Magicshine MJ-808 and its non-proprietary open/universal external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack swap in via the trail tech connectors and its any wonder why my preference and bias is towards the more practical and cost efficient universal external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack model being offered in the Magicshine MJ-808 P7 Led Lightset Kit offering.

    Bottom line it appears from the above paragraph rational/logical explanation and insightful cost analysis that one in fact gets about at least six times more external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack run times for the same amount of monies expended which is definitely something to be cheering about.

    It is in fact definitely most advantagous to be having the added capability of running and staying in high power lumen intensity setting for three to six times longer running times than normal as opposed to not having the option at all.

    So please, before deciding on purchasing a potential bicycle lighting please do ones due diligence and homework and above analysis. Now if you are ok with the the above inherent additional battery premium costs so be it; for those Cygolite/Niteflux/Lupine fanboys out there, which of course also include the rechargeable lithium ion batteries accelerated replacement due to now known about "lithium ion aging"(explained in following below paragraphs-all the way to end) effects(basically need changing out every three years).

    Just also be aware of the total battery run times will be at least three to six times greater via the P7 Led Magicshine MJ-808 Lightset as explained in the analytical process explained and detailed above all throughout the rechargeable lithium ion battery packs anticipated "lithium ion aged" affected lifetime.

    Also remember, if you do decide to purchase this lithium ion battery or any lithium ion battery in general; that all lithium ion batteries experience what is called an "aging" effect which is not a widely publicized unique drawback of the Lithium Ion battery; is that its life span is dependant upon aging from time of manufacturing (shelf life) regardless of whether it was charged, and not just on the number of charge/discharge cycles.

    At a 100% charge level, a typical Lithium Ion that is full most of the time at 25 degrees C(77degrees F), will irreversibly lose approximately 20% permanent total capacity per year. This capacity begins from the time it was manufactured, and occurs even when the rechargeable lithium ion battery is unused.

    This phenomenon is called "aging of lithium ion" rechargeable cells and is an issue that is often ignored entirely. Apparently, the lithium ion cell capacity loss manifests itself in increased lithium ion cell internal resistance caused via internal oxidation "rusting" of the the lithium ion rechargeable cell and is unfortunately unavoidable.

    Eventually, this lithium ion rechargeable cell resistance reaches a point where the lithium ion pack can no longer deliver the stored energy although the battery may still have ample charge. Unfortunately there are no remedies to restore a lithium ion rechargeable cell once it is worn out.

    To help illustrate and now apply this newfound knowledge of what is called the "aging" effect on rechargeable lithium ion battery packs and further help to explain this often entirely ignored point see below one example for a 4.4aH external lithium ion battery pack and the other one a 25.2aH external lithium ion battery pack; which should prove interesting as we now know about the undesirable "effects" of rechargeable lithium ion battery aging:

    4.4aH divided by 1.20 equals 3.66aH after one year use
    3.66aH divided by 1.20 equals 3.05aH after two years use
    3.05aH divided by 1.20 equals 2.54aH after three years use
    2.54aH divided by 1.20 equals 2.12aH after four years use
    2.12aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.77aH after five years use
    1.77aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.47aH after six years use
    1.47aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.23aH after seven years use
    1.23aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.02aH after eight years use

    25.2aH divided by 1.20 equals 21.0aH after one year use
    21.0aH divided by 1.20 equals 17.5aH after two years use
    17.5aH divided by 1.20 equals 14.58aH after three years use
    14.58aH divided by 1.20 equals 12.15aH after four years use
    12.15aH divided by 1.20 equals 10.12aH after five years use
    10.12aH divided by 1.20 equals 8.44aH after six years use
    8.44aH divided by 1.20 equals 7.03aH after seven years use
    7.03aH divided by 1.20 equals 5.86aH after eight years use
    5.86aH divided by 1.20 equals 4.88aH after nine years use
    4.88aH divided by 1.20 equals 4.06aH after ten years use
    4.06aH divided by 1.20 equals 3.39aH after eleven years use
    3.39aH divided by 1.20 equals 2.83aH after twelve years use
    2.83aH divided by 1.20 equals 2.36aH after thirteen years use
    2.36aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.96aH after fourteen years use
    1.96aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.63aH after fifteen years use
    1.63aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.36aH after sixteen years use
    1.36aH divided by 1.20 equals 1.14aH after seventeen years use

    As we can see from the two above timeline illustration/scenarios the effects of lithium ion "aging" effects on toal lightset runtime.

    Notice in particular the 4.4aH rechargeable lithium ion battery pack after three years only has only 2.5aH left in battery capacity.

    Also notice in particular the 8.8aH rechargeable lithium ion battery pack after the same three years has 14.58aH left in battery capacity, and in fact does not fall to the approximately same 2.5aH battery capacity level(4.4aH battery pack) for about another additional ten years; for a net combined total of thirteen years effective use from the same external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack.

    The two major "take away points" here is, get a slightly plus sized capacity rated lithium ion battery for your particular battery running times application(its simply put, an energy storage device/tool; size it accordingly); you get what you pay for and also use but don't abuse your lithium ion battery pack so that it can take care of your battery run applications in an optimal manner by not running the battery beyond its more than 60% of total rated capacity(4400maH times 0.60 equals 2640maH) before recharging it.

    cheers
    Last edited by daniel58; 10-23-2009 at 06:49 AM. Reason: Edited/Updated new information and amplifying commentary feedback

  7. #32
    drunken pirate
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    Thanks for the info and advice. Two magicshines does seem to make the most sense, I suppose, but I am very happy with the output of just one on my helmet and was thinking that a big battery is all I need. I can buy two additional batteries and that would be more than enough burn time for me for less than the cost of two lights.... decisions, decisions...

    MtbMacgyver, the forwarded query you got was not from me but I very much appreciate your thoughtful response.
    More Trails, Not Less

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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishMan473
    This is a little OT but you guys seem to know what you're talking about so I thought I could ask here:

    Last night my wife had an incident where her battery pack for her Magicshine light got caught up in her front wheel and was torn apart. It looks like all of the pieces are still there but, well, its in pieces. I am sure I can solder the wires back together, but I unsure how to connect the cells together to form the battery. I know that soldering is not safe, and it looks like they were maybe pressed together before. Is this something I could do (safely) in my shop if I am careful with a vice or tapping with hammer and pick? Could I get away with just taping everything together tightly, or would the connections break regularly?

    sdnative, I am probably going to get some of your holders to use with some other cells I have left over from another light. What else would I need to complete that project?
    Email GeoMan (click here). There might be an easier solution... Hehe.

    Geo
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  9. #34
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by driftwood
    Thanks for the info and advice. Two magicshines does seem to make the most sense, I suppose, but I am very happy with the output of just one on my helmet and was thinking that a big battery is all I need. I can buy two additional batteries and that would be more than enough burn time for me for less than the cost of two lights.... decisions, decisions...

    MtbMacgyver, the forwarded query you got was not from me but I very much appreciate your thoughtful response.
    Remember one can also use of course Nickel metal hydride battery pack(low cost) or Nickel cadmium battery pack(ultra low cost) also as well; so long as it adds up to 7.2VDC and has sufficient amperage to get the illumination job done that fits your needs and preference battery chemistry battery pack its all good if it extends the run times.

    cheers

  10. #35
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    I bought a magicshine lighthead alone, and am using it with my 7.4v LiPo RC car batteries (yeah, I know its not protected by PCB, I just unplug it after a few hours of riding). Frankkly, I have a high end charger and many batteries sitting around, so I thought why not use em. Specifically, I am using this battery here.
    i'm no pro at this, just reading a lot on line and trying to safely experiment. So far its working great.
    Questions for the battery/electronics experts.... magicshine description on geoman's site says "Digital Regulated 2400mA Current Output". I've been trying to estimate runtime for my 5AH and 8AH LiPo packs.... well I hooked up the 5AH battery to the lighthead with my multimeter in between and measured a steady 1.4 amps.

    So, is this possible, given that light description would indicate its supposed to draw 2.4 amps?
    How can manufacturer claim 3+ hour runtime from 4x18650 batteries, a pack of probably 4400mah, if its drawing 2.4 amps?
    Finally, if 1.4amp draw is accurate, then my 5AH battery should last 5AH divided by 1.4amps= 3.57 hours, right?

    Thanks for everyone's advice & feedback.

    PS- I am eager to buy a 2nd lighthead and run BOTH in parallel circuit to my 8AH battery....

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfxc
    I bought a magicshine lighthead alone, and am using it with my 7.4v LiPo RC car batteries

    ...


    Questions for the battery/electronics experts.... magicshine description on geoman's site says "Digital Regulated 2400mA Current Output". I've been trying to estimate runtime for my 5AH and 8AH LiPo packs.... well I hooked up the 5AH battery to the lighthead with my multimeter in between and measured a steady 1.4 amps.
    The led is driven at 2.4A, ~3.5V, so the 1.4A, 7.4V from your battery gets converted to that in the driver. Volts go down, current goes up.
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
    A few Dynamo builds and some Small battery lights

  12. #37
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by rfxc
    I bought a magicshine lighthead alone, and am using it with my 7.4v LiPo RC car batteries (yeah, I know its not protected by PCB, I just unplug it after a few hours of riding). Frankkly, I have a high end charger and many batteries sitting around, so I thought why not use em. Specifically, I am using this battery here.
    i'm no pro at this, just reading a lot on line and trying to safely experiment. So far its working great.
    Questions for the battery/electronics experts.... magicshine description on geoman's site says "Digital Regulated 2400mA Current Output". I've been trying to estimate runtime for my 5AH and 8AH LiPo packs.... well I hooked up the 5AH battery to the lighthead with my multimeter in between and measured a steady 1.4 amps.

    So, is this possible, given that light description would indicate its supposed to draw 2.4 amps?
    How can manufacturer claim 3+ hour runtime from 4x18650 batteries, a pack of probably 4400mah, if its drawing 2.4 amps?
    Finally, if 1.4amp draw is accurate, then my 5AH battery should last 5AH divided by 1.4amps= 3.57 hours, right?

    Thanks for everyone's advice & feedback.

    PS- I am eager to buy a 2nd lighthead and run BOTH in parallel circuit to my 8AH battery....
    Yes that is right, your multimeter is giving the correct lowdown at about 1.4amps on high setting with a 4.4aH battery pack about three hours run time approximately(if needed see my comprehensive post on this topic and others; as I go through a comprehensive derivation from provided source information-its quite a comprehensive read but its thorough; and should assist in helping you understand what is going on as you are experimenting and getting ready to run your 2nd lighthead in parallel with a external battery)

    Ultimate bike light search

    What is a source of common confusion, is in fact it is quite common for LED lightsets to use what is called a "buck" LED driver that brings the actual 7.4VDC battery voltage down to what the LED source actually uses which is usually at a much lower voltage and in the process it also correspondingly delivers a specified regulated higher current that stays constant even as the battery voltage goes down; that is why the MS lightset's led lumen output can maintain a constant lumen output at 200lumen for low, 500lumen for medium and about 600lumen or so for high intensity setting.

    Yes that is right on ones 5ah battery that should last a little over three hours.

    Remember, Lithium Ion polymer chemistry deteriorates at a rate of twenty percent per year of total battery capacity(if needed see my comprehensive post regarding this)

    Homebrew battery packs for Magicshine P7

    Also, if one is charging a high amperage battery pack that is nearly entirely drained you may want to reference this post for additional information:

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...&postcount=152

    I also go into as well some other considerations when considering a double lightset, you may want to reference this post for additional information:

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...&postcount=150

    cheers to more lumens utilizing a double lighthead
    Last edited by daniel58; 10-29-2009 at 08:19 PM.

  13. #38
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    Thanks znomit & daniel58! Good advice, thanks for checking my sanity.

    Interesting, I have the 3 mode light (hi-low-flash) and on low mode it is still quite bright, and draws only .5 amps. Makes me wonder whether i could mount the lighthead AND small battery on the helmet, use only low mode, with an approx 2000mah battery and still get 3-4 hr runtime.

  14. #39
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    New question here. Reply feedback followup

    Quote Originally Posted by rfxc
    Thanks znomit & daniel58! Good advice, thanks for checking my sanity.

    Interesting, I have the 3 mode light (hi-low-flash) and on low mode it is still quite bright, and draws only .5 amps. Makes me wonder whether i could mount the lighthead AND small battery on the helmet, use only low mode, with an approx 2000mah battery and still get 3-4 hr runtime.
    Yes, that is right it should be close to 440ma to 500ma ball park on low setting and would be equivalent to lets say something in lumen intensity to a dinotte 200lumen LED lighthead engine; which should be probably ok for conservatively riding ones bicycle 10mph or so at night and for higher speed downhill passes use the high setting sparingly.

    Usually with a helmet mounting one can get away with placing the minute and small lightweight battery pack in ones rear cycling jersey pockets as the battery pack is not much larger than a powerbar. If one needs an extension cable because it is to short to reach; Geomangear carries them at:

    http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...roducts_id=152

    Geomangear of course also carries, spare replacement Lithium Ion 4.4aH batteries also as well which are nice, small in profile and lightweight at:

    http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...roducts_id=141

    cheers to more lumens via double LED lightheads
    Last edited by daniel58; 10-29-2009 at 08:49 PM.

  15. #40
    viva la v-brakes!
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    I'd just like to publicly thank GeoMan for sending us a replacement battery pack for the one my wife broke. That was above and beyond. Thanks.

    PS: She's using it right now, riding home from the end of the year meeting for her ladies MTB team.
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  16. #41
    GeoMan
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishMan473
    I'd just like to publicly thank GeoMan for sending us a replacement battery pack for the one my wife broke. That was above and beyond. Thanks.

    PS: She's using it right now, riding home from the end of the year meeting for her ladies MTB team.
    Ah, thanks. Nice to hear when your efforts are appreciated!

    Hope you wife had a great ride!

    Best,

    Geo
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  17. #42
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    Idea! battery bottle holder

    battery bottle holder,

    here is one I did,

    to reuse the existing magicshine battery's
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Homebrew battery packs for Magicshine P7-imgp8460_magicshine_2xbatterie_holder.jpg  

    ----
    DIY battery + light working on it

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishMan473
    I'd just like to publicly thank GeoMan for sending us a replacement battery pack for the one my wife broke. That was above and beyond. Thanks.

    PS: She's using it right now, riding home from the end of the year meeting for her ladies MTB team.
    This kinda service with this product's value per dollar (most bicycle accesory parts and the industry-in-general don't seem to get how tough times are right now & are still asking the same margins) is too amazing not to go ahead and upgrade my lighting system so I can get a flashing mode for safety in traffic. I will be ordering one from u soon geo. (Even though my old HID L&M Arc is still working fine.)

  19. #44
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    Hey mtb_robs-x,

    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_robs-x
    battery bottle holder,

    here is one I did,

    to reuse the existing magicshine battery's

    That's a real nice looking bottle you modded. The results look really nice. Would you mind telling where you bought it?

    Thanks,

    Mark
    Nimium est melior!

  20. #45
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    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  21. #46
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    Mark, they are available on ebay .....
    .
    BBB Tools & Tubes Can/ Bottle Screw Top

    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  22. #47
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    I'm building myself a couple 2 cell packs for my Magicshine for either my short commutes to work (35-40 minutes) or for helmet mounting. My 18650 cells are not protected. I bought these protection circuits:

    http://www.all-battery.com/pcbfor74v...865032056.aspx

    I'm having some trouble with the wiring.

    I have the 2 cells wired in series. I have connected the PCB B+ to the positive end of one cell, the B- to the negative end of the other cell, and the COM to the brass tab that I soldered between the other ends of the cells. When I measure the voltage between the P+ and P- on the circuit board, I get nothing. I currently have the P+ going to the positive lead on the light connector, and the B- going to the negative lead. I think I'm probably defeating the protection functions of the board with this wiring, but that's the only place I get 2 cell voltage (8.4v). I get 1 cell voltage (4.2v) between the P+ and the COM, and 1 cell voltage between the P- and the COM.

    The cells were fully charged when I started. I used one of the DSD chargers to help ensure that the cells were relatively well balanced before beginning. The light works, and has some decent run time (2,800mah cells), but I'm concerned about the protection. Could the board be duff? I have 3 more here. I had planned on building 3 more packs, but I now know that my protection boards are meant for 2 cell packs. I was going to build another 2 cell pack, as well as a 4 cell and a 6 cell (8,400 mah for dual bar mounted lights).

    Help!

  23. #48
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    couple toughts/tips

    after you get the pcb on, you'd need to plug it in a charger, aka apply voltage,
    to activate the circuit.
    not recommending putting the cells together , unless they are matched and balanced,
    that requires some know how and a fancy charger.
    I'd recommend, get the packs prebuild, and go from there.
    and at some point, replace that ms cheap charger, with a better quality one.
    one thing you'd forgot, instead of the cooper bar,... what I don't recommend, since the soldering requires more/exessive heat,... is to put a fuse in-between.
    don't forget to seal the battery.
    other tip, you can still do 2cell packs and put those afterwards together, again the pre - after matching is important, before sealing. 6-8cell don't recommend doing yourself.
    if you need a larger pack, you can contact me.
    note: larger packs require , new charger, for charge time and safty.
    cheers, Rob
    ----
    DIY battery + light working on it

  24. #49
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    Thanks for the feedback Rob. When I get home, I'll move the negative wire from the B- back to the P- and then plug it into my charger.

    I have been using the Tenergy smart charger (http://www.all-battery.com/universal...v1-4cells.aspx) for my 14.8v LiPo pack which I built for my Nite Rider HID light about 2 years ago. My charger has a switch for 3.7, 7.4, 11.1 and 14.7v and charges at 500mah. I'm certain that I'll have no trouble with a home built 6 cell pack. I'm not after perfect balance/performance, and with all the cells being fully charged before assembly, I'll be satisfied with the level of balance that I achieve. I have 3 of the DSD chargers, so when I assemble the pack, the charge will be at the same level for all the cells.

    As far as the brass tab, I tinned the brass and the end of the cell with solder, and my iron is an adjustable temperature controlled iron (Pace). I have plenty of fast heat, and lots of practice soldering. Very little heat is transfered to the internals of the battery.

  25. #50
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    That did the trick. Both my 2 cell packs are in the Plasti-Dip stage right now. They're working great so far.

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