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  1. #1
    Gone riding
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    Home Made Bike Light Database

    I think there are now enough home made and modified light builds out there to warrant a dedicated database!

    Please use the template provided below in your post as a guide, but feel free to modify it as necessary for your purpose. Linking in the manner demonstrated to the websites of the various components or resources that you have used as they are mentioned would be appreciated. All lights and builds are more then welcome!

    Please keep this thread as a pure database. Start a new thread if you would like to make a comment or ask a question!

    Cheers, Dave.



    Light Source:

    List what type of bulbs or emitters you use, how many, and what the model number or bin code is if you know.
    Voltage or drive current as appropriate would be nice too.

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    List what you use or have tried, and what you like and dislike.

    Housing:

    List where you have purchased housings, or how you have made housings, and from what materials.

    Power Source:

    List your battery chemistry, voltage and capacity. Also provide details on your charger if you like.
    Connector choice could go here too.

    Regulator:

    If you are regulating the power to your light source, list what device you are using, and feel free to list any setup details.

    Additional comments:

    Anything goes. Construction method, mounting solutions, likes and dislikes, future upgrades.
    Perhaps you could provide a link to an existing thread discussing your light if you wish.

    Photos:

    Photos are encouraged, but please keep them to a reasonable size.
    Last edited by Low_Rider; 05-13-2007 at 08:33 AM.

  2. #2
    I ride a Swarf
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    Modified lighsta re allowed...cool

    This is combined for my triple and double...i will highlight any differences

    I have a more detailed thread in my sig that shows the mods (I haven't added any detail about swapping out the optics yet)

    Light Source:

    3 and 2 Seoul P4 LEDs driven at 1 amp and below. Original LEDs were Luxeon 3

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    Initially I used the stock optics. Even with the orignal lux the beam is ringy with more of an emphasis on a hot spot. The triple floodyness is provided by the front plastic being frosted on the outside leds.

    I am still juggling reflector choice, but Khadod and IMS 20m optics fit when the plastic LED clamp is removed. Luckily these reflectors are just the right size ot fit AND provide the clamping mechanism for the LEDs when the front of the housing is screwed on.

    Triple
    So far the best reflector setup seems to be have 2 Khatod narrow beans on the outside and a wide/flood in the middle. The frosting of the fron plastic softens the spots a bit to give a smoother bigger hot spot.

    Double
    I think throw is more important on the double for helmet use. So far I have only tried 2 Khatod narrow beams. 1 of the wides do give flood, if you want to use the double as a bar light.

    I have more IMS and some McR reflectors on the way to try.

    Housing:

    Stock cateye housings.

    Power Source:

    1) stock cateye battery and integral controller
    2)14.8V 2.2Ah LiIon (used with nFlax)

    Regulator:


    See above

    1) The stock controller seems happy enough. It should run at 700mA (I need ot test)

    2) nFlex set to 1 amp and 2 lower levels (need to measure lower level currents). nFlex seems like agreat unit so far.

    Additional comments:

    This set up is loads brighter than stock!

    I already mentioned I want to try other reflectors.

    I need to wire up a remote switch for the neflex.

    I need to do more testiing especially on the stock controller. I am going to to back to back run time tests on the stock bat/controller against astock triple (my mates). Run time should be improved, but the triple had a fair bit of dimming after 2 hours. I need to chase this up as it should be better than stock.

    When on the lowest nflex setting (which ever one I chose hehe) it is still bright enough to easliy fix a punny....but doesn't get warm when not in moving air. The housing gets warm in both stock and modded setups when not in moving air and driven by the stock controller levels or above (to be expected).

    hoping to go the whole hog and do a DIY housing before taking tha cateyes much further...they are a good test bed for my light ideas/preferences though .

    I will do a new entry for project CopperHead.


    Photos:

    see my link in my siggy

    Stu
    Last edited by Stuart B; 05-14-2007 at 01:35 PM.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    Light Source:
    12V MR16 20W bulbs, currently using 1 30* flood, 1 9* spot. Overvolted to 14.4V, using Lightbrain controller to give 5 light levels.

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:
    Nothing special, using the sealed MR16 bulb

    Housing:

    Started with the "Pond Scum" setup, then moved to custom-machined aluminum housing

    Power Source:

    Batteryspace 14.4V 5000mAh waterbottle pack, NiMH with supplied connector

    Regulator:

    As mentioned above, using the Lightbrain Twin-Plus controller, http://www.trailheadlights.com/

    Additional comments:

    Currently trying to decide if I want to keep the flood/spot combo, or go with dual spots. Also looking into ideas for fine-tuning the angle of the beams independently to better light the trail.

    Photos:

    Coming soon! (I hope)

  4. #4
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    My pair of dual Cree lights


    Light Source:

    4x Cree XR-E (P4 bin)

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    Ledil square optics:

    Helmet mounted pair: 1x smooth spot, 1x diffuser
    Bar mounted pair: 1x diffuser, 1x medium

    Housing:

    2x dual LED "achesalot" DIY alloy housings



    Power Source:

    9.6v 2500mAh NiMH- 1 for each light pair

    Regulator:

    BuckPuck at 1000mAh.

    Additional comments:

    Still finishing them... (actually I'm making 6 units as a couple of friends want them too)

    Photos:

    Photos are encouraged, but please keep them to a reasonable size.[/QUOTE]

  5. #5
    Gone riding
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    Housing:

    Iím using a very early Night Lightning Endurenz housing from Eric, which is a little longer then the current offerings and has a few extra fins for extra cooling. It has seen a few different emitters in its life! Mounting the light to the bars I have successfully used a modified version of the system that Night Lightning use which is based on a CatEye mount, but now I have made the switch to an oversized Lupine handlebar mount rather than the CatEye mounting option.

    My regulator on this light is mounted separately to the light, in a Night Lightning in line housing, with a waterproof momentary switch.


    Light Source:

    Most of the time I have run my light with three high binned Lumileds Luxeon III emitters, running at 1000mA in series. Unfortunately Iíve lost track of the exact bin I have. I have also experimented with Luxeon V emitters and some Luxeon K2 emitters at various drive currents from time to time too.

    All of these emitters have been mounted on Stars of various types, lapped and bolted to the housing with some Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound.


    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    The great thing about the Night Lightning housing is that you are not limited to any particular optic or reflector. As a result I have experimented quite a bit, although mainly with 20mm optics. For most of the time I ran the light with a triple Carclo P10003 optic setup. I have tried a lot of different optics from many different manufacturers, but very few provided the optical quality that I found with the Carclo Optics.

    I often tried a single P10003/15 and double P10003 setup, and while it provided a superior beam to the triple P10003 arrangement my emitters just didnít have the lumen horsepower required to make use of them. I always ended up putting the Carclo P10003 optics back in, which gave a 9 degree beam angle with the Luxeon III emitters.


    Power Source:

    For power I have always run a 4 cell 14.8 volt, 2.2Ah Lithium Ion pack built by Siomar, but purchased through Night Lightning. This pack has been used quite regularly for the last three years without any issues, apart from a recent failure which was caused by my own negligence. Luckily I found that the protection circuitry in these packs is top quality!

    I use Molex 0.062" Standard 2-pin connectors, part numbers 03-06-2023 and 03-06-1023. These have the clips removed, and are used by Night Lightning and Stenlight in their lights too.


    Regulator:

    I have used a few constant current regulators of my own (crude) design from time to time, and have successfully ran these poor Luxeon III emitters at around 1400mA for quite some time. For most of the time though I have used an nFlex from George at TaskLED, running the 1000mA drive current table.


    Additional comments:

    This is my old lighting setup, which has now been upgraded to a triple Seoul P4 emitter arrangement, running at 1000mA with some extra new goodies. Iím constantly playing with optics and reflectors in the quest for the ultimate beam.

    Iíll make another post with my latest setup once Iím happy with it and have cleaned things up a little!


    Photos:











  6. #6
    mtbr member
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    Light Source:
    Nichia 5mm LEDs (I think the last set I had were 12000mcd)
    Luxeon 1,3,5 watt LEDs various batches
    Lamina 5W LEDs

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:
    Carclo 20mm
    NX05s 20mm
    Fraen 20, 30mm + triples
    Various unknown ones

    Housing:
    DIY (various)
    Modded (from Vistalite & Nitrider)
    Night Lighting (very nice aluminium housings available)

    Power Source:
    Anything goes here, Alkiline, NiCd, NiMH, Gel cels, Lithium, etc... in various cell sizes. I have also used a NX-30 generator hub.

    Regulator:

    As well as various others from TaskLED & Sandwich Shoppe, in addition to several DIY versions.

    Additional comments:
    I probably started building and using LEDs as a primary (and only) night riding light before most people, starting with arrays of 5mm Nichia LEDs - I did my first 24HR race with an array of 51 - 5mm LEDs (and no other light) in 2001. There must have been $100 worth of LEDs in that thing!

    Photos:


    An array of 51 Nichia 5mm LEDs, driving at 1A from a buck regulator, and any battery from 4.5V to 18V. This was my first serious LED trail light.


    Four 1W Luxeons with Fraen optics, and a boost regulator running of a 6V battery.


    An early 2x 5W Luxeon with 30mm Fraen optics, and TaskLED buck controllers and anything from 7.5V to 20V battery - still in use today.



    2 DIY units using Night Lighting's housing, Luxeon-IIIs

    left using Carclo optic, right using a modified Fraen tri-optic, both are boost regulated from a 6V battery.

    PS: I'll update the pictures as I hunt them down.

  7. #7
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    Light Source:

    3 cree P4 LEDs driven at 1 amp

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    kaidomain cree optics - no idea on specs

    Housing:

    we all know the one - 3 tubes of square aluminium - mines a bit different with some nice bling finishing touches (carbon, purple nuts)

    Power Source:

    12 x aa batteries ni-mh 2200mah

    Regulator:

    ebay buck one from germany

    Photos:




    my bike - old kona


  8. #8
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    Light Source:

    Three Seoul P4 U bins.

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    This light uses two 8.4 degree optics and one 20 degree Carclo Lenses.

    Housing:

    Aluminium tubing epoxied together, with various aluminium bits and pieces.

    Power Source:

    Tenergy Li-ion 18650. 14.8volt 4400mAh.

    Regulator:

    Luxeon Buckpuck 3023.

    Additional comments:

    One switch is for on/off one is for High beam, Medium beam and low beam.

    Additional Comments:

    This is my second light after my original one which had a wider beam pattern. I'm intending to use this as a helmet mount light and the other as a bar mount.


    Photos:













    Tony
    Last edited by Tony_J_Ross; 07-31-2007 at 05:14 AM.

  9. #9
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    My Dual Cree XR-E Bike Headlight

    Light Source:

    Dual Cree XR-E (P4bin) driven @ 1000mA

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    Dual L2 Optics OPTX 1-006 Lenses

    Housing:

    Housing is hand made from 1-1/4-inch square tubing and 1-inch bar stock sourced from smallparts.com. Design was based on that at http://myfwyc.org/bikeled/DIY_LED_Bi...ing_Guide.html and modified slightly. Acrylic lens was fabricated by cutting a section of plastic out of a broken-off cassette player door found on the sidewalk.


    Power Source:

    Battery is 8xAA NiMH 2500mAH cells for 9.6V total.

    Regulator:

    TaskLED's excellent bFlex driver in UIB mode.

    Additional comments:

    I wanted to design a compact light similar to the Dinotte but brighter. I think I've succeeded. Here's the original thread I posted after finishing the light.

    Photos:



    Additional photos at Flickr.

    More info at my website.

  10. #10
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    Modified Achesalot design


    Front Mount
    4 X sscp4 with a fatman boost driver from taskled driven at 800ma
    http://www.taskled.com/fatman.html
    2x6degree L2 optics
    2X15 degree L2 optics outside mount
    bar mounted 50kohm slide potentiometer with velcro attachment for dimming
    5000mah 9v NiMH battery pack

    Front Shock mount
    Helmet Mount
    2 X sscp4 on helmet mount driven by 3023 DE from Luxeon driven at 1000ma
    2X5 degree L2 optics

    5k ohm rotary potentiometer built into housing for dimming
    using AA Nimh battery pack in camel back

    All optics and 3023 driver came from LED supply
    http://www.ledsupply.com/index.php

    LEDs came from deal extreme
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445


    Guestimate of @ 1200 lumens and 3+ hours of burn time on full power as I never ride that long

    Updated design with pics coming later

  11. #11
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    Light Source:

    3 x Seoul P4 U-bin stars

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    One of these: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4630
    This is a 50mm triple optic, plastic, of unspecified beam width. 3 pack of these optics was $9.95

    Housing:

    1 x 170g can of Woolworths home brand tomato paste with ring-pull lid
    50mm x 3mm piece of aluminium
    40 x 40 x 1mm aluminium 90 degree angle
    3mm x 40mm bolts
    Aluminium rivets

    Helmet mount:

    PVC pipe
    Old inner tube
    19mm wide elastic
    150mm x 19mm wide velcro
    rivets


    Power Source:

    Lithium Ion 14.8V 2.2Ah
    http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=509


    Regulator:

    TaskLED bFlex, UIB, set at 1A but not running max brightness.

    Construction:

    Open your can of tomato paste, remove paste, use it to add flavour to your dinner (try a Moroccan tagine with chicken, pumpkin, carrots, preserved lemon...)

    After you have eaten, wash out the can and carefully cut it about 2/3 of the way down. I used a Dremel knockoff tool, a hacksaw also works with a gentle touch and some patience. Take the bottom part of the can and cut off another cm or so, then use your dremel/hacksaw to open it down the seam and take out a couple of mm (the lower part of the can gets pushed inside the upper half so needs to have some flexibility). Where the seam meets the bottom of the can, make the opening big enough for your power wire to get in (I used a few layers of glue lined heatsink to protect the wire from being cut, heating it also lets you bend it so the wire exits at the desired angle).

    Take your 50x3mm aluminium and cut/grind an oval piece so that it is a very tight fit inside the can. This will take some time and care. Luckily it doesn't need to be perfectly oval as the can is thin enough to deform, but symmetrical and gradual curves helps. Alternately if you start with some slightly wider metal (the internal diameter of the can is around 53mm) you could cut a circle out with a drill press and hole saw etc. Your SSc/Cree stars will mount to the front of this. Drill a hole near one of the edges for your power wire to come through from the back.

    Take your optic, cut the legs off it and drill 3mm holes for your bolts where the legs were. You should find that the optic rests neatly in the rim of the can, flush with the top. Work out where these holes will align on the metal plate where you are mounting your stars, drill the holes in this plate small enough so that your bolts will cut their own threads (means you won't need bolts, helps if you ever wish to disassemble the front of the light, e.g. to upgrade your LEDs). Unfortunately I drilled the holes while planning on using the bolts, and now the light is all riveted together, if I ever remove the optic...

    Cut some angle aluminium to attach to the back of this plate, use an irish spanner and other suitable tools to round out part of this so it will make good contact with the inside of the can. This should help conduct the heat to the body of the can, as well as providing the support to mount your bracket. Drill appropriate mounting holes to bolt this securely to the plate the LEDs mount on

    Work out all your internal wiring and solder up your stars. If you leave enough a few cm slack wire between your bFlex and the stars it gives you flexibility in positioning the optic on the stars as well as ease of replacing the stars if you want to upgrade later on.
    Solder everything up and test before you close up the can.

    Mount your bFlex on the base of the can (I used some plastic and epoxy), drill a small hole for the bFlex switch to poke through.

    Position your stars in the optic, and screw it down to the mounting plate (use some heatsink paste under the stars) If the plate was too far back in the can it should be pulled up as you tighten the screws, otherwise you may need to push back on the optic until it sits on the rim of the can.

    Push the back half of the can iside the front half, align so it's all neat and tidy, then drill holes for your rivets though both parts of the can and the angle aluminium inside which is your bracket support. Cut another 30x40mm piece of 1mm aluminium to attach to the outside of the can underneath the angle, to which you can attach your helmet/bar mount of choice. Drill holes, align, and rivet everything together.

    My helmet mount is very simple, made of a piece of PVC drainpipe which is fixed (more rivets) to the aluminium plate under the can. Heat the PVC with a butane torch (don't inhale) to shape. I have it shaped away from the hemet to provide some tension in the velcro. Cut slots in the PVC through which to slide the velcro, have it so the hook side faces away from your head when fastened though your helmet vents. I also used some doubled over 19mm wide elastic on one side to attach the velcro, after finding it difficult to get sufficient tension to stop my previous (commercial!) helmet light sliding around. A bit of old inner tube glued to the PVC protects the helmet from scratches and stops the light sliding.

    Photos:

    Coming soon

  12. #12
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    Light Source:

    2 Seoul P4 LED (bin code: USXPI)
    drive current: about 830mAh

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    20mm collimator x 2
    6 and 10 degree

    Housing:

    made of heatsink
    20 x 45 mm sized heatsink x 6

    Power Source:

    7.4V 6600mAh lithium ion battery
    (originally, I use this battery with 6V 10W Halogen light)

    Burning time:

    about 8 hours

    Regulator:

    one 5W 1.2ohm resistor only
    didn'y use regulator

    Photos:





  13. #13
    mtbr member
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    I couldn't edit my post so updated Link to pictures

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...18#post3473018

  14. #14
    Flaccid Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by aljsk8
    Light Source:

    3 cree P4 LEDs driven at 1 amp

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    kaidomain cree optics - no idea on specs

    Housing:

    we all know the one - 3 tubes of square aluminium - mines a bit different with some nice bling finishing touches (carbon, purple nuts)

    Power Source:

    12 x aa batteries ni-mh 2200mah

    Regulator:

    ebay buck one from germany

    Photos:




    my bike - old kona


    What's the cost of your Bill of Materials? How much total did it run you to build your light?
    "i'll brazilian when YOU do boy, right around the ol' rusty star. Actually, whole fruit bowl. Get on it!" NicoleB

  15. #15
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    not sure we are ment to post in here (aside from origional post) but....

    aluminium tube from ebay 4 peices cut to size: 10GBP
    carbon peices cnc cut (fibre-lyte): 12GBP
    driver - ebay: 15GBP
    L.E.Ds cree p4 from dealextreme: 9GBP
    optics - dealextreme: 4GBP
    wire - had already
    thermal paste - had already: 1GBP WORTH
    conectors and switches: 5GBP
    handlebar mount: 5GBP
    screws washers and nuts: 2GBP
    battery holders: 2GBP

    TOTAL: 65GBP ($130)

    BATTERIES ARE 12AA 2000MAH NIMH there all different prices everywhere

    really i could have bought a propper light for this money but this way i could get a few bits every few weeks so it was easy for my financial situation!

    hope this helps

  16. #16
    mtbr member
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    3 seoul
    3021
    15, 5, 15 deg
    12AA 2600mah
    Attached Images Attached Images

  17. #17
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    Here's a light that I made back in 2004... I recently re-discovered it while getting back into biking, and made some changes as I now have a milling machine (the nice clamp style mount!). Obviously most don't have a milling machine, and what I used originally was a piece of stainless hose clamp that I rivetted to the housing and then bolted to the front of the stem, through one of the bolts.

    The light housing was made out of Copper - PVC fittings and a compression repair fitting from Lowes / Home Depot. The lights are MR-11, 10W Spot and Flood. Originally I had a 12V gel cell battery back-up running the lights which worked great. However, this light set sat for a couple of years, so I hooked my DeWalt 14.4V cordless drill battery to it, with a little brighter light, a little less duration... The light with the DeWalt battery will last a full hour though.

    The first light set I made was with MR-16's 20W. I made it the same way only out of PVC fittings... Within 20 minutes, it drooped the lights and caught fire, so, thus the reason for going to MR-11's.

    None the less, it puts out pleanty of light, and of course that's not enough, so it's back to the milling machine with some aluminum blanks to make a full-on metal pod(s) for the MR-16's.

    I don't know anything about LED's yet, so I'll stick to Halogens for now.

    MPB
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #18
    fuggansonofahowa
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    Another achesalot creation - thanks, Allen.

    Light Source:

    Seoul P4 (U-bin) - 3 each

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    20mm round optics for Luxeons from ledsupply.com (2-15deg straddling 1-5deg)

    Housing:

    Same physical design as achesalot (link) with the noted exceptions:
    - 1/8" thick straight stock used for led backing and for back of light (to offset stat led, pushbutton & cable connector).
    - side knobs for easier adjustment (Lowes).
    - Heatsink - cut and sized from stock ATI 1600 video card - low profile. Lapped surfaces for maximum heat transfer (400, 1000, 1500 grit).
    - Lexan front sealed with GE Lexan silicone sealant.
    - Green stat led from Radio Shack - panel mount.

    Power Source:

    Batteryspace.com 14.8V Li-ion, 5200mAh - haven't verified full runtimes yet. Should be 6+ hrs or so.
    Connector and cable also from batteryspace.com. Waterproof battery cables and strain-relief connector - taped and heatshrunk.

    Regulator:

    Bflex-UIB2 v1.00 driver (nice job, George), running at stock except for 1000mA current drive level {350mA default}, Thermal protection set at 70degC {disabled default}, VStat set to 10 seconds {disabled default}.


    Additional comments:

    Wowser - some serious light from this little beast. The heatsink is attached with Arctic Silver adhesive and adds quite a bit of additional cooling. The light can sit at full draw and get pretty warm, but not as hot as reported. Of course, it is a New England fall, and the ambient is down to 60degF or so (much cooler at night). Makes a nice hand warmer.

    Left to do: waterproofing - I'll seal seams with silicone and glue on a boot for the pushbutton. Maybe do some finishing - brush or polish.

    Now I need to mod my Cygolite DualCross. When I got it, it was bright. Now it pales. Will replace the Luxeon stars with Cree Q5's for my next project (a much easier one).

    Photos:






  19. #19
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    I pretty much copied aschelots guide with some mods
    Light Source:

    3 cree xr-e / 3.7v each? 15.00 deal extreme

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    i have ledil optis, 6 degree real spot and 2 9 degree medium spots 12.00 from cutter

    Housing:

    aluminum home depot 1 inch square tubing. 10.00

    Power Source:

    12 AA NIMH 14.4 / 2500 mah. i used a size N dc power connector originally thinking I could use my night rider charger,(but I can't) so i bought a charger for 25.00 / batteries 30.00

    Regulator:

    buckpuck 1000 mah

    Additional comments:
    I tested it in back yard. it is awesome, can't wait to ride with it.
    almost completed, I will come back and post a pic

  20. #20
    mtbr member
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    Light Source:

    2x CREE xre P4 dropin modules designed for surefire lights

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:
    dropin metalic reflectors - the beam is very tight

    Housing:

    RTA aluminium - annodised black sourced from local hardware chain, comes with matching plastic endcaps

    Power Source:
    one of the following

    -1 makita 9.6v 3000mah stick battery [9.6v]
    -2 6x 1.5v alkaline batterys in a 6xAA holder [9v]
    -3 8x 1.2v 2500mah AA rechargeables in a 8x AA holder [9.6v]

    Regulator:

    2x kaidomain kennan regulators - 1 per light


    Additional comments:

    i would not try the dropin method next time, i would use Anchelots Ledil lens method instead. it was still worth doing though. big tip, DONT wire 2x regulators in series, they go pop.

    Photos:






  21. #21
    Shortcutting Hikabiker
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    Oops

  22. #22
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    Tomato paste lights

    A couple of much delayed pictures of my home made lights. Housings are assembled with rivets, helmet mount is made from PVC drain pipe, bar mount is scavenged off an old cateye tail light.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #23
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    By Popular demand, here are some more construction details and pictures.

    Heat sink on the inside is made from a couple of layers of 2mm aluminium (yes that is how we spell it here) fixed together with a rivet, with a very thin layer of metal glue (I'm guessing similar to JB Weld) to hopefully improve heat transfer. The aluminium was cut out roughly with a jigsaw and ground down to fit the can with a dremel-like tool.

    Attached to the back of the heatsink (by the same rivet that holds it all together) is a small piece of angle aluminium, shaped to fit the inside of the can. The helmet or bar mount attaches to this through the can, also with rivets (3 or 4 depending on the iteration). The picture attached shows a light partway through construction which doesn't yet have the holes drilled in this piece to allow riveting.

    The switch is the original b-flex switch, a small hole is drilled through the can which this pokes through. One of the lights has a glow-in-the-dark tailcap from dealextreme fitted over the outside, a small piece of 1mm aluminium sheet is drilled to fit around the tailcap and simply fixed down with epoxy.

    The cans are steel and will probably rust - If it gets annoying I will probably spray paint them as suggested, but I find the "tomato paste" look amusing, especially when they outshine most of the expensive commercial lights out on the trail!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #24
    Not dead yet, just playin
    Reputation: ohpossum's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    910
    Light Source:

    3x Cree XR-E Q5 on pre-fab PCB for MR-11 replacement (from Cutter)



    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    Kahtod 35mm 3xCree "medium" optic. Honestly the optic isn't all that great. Its supposed to be an 8-degree spot, but instead is more of a 15-20 degree flood. I've read that Cutter is getting new optics made specifically for this kit that will work better.

    Housing:

    Reused a Marwi Nightpro Elite housing since it was one of the few MR11 housings made of metal. These same housings were also used for older versions of Performance "Viewpoint" lights.

    Power Source:

    6V NiMH battery packs using trail-tech connectors to a Taskled "Fatman" boost driver..

    Another plus for the Marwi/Viewpoint lights is they came from the factory with trail-tech connectors. One less thing to worry about

    Regulator:

    Fatman regulator is included in the Cutter kit.

    Additional comments:

    I toyed with the idea of making my own housing from square tubing, but the Cutter kit was such a great way to get a ton of lumens from a small space. That required a round housing which led me to the Marwi/Viewpoint lights. I purchased one Marwi kit from Bikeman.com and another Viewpoint kit off of ebay.

    The Cutter PCB is 34mm diameter which is the size of the largest part of a MR11 bulb. In order to get the PCB into the housing deep enough I had to remove some material from it. I used a dremel and a sanding bit to slowly grind off about 3mm from the whole PCB. That allowed it down far enough into the housing to let the optic fit correctly.

    The big issue with doing a retro-fit like this is heat. With no airflow over the PCB, some sort of extra heat sinking is required. For one light I used a 1" copper pipe endcap. I cut away some of the copper to allow it to go into the housing while contacting the inside wall of the housing. The PCB is pressed tightly against the end of the copper piece. So far this is working well. The housing gets plenty warm when there isn't much airflow. This tells me the heat is getting from the PCB to the housing as it should.

    Photos:

    PCB after I ground it down:


    Copper heatsink and switched resistor for dimming:


    Completed Light:



    op
    www.msmtb.org - Mississippi Mountain Biking

  25. #25
    mtbr member
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    Nov 2005
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    500

    Copperhead Triple Seoul

    Light Source: 3 x Triple SSC P4 (u-bin)
    Optics: 2 x 15 degree 1 x 5 degree L2 20mm
    Driver: 3023 wired buckpuck @ 1A
    Power: 14.8v, 4A Li-Ion battery pack

    Housing: Aluminum body with 3 3/4" copper end caps, 175g



    Build pics here.

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