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  1. #51
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    Oct 2008
    Switch from Mouser (Thank you ZenBicycle)
    Rectangular Tube .75 inch x 1.5 inch x .125 wall cut to 1.875 inch long, and 1/2 by 1/2 inch square aluminum bar cut to 1.25 inch from Speedymetals
    Light sanding of 1/2 x 1/2 bar will let it fit snugly in housing. Drill holes for wire pass through
    3 XPEWHT-L1-WG0-R2-0-01 R2 Flux WG Tint from Cutter
    3 Carlco Tight Narrow 10417 from Cutter
    Rear plate is .5 inch x 1.25 inch x .065 cut from home depot aluminum stock
    Tamiya connectors from Ebay
    Driver is Fatman Boost Driver set to 700 mA
    Emitters wired series so each seeing 700 mA
    Front cover polycarbonate from Home Depot
    Used a table saw to cut small grooves in top and sides for additional surface area.
    Velcro on bottom to attach to helmet or battery
    Spread thin layer of AAA inside front of light housing and slide slug in. Slug will need to be 10 mm deep for emitters, lens, and lens cover to be flush with front of light housing.
    AAA fatman in to aid in heat sinking of driver.
    Battery can be 3.7 v lithium ion or 7.4 v lithium ion from batteryspace .

    Light with another housing outlined earlier in this thread

    Original discussion thread of the 3 up XPE with beamshots.

  2. #52
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    Jan 2009

    Dual MC-E

    Light Source:
    2 M bin series wired MC-E's in parallel
    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:
    im using 2 LM1 optics. 1 RS and one D. seems to be a pretty good setup
    hammond case cut in half with fins AAA'd on
    Power Source:
    14.8v 4400mah Li Ion
    3023 Buckpuck with a 1K resistor for low
    Additional comments:
    the light is defintely bright enough for the trails. i was a little worried about heat but it never gets too hot to touch sitting still and on the trail it stays cool to the touch

    and some beam shots. first is control second is low and third is high

  3. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: grassie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Goodness gracious!! You guys have been busy!!
    I'll add my attempt at an insane quad shortly.
    Never, under any circumstances take a laxative and a sleeping pill on the same night!!

  4. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pitto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Light Source:

    2x CREE xre P4 dropin modules designed for surefire lights

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:
    dropin metalic reflectors - the beam is very tight


    RTA aluminium - annodised black sourced from local hardware chain, comes with matching plastic endcaps

    Power Source:
    one of the following

    -1 makita 9.6v 3000mah stick battery [9.6v]
    -2 6x 1.5v alkaline batterys in a 6xAA holder [9v]
    -3 8x 1.2v 2500mah AA rechargeables in a 8x AA holder [9.6v]


    2x kaidomain kennan regulators - 1 per light

    Additional comments:

    i would not try the dropin method next time, i would use Anchelots Ledil lens method instead. it was still worth doing though. big tip, DONT wire 2x regulators in series, they go pop.


  5. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: whoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009

    Alien Eye DIY Mtn bike light

    The Alien Eye DIY Mtn bike lamp. 5W Edison Opton MR16 LED. 12
    V system. Easy to make. Uses standard components.
    You only need a soldering iron, small screw driver, oven and a knife.
    You can have almost any color you want.

    Complete plans

    Helmet lamp option

  6. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    I started this project about 2 years ago, but figured I would add it here:

    Light Source:

    Currently 3 Cree XR-E R2 bin LEDs, mounted to star MCPCB. I just ordered some XP-G LEDs to upgrade!

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    I am using Carclo 20mm optics. Cuurently using 2 25 deg. and 1 10 deg.


    Housing is my own design that I had CNC machined. I made 10 sets, sold 7, made 2 lights for friends and one for myself.

    Power Source:

    Battery is a 14.8V 2600mah Li-ion pack from Batteryspace.
    Connectors are coaxial locking also from Batteryspace.


    Regulator is a Bflex from TaskLED. I also mounted a 3mm red LED for low battery warning. I am running the LEDs at 750mA.

    Additional comments:

    If I were to do it again, I would leave more room in the housing for the regulator and wiring and stuff. I am getting ready to update the LEDs to XP-Gs, which should make it brighter and more efficient. I am also going to change the mount from the bar clamp to one thet mounts to the front of my Hope stem.
    Link to the original thread: DIY Cree triple, done right!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0549.jpg  

    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0550.jpg  

    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0551.jpg  

  7. #57
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    Oct 2008
    Please feel free to copy these lights. Improve on these lights........ Whatever.....

    For the 10x or triple MCE.

    Body tube

    Inside width is around 57 mm so the optics need to be reduce down to 19mm to fit 3 side by side. Sand lightly preferably by hand. The same is true of the 20mm stars. They need to be reduced to 19 mm wide.

    MC-E stars can be purchased from Cutter, Ledsupply, or The 16mm stars came from shining beam.

    Optics are Ledil LM1 RS and D.

    The "slug" is actually 1 inch outside diameter rectangular tube


    (this is the body of the dual SST light) ripped down the middle and lightly sanded to fit inside the larger rectangular stock.

    When ripping the aluminum only cut through 1 side at a time. Set saw blade to its lowest height to cut the bottom of the tube. Flip the tube over and cut the other side. Cutting both top and bottom at the same time causes lots of vibrations often causes the piece to kick back from the saw blade.

    Ordered 1 inch flat stock for back plate.

    Order 2 ft at least to make the pieces manageable. Less than 2 foot is hard to keep hold of when the blade grabs it.

    With everything finned or ripped now use your slide to make the cross cuts. Light body is about 2 to 2.25 inch long. Measure your internal width and cut the slugs accordingly.

    Usually drill some random holes in the slug so I can use it for either the MCE or the XPG.

    Back plate done same way. Cut to width and sand to fit as needed.

    Prefer my switches on top of the light since it is easier to press when riding and wearing gloves. Some light have 2 switches to give me multiple power settings.

    These two lights both have two buckpucks wired parallel.

    The MC-E uses two 1000 mA with one switch. Stars are parallel wired with 3 serial. So you can think of it as 4 strings of three with 500 mA per string.

    XP-G uses one 1000 mA buckpuck and one 700 mA buckpuck in parallel. Two switches, one between each battery positive lead and buckpuck. This gives independent control of each buckpuck so the two strings of 5 XP-G's can see 350 mA, 500 mA, or 850 mA per string.

    One could use the HipCC with the Triple MC-E. I went with the buckpucks since I wanted the lower 500 mA current.

    I have been running a 10x XP-E with 2 strings at 500 mA for the last month and a half or so. No problems with heat at all. Tight fit with all the parts and all lights are built exclusively with Arctic Silver Adhesive to maximize heat flow/cooling potential.

    SST - 50 single

    Body made from

    slot and cut to length as desired. This light is usually cut to about 2 inches long.

    heat sink/front collar lens holder

    heat sink/front collar lens holder

    Just cut sections as needed. The front collar is only about a .25 inch long and just gives the optic a framework to be mounted to.

    For the heat sink cut rip a small section to end up with a channel section, |_| of the tube and slide it into the tube body.

    A back plate can be made using the same one inch stock using the back section you cut off for the slug.


    runs at a measured 2400 mA, not the 2800 mA as advertised . Two sides of the driver will need to be lightly sanded to fit inside light body.

    Optic is a Ledil CMC RS from Cutter.


    Dual SST- 50 or Dual MC-E


    (This section can also be used/ is the body for the 3x XPG Carlco Narrow)
    Slug option 2

    slug tube can be cut used to fabricate back plate.
    Interior height is 19 mm so the optics/holder do require light sanding to get to fit. Same hold true if using 20mm stars.

    Dual/Triple Tina RS, Dual/Quad XP-G Carlco narrow.

    This one is a PITA, but we were waiting a while for the XP-Gs so boredom was the motivator to go ahead and fabricate these light bodies.


    Yes, one tube makes both light bodies.

    Which side of the cross brace you rip determines your rectangular tube.

    This one is ripped full thickness of both sides at the same time. Expect things to vibrate and screech horribly. Hang on best you can and wear a lot of protection incase of kick back. Seems to work better to only cut about a foot at a time and then cross cut the new section off.

    Next use some 1/4 inch by 3/4 flat strip.

    Rip it to the inside height of the light body to form you slug. Then cross cut to fit width.

    Getting the rip right is extremely challenging. There is always a little waver in the saw blade. Dumb luck and repeated attempts will eventually get you there though. Set your fence and rip about an inch. See how tight or loose it is in relation to the light body. If it is too small then cut the end off and start over with minor adjustment to fence.

    If too big then narrow fence gap and slowly remove some more material.

    Good times............. Took about 10 tries to get something workable....... Hopefully you have better luck or better equipment.

    On the 2x, 3x, 4x the back plates are thin plastic from milk jugs covered with 5 minute JB weld. The 5 minute can be mixed to be black and looks really good when it sets up. It really takes about 12 hours before it sets up hard enough to not get finger prints in. So let them set up over night.

    But your really only have about 4 minutes while it is workable.

    Found that mixing with toothpicks and cleaning edges of overflow with toothpicks works best.

    The 5 minute JB weld will self level. The warmer it is the thinner it is. If it is too thick in the first minute or so grab a hair dryer or hot air gun and heat up the mix. After about 4 minutes no amount of heat is going to thin it out.

    The 3x and 4x lights all use the Fatman driver from Taskled
    The 2x uses the cheapo driver from Dealextreme. Have 6 of them. Two ran at 860 mA, the other four ran between 980 mA to 1030 mA.
    Specific instructions for the 3x can be found in the DIY thread.

    Bar mounts

    Handle bar mounts
    El34 Marwi bar/helmet mounts with the DX P7 adaptor bolted to bottom of light body
    Have El34's Marwi and the Electron from Chain reaction. Prefer the Marwi. YMMV
    Fatman and HippCC Driver
    Buckpuck Drivers

    Battery holders
    Used holders fabricated by both

    Switch from Mouser


    XP-G Cutter
    MC-E Cutter , Shining Beam , LEDsupply
    SST-50 Star

    Tamiya Connectors available widely online.

    Pictures of the build process.

    The silver carnage is just one reason for goggles and gloves. Aluminum kick back sucks bad.
    Here is some basic "How to" information

    Get some good gloves and goggles when playing with aluminum on the table saw.

    Covered aluminum tube and cutting deck of table saw in spray lubricant.

    Run section of aluminum rectangular tube along tablesaw fence for entire length to cut slot. Flipped aluminum tube and cut same slot twice on top and bottom of tube.

    Move fence about 1.5 to 2 mm by eye and cut the 8 new slots, 2 top, bottom, and both sides.
    This gives the tubing the "shoulders. 8 cuts on the first pass can actually interfere with each other so 4 initial cuts and then 8 cuts then on out until sides are fully slotted.

    Just flip the work piece and keep in soaked in spray lubricant. Hot aluminum smears and deforms. Cool aluminum cuts nicely and uniformly.
    Constantly clean aluminum chips/swarf from cutting deck and your work piece. Small brush or high pressure blow gun works well for this.

  8. #58
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    May 2009

    The Nameless DIY

    Light Source:

    Cree XR E Q5. 3 of them at 3.7vf each

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    Carclo two medium, one plain tight


    Bike Light Parts list and cost.pdf The housing had it's difficulties but the main problem with it is too much reliance on JB weld which for the most part is holding so far.

    Power Source:

    4 x 18650 3000mA.


    Wired Buck Puck 1000mA

    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0326.jpg

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    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0323.jpg

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  9. #59
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007

    Little Helmet Light

    I first built this last winter but thought it might be a good one to to post here, it's pretty beginner friendly.

    Light Source:
    2 x XR-E Q5


    2 x DX 1920 spot


    2" x 1.5" x 0.75" aluminum, made from 0.75" square tubing.

    Power Source:
    4 x AA NiMH in series for 4.8v nominal.

    2 x DX 3256

    Additional comments:
    LEDs, optics, drivers from DX. Switches, battery holder from Radio Shack; plastic end caps from local hardware store (but all can be found on-line as well).

    Runtime ~1.25+ hours on high / 2.5+ hours low (can be doubled with an 8 battery 4s2p pack).

    Full build is posted here. More recent builds use a single DPDT switch rather than two SPST switches, to simplify assembly....sort of ;-)

    Last edited by Jim Z in VT; 12-06-2009 at 07:43 PM.

  10. #60
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    Sep 2008

    All this... in there

    Vistalite mod;

    Light source: 3 Cree q5 from KD attached with solder paste to mr11 pcb from cutter electronics and modded to run 3parallel.

    Optics: Ledil cute3 narrow lens for headlamp and med for bar mount, both from cutter.

    Power source: I use 2 of the original nightstick nimh batteries with a y-connector for each light. I have 8 of them and they still have plenty of run time.

    Regulation: I run the leds with KD's "p-7 5.5-15v 3-mode drivers. They work perfectly with the 6v nightsticks, they're smaller and cheaper than the taskled drivers so they fit in the housing and my wallet(No offense George as I will be upgrading to either a fatman or a maxflex or both now that the concept is proven).

    Housings: Vistalite VL Whatever formerly halogen housings, mounts, switches, cables, battery mounts and batteries. I already had all of this stuff and didn't want to just dump it and couldn't afford $300 for decent new gear.

    Making it work: A small but important part of the equation was the switches that vistaite uses in their lights. They are an on/off latching switch but in the on position the work as a momentary switch if you press part way. This makes it very easy to operate as either the case switch or the bar mounted one can do the on/off/dimming chores. Also, I didn't need any additional wires, switches, or resistors to calculate values for. The more important part was how to divest the case of the heat generated as it is quite small and 1/3 of it is made of plastic. I solved this by creating separate sinks for the driver and led pcb inside the housing and using copper nails to pipe the heat to more copper on the outside. The various pieces were fitted, then epoxied, then drilled for the nails, then soldered and the excess nails were cutoff and smoothed over. The sink for the driver sits under the housing and is basically a cylinder made up of 1/2"copper pipe sections fitted inside on another to make a more solid cross section about 1/4" tall. Inside the housing is just enough of a copper tab to attach the driver to with some silicon heat sink paste/adhesive. The sink for the leds is the earmuff arrangement on the outside and connects to a copper disc with ears lying under the pcb. The two system are connected only by the aluminum of the housing and don't otherwise touch.

    Not suprisingly: It is not possible to bench test it for run time on high or for that matter even on low as there is just not enough mass to dissapate the heat generated. However, in use I have not had either the bar mounted unit or the helmet mounted one experience the heat-related powerdown which occurs within a few minutes when not moving.

    Run time: As I said above, I couldn't do a "bench" test but my longest night ride was 4 hours and by the end the bar light was self dimming from high. It is the one most used as the floodier beam is pointed at the trail close to the bike and is operated with a switch by my right thumb(mostly on low when climbing).

    Upgrades: The drivers in use supply ~ 900mA to each led but only in my dreams. They probably get closer to 850mA so I would like to put in a true 1A driver like a maxflex or a fatman. The fatman should work with everything else just fine but to use the maxflex I have to wait until the new gt4xp lenses come out from ledil. Then I will have another 8-9mm behind the led for the larger pcb. What the hell, I'll more than likely get a quad xpg-r5.

    I really like these lights. I ride a Titus motolite ml2, it's in the ml build forum.

    The first pic is with an single lens and an mce but I didn't like the beam pattern and went for the 3 q5 instead.
    Second shows the light before I added the sink between the light and the mount(visible in the last pic).
    Third is a beamshot with a stock housing and 15w halogen bulb.
    Fourth is a beamshot with the 3 q5 on high. Note: 15w halogen = 6V at 2.5 A, 3 q5 = 6V at ~ 2.7A.
    Last shows the leds, the parallel wiring, the heatsink ears, and the sink under the driver. driver is behind the leds.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0042.jpg  

    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0043.jpg  

    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0105.jpg  

    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0107.jpg  

    Home Made Bike Light Database-img_0116.jpg  

    Last edited by; 11-29-2009 at 03:43 AM.

  11. #61
    mtbr member
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    Jun 2008

    V2 of the Hammond Quad Cree

    Light Source:

    Good and cheap - 4 x Cree Q5's from DealExtreme

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    2 each - Polymer Optics 6deg (120/147) and 25deg (124/147) purchased from cutter.


    Hammond case purchased at Mouser:

    The connectors are Hirose HR30 (male panel mount and female cable type) purchased at Mouser.

    The heatsink was milled, however a piece of angle aluminum cut to size works just as well.

    The front and back panels were waterjet cut by using the designs in the thread linked in my signature.

    Power Source:

    My battery solution was to use a Makita 18V battery with one of these:


    3023-D-E-1000 - 1A Wired Buckpucks with external potentiometer, they can be purchased at or cutter.

    It is controlled by a PICAXE microcontroller to allow dimming, modes, temp sensing and battery voltage monitoring, plus other features not yet implemented.

    Additional comments:

    See the link in my signature for more info.


  12. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trdi's Avatar
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    Sep 2009
    Do you have some pictures or movie how dose this light shine in dark?

  13. #63
    mtbr member
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    Aug 2010
    To "odtexas"

    Do you mind if I ask you what blade you are using in your table saw? Also how are you anodizing the aluminum?


  14. #64
    mtbr member
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    Jan 2010

    Marwi Bullet Conversions for the street


    Light Source:

    3 XP-G R5 color WH on 10 mm round MCPCB from Cutter for each light. About 470 lumens at 0.5 A and 900 @ 1 Amp each light.

    Usually driven at 0.5 A, 1.0 A on wet roads.

    Low beam has three Carclo 10417s one per LED from Cutter. Since picture above, a fresnel lens cut out of center of cheap plastic lens landscape halogen from HomeDepot. Right bulb donated lens in bezel of picture below:

    High has three 10140 12.7 mm/16 mm OD aspheric lenses from surplusshed stacking three different sized die images one ahead (above) the other. Top (tightest) beam used a dedomed XP-G:

    Marwi/Viewpoint Halogen from EL34 and copper pipe cap firewall system for both lights from local plumbing supply and Lowes. Anodixed body was polished to the aluminum and Arctic Aluminum was used in force fit between copper heat sink/spreaders and the bare aluminum to maximixe thermal path.

    Low Beam Pill System

    High Beam Heat Spreader/Firewall:

    Low beam's Pill system with liner is heavy, too a lot of hand sanding with a Dremel, and is overkill. Thought low beam might need to run at 1 A all the time. The inside of the body is ribbed so need to be polished to get the best thermal contact with the copper heat sink.

    Power Source:
    Batteries: 12 V nominal 4.5 Ahr Cygolite NiMH HID system battery, DIY 11.1/12.6 V 4.8 A hr Li-ion pack being built using 6 2.4 Ahr 18650s. Connectors: Trailtech from

    One BFlex Driver from TaskLed for each light. Status LED with light tube to tip of housing.
    Momentary switch mounted in place of stock On/Off switch.

    Additional comments:

    High beam on helmet is very narrow but an excellent thrower visible by motorists over 1/4 mile in bright daylight. Closer it has to be aimed at the motorist. Deters drivers entering road into path of bike quite effectively. You don't want this aimed at your side window even in daylight (used in flash mode at 1 A). Low beam needs a bill and maybe to be mounted forward freeing up handle bar room and reflecting off the fender less.

    Golf course beam shot:

    Night movie of lights: (pedestrian view):
    <embed src="" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" wmode="transparent" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/>

    Hand held movie camera and 1.2 mile circuit using lights (some mods since):
    <embed src="" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" wmode="transparent" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/>


    Light Source:

    MR16 1 watt luxeon red LED, one per light body:

    Built in 12 V AC/DC driver and LED use 1.4 watts, LED driven at about 0.4 A. Output 100 lumens each.

    The MR16 spots optics were retained and mounted in the MR11 body. The front cover lenses were salvaged from the original 6 V halogen bulbs. A ring of copper wire spaces the reflector forward and both are held in place with non-acetic acid silicone caulk.

    A Siamesed twin pair of Marwis was used with single trailtech lug and two leads. The front bezels and the lenses were removed from the MR16 bulbs. The bell shape of the bulb's body was cut off with a hacksaw taking care not to cut down as far as the LED or wiring. The flat aluminum backplate was hand fitted using a Dremel to mate inside the MR11 Marwi housing. The inside of the light was not polished to the aluminum because there isn't that much heat to dissipate. Arctic alumina was used to aid thermal path and the bulb was siliconed in place with non-acetic acid silicone caulk.

    The original MR11 bulb sockets were removed and discarded from the Marwi bodies and the leads soldered directly to the bulbs. Heat shrink tube isn't possible so non-acetic acid silicon caulk was used to prevent shorts.

    Power Source:
    Plugs into same battery as headlights. Second Li-ion will be taillight and backup battery.

    The MR16 bulbs driver is used. There are no modes.

    Mounting is aimed about 5 degrees lower so as not to be directly in driver's eyes.

  15. #65
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    Aug 2010
    Quote Originally Posted by NeoMoses

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:

    The 2 yellow LEDs have a 'lighthouse' style optic placed over them. I got these from ebay a long time ago, so sorry for no direct source. Basically, these help focus the light into a narrow band that is roughly 180 degrees wide x 15 degrees tall. The center red LED is left bare with no optics to give a VERY broad light dissipation. Makes you visible from a full 180x180. has them for sale in case anyone was interested...

  16. #66
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    Oct 2008
    Original 35mm ID thread
    "In Ano"
    Body Tube
    ~35mm inside diameter.

    Slug for ~35mm inside diameter light.

    Slug needs to be sanded lightly to fit inside tube.

    34.8mm glass for ~35mm inside diameter light (Thanks Hoffman Amps)
    On off Switch
    Using Tamiya mini connectors with heat shrink covers.

    Tube is ripped along fence to flatten one side.

    Move fence and rip other side.

    At this point it is best to section the tube (cross cut) into whatever length you want to final light to be.
    Then carefully slot finning on each individual body. Was trying to fin whole tube, but found that even minor rotation screws up symmetry over a two foot long cut.
    Notice asymmetric finning on light bodies.

    Cheap Kaidomain driver.
    Operates around 2.4 Amps.

    Removing the R400 sense resistor from the R1 slot reduces current to 1.88 Amps with the MC-E M-bin parallel wired star.

    6xAA battery holder with Tamiya mini connectors.

    Original 22mm ID thread


    Built Boom

    Built Ledil LM1 diffuse

    Also built one with a Regina and XPG running at 1.9 Amps……….

    Small light with ~22mm inside diameter.

    Slug for light with ~22mm inside diameter.

    22mm flat glass

    Rectangular Chassis Thread

    Wide Black Body Beam Shot at ~880mA.

    Wide light body


    Next use some 1/4 inch by 3/4 flat strip.

    Rip it to the inside height of the light body to form you slug. Then cross cut to fit width.

    Used bench grinder to shape reginas to fit.

    On off Switch

    Using Tamiya mini connectors with heat shrink covers.

    Driver for both lights

    Smaller orange light is made from
    Aluminum Rectangular Tubing .75" X 1.5" X .062
    Sorry no link on this extrusion. Found it on ebay about a year ago and haven't needed any since.

    Small Orange light with shortened Regina reflectors beam shot ~880 mA.

    Using modified reginas.

    Cut to fit internal of extrusion.
    Slug done same way as above. Trial and error to get tight fit from aluminum bar stock.

    Fins can be "dado" cut.

    This is done with multiple soft steel saw blades spaced with grinding wheel/cut off discs.

    The disks come in various widths so you can make whatever spacing you want/need.

    Just gives a little better uniformity and is faster since 3 beds are cut at a time.

  17. #67
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    Oct 2008
    Aluminum Square Tubing, 1" SQ {A} x 3/4" ID {B} x .125" Wall Sq. Tube , from Speedymetals.

    Aluminum Rectangular Tubing, 1" {A} x 2" {B} x .125" Wall {C} Rect. Tube Speedymetals.

    Aluminum Square Tubing, 3/4" SQ {A} x 5/8" ID {B} x .063" Wall {C} Sq. Tube 6063-T52 Aluminum, from Speedymetals.

    Rip the ¾ inch tube length wise to give 2 halves or U channel. Then cut U channel to appropriate length to fit into light body.

    In the 1 inch square tube the Regina outside edge can be sanded to remove the small lip. It will then fit into the 1 inch square tube without distorting the reflector.

    The driver in both lights are the 3-mode regulated Circuit Boards from Shiningbeam.
    In the Dual XML light I am using the Poormans 7135 Driver Setup, brought to our attention by rlouder via CPF. Thanks rlouder……….
    So cut the outside corners of the tube at 45 degrees. Slots were also cut using table saw.
    Makes for a tidy 3 mode light.

    I recut the 1 inch square to have only four slots, three fins.
    The originals were cut with five slots, four fins, each side and the fins came out a little too narrow on some of the housings.

    Update to a more step by step process.

    The cut bodies will have some edge overhang so take a knife and trim/bevel the edges.

    The ¾ inch slug will need to have edges rounded and some sanding to fit inside the light body. Sand and round edges enough to be able to push the slug in with a mild/moderate amount of force.

    Tin the leds. Much harder to tin when star has been thermal epoxied to the slug.

    Prepare driver. This is the 2800 mA, 3 mode from Shining beam. Remove spring and solder positive wire on.

    Attach negative to outer gold colored ring either top or bottom. Top was done here to make attachment to switch easier.

    Thermal epoxy 7135 chips to slug. Channel locks used to hold together until epoxy sets. Velcro wrapped around grips to hold driver in place.

    Used dremel grinding stone to remove lip from the Regina optic.

    Step drill Regina out to ¼ inch.

    Use a slug to trace the front and back plate of the light on 1.2 mm polycarb and cut out with scissors.

    Used 5 minute epoxy to fix Regina to led star after soldering driver wires to the star pads.

    Regina, slug, and driver ready to be pushed into light body.

    Light body gets thermal epoxy.

    Slide slug into body.

    Take front and back polycarb 1.2 mm plates. Stack both and continue pressing slug into light body.

    Wires can be threaded out through switch hole and end of light can be tapped with soft faced hammer.

    Remove the polycarb plates.

    Leaves about 1 mm to work 5 minute clear epoxy around to seal the polycarb in place over the reflector.

    Getting ready to mix.

    Mixed with one toothpick. Discard that one. Use tip of clean toothpick to work epoxy around polycarb/light body junction.

    Driver and switch connected.

    Negative wire connected and Marine shrink tube placed over wires. * If you plan to use a bolted/screwed on mount this area behind the driver is the area the hole will need to be drilled for installation. I use Velcro or Dual Lock on my lights. *

    Polycarb plate with center drilled ready for JB Weld Kwik.

    Mix a little more black than grey to get darker epoxy color.

    Epoxy worked into back of light body and feathered against internal body edges. Place light on flat surface and heat body and epoxy with heat gun so it self levels.

    Used a little less epoxy than needed to completely fill back cavity to flush. Prefer a little droop so dried epoxy has slight recessed look to it.

    Mini Tamiya connectors

    Another section of Marine heat shrink tubing place on wiring and shrank with heat gun.

    Use Velcro or 3M Dual lock on my light. *A mount could be drilled and screwed/bolted in before polycarb rear plate was installed.*

    Lights done with both Rustoleum Fine Texture paint and Gunkote.

    Light bodies cleaned with Dawn dish soap to remove oils. Then dipped in rubbing alcohol and wiped dry. Next light bodies are heated to 150 degrees F and sprayed with the paint/coating product.
    Let dry for 30 minutes and then bake in oven for 1 hour at 350 degrees F.
    Rustoluem Left, Gun-Kote Right.

    Brass brush used to test scratch resistance of both products after baking and cooling.

    The Rustoleum resisted better against scratching.

    I have learned alot of these tricks from fellow builders here. Came up with a few on my own.
    There are many more tricks and tips on mtbr and cpf.
    Here is one of the best threads I have ever come across. This guy, wquiles, is meticulous and shares years worth of experience.
    It is where I decided the 5 minute clear epoxy could handle any abuse I threw at it.
    Long read but worth it.
    He uses a thermal tape and so nonconductive tape on the back of an aluminum reflector.
    Not my style, but someone here could probably benefit from those tips.
    Last edited by odtexas; 02-21-2011 at 07:22 AM.

  18. #68
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Nice work.
    Impressive results when I consider the equipment you used.
    When you think that life is though, keep a positive attitude : remember that it is short ;-)

  19. #69
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010


    This is a fine collection, I hope my light is worth adding here.

    Light Source:
    3 x XM-L T6 2B bin on 14 mm star

    1 x Boom-SS for MCE
    1x Carclo Elliptical Orthogonal for MCE
    1x Carclo Narrow 24° Frosted for MCE

    Carcglo Frosted medium cut in half and glued in front

    Aluminum Box Enclousure Case -4.33"*2.01"*1.50"(L*W*H) from ebay

    Power Source:
    4 x 18650 Trustfire in series

    H6flex from tasled

    Additional comments:
    Batteries inside, lights up around the front wheel

    Photos of the building process here
    Home Made Bike Light Database-caplight-4.jpg
    Home Made Bike Light Database-caplight-7.jpg
    Home Made Bike Light Database-cap-hood.jpg

    more beamshots here
    Home Made Bike Light Database-cap-800ma-beamshot.jpg

  20. #70
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Bumpity bump

  21. #71
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014

    Cantor, DIY: oncomers-friendly, 1S Li-Ion, rich-control firmware, beam 3D simulations

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    Light Source:
    2 LEDs Cree XML (on stars)

    Optics / Reflectors / Lens:
    2 lens Carclo. Far 10755 (30mm, circular beam) + holder 10962. Diffused with an elliptic diffuser. Near 10198 (20mm, oval) + universal holder 10654.

    Lens are shifted relative to LEDs - to make the beam vertically asymmetric. At the top there will be sharper cutoff, at the bottom - smoother fade-off. Lens of the Far light is lifted away from the LED's star plane - to make the beam more concentrated - at the price of some power losses.
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    A modified common "Magic-shine"-type headlight (Xeccon-S14T) and also the М25-housing from easy2led-com

    • A standard plastic mount (Magic-Shine-type) with a rubber ring is used to mount the headlights. It gives mobility and freedom: it's easy to demount it and put in a backpack, use on several bikes, or use as 2 independent (though awkward) flashlights. Housing and the mount are wired together, with a rubber pad in between.
    • Lens mount. It turns out that one can first conveniently and accurately position the lens relative to the LED, getting the beam you want, and then conveniently fasten everything inside the housing.
    • PCB mount. Good heat transfer from linear regulators to outside. Controller is pressed against the housing pill for LED temperature measurements.

    Power Source:
    1S Li-Ion (2.7-4.2V)

    Driver is linear, using AMC7135 and Atmel ATtiny45. The printed circuit board (PCB) can house up to 8 AMC7135 (~2.8А), they are all located on one side for efficient cooling. Micro-controller is on the other side - to measure temperature of the power LED. Board diameter is 24mm. The PCB design (gEDA) is opened.
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    Additional comments:
    The main page is on
    Cantor bike light documentation

    What's also there:

    Simulations from ceiling beamshots, processed in octave. Angular distribution, road projection, 3D-view, all in log scale. Several types of beams. Comparison with Olaf Schultz database.
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    Convenient, bike-light-specific (not a tactical-light) control in the firmware

    • Normally brightness of both headlights (Far+Near) changes simultaneously, but it can also be changed individually.
    • Monitors voltage level: there are many levels at which headlight will blink to indicate voltage drop.
    • Monitors temperature.
    • Levels can be set by the user without re-programming.
    • Nice "police" strobe: first Far headlight strobes, then Near, and so on.
    • Smooth light up/down.
    • Anti-hijack mode: headlight requires a password.

    Brake light.
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    Once again, the full description is in
    Last edited by abvgdee; 09-28-2014 at 03:27 AM.

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