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  1. #1
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    help triple/triple x-pe

    hello everyone

    Can i just ask if i wanted to make a triple/triple xp-e light would i be able to run it from 3 seperate drivers? If yes would the drivers (If they were say 1000ma for example) deliver the 1000ma to each triple, how would this setup be wired, what size battery would be required sorry for the dumb questions!

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    Hi em182,

    It is possible with one driver per XP-E. However, the XP-E is specified to take max 700mA so if you choose a (constant-current) driver that doesn't have a configurable output current you should pick one that delivers max 700mA to be safe with this setup, not 1A.

    Assuming the driver is a buck-driver (input voltage > output voltage) the voltage drop across the driver (typ. 1V+) specifies which battery that will work. The output voltage from the battery should be at least V_LED + V_driver. V_LED is about 3.4V for the XP-E when driven at 700mA.

    When running the drivers and LEDs in parallel (as you wanted) you could connect 2 Li-Ion cells in series to get 7.4V input voltage to the driver or 6 NiMh cells to get 7.2V. This should leave enough headroom for the voltage drop across the driver.

    To wire it up you should connect each driver to its LED (driver-V_out+ -> LED+, LED- -> driver_V_out-) Check the polarity of the LED before soldering!
    Then connect the "battery pack" to the drivers 3x(batt+ -> driver-V_in+, batt- -> driver-V_in-).

    /Anders

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by em182
    if i wanted to make a triple/triple xp-e light would i be able to run it from 3 seperate drivers?
    If the leds were wired in series, two to a string, then each string could be wired to it's own driver, and the drivers wired parallel to the battery. So you could turn on 2, 4, or all 6 leds......that's what you mean, right? Put your three switches between the drivers and the battery.

    You'd want 700mA drivers or less, or damn good heatsinks if you're going with 1000mA. In series, all the leds see the full 700ma from the driver.

    Battery: assuming you use 700mA BuckPuck drivers, they need 2v more than the leds. XP-Es I think are 3.3v, so you need at least 8.6v. (the BuckPucks can handle up to 20v IIRC) Using my 14.4v 5000mAh battery that light would run for ~4.5 hours. You can play around with battery sizes with this led runtime calculator

    I don't know if those nice little 20mm triples that Cutter sells allow you to wire the single leds individually. If not, you'd have to work with unmounted XP-E emitters, and a very large magnifying glass.

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  4. #4
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    What about 3s 3p using a maxflex and 7.2v bat?

    Vf should be about 9.x

    Vmax battery would be 8.4v, so that would be safe.

    Anyone remember what the current output presets are for the maxflex, is it 1.2 or 1.4A?

    Another option would be a Hipflex (hipCC) which will is a buck so would run nicely off a 14.4V with 3s3p and has a max output of 2.8 A, obviously you would need to set the UI for a lower level. Downside is the large physical size of the driver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ocean breathes salty
    Anyone remember what the current output presets are for the maxflex, is it 1.2 or 1.4A?
    It's 1.2A. So each string would be getting 400mA.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ortelius
    It's 1.2A. So each string would be getting 400mA.
    Yeah, not so bright.. crazy efficient and not too much heat though.

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    cheers all

    i asked the question because i have a 14.8v battery which is great and i would like to use it. i had considered the mcpcb's wired in 3s3p giving a vf of 9.6ish and a b/flex from nightlightning set at1200ma so 400ma for each triple but didn't know how bright that would be.so i just wondered if by using 3 cheap 700ma boards i could use my battery as you can tell i am not electronically minded!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by em182
    cheers all

    i asked the question because i have a 14.8v battery which is great and i would like to use it. i had considered the mcpcb's wired in 3s3p giving a vf of 9.6ish and a b/flex from nightlightning set at1200ma so 400ma for each triple but didn't know how bright that would be.so i just wondered if by using 3 cheap 700ma boards i could use my battery as you can tell i am not electronically minded!
    3 cheap boards would work just fine. with 9xpe's, it is going to be crazy bright. Have a look at the "son of pipelight" thread, he is using 9 xpe's but exactly how it is driven escapes me now.

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    thanks ocean just have to make room for the drivers now.

    does anyone know how i would work out the draw on a set- up like this? and what sort of run time i would get from my 14.8 many thanks

  10. #10
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    I realize now that my reply above is not much help....somehow I was thinking double triple, when the question was clearly about a triple triple. Sorry about that

    You still could do it with 3 buckpucks and your 14.8v battery though, running the drivers in parallel off the battery, each feeding a 3s string of leds. But three buckpucks are going to cost you $45. For that money you can probably buy a single driver from taskled.com that will do a better job, and take up less space.

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by em182
    thanks ocean just have to make room for the drivers now.

    does anyone know how i would work out the draw on a set- up like this? and what sort of run time i would get from my 14.8 many thanks
    I get this...

    9.6V Vf at 700ma = 6.72W

    A = 6.72 /14.8
    = 0.45A per string

    so 3 x 0.45 = 1.3A

    What is the battery specs?

  12. #12
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    3s-3p with a Hipflex of Hipcc driver from taskled would result in a maximal drive current of 933 mA. But it will consume almost 30 Watt, getting rid of so much heat is really a problem. Another thing is your battery, it will need to be huge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by super-fast
    3s-3p with a Hipflex of Hipcc driver from taskled would result in a maximal drive current of 933 mA. But it will consume almost 30 Watt, getting rid of so much heat is really a problem. Another thing is your battery, it will need to be huge.
    I remember reading the prototype had 1000ma, 1400ma 2000ma and 2800ma current tables available via the UI. Not sure what the production version has

    So if he was to pick the 2000ma setting, it would be giving 666mA which would be perfect.

  14. #14
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    I cant say yet but there is something coming along that will address the triple triple issue
    and cheapish

  15. #15
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    .............. i want one ........

    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I cant say yet but there is something coming along that will address the triple triple issue
    and cheapish
    omg i`ve only just ordered the leds for my troutelite n now yr cookin up something else lol
    ....... hey i thought we were going `smaller` anyway

    .... ok, just make sure we can get a hipFlex in it
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  16. #16
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    ocean my battery is 14.8v 2.6 mah

    troutie stop being a tease you little minx!!!!!!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by em182
    ocean my battery is 14.8v 2.6 mah

    troutie stop being a tease you little minx!!!!!!

    I cant say but there may be a driver coming along that will suit your build and a few other builds out there

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I cant say but there may be a driver coming along that will suit your build and a few other builds out there
    Is it a Troutflex?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by em182
    ocean my battery is 14.8v 2.6 mah

    troutie stop being a tease you little minx!!!!!!
    Then 2.6/1.3 = 2 hours at 700ma. Longer if you use a dimmable driver.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I cant say yet but there is something coming along that will address the triple triple issue
    and cheapish
    A hipflex would do the job already perfectly with a (14,4V battery pack)?

    Stepping up to a higher voltage then for example the Maxflex and the Shark driver isn't a good idea for safety. So I wonder what you have in mind.

    Multiple cheap Chinese drivers would be the cheapest solution probably.

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    Hi em182 3S3P is what I use in the Son of Pipe light and I use a Maxflex running at 1200 mA, 400 mA per string and I can tell you that it is crazy bright and the current draw from the light is 1.64 Amps. I use a simple 4 cell 7.4V 5200 mA Li-Ion battery pack and with the SOPL I get nearly 3 hours run time more than adequate.
    The Maxflex is very efficient at this level as the LED's combined Vf is only 9.28 volts at 400mA so remains very cool and the light is warm to the touch stationary and cool whilst moving.
    The fact the Maxflex has dimming capabilities makes it the ideal triple triple driver as your housing needs to be designed to get rid of the heat quickly as I did a test with just 2 of the strings running 600 mA through each string and wow did those XPE's get hot! (Lord Troutie attested to this on his early build using the XPE's)
    If you are going to build a large housing then the Hipflex is another way to go at least you can drive 700 mA per string and run a 14.8 V battery pack and it is a buck driver so more efficient.

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    thanks formantjim
    i'm going to take your and others advice here and go 3s3p and maybe change a few things when the driver troutie eluded to arrives

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by super-fast
    A hipflex would do the job already perfectly with a (14,4V battery pack)?

    Stepping up to a higher voltage then for example the Maxflex and the Shark driver isn't a good idea for safety. So I wonder what you have in mind.

    Multiple cheap Chinese drivers would be the cheapest solution probably.

    Superfast is close here but not cheapo chinese drivers some quality ones with easy 2 level output

    they can be configured via track break to be 350mA, 700ma or dual, 80mA/700mA


    They will be available from cutters and I think fairly cheap


  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Superfast is close here but not cheapo chinese drivers some quality ones with easy 2 level output

    they can be configured via track break to be 350mA, 700ma or dual, 80mA/700mA


    They will be available from cutters and I think fairly cheap

    so will one of these drive a triple/triple at 700 mA per string? is it a boost or buck? when do you think they might be available troutie?

  25. #25
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    No you'll need 3 of them It will take quite some space, but a housing with 9 leds can't be ultra small so it isn't really a problem.
    3 single step down channels controlled by a single microcontroller (with UI) on a board would be nicer.

    A step-up driver that could deliver more current then the 1200 mA from the Maxflex would also be a serious option. George from Taskled will not like the idea. But in my opinion it would be fine. The difference in efficiency between a buck and a boost driver is only one schottky diode. The transistors used in the boost drivers are a bit too small, when a transistor that can handle more current would have been used there wouldn't have been any problems.

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