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Ha Ha Just look at this one

2K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  muzzanic 
#1 ·
#4 ·
that's hilarious, on so many levels. The fact that he has a super light weight bike with an enormous battery strapped to it, that he thinks 4000lm is "enough" for most rides, the handwarming benefit from the fan, just the shear chutzpah of it.

Funnily enough, I thought the same about Troutie's monster light he made a while back and all the blinded sheep in the pics :)
 
#8 ·
unterhausen said:
not using it all the time, just flash it when someone doesn't dim :)
Yes, that thought does bring a smile to my face...even better if it had a strobe mode! :lol: :p

On a more serious note: I thought the build was very good except for one thing...
Looks like he was using optics on all the emitters. Since these provide a beam pattern that is mostly flood I think likely that half of those *cough* precious lumens are wasted. I think if he would have used a total of five emitters and used reflectors on at least three he would have gotten almost the same effect but with less power used. Not to mention it would only need a battery half the size and be practical as a "real " bike light. As I see it there is simply too much haze produced by the current set up to be remotely useful ( on high ) unless you live in a really dry climate. Still, regardless of where you live the reflective glare of this set up would totally nix your night vision as I see it. Unless you can get 80% of those monster lumens out beyond the 100 yard range it all seems pretty pointless to me.
 
#9 ·
it's not just funny, it's informative.
to start off, 12 xml's are not necessary 12K lumen, especially with those optics.
one statement, that for most rides 4000 is enough, translates to 4 LED's,
car light , 1500 x 2 = 3000 lumen, hid more, 4x xml + heat + lens = 3000 lumen.
always said, 2x handlebar + 1 helmet light is a good start, with old MS it's ~1950
4x MCE = ~2800 .
oh, the heat, handwarmer, that's nice, but I hate noise, especially from fans.
and 12 leds ~140W ,... seen one with a halide lamp, in the 2000W, spot is 1.5 miles,
and it's under 8lbs including battery, runtime 2.5hrs on high, with temps, up to 1400C at lamp,....
next be anything over 2000 real lumen, at 3000 real lumen, be the practical limit,
due battery weight and cost.
oh one more, the design is good, I mean, lost of lamps, come in a cute , little case,
that heat's up in 3-4 minutes, and has to throttle down, dim the power,
so definitely not full power , even the MS does not run full power, the new one has thermal throttle,.... even the Betty, full lumen, at start within 30 sec, ...
this one has probably 3lbs of metal with a high speed server fan, it actually can cool it,
and run at full power. I definitely like that. just not the noise.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Yes that is 1 crap light.

For the last 3 years I have run a 30w HID light with 1850 lumens & it is about as much as you need,The light was a bit heavy ( 340 grams head unit only ) so I used the good batterys I had & went with a nice 3600 lumen light with more features & didn't weigh as much & this really is all you need,even if your an over kill junkie.

That light would be like taking the motor out of a motor X bike,fitting MTB gears to it & saying it is the best MTB.

But good on you for giving it a go, it is people like you that make the Pro light builder get off there but & try to catch up with the game :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

This is what a good 1200 lumen ( 3 led's ) light can do.

http://www.nightlightning.co.nz/adventure_lighting_products.htm

This is the light I went for,Kind of the same light with 9 led's

http://www.nightlightning.co.nz/iBlaast IX.htm

These guys do DIY kits for those that want to have a play themself but may need a good casing to start with.

I must say though that your light would be much better in the snow.
 
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