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  1. #1
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    Found another DIY light housing method

    I am not sure if this has been posted, i did search quickly

    Copper pipe end stop light

    I think this is the housing I want to try and base mine on.

    I have found similar fittings at RS in the UK

    Isn't it a pretty light!

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  2. #2
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    Here is another using copper tube ends and some rc helicopter motor heatsinks.


    http://www.racedaynutrition.com/Features/bikelight.aspx

  3. #3
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    About 8 months ago I posted pictures of one I built out of copper end caps and a piece of brass strip that you can buy at a hobby shop. I soldered the end caps to the brass strip and screwed it to an old computer handle bar mount I had in my shop. I did not use any heat sinks and it never got more then warm to the touch.
    Someone replied that it was not elegant. Ok, but it put light on the trails cheaply. More then once someone with dead HID battery used it to get home.

  4. #4
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    That looks pretty cool and I'm pretty interested in that myself. What does a setup like that run and how usuable is it on the trails?

  5. #5
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    Yeah the copper method does look nice....copper is a good conductor too. I hadn't seen your guys lights before. I jusr refound this chaps one and thought it looked great....good enough for me to actually go as far as doing the housing instead of modding my cateyes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    That looks pretty cool and I'm pretty interested in that myself. What does a setup like that run and how usuable is it on the trails?
    the one in that thread uses luxeons 3s, its basically a home made cateye triple. This is usable, bright enough to go pretty quick, but its not HID bright. LEDs ahve come on a bit since that lightwas made last year.

    I plan on running seoul P4 LEDs, just like I have modified my cateye to have.

    They are bright and 3 is pretty much HID bright and dimmable too. HID Isn't. 4 would be brighter than the average HID.

    when you say what would this run....I may be wrong, do you want to know whats involved?....I'm english and not familar with that phrase in this context hehehe

    but I'll do a break down of whats involved anyway.

    In terms of cost...I may forget something...please chime in if I have

    you need the housing
    a switch
    LEDs (about 8 dollars each I think)...the latest good ones are the CREE XR-E and Seoul P4
    some reflectors/optics prices vary between a few dollars each to 30 dollars or so.
    a controller...I am using a TASKLED nFlex now which is 28 dollars
    battery yo can get a 2.2Ah 14.4 LiIon for about 40 dollars at battery space...plus the cost of a charger....no more than the battery
    a clamp of some sort (a few dollars)
    and a bag or 2 of effort....whats thats worth is up to you

    Not many of the big light makers are using the latest LEDs

    this setup should run a couple of hours on max brightness (1 amp), and can run all night if you turn the wick down a bit....i estimate that if you set the brightness ot equivelent of a cateye triple it will go all night.

    LED is overtaking HID at the moment....lupine them selves say so, and they supposedly make the daddy of hids. frikin pricey though.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  6. #6
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    Yes, I've always though the copper end cap design was simple and functional. The copper caps are a little on the heavy side, but they dissipate the heat well... and the stuff is easy to solder.

    Actually mtbr forum member garboui posted a single Lux V, copper end cap design back in 2005. He was one of my inspirations for getting started in LED bike lights. I went to the home store to pick up the copper end caps, but when I found them, they just seemed so darn heavy, maybe it was thick gauge copper, I don't know. But then after walking around for a while I found the 1" square aluminum tubing and thought, "maybe I could do something with that."
    Last edited by achesalot; 05-14-2007 at 07:07 PM.

  7. #7
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    Yeah, I'm new to the LED's and was hoping to find something that would be equivalent to the light output from a 15wt halogen incandescent that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for your comments achesalot. I haven't received my end caps i ordered yet. hopefully they won't be too chucnky hehe.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Yeah, I'm new to the LED's and was hoping to find something that would be equivalent to the light output from a 15wt halogen incandescent that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg.
    3 seoul LED light shoud be brighter than a 15W halogen. LED light is quite cool compared to halogen though, its a white blue compared to the warmer yellowy halogen. Some people don't like this. I haven't mined as its similar to my HID, but I am going to try somthing to see if some red can be added to warm it up and make things with red colour in them stand out more.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  9. #9
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    Hi

    My copper pipe end caps turned up too. I need to give one to a mate to look at...he is a mechy and has an idea to sort ot the front half of the housings out. I was hoping ti use UCL ultra clear lens glass...but apparenty its a bit fragile

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  10. #10
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    Hi Stuart

    Thanks for posting the link. I think that i may build one of these as well. My current light is a triple SSC p4 in a PVC plumbing pipe with the leds mounted to an aluminium plate. The heatsinking is not good enough at 1 amp. I may take the parts from this and put them in the copper pipe design. The only concern is that the 3023 buckpuck doesn't fit into the endplug so i may need to get the 28mm plg for the back end.

    I see that you are planning to use the nflex - how are you planning to enclose it?
    I am waiting for my nflex to arrive so i can pop it into my aschelot square tubing light.

    Cheers
    Roger

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strong like Bull
    Hi Stuart

    Thanks for posting the link. I think that i may build one of these as well. My current light is a triple SSC p4 in a PVC plumbing pipe with the leds mounted to an aluminium plate. The heatsinking is not good enough at 1 amp. I may take the parts from this and put them in the copper pipe design. The only concern is that the 3023 buckpuck doesn't fit into the endplug so i may need to get the 28mm plg for the back end.

    I see that you are planning to use the nflex - how are you planning to enclose it?
    I am waiting for my nflex to arrive so i can pop it into my aschelot square tubing light.

    Cheers
    Roger
    Hey Strong

    I am not planning on housing the controller in the light end, but the battery end and running remote switch lead zip tied to the light cable up to the step/bar somewhere for the bar light or over my shoulder and cliipped to my camelback strap for the helmet light.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  12. #12
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    Hey

    I have had another idea and going to measure up an alternative plumbing light hehe.

    These copper end caps are available for 35mm pipe. Khatod make a triple led optic with a diameter of 35mm.

    I might try with and without heatsinking....as someone posted in achesalot thread recently, rc motor heatinks can be used for 22mm pipe...well the 35mm is catered for too. You can get a 540 motor heatsink quite cheeply.

    http://www.gwsupplies.co.uk/product.info.php?5382

    http://www.khatod.com/pdf/pl600_luxeon.pdf (luxeon version...they have other leds types too)

    example motor heatsinks

    not sure they will have a low enough thermal resiatnce for static at full power....but with forward motion should be adequate to suck the heat out of the the nice conductive copper.

    I have ordered some bits to try.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  13. #13
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    Hi Stu
    Sounds like a good project -i've been looking for a place that sell the Khatod 35mm triple optics (for Cree and Seoul) -but haven't had much luck yet.
    I think they would be a great option if they performed as well as the 50mm triple.

    Cheers
    Dom

  14. #14
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    Stuart B.

    I used a Cigarette Lighter car adapter. Seems to be working fine so far. See thread Double Seoul P4 LED Light Finished

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Hi Stu
    Sounds like a good project -i've been looking for a place that sell the Khatod 35mm triple optics (for Cree and Seoul) -but haven't had much luck yet.
    I think they would be a great option if they performed as well as the 50mm triple.

    Cheers
    Dom
    Hi Dom

    I have orderes all my khatod stuff direct using kahtods e-store

    http://www.optomarket.com/epages/Opt...UserTemplate/5

    They don't have a Seoul p4 one in 35mm as far as i can see (they do in the larger sizes and single/quads i think) I have ordered cree and luxeon ones to try. I will compare the cree ones with crees to a luxeon one using seouls. sp far i have had good luck with luxeon reflectors unmodded on seouls.

    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    Stuart B.

    I used a Cigarette Lighter car adapter. Seems to be working fine so far. See thread Double Seoul P4 LED Light Finished
    Excellent, i missed that one first time around. that housing looks like it was made for the job.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  16. #16
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    Stu -that is great news that you can buy direct from there
    I tried a few weeks ago-but couldn't find a way -what's the trick? Do you have to email them?

    Here is their Seoul 35mm triple
    http://tinyurl.com/26yu7k
    -i think it will work great -not so sure of the Cree-as it is very short.But you never know!
    The Cree one is 25deg -should be good for the bars hopefully.
    The Seoul is 10deg -maybe good for a headlamp.

    Will be interesting to see how you fare.

    PS -you linked to a handlebar clamp in another thread (Electron double mount) -excellent find!! Have you actually used one yet? It's the best and most versatile one i've seen yet.

    Cheers
    Dom

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Stu -that is great news that you can buy direct from there
    I tried a few weeks ago-but couldn't find a way -what's the trick? Do you have to email them?

    Here is their Seoul 35mm triple
    http://tinyurl.com/26yu7k
    -i think it will work great -not so sure of the Cree-as it is very short.But you never know!
    The Cree one is 25deg -should be good for the bars hopefully.
    The Seoul is 10deg -maybe good for a headlamp.

    Will be interesting to see how you fare.

    PS -you linked to a handlebar clamp in another thread (Electron double mount) -excellent find!! Have you actually used one yet? It's the best and most versatile one i've seen yet.

    Cheers
    Dom
    Hey Dom

    Its just an online affair. Create an account, I selected the "user CEE or italy" option I think thats the option you choose for non business sales, you have to give tax numbers and stuff on the others. I payed tax on that option, so that makes sense to me as a non business sale.....not sure if you pay tax outside europe. I think there is a country selection, so maybe not in your case.

    http://www.optomarket.com/epages/Opt...UserTemplate/7


    That seoul one you linked os for the p3 led not the p4 so I wasn't sure. I didn't bother to check the dimension of the p3 verses the p4 though...i should have. I was too lazy to check as I am reasonably confident the luxeon version should work ok, the LED might need lifting slightly.

    I am really hoping these compare to the reflectors I have...for a bar light i like it floody with out too much of a hotspot. helmet needs a spot though. I have ordered one of each angle to try.

    I have kind of used that clamp, I bought it because it is pretty much identical to the one that came with my trail tech hid....well the bottom half is. I love the brcket on my hid.easy to use, secure and doesn't leave a clamp on your bike when not using your lights ( I hate having random clamps left on the bike). Its easy to adjust on the move too...just loosen the knob a touch, rotate on the bar and retighten.

    have you seen a good helmet mount?

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  18. #18
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    Thanks for that Stu
    I didn't see the P3 or P4 spec on that optic -sorry about that -i don't know the difference myself -will have to check up.
    If it is anything like their single optic -it would be fantastic -beautiful beam!

    Yes -you should be pretty right with the Luxeon optic -they are fortunately very close to the Seouls.

    The nicest headlamp holder i've seen is the Dinotte -really good up/down adjustment by the looks of it.Though you would have to have a similar shape light to suit it.
    Very hard to get a "fit all" type helmet mount -though i'm going to have a crack at it soon:-)

    Just tried to sign up at the Optomarket -but i need a VAT or fiscal number -even on the one you linked me to.

    Cheers
    Dom

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Thanks for that Stu
    I didn't see the P3 or P4 spec on that optic -sorry about that -i don't know the difference myself -will have to check up.
    If it is anything like their single optic -it would be fantastic -beautiful beam!

    Yes -you should be pretty right with the Luxeon optic -they are fortunately very close to the Seouls.

    The nicest headlamp holder i've seen is the Dinotte -really good up/down adjustment by the looks of it.Though you would have to have a similar shape light to suit it.
    Very hard to get a "fit all" type helmet mount -though i'm going to have a crack at it soon:-)

    Just tried to sign up at the Optomarket -but i need a VAT or fiscal number -even on the one you linked me to.

    Cheers
    Dom
    I can't remember what i did about the fiscal number...i might have been cheeky and typed 0 or a - hehe. I got my reflectors ok, and my optic order was accepted ok. might be worth mailing them if the 0/- trick doesn't work as they seem happy enough to send me stuff. the fiscal code field in the pdfs they sent for my orders is empty.

    if the optics work out good, it helps solve the problem of firmly mounting reflectors without them stressing/shocking the led dome and front glass.
    I have had a cree dome come off when tesing a reflector using selotape to hold it on hehe.

    keep us informed of how you do the helmet mount

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  20. #20
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    Hehe -just tried the secret fiscal code - "0" -worked a treat - thanks much Stu.
    I had been emailing a different supplier for the last week trying to get ahold of some of these.

    I'll do a bit of a writeup on the helmet mount -shouldn't be too fancy -just a job for a fretsaw and drill.Just have to see if i can get some 3mm nylon sheet.

    Cheers
    Dom

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Hehe -just tried the secret fiscal code - "0" -worked a treat - thanks much Stu.
    I had been emailing a different supplier for the last week trying to get ahold of some of these.

    I'll do a bit of a writeup on the helmet mount -shouldn't be too fancy -just a job for a fretsaw and drill.Just have to see if i can get some 3mm nylon sheet.

    Cheers
    Dom
    Excellent!

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  22. #22
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    my 35mm pipe ends turned up...looks like it should do the job nicerly. just waiting for my optics and heatsinks to turn up now. I will try with and without the heatsink. in moving and still air.

    I have mocked it up in a free cad package. hopefully you will be able to spin the light using the mouse....never seen this feature before. worked for my mate when i sent it tp him over msn.

    http://www.stuart.w.brookes.dsl.pipe...d%20double.pdf

    needs refining. but the idea is there. might shorten the heatsinks. to suit. i will test wi the hestinks under the light aswell....they look a bit dangerous on top hehe.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  23. #23
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    When I try to open the file I get an error message that the file is damaged.

    Tim

  24. #24
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    Same here.

    Tony

  25. #25
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    arse hehe. Works for me. I am using Acrobat Reader 7. I'll take a screen dump image and post a piccy aswell.

    I have java on my machine too...might be that. guess it needs some active type code.


    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  26. #26
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    Nice job Stu
    Looks like you'll be burning some eyeballs out with that eh!
    Will you be using 2 n/bFlex maybe at 700ma?
    The spinning graphics worked for me -looked great -what was the cad you used?

    Was looking at some more of the optics -the P3 are side emitting -but some of the optics state that they work with both P3 and P4 emitters.
    I've ordered a couple P3 optics anyway -may work :-)

    Cheers
    Dom

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Nice job Stu
    Looks like you'll be burning some eyeballs out with that eh!
    Will you be using 2 n/bFlex maybe at 700ma?
    The spinning graphics worked for me -looked great -what was the cad you used?

    Was looking at some more of the optics -the P3 are side emitting -but some of the optics state that they work with both P3 and P4 emitters.
    I've ordered a couple P3 optics anyway -may work :-)

    Cheers
    Dom
    Hi Dom

    I was thinking 500 or 750 max. 500 could be with one controller running 2 strings in parallel. I still want to run a red LED, in that case I will run 2 controllers, 3 whites and red plus 2 whites on the controllers. 5 and 1 should be good for 650 lumens at 500mA from 11.5W sucked from the bat (includes driver efficiency)

    I really like using more leds at lower current. Its more efficient and the heatsinking doesn't need to be so big (more paths conducting less overall power).

    The CAD is Alibre Design. Its free and has the save function enabled. Assemblies are limited to 20 parts I think. The one I linked uses 3. 4 when I add a grommet for the wiring. Not sure if its the best...but its free....still getting used to it. I haven't used any other packages to compare it, and my mechy mate says they all take some time to get used to (he hasn't used this one).

    The heatsinks and the 35mm pipe end turned up. The 540 motor size one is almost perfect for the 35mm fitting. The 380 motor one is a bit small...but prbably usable still. the optics have been posted.



    didn't realise how grubby my mouse is....ah well .

    I ordered some supposedly 22mm optics from a led place in germany. they didn't say who made em...but they weren't 22mm, I measure them at 24.5....not very precise for a german place hehe. I mailed em to see wht they had to say.

    Let use know how you get on with the p3 optics.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  28. #28
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    Hi, Stu, very ingenious.

    Of where have take out the red heatsink?? How many light have you already??

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by msxtr
    Hi, Stu, very ingenious.

    Of where have take out the red heatsink?? How many light have you already??

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Hi

    I have a cateye doubelshot modded a triple shot modded and a trailtech hid unmodded. And a few ideas . Depending on how the optics work out, the 35mm will be my first full DIY light.

    The Red heatsink can be found here. took about a week to arrive from hong kong. other colours are available too....but I like red bits. yeah racing are well known enough in RC car circles and the 540 motor is the most common size.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  30. #30
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    Stu - having got most of the bits to make a couple of copper endcap individual LEDs apart from the actual endcaps or heatsinks - how long is the 23mm cap inside i.e. from the bottom of the inside to the top edge? Regarding optics, Fraen round ones for Cree XR-E LEDs are 21.8mm diameter including holder, and Carclo round ones for Luxeon/Seoul P4 are supposedly 21.555mm (pretty precise!) but I've annoyingly only been able to get the hexagonal holders so far in the UK (or infact abroad too)... I've got a bunch of optics (Fraen 20mm, Fraen 30mm, Carclo 20mm), some Q2 Crees and Ubin P4 Seouls, a housing from nightlighting, and some buckpuck/bucktoot/bflex controllers, and now need to sort what fits in where! So far my builds have amounted to a single 3W luxeon with 30mm Fraen in a film cannister but I'm fairly impressed with just that as a backup/be seen by light, can't wait to have some triple Crees/Seouls running at 1A!

    Ian

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSBonty
    Stu - having got most of the bits to make a couple of copper endcap individual LEDs apart from the actual endcaps or heatsinks - how long is the 23mm cap inside i.e. from the bottom of the inside to the top edge? Regarding optics, Fraen round ones for Cree XR-E LEDs are 21.8mm diameter including holder, and Carclo round ones for Luxeon/Seoul P4 are supposedly 21.555mm (pretty precise!) but I've annoyingly only been able to get the hexagonal holders so far in the UK (or infact abroad too)... I've got a bunch of optics (Fraen 20mm, Fraen 30mm, Carclo 20mm), some Q2 Crees and Ubin P4 Seouls, a housing from nightlighting, and some buckpuck/bucktoot/bflex controllers, and now need to sort what fits in where! So far my builds have amounted to a single 3W luxeon with 30mm Fraen in a film cannister but I'm fairly impressed with just that as a backup/be seen by light, can't wait to have some triple Crees/Seouls running at 1A!

    Ian
    The 22mm caps I have are 16.5mm or so deep to the deepest part (middle...the aren't perfectly flat at the back).....I used a digital spanner (vernier caliper . The ones I have are from RS. I got my 35mm from Gurney and White. Not sure if their 22mm ones are the same depth. I will be ordering some more 35mm ones when I know the optics are ok...so I will add a 22mm on there too out of curiosty. The RS ones are too shallow for reflector use, but proper 22mm optics (unlike the ones I got) will hopefully be shallow enough.

    Sounds like me....hundred of bits to fit inside stuff...but lacking the stuff,,,till now hehe. Triple Seoul/Cree at 1 amp is quite impressive. HID territory for sure!

    Stu
    Last edited by Stuart B; 05-31-2007 at 10:07 AM.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  32. #32
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    Hmm, the fraen lenses I'd hoped to use are supposed to be 15.9mm long/tall, so with the curve at the back and the depth of the LED star may just poke out the front. Carclo holders seem to be a few mm shorter so should be fine, but like I said I can't find em in round rather than hexagonal flavour! I'm starting to wonder if the round luxeon (so seoul P4 fitting too) holders aren't just for emitters... Anyone know how well an emitter only holder would fit on a star - could I just cut holes where the wires need to come out?

    Finally, while you have the digital spanner (!) out - any chance of an inside diameter reading for the 22mm end caps?

    Ian

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSBonty
    Hmm, the fraen lenses I'd hoped to use are supposed to be 15.9mm long/tall, so with the curve at the back and the depth of the LED star may just poke out the front. Carclo holders seem to be a few mm shorter so should be fine, but like I said I can't find em in round rather than hexagonal flavour! I'm starting to wonder if the round luxeon (so seoul P4 fitting too) holders aren't just for emitters... Anyone know how well an emitter only holder would fit on a star - could I just cut holes where the wires need to come out?

    Finally, while you have the digital spanner (!) out - any chance of an inside diameter reading for the 22mm end caps?

    Ian
    have you checked the khatod ones for depth?

    the inside diameter of the cap is a gnats cock over 22mm.

    I have the data sheet on my desktop. ill check the khatod ones again if I don't hear from you.

    I will probably order th other 22mm cap soon to meaasure too.

    stu

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  34. #34
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    http://www.khatod.com/pdf/kepl198_zpower.pdf

    the khatod 22mm optics should be ok dimensions wise.

    the holder is 13.95mm deep.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  35. #35
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    I have some GW 22mm caps on their way to measure.

    I'll update you next week with their measurements

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart B
    Hi

    I have a cateye doubelshot modded a triple shot modded and a trailtech hid unmodded. And a few ideas . Depending on how the optics work out, the 35mm will be my first full DIY light.

    The Red heatsink can be found here. took about a week to arrive from hong kong. other colours are available too....but I like red bits. yeah racing are well known enough in RC car circles and the 540 motor is the most common size.

    Stu
    Hi, Stu.

    And you use all that light at the same time?? take a break, chap don't work so much hehehe.

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  37. #37
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    No...one after the other at endurance races. And If can make a light that is as bright as I have, lasts all night and has better colour rendition aswell I won't need my other lights anymore!

    Sorry for trying to keep my mind active while I have been off work and not been able to ride recovering from a smashed tibia plateau since the middle of march.

    Its not work....its a hobby!

    I could sit on my arse and watch daytime TV all day every day and slowly go mental. But I'd rather not. I have turned mental enough as it is.

    I would love to be out on my bike....but I won't be riding for a while yet...assuming my knee will even allow it again. As well as intersting, my lights give me something to hope to use!



    edit...sorry for ranting. sitting on my arse for weeks makes me touchy sometimes!

    Stuart
    Last edited by Stuart B; 06-01-2007 at 07:16 AM.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart B
    No...one after the other at endurance races. And If can make a light that is as bright as I have, lasts all night and has better colour rendition aswell I won't need my other lights anymore!

    Sorry for trying to keep my mind active while I have been off work and not been able to ride recovering from a smashed tibia plateau since the middle of march.

    Its not work....its a hobby!

    I could sit on my arse and watch daytime TV all day every day and slowly go mental. But I'd rather not. I have turned mental enough as it is.

    I would love to be out on my bike....but I won't be riding for a while yet...assuming my knee will even allow it again. As well as intersting, my lights give me something to hope to use!



    edit...sorry for ranting. sitting on my arse for weeks makes me touchy sometimes!

    Stuart
    With a passion like yours to ride again Stu, I reckon you'll be up and about sooner than your doctors say you will.

    Good that you are doing something and not watching Oprah etc.

    I really dig the external heatsink idea, and the red fins look awesome !

    Tony

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony_J_Ross
    With a passion like yours to ride again Stu, I reckon you'll be up and about sooner than your doctors say you will.

    Good that you are doing something and not watching Oprah etc.

    I really dig the external heatsink idea, and the red fins look awesome !

    Tony
    thanks Tony! I hope to be on 2 wheels again asap.

    sorry about my strop earlier hehe. I am sure the intension wasn't t wind me up. not knowing my situation I can see that it might appear overly obsessed. I probably am overly obsessed....but it keeps me relatively sane hehe.

    I like red bits hehe....luckily rc cars have pretty colours too hehe. hopefully having the heatsink there will provide good cooling in static and moving air....even if the back of the led isn't so close the heatsink...copper is a good heat conductor though.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  40. #40
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    Magic Stu :-)
    You should have no probs at all with heat issues.
    Are you making the singles for a headlamp?
    They will look really trick.
    The Khatod optic you linked to is for the P3 - i use similar ones but for the P4 -from PhotonFanatic at CPF

    I had my leg wired up for 8 months -know how you feel.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Magic Stu :-)
    You should have no probs at all with heat issues.
    Are you making the singles for a headlamp?
    They will look really trick.
    The Khatod optic you linked to is for the P3 - i use similar ones but for the P4 -from PhotonFanatic at CPF

    I had my leg wired up for 8 months -know how you feel.

    sorry about the bad link.

    as far as using the 22 ones....I am playing with ideas really. I started off on the 22mm track first before the 35mm one. I want to use the red led idea on the helmet too. I am not sure if I will use 22 or 35 for the helmet. depends on how the optics compare to the reflectors I have and whether or not the new 22mm ones are deeper (for reflector use).

    what did you do to your leg?

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  42. #42
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    Hi Stu
    Broke my tib & fib just below the knee after contact with a car on my bike.Had one of those rings with wire,braces and bolts into my shin and knee. Works ok now though.
    Hope yours works as well.
    What were your circumstances?
    Good that you have an interesting hobby to tide you over.

    Cheers
    Dom

  43. #43
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    ouch. Luckily I didn't need the frame through the skin job. I got a plate and 8 or so screws holding the tibia plateau together and a straped on brace that limits bend and provides some lateral support.

    Its pretty daft how I did it. I was making up numbers for a paintball event. Only the 2nd time I have ever done it. I was hiding behind a sheet of wood screwed to a tree.....and tried to run to anoither further down. My feet never quite caught up wih me and and i went down, My foot was twisted and I think I must have kneed the floor on the way down still trying to run....felt it go crunch straight away,,,,managed ot get carried oof the field. no one shot me though hehe. The paintball place emntioned getting an ambulance but were really lame and didn't call one for 2 hours....so I called my mate instead and he came and took me to A&E. Spent 11 days in hospital....slowy going bonkers hehe. Still some of those doctors and nurses are sweet hearts hehe.

    Back to copper bits....The GW 22mm caps came...they are the same depth as the RS ones...so stil a bit shallow for reflectors. I will try to see if the 20mm ones fit inside 22mm pipe...and extend the light using a short length of pipe if the wall thicness is thin enough.

    The 35mm optics turned up too. Not tried them on the LED yet....but they are a perfect diameter to fit inside the 35mm end cap.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  44. #44
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    I have been looking at the halogen standard sizes...its funny that the 35mm and 50mm optics "coincidentally" are the same diamter as mr11 and mr16.

    its a little bit pricey for the true thifty diyer perhaps, but it migth a bit of the hopusing effort out...especially as it has the mount too. depends on what going on inside.
    http://www.lumicycle.com/Product/pro...LO_UNIT&dep=87

    I might mail them to see if they would sell without a bulb.

    edit no need
    http://www.lumicycle.com/Product/pro...ALO_CAN&dep=87

    when you add the clamp and so on....it might be worth just getting the whole unit and having a mr11 bulb to play with

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  45. #45
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    Hey Stu -nice of you buddys not to shoot you while you were down LOL.
    No coincidence about the optic sizes -they are made to replace the halogens without the manufacturers having to retool too much.

    Perfect lamp unit -great find -would be worth buying the whole unit -would still have a pretty cheap and nice LED setup.
    Hope the 35mm optics work OK.

    Cheers
    Dom

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    Just got some 22mm endcaps from my local plumbing place. Not as cheap as the online places - closer to £2 each than £1 - but they have a flat bottom inside and seem to be 18.5-19mm deep internally so may hold some of my lenses - I'll know more when I get em home tonight! (I used a way less hightec measuring system than you - stuck the handle of a teaspoon in, marked where it came to with thumbnail, used plastic ruler to measure, so I could be a bit out but it seems as though they are definitely longer - result!).

    Incidentally - with your 35mm attempts - are you going to be using emitters rather than stars, as I assume you can't fit 3 stars in a 35mm housing... and how will you space them correctly to fit the optic?

    Finally - back to the 22mm's, you mentioned the heatsink you bought was a little small - in what way? Diameter making it a tight fit on the cap? Or lack of heatsinking fins? Or something different?

    I reckon I'm getting there with a bunch of different designs, just need to get to my folks house at some stage and do some soldering!

    Ian

  47. #47
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    And before I buy any heatsinks - which RC motor type is it that will fit the 22mm caps - a) 280 (sometimes listed as 280/300) or b) 380? Seem to be some interesting types for both, will try to get one with maximum fin coverage.

    Ian

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Hey Stu -nice of you buddys not to shoot you while you were down LOL.
    No coincidence about the optic sizes -they are made to replace the halogens without the manufacturers having to retool too much.

    Perfect lamp unit -great find -would be worth buying the whole unit -would still have a pretty cheap and nice LED setup.
    Hope the 35mm optics work OK.

    Cheers
    Dom
    Hey Dom
    I guessed it wasn't really a coincidence. makes good sense to make something that is retro fitable is a common fitting size.

    Hey Ian, good news on the extra depth. You need a digital spoon though

    I will have to use emmitters to get them inside, starts are about 20mm diam on their own. I might try and get a ally disk turned for each unit so that the leds sit flat instead of on the slight curve of the cap back. its so slight i might try without first.

    The 280 and 380mm motors are 24mm diam. the 380 being longer. the OD of my pipe ends i have are 24.8mm. The heatsink does pop on ok as shown in the piccy previous. but its splayed a bit.the heatsinks i have, have fan mount holes, these bend towards each other so that the mount fins are no longer parallel. the inside curve of the HS doesn't quite form a perfect circle...but with some thermal epoxy it should be good enough.

    Either should be ok, but I imagine the 280 ones are nearer the length of the end cap.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  49. #49
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    I just orderd one of those lumicycle lamps to look at.

    Also...I just realised they are about 20 miles away from where I live. When I am driving again....I might give em a call.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

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    Cool, thanks for the help. Cree Q2 star + Fraen optic seems to fit really well in my end caps, maybe 1/2 a mm stickin out the front. Need to work out how to waterproof though, probably just try to seal with balck silicon sealant or similar. Will make up a few, one with a handlebar mount and a 420Ma bucktoot inline with the wire, externally, for ultralong runtimes even off my tiny 7.4v/2400Mah battery (I calculate just under 9 hours!), one helmet driven with a 1A buckpuck mounted externally on the helmet mount, and then one using the 28mm Fraen optics in a 35mm film cannister with an internal Nflex or bflex, up to 1A, and a Seoul P4. Add those to my 420Ma 3xCree Q2 in a nightlightning housing and i should be set for all manner of 24s/long distance events. And if I can geta round to understanding the dynamo circuits I've been given and come up with a design for a 4xCree dynamo, should be good too!

    Ian

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