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  1. #1
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    First dual beam lite

    Well, I've done a few simple light projects and felt like moving on to a more ambitious one.
    I originally wanted to try a NiteRider Classic Dual Beam XM-L conversion:



    However, when I tore it down, I just saw a LOT of trouble using the NR body; too many angles to get a good LED mount/heatsink and zero room for electronics:



    OK, Plan B. Dual 35mm optics will fit perfectly in a Hammond 1455K1201 so...



    To the shop for the face plate:



    Gen2 U bin XM-Ls from Cutter:



    b3Flex:



    Finish up the build and...









    ...Voila

    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  2. #2
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    Well done Roxtar!

    What is the white thing between the driver and LED heat sink? Some type of thermal tape?

    Very cool first double!!!

    Don
    09 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by beecrazy View Post
    Well done Roxtar!

    What is the white thing between the driver and LED heat sink? Some type of thermal tape?

    Very cool first double!!!

    Don
    Thanks, that's a piece of teflon sheet that I just slid in as a barrier between the driver electronics and the heatsink. The b3Flex is thermal pasted to the heatsink with the included spacer. That spacer creates an air gap but this is just to make sure.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  4. #4
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    A classic DIY design. The hammond box has been a solution for many good builds.

  5. #5
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    Houston, we may have a problem.
    It looks like that Hammond box, while nice looking, doesn't have enough heat shedding capability to deal with two XM-Ls at 3A.
    Any suggestions on better heatsinked enclosurers?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Houston, we may have a problem.
    It looks like that Hammond box, while nice looking, doesn't have enough heat shedding capability to deal with two XM-Ls at 3A.
    Any suggestions on better heatsinked enclosurers?
    Is that riding, or in still air? Other than setting the b3flex to throttle when it gets too hot, maybe you just need to (to borrow from Captain Beefheart) grow fins. (Or glue heatsinks on with jbweld.)
    The study du jour: can one's reputation be artificially inflated by simply putting a request for rep in one's sig?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by borrower View Post
    Is that riding, or in still air? Other than setting the b3flex to throttle when it gets too hot, maybe you just need to (to borrow from Captain Beefheart) grow fins. (Or glue heatsinks on with jbweld.)
    It was sitting inside so it might be OK for riding. I'm concerned though because it only lasted about 10-15 minutes inside before shutting down. That's pretty quick, even for inside.
    That housing might not be enough surface area for 2 XMLs @ 3A.
    Anone know of an enclosure this size:

    http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1455K1201.pdf

    With better heatsinking characteristics?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  8. #8
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    Impressive project. Nicely done!

  9. #9
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    Your problem might be the anodizing which has much worse thermal conductivity.
    Is there anodizing on the inside of the housing too? Is the housing very hot when the driver thermally shuts down or can you still hold it?
    I'm using aluminum extrusion with only external anodizing and the heat seems to flow pretty well, even without thermal grease. I found an article on candlepower forums supporting my test results, explaining why thermal grease isn't as good as thought to be, and that two smooth aluminum surfaces joined by moderate pressure can perform better thermally.

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