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  1. #1
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    First Build - Double Sled Design - Double XP-G R5 + Regina

    Hello, (1st post!)
    I basically had an XPG torch for my lid, which was great. I have lost it, so now I have an excuse to build!

    I just want to run through what I propose, along with the bits I am not sure about (lots of questions), so that you kind people can help me decide which way to go, and point out any mistakes I have made. I also hope to encourage others to build!

    I know the double XPG Regina thing has been done many times, so I hope this doesn't bore to many people.

    I have based this on Mattthatmuppet's Sled Design, but creating a Double Sled - The sled concept just seems to make sense to me, simple, and available to anyone with access to regular hand tools and materials.

    I am in th UK and trying to keep delivery costs to a minimum (ordering what I can from dx/kaidomain/bestofferbuy etc.)

    see the attached design in pdf.

    Emitters:
    XP-G R5 Stars 20mm or 16/14mm dia.?
    -I was initially going to buy the 20mm dia. star from Kaidomain, but the I saw the stated
    dimensions are too big. are these dimension correct? - read as 25mmx 25mm

    Drivers: - this area was/is a tad overwhelming
    I preferably want a driver with 3-modes(low/med/high). and will work with my
    8.4V-7.4V 2s pack (which I haven't built yet, so this can change)
    options I have come across:

    1. b2flex - preffered by many here, sounds great, just the high cost and programming the thing
    that is putting me off. - maybe upgrade to at a later date.

    2. something like sku6190 from DX. - amc7135 type
    - but would need it to be able to take a higher Vbatt from my supply, so I can drive 2x XP-G's in series. - I cant find one out there, so forget this.

    - OR (the big question)!! Would it be possible using the above (sku6190), to run 2x drivers in series, each separately feeding an XP-G?
    I believe this is what."download" is doing here post #13 and #16

    he is using 1driver without modes in series with another driver with modes..... the driver with modes switches the other non-mode driver/s.....would this actually work??...
    this is where i am out of my depth.....
    i have only found this one post about this setup...

    the other way would be the poormans setup, but I can't work out whether that would work with the modes??

    sorry for all the questions... thanks for reading
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    TV-Kid
    That is an excellent illustration.

  3. #3
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    Thanks SBJohn,
    It's not too detailed as to internal components, but is pretty much what I want to build.

    Anyway, I had to give you lot some eye-candy after reading through the OP... I didn't realise how much I ramble on!

  4. #4
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    Avoid the guesswork of the series drivers setup by changing your battery configuration to 2P and run the drivers in parallel off that.

  5. #5
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    oh you git, I knew someone would do this before I got a chance to do mine !

    looks good, pretty much how I'm planning on doing it, except mine will be a double U (instead of your single U) as I have to fit a h6flex in there to drive 2 XM-Ls.

    If you're using 1in square tubing, 20mm stars and Reginas will fit fine. If you're going for 3/4in sq tubing (like Scar's Amoeba) you'll have to trim both.

    I know alot of people on here have good success with DX drivers, but personally I'd skip them altogether and get an lflex from Taskled.com. It'll be an order of magnitude more expensive ($26 inc. p+p vs. $3-4) but it will be superior in every single way - programmable modes, temperature controls, battery warnings and guaranteed to be more reliable. Plus it'll fit inside this light pretty easily (back of the U) and you'll be able to run your battery as a 2S pack. I've built 6 lights with taskled drivers and I can't see myself using any other, well, apart from a cheap bitza rear light, but that's another story..

    I don't know if you've sorted out the mounting yet, but I'd recommend going with the Cateye spacer/bar mount/ helmet mount setup. Cheap, super easy and you can attach the spacer with the same bolt that holds the sled in place.

    Looks like you have it pretty buttoned down, but if you need a hand, let me know!

  6. #6
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    thanks for responces

    @Vancbiker
    I was thinking this before, but I got a bit stuck with the emitter end of the circuit. bare with me...
    So a 2P battery-pack (4.2V to 3.7V), drivers in parallel also. But how would I wired the xpg's... series or parallel?
    and would the emitters each get the 3.3 Vf each they require at say max setting 1000-1100mA each?
    Would I be able to also have modes?
    many questions I know!
    Thanks

    @mattthemuppet
    Sorry mate! I didn't want to step on your toes! It was your 1st double XPG build that got me interested in the whole idea of building... then I saw the possiblities with the sled design... either way, i'm not in a rush, so you will probably beat me to the finish line!

    The 3/4in sq tubing is very tempting size wise. Rather than chop the 20mm stars, I would go with smaller ones (14mm or 16mm dia)

    The" Cateye spacer/bar mount/ helmet mount setup", is the way I am leaning, except I haven't seen this helmet mounted yet, any advice or example pics would be great.

    Regarding the taskled drivers, I want to explore the DX route first. This is purely down to cost and the way I have always done things is to spend less but more actual work for me. Some times after many DIYs, I have spent equal to what I would have, if I had just bought the finish product or paid someone in first place... but other times I have paid alot less with sufficient succes, which gives me satisfaction. - so we will see!

    Regarding fixing the sled and heat dissapation. do you have problems? I would have thought it would be better if the sled was upside down so all heat is transferred to the top surface, rather than the enclosed bottom. If it was upside down then the fixing screw would be on top, and possible problems with waterproofing (due to the fixing hole), and of course more importantly there are the aesthetics to worry about!

    Strain relief recommendation? - i don't want to use a large cable gland, something internal would be nice. Dont mind DIYing it.

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    Think I just worked out what you wrote, Vancbiker.
    2P battery-pack (4.2V to 3.7V), drivers in parallel, each separately feeding an XPG. That way they get the require voltage.correct?
    but how do I manage the multi-mode... both drivers with modes? I'm lost with this part.

    Cheers

  8. #8
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    Or 1 L-flex driving 2 XM-Ls from a 7.4v 2S battery pack I believe.
    You could even use a Regina in one and something wider in the other.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid
    Think I just worked out what you wrote, Vancbiker.
    2P battery-pack (4.2V to 3.7V), drivers in parallel, each separately feeding an XPG. That way they get the require voltage.correct?
    but how do I manage the multi-mode... both drivers with modes? I'm lost with this part.

    Cheers
    You got it. The modes could be handled with independent switches, one for each driver. It could also be done with a double pole switch (one mechanical operator switching 2 electrically separate circuits).

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid
    @mattthemuppet
    Sorry mate! I didn't want to step on your toes! It was your 1st double XPG build that got me interested in the whole idea of building... then I saw the possiblities with the sled design... either way, i'm not in a rush, so you will probably beat me to the finish line!
    no problem, I'm just pulling your leg. That and the fact that others have done far more with this design than I have!

    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid
    The 3/4in sq tubing is very tempting size wise. Rather than chop the 20mm stars, I would go with smaller ones (14mm or 16mm dia)
    It's not just the stars that have to be smaller, but the reflectors/optics and the driver too. Scar files down the Reginas he uses in his to get them to fit and any driver that requires a thermal paths (eg. the Lflex) won't fit without using a larger alu extrusion (check out his 2x XM-L light in the Amoeba thread to see what I mean). That's why I use 1in sq - the weight saving is negligible, I'd guess 5-10g at most, which you just won't notice.

    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid
    The" Cateye spacer/bar mount/ helmet mount setup", is the way I am leaning, except I haven't seen this helmet mounted yet, any advice or example pics would be great.
    I ordered my helmet mount ages ago but Cateye has it out of stock. I'll pester y LBS to check again. Looks pretty simple though and not very expensive ($8 I think). I'll post feedback whenever I get mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid
    Regarding the taskled drivers, I want to explore the DX route first. This is purely down to cost and the way I have always done things is to spend less but more actual work for me. Some times after many DIYs, I have spent equal to what I would have, if I had just bought the finish product or paid someone in first place... but other times I have paid alot less with sufficient succes, which gives me satisfaction. - so we will see!
    to each their own. I go by the motto "buy cheap, buy twice". Plus, the fact that Scar, who's been using a simple fixed mode driver in his Amoebas for years, is going gagga over the Lflex, is a pretty strong endorsement. I think a good driver (not DX/KD) turns a light from being a glorified torch into something equivalent to what you get from the big name brands.

    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid
    Regarding fixing the sled and heat dissapation. do you have problems? I would have thought it would be better if the sled was upside down so all heat is transferred to the top surface, rather than the enclosed bottom. If it was upside down then the fixing screw would be on top, and possible problems with waterproofing (due to the fixing hole), and of course more importantly there are the aesthetics to worry about!
    My current sled light is running a slightly flaky XP-G @1.2A and auto-dims after 5min standing still with the temp setting at 50C, at which point the housing is about 35C. So 2 XP-G @1A in nearly the same surface area per LED should be fine. I added a piece of CPU heatsink to my 2x XP-G helmet light (now 1x XP-G + 1x XM-L) just in case, but I've never had it auto-dim. We'll see how it goes in summer temps instead of 10F temps I use it in over winter.

    As for heat dissipation, it doesn't really matter what surface the sled is bolted to - after a while the whole housing should be at the same temperature.

    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid
    Strain relief recommendation? - i don't want to use a large cable gland, something internal would be nice. Dont mind DIYing it.
    I use Sugru now (it's from the UK) or you can make your own with acetic cure silicone and baking soda (or something), check out my "tis the time for ..." thread down a bit. I just think cable glands look ugly and take up a lot of space, but that's just my opinion - others on here have had a lot of success with them.

  11. #11
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    Thanks tv-kid for the detailed drawing of your sled housing! This was the clue I needed to complete my plans!

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    I do like the whole idea of "sled designs", especially if you already have 25 x 25 or 19 x 19 mm tubing to hand, but if you have to buy it in for a build, would it be just as cost effective to get a small hammond case from Maplin (or elsewhere) and save a lot of relatively accurate sawing, filing and polishing off?

    I'm sure you've seen the mega thread http://www.singletrackworld.com/foru...s-inside-light that morphs in to a very similar light to yours. With the exception of a very tiny amount of trimming of the 20mm star, all other components fit perfectly in the hammond case.

    Just offering this thought as an alternative, not as being better!

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    No worries Havi. Remember though, you must work out the overall length yourself, as I didnt accurately measure star thicknesses etc - I did the drawing/model before I brought anything, so I could picture how it sits/fits before I dove into buying stuff.

    NOTE: You probably dont need to have the central cutout (at the back), all the way to the top, as mattthemuppet has done is his recent thread:
    Thread: Finally, a Real Light (TM) for a Real Man (TM) - see post #30
    It would also allow for more contact area for jb welding

    Bobblehat, I think you have a perfectly good point. I just checked, and I started this thread on 04-15-2011, and have not yet finished my light. ok, so 2 weeks were spent waiting for items, and I have neglected the project due to DIY duties... BUT, there is alot of time consuming filing that could be halfed, and if you file off to much then you have knackered it.

    Im hoping to update this thread soon with some pics. and costs.(trying to do it on a budget). The one thing that wont be costed is the large amount of time spent building the light (i dont value my time much), or the even larger amount of time spent researching/sourcing components and overall setup. I wish I knew how many hrs I spend reading some stuff.

    laters

    ps. so annoying not being able to post links, private message etc.

  14. #14
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    I have to work out all measurement, I live in Germany, so I can only get hands on metric parts, e.g. 25x25mm square tube. And what is more, I use a different driver (Led-slave by pcb-components.de) which has a different size.
    My point was that the sled design enables me to disasseble the rear part, so I can access the driver. That´s a big plus as I am not the greatest solderer in the world....
    My idea was to drill a hole through front and rear part of the housing from underneath near the rear end an screw the parts together.
    I wanna use an old Hope-lights stem front plate instead of a handlebar mount so I have to figure out how to attach the housing to the stem plate...
    If I find a solution and build one, I´ll post it in here if you don´t mind.

    Thanks for the inspiration!

  15. #15
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    I think the Hammond box approach is an excellent one and I agree that 4ft of 1in.sq. tubing ($20-25) is greater outlay. However, who on this forum has ever just built one light? I've built enough (6?7?) that I've finished one extrusion and had to buy another - the wife looked at me pretty funny over that.

    I find that the sled light is a lot less sensitive to precise cutting than the Amoeba/ Achesalot design (my 1st build) as the only bit that really has to be precise is the bit at the back of the sled, which is the back plate on the finished housing. All the other bits inside the light just have to fit - doesn't matter if there's a mm or two spare. I also used a jigsaw with a metal specific blade this time and it cut my build time in half, easily. Still takes an age though, but on the plus side, upgrading the LED(s) is a piece of cake

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    Guilty! Three LED lights built recently and already thinking about the next!

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    I also agree with Matt.
    I first saw the hammond case lights, which appealed . Then i stumbled across the amoeba style and fell head over heels for them, i really loved the simple aesthetics. But I just couldnt see myself building one though, due to the way they were put together.just wasn't practical - which is a must.

    Then when i saw Matts sled style, it all fell into place.

    Just gotta finish the dam thing now!!!

    Cheers

  18. #18
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    Great looking light TV. Love a well though out design.

    In response to other posts, that's the problem with diy, it's an addiction. You finish one light then think, ooooo, could i make one a bit brighter, so you do, then a new led chip comes out and you have to make yet another, and the process starts all over again.

    It's really a perfect example of perpetutal motion.

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    I've been getting in a couple of great night-rides over the last month, and this has renewed my enthusiasm to finish my light. I eventually found my xpg dx-torch, and have been using this on my lid. Although the light is great, it lacks the run time (<2hrs), and the weight strains my neck on a long ride (even though it is mounted very close the the helmet). So, my new light should improve on these factors!

    Anyway!

    I have previously wired the circuit up to see if it works, and it seems to work as desired. BUT, the wire I have been using is too thick, and strains the solder joints.

    Can I have some advice on wire gauge/mm2 please? and whether I should be looking for a specific insulation etc (heat and flexibility). I'm guessing that multi-strand would be best for flexibility and soldering.

    cheers dudes,
    tv

  20. #20
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    others on here have far more experience at choosing wire gauges than I do, so hopefully they'll chime in, but just use whatever I can salvage from old computer PSUs and the like. For 3A current draw (XM-L on full) you'll want multicore that's kind of hard to bend, for momentary switches you can use stuff that you can tie tiny knots in and for everything else use something in between.

    It's worked pretty well for me so far

    Hopefully the nights drawing in will inspire you to finish this off. I've been riding with my twin XM-L sled light for months and it's simply awesome!

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    brad72: forgot to say fanks

    matt: cheers for responce and encouragement. I think I have a suitable donor...

    some basic pics for you all:

    As you can see, rather than using self tapping screws, I have opted to use M3 self-clinching fastners. I was'nt confident about using the self tappers long term in the soft aluminium.

    I will be using the same fastners (maybe M3.5), to fix/clamp the sled into position.






  22. #22
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    wow, that's way neater than anything I've ever done! Waaaaay neater, especially the back plate fitting. Well done! Neat touch with the self-clinching fasteners too, be interesting to know where you got them from. Did you glue them on?

    I imagine the rest of the build shouldn't take long. Are you still going to use XP-Gs or will you use the newer XM-Ls? Decided on the driver and optics yet?

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the complement dude. It's just the way I work...I wanted to take my time making a complete one first time, rather than having to scrap rushed ones. The back plate looks flush in the photo, but I will have it set in a bit so the silicon sealeant is slightly protected. All done without power tools, apart from using a drill press for the holes.

    The fasteners were given to me by the sheetmetal worker we sub stuff out to. I/we use them on nearly all our sheetmetal components/products. They don't glue in, they are pressed into a specific diameter hole, and cold form the metal to "clinch" the fastener in place. Search for "PEM Fasteners", they even do studs, standoffs, allsorts of stuff. I just pressed them in with a vice, but studs and standoff would need a specific press tool.
    blah blah blah...

    Anyway, I've already got the xpg's so I will stick them in this along with the reginas, and some cheapo drivers... - I can always upgrade at a later date which is the beauty of it...

  24. #24
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    tv-kid, it looks like you have a lot of accuracy going on there. Nice! Good luck.

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    Nearly there people....
    Some more OVERSIZED pics for you guys before I seal it all up.

    M3.5 fasteners press fitted, and holes for cable entry and switch drilled:


    All wired up and it seems to work (and fit in!) .....which is ace!


    A shot showing the toggle-switch.
    The switch is wired as: OFF-ON-OFF(mom) - single pole.
    As these are'nt actually available, I manage to configure a ON-ON-ON(mom) double-pole switch which seems to do the trick! - the sprung (MOM) position allows me to switch modes, by flicking it down - I will see how I get on with this.


    Need to do list:
    -Mount the reginas - this is just done which normal silicon sealant right?
    -Secure lexan window. - 5min epoxy?
    -Then make water tight with a bit more silicone...
    -I was just going to use velcro to mount it on my helmet... any objections to this?
    -use very fine wet'n'dry paper to give a nice fine brushed finish to the main body (as I have already done to the back of the sled) - at least it will look nice for it's maiden ride

    Sorry, I know this is all more of the same that you've all seen already... I started the thread, so I'll finish/complete it.

    Thanks for reading

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid View Post
    Need to do list:
    -Mount the reginas - this is just done which normal silicon sealant right?
    -Secure lexan window. - 5min epoxy?
    -Then make water tight with a bit more silicone...
    -I was just going to use velcro to mount it on my helmet... any objections to this?
    -use very fine wet'n'dry paper to give a nice fine brushed finish to the main body (as I have already done to the back of the sled) - at least it will look nice for it's maiden ride

    Sorry, I know this is all more of the same that you've all seen already... I started the thread, so I'll finish/complete it.

    Thanks for reading
    looks good tv-kid, bet you're glad that you're nearly there. You did a very tidy job considering how little space you had in there. Are those 1A DX drivers? Why two?

    - mounting Reginas - silicone is fine, just make sure it's non-acetic acid cure as that stuff rots contacts. Put a thin layer on the bottom of the Regina, put it in place, let it cure and then go back and build up a thicker "shoulder" of silicone around the junction

    - 5min epoxy is excellent, just make it up in small batches

    - velcro helmet mount. Lots of people do this and they're happy with it. Personally I don't like having a light on the top of my helmet as it makes it bob more and, more importantly, I can't adjust the angle easily for different trail conditions (or even trail side repairs). The Marwi mount that El34 sells looks good, or there's the Cateye mount system too.

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    Cool. I was nearly going to use the acetic acid kind. Got loads of it. - nice tip with the two stage process also.

    Yep, the driver is a 1A dx. They can only take 4.5V max. So I have 2x drivers (the one linked to in the 1st post), wired in parallel, to a 2P, or 4P batt pack. Each driver obviously feeds an xpg. The driver is configured to 3mode, low,med,high. If something goes wrong with an led or driver, it wont effect the other circuit. - vancbiker set me off in this direction in post #4, i was blind to it.

    Shops for velcro and non-acetic sealant in the morning.

    Cheers matt

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

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    Check out the 3M Dual-lock velcro.
    I use it for under my hinged mounts, but also use some Velcro One-wrap over the mounts.
    I just secure the Reginas with a dab of 5 min epoxy.

    Those M3.5 PEM fasteners look really nice and tidy. Got any spares? I think a few of us might buy some from you.

  29. #29
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    Cool.

    The fasteners are tidy, and no fear of cross-threading etc.. the fabricator only gave me half a dozen though, so no spares to talk of really.

    Any friendly sheetmetal worker near you?

    Just hit this up on ebay though. things might pop up now and then
    200pc LOT SOUTHCO FLOATING CLINCH NUT 73-10-210-24 NEW | eBay

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    Quote Originally Posted by bardynt View Post
    having ten posts so i can put links to ask about which is better bike
    Harsh, I thought I had some interest there

    ok. Update, - a lesson i've learned

    After playing a little with my light, (and wearing sunglases), I realised that the modes on the two boards were out of sync by 1 step. I had to unsolder 1 of the boards to bring them into line. Since then I have done numerous cycles and they are still in sync. Fingers crossed that they dont go out (I cant see how they will unless there are major differences with the boards - I should have checked before soldering... I didnt realise they had a 2 sec memory (which is a bonus though) ).

    Very pleased with the the spread of light. Lights the shed at the bottom of my garden wonderfully - cant weight to use it.

    cheers.

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    Hi, Very interesting design and nice case. I'm considering something similar using the square Ledil optics. I have found some alloy extrusion at Bunnings (I'm in Australia) that measures 30 X 50mm outside with 2mm thick walls. The square optics fit quite nicely with just a tad vertical clearance. Has anyone else tried this tube for a 'sled' light? Would seem to save a bit of cutting effort. I just have to find some 'U' channel with a 26mm depth (for a neat closure at the rear) or else I may add an extra back plate.

    I have also made some enquiries re. PEM M3 self-clinching nuts. It seems I can get a minimum order. I have nominated M3 as I think Jaycar sell small plated (or nylon) screws in that size.

    Savvas.

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    Very nicely designed and manufactured light tv-kid. If you have continuing issues with the drivers you could replace them with a single driver designed to drive up to 3A like this one and wire the XP-Gs in parallel so each one sees half the current, 1.4 amps each with that particular driver.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Those M3.5 PEM fasteners look really nice and tidy. Got any spares? I think a few of us might buy some from you.
    I have quite a few of the same fasteners in M4 size if people need them, which fit the cateye spacer bolt. I'm in the UK so PM me if interested.

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    30x50mm extrusion

    Thanks Savvas, glad you are interested, the fastners are worth it. If I was you, I would'nt bother trying to source 26mm high extrusion as you may still need to finish it. instead, use what you already have, check out the sketch below:


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    cheers mfj197, I will keep that in mind. I used the light in anger on friday night and it was excellent. So far no issues with the drivers on different modes, which I was expecting. The momentary sprung toggle switch works better than expected. Cant wait to use it again.

    cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid View Post
    Thanks Savvas, glad you are interested, the fastners are worth it. If I was you, I would'nt bother trying to source 26mm high extrusion as you may still need to finish it. instead, use what you already have, check out the sketch below:

    Mmm - that does make much more sense doesn't it! You've got me all inspired! In fact I'm now the proud owner of a bag of M3 PEM fasteners. They're tiny. They are not nicely plated like yours - just finished in a dark 'steel' colour but I guess they'll be fine. Any tips on how they are installed?

    ta,

    Savvas.

  36. #36
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    Savvas
    This is what my fabricator recommended to me:

    pre-hole diameter required for fasteners (the ones I had anyway)

    M3.0 - 4.2mm dia. hole (I only had 4.1mm dia. bit, which made it a tight fit and hard to center)
    M3.5 - 4.8mm dia. hole
    M4.0 - 5.4mm dia. hole
    M5.0 - 6.4mm dia. hole
    m6.0 - 8.7mm dia. hole

    The fastener should then sit centered in the hole, but not fully in. I then use a vice and press them slowly into the hole. Alu is soft so it will deform and flow into the right places quite easily. Just make sure you pressed them in evenly and that they are centered properly.

    I definatly recommend doing this on a piece of scrap first, just so you can be confident you have the correct pre-hole size, and confidence in your technique for when you insert them into your final piece.

    The fabricator reckons you can put then in with molegrips to. - not tried this, and not tempted to.

    One more thing, if the fastener is close to the edge (like mine are), the material will be pushed/deformed out a little. You will see a bulge on a straight edge. I just filed the bulge back down. But if I thought about it first, I think I would have put the fasteners in sooner, so the material deformed more around the fastener, rather than creating a bulge on the closest edge - path of least resistance. - Saying that, I had no problems with them falling out, and even if one is loose the screw from the other side holds it in place.

    would'nt worry about the colour dude.

    good luck! Have you got a build thread?

  37. #37
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    Very nice design and workmanship, tv-kid. Indeed, you could have used just a single 7135 (poorman) with a 2s battery (just fyi).
    Good to hear you don't have problems with mismatched modes - I'm surprised.

    Those little fasteners look ideal. Looks tidier than jb welding a nut down.

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    Cheers for the compliments rlouder. It was a gamble putting the multimode drivers in parallel (they were only a cheap experiment), and suited the battery config i wanted : 1SXP. Otherwise I would have looked into the poormans setup as u suggested - it confused me alot at first buts it good to understand all the options.

    Thanks again dude!

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by tv-kid View Post
    The fastener should then sit centered in the hole, but not fully in. I then use a vice and press them slowly into the hole. Alu is soft so it will deform and flow into the right places quite easily. Just make sure you pressed them in evenly and that they are centered properly.

    I definatly recommend doing this on a piece of scrap first, just so you can be confident you have the correct pre-hole size, and confidence in your technique for when you insert them into your final piece.

    The fabricator reckons you can put then in with molegrips to. - not tried this, and not tempted to.
    Yes, don't underestimate the force needed to press the fasteners home. I used a (admittedy cheap) vice which worked; however I don't think the vice workings will ever be the same again. What used to be a pretty smooth vice is now hard work to wind in/out.

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    Can't say i've had this problem, BUT the vice I used was a decent 5" engineers vice - the bar is about 12"+ so lots of leverage. No prob with pressing them into mild steel (not so soft), never tried stainless.

    Thinking about it now, the guy didnt recommend mole-grips, it was a G-Clamp - this makes much more sence, as there would be no way of squewing/stressing the threads, as its all inline and even. support the g-clamp in the vice, - get a ring spanner to give more leverage - simples

  41. #41
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    Great light

    Wow, excellent attention to detail. I'm making a similar light now, my first one also. It's not nearly as nice as yours, I'm using similar components, XPG, Buck puck, sq. alum housing. Good job !

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    QUESTION - how bad and how fast will my exectronics corrode if I use acid RTV silicone sealant for my faceplate and rear cover ? I could not find non-acid silicone. I'm worried all the internals will corrode out.

    Thanks

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alinvanc View Post
    Wow, excellent attention to detail. I'm making a similar light now, my first one also. It's not nearly as nice as yours, I'm using similar components, XPG, Buck puck, sq. alum housing. Good job !


    QUESTION - how bad and how fast will my exectronics corrode if I use acid RTV silicone sealant for my faceplate and rear cover ? I could not find non-acid silicone. I'm worried all the internals will corrode out.

    Thanks

    Thanks for the kind comments dude, I love to see what others have done or plan to do. I like seeing everyone's modifications/improvement to designs, making them simpler to fabricate / additional features. It's like the evolution of Mattthemuppet's original sled, combined with Scars neat light. Dont worry about neatness too much, people like to see other's slant on the designs.

    ANYWAY
    In the UK, it's not called "non-acetic acid" sealant. it is called something along the line of: low modulus neutral cure silicone, it will mostly be the frame sealant, for around windows etc.

    saying that, I have no idea about corrosion, and I sealed the back of mine with the acetic acid variety - it seems to have a stickier consistancy, that i liked.

  44. #44
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    Yes, I had a bit of a game trying to find the stuff in the UK, as most DIY stores didn't clearly advertise which type was which. However I found it on ebay easily enough. Everbuild Builders Silicone 450 is typical of the neutral cure type, and cost me the grand sum of £4.09 with free delivery.

  45. #45
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    I have not seen any results of acetic cured silicone on bikelights, but have seen electrical junction boxes on industrial machinery sealed with it. It caused a pretty heavy growth of whitish corrosion on tin plated copper terminals. No failure was caused but the wiring was heavy duty compared to a bikelight and no electonics or PCB were involved. IMO avoid if possible.

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    silicone types, thanks

    thanks guys for the info on the silicone. I am just now putting the finishing touches on my 1st build headlight and am ready to seal the front and rear covers. I have the acidic silicone, but will look around for the non type. I'm dying to seal it up and ride, but out here in the Pac NW, it's rainy season. I'll make a thread showing the headlight and taillight, I think I did a decnt job for a 1st run.

  47. #47
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    GE silicone II is a neutral cure type. Home Depot carries it.

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