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  1. #1
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    Finally, a Real Light (TM) for a Real Man (TM)

    None of this machining nonsense, XYsandwhatsits and all that jazz. I'm going to be rending a light with cold bare hands (cue Charlton Heston voice), some entirely inappropriate tools, a dash of incompetence and even my teeth if necessary.

    So, after that intentionally inflammatory and attention grabbing title, can anyone guess what this simply awesome light will be made out of?

  2. #2
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    hopes and dreams?
    I WANT TO BUY YOUR MAGICSHINE LIGHTS! Working or not.

  3. #3
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    nope, not bright enough

  4. #4
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    A quad XM-L urologist's scope?

  5. #5
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    unicorn tears?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobdotorg View Post
    A quad XM-L urologist's scope?
    ooh, interesting. I did read proctologist for some reason, which is a touch disturbing. Either way, bacteria, cancer, anything really wouldn't stand much chance with that..

  7. #7
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    ... and if we just ...

    Edited: delete failed attempt at humour
    Last edited by find_bruce; 05-30-2011 at 04:45 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
    unicorn tears?
    hadn't thought of that actually.

    Sadly, now I've hyped it all up the answer is much more prosaic:



    however, if I had to choose between a small lump of aluminium and 6ft of 1in.sq. tubing with which to fight an angry bear, the tubing would get it every time (quickly followed by me, I guess)

  9. #9
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    might as well get into the meat and potatoes of it.

    Meant to take a pic of the 3 sled pieces but it was a bit boring so I didn't.

    here's the back end of the sled, about to be chopped up



    after being chopped up



    and with its matching front sled pieces loosely bolted on



    driver (h6flex) goes in the middle, LEDs on the end and switch/cable/remote cable go on the other end (top, in the picture).

    Have to cut the outside bits (from my bear-beating, Real Man 6ft length of tumultuous tubing) off tomorrow and haphazardly cut them to size

  10. #10
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    I'm making a similar build, but using a DIY Class A Amp heat sink as the base. A hacksaw, file, drill and tap should get most if it done. Maybe I can finally put the cordless Dremel to good use.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by find_bruce View Post
    Oh oh oh I got it.

    You are going to make a tail light, by using your hands to take one of these

    and put it where you think the sunshine come from.

    You have been told you are not competent to find the appropriate receptacle with both hands, so you will be using tools to help you locate it.

    Finally you will use your teeth if necessary to trim your nails so you don't give yourself an injury.

    Did I get it?
    how do you guys come up with this stuff? Genius

    Funnily enough (hence the morbid dwelling on proctologists), I heard a funny saying the other day:

    "may your proctologist have thin fingers"

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobdotorg View Post
    I'm making a similar build, but using a DIY Class A Amp heat sink as the base. A hacksaw, file, drill and tap should get most if it done. Maybe I can finally put the cordless Dremel to good use.
    neat! You'll have to do a build report so we can see how you did it.

    Sadly, I have all the imagination of a snail, so all my lights are made out of exactly the same material. As a technological improvement akin to the invention of the steam engine, I am now using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut off the lumps. Takes a couple of minutes and the bits end up relatively square, as opposed to 30min plus and like an Escher drawing using my Dremel


  13. #13
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    Long days of Northern Hemisphere Summer are upon us. Building slows.
    Order your parts now from DX and KD and maybe they will be here in time to build lights for winter riding season.
    In the mean time be thankful for hyperactive worm wranglers hacking lights out of tubing and keeping this forum going.

    Appreciate the entertainment and good luck with the new light. Thanks.

  14. #14
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    Come on Matt please talk x y and z, its the only language I understand

  15. #15
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    New bombproof light with 10*XML? (:

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas View Post
    Long days of Northern Hemisphere Summer are upon us. Building slows.
    Order your parts now from DX and KD and maybe they will be here in time to build lights for winter riding season.
    In the mean time be thankful for hyperactive worm wranglers hacking lights out of tubing and keeping this forum going.

    Appreciate the entertainment and good luck with the new light. Thanks.
    don't forget the boyz dahn unda, they're starting to hit "winter" about now

    funnily enough, I ordered some of the parts for this light back in January, I've just been futzing around doing other bits and pieces in the meantime (although I do now have a very neat rear facing dome light for my Focus wagon). Plus, my helmet light is actually pretty decent, it's mostly the fact that I ride v. rocky trails but can't see the rocks (no shadows) that prompted building this light. And the fact that it'll piss off my riding buddy with his Seca 700

    on the subject of funny, I built my commuter light when it was ~ -20C in the garage and you could barely see me under all my clothes, now it's ~ +30C and I'm getting bits of Dremel disk pinging off my chest. Crazy.


  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Come on Matt please talk x y and z, its the only language I understand
    and to think we're both from the Motherland, sniff

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by klynk View Post
    New bombproof light with 10*XML? (:
    I wish! On both points!

    It will however have a completely mismatched set of hacked up computer heatsinks cooling (possibly) it down so it doesn't self combust

  19. #19
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    computer heatsinks...

    +1 !!

    and Artic Silver epoxy and lexan and ...

    Good luck !

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Come on Matt please talk x y and z, its the only language I understand
    Jay, what about A & B axis when you convert the SX2 beast into a 5 axis milling machine

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjPCE...embedded#at=11
    Last edited by brad72; 05-30-2011 at 06:51 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Jay, what about A & B axis when you convert the SX2 beast into a 5 axis milling machine

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjPCE...embedded#at=11
    Thats just crazy

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Jay, what about A & B axis when you convert the SX2 beast into a 5 axis milling machine

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjPCE...embedded#at=11
    whaaat? Stop speaking in tongues will you!

    I see the invidious (perfidious?) influence of the machining monkeys is seeping into this thread. I must stamp it out at once!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTGV View Post
    computer heatsinks...
    they're the best ones! You get added brownie points the older they are - the one I have in mind is from a PII (that's Pentium, not Phenom) slot heatsink. There's a risk that it'll make the light look like Dame Edna's glasses, but that's a risk I'm willing to take..


  24. #24
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    Whouaou !
    What a night bird look ! Do you often cross this cyclist ?
    The hairs make me say that you should have a go for a violet ano on your PII heatsinks !
    Ah, and diamonds are the best for heat conduction....

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    whaaat? Stop speaking in tongues will you!

    I see the invidious (perfidious?) influence of the machining monkeys is seeping into this thread. I must stamp it out at once!
    when words like invidious and perfidious are being used, it is time to get the hand tools out. Hand scrape the flats where the led dies sit and file the heatsink grooves. Must say though if my workshop was sitting at around -20º i would want to have a hack saw or file in my hand to get the blood pumping.

    As for heatsinks, I found one from about 15-20 years ago. Perhaps I should donate it to the national trust or perhaps attach it to my mill made light to keep it real

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTGV View Post
    Whouaou !
    What a night bird look ! Do you often cross this cyclist ?
    The hairs make me say that you should have a go for a violet ano on your PII heatsinks !
    Ah, and diamonds are the best for heat conduction....
    she/he rarely looks much better than that I'm afraid.

    Only silver heatsinks - I once tried painting a light so the black heatsink and silver body didn't look so goofy and that was a time consuming mess.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    when words like invidious and perfidious are being used, it is time to get the hand tools out. Hand scrape the flats where the led dies sit and file the heatsink grooves. Must say though if my workshop was sitting at around -20º i would want to have a hack saw or file in my hand to get the blood pumping.

    As for heatsinks, I found one from about 15-20 years ago. Perhaps I should donate it to the national trust or perhaps attach it to my mill made light to keep it real
    it's the only way you can reconnect with the Real Man(Tm) within you Brad!

    Also, having a slightly shonky looking light makes other riders, with their shop bought lights, a little less embarrassed that yours kicks their arses. IMO obviously

  28. #28
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    and you all thought I was joking about the 6ft length of bear-beating tumultuous tubing?


  29. #29
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    managed, just, to fit it in the vice and cut two lengths for the housing



    cut a section out of each centre facing side to leave room for the driver and wire between the 2 LEDs



    and JBwelded the 2 together overnight



    now I know that JBweld sticks pretty well to wood After cursing at it for a bit I got it all apart, it's all straight and the sled slots in perfectly.

    now I need to drill and tap various holes, hack up a PII heatsink and figure out how to attach my Cateye spacer without skewering the driver. Off to a conference tomorrow, so no updates until next week..

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    and you all thought I was joking about the 6ft length of bear-beating tumultuous tubing?

    6ft = 1828.8mm
    That gives you room for 91 xml's on 20mm stars

    Just stay off narrow single track with a 6ft wide light

  31. #31
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    that should give me enough light I guess.

    like you said, maneuverability would take a hit, plus passing people on even fireroads would be tricky!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    None of this machining nonsense, XYsandwhatsits and all that jazz. I'm going to be rending a light with cold bare hands (cue Charlton Heston voice), some entirely inappropriate tools, a dash of incompetence and even my teeth if necessary.

    So, after that intentionally inflammatory and attention grabbing title, can anyone guess what this simply awesome light will be made out of?
    achesalot beat you to it...
    Triple Seoul P4 LED Light

  33. #33
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    beat me to what?

    his (and Scar's) lights were the inspiration for my original helmet lamp last year, but their style is a pain to work with which is why I thought up this "sled-light" variation. This is my 1st double sled light after building 5 single sled lights. Thought people might be interested to see how it goes..

  34. #34
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    I think we all are looking to deeply, well done Matt for making a 6ft long square tube.
    How many rolls of foil did You have to melt down and extrude?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    How many rolls of foil did You have to melt down and extrude?
    none, though I did have to leave the wife at the shop so I could fit it in the car. She didn't say anything so I assume she was ok with it

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    none, though I did have to leave the wife at the shop so I could fit it in the car. She didn't say anything so I assume she was ok with it
    That reminded me of this super cheap auto ad from a few years back
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piQX5...eature=related

    Matt, next time you JB weld like that stick a small piece of baking paper, you know the stuff the little lady cooks your cookies on, between the tube and the clamp. This stops the wood from sticking and the paper "should" peel of the JB weld dags that seep out. Also i have found the tubes stick together much better if you give the two facing sides a hit with coarse sand paper. The epoxy seems to key better that way.

    Nice work

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    thanks for the tips Emu, especially the baking paper. I scuffed up the mating surfaces with the dremel before hand as I've had plenty of experience of JBweld being poo. More progress next week, shouldn't take too long to finish up..

    funny ad I remember Supercheap, used to get alot of my car bits'n'pieces there.

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    right, some more work done on Dame Edna. She aint pretty, but she's entertaining:


    from the back


    and underneath (oo-er missus)


    heatsinks are from an old Pentium2 gel imaging PC that blew up at work when the power went out a while back. Drilling is superbly shoddy, but adds to that quintessential "made by a blind Englishman in a shed look" that hipsters get all wet over. The platform on the bottom is to add some more meat for the Cateye spacer screws to bite on - the housing tubing is thinner gauge than the sled ($20 for 6ft or $25 for 4ft, do you think I'm an idiot Mr. Homedepot?).

    Now I need to drill some more holes - for the sled and spacer screws, plus the LED mounting screws. Tonight or tomorrow night, depending on how knackering the ride is tonight.

  39. #39
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    Hmmmm.... Might be a good time to buy stock in the JB Weld company

    I do like the large heat sink area. As long as you have a good thermal path from the LED to the housing those emitters should be happy.

  40. #40
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    A little bit goes a long way Seriously, since I started clamping parts together to JBWeld them, I've had to use hardly any of the stuff. Seems to help with the thermal transfer from housing to heatsink too.

    The whole bottom of the sled will be in contact with the housing (cinched down with 4, possibly 6 screws, with thermal paste in between) so hopefully the contact will be ok. Seems to work well in the single LED sled lights I've made, so hopefully it'll be able to handle the full 20W. It's not as good as the unibody lights which have at least 1 less thermal junction, but mine is clearly going to be prettier!

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    the little lady
    if I called Ingrid that, she'd cut my nuts off. Seriously, she comes from the same region of Ecuador (Manabi) that Wayne Bobbit's wife came from (don't search from work, please). Even calling her The Wife gets me a dirty look.

    oh, the baking paper trick worked a treat though, thanks

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    many have used a table say with carbide tipped blade for cutting fins.

    I use 125mm carbide tipped blades in angle grinders all the time for cutting alloy. Does a fantastic job. I also have a 125mm carbide blade mounted on an arbor for my mill. Just need to keep fingers away an they are far from forgiving.

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    Real men aren't scared of their wives. But like all real men we know what's good for us and by creating the illusion that ours wives are the boss we are able to get what we want and still get some action, if you get my drift.

    As for the light she's coming along nicely. Certainly looks like will handle the heat nicely and plenty of finned surface area. I look forward to seeing the finished product.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Care to show us a pic Brad? I can only imagine its a slitting saw hence the arbor?
    I'll put a pick up tomorrow Jay. More or less a slitting saw, just take 4mm cuts which is perfect for fin cutting, like trouties table saw. One of my workers has a 300mm saw blade on his mill. He did say he stands well back though

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    how do you cut your fins ?
    without loosing fingers ?

    still to poor, to get an X3 or even a ZX45 mill,...
    anybody tried a plunge router ? or do you use a table-saw ?

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    many have used a table say with carbide tipped blade for cutting fins.

    I use 125mm carbide tipped blades in angle grinders all the time for cutting alloy. Does a fantastic job. I also have a 125mm carbide blade mounted on an arbor for my mill. Just need to keep fingers away an they are far from forgiving.
    Care to show us a pic Brad? I can only imagine its a slitting saw hence the arbor?

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    I want to say "looking good" but that doesn't seem quite right, nor does "not as ugly as you threatened".

    How about "looking purposeful & practical"?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    many have used a table say with carbide tipped blade for cutting fins.

    I use 125mm carbide tipped blades in angle grinders all the time for cutting alloy. Does a fantastic job. I also have a 125mm carbide blade mounted on an arbor for my mill. Just need to keep fingers away an they are far from forgiving.
    I agree, that's a really neat way of cutting fins. However, I'm incredibly accident prone (plus I need all my fingers for work) and can't find locally the thicker gauge tubing that Troutie and Andy13 use. That's the trouble with buying 6ft of the bloody stuff, you're kind of stuck with it for the next 10 lights or so

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Real men aren't scared of their wives. But like all real men we know what's good for us and by creating the illusion that ours wives are the boss we are able to get what we want and still get some action, if you get my drift.

    As for the light she's coming along nicely. Certainly looks like will handle the heat nicely and plenty of finned surface area. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
    so very true. However, Manabitas (women from Manabi, Ecuador) are renowned for a) their firery tempers and b) punishing their husbands transgressions with a machete; flat side if you've only been a little bit naughty, sharp side if you've been very naughty. Pays to err on the side of caution IMO

    thanks for the comments. It'll certainly be a face only a father can love

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by find_bruce View Post
    I want to say "looking good" but that doesn't seem quite right, nor does "not as ugly as you threatened".

    How about "looking purposeful & practical"?
    thanks! the "not as ugly as you threatened" is quite a complement.

    no progress planned until the weekend as I feel like I've been hit by a train after last night's ride and I plan on doing no exercise at all tonight

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