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  1. #1
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    Aug 2007
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    25

    A Few LED Assembly Ideas

    FYI - After soaking in a lot of ideas from numerous postings (and of course, thanks to the Achesalot design), I have a few ideas that I wanted to share. They are explained with the attached photos.

    Photo 1 is a front view showing a .020" thick Lexan cover attached to the front body using the adhesive backed aluminum tape. This is HVAC tape you would buy at Lowes, cut into 1/4 inch strips. The unit hardly gets warm, but the tape is made for elevated temps. The nice thing about this is I can quickly change out the cover if it gets scratched from multiple wipe downs.

    Photo 2 is a close up of a velcro "break-away" keeper. We ride tight single tracks in the AppaIachians and I was paranoid about using a locking connector and a branch snagging the cable and breaking the light or my neck. I use a pig tail for the electrical connection with the velcro keeper. The width of the velcro was cut to adjust the tear away strength.

    Photo 3 & 4 shows the handle bar mount and the assembly taken apart. The attachment to the polyurethane base and the body assembly is all done with one wing nut. Instead of using angle brackets on the side, I used a brass tube JB Welded to the inside of the aluminum tube. This allows for more room to stuff the bflex, wire, switch, etc. into the main body and it allowed for one bolt to do double duty.

    Photo 5 shows my atempt to provide a good thermal path to the front of the light. I applied a fillet of AA around the aluminum squares and clamped the front of the light housing to it (with mold release) before it cured. This way, the front housing is a perfect press fit to the main housing. This is probably not as efficient as the thermal compound, but better than an air gap.

    Also, if you are using bare emitters, an easy way of isolating them from the aluminum is to: 1. Paper punch some 2-3 mil tape. 2. Place the puched hole on the aluminum body where the emtter will go. 3. Apply a small amount of AA on the punched hole. 4. Squeegee the AA across the punch hole and allow to cure. 5. Remove the tape and you have a nice 2-3 mil, insulated pad to bond your emitter to. I would lightly sand the pad to take the gloss off and check for zero conductivity between the pad and the aluminum before I bond the emitter (Double check it after it is bonnded too). I use heat shrink tubing to isolate the leads and wire from the aluminum body.

    I hope some of these tips will help.
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  2. #2
    I like Monkeys
    Reputation: VaughnA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    889
    Nice work. I like the idea of the brass tubing and the wingnut. I think it would be easier than the way achesalot's works with the additional advantage of more room to work inside.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

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