External switch + mode control
I was pondering whether or not to use the momentary MC switch for the L32 board, so I built an external switch that contains an On/Off power button and a momentary switch for the advanced Mode Control functions.
It's about the size of a Jolly Rancher and can be used on the bars or helmet.
The body of the switch is 6061 T6.
It has a flashlight type power button and a 6mm micro momentary that are recessed to be flush with the lip of the aluminum. The heat shrink forms a diaphragm over the buttons that will protect it from the elements, but when you push on the front half you get on/off...back half is momentary.
Don't suppose you took any build photos? I'd like to see the components and how it goes together.
Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.
Same here! Looks like a good idea!
I'll cut the shrink off it so you can see what I did. I filled the back side w/ glue just to take up space and seal it up a bit more, but you'll be able to deduce what's going on in there.
I basically just machined a large square hole with a lip for the power switch to go in from the back side face first. Then I drilled two holes for the legs of the momentary and machined a square hole from the front for that to sit in. Then I ran both sets of wires out the side.
If you don't want to build one yourself, I sell these for $5 on my web store.
You can just lightly tap the switch to have a momentary type action.
Otherwise, it is SPST on-off
Little different momentary action there El34.
My momentary is normally off and turns on when you push it. It's specific to the L33 MC boards that require a NO-MOM switch.
I have two sets of wires coming out of the switch. The power button can do a half-tap like your switch, Doug. The other set of wires goes to the momentary for the "Advanced Functions" on the L33 MC board:
"As a minimum all you need is to connect the power supply to the power input leads. By interrupting the power supply you can switch between 3 predefined levels (100% -> 20% -> 2%). Optional button provides more features (smooth mode switch, low-mode programming, different strobe patterns). If you need two (or more) modules to work in sync, use PWM output/input pads. Probably I had to reserve posts for them too.""the updated firmware features:
- 3 modes (100%, 20%, 2%) switched sequentially by power cutoff (up to 5 sec)
- 2 modes switched by an optional button
- Adjustable low mode (50%-0%)
- Smooth mode change for easy eyes accommodation
- 3 strobe patterns including ISO standard SOS
To adjust the low setting and to switch to strobe you'll need a button.
Single click switches the light between 2 modes, the full throttle and some low.
On the low mode holding the button >2sec enables low mode adjustment. Any value between 50% and zero may be selected.
On the high mode holding the button during >2sec turns it to strobe mode."
Yes, you can make spring loaded switches like the one in that housing do either NO or NC type momentary actions.
If the switch is on and you press lightly, the contacts separate.
If the switch is off and you press lightly, the contacts come together.
All you do is push lightly on the switch plunger without pushing all the way and making the switch click.
Edit, Ahh, I see now that you have more than two wires
I went to hunt up other Judco switches that will fit into the housing I sell.
There are several Judco momentary switches available, but I only see a SPDT momentary, no DPDT momentary.
All the rest are SPST momentary
Looking at your image there, I can see the top mode change momentary switch, but I don't understand what other function you are doing via the switch.
What is your switch, DPDT momentary?
Re-reading quazzles bit there, looks like a SPST mometary is all you need to do basic switching?
Just wondering in case others only need a simple switching scheme and a SPST momentary will do the trick.
He's got 2 separate switches in the housing. 1 for power and the other for modes.
Originally Posted by El34
ok, so two SPST's in one housing
I have not been following the threads on this module.
Thanks for the info
Nice idea and well put together but have you tested it yet on trail, or even in the garden?
I ask for two reasons
I know the minimalist look is great and most of us want to keep building smaller and smaller toys but is that not too small to operate with a gloved finger, at night, as the trail turns from flowing non technical to something a little more technical requiring more light?
also I ask because I'm confused. Is the switch a push to make contact or a push to break contact (always get confused between NO and NC). My understanding was that the switch normally has contact so power is running through it, you push to break the contact to "interupt the power". Sorry if I have just muddied the waters even more. I guess to reduce confusion, in my mind atleast, is this the same type of switch needed for taskled drivers or the opposite?
Can you provide links to the switches you got?
Holy Jesus Allah peanut butter tofubacon sandwich that switch mechanism/housing is small!!!
QUOTE from MTBR.COM: You have given Brewtality too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.
Originally Posted by emu26
If you read this post by Quazzle:
A nice alternative to P7 LED (1100 lumens guaranteed)
You will see that his board requires a N.O. switch to operate the advanced modes. When the circuit closes, I assume it sends a little signal to the processor.
So...the mode switch is N.O. momentary. The larger switch will kick it down to pre-defined levels in a pinch. (and yes...it works well at night with a gloved finger)
Worst case...the larger button is a power interrupt when half-tapped like any torch:
By interrupting the power supply you can switch between 3 predefined levels (100% -> 20% -> 2%).
BTW, meant to ask earlier
How are you liking that module?
Around $50 right?
It's top notch fer sure. I ordered a single-mode L33 and an L31 on my first order. Easy to mount and good quality.
This second round, I got an XP-E and XP-G L33 MC. I haven't recieved them yet, but should be here any time.
The triple was installed in the square housing I had and sold really quick. It's definitely more light than a P7 or the Double Regina. I wish there were a conjoined reflector that could sit down on it to harness the full potential of the Cree's kinda like that 6x Romisen or the Trustfire TR1200, but that could possibly cause it to have a little too much throw w/ not enough spill. Watt per Watt...it is impressive. Especially on a 20mm footprint.
My shop heat tests were not as "real life" as I thought. I underestimated the amount of airflow I would get. My L31 was pushing around 45C on the bench...but it was barely even warm to touch when I was actually on the trail.
I don't know how it would compare to your P7 reflectors...I think your reflectors may be a little more efficient than the MS / MTE's that I compared mine to.