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  1. #1
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    Easy2LED XM-L build

    Here's a build with the EasyLED housing, XM-L, LEDnLIGHT LLC01N narrow optic and L-flex.
    I had all the parts but the housing lying around.

    It went together in just over an hour, but I spent a fair bit of time thinking out setup.
    The little optic fits in the housing perfectly. I'll need to seal the front threads using thread sealer.

    The waterproof switch is fairly bulky, so I needed to use the deeper side of the housing for switch and driver. Good thing about this is lots of room for wires.

    Here's the XML LED and optic


    Housing, cable and gland


    All wired up, with the switch in the back plate. By using an O-ring between housing and back cap, there's only about 1.5 turns of the thread, so the flexible silicone switch wire should be fine.


    Finished light assembly


    Helmet mount/heatsink added,




    Mounted as headband light for running- makes a good headlamp. I may make a 1-cell battery for ultralight headband use.


    Here's what's inside the battery pack:

    Bottom line- simple, tidy build.

    I'm still not overly fond of the LLC optic and its wider beam. I don't think a Regina or Laura RS will fit in the small end of this housing, and the switch won't work if I reverse it and use the deeper end of the housing for the LED and optic.

    I may change it to an L334 and XR-E when the 139 lumen/watt version comes out.
    Last edited by Ofroad'bent; 09-12-2011 at 07:06 AM.

  2. #2
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    Nicely done. What is that gland you used???
    I WANT TO BUY YOUR MAGICSHINE LIGHTS! Working or not.

  3. #3
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    It's a little rubber fitting I got from Troutie I think. I traded a few screw-type glands for some of these, but this is my last one.

  4. #4
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    I had a thought about the optic- if Zemike could offer a front lens with threads a few mm longer, there would be room for a Regina or a Laura deeper round optic. Right now there's just not enough height in there.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I had a thought about the optic- if Zemike could offer a front lens with threads a few mm longer, there would be room for a Regina or a Laura deeper round optic. Right now there's just not enough height in there.
    Well, can you tell me exactly how many mm longer? I will check if it is feasible.

    The switch looks compact, do you remember the model?
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike View Post
    Well, can you tell me exactly how many mm longer? I will check if it is feasible.

    The switch looks compact, do you remember the model?
    Mike, I would love it if the lens cover was 3-4mm deeper. That would allow me to modify a Laura optic for the existing build.
    Alternatively, if the back cap was a few mm deeper the light could be reversed and there might be enough room in the smaller compartment for the switch wiring and the L-flex. Hard to tell without actually fitting the pieces. If you do get this worked out I'll be glad to test it for you.

    The switch is this one:
    1pc Waterproof Momentary OFF-(ON) N/O BOAT Switch,BK33B | eBay

    I got the o-rings from Dealextreme. One of those fits nicely on the back cap between the housing and the outer flange, sealing it well.

    I know there's enough space for the originally intended L333 build. Perhaps you could sell the longer threaded caps as an option for builds requiring a separate driver?

  7. #7
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    Neat build Offroad'Bent. I have been trying to work out how to do a similar build for a simple commuter light using a single XML, regina, lflex, integrated switch and easy2led housing and had concluded it wasn't feasible. My homebrew helmet light has 16mm for the driver side and i can just fit the switch and grommet.

    I wondered about drilling out the tail cap and bolting a 5mm extension to the outside, giving more space and getting over the twisted wire problem, but if Mike can CNC a deeper tailcap that would be a better solution.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JezV View Post
    Neat build Offroad'Bent. I have been trying to work out how to do a similar build for a simple commuter light using a single XML, regina, lflex, integrated switch and easy2led housing and had concluded it wasn't feasible. My homebrew helmet light has 16mm for the driver side and i can just fit the switch and grommet.

    I wondered about drilling out the tail cap and bolting a 5mm extension to the outside, giving more space and getting over the twisted wire problem, but if Mike can CNC a deeper tailcap that would be a better solution.
    A deeper tailcap would give enough space for the driver and switch in the shallow end, leaving lots of room for the LED and Regina in the deeper end.

    I was also thinking that if Mike can CNC a deeper front lens cover with a ring or flange that can screw down, an O-ring could be used between the ring and housing to get a good seal there, like I did with the back cap.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I was also thinking that if Mike can CNC a deeper front lens cover with a ring or flange that can screw down, an O-ring could be used between the ring and housing to get a good seal there, like I did with the back cap.
    Well, that can be an optional product. What should be the front lens cover thread height? 10mm or more ?
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  10. #10
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    Correction- The LLC01N optic is from LEDnLIGHT not Leidl.
    LednLight by Gaggione

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike View Post
    Well, that can be an optional product. What should be the front lens cover thread height? 10mm or more ?
    The existing front cover has 4mm of threads. I reversed it to fit the LEDNlight optic.

    8mm would accommodate a bigger optic, 10mm would allow a Regina, and perhaps have room for an outer flange and o-ring. Hard to say for sure without having it in my hands to play with, but I think everyone would be happy with that. Then they can use the bigger back compartment for driver, switch and cable gland.

    You may want to consider buying a batch of 50 of those little rubber cable glands, and a bag of O-rings too, to offer on your website.

  12. #12
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    Nice build. Did you consider using an in-line switch so you could mount the driver in the short end of the housing, leaving the long end free for an XM-L and suitable optic / reflector? I like the length of the housing as is, as the short end fits triple boards and optics so well.

  13. #13
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    This would work very well with an L333 build and inline switch. You'd just use a small cable gland in the back cap.

    I prefer the 2-switch option on the L333 though, with the one switch for 100%-eco. The inline switch alone goes 100%-off-20%-off-2%-off, which is a bit of a pain. For the 2switch option you'd need another switch on the light anyway.

    I'm not sure if you can do an inline switch with the L-flex and XM-L, unless you could find a fairly narrow gauge 4-core wire.
    Last edited by Ofroad'bent; 09-12-2011 at 07:01 AM.

  14. #14
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    The recent comments illustrate what I see as the major hurdle in trying to produce a "stock" housing for the DIY market. Everyone wants a different LED and optic combination to suit their preference, let alone drivers, switches, cable entry and mount. The variety of stack heights and space requirements are endless.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    The recent comments illustrate what I see as the major hurdle in trying to produce a "stock" housing for the DIY market. Everyone wants a different LED and optic combination to suit their preference, let alone drivers, switches, cable entry and mount. The variety of stack heights and space requirements are endless.
    Actually, this housing has a lot of potential. With the deeper caps discussed, most of the popular options would work.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    The recent comments illustrate what I see as the major hurdle in trying to produce a "stock" housing for the DIY market. Everyone wants a different LED and optic combination to suit their preference, let alone drivers, switches, cable entry and mount. The variety of stack heights and space requirements are endless.
    Yeah that is a bugger in the DIY world I have seen but...

    what if like there were different size rings that could screw into the orig. housing and that would add depth as needed?

    Might make a perfect all around housing.
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I'm not sure if you can do an inline switch with the L-flex and XM-L, unless you could find a fairly narrow gauge 4-core wire.
    Actually it is possible with the remote switch housing which I am also selling - there's a Y-cable included.

    Regarding the taller glass ring - I think there is a simpler possibility - an extension tube.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbflyfshr View Post
    what if like there were different size rings that could screw into the orig. housing and that would add depth as needed?
    That would certainly be a solution. It adds some complexity and additional risk for the seller. How many housings to order from a manufacturer is one thing, but then add how many 4mm rings versus 6mm rings versus 10mm rings for that order. The seller will no doubt end up with some rings selling better than others and not likely matching what was ordered. Seller ends up with no stock of the more popular sizes and surplus of the less popular.

    Then comes cost. Ordering 100 identical rings is cheaper than 4 orders of 25 pieces of different dimensioned rings. The fact that only the length changes will help that cost difference, but it will still be there.

    I'm not saying Zemike should not pursue the idea. I think it is great that there are some people out there willing to take a bit of risk to supply a product to a small niche market. If I did not have the ability to make my own housings, I'd probably be here asking for something to suit my specific wants too

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike View Post
    Actually it is possible with the remote switch housing which I am also selling - there's a Y-cable included.

    Regarding the taller glass ring - I think there is a simpler possibility - an extension tube.
    Does the Y-cable have 4-core wire, with 2 to the switch and 2 to the battery?

    I think a threaded extension tube could work here, but it's not as simple as a 10mm threaded cover with lens and a lock ring.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Does the Y-cable have 4-core wire, with 2 to the switch and 2 to the battery?

    I think a threaded extension tube could work here, but it's not as simple as a 10mm threaded cover with lens and a lock ring.
    Yes, the Y-cable has 2 wire at the power input side, 4 cores at the switch and lighthead ends.

    Actually the longer cover with lens can't be done on a small scale. A metal extension tube can be made in small quantity.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike View Post
    Yes, the Y-cable has 2 wire at the power input side, 4 cores at the switch and lighthead ends.

    Actually the longer cover with lens can't be done on a small scale. A metal extension tube can be made in small quantity.
    Wish I knew that about the wire before I started the build!
    What is the diameter of the 4-core wire at the lighthead end? I have some nice threaded cable glands that might work for a future build with remote switch. That way the optic can go in the deep end, and the switch/power wire can go through the gland which can be tightened up once the back is screwed in.

    I would be interested in an extension tube too.

  22. #22
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    Vanc & zemike,

    Most of the time when you buy spacers for a stem to get the right height you get a set and use what you need and that removes the issue of overstock of one type of ring.

    May be cost prohibitive but solves the issue for point of sale source...

    I wish I could work out housings like you Vanc and I would be working every extra minute...maybe a bad thing.

    JB
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbflyfshr View Post
    I wish I could work out housings like you Vanc and I would be working every extra minute...maybe a bad thing.
    I have gotten so lazy on builds. I have a 3/4 finished 6 up XPG barlight housing for that I have not touched for 6+ months. Machinery is ready, all parts are on hand, I'll get on it...next week.

  24. #24
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    Nice build. XM-Ls shed so much light!

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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike View Post
    The link doesn't work anymore.
    When you think that life is though, keep a positive attitude : remember that it is short ;-)

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