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  1. #1
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    Easy2led.com DIY light bodies.

    The initial design goal was to make a small housing for Quazzle (lux-rc.com) light engines from a solid block of aluminium. The product evolved into a universal housing which can be used with Quazzle modules or any other LED/optic combo which doesn't exceed 24mm in diameter and 19mm in height (driver compartment - 7.5mm height, e.g. MaxFlex).

    Here is the final result:

    http://www.easy2led.com/

    The kit includes:
    • Lamp body
    • Rear cap - 2mm thick aluminium
    • Front tempered optical glass with water repellent coating
    • M4x10 titanium bolt


    The kit weights 45 grams
    Length - 42mm
    Outside diameter - 35mm

    This topic is open for discussion and suggestions.
    Last edited by zemike; 05-13-2011 at 09:31 PM.
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  2. #2
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    ooh, looks very nice!

    I'm guessing that any holes other than the M4 mount hole need to be drilled by the buyer? How does the rear cap attach to the main body? How do you get the front glass out/ how's it kept in? What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?

    what sort of ball park price are you thinking about, should you sell them?

  3. #3
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    mattthemuppet
    I'm guessing that any holes other than the M4 mount hole need to be drilled by the buyer?
    * there is a 5mm hole for the cable between the "LED" and "driver" compartments, other holes must be made by the buyer

    How does the rear cap attach to the main body?
    How do you get the front glass out/ how's it kept in?
    * the rear cap and the ring with the glass inside are screwed in the body. M25 threads, so the rear cap and the ring are swappable

    What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?
    minimum height - 11.5mm, diameter - 22mm

    what sort of ball park price are you thinking about, should you sell them?
    $25 + shipping
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    mattthemuppet

    What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?
    minimum height - 11.5mm, diameter - 22mm
    Very nice. With the Quazzle module there should be plenty of room as you don't need to squeeze in the separate driver board.

    The driver chamber of 11.5mm sounds like it will be a bit tight between the wiring from the switch and cable gland if using a *flex driver though. Maybe you could sell a different longer end cap with an extension that still fits the threads, if folks are into it?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    mattthemuppet
    I'm guessing that any holes other than the M4 mount hole need to be drilled by the buyer?
    * there is a 5mm hole for the cable between the "LED" and "driver" compartments, other holes must be made by the buyer

    How does the rear cap attach to the main body?
    How do you get the front glass out/ how's it kept in?
    * the rear cap and the ring with the glass inside are screwed in the body. M25 threads, so the rear cap and the ring are swappable

    What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?
    minimum height - 11.5mm, diameter - 22mm

    what sort of ball park price are you thinking about, should you sell them?
    $25 + shipping
    sounds pretty good, nice price too. I agree with Of'roadbent (who has way more experience with tiny builds than I do) that 11.5mm would be tight for a lflex driver - I think they're ~6mm high at least.

  6. #6
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    swap the m4x10 ti bolt with aluminum.
    I WANT TO BUY YOUR MAGICSHINE LIGHTS! Working or not.

  7. #7
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    Is my understanding correct that either of the 2 "chambers", one 11.5mm deep, the other 21.5mm deep can be used either for the driver or the light engine + optic? Looking at the design this seems to be the idea, so that it is possible to run a star with a reflector in the 21.5mm chamber with a small driver in the rear, or a star with a shallow/short lens and a larger driver in the rear.

    I'm very interested in these, I might just snap up 2. Are they available now?

  8. #8
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    Nice work zemike.
    what provisions are there for mounts?

  9. #9
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    Looks like a nice little light housing.

    I have one concern regarding the rear cover attachment method: I assume one will need to screw this cover down with a switch, wire grommet and maybe a stat LED attached and wired to the driver. Won't this require a great deal of care to not twist off all the wires or rip the driver loose?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIYtailight
    Is my understanding correct that either of the 2 "chambers", one 11.5mm deep, the other 21.5mm deep can be used either for the driver or the light engine + optic? Looking at the design this seems to be the idea, so that it is possible to run a star with a reflector in the 21.5mm chamber with a small driver in the rear, or a star with a shallow/short lens and a larger driver in the rear.
    Correct, this was the idea. Basically the 11.5mm is for triples (you have 21mm for the driver and wiring). The 21mm is for a Regina/ other single optics.

    I am working on a waterproof remote switch housing, so there will be no need to place a switch in the light head.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick
    I have one concern regarding the rear cover attachment method: I assume one will need to screw this cover down with a switch, wire grommet and maybe a stat LED attached and wired to the driver. Won't this require a great deal of care to not twist off all the wires or rip the driver loose?
    That is easy to do: first twist the wires in the opposite direction, then screw the cap. Another possibility with a remote switch - place the cable gland in the center of the cap, screw the cap, the wire will rotate freely in the gland, tighten the cable gland.

    Cable entry can also be in the bottom.
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  12. #12
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    Very nice. Also, a surprisingly low price. How much does the unit weigh?

    Thanks
    baker

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Correct, this was the idea. Basically the 11.5mm is for triples (you have 21mm for the driver and wiring). The 21mm is for a Regina/ other single optics.

    I am working on a waterproof remote switch housing, so there will be no need to place a switch in the light head.
    Remote?....you done now said the magic word! Is this set-up to work with typical bar mounts?

  14. #14
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    Wow, this is great deal for the quality of the enclosure. Very nice to have a purpose built enclosure for DIY'ers that does not break the bank.

  15. #15
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    In for one!

    Price is good and even the shipping is quite reasonable. What the heck, I ordered one.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do
    Remote?....you done now said the magic word! Is this set-up to work with typical bar mounts?
    This housing can be used with Cateye mounts

    Well, the remote switch housing will be from Magicshine (but without their PCB)
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  17. #17
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    This is really cool!! I wish we had more offerings like this.

    zemike: What does it weigh?

  18. #18
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    Good stuff.
    I just picked up 2.
    Possibly more in the near future.
    Keep the price where it's at zemike. You'll sell alot more that way.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    Good stuff.
    I just picked up 2.
    Possibly more in the near future.
    Keep the price where it's at zemike. You'll sell alot more that way.
    Ordered 5 in the first day!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by langen
    zemike: What does it weigh?
    I don't have a precise scale. Around 40 grams.
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  21. #21
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    Just ordered one.

    Now to figure out what to put in it.....good thing I have lots of time on my hands after knee surgery.

    Any quick and nasty suggestions for parts?

    Mike

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike E.
    Any quick and nasty suggestions for parts?
    Regarding the mount: a CatEye spacer and braket works fine.
    For the LED + optics - I recommend Lux-rc.com
    For the switch - a remote momentary switch is an excellent choice (APEM).
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  23. #23
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    I have a couple triple XPG's I could use to make it a bar light.
    Also have a couple triple XPE's to make it a helmet mount thrower.
    Will use the maxflex driver.
    Not sure which way I'll go with it yet.
    Could also do a single XML and LFlex.
    Lots of options.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  24. #24
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    Mike-
    Will an L333, optic, glass, and retaining ring fit in the short side? My l333 and optic are 7.9mm. The short side is 11.5mm. Just don't know how much space the retaining ring and glass take up.

    I imagine that is the way you intended the product to be used...

    Thanks
    baker

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by baker
    Mike-
    Will an L333, optic, glass, and retaining ring fit in the short side? My l333 and optic are 7.9mm.
    This is strange. According to the optic drawing (http://www.carclo-optics.com/opticse...ss3_121108.pdf)
    the total height should be 7.5mm

    The short side was designed for Quazzle modules.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    This is strange. According to the optic drawing ([url]
    the total height should be 7.5mm

    The short side was designed for Quazzle modules.
    well, .hmm is certainly within the margin of error with my crappy 12 foot tape measure. :-)
    baker

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    This is strange. According to the optic drawing ([url]
    the total height should be 7.5mm

    The short side was designed for Quazzle modules.
    well, 0.4mm is certainly within the margin of error with my crappy 12 foot tape measure. :-)
    baker

  28. #28
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    I just picked up my 2 bodies yesterday - the size is quite nice

    What would be the best way to waterproof these 100%?
    Put something in the threads maybe? Loctite?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by langen
    What would be the best way to waterproof these 100%?
    Put something in the threads maybe? Loctite?
    Yes, Loctite or other thread locks. But this housing is not for diving
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    This is strange. According to the optic drawing (http://www.carclo-optics.com/opticse...ss3_121108.pdf)
    the total height should be 7.5mm

    The short side was designed for Quazzle modules.
    the total is 7.7, the board thickness is 1.7mm, see the exact dimensions in the datasheet

  31. #31
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    Can one also use appropriate sized o-rings for a seal? I prefer this method to thread lock if possible

  32. #32
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    Thanks, zemike! Ordered on the 14th; got it in the UK this morning (25th).

    A very sweet looking unit...

  33. #33
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    Got the housing today. Looks good.
    Now to figure out whether to stick the switch or cable gland on the back...

    I'm going to see if I can find some Loctite thread sealer, rather than the thread adhesive, so I can disassemble it for upgrades. Has anyone tried this yet?

    Kinda expensive to order online for a trial.

    Edit- found a small packet on eBay
    Thread Sealant Packet | eBay

    but still waiting to hear if anyone's got experience with the stuff as far as disassembly goes.
    Last edited by Ofroad'bent; 09-09-2011 at 05:15 AM.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Edit- found a small packet on eBay
    Thread Sealant Packet | eBay

    but still waiting to hear if anyone's got experience with the stuff as far as disassembly goes.
    The maintenance guys at work use that exact brand sealant in your ebay link. It is a non-drying whitish "paste". They use it on water and compressed air piping systems. It does come apart easily. You should be able to find it or a similar product at any good plumbing supply.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    The maintenance guys at work use that exact brand sealant in your ebay link. It is a non-drying whitish "paste". They use it on water and compressed air piping systems. It does come apart easily. You should be able to find it or a similar product at any good plumbing supply.
    Great! I'll see what the shipping is on eBay.
    I do have silicone thread lube, which I'll use in the meantime on the lens threads.

    Incidentally, I found that an O-ring fits around the back cap just fine, so it's waterproof.
    I've already finished the build, except for the mount.

    I used an XM-L, XM-L optic and L-flex. Waterproof switch on the back cap, cable gland exiting behind the screw.

    It went together fast. Pics coming soon.

  36. #36
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    Looking forward to the pics and some ride reports. My second housing is still sitting around waiting to be built.
    baker

  37. #37
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    Hello all

    New here but have been reading the threads and there are some very interesting topics.

    I hope I can contribute a little.

  38. #38
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    I purchased 4 of these housings and they are very good, I am running 2 with luxion tri star's Cree XP G engine and an external BuckPuck 1Amp reg. One has the elliptical Carlco and the other a Carlco spot. The light given off is very suitable the the riding I do with a wide spill and a good throw.

    The only problem I have is that you cannot attach anything to the back plate as you have to screw it in, it would be better to have a 2 piece housing with an O ring and 3 set screws holding it together. The last 2 housing I am going to attach to a machined bridging box to connect the 2 housing and contain the Reg and the switching etc a bit like a grown up AY-UP.

  39. #39
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    you can attach something to the centre of the back plate if you're careful, especially if you're using an o-ring which reduces the no. of turns needed to seal it. I put a cable gland and power cable in the centre, twisted the wires counterclockwise before tightening the gland down and left a couple cm of slack. I tested it out a couple of times and the wires were fine, plus it's been in use for a month or so without problems.

  40. #40
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    You can also run a switch through the back plate. If you use silicone wire and pre-twist it one turn, and use an o-ring as above, it threads in well.
    You then need to run the power in through the side or bottom with a cable gland.
    I'm just waiting for an XM-L to see if I can get the switch and driver in the shallow end, and a decent optic or reflector in the deeper end.

    Zemike has mentioned he's coming up with an extension tube too.

  41. #41
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    I have one of these bodies on the way. I was planning on using a gland from one of the magicshine "coke can" batteries and cutting a y-cable for the connector, then using a digikey switch mounted on the back for turning it on/off/up/down. It wouldn't even matter if a little moisture got into the back as the wires will be running into the front via a tinsy little hole that I plan to seal with a little silicone. Am I way off base?

    BTW, I just tracked my delivery and it left California 4 days ago. I'd be suprised if it didn't arrive today
    "It looks flexy"

  42. #42
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    I think you're pretty much there. One thing is don't use the Y-cables for connectors, the wires are crazy thin. Just buy a 1m MS extension cable and cut that down instead.

    What driver/LED/optic are you going to use? That would help with narrowing down the rest more easily

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    I think you're pretty much there. One thing is don't use the Y-cables for connectors, the wires are crazy thin. Just buy a 1m MS extension cable and cut that down instead.

    What driver/LED/optic are you going to use? That would help with narrowing down the rest more easily
    I have an L332, Carlco narrow optic (and a narrow frosted). I also have an extension that I could hack up if needed.
    "It looks flexy"

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    I have an L332, Carlco narrow optic (and a narrow frosted). I also have an extension that I could hack up if needed.
    wow, you're golden in that case. That will make it just about the simplest build you can do

    I have some vague unspecified memories of someone having a 4 core power cable and remote (might be Zemike, I know he had a MS remote for ~$10 plus p+p). That way all you'd need to do is drill one hole in the back plate and add a cable gland of some sort.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    wow, you're golden in that case. That will make it just about the simplest build you can do

    I have some vague unspecified memories of someone having a 4 core power cable and remote (might be Zemike, I know he had a MS remote for ~$10 plus p+p). That way all you'd need to do is drill one hole in the back plate and add a cable gland of some sort.
    I'm really not very interested in a remote switch. They sound nice, but like a hassle....
    "It looks flexy"

  46. #46
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    hmm, I think that they're awesome, especially for a bar light. Lift thumb, move thumb, change light level. They're slightly less useful on the helmet, but a remote velcroed to the side of your helmet is a lot easier to find quickly than a switch on a light on the top (especially if your mount isn't indexed and pressing the switch moves the light). Plus it makes builds like this a lot easier.

    Each to their own though

  47. #47
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    A remote switch is much better than a switch on the light. Right now I have 2 remote switches on the handlebars.
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  48. #48
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    I do have some Cateye switches if those would work. I saw that super minimalist body someone machined up and they used the 4-strand mic wire (or something...) and a cateye switch so I picked a few up a while back. So. Many. Wires. though.

    Maybe I should have ordered up one with the body but if I recall, they were about as much as the CNC body.

    Also, I plan to test it out first, but does the body really need the fins on it with an L332? I might end up doing a little belt sanding and polish if it runs real cool.

    Edit to add: Thank you to both Matt and Mike for your comments, I appreciate them.
    Last edited by gticlay; 12-13-2011 at 11:04 AM.
    "It looks flexy"

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    I'm really not very interested in a remote switch. They sound nice, but like a hassle....

    I have always used a remote switch with my bar and helmet lights. It is so easy to press it with your thumb and safer because your hands are always on the bars.

    I use a momentary tactile switch inside some heatshrink tube and some 2 core cable. This works really well with the taskled drivers as there is no load involved but am unsure how it would go with the L322 arrangement as I have never used one.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    I have always used a remote switch with my bar and helmet lights. It is so easy to press it with your thumb and safer because your hands are always on the bars.

    I use a momentary tactile switch inside some heatshrink tube and some 2 core cable. This works really well with the taskled drivers as there is no load involved but am unsure how it would go with the L322 arrangement as I have never used one.
    That's how I have my maxflex 7up xpg set up and just tonight my light started going nuts. Totally possessed. It turns out that the small tactile switch either shorted or ??? I'll never know cuz I just ripped it off and tossed it. Yeah, I was a little pissed haha. That cured it and I got home by just touching the bare wires together to change intensify.

    I'm looking for a beefier tactile switch now.

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