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  1. #1
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    DIY LED housing - need your opinion

    The Lux-RC LED modules are no longer available in retail, so I'm thinking about a new housing design and I need your opinion on the future LED housing. Please respond to this short survey: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...aElCaDJpTUE6MQ

    The old 20mm housing are still available but they will be superceded by something more versatile.
    CNC LED light housing for DIY projects

  2. #2
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    I couldn't open that link unfortunately, but the withdrawal of the Lux-RC modules from the market doesn't mean people aren't still building lights with 20mm triples. Triple parallel 20mm stars aren't terribly hard to find or make and an lflex or AMC7135 driver fits easily in the other compartment.

    I think that they're excellent little housings, with the only criticisms I can think of being the difficulty in fitting a switch and driver in the short end (fixed with your extended caps) and where to run a remote from if using a Taskled driver. Other than that, I'm really struggling to think of any improvements. More surface area would always be nice but not if that would make the housing heavier as it's a good weight for a helmet light.

  3. #3
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    I love your housings, and have made many lights with them.
    Improvements- the deep end could be slightly shallower, and the shallow end deeper to allow room for driver and switch.
    I think a flat surface opposite the one that has the mounting screw could be helpful if builders want to use a separate power cable and a switch in the back cap, as I usually do.

    I think some of the limitations to using the housing are more related to sourcing the accessories.

    I know your original intention was to use a cable gland in the back cap to allow threading on. I have only made a couple this way as a small stainless cable gland is hard to find, as is a nice waterproof momentary remote switch. It does make for a very easy and clean build. I'll post full pics of a build I'm doing now once I get my l-flex.

    If you sold an appropriate cable gland on your store it would be easier.
    Your momentary switches are nice but nearly impossible to solder. A remote momentary switch with waterproof housing and wires that can be soldered would be very helpful.

    Using thin wires an M8 gland works well. With thicker wires an M10 stainless cable glad would be ideal. Both of these can be hard to find, and the big M12 nylon ones look ridiculous in a small housing.

    I also think the Magicshine-type holders may be nice for handlebars but for helmet lights they are massive and overkill for a nice compact housing. I always use something more compact. The Cateye ones Matt likes are nice, small and cheap, but hard to source.

    Having these items in one place would make for a much easier build.

    Again- I've voted with Paypal- I have 4 in-house and have built many more for friends.

  4. #4
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    Not sure if this suggestion is practical or not, but how about putting small angle on the flat mounting surface so the light can sit lower on the front of a helmet, like Vancbiker's do?

  5. #5
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    ditto what's been said - more room in the shallow end, and a little less in the front. Just enough for a star and a regina. what about making the "pill" a very close tolerance fit(or threaded)? The emitter and driver could be bonded outside of the housing's outer shell, and then inserted into the shell. there would be a concern with locating the mounting bolt - but, I'm typing as I think out loud here.

    I've got 2 spare 20mm housings waiting for me to build something around them.

  6. #6
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    I would order one in a second if it fit a B-flex, and will very likely order a few for an automotive project.

  7. #7
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    Isn't that what the bigger housing is for?

  8. #8
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    @bikerjay - yeah I left that off mine. If the housing could squeeze in a 22mm driver instead of just a 17mm, it would be a lot more versatile to avoid having to run parallel triples, and for those that simply want to run more common 2s-5s packs that they may already have with a single emitter.

  9. #9
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    Night Lightning made their lights with the light housing at one end, and a driver/switch module that screwed into it. Would this allow different drivers without making the housing a monster?

  10. #10
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    I love both your housings - the big one and the small one. If you would like to offer something different, I would go for dual housing to use as helmet light. With one or two optics with a diameter up to 30 mm, the throw of the light would be much better, than all you can get with triple optics in your existing little housing.

  11. #11
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    One thing missing from the small housing was waterproofing of the front and rear covers. The rear cover I was able to seal with an appropriate sized o-ring but the front is a bit challenging because the glass screws down inside the housing so there is really no where to put an o-ring. I realize you could use RTV silicone seal or the like but this tends to be messy and makes future dis-assembly difficult.

  12. #12
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    I thought so too until I saw that Loctite makes waterproof high temperature thread sealant. It's more like a grease, so it can be disassembled easily.

  13. #13
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    Thanks for your feedback.
    I think that thenew 20mm housing will be closer in design to the 35mm version.
    + waterproof
    + variable compartment height
    + non-rotating caps/rings

    - b3flex
    - dual housings (there are other more interesting ideas)

    I'll also check the M8 cable glands and try to add them to the inventory.
    CNC LED light housing for DIY projects

  14. #14
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    how big is the b3flex again? I wonder if you're making the housing larger to fit that, if it would be large enough to fit a 28.6mm (or 26.8mm?) optic, like the Carclo ones? I had a play with one and thought it would make a lovely single LED helmet light. It would somewhat limit optic selection though, unless people were happy with a slightly goofy looking 20mm optic in a 25mm+ hole (or offer a plastic reducer?)

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