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  1. #1
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    DIY Dinotte Style

    I used some parts from Lowes to create a Dinotte style 200L.

    1. Hollow 1" Aluminum round tube. Not 3/4" like the picture shows.
    2. Nibco 3/4" brass plug
    3. Bar end plug from Cinelli handlebar tape

    I AA'd a Cree LED to the brass plug and then AA'd the brass plug to the inside of the Aluminum tube. When the Arctic Alumina (AA) dried, I used some black RTV to seal the front lens and the tail plug. The handle bar plug end fits perfect inside the brass Nebco fitting.

    I can't wait to try it out!
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    Last edited by p97z; 01-05-2008 at 12:09 PM.

  2. #2
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    Nice. Very clean looking finished product.
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  3. #3
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    Very cool looking light!

    I have a few questions if you don't mind.
    What driver and battery are you using?
    Seeing that it's only 3.7volts you could probably power this thing with some fairly cheap batteries.

    Another question, where did you get that "rubberband" to hold the light to your bars? I was thinking maybe one of those old vacuum cleaner belts or something.

    Did you have to file down the end of that copper slug to get it to fit inside the housing? In the interest of saving weight you could probably cut that thing in half and still have plenty of surface area for heat dissipation.
    09 Giant Anthem X3
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  4. #4
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    rubber band

    any big hardware store will have a large selection

    its an o-ring. there are many many sizes metric and US..

  5. #5
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    I'm using a buck/boost converter from Sandwich Shoppe.
    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=961

    I'm using a spare o-ring from my Dinotte and 4 AA batteries for power. I did have to file down the end of the copper slug. It's a tight fit so it works out perfect.

    If i make it any smaller then I don't think it will fit well on the bars. It's a little shorter then my 200L. My 200L doesn't move at all while riding so I hope this DYI setup is the same.

  6. #6
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    I'm interested in that copper plug. Is that the heatsink? Where did you get it? If that is solid copper I could push a K2 to the 1500mA they say it will do. Does everything size good for a good fit inside that tube you're using?

  7. #7
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    What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA?
    The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.
    09 Giant Anthem X3
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  8. #8
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    Here's a poor diagram showing how it fits together. It's a tight fit! The copper plug is hollow so the driver fits inside. The diameter of the housing is the same size as the bar end plug.
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  9. #9
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    I've been looking for a compact design for a single Lux III tail light and this would work great! A couple of questions:

    1. What optic did you use?
    2. Did you use a star?

  10. #10
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    I'm going to make a tail light next. This came out better then I expected.

    1. I used a Cree 8 degree 20mm optic. Any of the 20mm or smaller optics will fit perfect.
    2. I used a Cree LED mounted on a star. The star fits perfect without any filing.

  11. #11
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    p97z,

    Very nice! That has got to be one of the simplest and most effective led DIY's I have ever come across. Thanks for posting so much info.

  12. #12
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    I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

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    Thanks jims!

    I'm making another one and this time i'll post more pictures.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockymtnway
    I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...
    Not enough mass and surface to accomodate 3 LEDs at higher currents.
    Need optics for DIY bike lights?

  15. #15
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    The Shark driver can be altered to push up to 2 amps. Heatsinking is the issue. Read in the Candlepower forums.

  16. #16
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    1. Cut the hollow Aluminum tube to 2 inches.
    2. The copper plug is a little too big to fit in the aluminum. Use a rough file or a Dremel to remove the outer lip.
    3. The Aluminum housing needs a way to sit on the handle bars. Cut a round grove in the bottom using a round file or a Dremel with a round sanding attachment. Align the grove so the housing is centered. For over sized bars you may need to make the grove larger.
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    Last edited by p97z; 12-29-2007 at 11:46 AM.

  17. #17
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    4. Put two small groves in the top of the aluminum housing using a small round file. This will keep the rubber mounting o-ring from slipping.
    5. Sand the housing using some fine sand paper. You can polish it if you want.
    6. Align the LED in the center of the copper plug. I'm using a Seoul with an L2 optic. It's easier to use a star because you only have to drill one hole.
    7. Epoxy (Arctic Alumina) the LED to the copper plug. I also use silicone RTV to keep the wires from shorting against the copper plug.
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  18. #18
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    8. Secure the optic holder to the copper plug. I let a little dry on the sides of the holder to make a snug fit. The L2 optics are a little smaller then the housing.
    9. Mix some AA adhesive and apply a thin coat to the copper slug. Slide the copper plug in the aluminum housing and let dry. Leave enough room at the front to allow a bead of silicone.
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  19. #19
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    10. Wire your favorite driver and insert the bar plug.
    11. Put some silicone on the front lens and your done.
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  20. #20
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    Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!

  21. #21
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    Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper?? Where you put the constant current circuit??

    Great job.

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  22. #22
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    SWEET!!! I need to go to HomeDepot ASAP!

    Long Live Long Rides

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by msxtr
    Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper?? Where you put the constant current circuit??
    No! The LED leads are not on the copper... I soldered wires to them then used silicone to keep them from shorting on the copper. The circuit is right in front of the zip tie. I use the zip to as a strain relief just in case the battery wire gets pulled.
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  24. #24
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    Eat that Niterider. You're probably going to get more light out of your home-build than those Niterider MiNewt lights if you drive the leds right. Good job fella.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn-dave
    Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!
    Now there's an idea!

  26. #26
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    It's amazing what a Dremel and some aluminum polish can do! I can almost see myself in the reflection!
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  27. #27
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    That look great, from two meter away, you can't tell if that is really dinotte or not. great info.....thanx

  28. #28
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    Thanks! Now, if I could only drill some holes in the top...

  29. #29
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    I love the light. A few questions. Where did you purchase the cree optic from? Do you have an on/off switch for the light? Also, since I'm not an electrical engineer, how is the power connected to the buck/boost? Where does the + and - lead connect? Sorry for the dumb questions.

  30. #30
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    I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on enough parts to build a few of these for me and a friend. I think I've got it figured out. I'm going with Cree stars and 800ma drivers from Dealextreme.

    I'm looking at the Following parts for Optics and Holders. I'm having problems figuring out what optic and holder goes with what LED. Are these correct for this project? Should I go with 15 or 5 degree optics? I'm thinking I'll run two on the bar, one of each.

    Luxeon III or V Star Optic Holder
    20 mm 5 Degree Optic
    20 mm 15 Degree Optic

    I'm planning on adding a switch on the back and use my current 6V battery for them.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  31. #31
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    If I can build this then anybody can... there is no such thing as a dumb question to me!

    I got the optic from a group buy on CPF but you can get the same one here.

    http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=1488

    It's a little bigger than the aluminum housing so you'll need to sand the edges to make it fit. It makes a great spot beam with little side spill. It would make a great helmet light. On the bars i like a spot with a flood.

    I've played with optics and my preference is 1 CREE with the 8 degree optic and 2 Seoul with 15 degree L2 optics. I have only done a short ride with the two lights i just built and the spot flood combo is great!

    For converter boards I used the Buck/Boost @ 1 amp from Sandwich shop.

    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=961

    I tested runtime using 2 Duracell 2650mAh AA NiMH batteries and the ran one hour and 40 mins of "useable" light. You could get some long runtime with this battery.
    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=1143

    For the switch... i put it in the power cord. There is enough room to put a switch in the light but I didn't have a small one handy. At some point I will probably pull the bar plug out and add one.

  32. #32
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    No! You can't use the Cree led's with the L2 optics! You need to use Seoul stars with the L2
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

    I don't see the Cree 8 degree optic that I used at DealExtreme...

    So you plan on running four of them? If so, you may want three with the 15 degrees and one with the 5 degree. The nice thing about making these lights is that you can pop out the optic and see which combo you like.

    If you stick with the Seoul LED's and the L2 optics i think you'll be happy.
    Last edited by p97z; 12-30-2007 at 08:35 PM.

  33. #33
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    I'm confuzzled trying to figure out which optics and holders go with which LEDs. Is there a place on the web that explains which one goes with which? If the Seoul Use L2, which ones do the Cree's use? I thought it was the L3.

    Thanks for the help in answering my stupid questions. I was hoping to get everything from dealextreme but it looks like they are out. I'd consider going with either Seoul or Cree if I could get the optics and drivers to match from dealextreme.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  34. #34
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    Cree takes a special optic designed for the Cree led. Seoul came out after cree and claimed to be a Luxeon replacement. I've been happy with the L2 and Seoul's.

    One of the hardest things about building your own light is finding where to get the components. It's hard to find one place that sells everything you need.

    http://www.kaidomain.com has some good stuff also. I see he has some multi mode drivers that you could play with.

  35. #35
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    Probably the best place on the web to get the information is through Candle Power Forums.

    www.candlepowerforums.com

    I found the optics I like through trial and error... and lots of error!

  36. #36
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    Is this the optic you used? KaiDoman has them 10 for 9.99

    8 Degree Optic

    If this is it then I'll get the Q5 Stars and drivers from dealextreme and the optics from Kai and I should be good to go. Thanks for all of the help with this.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  37. #37
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    That's the right optic for the Cree but it doesn't have much flood. I think you'll want to mix that 8 degree with a Seoul and a 15 Degree L2.

    Do you have any Arctic Alumina epoxy? If not get it from here http://www.ledsupply.com/asta-7g.php and get a few L2 15 degree optics with holders.

  38. #38
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    I'm going to get the epoxy which I new about. When you keep mentioning L2 Optics I don't see them at LED supply. I see Luxeon K2 on this page is that it. Do you have a link to the correct optics? I'm trying to go cheap and can't find a nice simple cross reference for optics and LED's.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  39. #39
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    Oh... Sorry, I wasn't clear. The optics for all the Luxeon LED's are the same. The optic snaps into the holder. The holder is different for each Lux.

    You posted the correct links above.
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php is for the wide beam.
    and the Lux III holder
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

    You can use them with the Seoul.

    Edit: They mention at www.ledsupply.com that they are called L2... I can't seem to find it though.

  40. #40
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    Thanks, in that case I think I'll go all Seoul to save a few bucks. Thanks for all of the help.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  41. #41
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    I agree... I think you'll be happier with the Seoul over the Cree.

  42. #42
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    problem with seoul from dealextreme is that they are not white in color like their Q5 are. even though they say it's color bin: SW0 - pure white), but it's not. I'm waiting on a order from Kaidomain to see if they are pure white.
    remember the 800ma $1.50 driver are driven at 1000ma at even 6v to one led, so you will likely have heat issues, unless you live in a cold climate and moving. do some indoor fan test for full 10 hours before you go out. unless you like to bike in the dark.
    also http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=1603 for q5 are very narrow bright spot.

  43. #43
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    I know about the higher drive current for the driver. I'm going to give these a try, if I have heat/durability issues I'll go for another lower power driver. I'm usually moving for my rides and I'm going to take me chances.

    I've ordered the Seouls, drivers and optics. I'm now in waiting mode to receive the parts.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  44. #44
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    have fun waiting, usually it's 3-4 week for stuff from dealextreme and kaidomain, here is what happen when you have overheating. it doesn't have overheat protection. it just go pop, light out and you smell the resister burning inside the housing.

  45. #45
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    I've dealt with Dealextreme for a couple of years and I know how long it will take. And if Achesalot is running the Seouls at 1000ma in his lights without a problem I don't think it will be a problem for me!
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  46. #46
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    One nice thing about having multiple lights with separate drivers. If one goes out, there are a couple more lit. Where I ride the temperature is around freezing. I don't have any problems overheating.

  47. #47
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    Same here, It's cold on my night rides and I'm always moving. And your design has a good bit of thermal mass with both the aluminum and brass fittings. If it looks like they are too hot in testing I'll add an R/C car Heatsink to them. I doubt that will be a problem.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  48. #48
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    I have to dissagree with the Seoul's being better than the Cree's. I have three tripple systems that I run at 1000mA, one Seouls, one Crees, and one Luxeon K2s. The Crees put out the most light and a fairly white light. The K2s don't seem to be as bright but I like the color, and the Seouls start out with a white simular to an HID but quickly loose intensity and give a really bluish tint. The Cree's seem to need a stronger battery too. I can run the Seouls and K2s with an 11.1v pack but not the Crees. I need the 14.8v pack to run it. They all use the bFlex driver. Maybe if I get some time tonight I'll take some beam shots and post them.

  49. #49
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    I agree with mofoki on the led. SSC lost their color or not as white as Q5. the good thing about SSC u-bin is that their color stay the same "off white" for the 3 hour test I've ben doing. and they are half the price of Q5. Q5 stays white, I guess you get what you pay for. Where is Cree made at. SSC are made in Korea, right? lens for SSC are $1.75 from ledsupply. good optic for Q5 cost $3 plus expensive shipping from led-spot.com. anyone get optics cheaper? looking to build the cheapest, brightest 3 hour light with minimum work on housing under $80 with battery/charger.

  50. #50
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    I've had hit and miss luck with the Souls. With the Cree's however I haven't had good luck with optics.

  51. #51
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    Here's a start. You can add or subtract components from the list below.

    Seoul LED $6.00
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
    Holder + Optic $2.00
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
    Optic
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php

    Driver $21.50
    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=961{1}2{2}2{7}5
    Battery $19.99
    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=1143
    Charger $22.95
    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=478
    Coupon for 20% off all-battery
    http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho....php?p=2102809
    Adhesive $6.80
    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=171
    Copper Slug $3.50
    Aluminum 4 Foot $9.99

    Total (-wire and connector) $92.74
    You'll get well over 3 hrs runtime.

    If you use AA batteries it would be cheaper.

  52. #52
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    I'm going cheapo on my system. By using this controller as well as Seouls Mine should cost less than 25 bucks each not including battery. The controllers are basic no level units but I never use low or medium on my dinotte. I went Seoul because they are cheaper as well. I'm using my existing 6V battery or you could use a AA battery pack for cheap. This is an untested design but it looks like it will work.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  53. #53
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    I did a run time test using both lights and 4 AA batteries for each light. Duracell 2650mAh NiMH AA batteries. Both lights held strong for 2 hours and 30 minutes. The light slowly dropped off but was still going at 2 hours and 50 minutes. I kept a box fan on them and they never got hot...

  54. #54
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    I went to Lowes today and got the 3/4" plug (Nibco 616) like in your picture and also the tubing. However, I'm pretty sure that the tubing that you are using is not the 3/4" that you showed in your photo but is actually 1" aluminum tubing. The O.D. of the 3/4" plug is 7/8" and the O.D. of the 1" tube is 1.00" with an I.D. of just over 7/8". See pictures of the tubing that I got. Am I right?

    I'm going to start by building several tail lights. I ordered red-orange Lux III and 5x20 degree oval optics from LED supply. I ordered this cheap driver from kaidomain. I'm going to run it off of 3 niNH AA cells. Other than that, I'm going to build it exactly like you.

  55. #55
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    D'oh!! Here's the photos:

    1" Aluminum Tube (Steelworks #11405)
    IMG_0623.jpg

    3/4" (Nibco #616) Plug inserted into 1" Aluminum Tube (Steelworks #11405). Nice fit with just enough room for AA
    IMG_0627.jpg

  56. #56
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    I'm going a similar route with a cheap driver from Dealextreme. I haven't been to lowes yet. I'll be sure to measure the parts when I go pick them up. I don't think I'll do any hacking on the metal until everything arrives to make sure everything will fit.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I've had hit and miss luck with the Souls. With the Cree's however I haven't had good luck with optics.

    Have you tried Carclo Lens for the Cree's?

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut688

  58. #58
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    I ordered some of those optics but never got them... After a month and a half I canceled the order. I used some Carclo's with Seoul and I liked the L2 a little better. With K2's and Lux V's the Carclo's were awesome!

  59. #59
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    Strange... They are both exactly the same from what I can tell. The Lowes near me had both of them. The only difference I can tell is that one is 3 feet long and the other is 8 feet. Maybe one is labeled wrong? It looks like either will work.

  60. #60
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    This is the cleanest DIY housing style yet. Would it be possible to skip the optics, put the LED's right on the copper plug, and run 3 of them as a flood? I have a killer spot light right now and need a bar flood. Can you run multiple LED's off one driver?

  61. #61
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    Thanks thebronze!

    You could make a light without the optic if you want but the 15 degree makes a great flood. http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php Two of them are great!

    You would also want to put something in front to protect the LED.

    If you want to run more then one LED then it's up to the driver. The sandwich shop has a shark driver or taskled.com has a multi driver. You'll have to check the specs to see which ones can be used.
    Last edited by p97z; 01-02-2008 at 04:39 PM.

  62. #62
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    Does anybody have any beam shots yet? I am wondering what to do for a handlebar light and this is looking like it would be simple enough for me to build!

  63. #63
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    Without a lens, I think thebronze will be pretty disappointed with the light produced. Think about a 40w light bulb in a chandelier and how little light it really gives off. In that case you've got roughly 600 lumens and it barely lights up a room because the light is going in all directions (360 degrees). With the Cree and Seoul LEDs, you have less than half that light per LED, and it comes out of the LED at 160-180 degrees. The reason LEDs appear so bright is because good optics concentrate that light into 10-25 degrees, where you need it. One LED with no optic is only putting 1/10th the light directly in front of you as the same LED with a 15 degree optic. The rest is lost ot lighting up your front tire and outer space.
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  64. #64
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    What about adding 2-3 of those RC car motor heatsinks to the outside?



    Just a thought. Sure, you lose some of the simplicity of the design and sleekness, but it dramatically increases the surface area.
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  65. #65
    ballbuster
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    This is great!

    Quote Originally Posted by rockymtnway
    Nice. Very clean looking finished product.
    I recently bought a bunch of these to keep around the house and in the car:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93712



    They're cheap, and run forever on a set of batteries.

    THe whole thing is machined alu, and screws together... each piece. The LED array is all based on about a 20mm form factor, like the LED elements y'all are using.

    I'm thinking of ordering up some parts, optics, driver board... drilling some holes, AA Epoxy a copper slug behind the LED board. Run it all off my 4AH 6v NiteRider Headtrip battery. I'm thinking it can look pretty pro, and without spending crazy amounts of dough to do it. Zip a couple of round grooves in there for a rubber band type bar mount, or maybe drill and tap a screw mount for my NR Headtrip mount.

  66. #66
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    Here are some beam shots... Sorry, they were taken against a light blue wall.

    On the left is a Cree with 8 degree optics. Middle is a Dinotte. Right is 15 degree L2.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    1. Cree 8 degree.
    2. Seoul L2 15 Degree
    3. Dinotte
    4. Seoul 5 Degree L2
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    Last edited by p97z; 01-02-2008 at 05:24 PM.

  68. #68
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    Wowza! I'm really looking forward to getting mine built. They look better than the Dinottes IMHO!
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

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    VaughnA, You'll be glad you went with Seoul and the L2 optics...

  70. #70
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    A comment or two and a question:
    First, great light, great design and great step by step.

    Beaten to death in this thread, but that driver you used is on the pricey side for my budget on a single LED light. I have had good luck with this one from Dealextreme. I got 3-4 hours on high with three new 2600mah AA nimh's. at 72 degrees inside with no moving air it got pretty warm, but in front of the heat vent with moving air it stayed cool as can be. Outside it was ice cold.

    My question is how do you keep the driver exposed wiring/components from touching the housing? I put a bead of silicone on mine in a few places and covered the + totally, but on my taillight, I had it stop working the other day, pulled the wiring out of the housing and it started working again. There were no broken wires. I wonder if I should just cover the whole driver in clear silicone?

  71. #71
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    Electrical tape, heatshrink tubing or liquid electrical tape.

  72. #72
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    mjzraz,

    I think the trick for intermittent problems is to keep the power wire from moving. I've had problems with another light where the power wire would rotate or move inside the housing and cause problems. I put a nice gob of silicone on the driver and the wire where it goes into the body. I also add a zip tie to the inside power cable which acts as a strain relief and gives the silicone something bond to. Basically I silicone everything...

    Thanks for the tip on the driver. I had a bunch of stuff laying around from some projects I did last year. The only thing I purchased for this project was the aluminum bar and copper plugs. I just bought some more stuff from deal extreme so I could make a couple more of these.

  73. #73
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    Very Classy and professional light. I love it.

  74. #74
    btc
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    p97z,
    Great job ! very nice & clean look to the light. Thank you for sharing.

    Some questions before I built one for the bike. I'm going to use this light as a tail light.

    1- Do you have a picture of the switch (light - switch - battery) & where did you buy the switch?
    2- Do they make a bright RED led for tail light? If not I can use a red len in front of the light.
    3- Is a 15 degree len a good angle for a tail light ?
    4- I see that you have posted 3-4 different web site to order parts from. Is there one site that I can order all the parts to save on the shipping ?

    Thanks!

  75. #75
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    Thanks toyota200x and btc!

    1. I'm still looking for the perfect switch so for now I put the switch on the power connector. I'm looking for a push button but having problems finding one small enough.
    2. Yes, they make red LED's. I just ordered a Red Cree from here. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1776
    3. I think an L2 15 degree would make a great angle for a tail light. You could use a Red Luxeon.
    4. As far as I know there isn't just one site to get everything from.

    Here's some pictures of the power connectors and switch. I don't like the stitch on the cord... it's hard to find and doesn't work well with gloves.
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  76. #76
    btc
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    p97z,

    You are using 4AA battery that = 6v. I forgot to mention, I'm planning to use my existing Li-ion 7.2V 5.5ah rechargable battery. Is this too much volt for the driver or circuit to the LED ?

  77. #77
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    btc, It depends on the driver circuit. Which driver circuit are you going to use?

  78. #78
    btc
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    p97z, I'm looking at these SOB series on the bottom of this page (see link below). It have a max volt input up to 16v, so my 7.2v battery should be OK for this? this is getting too technical for me

    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...8_49_61&page=2

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    btc,

    That looks fine. I've got a downboy (the old version of the SOB) in a couple lights. I ran them off of 9.6 V. A 7.2v should work fine!

    Just be careful not to reverse polarity. Make sure you use connectors that can't be plugged in backwards. I learned the hard way. I blew up a downboy ...

  80. #80
    btc
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    p97z, I'm also looking at this one post up by VaughnA, it a better price. See link below.
    I'm going to put a list of all the parts together this weekend.

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

  81. #81
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    I understand that the brightest LED for a tail light is a red orange Luxeon III LXHL-LH3C which is typically 190 lm at 1.4 A http://luxeon.com/products/line.cfm?lineId=2
    You can get it here for $8 http://www.ledsupply.com/lxhl-lh3c.php

    I believe that this is much brighter than any Cree red LED. For example, the Cree XR in red-orange is only 30 to 40 lm and in red is only 18 to 31 lm. http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampLEDcolorBrief.pdf

    I am currently building a Dinotte Style tail light with the Lux III and will report back when it is finished.

  82. #82
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    btc, I ordered some of those drivers also. For the price you can't go wrong.

    smacmillin, Thanks for the tip on red led's. I had a red Lux III and tired to make a sandwich with it. I got frustrated with the sandwich (led with driver board combo) and decided to take it apart. When I took it apart I broke the red LED. In the end I used the driver for this light...

    For a tail light I wanted a flashing mode so ordered some multi mode drivers from here. http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=3151

    btc, you may want to look at that driver also...

  83. #83
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    p97 It's looking like you have another classic design like achesalot and the pond scum project. Thanks for the design. I'm going to have to wait another 2 weeks for my dealextreme stuff, I"m going to go crazy. I'd like to go ahead and work on the housings while waiting for the parts. Do you know how long I'll need to make the aluminum outer when using a star? I'm making 4 units so I'd like to get a head start.

    You Da Man!
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  84. #84
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    VaughnA, Thanks for the compliment!

    Cut the aluminum housing to 2 in = 5.1 cm. Don't glue the copper housing into the aluminum tube though. The depth of the copper slug is what's different for the type of LED (star, non-star, Cree, Seoul, Luxeon, etc). When you file down the lip on the copper slug be careful not to round it off or file too much. If you file too much of the copper slug, it can crack. You have to grind a lot to do it but it's worth mentioning.

    Iím waiting for some parts also so I know how you feelÖ

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popper252
    What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA?
    The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.
    Hi, for my "N5" with 2 luxeon K2 (olds) I use this driver to 1500 ma





    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
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    The Beast!!!

  86. #86
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    smacmillin is right... This is 1 inch round tube not 3/4 like the picture shows. The piece I bought must be marked wrong! Sorry for any confusion.
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    For a tail light I wanted a flashing mode so ordered some multi mode drivers from here. http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=3151

    btc, you may want to look at that driver also...[/QUOTE]

    Question about this and other multi-mode drivers: How do you switch between modes? Is it with a momentary switch on specific contacts on the board? Or is it by switching on and off the power?

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by smacmillin
    Question about this and other multi-mode drivers: How do you switch between modes? Is it with a momentary switch on specific contacts on the board? Or is it by switching on and off the power?
    I think you switch between modes by switching the power on and off. You need to switch the power on and off for no longer then two seconds. I'll let you know for sure when I get one.

  89. #89
    btc
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    p97z, Thanks for verify the tube size, I'm glad I did not buy the tube yet. BTW. Nice measuring tool. I use the cressent wrench and a ruler.

  90. #90
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    p97z

    Great design. Very keen to give it a go. I’ve always liked the simplicity of the Dinotte light and this is much better.

    Only problem I’m in OZ so need to find some local alternatives.

    Our local equiv to Lowes has some 25mm Alum tube but the actual thickness of the wall looks pretty thin compared to yours. This maybe an issue in terms of filing the grooves for the O-Rings and where it sits on the bar – as it looks like you would not have to go too deep to go through the wall. Would it possible for you to measure the thickness of the walls so I can check.

    Any help appreciated.

    Cheers – Richard.

  91. #91
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    You can get those....

    Quote Originally Posted by btc
    p97z, Thanks for verify the tube size, I'm glad I did not buy the tube yet. BTW. Nice measuring tool. I use the cressent wrench and a ruler.
    ... at Harbor freight for like $20... $15 when they are on sale. They rule. I have Hope Mono Mini brakes that use a shim stack to set the alignment. Using a caliper makes that process a one or two try 5 minute process. Before using a caliper, it was more like 15 minutest to half an hour of adding and removing shims.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47256

    Last edited by pimpbot; 01-10-2008 at 11:26 AM.

  92. #92
    ballbuster
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    Interesting...

    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    smacmillin is right... This is 1 inch round tube not 3/4 like the picture shows. The piece I bought must be marked wrong! Sorry for any confusion.
    Pipe size is usually the inside diameter. Fine with me, as long as I know what I'm getting.

    Hit another snag last night. I found another slightly bigger Harbor Freight flashlight I thought would work. It was bigger, but still didn't work.

    I think I should just do the pipe and copper plug thing like you did.

  93. #93
    ballbuster
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    I like this one:

    Quote Originally Posted by rockymtnway
    What about adding 2-3 of those RC car motor heatsinks to the outside?



    Just a thought. Sure, you lose some of the simplicity of the design and sleekness, but it dramatically increases the surface area.
    http://stores.channeladvisor.com/rc-...ms/hi-acc3921?


  94. #94
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    plasticman,

    It's not real thick. You really don't need much to hold the rubber bands in place.
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  95. #95
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    p97z

    thanks. much appreciated. The standrd in Oz for wall thinkness seems to be 1.6mm for both copper and Al pipe so the one I saw should be OK based on your measurement. I just need to find some copper plugs to suit and I'm off. (after I order some stuff from DX and Kaidomain). Thanks for flicking the switch to mm as well. Saved me a conversion !!

    Thanks again - richard.

  96. #96
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    Just been browsing the Dinotte website out of interest, they have some reasonably priced spare parts available, inc a good bar mount for $9 Here

  97. #97
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    TheFunkyMonkey, Good catch! I may use the tail light mount for a red light.

  98. #98
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    Wouldn't have been there without your inspiration p97z!

    The battery kits are pretty good value with charger, battery bag and cables inc too

  99. #99
    ballbuster
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    Nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by TheFunkyMonkey
    Wouldn't have been there without your inspiration p97z!

    The battery kits are pretty good value with charger, battery bag and cables inc too
    ... and here I was gonna fabricate my own helmet mount. I have a NR Headtrip, and a spare mount shoe. I was gonna make a bracket of some sort between them to hold two of these lights.

  100. #100
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    If you are looking for a battery I just bought this...

    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2147

    and this charger...

    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=478

    Enter coupon code: "independence" and get 7% off and free shipping.

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