Results 1 to 29 of 29
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    DIY bar Helmet\Light, have a question

    hello everyone!
    I ride at night for few years now, own a hope led 2 system and i'm very happy with it.
    and an XPG R5 flashlight - its too spot like and not floody enought.
    i would like to bulid a system for bar \ helmet with a wide strong beam (i hate the hotspot pattern beams..)

    what would u recommend?
    1X strong P7 SSC LED with a 1000ma or even 1400 mah

    or a few 2-3 smaller leds like XPG \ XPE leds?
    (saw this idea in troutie's website a bunch of leds in a compact housing with no big reflectors..)

    i would also get your opinions which options will give me a more floody beam pattern and good power (such as led type, reflectors and power circuits as well)
    thanks a lot, sorry 4 the long message!
    Dor.

  2. #2
    recognize the slowness
    Reputation: jbflyfshr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    481
    Some of the recent post should help you find something you can use...

    The housing for P7s usually are larger so I would lean toward the XP series LEDs. That is what I am planning.

    Hope that helps!

    JB
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    You'll require over 2 amps just to get a P7 to do much at all.

    And almost any optic apart from the Regina will give a floody beam with the XPG

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: znomit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,837
    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    You'll require over 2 amps just to get a P7 to do much at all.

    And almost any optic apart from the Regina will give a floody beam with the XPG
    The ledil CXP/LXP optics are approximately equivalent to the regina (you don't get the reflector spill) and may be easier to mount.

    See the ledil range... note they have an XPG iris now at +/- 3 deg (regina is +/-5).

    http://www.ledil.com/index.php?page=xp-g

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    so if i understand correctly -

    it's much more efficient to use few XPG/ XPE's insterad of using one big SSC P7 that will need alot of amps to work with. I will use 3 leds and not one SSC.

    what's u'r reccomends- XPG / XPE? (that's the others i know.. P4 is old and weak no?)
    where can i find the "regina"?

    and last question - what circuits should i use for the 3 XPG/XPE's?
    would like 2-3 power modes max! how much MAH?

    u guys are great!

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    whats u'r favorite regulator for xpg's?

    I want to hook up 3 XPG's , how many regulators and MAh do i need?

  7. #7
    recognize the slowness
    Reputation: jbflyfshr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    481
    I have seen a few use a standard 1000mah buckpuck...depends on your battery choice also.
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  8. #8
    PRETENDURO
    Reputation: Leopold Porkstacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    7,228
    My main homebrew light I like to use has two 3-up XP-Gs, and each 3-up is driven from it’s own 1000mA 3023 Buckpuck. The unit generates some serious heat, as one would expect, and I try to only power it on while the bike is moving.

    But yeah, 1A for each 3-up generates a very generous amount of light.

    QUOTE from MTBR.COM: You have given Brewtality too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.

  9. #9
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,537
    Your single xpg triple with the 1000mA puck would use a 14.8v battery pack. From this you will get quite a few hours of light depending the amp hour rating of the pack.

    One thing to remember is that the beam patterns of the triple xpg using 20mm triple optic will be wider than the same optic with XPE led's which will be narrower. Also I have found that the colour temperature of the XPE's are a bit more yellow and therefore can give better contrast in the bush. However I am unsure if there is a wider range of tints available for the XPG since I last purchased them.

    MY current light used a triple xpg medium optic and a narrow xpe LXP optic. As a single bar light it gives a very usable flood and spot lighting up the trail. If you plan to use a bar and helmet light, put a flood on the bars and a spot on the helmet.

    I found that an xpg triple driven at 700mA didn't look as bright as a XPE triple at 700ma but at 1000mA the XPG was exceptional. Heat wise the xpg seems to run a bit cooler and I can safely run my housing for hours while stationary with no problems.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Leopold Porkstacker
    My main homebrew light I like to use has two 3-up XP-Gs, and each 3-up is driven from itís own 1000mA 3023 Buckpuck. The unit generates some serious heat, as one would expect, and I try to only power it on while the bike is moving.

    But yeah, 1A for each 3-up generates a very generous amount of light.


    Why not just connect the two triples in series and run 1 Buckpuck with a high voltage pack? Power source too large, I assume?

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2,930
    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    Why not just connect the two triples in series and run 1 Buckpuck with a high voltage pack? Power source too large, I assume?
    At the minimum you would need a 6S li-ion though it would fall out of regulation part way through the run. A 7S pack would be needed to remain in regulation for the full run.

  12. #12
    PRETENDURO
    Reputation: Leopold Porkstacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    7,228
    I actually have them set up that way for a fault-tolerance minded approach: if something should fail on one side, I still have light on the other. I am actually running them from a 4400mAh 14.8V Li-Ion pack. The on/off switch powers both Buckpucks simultaneously.
    QUOTE from MTBR.COM: You have given Brewtality too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.

  13. #13
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,537
    Plus given the cheap price of the buckpucks, 1 per led string is no more expensive than running a single bfex or equivalent. and like you said Leopold, you have redundancy if one string fails without compromising battery life.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    moving on - leds!

    ok guys, i think i'll make a 3 led light from a 3.7v X4 cells of 2400mah.
    i'll use high current instead of high voltage which by my understanding is more efficient becasue the buck driver will get exactly what it needs.
    2 questions remain:
    1. should i use 3 differnt regulators (about 750-1000mah each) or 1 big juicy regulator of 2.8mah??
    2. what leds to use?
    i found an XPG R5 20\16 mm with max 1000mah
    or XPE Q5 with max 700 mah
    and last one- a more powerful (so it seems..) XPE Q5 with up to 2A !!

    whats the differences and what would u choose for a handlebar light?

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    For a bar light go with three XPG R5s. Driven at 1 Amp each you can still use a single 1amp buck driver to run all three and each will get the full 1 Amp.

    If you want low battery warnings, thermal protection or flash mode(amonst other features)then use a bFlex.

    If you only want on/off or low/high only then go with a BuckPuck, you can also add a pot to a BuckPuck and a knob for dimming.

    If you only want full power then DealExtreme do very cheap drivers, though I have never used one myself.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    great answer- BUT

    if i use a 1A buck driver for all 3 leds it should devide the 1 amper / 3 = 333 mah per each led no???

    or it depends in the linking method -
    3 paralel leds will get 1A each
    3 series/ straight leds will get 333mah each

    is that correct or i made a fool of my self yet again??

  17. #17
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    No, 3 series wired leds get the full 1A each, three in parallel share the 1A

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115
    so if i wire 3 in series i get 1A per led and 11.1V.. i regulator of 1A should be enought?no?

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Yes..... but the driver will require a volt or 2 on top of the LED voltage so best to use 14.8v battery.

    As you have said a high capacity 11.1v battery could just about do but a 14.8 would be best.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115
    than 14.8 it is! will a buck driver be ok for that?
    i'm looking for a simple 2\3 mode regulator and CHEAP.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    3 x LEDs, a 1amp buckpuck , a risistor of your choice for low, a switch or two and a 14.8v Li-Ion battery and you'll have a simple reliable system.

    It could be done cheaper with a driver from DealExtreme but I can't recomend one as I have not used one myself.

    The first light that I ever made used a BuckPuck and still works today after many years of abuse.

    TaskLed drivers are great but I have to admit that even after many years of soldering and light building, I still blow the odd one up now and then

  22. #22
    PRETENDURO
    Reputation: Leopold Porkstacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    7,228
    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    It could be done cheaper with a driver from DealExtreme but I can't recomend one as I have not used one myself.
    I’ve got a couple each of them for testing/planning purposes. So far, although they can sorta get a bit of current to an LED (nothing greater than 1A so it seems), the flash/strobe mode is sort of seizure-inducing and kinda lame. If you plan on running each power LED off of it’s own controller, the cheap stuff at DealExtreme will be just fine. Try to avoid getting the ones with the “SOS” mode, because it is just a waste of… well, your intelligence.
    QUOTE from MTBR.COM: You have given Brewtality too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    thanks for the tip!

    I actually looked for a buck driver to work with minimum V because i plan to connect 1 driver per led. and everything together in paralel of course - to the battery.
    the battery will be 4 18650 2400mah in paralel also so i stay with in the same work level voltage needed 3.7 or so.. what do u think about my plan??

    i just ordered 3 1000mah drivers with 3-
    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=9900
    or this:
    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=9900
    (cant remember which one ose those 2..
    but they both are singlemode, and using a simple button i will decide how many leds will light.

    and ordered 1 to see what it is..like this:
    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...roductId=10243

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,055
    Quote Originally Posted by gozal
    I actually looked for a buck driver to work with minimum V because i plan to connect 1 driver per led. and everything together in paralel of course - to the battery.
    the battery will be 4 18650 2400mah in paralel also so i stay with in the same work level voltage needed 3.7 or so.. what do u think about my plan??

    i just ordered 3 1000mah drivers with 3-
    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=9900
    or this:
    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=9900
    (cant remember which one ose those 2..
    but they both are singlemode, and using a simple button i will decide how many leds will light.

    and ordered 1 to see what it is..like this:
    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...roductId=10243
    Personally, I would go with a series circuit like others have suggested but since you are thinking otherwise, this what I think...
    I wouldn't use the last driver you mentioned because it has modes. I would go with the simple single mode driver. Keep in mind your build with have to be bigger to house the extra drivers and more drivers mean more heat. If you don't mind using more switches you could use a separate switch for each driver. By turning off some of the drivers you could conserve battery power ( 1 on - low mode, 2 on - midmode..etc )

    If you decide to use the cheap drivers I think it a good idea to buy a couple extra...just in case one dies.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    Cat-man-do -

    I will have plenty of room for the drivers in my build.
    the heat - whats the diffrence if i use 3 drivers with low voltage and high current
    or use driver with hight voltage and low current like most people do?
    I'm trying to see if working in the same 3.7V will be a better efficiency, the drivers shouldn't pick up or handle with lowring the voltage from 14.8 to 3.7..

    the last driver is just in case i'll need to swich to serial connection if my plan wont work, then i'll use this driver alone with my leds.

    when i find a system that will work well for me, i'll buy a better driver with higher quality.
    yet still i couldnt find a reasonable quality driver with low V 3+ - got any ideas for me??
    (doesn't have to be from taskled.)

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    gozal, lack of efficiency is my concern when using more than one driver.

    I could be wrong on this as I have never used a multi driver set up, but if you consider 90% efficiency to be average for a driver, then that means a 10% loss.

    Do that with three drivers instead of one and you have 10% loss X 3.

    In the end you will still be lugging around a four cell pack, be it in parallel for 3.7v or in series for 14.8 v. Same size, same weight.

    I understand that you want to keep the voltage as close to the LEDs vf as possible so there is less work for the driver to do but I would still try and do that with only the one driver.

    Does sound like you have an interesting plan going on though and there is nothing wrong with trying a new approach.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    yetibetty

    thanks for opening my eyed for that. i'll try it anyway BUT
    please - advise me with a driver that will work with 14.8V (4 cell pack) and can push about 1000mah for 3 XPG leds. can be with modes, but not too much.

    and one more Question for u (seems like uunderstand this stuff well :-)
    i see on some of the driver specs besides Voltage and mah - 1/3/5.. Watt. what does it mean? what do i need??
    thanks alot!! dor

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    I have only used bFlexs' and buckpucks and have found them both to be great depending on how many or how little features you want. I did use a maxFlex once but that's another story, it's still going strong but I'm not too keen on boost drivers.

    One piece of good news, as I found out an hour ago doing some tests on my "Long way round light" is that the vf for the lattest XPGs is 3.1v @ 1 Amp (cold)!!!! it then dropped a little further as they warned up.

    If you too are as lucky then you could get away with an 11.1v battery
    Last edited by yetibetty; 06-26-2010 at 06:58 PM.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    115

    no problem there

    if i decide to make a straight connection in the leds - battery will be 14.8..
    just looking for a driver that won't break my wallet :-)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •