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  1. #1
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    Danger! This beast may burn your eyes. Literally!

    The snow is melting here so it's time to setup a new light on my bike.

    Thanks to Matt from CPF for his nice and very well-thought double-triple housing. So this time I'll go an easy way and build a new light from the "almost ready" kit.



    I used two 16 watts XP-G R5 modules which are driven at 1.5A on full. The modules use master-slave interface so one button controls the both. The UI allows switching between 3 predefined levels. It also lets programming the ECO mode which can be smoothly adjusted between 0% and 50% and stored in the memory. I modified the firmware and now the light starts up with standby mode when the battery is connected the first time. As you see I don't use the power switch here. The light is fully managed by the click button.



    The modules are very small so using connectors significantly saves time. The soldering work took about 30 minutes with a coffee break.



    The flip side is very simple. No driver - no extra work. I connected both modules in parallel. Another two wires used for a click-button. You can also see the yellow master-slave link between the modules.



    So the job is done. On this pic the light is running on the lowest level (about 0.2%) which was adjusted by the click button. The ECO programming is very easy, it's done just by one click (guess how?)



    Now it's time to try it on full. The calculated output is about 2800 lumens. I do think it's still about 2500OTF based on the previous measurements of similar modules in a laboratory sphere.

    Rather than taking beamshots I just put a piece of paper on the lens..



    ..and wow, the paper got smoking instantly. This beast is really bright. I had to take it away promptly as it might damage the plastic lenses.

    PS. If you plan to go for Matt's housing (strongly recommend), make sure that you also ordered AR glasses from flashlightlens.com (it needs UCL OD24.7 ones). They're not included by default.
    Last edited by quazzle; 04-09-2011 at 12:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    Thank You for the kind words and mini build up!

    I am in awe of your light modules!

  3. #3
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    Super-clean build with those nice connectors and wires.

  4. #4
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    Any beamshots "not on a wall" of these lights in action?? How does the beam compare to something like a lupine Wilma? I have some tough choices ahead for sure!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bncrshr77
    Any beamshots "not on a wall" of these lights in action?? ..
    I already posted similar single (not double) triples with different CARCLO lenses which I tested in the trees about 2 weeks ago. I have finished with an animated comparison tool, use this link:

    http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/beamshots/

    The double-triple design of Matt's housing allows mixing. For single track I also plan to try the following combo: XP-E R3 cool's at 1.5A with 10507 lens for maximum throw + XP-E HEW R5 + 10507 frosted lens for the most bright flood ahead of bike.

    With those connectors I can replace the modules in minutes without risky soldering. So I'm going to play with them, may be I'll post some combo beamshots too.

  6. #6
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    Quazzle

    What are the connectors that you talk about, and are they available on your site?

    Tim

  7. #7
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    Super, super cool.

    Quazzle, since you said the double/triple was connected in parallel I was just wondering...
    Can the 1.5A versions be connected ( master/slave ) with one of the 1A versions? If so I like the idea of running the triple XP-E narrow @ 1.5A M/S with the triple XP-G narrow @ 1A.

    Now if a way can be found to rig that double/triple housing with a handlebar remote this set-up could make the perfect handlebar set-up.

    Quazzle, once again, thanks for all the triple options and thanks for all the feedback and pics.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do
    Super, super cool.

    Quazzle, since you said the double/triple was connected in parallel I was just wondering...
    Can the 1.5A versions be connected ( master/slave ) with one of the 1A versions? If so I like the idea of running the triple XP-E narrow @ 1.5A M/S with the triple XP-G narrow @ 1A.

    Now if a way can be found to rig that double/triple housing with a handlebar remote this set-up could make the perfect handlebar set-up.

    Quazzle, once again, thanks for all the triple options and thanks for all the feedback and pics.
    It is possible to use a three core cable through the cable gland and use an external momentary switch, I can supply such a cable if you place an order

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat
    Quazzle
    What are the connectors that you talk about, and are they available on your site?
    Tim
    Hi Tim, yes, already added

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do
    Super, super cool.

    Quazzle, since you said the double/triple was connected in parallel I was just wondering...
    Can the 1.5A versions be connected ( master/slave ) with one of the 1A versions? If so I like the idea of running the triple XP-E narrow @ 1.5A M/S with the triple XP-G narrow @ 1A....
    thanks!

    Of course you connect any L333 versions any number in parallel as long as your battery is capable to provide the increased current. The consumed current is always limited at 2.6A per board.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle
    Hi Tim, yes, already added
    Having the connectors pre-wired would make a Quazzle build a piece of cake, and help clear the optics much more easily. I think they'd be well worthwhile.

    These super-flexible wires would make other small builds much easier too.

  12. #12
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    How much area is required to heat sink two of these triples? What is the surface area of this design Matthew?

  13. #13
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    don't see much room to put in a taskled driver in this !?
    so this housing only takes, 20mm LED modules with driver on it ?
    without getting the driver on the housing , the thermal throttle would not work ether.
    maybe a little bit more info on the space, what could be squeezed in be nice.

  14. #14
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    I have one of these housings, and it is actually designed for taskled drivers.
    In the rear cavity there is a machined area just for the driver.
    I used a maxflex in mine with 2 3up XPG R5 boards.
    The thing is stupid bright, and makes a great bar light.
    No need to run it over 1amp IMO.
    Here is the original thread from CPF......

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ost-2200-Lumen

    If you look at the third picture down from the top that Quazzle posted above, you can see the pad that the driver is mounted to.

    This housing is a work of art. Truely amazing, very well thought out and designed. I love mine.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    I have one of these housings, and it is actually designed for taskled drivers.
    In the rear cavity there is a machined area just for the driver.
    I used a maxflex in mine with 2 3up XPG R5 boards.
    The thing is stupid bright, and makes a great bar light.
    No need to run it over 1amp IMO.
    Here is the original thread from CPF......

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ost-2200-Lumen

    If you look at the third picture down from the top that Quazzle posted above, you can see the pad that the driver is mounted to.

    This housing is a work of art. Truely amazing, very well thought out and designed. I love mine.
    Thank You!

  16. #16
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    Quazzle,

    What is the correct input voltage to run this setup. I am about to order the stuff needed but This will be my first attempt using your boards.

    Brad

  18. #18
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    Wow, just looked at your web site and you do some amazing lights.
    Nice work with this one too.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by baexmeyer View Post
    Quazzle,
    What is the correct input voltage to run this setup. I am about to order the stuff needed but This will be my first attempt using your boards.
    Brad
    Hi Brad,

    thanks, all boards operate at voltage range from 3.0V to 9.9V. But the "fully regulated" range (i.e. the range within the output doesn't depend on voltage) depends on the board "power grade":

    A-type (16 watts): fully regulated from 6.0V to 9.9V
    B-type (11 watts): fully regulated from 5.0V to 9.9V
    C-type (7 watts): fully regulated from 3.0V to 9.9V

    so in a nutshell for maximum output we recommend 2 lithium cells for A and B types and 1 or 2 cells for C type.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle View Post
    Hi Brad,

    thanks, all boards operate at voltage range from 3.0V to 9.9V. But the "fully regulated" range (i.e. the range within the output doesn't depend on voltage) depends on the board "power grade":

    A-type (16 watts): fully regulated from 6.0V to 9.9V
    B-type (11 watts): fully regulated from 5.0V to 9.9V
    C-type (7 watts): fully regulated from 3.0V to 9.9V

    so in a nutshell for maximum output we recommend 2 lithium cells for A and B types and 1 or 2 cells for C type.
    So for a type A my 2S lipo 7.4v isnt ideal, as it's ideal to run it down to 5 volts and no lower to avoid damaging the cells from deep discharge? 2.5v per cell?

    Have these boards got battery voltage monitoring yet?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    So for a type A my 2S lipo 7.4v isnt ideal, as it's ideal to run it down to 5 volts and no lower to avoid damaging the cells from deep discharge? 2.5v per cell?
    2S lipo is perfect:
    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle
    so in a nutshell for maximum output we recommend 2 lithium cells for A and B types and 1 or 2 cells for C type.
    Also according to quazzle's website the boards have temperature and low-voltage cutoffs, so no flames.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfj197 View Post
    2S lipo is perfect:


    Also according to quazzle's website the boards have temperature and low-voltage cutoffs, so no flames.
    Any idea what the voltage cut off is for each board? Cant find it on Quazzle's site..and still no datasheet for the 333

  23. #23
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    the low voltage cutoff is still 2.8V (the same as with L332 board).
    The smarter voltage monitoring should be released next month.
    It's also needed in our new FL33 project

    PS.
    Sorry for the absent L333 datasheet. I planned to update it right after the testing of the final variant with enhanced battery and temp monitoring.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle View Post
    the low voltage cutoff is still 2.8V (the same as with L332 board).
    The smarter voltage monitoring should be released next month.
    It's also needed in our new FL33 project

    PS.
    Sorry for the absent L333 datasheet. I planned to update it right after the testing of the final variant with enhanced battery and temp monitoring.
    If its 2.8v then this would surely damage a 2S lipo or 2S lion 7.4v? I thought that low voltage cut of for them was 2.5v per cell?

    It will be fine if your using protected cells..but my lipo isnt..
    Need to find a protection board for it.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    If its 2.8v then this would surely damage a 2S lipo or 2S lion 7.4v? I thought that low voltage cut of for them was 2.5v per cell?

    It will be fine if your using protected cells..but my lipo isnt..
    Need to find a protection board for it.
    True, true. I had assumed it would cut off at 2.8v per cell, i.e. 5.6v on the recommended 2S pack. 2.8v on a 2S would be way too low for safe usage.

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