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  1. #1
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    Danger! This beast may burn your eyes. Literally!

    The snow is melting here so it's time to setup a new light on my bike.

    Thanks to Matt from CPF for his nice and very well-thought double-triple housing. So this time I'll go an easy way and build a new light from the "almost ready" kit.



    I used two 16 watts XP-G R5 modules which are driven at 1.5A on full. The modules use master-slave interface so one button controls the both. The UI allows switching between 3 predefined levels. It also lets programming the ECO mode which can be smoothly adjusted between 0% and 50% and stored in the memory. I modified the firmware and now the light starts up with standby mode when the battery is connected the first time. As you see I don't use the power switch here. The light is fully managed by the click button.



    The modules are very small so using connectors significantly saves time. The soldering work took about 30 minutes with a coffee break.



    The flip side is very simple. No driver - no extra work. I connected both modules in parallel. Another two wires used for a click-button. You can also see the yellow master-slave link between the modules.



    So the job is done. On this pic the light is running on the lowest level (about 0.2%) which was adjusted by the click button. The ECO programming is very easy, it's done just by one click (guess how?)



    Now it's time to try it on full. The calculated output is about 2800 lumens. I do think it's still about 2500OTF based on the previous measurements of similar modules in a laboratory sphere.

    Rather than taking beamshots I just put a piece of paper on the lens..



    ..and wow, the paper got smoking instantly. This beast is really bright. I had to take it away promptly as it might damage the plastic lenses.

    PS. If you plan to go for Matt's housing (strongly recommend), make sure that you also ordered AR glasses from flashlightlens.com (it needs UCL OD24.7 ones). They're not included by default.
    Last edited by quazzle; 04-09-2011 at 12:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    Thank You for the kind words and mini build up!

    I am in awe of your light modules!

  3. #3
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    Super-clean build with those nice connectors and wires.

  4. #4
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    Any beamshots "not on a wall" of these lights in action?? How does the beam compare to something like a lupine Wilma? I have some tough choices ahead for sure!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bncrshr77
    Any beamshots "not on a wall" of these lights in action?? ..
    I already posted similar single (not double) triples with different CARCLO lenses which I tested in the trees about 2 weeks ago. I have finished with an animated comparison tool, use this link:

    http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/beamshots/

    The double-triple design of Matt's housing allows mixing. For single track I also plan to try the following combo: XP-E R3 cool's at 1.5A with 10507 lens for maximum throw + XP-E HEW R5 + 10507 frosted lens for the most bright flood ahead of bike.

    With those connectors I can replace the modules in minutes without risky soldering. So I'm going to play with them, may be I'll post some combo beamshots too.

  6. #6
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    Quazzle

    What are the connectors that you talk about, and are they available on your site?

    Tim

  7. #7
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    Super, super cool.

    Quazzle, since you said the double/triple was connected in parallel I was just wondering...
    Can the 1.5A versions be connected ( master/slave ) with one of the 1A versions? If so I like the idea of running the triple XP-E narrow @ 1.5A M/S with the triple XP-G narrow @ 1A.

    Now if a way can be found to rig that double/triple housing with a handlebar remote this set-up could make the perfect handlebar set-up.

    Quazzle, once again, thanks for all the triple options and thanks for all the feedback and pics.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do
    Super, super cool.

    Quazzle, since you said the double/triple was connected in parallel I was just wondering...
    Can the 1.5A versions be connected ( master/slave ) with one of the 1A versions? If so I like the idea of running the triple XP-E narrow @ 1.5A M/S with the triple XP-G narrow @ 1A.

    Now if a way can be found to rig that double/triple housing with a handlebar remote this set-up could make the perfect handlebar set-up.

    Quazzle, once again, thanks for all the triple options and thanks for all the feedback and pics.
    It is possible to use a three core cable through the cable gland and use an external momentary switch, I can supply such a cable if you place an order

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat
    Quazzle
    What are the connectors that you talk about, and are they available on your site?
    Tim
    Hi Tim, yes, already added

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do
    Super, super cool.

    Quazzle, since you said the double/triple was connected in parallel I was just wondering...
    Can the 1.5A versions be connected ( master/slave ) with one of the 1A versions? If so I like the idea of running the triple XP-E narrow @ 1.5A M/S with the triple XP-G narrow @ 1A....
    thanks!

    Of course you connect any L333 versions any number in parallel as long as your battery is capable to provide the increased current. The consumed current is always limited at 2.6A per board.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle
    Hi Tim, yes, already added
    Having the connectors pre-wired would make a Quazzle build a piece of cake, and help clear the optics much more easily. I think they'd be well worthwhile.

    These super-flexible wires would make other small builds much easier too.

  12. #12
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    How much area is required to heat sink two of these triples? What is the surface area of this design Matthew?

  13. #13
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    don't see much room to put in a taskled driver in this !?
    so this housing only takes, 20mm LED modules with driver on it ?
    without getting the driver on the housing , the thermal throttle would not work ether.
    maybe a little bit more info on the space, what could be squeezed in be nice.

  14. #14
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    I have one of these housings, and it is actually designed for taskled drivers.
    In the rear cavity there is a machined area just for the driver.
    I used a maxflex in mine with 2 3up XPG R5 boards.
    The thing is stupid bright, and makes a great bar light.
    No need to run it over 1amp IMO.
    Here is the original thread from CPF......

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ost-2200-Lumen

    If you look at the third picture down from the top that Quazzle posted above, you can see the pad that the driver is mounted to.

    This housing is a work of art. Truely amazing, very well thought out and designed. I love mine.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    I have one of these housings, and it is actually designed for taskled drivers.
    In the rear cavity there is a machined area just for the driver.
    I used a maxflex in mine with 2 3up XPG R5 boards.
    The thing is stupid bright, and makes a great bar light.
    No need to run it over 1amp IMO.
    Here is the original thread from CPF......

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ost-2200-Lumen

    If you look at the third picture down from the top that Quazzle posted above, you can see the pad that the driver is mounted to.

    This housing is a work of art. Truely amazing, very well thought out and designed. I love mine.
    Thank You!

  16. #16
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  17. #17
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    Quazzle,

    What is the correct input voltage to run this setup. I am about to order the stuff needed but This will be my first attempt using your boards.

    Brad

  18. #18
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    Wow, just looked at your web site and you do some amazing lights.
    Nice work with this one too.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by baexmeyer View Post
    Quazzle,
    What is the correct input voltage to run this setup. I am about to order the stuff needed but This will be my first attempt using your boards.
    Brad
    Hi Brad,

    thanks, all boards operate at voltage range from 3.0V to 9.9V. But the "fully regulated" range (i.e. the range within the output doesn't depend on voltage) depends on the board "power grade":

    A-type (16 watts): fully regulated from 6.0V to 9.9V
    B-type (11 watts): fully regulated from 5.0V to 9.9V
    C-type (7 watts): fully regulated from 3.0V to 9.9V

    so in a nutshell for maximum output we recommend 2 lithium cells for A and B types and 1 or 2 cells for C type.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle View Post
    Hi Brad,

    thanks, all boards operate at voltage range from 3.0V to 9.9V. But the "fully regulated" range (i.e. the range within the output doesn't depend on voltage) depends on the board "power grade":

    A-type (16 watts): fully regulated from 6.0V to 9.9V
    B-type (11 watts): fully regulated from 5.0V to 9.9V
    C-type (7 watts): fully regulated from 3.0V to 9.9V

    so in a nutshell for maximum output we recommend 2 lithium cells for A and B types and 1 or 2 cells for C type.
    So for a type A my 2S lipo 7.4v isnt ideal, as it's ideal to run it down to 5 volts and no lower to avoid damaging the cells from deep discharge? 2.5v per cell?

    Have these boards got battery voltage monitoring yet?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    So for a type A my 2S lipo 7.4v isnt ideal, as it's ideal to run it down to 5 volts and no lower to avoid damaging the cells from deep discharge? 2.5v per cell?
    2S lipo is perfect:
    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle
    so in a nutshell for maximum output we recommend 2 lithium cells for A and B types and 1 or 2 cells for C type.
    Also according to quazzle's website the boards have temperature and low-voltage cutoffs, so no flames.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfj197 View Post
    2S lipo is perfect:


    Also according to quazzle's website the boards have temperature and low-voltage cutoffs, so no flames.
    Any idea what the voltage cut off is for each board? Cant find it on Quazzle's site..and still no datasheet for the 333

  23. #23
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    the low voltage cutoff is still 2.8V (the same as with L332 board).
    The smarter voltage monitoring should be released next month.
    It's also needed in our new FL33 project

    PS.
    Sorry for the absent L333 datasheet. I planned to update it right after the testing of the final variant with enhanced battery and temp monitoring.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle View Post
    the low voltage cutoff is still 2.8V (the same as with L332 board).
    The smarter voltage monitoring should be released next month.
    It's also needed in our new FL33 project

    PS.
    Sorry for the absent L333 datasheet. I planned to update it right after the testing of the final variant with enhanced battery and temp monitoring.
    If its 2.8v then this would surely damage a 2S lipo or 2S lion 7.4v? I thought that low voltage cut of for them was 2.5v per cell?

    It will be fine if your using protected cells..but my lipo isnt..
    Need to find a protection board for it.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    If its 2.8v then this would surely damage a 2S lipo or 2S lion 7.4v? I thought that low voltage cut of for them was 2.5v per cell?

    It will be fine if your using protected cells..but my lipo isnt..
    Need to find a protection board for it.
    True, true. I had assumed it would cut off at 2.8v per cell, i.e. 5.6v on the recommended 2S pack. 2.8v on a 2S would be way too low for safe usage.

  26. #26
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    Quazzle are your L333 units shipping yet with the voltage monitoring? Are there other features that have been added as well? From what I understand, these features can be added if the board is shipped back to you if you have an older L333. It that true?

  27. #27
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    Hi, I had to change the board topology a bit and use different controller. So I'm sorry but it's not possible to "upgrade" L333 just by burning new firmware. Some hardware change is needed too.

    The new board has new index L334 and yes, it includes many nice features as:
    - 1S and 2S lithium battery monitoring
    - Automatic battery detection (cell count)
    - Automatic power reducing (soft) if less than 20% of charge left or temp reached 80C
    - High variable PWM frequency on low modes (up to 8KHz)
    - Many UI enhancements

    - ... and as usual all can be configured even in small orders

  28. #28
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    When will the 334 boards be available on your website?

  29. #29
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    in about 2 months I think. After we pass though all testing, update the datasheet and after release of FL33 which will use it as a primary engine.

  30. #30
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    Quazzle,

    I have several of Matthew's housings and want to use your engine. I have scoured your website, but cannot find any details about programming. I see that you say it has 3 predefined levels, but I was wondering if there is a strobe option in the driver.

    Thanks

  31. #31
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    Hi, please start with this document (you can skip all till the last page)

    This is not a fresh document, it explains L332 UI. The L333 (which is now active product) is a bit more complex. We have added a standby mode so you can eliminate a power switch in your design. To switch it off you need to press and hold the button for about 1sec (in any mode).

    Also there're three common firmware versions:

    #1. The light starts with standby mode when first connected to the battery. To operate the light you need a mom button (you can switch it ON/OFF, toggle levels, program and keep the ECO setting, activate strobes etc, see L332 UI by the link above)

    #2. The light always starts with 100%. But both mom button and power-interrupt UI are supported.

    #3. The light always starts with 2%. Both mom button and power-interrupt UI are supported.

    Let me know of you have any further questions.

  32. #32
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    by the way, there's a nice appnote of using mixed optics in GILI housing in the beamshot thread, see it here.


  33. #33
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    I have been running a light with 9 XP-G Led's for around 8 months & really like the grunt of the light even if I run it on low most of the time & Med through most trails.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  34. #34
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    wow looks great

  35. #35
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    Quazzle, what battery setup are you using with these? My runtime on high with ultrafire 3000mah (2 serial) is about 1.5 minutes, they just won't feed the beast. I know these are not the best batteries.

  36. #36
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    I use a rather compact custom LiPo pack (6 cells in total, 2S3P).
    The total capacity is about 2X 7500mah, it feeds the monster at full power (2X 16watts) during about 2 hours, not bad for me

  37. #37
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    today I have assembled another GILI, just a few practical hints for those who's going to try it with L333/L334 light engines:

    1. A recommended wires layout (note that I used thin teflon wires for singals):





    2. Use plastic tie straps to secure the cable:

    Attached Images Attached Images    

  38. #38
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    Whats the L334 apart from an upgrade of the L333?

    XPG S2's?

  39. #39
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    even better electronics, more fuctions.
    S2's can be installed on any board, there's no need to upgrade the product version just for that :-)

    By the way, many CREE's official distrubutors still have no idea about S2 availability

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle View Post
    even better electronics, more fuctions.
    S2's can be installed on any board, there's no need to upgrade the product version just for that :-)

    By the way, many CREE's official distrubutors still have no idea about S2 availability
    What new functions will we see?
    I had an email a few weeks ago saying that cutter had the S2 bins..
    Cutter Electronics

  41. #41
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    I know, it's normal practice of CREE that they may sent you a better bin.

    Just an example from my experience. The highest efficiency of XP-E neutral now is R2 (this is a guaranteed minimum). But we received R3 instead of R2. So if you're lucky guy I may try to order 1K R5 (1 reel) from CREE. Potentially you may get S2 or even S3 (probably) but also you may stay with 1000 of R5's. This is a game which I'm not ready to play at this moment.

  42. #42
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    see GILI compared with many brands in just released beamshot competition here FONAREVKA.RU

  43. #43
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    he he he, my screen is still trying to recover from the burn in

  44. #44
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    If I were to get one of these, is there a DIY on how to wire it up or can someone give m a hand?

  45. #45
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    as you can see on photos above the wiring is very simple. Here's the diagram:


  46. #46
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    Whoa yeah very easy.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle View Post
    I use a rather compact custom LiPo pack (6 cells in total, 2S3P).
    The total capacity is about 2X 7500mah, it feeds the monster at full power (2X 16watts) during about 2 hours, not bad for me
    Can you give us some more details on this Lipo pack? I'm assuming that you are referring to Lipoly packs that RC guys use to power their planes / cars / boats.

    I searched Hobbyking and can't find a 2S3P Lipo pack. Is this custom?

  48. #48
    A waste of time it is is
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    use the quick search button on the hobbyking site, left hand side, below the menu's, type in "2s3p" I got 7 batteries and a receiver. Sorry would paste the link but it doesn't change the browser address when you search

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinkBike View Post
    Can you give us some more details on this Lipo pack? I'm assuming that you are referring to Lipoly packs that RC guys use to power their planes / cars / boats.

    I searched Hobbyking and can't find a 2S3P Lipo pack. Is this custom?
    yes it's a custom. I used LiPo cells but they're not quite usual. The ones I have are rated at just about 2C discharge rate but have a way more increased capacity. These cells a commonly used in portative electronics, I got them directly from a factory

  50. #50
    nattyboh74
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    use the quick search button on the hobbyking site, left hand side, below the menu's, type in "2s3p" I got 7 batteries and a receiver. Sorry would paste the link but it doesn't change the browser address when you search
    like so?

    HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : ZIPPY Flightmax 5700mAh 2S3P 25C saddle pack

    seems very cheap. Matthewm was saying to use a 14.6v pack with the maxflex at 100 bucks a pop. Why are these so much cheaper using These LED modules? And why do these take 7,4v and not 14.6v? And can someone link me to a charger?

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