Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 59
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade

    Well I figured after messing around with 'production' lights i'd look at cranking up what i have. I don't have a means of milling a housing so I started searching around for light mods.

    Came across some info on Mitycross and TridenX but I figured i'd try it on the Pace 310 first. I cracked the case to see what i'm starting with. Found two of the SEOUL 2LED-N all nice and tucked in there.

    Now i started reading on 'what' to replace and i started getting a little of the infomation overload

    If this works then i'd like to crank up the rest of my lights. The Pace is listed as having 310, my Mitycross is listed at 400, and the TridenX is listed at 600. As usual these ended up not being enough - but i do like the housing and the beam pattern that Cygolite uses.

    So what i'm hoping to get out of all this?

    Brighter LED
    More efficient LED
    More run time? Would be nice

    Right now i'm thinking the XPG R5 on 20mm starts 'should' fit right in.
    These LEDs

    Here's a crappy cell phone pic.

    Thanks for looking and any help

    Ed
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-miticross300.jpg  


  2. #2
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,694
    I think the XML would be slightly more efficient than the XPG, and would possibly match the optics better.
    I could be wrong here, but it is something to look into.
    XML are not too much more $$ too.
    Lower Voltage Forward, slightly more lumens too.
    I would go with whichever one fits the optics better.
    I'm sure somebody will chime in on that.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    You talking one like this?

    XML LINK

    The current ones that are in there are 20mm so in theory these should be 'drop in'....

    Least that is what i'm trying for on this go around

    Thanks,
    Ed

  4. #4
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,694
    I wouldn't go for the one from DX.
    Read the posts about the stock status on the DX page.
    I ordered some of those, and they didn't even process the order.
    After about a month, I canceled the order.

    It looks like you are in the US.
    I would get them from Led Supply or Cutter.
    Cutter if you have other things you need to order, or Led Supply if all you need is 2 stars.

    T6 bin from Led Supply
    http://ledsupply.com/creexml-w280.php

    T5 bin from cutter
    http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1026

    T6 bin from cutter
    http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1027

    T6 bin is a tad bit more $$, but is also more efficient with more lumens per watt.

    The hardest part about doing mods like this is getting an LED to match the optics that are in the lighthead, as most optics are designed to work with a specific LED.
    The XPG has a much smaller dome than the SEOUL does, so it may not be a good match for the optics that come with the Pace 310.
    The XML has a much bigger dome than the XPG, potentially making it a better match to the optics that you have.
    I don't have any SEOUL Led boards around here to measure for you, but I think the XML is going to be closer in diameter.
    Now you'll just have to worry about the dome height.

    Hopefully, somebody will chime in that has experience with the older SEOUL Led, and tell you if I am talking out my @$$ or not.

    Do some research before you order anything using my advice, as I have only been doing the LED thing for a short time now, and only have my hands on some of the newer stuff, and no experience with what is now becoming older technology.

    It theory it should work though.
    Do a forum search in the DIY section for Cygolite. Some people have successfully modded them.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,510
    As a recent novice, I will throw in two cent's worth.

    Research: Cutter has nice links to data sheets for the XM-L and others when you look up the LED. The dimensions are further in these publications. You have the Seoul P4? N Bin to measure. If the dome height and width are close, check how much room you have in the bottom of the optic to fit the dome into.

    Room without squashing the dome isn't the only thing, though. Focus plays a big role. Looks like the optic is in the bezel and that means you can shim the bezel and lens closer or farther from the LEDs and that can help you fine tune the optics, provided you don't need to get inside squashing distance. So you can go try and error until you have as good as they can do. If you can find data sheets for the Seoul LED, the Mfr's claimed output will likely be before lens losses, so you can guesstimate the current the driver puts out at max.. From that, you can use the CREE sheet to guesstimate output of the XM-Ls (-10-15% for the optic).

    Of course anyone who has already invented this wheel would be a more help, but I know that just a little bit can be big at this stage in your learning curve. Looks can be deceiving, but this seems like it is definitely worth a shot.

    Saving decent lights from landfill is a laudable endeavor.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    I went and ordered up a couple new LED's - looks like they have shipped already. After they get here i'll do a before beamshot and the dig in and see how the new one's do.

    Thanks,
    Ed

  7. #7
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,694
    What did you order Ed?
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Ordered up the XML's to see how they do. If not in this then i'll start on making a new DIY light

    Ed

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Though i've been reading a bit here and there and I think i have the bug to build up a 2000 or so lumen bar light

    I've got a lot to figure out if i'm going to try and get that type of setup.

    Now back to my 'upgrade'..... My wonder is what this little Pace 310 is putting to the led? Would be nice to have an idea what I could possibly get with the new led in there compared to the stock one. Since i'm not of an electronics guy this should be interesting

    Ed

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by NitroRC Ed
    Though i've been reading a bit here and there and I think i have the bug to build up a 2000 or so lumen bar light

    I've got a lot to figure out if i'm going to try and get that type of setup.

    Now back to my 'upgrade'..... My wonder is what this little Pace 310 is putting to the led? Would be nice to have an idea what I could possibly get with the new led in there compared to the stock one. Since i'm not of an electronics guy this should be interesting

    Ed
    Do you know how to measure the current?

  11. #11
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,694
    Ed,
    my buddy just hooked me up with a Pace 295, I'm pretty sure it is basically the same light as the 310.
    I am planning on doing some foolijng around with it.
    I have a bunch of XML's, XPG's and some XPE's as well.
    If I have any success I will post back here with my results. Actually, I will post either way, good or bad.

    On a side note, a 2000 lumen bar light is a good thing.......= )
    I just finished building up my bar light that is pretty close to 2000 lumens.
    i used 2 3up XPG boards with carlco narrow optics and a maxflex running at 1000mAh.
    The thing is amazing.
    It makes my dual XPG helmet light running at 1500 mAh seem like a keychain light.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Right on on the light score! I'm waiting for my stuff in the mail still. And tonight i was going to do a beamshot pic but I think one of my kids 'borrowed' the 310. I got pics of everything else to compare with but i'll have to dig around for my missing 310

    Here are the lights i'm working with right now - i've got a few but i end up loaning some out on rides. But i'm ready to upgrade and improve

    Ed
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-control.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-cygo200.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-stella350.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-cygo400.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-tridenx600.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-gemini900.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-everything.jpg  


  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    I notice i was in a bit of a hurry when taking the photos - i didnt' quite get them all pointed towards the same location.

    Ed

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Ok - went out and took the 310 apart - yeah it just 'happen' to show up on the table today

    Wasn't able to get a current reading so i bailed on that for now but at least got some good internal pics. Might try to look up the board and see if there is any info on it.

    Next i'm going to dig into the 400 and see if the parts are the same

    On to the pictures,
    Ed
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1605.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1613.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1612.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1609.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1610.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1611.jpg  


  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Tore into the 400 and found something interesting.... The guts are all the same except for a 'different' LED.

    Will have to see what these are and when the new ones for the 310 show up i'll compare - maybe toss in a set of the XM-L and see what happens.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1615.jpg  


  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Pulled my TridenX open as well. Interesting is that they used the same LED's as what's in the Pace 310. So this one probably will be in need of an upgrade as well.

    Ed
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1618.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1619.jpg  

    Cygolite Pace 310 LED upgrade-imgp1620.jpg  


  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    488
    Looks like the 400 has pair of XPG's in its guts and the others are powerd with P4's

  18. #18
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,694
    I just took apart my pace 295 and it looks just like the 310.
    Same leds, same optics and everything.
    The XML dome is a great fit, but the star may need to be raised up a few mm from the mounting plate.
    I guess I should have taken some measurements while I had it apart, but couldn't remember where I last had my calipers.
    If you look at the dome on the seoul boards, it is raised up on a plastic plate.
    The XML will need to be raised up a little bit to match that height. About the thickness of a star board.
    Once you get the XML boards in, you'll see what I'm talking about.
    I'm charging the battery for the 295 right now.
    If I can get a good portion of a charge in tonight before bed I can take a beamshot, then swap in the XML's and do a comparison.
    Prolly won't have enough time though....will most likely have to wait till tomorrow after work.
    Cygolite sure does get slap happy with the thermal paste huh?
    Guess it's not a bad thing.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    savageman - you had a chance to mess with your light yet? My parts showed up but i'm not able to do anything till tomorrow night. I'll have to get a beamshot still of the 300 before the swap.

    I called up Cygolite to see if they would give me any info on the board that is in there - no luck there. I was trying to get numbers from them for the outputs so i could do a 'paper' comparison from the old LED to the new ones.

    Guess i'll see tomorrow night how it all goes

    Ed

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Can't you just take a reading?

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Have to put the multimeter in the line so the current goes through it - least that is what i have been reading online..... I'm probably being more careful than i need to but i'm new at messing with this stuff so taking it easy.

    I have not had a chance to mess with the light yet and start pulling apart. Thought I'd just call them up and see if they would part with the info but didn't have any luck with that. Oh well

    Ed

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    You are correct, just unsolder the connection on one side and connect your meter in the middle, make sure you have it on the correct setting. They might not even know to be honest, even if they did, what they say and what you get is a different matter ;-)

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Figured i'm might give it a shot whem i'm ready to tear into it. Just gotta get time

  24. #24
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,694
    Quote Originally Posted by NitroRC Ed
    savageman - you had a chance to mess with your light yet? My parts showed up but i'm not able to do anything till tomorrow night. I'll have to get a beamshot still of the 300 before the swap.
    I haven't had a chance yet.
    Mainly holding out so I can get beamshots before and after.
    The swap should be pretty easy and fast.....it's the whole beamshot thing holding me up.
    I really want to get beamshots so everybody can see the results, and I'm being stubborn about it.......= )
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NitroRC Ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    183
    Well the game plan tonight is i'll try to get a beamshot before tearing into the 310. Depends if its raining out or not - i'd rather not drag the camera out if it is

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •