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  1. #1
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    Conversion Niterider HID to LED?

    I have a Niterider Moab light that has a smashed headlamp and was wonder if anyone has converted this to an LED? And how. It has a monster of a powerful battery and has the charger and connections. Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    lumen junkie
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    My niterider enduro hid is dead too and just last night I was wondering if I could jam some LED's in there...problem is the case is plastic so even with a big aluminum slug the heat is all enclosed with no route to air.

    I think I'm just gonna cannibalize the cords, battery, mount and maybe switch and build a new light.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_SC
    I think I'm just gonna cannibalize the cords, battery, mount and maybe switch and build a new light.
    That is the kind of thing I was hoping to get ideas from on this forum. I am amazed at what people are building and the knowledge on this forum! Fact is I have a great battery/charger/mounts. All I need is a light. I already have a dinotte 600l and love the leds and the small battery. I can't imaging the duration of a LED built with the massive MOAB battery.


    Are their place I can send my stuff to have them build me an LED lamp for it?

  4. #4
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    Eischman - its totally possible. What is your price range?
    Wrecker of fine things

  5. #5
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    $50- $250 depending on what I'd get. Does it make sence? I don't want to recycle if I could just buy a new light set for a great deal. I know I could get 100-200 for the batter and charger on ebay. (I sell a lot there) But if I could turn it into a kick as% light for cheap...well why not.

  6. #6
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    You're more than halfway there

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_SC
    My niterider enduro hid is dead too and just last night I was wondering if I could jam some LED's in there...problem is the case is plastic so even with a big aluminum slug the heat is all enclosed with no route to air.

    I think I'm just gonna cannibalize the cords, battery, mount and maybe switch and build a new light.
    A perfect platform for doing it. Do you have the Li-ion battery or the NiMH? That's a 13.2V system. You have several options, you could build a nice bright light that lasts longer than the original HID.
    All you need is the light head. You have everything else. With all the info on here and a few hours in the shop/shed/basement/kitchen table you'd be set up!
    I'm sure with all the support on this forum you could get it done in no time.
    Wrecker of fine things

  7. #7
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    That's a fair range.

    Quote Originally Posted by eischman
    $50- $250 depending on what I'd get. Does it make sence? I don't want to recycle if I could just buy a new light set for a great deal. I know I could get 100-200 for the batter and charger on ebay. (I sell a lot there) But if I could turn it into a kick as% light for cheap...well why not.
    With that range, you are looking at anything from what was decent last year to close to top of the line now.
    What shape is the light head in now? You said it was smashed. Is that the bulb only, or the light head too?
    Wrecker of fine things

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Slayer
    A perfect platform for doing it. Do you have the Li-ion battery or the NiMH? That's a 13.2V system. You have several options, you could build a nice bright light that lasts longer than the original HID.
    All you need is the light head. You have everything else. With all the info on here and a few hours in the shop/shed/basement/kitchen table you'd be set up!
    I'm sure with all the support on this forum you could get it done in no time.
    Mine is the 11 cell NiMH battery. I'll use it to wire up some of these: http://twitpic.com/le1yv

    woot!

  9. #9
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    Yes, NiMH are almost always 1.2V per cell, so that makes sense.
    rodie, you are ready to go!! NICE? What's your housing going to be?
    Wrecker of fine things

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Slayer
    A perfect platform for doing it. Do you have the Li-ion battery or the NiMH? That's a 13.2V system. You have several options, you could build a nice bright light that lasts longer than the original HID.
    All you need is the light head. You have everything else. With all the info on here and a few hours in the shop/shed/basement/kitchen table you'd be set up!
    I'm sure with all the support on this forum you could get it done in no time.

    I have the big 13.2V Li-ion battery. The only thing wrong with the like is the front glass and lamp are broken. I am also willing to ship it somewhere to get someone to do the work. I do like the the fact that you can use the small LEDS as well as the big lamp



    FEATURES
    3 HID Light Settings
    Fuel Gauge
    7:15 11:15 HR HID Run Times
    Lamp Out Protection
    3 LED modes: Steady / Flash / SOS
    4:30 HR Charge Time
    720 HR LED Run Time

    SYSTEM INCLUDES
    HID+LED Headlamp
    52 Extension Cable
    Li-Ion Battery 20 Extension Cable
    Handlebar Mount -
    fits up to 31.8 mm bars
    4.5 HR Smart Charger
    Helmet Mount

  11. #11
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    You can also upgrade your light with the new Welch Alyn 900 lumen HID. Just change the ballast and bulb. You can do this for about 100$.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trudo
    You can also upgrade your light with the new Welch Alyn 900 lumen HID. Just change the ballast and bulb. You can do this for about 100$.
    Would that bulb and ballast fit in my casing? Is it esay to do? Where do I by what I need and do most people recomend this over LEDS?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by eischman
    Would that bulb and ballast fit in my casing? Is it esay to do? Where do I by what I need and do most people recomend this over LEDS?
    Niterider have a new HID light that use the same casing as my old Enduro light. The only thing I think that have to adressed is the light switch. I think the switch in the old Nitirider HID have a controler so you have to remove it because the new ballast do this job. You can find some information in this tread but it's for a Light and Motion. Many things is same for the Niterider. You can order the part on welch Allyn website directly. Find 14 watts NGX bulb and ballast.

    Light and Motion Arc replacement bulb - group buy?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by eischman
    Would that bulb and ballast fit in my casing? Is it esay to do? Where do I by what I need and do most people recomend this over LEDS?

    This the bulb and ballast I talk about. You have the choice of 13 or 6 degree bulb.

    http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/d...55503704661340

    http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/d...55503704661340

  15. #15
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    I would prefer LED but if the buld and ballast fit the casing then I should consider the HID as well. Which do you recommend the 6 degree or 13? What is the difference. Is it easy to do? Do I just spice the wires and reattach?

    Does anyone have a LED idea?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by eischman
    I would prefer LED but if the buld and ballast fit the casing then I should consider the HID as well. Which do you recommend the 6 degree or 13? What is the difference. Is it easy to do? Do I just spice the wires and reattach?

    Does anyone have a LED idea?
    13 degrees firts but if you want a second light take a 6.

  17. #17
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    Are you sure it'll fit. I put the NGX bulb / ballast in HID lights I built myself and I had to modify the case to handle the additional length of the MR11 bulb. It's a couple of mm longer. I have Niterider HID light as well, but I haven't tried putting the NGX parts into it. I know the ballast will fit since it's the exact same size. It's the longer bulb that could be the problem...I'm not sure if the case will accept it w/o modification.

    Almost all bike lights use the 13 degree bulb. The 6 degree bulb is just too tight even for a helmet light.

    How to wire the ballast gets a little tricky. The Niterider HID lights that have the small LEDs have a single PCB that includes the control logic, the LED driver for the small LEDs, and a switching voltage regulator to get optimum brightness out of the original HID bulb/ballast, a fuel gauge, and multiple HID brightness levels. If you bypass this board, you'll lose all those functions. If you connect the new ballast to that board, you'll be going through 2 regulators which means it'll be somewhat inefficient. Since each regulator is around 85% efficient you'll end up around 70% efficiency going through two.

    What is potentially more problematic is there's no way of knowing the current rating on the Niterider regulator. The NGX bulb on high may draw too much current and the NR regulator may burn out fairly quickly. The multiple brightness level of the base NR PCB may be problem as well. The lower settings may be below the minimum voltage of the NGX ballast. Also since the NGX ballast is regulated, it'll correct for the lower input voltage of the med and low setting on the base NR PCB, so the light won't actually get dimmer but the current will go up as the NGX ballast compensates. That'll make it even more likely to burn up the NR regulator.

    If you have the older NR HID light that doesn't have the small LEDs it's not as much of a problem to connect the NGX ballast. They basically just had a switch that controlled power to the ballast. It still matter if the bulb will physically fit in the case, but the wiring will be much simpler.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtbMacgyver
    If you have the older NR HID light that doesn't have the small LEDs it's not as much of a problem to connect the NGX ballast. They basically just had a switch that controlled power to the ballast. It still matter if the bulb will physically fit in the case, but the wiring will be much simpler.
    I have a Enduro light that don't have LED. Only one setting (on or off) so I think I can exchance the ballast and bulb. I don't know if it fit. The new NGX Niterider light look like the old one but only a direct look at it can confirm that the NGX hardware fit in old Niterider.

    Edit: The light head is longer.

    http://www.niterider.com/images/2008...endurolith.jpg

    http://niterider.com/images/SlickRock.jpg
    Last edited by Trudo; 10-15-2009 at 07:22 AM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trudo
    I have a Enduro light that don't have LED. Only one setting (on or off) so I think I can exchance the ballast and bulb. I don't know if it fit. The new NGX Niterider light look like the old one but only a direct look at it can confirm that the NGX hardware fit in old Niterider.

    Edit: The light head is longer.

    http://www.niterider.com/images/2008...endurolith.jpg

    http://niterider.com/images/SlickRock.jpg
    I have the original storm which is on or off.

    Looks like you would just have to dremel out a piece to go in between.

    The only thing I would be slightly worried about is that on high the slickrock only runs for about 2 hours. How could we turn it to low to save power?

  20. #20
    Rolling
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    I designed a block that would hold two leds and attach to a niterider housing. The idea was to make something that just bolted on. You wire it to the existing wires.

    In my case, it was a 6 volt nightrider cyclops so I could use some of the simple regulator circuits that output 750 mA with an imput voltage between 5 and 7 volts. Your case, you will have to deal with regulating 13.2 volts or put 3 leds in Series with a 3.5v regulating circuit. You could make a larger mount if you chose 3 LEDs. I think you can get a regulator to handle the 13.2 volts though.

    My design was simple enough that you can use a block and just bore holes plus a sheet metal plate sandwiched to mount the LEDS and circuit to. Minimal machining and simple assembly.

    LED retrofit

    I never made it though because I got some magicshine lights instead. Just an idea for you.
    Last edited by lidarman; 11-12-2009 at 05:50 PM.

  21. #21
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    Wow! awesome drawing. You must be an engineer

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