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  1. #1
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    Cateye Tripleshot XML conversion

    Well this should be easy peasy .

    just had this cateye dropped off for an upgrade
    Battery old and dead he has lost the charger so a new battery and charger needed
    first thoughts were as in the pics to do a double xml / regina job
    but waiting till dark to see what the stock optics look like on the xmls first as they are luxeon leds in at the moment and I assume optics designed for them






    I am looking for any other suggestions before I start messing about with it .
    looks to have plenty of aluminium surface to handle 2 xmls.

  2. #2
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    Can you fit the LXP in? It would fill the reflectors cutoff with some spill and give some wider hotspot. Housing should cope with the heat from 2 XM-L @ 3A, but I'm a bit worried abut the Lflex being so close to the source of the heat, since it will produce aditional 4W of heat on the same surface as the LEDs. But it's still worth to try, since you have the built in heat management from the Lflex.

  3. #3
    help with the zip please
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    I wouldn't worry about the position of the lFlex, just set the trip point higher than you would if it were in a separate compartment mounted to the back wall of the housing.

    No other suggestions as I have really played with the xml's yet.

  4. #4
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    I say it looks good as it is Trout.
    What about an additional heatsink stacked on top of the Lflex chips.
    Something round with some cools fins machined into it.
    It would look cool and would also be functional to help dissipate any excess heat from the driver.
    It would help to fill the space as well.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    I say it looks good as it is Trout.
    What about an additional heatsink stacked on top of the Lflex chips.
    Something round with some cools fins machined into it.
    It would look cool and would also be functional to help dissipate any excess heat from the driver.
    It would help to fill the space as well.
    AFAIK the Lflex is designed to dissipate the heat it generates via the flat base of the driver, so as long as it's stuck down with the thermal pad stuff it should be fine. Most *flex driven lights have the driver thermally coupled to the same piece of metal that the LEDs are attached to and they seem fine.

    Any progress Troutie? I have a Doubleshot coming in soon for a double XM-L upgrade (keeping the existing battery+driver for cost reasons) so it'll be interesting to see how you've progressed. I'll probably try reusing the existing optics unless they're utterly crap, in which case I'll stick in a Regina and perhaps a BoomSS or DX 18mm reflector (ie. what I have lying around).

  6. #6
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    [QUOTE=mattthemuppet
    Any progress Troutie?[/QUOTE]

    I'm curious too.

    @mattthemuppet: drop the Boom SS idea unless you're after some terrible flood. I'd combine a reflector with optics like Regina/LM or maybe LXP or LC1, just to get enough throw from the reflector and to fill the reflectors cutoff with optics flood and still add some throw from the optics.

    I'd love to get one of this hosts in my hands just to experiment.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79
    I'm curious too.

    @mattthemuppet: drop the Boom SS idea unless you're after some terrible flood. I'd combine a reflector with optics like Regina/LM or maybe LXP or LC1, just to get enough throw from the reflector and to fill the reflectors cutoff with optics flood and still add some throw from the optics.

    I'd love to get one of this hosts in my hands just to experiment.


    No Progress it is still sat on my desk had a quick test with the stock optics and they were terrible .

    Regina`s or round Ledils Reginas would be easiest
    but be a shame to have the xmls throttled back by the stock driver / battery .

  8. #8
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    With Lflex and two parallel XM-Ls there'd be still tons of light, with some good distribution. Or even one Lflex in the host and one external to push those LEDs to the max?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79
    I'm curious too.

    @mattthemuppet: drop the Boom SS idea unless you're after some terrible flood. I'd combine a reflector with optics like Regina/LM or maybe LXP or LC1, just to get enough throw from the reflector and to fill the reflectors cutoff with optics flood and still add some throw from the optics.

    I'd love to get one of this hosts in my hands just to experiment.
    I'm personally hoping to get by with reusing the stock optics, although they look utter crap with the stock LEDs, so we'll see. One stock optic and one regina is an idea. BoomSS is only to mix spot(ish) of the Regina and flood, to make an all round light (he only has 1 light), but I'm not wedded to it, just have it lying around

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    No Progress it is still sat on my desk had a quick test with the stock optics and they were terrible .

    Regina`s or round Ledils Reginas would be easiest
    but be a shame to have the xmls throttled back by the stock driver / battery .
    ah, nuts, should have read that before replying to Toasters post No stock optics then..

    I agree 100% about underdriving the XM-Ls, but it's not my light or money. He'll be happy going from 2 P4s to 2 XM-Ls for $20, if he wants more light, better battery + new charger I can do it for him later.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    ah, nuts, should have read that before replying to Toasters post No stock optics then..

    I agree 100% about underdriving the XM-Ls, but it's not my light or money. He'll be happy going from 2 P4s to 2 XM-Ls for $20, if he wants more light, better battery + new charger I can do it for him later.
    If you're using the original driver then couldn't you use a couple of XP-Gs rather than XM-Ls? They'd cope with the current just fine and being smaller might work rather better with the stock optics.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfj197
    If you're using the original driver then couldn't you use a couple of XP-Gs rather than XM-Ls? They'd cope with the current just fine and being smaller might work rather better with the stock optics.
    that's true, hadn't really thought of using XP-Gs, I just added his XM-Ls to some others I was ordering.

  13. #13
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    sorry Troutie, for repeatedly hijacking your thread, only this doesn't seem worth one of its own.

    Anyway, made a discovery about the Doubleshot I finished upgrading over the weekend. If you take the cover off the driver you'll find a little trim pot covered with a blob of white stuff. Scrape the white stuff off and then turn in 1/4 of a turn clockwise = ~900mA, 200mA more than stock. Turning it further didn't seem to increase the current, so that's probably as far as it'll go.

    That plus the 2 XM-L (1 Regina, fits perfectly, 1 cheap DX reflector I had kicking around) = a half decent light. Easily more than 400lm, probably around 600lm or so. Way better than the original

  14. #14
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    just a thought,...

    - use old driver if it works ,... less work/money
    - use 3x LED's
    - XPG could do , better spot
    - 20mm optics, ledil, carclo,
    and you don't need to mess with front glass due reflector
    - crank up the 200ma extra
    or replace with a troutie version

  15. #15
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    Sorry to bump an old thread, but Iím a long time lurker first time poster and canít open a new thread or send PMís. This thread is very close to what Iím looking for but I need some additional input from the masses.

    I have a Cateye double that I believe has a battery that is going dead. It shows to be fully charged quickly and after about 10 mins of riding the light will strobe. So, I first considered building a new battery pack. I think to do that I would only need to get 10 1.2 V Ni-Mh 2700 Mah rechargeable batteries and rewire like current configuration. Is there any concern in doing this? Iím thinking potential issue in terms of how they would take to the original Cateye charger. Is there anything I need to look for in terms of charging when buying the batteries?

    Now here is the bigger issue where I need advice from the experts. I like Matthemuppets rebuild, but he used the current battery and driver. Given the state of my current battery and my limited skill set in working with lighting systems, what would is the best option for me? Replacing the battery pack and swapping out some LEDís I think I could do if I knew specifically what I needed to buy. I should be able to handle the mod inside the driver to raise the mA to 900. I know there are a lot of benefits changing over to Li-Ion but to do so I would also need to change the driver at the very least, correct? At this point does the cost and/or knowledge required outweigh benefits? Essentially I think at that point I would be building a light and pretty much just using the Cateye double shot body and perhaps couple other parts. Not sure if that would be considered a good move for someone like me.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, if anyone wants to recommend a particularly good site or thread that details basics of this type stuff that would help me too. Found lot of great information on this board, but much of it goes over my head. Again, my apologies for hijacking and bumping an older thread.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79 View Post
    With Lflex and two parallel XM-Ls there'd be still tons of light, with some good distribution. Or even one Lflex in the host and one external to push those LEDs to the max?
    Wouldn't the LFlex drive two xml's in series from a 2s pack at full current? I thought that was exactly the way it was designed to work.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum9 View Post
    Wouldn't the LFlex drive two xml's in series from a 2s pack at full current? I thought that was exactly the way it was designed to work.
    It is indeed.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bledsoe32 View Post
    Sorry to bump an old thread, but Iím a long time lurker first time poster and canít open a new thread or send PMís. This thread is very close to what Iím looking for but I need some additional input from the masses.

    I have a Cateye double that I believe has a battery that is going dead. It shows to be fully charged quickly and after about 10 mins of riding the light will strobe. So, I first considered building a new battery pack. I think to do that I would only need to get 10 1.2 V Ni-Mh 2700 Mah rechargeable batteries and rewire like current configuration. Is there any concern in doing this? Iím thinking potential issue in terms of how they would take to the original Cateye charger. Is there anything I need to look for in terms of charging when buying the batteries?

    Now here is the bigger issue where I need advice from the experts. I like Matthemuppets rebuild, but he used the current battery and driver. Given the state of my current battery and my limited skill set in working with lighting systems, what would is the best option for me? Replacing the battery pack and swapping out some LEDís I think I could do if I knew specifically what I needed to buy. I should be able to handle the mod inside the driver to raise the mA to 900. I know there are a lot of benefits changing over to Li-Ion but to do so I would also need to change the driver at the very least, correct? At this point does the cost and/or knowledge required outweigh benefits? Essentially I think at that point I would be building a light and pretty much just using the Cateye double shot body and perhaps couple other parts. Not sure if that would be considered a good move for someone like me.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, if anyone wants to recommend a particularly good site or thread that details basics of this type stuff that would help me too. Found lot of great information on this board, but much of it goes over my head. Again, my apologies for hijacking and bumping an older thread.
    If I had a Doubleshot and a bit of money to spare, I'd buy an Lflex, an XM-L U2, a LXP-RS (Digikey), a tactile switch (Digikey has tons), 2 to 4 Li-ion cells and a cheap DX Li-ion charger. Put the XM-L in one LED cavity, XM-L in the other, drill a hole somewhere to thread through the wires for the switch (shrink wrap the switch and glue it to the housing or make a handlebar mount for it), then wire the Li-ions in parallel, shrink wrap it and you're good to go. For the charger, just solder a spare connector to the +ve and -ve terminals. Charging will take a while, but it'll get there eventually.

    That would give you 950-1000lms theoretical, long runtime and all the bells and whistles of the Taskled drivers. Total cost would be:

    $30 (driver) + $10 (LED) + $6 or so (switch and optic) + $7 (couple of Magicshine cables) + $7-14 (batteries) + $8 (charger) = $68-75. Seems a lot compared to the XM-L Magicshines on DX, but I'd wager it would be a far better light.

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