• 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    5 Attachment(s)
    CatEye Double Shot XM-L (U2-1C) Upgrade
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    5 Attachment(s)
    After some measuring, I calculated the XM-L star assembly was about 1mm shorter than the stack height of the previous LED. I had some .75mm sheet aluminum from another project on-hand. I traced the existing aluminum mounting plate onto the stock and trimmed it up with a dremel to fit.

    Attachment 741415

    Attachment 741416

    I tried to get fancy by cutting out some extra room at the bottom of the mounting plates to allow for the larger gauge of wiring I was using.

    Attachment 741417

    Everything looked good until I put in the star for a test fit.

    Attachment 741418

    It became obvious the wiring wouldn't fit appropriately and I'd have to take another route because I didn't want to grind down the star any further than I already had.

    Attachment 741419
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    6 Attachment(s)
    What to do? Drill holes! :thumbsup:

    Attachment 741420

    Attachment 741421

    Attachment 741422

    XM-L's wired in parallel. I also put a dab of heat sink paste between each layer.

    Attachment 741423

    Attachment 741424

    Attachment 741425
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    5 Attachment(s)
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    I'll take some beam shots tonight (if my neighbors don't have their driveway light on).

    I plan to use one of my previously built battery packs to power it. And, I'm tinkering around with a couple of solutions for an in-line switch that will hopefully hold the driver in the same housing as the switch.

    More updates later...
  • 12-01-2012
    odtexas
    Very cool so far. Keep at it.
    What driver are you thinking about using?
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    odtexas, thank you. I've already purchased a few different KaiDomain 7135 drivers and I'll be using an 8x7135 (3040mA) on this dual light. The LEDs are in parallel so the max output on them is about 1500mA. Hope one of them doesn't go *poof*. If it does, the twin will follow shortly. ;)
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    7 Attachment(s)
    Beamshots!
    Driver: KD 8x7135 V2 LED Driver 3040mA 17mm
    I'm using the 1S4P pack I previously built.

    Camera details:
    Canon XTi
    4 second shutter speed
    F-Number F/4
    ISO 100
    Daylight white balance
    Manual focus
    18mm focal length


    Before Control:

    Attachment 741587

    Before On (only one mode):

    Attachment 741588


    After Control:

    Attachment 741589

    After Medium:

    Attachment 741590

    After High:

    Attachment 741591


    After High & XM-L miNewt (wide angle lens) High:

    Attachment 741592


    Fancy schmancy test rig: ;)

    Attachment 741593
  • 12-01-2012
    adrenalnjunky
    Nice work!

    Am I correct that the doubleshot housing doesn't have a spot for the driver? Other than that, It looks like a really nice candidate for an upgrade - built just right inside.
  • 12-01-2012
    mattthemuppet
    nice job, but I'd ditch those optics if I were you as that beam pattern is very ringy. Reginas fit fine (what I used for my mate's) or there's a whole host of TIR optics out there that will way outperform the stock ones.

    great to see you on such a roll, what's next?!
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Nice work!

    Am I correct that the doubleshot housing doesn't have a spot for the driver? Other than that, It looks like a really nice candidate for an upgrade - built just right inside.

    Thanks!

    I could have used one XML and put the driver in the other spot. But, I was itchin' to squeeze two XMLs in there. ;) With two XMLs, I couldn't figure out a suitable way to put the driver in the housing, also.

    There's a good amount of mass to the cateye housing and it appears to dissipate heat fairly well. I had both lights on high when testing and when I put everything away the miNewt was noticeably hotter than the cateye.

    There's also a Cateye Triple Shot light that houses three LEDs. If I ever stumble across one of those I'll upgrade the outside two LEDs and put the driver in the middle position.
  • 12-01-2012
    marpilli
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    nice job, but I'd ditch those optics if I were you as that beam pattern is very ringy. Reginas fit fine (what I used for my mate's) or there's a whole host of TIR optics out there that will way outperform the stock ones.

    great to see you on such a roll, what's next?!

    Thank you. I noticed the rings on the before and after photos. It's not too bad when mixed with the bar light. Alone, it's not the greatest.

    Is there a particular model of Regina you'd recommend for this housing? With the recent trouble I've gone through to upgrade it, I'd really like to find an exact replacement. ;)

    What's next? Finish this thing up (in-line switch) and go ride at night. :thumbsup:
  • 12-01-2012
    wquiles
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    Thank you. I noticed the rings on the before and after photos. It's not too bad when mixed with the bar light. Alone, it's not the greatest.

    Is there a particular model of Regina you'd recommend for this housing? With the recent trouble I've gone through to upgrade it, I'd really like to find an exact replacement. ;)

    What's next? Finish this thing up (in-line switch) and go ride at night. :thumbsup:

    Nicely done - good job :thumbsup:

    Will
  • 12-02-2012
    marpilli
    wquiles, thank you!


    mattthemuppet, were you referring to the Regina C11347 reflector?
  • 12-03-2012
    mattthemuppet
    yep, that's the one. You'll need to drill out the hole to 7mm (I think) to fit it over the LED and then just use a few dabs of 5min epoxy or hot glue to hold it in place. It gives a very "torchy/ flashlight" pattern with a well defined spot and sharp spill cut off, so if you like a smoother beam the 10deg XM-L optics from LED-DNA are very good. It's just a matter of preference.
  • 12-03-2012
    marpilli
    DigiKey is worse than Amazon. They have most everything I want and the USPS 1st class postage is cheap.

    I ordered two Dialight OP-015 optics and two Ledil C11347 REGINA reflectors.

    I'll give each a try in pairs and then I'll mix the two and see how it looks. Should be here in a few days.
  • 12-05-2012
    TJWilly
    I have a triple shot pro I'd like to modify at some point. I need to do some more research.
  • 12-05-2012
    marpilli
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TJWilly View Post
    I have a triple shot pro I'd like to modify at some point. I need to do some more research.

    I don't know how the tripleshot pro differs from the basic tripleshot. I did find a couple of good conversion threads on the regular tripleshot when I was searching around for doubleshot conversion ideas.

    Maybe they'd be helpful.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do...ot-608544.html

    CatEye HL-EL700RC Triple Shot - review & mod.
  • 12-05-2012
    TJWilly
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    I don't know how the tripleshot pro differs from the basic tripleshot. I did find a couple of good conversion threads on the regular tripleshot when I was searching around for doubleshot conversion ideas.

    Maybe they'd be helpful.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do...ot-608544.html

    CatEye HL-EL700RC Triple Shot - review & mod.


    I don't know all of the differences really. I know the pro went lithium, changed the switch and optics... some aesthetics... they updated the connector system using only one plug for both lamp and charger... Honestly, I would not have bought it had I run into this forum three days sooner. But at the time, I needed a decent light and I got it new for $100 at a going out of business sale. Retail was like $499 and no where near worth that with today's LED tech IMHO.

    For my upgrade, I'd like to be able to use existing battery as long as I can and retain switch and three LEDs. I really like the switch it has - easy to use with full finger gloves, and the LED changes color as battery life starts to go.

    The battery pack is really nicely done. The entire setup has a nice sturdy but light feel to it.

    And I'd like a decent mix of throw/flood optics in there.

    Where do you suggest I go with it based on that?

    Thanks.

    :)
  • 12-05-2012
    marpilli
    TJ, I do appreciate you asking for my advice. However, I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing in most cases. :lol: As I've never laid eyes on that model I really hesitate to suggest anything.

    Maybe start a new thread titled "Cateye TripleShot Pro - Upgrade Suggestions?" and post up some photos of the light as it's currently built. If you're brave enough, take that thing apart and post some photos of the innards, also. There might be some good suggestions from the smarter folks around here if they can see how it's put together.
  • 12-05-2012
    TJWilly
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    TJ, I do appreciate you asking for my advice. However, I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing in most cases. :lol: As I've never laid eyes on that model I really hesitate to suggest anything.

    Maybe start a new thread titled "Cateye TripleShot Pro - Upgrade Suggestions?" and post up some photos of the light as it's currently built. If you're brave enough, take that thing apart and post some photos of the innards, also. There might be some good suggestions from the smarter folks around here if they can see how it's put together.


    lol.... thanks! I will do just that. It is time for my first major service on the Felt and the indie throws services in for free so it will probably be a good time to take the light apart.

    By the way, this kinda turned into a hijack I did not intend on. Sorry about that!
  • 12-05-2012
    bobale
    Excellent work. Duble Shot is such a cool light, I wanted to own one since it came to maket, but it was always so out of my reach (cost wise). It's nice to see one of these updated with modern and powerful LEDs :).
  • 12-05-2012
    marpilli
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TJWilly View Post
    By the way, this kinda turned into a hijack I did not intend on. Sorry about that!

    No worries. The best threads wander around a bit. :thumbsup:

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bobale View Post
    Excellent work. Duble Shot is such a cool light, I wanted to own one since it came to maket, but it was always so out of my reach (cost wise). It's nice to see one of these updated with modern and powerful LEDs :).

    Thank you. I'm liking how this upgrade is going so far. The best thing is I'm using fairly "standard" stuff. So, when the next latest-and-greatest LED is produced I should be able to just buy a couple, make small modifications to them, and put them in place. ;)
  • 12-05-2012
    marpilli
    10 Attachment(s)
    In-Line Switch
    I assembled my in-line switch tonight.

    New bits are a Judco switch (557PB-ND), Judco rubber switch boot (513PB-ND), and a Hammond flanged project box (1551NFLBK).

    Drilled out the required holes in the project box.

    Attachment 742871

    Thread the wires through the holes, solder up the connections, coat the solder points with liquid electrical tape. The strain reliefs are made out of LED holders and heat shrink tubing.

    Attachment 742872

    Gently pack everything in there. It was a tight fit.

    Attachment 742873

    Close it up...

    Attachment 742874

    Attachment 742875

    Attachment 742876

    I used a couple of velcro cable ties threaded through the flanges.

    Attachment 742877

    Mounted to the helmet. I hadn't realized I left that much spare wire between the switch and the light. :crazy: Oh, well...

    Attachment 742878

    Attachment 742879

    Attachment 742880

    Hammond also makes a flanged box that's the same width and length; but, it's 5mm taller than the one I used (1551MFLBK). Although I included one in my last order, I decided to try and cram it all in the lower profile box. It's such a tight fit that I'd use the slightly deeper box if I were to rebuild it in the future.
  • 12-06-2012
    mattthemuppet
    that's a really neat switch/ driver box you've made, looks very professional! I think you'll probably have enough light to last you a little while now :)

    TJ - a twin XM-L with a driver+switch in the centre (same as Troutie's) would be the best approach IMO. Simplest would be a 3A Kaidomain V2 driver with the LEDs wired in parallel (so 1.5A each) and a1S3P battery (2-3h runtime). If you want more light, then wire them in series with a buck driver (3S battery) or Lflex (2S battery), but you'd need double up the cells (6 or 4) to get the runtime. More light but more money :) Just don't forget to heat the light up as much as possible before you disassemble otherwise the screws might strip.