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  1. #1
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    building d-star altair

    Hey guys. I know there are some of you that have bought, built, ran the Altair, so I need some confirmation.
    I have both the XRE and the MCE versions and will be ordering the parts from cutter soon but I want to make sure my parts list for everything is correct.
    MCE:
    Maxflex5A driver
    MCE cold MCE4CT cool 20mm star wired (series/individually?) LED's
    Ledil CMC SS optics

    XRE:
    Bflex V2B driver
    XRE Q5 WH tint 20mm star LED's
    Ledil LC1 RS optics



    Is this all right? or is there something I am wrong on? These will are to be ran off a 14.8v battery pack correct? Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by EPDP99; 06-14-2010 at 09:06 AM.

  2. #2
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    anyone offer some insight? needing to order soon.

  3. #3
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    Dstar has a website with a link to email the builder. That might be the best, most accurate source for info.

    http://www.dstar-led.com

  4. #4
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    Just wondering here and I will have to dig out my proto to have a look if 3 Reginas would fit in with a bit of modding would be a good light .

    If you get the mce as series stars you will need to wire them all 3 in parallel 3 only getting a third of the current through the leds .

    When I did one I wired the mces as 2 strings of 6 leds that way you can get better current through the dies .

    Steve seems to have dropped off the radar just lately might be his impending wedding looming very soon

  5. #5
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    Yeah I agree. I tried to email him over the last month and a half with no response. He did say he was having email problems and that he was getting ready for his wedding. His website doesnt have the specific details about the LED's. I thought I would have to do the series and wire them in parellel to get 2 6 led strands. Are you saying I should get them individually wired? I just got approval to build the lights from my wife about 2 months ago and shes gonna pull the go ahead if I dont get the stuff ordered soon. Thats why I'm kinda in a rush....

    He shows 2 different pics. One with LED's that look like series setup and one that looks like individual wired. With a wiring diagram that looks to be individually wired. So I believe troutie is correct and they are individually wired.

  6. #6
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    take a look here ....
    Help building D-Star
    its from this thread...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...57#post6256557
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  7. #7
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    OK thanks Hendo! I looked at every thread I could find and for some reason I have never seen that one. Makes it a bunch easier! I see I need individually wired stars also! What gauge wiring should I be using for everything?

  8. #8
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    I used some scrap bits of 0.25mm˛ flex
    but i run a nFlex (buck converter) set at 1A max output
    and a 6series 25v battery
    heres a handy link on wire size
    http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
    edit.. still wire the MCE as per pics for the maxFlex boost driver
    Last edited by HEY HEY ITS HENDO; 06-14-2010 at 03:40 PM.
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  9. #9
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    finally got around to building my light. I ran into one problem. Once all hooked up and tested i have one complete led thats dead. I figured if it was something I did only half would be dead. Nothing done different on the build than the others. It is obviosly wired correctly since the others work fine. Is it possible I got a dead one or does it sound like I may have killed it. I have another to swap it out with but just looking for insight as this is my first "build"(wiring job of lights).

  10. #10
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    ahah .. sounds like you didn`t test the led prior to installation, shame on you !!
    can you test it now before removal?
    is it part of a series wiring? strange the others work then
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  11. #11
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    Yes. My mistake not to test before installation but I honestly didn't know how to test them individually without putting too much power to them.I was afraid I might blow them by doing something stupid. Do I just hook the single led direct drive(battery straight to led)? If so what kind of battery to use. 3.6v, 9v? Yes it is wired in series with the others as per dstar website and some links you posted and yes the other 2 MCE's work fine. So I know power is getting through them and not shorted.

  12. #12
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    ok, are they wired up like these...
    Help building D-Star
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  13. #13
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    My POS cheap Chinese Multimeter has an LED check option. Works like a charm as it is very low current. You just want to know the LED or each die works, how well it works is a different issue.

  14. #14
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    Hendo:
    Yes wired exactly like that.
    Brian:
    I'll have to check my DMM for an option like that. I have a pretty good craftsman so I imagine its more for automotive but ill check anyways.

  15. #15
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    also what size wire are you gys using for your battery source? I have 22g for the light but i bought 18g for the batter pack and it wont fit in my DC plug. Is it better to buy 20g and try that or just use the 22g?

  16. #16
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    22G is good .. take a look here
    Wire-Gauge_Ampacity
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  17. #17
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    If I just use the diode function on my multimeter will that work to test it? how is the proper way to test the led without over currenting them?

  18. #18
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    yes i just use the diode test on my multi meter
    or a single li-ion cell will supply the correct voltage for a single led
    it only needs to be on briefly so there is no danger of damage at all
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  19. #19
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    well i am going to be redoing my solder joints as I do them seperatly to test and everybit of every led works but 2 dim out. My question is is why when I have it hooked up through the driver only 2 will work and not all three because current has to be flowing through them for the others to get power correct?
    Last edited by EPDP99; 08-15-2010 at 11:00 AM.

  20. #20
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    also when I test one side seperatly from the other I get the same 2 bottom halfs to light up, when I test the other side I get the middle one really bright and not the 2nd. when I test it completly together I get all 4 in the middle and half of the one and none in the other.... Im really confused now...

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by HEY HEY ITS HENDO
    ok, are they wired up like these...
    Help building D-Star
    Hendo:
    also with my lights exactly the way yours are and wired up to driver and everything testing in diode mode i get:
    top left: 0.58v
    top middle: OL
    top right: 0.57v
    bottom left: 0.52v
    bottom middle: OL
    bottom right: OL

    So I'm not that electrical knowledgable to now what this means but maybe someone can help me...


    also when I test each half indivually but with the light wired up the top left light and then dims real wast to nohing and the top right does the same. the bottom of all three stay constant and the top middle stay as well.......
    Last edited by EPDP99; 08-15-2010 at 10:35 AM.

  22. #22
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    I did notice I had one spot where the solder joint made continuity with the led pad but not the aluminum block plate. Just found that and fixed it.

  23. #23
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    ahh so its all ok now?
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  24. #24
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    no the two outers still act up and nothing is getting continuity to the pads or through the leds. still getting those voltages through the same led's like I posted above.

  25. #25
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    the ones that have the voltage reading across the led(half sections) are the ones that flash bright and go dim really fast.... well two flash and dimm out immediately and one takes a bit. I would guess those are the bad ones. So one complete and one half. Would this be from getting too hot possibly?

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