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  1. #1
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    Blue DragonFly Project 2 MC-E (beta)

    Here is my first DIY project still in construction. .
    Parts used so far.

    2 x CREE MC-E 4WT-A2-WG-M0 on star PCB
    2 x Carclo Lense Holder for Cree
    various angles Carclo 20mm Plugin Lenses
    2 x Massive Cooling Element
    2 x Himax ACC3922 20mm Ducted Fan Brushless Motor Heat Sink
    1 x Spike Heat Sink round 40mm for the hipflex driver
    1 x hipflex driver
    swith from a old computer
    3mm red led from old computer
    6 x Ultrafire 3.7V 2400mAh LC 18650 Protected Battery
    25mm Gun Rail Mount
    a piece of stainless steel round tube 20mm diam
    wires, solder, screws, etc..

    It should look similar to this I hope


    so far it looks like this:
    In the back the two main optics will be attached with a piece of metal plate to hold everything together with flat head screws and shaped so it fits the DX gunrail mount

    My soldering doesnt look to good... its the best I can do for someone who never soldered. I think the wires are to thick also.
    Is there a problem with overheating and damaging the hipflex components when soldering?
    I hope it didnt happen...
    I also have this mini constant current power supply to the small status led, can this interfere with the hipflex function or stability?
    As you see in the pictures after soldering the wires in the MCE LEDs I will have trouble fitting down the lense holder in the star PCB any ideas on how to solve this?

    Please leave your coments.
    thanks









    Last edited by sergio_pt; 05-15-2009 at 02:44 PM. Reason: add images

  2. #2
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    Looks neat. For soldering on the driver, use the soldering iron on the hottest setting, wet the tip and you should only need a fraction of a second contact so it won't really get too hot.

    I like 22Ga wire for the projects.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  3. #3
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    That looks like it has some really cool possibilities, thanks for posting this project. Thanks also for linking the components you used.

    Is this how these will go together?



    IMO you should not need the finned heat sink inside the tube though, since there will be no airflow inside there, it also looks like the fins may minimize contact with the tube which is attached to the outer heatsink.

    I suggest using a slug of aluminum that would fit inside and use some thermal adheasive to bond it to the tube which I would bond to the motor heatsink. That would give you some mass from the aluminum slug and better contact to the outer fins.

    One other thought about the tube. Being stainless it will not dissipate heat as effectively as Aluminum. It would be better to use all aluminum or possibly aluminum and copper.

  4. #4
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    Do you have the dimensions of the motor heatsink (length) and also the width of the gap along the long side of the heatsink? Do you think it will flex enough to use a slightly larger than 20mm tube? Thanks.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuksul08
    Looks neat. For soldering on the driver, use the soldering iron on the hottest setting, wet the tip and you should only need a fraction of a second contact so it won't really get too hot.

    I like 22Ga wire for the projects.
    yeah the small wires were easier to solder the larger ones more dificult because they take longer to heat. we need a soldering howto guide in the forum for the noobs like me to avoid destruction. I hope I didnt overheat the thing, I'll see today if the lights go up or not.


    Quote Originally Posted by HuffyPuffy
    That looks like it has some really cool possibilities, thanks for posting this project. Thanks also for linking the components you used.

    Is this how these will go together?



    IMO you should not need the finned heat sink inside the tube though, since there will be no airflow inside there, it also looks like the fins may minimize contact with the tube which is attached to the outer heatsink.

    I suggest using a slug of aluminum that would fit inside and use some thermal adheasive to bond it to the tube which I would bond to the motor heatsink. That would give you some mass from the aluminum slug and better contact to the outer fins.

    One other thought about the tube. Being stainless it will not dissipate heat as effectively as Aluminum. It would be better to use all aluminum or possibly aluminum and copper.


    That is a good design idea but I dont have access to a cnc machine, so I have to hold the two parts the simplest way possible with a piece of metal plate bolted down.
    The stainless tube is just to cover the spikes and the back will also be covered.
    I will try to do it today.



    One could machine the central part out of aluminium leave a round spot for the driver in between the two optics and a tab in the bottom to fit the gun rail mount. It would look nice; the idea stays up for anyone who wants to make it.

    A solid aluminium cylinder would be good too, but I got this massive cooling element with the right size, I think it will help remove heat anyway, I’ll add some thermal paste to the contact areas to further increase heat transfer. It also makes it easy to route the wires alongside the fins.


    The motor heatsink is 45mm long, the gap is 6.5 - 7mm width, the internal diameter is 20mm tight fit. It will enlarge or reduce about 1mm if you squeeze it with fingers, its strong aluminum.


    As anyone used the carclo lense holder with star PCB's? I'm not getting right how to solder the wires in this and still have space to fit the holder down...

  6. #6
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    Thanks, I see what you mean about the steel tube now. Thanks again, these heatsinks have got me thinking about a light using them, the 3-up Carclo XPE optics and possibly a couple Carclo 10mm XPE optics.

  7. #7
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    Blue dragonfly spits white fire already!

    Just wired all the things together and we have white light!

    I've been fidling with the driver configuration trying to set it to max power and the two MCEs dont seem to emit such huge amount of light like I see in beamshots... I'm a bit disapointed with that Am I missing something? I think I've set up the driver correctly to maximum 2800mA, the MCE are in 4P and wired in series with each other, I have used 3x18650 batteries in series (11.1V)

    below is the mount I done today too, bad quality photos from mobile sorry.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by sergio_pt; 04-21-2009 at 11:47 AM.

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    I don't think that you'll get the full 2800ma to the LED's with that battery.

    I could be wrong but I think you have a battery with to many volts and not enough Amps.
    Each MCE(wired 4p) would be 3.7v but in order to get the full 2800ma you require 3x18650's wired in parallel.

    See post 47 of this thread 4 x 18650 Battery Adaptor

    As you have 2x4p mce wired in series your total vf is only 7.4v, maybe less(could be as low as 6.9v) as the MCE is known to have a low vf so you may just gat away with a 7.4v battery but it would have to be a very high capacity one possibly a six cell one.

  9. #9
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    Looking good (that last piece is really small)

  10. #10
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    That battery should be fine with your setup, Turboferret's test was direct-driving a P7 which is a completely different setup than 2 MC-Es and a hipFlex. My guess is that the Carclo optics you're using aren't very good at managing and focusing the light from the MC-Es. It is notoriously hard to focus the 4-die P7s and MC-Es and there is a separate thread on which optics work well.

    which MCE optics will win

  11. #11
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    thanks for pointing the threads.

    I was almost asleep when I tested the lights this dawn, it was indoors with lights on so I guess I didn’t get the picture right! Just tried them again in the dark with no optics, just holding the wires and the batteries with fingers, set the hipflex to maximum current and WOW its daylight again! It outputs a big flood of white light. The optics should give the LEDs the desired spot throw… Development continues tomorrow.

  12. #12
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    Just want to show the project update because today I have received this new 6 x 18650 battery holders made by Richard aka TURBOFERRET! great work mate thanks!

    The build is reaching the beta stage, maybe tomorrow we have a full working beta, I just need a cable connector
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio_pt
    Just want to show the project update because today I have received this new 6 x 18650 battery holders made by Richard aka TURBOFERRET! great work mate thanks!

    The build is reaching the beta stage, maybe tomorrow we have a full working beta, I just need a cable connector
    Hm, who was the one that made a mockery of Turboferret's battery holders as being "insanely expensive for just a bit of plastic" just a few months ago? So you didn't make the holder by yourself after all?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ortelius
    Hm, who was the one that made a mockery of Turboferret's battery holders as being "insanely expensive for just a bit of plastic" just a few months ago? So you didn't make the holder by yourself after all?
    yep I made one but I didnt like the result, so it was time to spend an insane amount of money in the plastic holder, but it works nice.
    Last edited by sergio_pt; 05-30-2009 at 04:31 PM.

  15. #15
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    TADA Beta done and working fine!


    Next I'll need a nicer control box for the hipflex driver a new button and a case for the battery holder.
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  16. #16
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    Untill I wait for the Hammond box and ITW switch held in the customs, I decided to take a couple beamshots so I could also compare with other beamshots here.
    I hope I have the right settings on the camera or close to that used in the forum. I couldnt find how to set it at 6 second exposure + F4, so I set it at 2.5sec F2.8

    I have installed a 12 + 19 carclo optics I think it gives the right ilumination forward and arround.

    Lowest power


    Maximum power at 2800mA

  17. #17
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    Wow, that Blue Dragonfly is gonna have a sting if somebody makes the mistake of looking at the wrong end of it

    Really nice beamshots, seems really well focused, what Carclo optics did you end up using?

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    Impressive output nice work, you don't realise how small they are until seen next to a 18650 battery.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by HuffyPuffy
    Wow, that Blue Dragonfly is gonna have a sting if somebody makes the mistake of looking at the wrong end of it

    Really nice beamshots, seems really well focused, what Carclo optics did you end up using?
    Now I have one 12 carclo optics and one 19 optic installed
    http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power...4_106_107.html
    http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power...5_106_107.html

    Now I’m going to build another light with the extra MC-E I have here. Probably a simple "dinote style" with a small reflector for the helmet.
    I'll look like a super power christmas tree.

    Yes the lights are compact and very solid. the small screws on the bottom keeps the things tight enough.

  20. #20
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    Thanks, those optics are pretty cheap and they look good too. The "Blue Dragonfly design seems like it will make a re really good Dinote style light too.

  21. #21
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    My light is still in progress!.. evolving!
    Almost 3 years and still works like a charm! lol
    some more pictures soon...

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