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  1. #1
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    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)

    Hi everyone.

    I've got the itch to make lights again.

    Here's the progress so far:

    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8595410643_381ca344b0_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8596512720_4666460b79_c.jpg

    Feel free to make a guess at what I'm planning.

    Details of my last build:

    Revolver Mk II
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  2. #2
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    Mate, nice work as always. I'm guessing a double triple xml after having an intimate knowledge of your last work of art.

  3. #3
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    Good guess again Brad, but I've been inspired by Troutie's merciless treatment of his Spidereyes, so I'm eying up the MTG-2s. Two of these on the helmet with aspherics, and two on the bars with no optics.

    I have been vaguely toying with the idea of wireless mode control of the helmet after reading about your adventures in wireless control.

    Also wondering about direct mounting the MTG-2 on copper slugs. for effective heat dissipation.
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  4. #4
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    Well Blair is will certainly be an impressive light and I am wondering how I missed the MGT-2 thread of Trouties. Those look awesome and should have a nice big beam with the aspherics. Looks Like I need to buy some. Have you thought of purchasing some copper bar and parting off some disks to attach them to?

    I am hoping to get the get the remote finished soon, time permitting. Takes too long to do things when work and family commitments take over.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Well Blair is will certainly be an impressive light and I am wondering how I missed the MGT-2 thread of Trouties. Those look awesome and should have a nice big beam with the aspherics. Looks Like I need to buy some. Have you thought of purchasing some copper bar and parting off some disks to attach them to?

    I am hoping to get the get the remote finished soon, time permitting. Takes too long to do things when work and family commitments take over.
    Tell me about it. (time constraints that is..)

    Yes, I'm thinking about doing exactly that. Getting some copper bar, parting off some disks and soldering the leds directly to them. Actually it's a bit more complicated than that even, as I plan to run some copper through the middle of that threaded cavity and down into the core of the heat-sink to get the heat down to the rear fins effectively.
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  6. #6
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    Looking really good, you know how to get the best out of your lathe..

    What is the copper coloured thing the light head is on, that's held in the jaws of the chuck?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Looking really good, you know how to get the best out of your lathe..

    What is the copper coloured thing the light head is on, that's held in the jaws of the chuck?
    Thanks Goldigger.

    The copper looking stuff is tape. It stops the jaws marking the alloy when I clamp it. I sent a roll of the stuff to Brad a year ago when he anodized my last set of lights for me. He doesn't know it yet, but I'm wondering if he will be willing to do it again.

    To see what the tape is actually designed for, look here:

    WOBlog: I Can Make Your Watch Look NEW!
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  8. #8
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    Blair, cutting the new wheel for the Rolex certainly illustrates just how much patience and accuracy is needed to be be a watch maker. Nice blog mate.

    I am happy to anodize the new lights when you have them finished.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Blair, cutting the new wheel for the Rolex certainly illustrates just how much patience and accuracy is needed to be be a watch maker. Nice blog mate.

    I am happy to anodize the new lights when you have them finished.
    Cheers Brad.
    I had actually forgotten about that Rolex wheel.

    Anyway, I've been doing a bit more machining this morning. I turned up the second light head for my helmet, and on a whim I added some decoration to both of them, kind of in keeping with the Revolver theme from the last couple of builds, but also to save a bit of weight.

    Click on photos for larger view.

    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8619633811_55c8f38946_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8620735948_9f364128f6_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8620736834_3f1c2a425e_c.jpg

    I found that by screwing the jacobs chuck arbor, I could use the milling machine as a guide to make sure the tap went in straight. This makes for a very clean job. I'm using the chuck key as a tap handle.
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8620736580_9ddd91f310_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8619635723_1e6819e4aa_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8620737332_93df7f7542_c.jpg
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  10. #10
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    Nice lights but what you show being done in your blog blows them away totally. A tip of the helmet to you! I bust a sweat facing tapping a few #2 threads and you're cutting gear teeth one has to see with magnification!

  11. #11
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    Cheers for those nice comments there Vancbiker.

    Quick question.
    I'm thinking of integrating a rear light into my bar set-up, and need some electronics advise.

    Can I successfully wire 1 xml in parallel and two MTG-2s in series off a B3Flex? I realise it will steal some system power, but I'm figuring on fitting either an inline switch or something so I can turn it off when I'm on the trails. I'm just looking for a decently clean commuting set-up, and I really hate my current big blocky rear light.
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  12. #12
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    Progress

    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8632233887_b3c44995dc_c.jpg

    Lining up the light perpendicular to the cross-drill hole for the mount
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8633341616_3a85c89da3_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8633341868_bfbdb92cd9_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8633342152_05a3f7fb22_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8632235127_ebc5c46019_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8633342714_d5e6881931_b.jpg
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  13. #13
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    Fantastic as always Blair. Your making me itchy to purchase / make more bits for my mill, especially the motorized 4th axis.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Fantastic as always Blair. Your making me itchy to purchase / make more bits for my mill, especially the motorized 4th axis.
    Cheers, Brad.

    Yeah, that CNC fourth axis is absolutely magic.

    So this morning I have bored and shaped the other light head for the helmet. Here's a shot with my morning coffee to give you an indication of size. (30mm diameter at the head and 20mm heatsink). I always return to the 20mm heat sink as this is the largest size I can fit in my collet closer. Now I have to wait until some more stuff turns up. I have some smaller diameter alloy and copper coming in hopefully today, and I've got my leds, drivers and aspherics en route from Australia.

    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8636237002_ebc18b911f_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8635131895_0e4ec61c6e_c.jpg
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  15. #15
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    Just for the hell of it, here's a quick vid we shot of the rotary table in action..... Just to inspire you to buy one Brad.
    I was taking super-light cuts to avoid any horrible accident that might undo hours of work. You should be able to see the automatic back-lash compensation on the rotary table when it spins backwards.

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  16. #16
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    Nice movie Blair. I have a rotary table but it is not powered. I see you have a pendant fitted to the motor control. Is that running through software or do you manually set the endpoints then manually cycle the forward / reverse?

    I am in the process of pricing up doing a cnc conversion of my mill, but the price is beginning to scare me
    Last edited by brad72; 04-11-2013 at 06:35 PM.

  17. #17
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    absolutely stunning work there, something I can only aspire to! Cool lathe too, I've never seen one where the headstock can rotate - must make doing tapers much easier. Any details on the machinery? It'd be cool to geek out on it

    Oh, and great to see you making a start on your light too Brad!

  18. #18
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    Cheers guys.

    To answer your questions, Brad, I was using the divisions mode on the pendant. Set how many divisions you want and then press either forward or back. I had it set on 2 but I could just as easily have done it by setting 180 in degrees mode.

    Matt, check this site out:

    The Sherline Lathe, Milling Machine and Precision Miniature Machining Page

    But be sure to come back ok? Because the Sherline site is HUGE and so is the drool factor, and I'm afraid you might get lost in there and forget about us.
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  19. #19
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    Let the Cackling Begin...

    I have to admit, I actually cackled when I opened my mail this morning and saw the sheer size of these suckers!

    Mwaahaahaa and all that.

    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8649295219_64b8464fd5_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8650397214_56e0d56408_c.jpg
    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8649296317_5d3bcdf61f_c.jpg

    and here just for good measure is my first go at machining copper. It is quite interesting stuff to turn. I had to turn the spindle speed right down and get the feed rate just right, as the copper is really soft and chewy, but get those speed and feed right and it gives a beautiful surface finish.
    This is the little core that will carry heat from the led star down into the finned area of the light. I have given up on the idea of reflowing the leds directly onto the copper. Yes, it would make them cooler and brighter, but I figure they are going to be so damn bright anyway it isn't worth the hassle.

    Bazooka Light... (or Revolver MkIII)-8649294753_e519582d14_c.jpg
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  20. #20
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    Thanks for the info on the pendant. Copper looks like a different beast to cut. Always though it would be a bti like bronze but forgot about how ductile copper is, unless we can get hold of hard drawn bar.

    Those leds are pretty big but I think I am going to buy some for the focusable aspheric, I wouldn't feel right if I didn't

    As for the Sheline site they have some great stuff and really pretty reasonable priced. $2600 for a full mill and lathe package is pretty good for teh hobbiest or someone who doesn't require a larger machine.

  21. #21
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    ooh, a sherline! I've heard about them, but never seen one in action - they look very cool. I had a quick look (mostly at their chucks as I need a 4 jaw), but used my supreme strength of will to pull myself out again. Actually, I'm used to being in a perpetual state of befuddlement about a lot of things, so adding another source of befuddlement shouldn't be too big of a deal

    Sweet piece of copper machining. They're all over copper on BLF, mostly because they love doing super powered lights in tiny formats (7-up XM-L 20mm star anyone?), so it's always a pleasure to see.

    Personally, I think that if you're capable of doing such amazing work, not milling a post onto that copper heatsink and not milling a matching hole in that MT-G2 star and not reflowing an MT-G2 onto that heatsink would be a crime against humanity. Seriously.

    If I can reflow 20mm triple stars on my electric ring hob without a) screwing it up or b) dropping it into the dried rice overflow underneath, I'd be absolutely amazed if you can't do it. It's got to be the easiest thing electronics wise I've ever done.

    Thing is, not only will it make your lights brighter, but you'll be able to run them at the same brightness as non-copper mounted lights but with less current, ergo more runtime. Either of those things should be enough to convince you, but surely the fact that it'll be damn cool AND no one on here (well, perhaps apart from my shonky experiments, which don't count) will have done anything like it. Oh, apart from Troutie. hmm, anyway, you should do it, m'kay?

  22. #22
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    Nothing to do with your build, lathe or mills or sexy girls arses but I saw this vid on the weekend and I thought to myself, who do I know who is a kiwi that I can share it with, bro So break out the chilli bin and enjoy

    Last edited by brad72; 04-15-2013 at 12:11 AM.

  23. #23
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    ha ha ha, that's so funny - having lived in both NZ and Oz, I can really relate to that It took me years to get Ingrid to stop saying "ey?" at the end of every sentence, drove me nuts.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post

    Sweet piece of copper machining. They're all over copper on BLF, mostly because they love doing super powered lights in tiny formats (7-up XM-L 20mm star anyone?), so it's always a pleasure to see.

    Personally, I think that if you're capable of doing such amazing work, not milling a post onto that copper heatsink and not milling a matching hole in that MT-G2 star and not reflowing an MT-G2 onto that heatsink would be a crime against humanity. Seriously.

    If I can reflow 20mm triple stars on my electric ring hob without a) screwing it up or b) dropping it into the dried rice overflow underneath, I'd be absolutely amazed if you can't do it. It's got to be the easiest thing electronics wise I've ever done.

    Thing is, not only will it make your lights brighter, but you'll be able to run them at the same brightness as non-copper mounted lights but with less current, ergo more runtime. Either of those things should be enough to convince you, but surely the fact that it'll be damn cool AND no one on here (well, perhaps apart from my shonky experiments, which don't count) will have done anything like it. Oh, apart from Troutie. hmm, anyway, you should do it, m'kay?
    Curse you and your calling me out on my laziness! Ok, I will put the direct to copper heat path back on the agenda. I think you hit the nail on the head with what I was planning anyway. Mill a slot out of the back of the alloy pcb and fit the copper into it, heat it up and hey presto!... we have a decent thermal path. Yeah, it should be quite easy in theory.


    Brad, I've seen that before somewhere. Last year there were "beached as" T-shirts with a picture of the whale on them for sale everywhere. For the record, being married to an American, I don't think my accent is that bad. But get out of Auckland and into say, Taranaki, and phew boy, that's quite an accent. I particularly like the bit about "chups".
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  25. #25
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    "You wana chip, you mean a chup, yeah a chip, a chup"....made me laugh also. We have quite a few kiwi's in our factory and hearing them say things like "ah that's choice bro" when you help them with something always makes me giggle inside

    As for the copper I have a length of copper bar coming also to achieve that better heat path. I was going to butcher and intel heasink and steel the copper but I threw it away. Look forward to seeing your method of attachment

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