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  1. #1
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    Aspherical and XML helmet light attempt

    I have had these Aspherical lense`s in the parts drawer for nearly 2 years now I refound them during a tidy up .

    so this is the start of what I hope to be a super throwing helmet light



    Yes I know there may be comments



    Following the successful mixture of 2 xmls and 2 xpgs on my bar light
    this is the config for this light
    XMLs behind the Aspheric lenses and xpgs for some flood .

  2. #2
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    hahahahahaha!! thats crazy man, i love it
    wow, they`re some serious lenses
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  3. #3
    A waste of time it is is
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    first 'comment"

    Isn't the slot running the wrong way? Surely it would be better in a vertical direction

  4. #4
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    Sweet Chris, it seems you have achieved what Emu's avatar and my bike stand would look like from the front. Almost erotic art, some see eyes and a mouth, i see something else

  5. #5
    A waste of time it is is
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    Have you played to work out the best distance from the LED to mount the aspheric or is that going to be part of the experiment

  6. #6
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    You've got to be kiddin' me

  7. #7
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    Troutie have you tried putting some diffuser material over a bit of the aspheric to provide some flood?

  8. #8
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    I found 15mm from the surface that the led sits on gives you a perfect pencil beam..but way to tight for anything but a dive light.. I'd guess at the beam being about 4 degrees.
    I'd say 10-12mm from the surface that the led sits on to the bottom of the aspherics should be good for a helmet light..

  9. #9
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    How about making it adjustable via a thread on the front bezel. Tight beam for fast downhills and flood beam for technical ascents, all by a simple 1/2 to full turn twist?

  10. #10
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    My new favorite light design.

  11. #11
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    first 'comment"

    Isn't the slot running the wrong way? Surely it would be better in a vertical direction

    tried that but not enough room for the 2 x 10 mm optics

    I have played about with one but nothing definite yet as to focus and they may each get a different focus to overlap the beams a little .

    Yes Brad I did think about nipping the waist in a tad
    the on the fly adjustable is beyond my abilities and attention span .


    Jay I am approx 10 mm above the led dome at the moment so can take them down a bit at a time if needed

  13. #13
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    cool!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72
    i see something else
    I see bottle bottom glasses I can't remember the name of the show (Coronation St? <shudder>) but there was a guy on TV with glasses like that..

    Troutie, I think you should just skip LED lights and go for nightvision goggles.

  15. #15
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    Update on the as yet no name light

    #



  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Update on the as yet no name light

    #


    Have you been having lessons on how to machine things?
    Id be interested to hear how you went about this one..has to be the best one so far

    All you need is a front cover now..

    Chris which bolts are you using to hold the leds down? M2 x 6mm button heads? if so how high do the heads sit?
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M2-x-6-STAINLE...item255282c541

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Have you been having lessons on how to machine things?
    Id be interested to hear how you went about this one..has to be the best one so far

    All you need is a front cover now..

    Chris which bolts are you using to hold the leds down? M2 x 6mm button heads? if so how high do the heads sit?
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M2-x-6-STAINLE...item255282c541


    No lessons and probably every machinist that ever lived will be turning in their graves at some of my methods .
    Lathe and Mill abuse to be sure.

    the pics dont show the mistakes made like holes that went too deep or in the wrong place .

    Forgot to take photos during the lengthy machining / butchering .

    need to make a top with the switch in
    wont be a front cover asphericals will be glued in with the infamous serious glue .
    when I fine tune the beam at the moment I seem to have a perfect die projected so may be a bit too narrow just waiting for some glue to set before wiring it to the h6flex ..

    what I may try is leave one as it is and only defocus the other so the Xpgs will handle the near ground and one for the mid the other max distance .

    After spending 2 days butchering this piece of ali I wont be doing another one in a hurry .



    seeing as there are no pics this is a brief rundown of opps.

    after a good workout hacksawing a 90 mm length of 50 mm square bar off
    and then realising I had no way to fix it to my tiny rotary table so machine abuse no one

    Fit it in the 4 jaw chuck in the lathe to machine the 2 big holes this was fun and I had to do it on a slow speed as the bit was so inbalanced I did not want to shake the old girl to death this was repeated for the other hole .


    Then into the mill for a bit of work designing on the fly with repeated plan changes as this progressed.
    space suddenly looked very tight to fit in the H6Flex I was just going to mill a square hole but that would have cut into the led cavity so the only option was to go round .

    Que some more Lathe abuse as it just fit in the 4 jaw for some more shake rattle and make swarfe.

    With all the cavities now done it was still a chunky lump so it needed a diet I was goint to go mega minimal but reminded myself that my helmet was not aluminium like the bars so no good heatsinking to be had there .

    next came some mill abuse with a 4 mm round nosed mill to try and make fins this took the most time today as round nosed mills dont cut just as well as flat ones .


    when I had reached the deepest I could go with the mills I foolishley thought to save some more weight I would drill holes through the bits I could not get the mill to reach this went not too bad until 99 % of the way through the first hole the 4 mm drill bit snapped .

    Bugger took me an hour to get the bit out of the hole
    Repeat for another 3 times and I now have 4 broken 4 mm drillbits and 2 unfinished holes .
    Wont do that again .

    Thats about it up to the state it is in in the pics .




    Jay The bolts I used for the stars are M3 button heads and they stand proud of the star by 1.75 mm

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    No lessons and probably every machinist that ever lived will be turning in their graves at some of my methods .
    Lathe and Mill abuse to be sure.

    the pics dont show the mistakes made like holes that went too deep or in the wrong place .

    Forgot to take photos during the lengthy machining / butchering .

    need to make a top with the switch in
    wont be a front cover asphericals will be glued in with the infamous serious glue .
    when I fine tune the beam at the moment I seem to have a perfect die projected so may be a bit too narrow just waiting for some glue to set before wiring it to the h6flex ..

    what I may try is leave one as it is and only defocus the other so the Xpgs will handle the near ground and one for the mid the other max distance .

    After spending 2 days butchering this piece of ali I wont be doing another one in a hurry .



    seeing as there are no pics this is a brief rundown of opps.

    after a good workout hacksawing a 90 mm length of 50 mm square bar off
    and then realising I had no way to fix it to my tiny rotary table so machine abuse no one

    Fit it in the 4 jaw chuck in the lathe to machine the 2 big holes this was fun and I had to do it on a slow speed as the bit was so inbalanced I did not want to shake the old girl to death this was repeated for the other hole .


    Then into the mill for a bit of work designing on the fly with repeated plan changes as this progressed.
    space suddenly looked very tight to fit in the H6Flex I was just going to mill a square hole but that would have cut into the led cavity so the only option was to go round .

    Que some more Lathe abuse as it just fit in the 4 jaw for some more shake rattle and make swarfe.

    With all the cavities now done it was still a chunky lump so it needed a diet I was goint to go mega minimal but reminded myself that my helmet was not aluminium like the bars so no good heatsinking to be had there .

    next came some mill abuse with a 4 mm round nosed mill to try and make fins this took the most time today as round nosed mills dont cut just as well as flat ones .


    when I had reached the deepest I could go with the mills I foolishley thought to save some more weight I would drill holes through the bits I could not get the mill to reach this went not too bad until 99 % of the way through the first hole the 4 mm drill bit snapped .

    Bugger took me an hour to get the bit out of the hole
    Repeat for another 3 times and I now have 4 broken 4 mm drillbits and 2 unfinished holes .
    Wont do that again .

    Thats about it up to the state it is in in the pics .




    Jay The bolts I used for the stars are M3 button heads and they stand proud of the star by 1.75 mm
    Hats of to you Chris, I think it looks really good
    Wish i had room for a lathe..
    As for snapping drill bits, I always seem to snap the black ones from homebase they are crap. Mrs putt a load in my xmas stocking instead of socks
    The Gold jobber bits are pretty tuff, I got a load of 2mm and they have lasted well..

  19. #19
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    well that worked out a whole lot better than expected still got some fine tuning
    but as a helmet light its Bonkers I need to find a longer trail for these sort of beam shots

    low is good enough for most trails



    medium is stupid bright



    and High is just crazy



    there are some rings in the close up part more noticable on low but I can live with those
    I suspect they are from reflections in the led cavity so may paint the inside

    another crazy thing is on medium which is level 3 it is drawing less than half an amp so on that reckoning it should run for 5 hours from a 2.6 amp hour battery

    or just over 1 hour if on full as it draws 2.1 amps






    one other thing which is a spin off of my ham fistedness is I said I had drilled 2 holes in the wrong place well you can see them when the light is on from the back so I intend to now drill them a bit larger and fill with red epoxy for a tail light .


  20. #20
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    Wow Chris, that is a great little light. Love the way the hound has a ghost walking with it, spooooky.

  21. #21
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    Well done Troutie, very nice design.

    I do my pockets just the same way in the four jaw chuck. Try putting a brass counter weight between light body and one of the jaws to stop the vibration. It works great.

  22. #22
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    Love it!

    Got a name for it yet?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahorton
    Love it!

    Got a name for it yet?


    Hi Ahorton welcome aboard
    no name as yet but got to say thanks to you for the lenses
    do you have any still in stock as there will be a MK 2 version and also a bar one in the future .plus my riding mates are gonna hate me as I can now annoy them from further back.

    YetiBetty. good idea but I was on the last bit of thread on the jaws

  24. #24
    A waste of time it is is
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    Chris, that looks fantastic, well done.
    As for a name, what about "Elle" as in " The Body"?

    On my smart phone so can't link in what, sorry, who I am referring to but if you Google those 2 names I'm sure you'll find a suitable pic that will explain.

    Very nice looking light. How heavy is it?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72
    Wow Chris, that is a great little light. Love the way the hound has a ghost walking with it, spooooky.


    Cheers Brad72 not so little I am afraid and near to 200 grams but a heap better than I expected If you want a long range light then Ahortons lenses are great

    check out Ahortons headlight here
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...lamp-Version-2

    which I have got to admit did spark the idea for this light ( I hope you dont mind Ash )

    been doing a bit of measuring and the top of the led dome is about 9 mm from the bottom of the lense so wondering if it should go nearer


    Stu not too sure it has any erotic looks now
    something like this should work for your videoing escapades

  26. #26
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    Got it Spider eyes MK2 as just installed glow paint


  27. #27
    what a joke
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    NICE!

    What are your thoughts on a single XML+ Aspeheric and how it would throw? It would be significantly lighter for helmet mounting but would it have enough punch?
    blah blah blah

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozlongboarder
    NICE!

    What are your thoughts on a single XML+ Aspeheric and how it would throw? It would be significantly lighter for helmet mounting but would it have enough punch?

    It would certainly throw well but with out much spill which is why I included the 2 XPGs in the mix
    difficult to use 1 xml and 1 xpg if you want to use the full 3 amps

  29. #29
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    LED Driver , how did you wire it ?
    do you have 2 drivers ?

    Still looking for a smaller driver, the H6flex is huge, need about 2A.

  30. #30
    recognize the slowness
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    looks like a 'Johnny 5' to me but that is just an American movie right?

    Full specs like Schultz said please. Looks a cracker!

    JB
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rschultz101
    LED Driver , how did you wire it ?
    Picture 1 in post 15 tells you that it is a single driver running a series string like this...

    XML, parallelled XPGs, XML

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbflyfshr
    looks like a 'Johnny 5' to me but that is just an American movie right?

    Full specs like Schultz said please. Looks a cracker!

    JB


    Full specs are

    2 XML 2S leds with 30 mm aspheric lenses from Ahorton on CPF bought ages ago I now think he has similar but in 27 mm dia .

    2 XPG leds with the carclo narrow 10 mm sq optics to fill in the flood bit .

    all the leds are wired to a H6flex @ 3 amps with the 2 xpgs wired as a parallel string and in series with the 2 xmls so they get half the amps the xmls get .

    housing is hewn from a block of aluminium and without leaving space for the switch so that has been bodged with a small Mom switch from Apem and glued to the housing using a polyurathane glue called bostik serious glue which is also used to glue in the glass asphericals

    driving the whole setup is a 15 volt Li ION battery pack from www.mtbbatteries.co.uk


    it would have been nice to have 2 drivers so as to use the narrow beam on its own but that just added cost and complexity .


    glow paint from Glow-inc

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Full specs are

    2 XML 2S leds with 30 mm aspheric lenses from Ahorton on CPF bought ages ago I now think he has similar but in 27 mm dia .

    2 XPG leds with the carclo narrow 10 mm sq optics to fill in the flood bit .

    all the leds are wired to a H6flex @ 3 amps with the 2 xpgs wired as a parallel string and in series with the 2 xmls so they get half the amps the xmls get .

    housing is hewn from a block of aluminium and without leaving space for the switch so that has been bodged with a small Mom switch from Apem and glued to the housing using a polyurathane glue called bostik serious glue which is also used to glue in the glass asphericals

    driving the whole setup is a 15 volt Li ION battery pack from www.mtbbatteries.co.uk


    it would have been nice to have 2 drivers so as to use the narrow beam on its own but that just added cost and complexity .


    glow paint from Glow-inc
    Chris can you not put the switch in the driver cover like i do?
    Or being a helmet light easy to knock up a little housing out of delrin for an in line switch..
    I think i might have a few of these in the draw, could mill the legs off and use it as an inline?

  34. #34
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    Looks kind'a like some Aztec skull Indiana Jones would be interested in Impressive light output too.

    Goldigger, do you have more info on that remote switch - is it waterproof?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by HuffyPuffy
    Looks kind'a like some Aztec skull Indiana Jones would be interested in Impressive light output too.

    Goldigger, do you have more info on that remote switch - is it waterproof?
    The momontary switches i put in them are IP67 so all thats needed is a few drops of silicone when assembling them, just to cover the solder tabs..

  36. #36
    A waste of time it is is
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    Chris, what's the total vF on that setup at 2.8A? I'm thinking with the h6flex only needing 1v over vf and the relatively low vf of the leds we might be able to get away with a 3 s xml 2 p xpg setup from our 14,8v batteries.

    I think that would be where the peeing contest would end for me

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Chris can you not put the switch in the driver cover like i do?
    Or being a helmet light easy to knock up a little housing out of delrin for an in line switch..
    I think i might have a few of these in the draw, could mill the legs off and use it as an inline?
    You could be a hand model GD

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    The momontary switches i put in them are IP67 so all thats needed is a few drops of silicone when assembling them, just to cover the solder tabs..


    Yes I have a few of those Jay used one on this light just sat it in the little hole at the front of the case with some glue

    did think about the inline option but had the wired intalled before I realised it needed the switch .
    I am happy with it for my own use but would build in a more elegant solution if I do another one .I do have 4 of the lenses left

    Stu from memory the vf was about 10 volts at 3 amps


    here is a daylight shot which only shows the beam from the eyes



    it was 1 metre square @ 6 metres distance

  39. #39
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    It must be named: Bubbles.

    Great looking light.


    Mike

  40. #40
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    Had to try the barn shots as the only place handy where I could get a good distance to give it a whirl .
    low I am afraid didnt make it to the barn at 160 metres so only got medium and high




    went out to 200 metres and the camers didnt get a good pic on low or medium so only hi



    managed to get another 100 metres and still get a view of the barn on hi so this is at 300 metres



    Pretty darn impressive and my new favourite light

  41. #41
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    How was the housing heat on high the the balmy English summer fast approaching
    Last edited by brad72; 05-03-2011 at 06:32 PM.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike E.
    It must be named: Bubbles.

    Great looking light.


    Mike

    Best name ever! And with the remote switch named Conky - always telling him what to do.

  43. #43
    what a joke
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    Is it possible to save more weight and drop the to XPG's? If not could the housing be refined to save some weight? I'm thinking pure helmet light used in conjunction with a a bar light.
    blah blah blah

  44. #44
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    As emu suggested, there is always a temptation to add one more! The problem I've found is that you just don't get much value out of it. I found that going from 1 to 2 aspherics gave only a slight increase in visibility. In fact you don't really see much further, you just see the same things a little clearer. So I don't think you'll get much value out of a third XM-L.

    The only reason you might add it, is if you defocus it or use a different optic to fill in the mid-ground a bit. Looking at the beamshots, it looks like the spider eyes has the same (minor) problem that my headlight has when all LEDs are on. You can see both far and close but the beam shape isn't very smooth in between. Of course with good bar-lights this doesn't matter.


    I'm glad you like the lenses Troutie, and I couldn't be happier that my headlamp sparked the idea.

  45. #45
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    Cheers Ash I am pretty stoked with this light the photos dont do the beam justice at all
    even on the lowest setting it is good but full certainly has the wow factor .

    Yes I agree about adding another so much so that the MK 2 is already in progress and having one removed to just be a single aspheric and other lens this will be a ledil Laura for the first trial .








    I have left room to use or 2 Lflexes so each led will be switchable this light will go in to trials with a Guy who is a Search and Rescue dog handler with our mountain rescue service he wanted a light with good throw for spotting the dog at distance but complained that all the lights he has tried have too much back scatter when it is misty and raining .
    so the idea to be able to switch each on in or out will suit all conditions .

    What are your stock levels like Ash as if this light works out well I will be wanting 50 or so of the lenses.

  46. #46
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    Bloody hell Troutie, you're fast.

  47. #47
    A waste of time it is is
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Bloody hell Troutie, you're fast.
    It's sickening

    But oh so good to watch

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Cheers Ash I am pretty stoked with this light the photos dont do the beam justice at all
    even on the lowest setting it is good but full certainly has the wow factor .

    Yes I agree about adding another so much so that the MK 2 is already in progress and having one removed to just be a single aspheric and other lens this will be a ledil Laura for the first trial .








    I have left room to use or 2 Lflexes so each led will be switchable this light will go in to trials with a Guy who is a Search and Rescue dog handler with our mountain rescue service he wanted a light with good throw for spotting the dog at distance but complained that all the lights he has tried have too much back scatter when it is misty and raining .
    so the idea to be able to switch each on in or out will suit all conditions .

    What are your stock levels like Ash as if this light works out well I will be wanting 50 or so of the lenses.
    Chris that last pic looks like you used a face mill/fly cutter on the surface? I kept toying with the idea of a fly cutter, but my machine has a 30mm max on fly cutting aparently, plus i have no idea how to sharpen tool steel for the fly cutter.

    If you do get 50 of the lenses will you be supplying some to other DIY'ers?

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    It's sickening

    But oh so good to watch
    I agree, on both counts!

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Chris that last pic looks like you used a face mill/fly cutter on the surface? I kept toying with the idea of a fly cutter, but my machine has a 30mm max on fly cutting aparently, plus i have no idea how to sharpen tool steel for the fly cutter.
    That cut was faced on the lathe. You can tell from the pattern that it was done at the same setup that the bore was cut.

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