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  1. #1
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    Aspherical and XML helmet light attempt

    I have had these Aspherical lense`s in the parts drawer for nearly 2 years now I refound them during a tidy up .

    so this is the start of what I hope to be a super throwing helmet light



    Yes I know there may be comments



    Following the successful mixture of 2 xmls and 2 xpgs on my bar light
    this is the config for this light
    XMLs behind the Aspheric lenses and xpgs for some flood .

  2. #2
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    hahahahahaha!! thats crazy man, i love it
    wow, they`re some serious lenses
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  3. #3
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    first 'comment"

    Isn't the slot running the wrong way? Surely it would be better in a vertical direction

  4. #4
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    Sweet Chris, it seems you have achieved what Emu's avatar and my bike stand would look like from the front. Almost erotic art, some see eyes and a mouth, i see something else

  5. #5
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    Have you played to work out the best distance from the LED to mount the aspheric or is that going to be part of the experiment

  6. #6
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    You've got to be kiddin' me

  7. #7
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    Troutie have you tried putting some diffuser material over a bit of the aspheric to provide some flood?
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
    A few Dynamo builds and some Small battery lights

  8. #8
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    I found 15mm from the surface that the led sits on gives you a perfect pencil beam..but way to tight for anything but a dive light.. I'd guess at the beam being about 4 degrees.
    I'd say 10-12mm from the surface that the led sits on to the bottom of the aspherics should be good for a helmet light..

  9. #9
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    How about making it adjustable via a thread on the front bezel. Tight beam for fast downhills and flood beam for technical ascents, all by a simple 1/2 to full turn twist?

  10. #10
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    My new favorite light design.

  11. #11
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    first 'comment"

    Isn't the slot running the wrong way? Surely it would be better in a vertical direction

    tried that but not enough room for the 2 x 10 mm optics

    I have played about with one but nothing definite yet as to focus and they may each get a different focus to overlap the beams a little .

    Yes Brad I did think about nipping the waist in a tad
    the on the fly adjustable is beyond my abilities and attention span .


    Jay I am approx 10 mm above the led dome at the moment so can take them down a bit at a time if needed

  13. #13
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    cool!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72
    i see something else
    I see bottle bottom glasses I can't remember the name of the show (Coronation St? ) but there was a guy on TV with glasses like that..

    Troutie, I think you should just skip LED lights and go for nightvision goggles.

  15. #15
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    Update on the as yet no name light

    #



  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Update on the as yet no name light

    #


    Have you been having lessons on how to machine things?
    Id be interested to hear how you went about this one..has to be the best one so far

    All you need is a front cover now..

    Chris which bolts are you using to hold the leds down? M2 x 6mm button heads? if so how high do the heads sit?
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M2-x-6-STAINLE...item255282c541

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Have you been having lessons on how to machine things?
    Id be interested to hear how you went about this one..has to be the best one so far

    All you need is a front cover now..

    Chris which bolts are you using to hold the leds down? M2 x 6mm button heads? if so how high do the heads sit?
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M2-x-6-STAINLE...item255282c541


    No lessons and probably every machinist that ever lived will be turning in their graves at some of my methods .
    Lathe and Mill abuse to be sure.

    the pics dont show the mistakes made like holes that went too deep or in the wrong place .

    Forgot to take photos during the lengthy machining / butchering .

    need to make a top with the switch in
    wont be a front cover asphericals will be glued in with the infamous serious glue .
    when I fine tune the beam at the moment I seem to have a perfect die projected so may be a bit too narrow just waiting for some glue to set before wiring it to the h6flex ..

    what I may try is leave one as it is and only defocus the other so the Xpgs will handle the near ground and one for the mid the other max distance .

    After spending 2 days butchering this piece of ali I wont be doing another one in a hurry .



    seeing as there are no pics this is a brief rundown of opps.

    after a good workout hacksawing a 90 mm length of 50 mm square bar off
    and then realising I had no way to fix it to my tiny rotary table so machine abuse no one

    Fit it in the 4 jaw chuck in the lathe to machine the 2 big holes this was fun and I had to do it on a slow speed as the bit was so inbalanced I did not want to shake the old girl to death this was repeated for the other hole .


    Then into the mill for a bit of work designing on the fly with repeated plan changes as this progressed.
    space suddenly looked very tight to fit in the H6Flex I was just going to mill a square hole but that would have cut into the led cavity so the only option was to go round .

    Que some more Lathe abuse as it just fit in the 4 jaw for some more shake rattle and make swarfe.

    With all the cavities now done it was still a chunky lump so it needed a diet I was goint to go mega minimal but reminded myself that my helmet was not aluminium like the bars so no good heatsinking to be had there .

    next came some mill abuse with a 4 mm round nosed mill to try and make fins this took the most time today as round nosed mills dont cut just as well as flat ones .


    when I had reached the deepest I could go with the mills I foolishley thought to save some more weight I would drill holes through the bits I could not get the mill to reach this went not too bad until 99 % of the way through the first hole the 4 mm drill bit snapped .

    Bugger took me an hour to get the bit out of the hole
    Repeat for another 3 times and I now have 4 broken 4 mm drillbits and 2 unfinished holes .
    Wont do that again .

    Thats about it up to the state it is in in the pics .




    Jay The bolts I used for the stars are M3 button heads and they stand proud of the star by 1.75 mm

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    No lessons and probably every machinist that ever lived will be turning in their graves at some of my methods .
    Lathe and Mill abuse to be sure.

    the pics dont show the mistakes made like holes that went too deep or in the wrong place .

    Forgot to take photos during the lengthy machining / butchering .

    need to make a top with the switch in
    wont be a front cover asphericals will be glued in with the infamous serious glue .
    when I fine tune the beam at the moment I seem to have a perfect die projected so may be a bit too narrow just waiting for some glue to set before wiring it to the h6flex ..

    what I may try is leave one as it is and only defocus the other so the Xpgs will handle the near ground and one for the mid the other max distance .

    After spending 2 days butchering this piece of ali I wont be doing another one in a hurry .



    seeing as there are no pics this is a brief rundown of opps.

    after a good workout hacksawing a 90 mm length of 50 mm square bar off
    and then realising I had no way to fix it to my tiny rotary table so machine abuse no one

    Fit it in the 4 jaw chuck in the lathe to machine the 2 big holes this was fun and I had to do it on a slow speed as the bit was so inbalanced I did not want to shake the old girl to death this was repeated for the other hole .


    Then into the mill for a bit of work designing on the fly with repeated plan changes as this progressed.
    space suddenly looked very tight to fit in the H6Flex I was just going to mill a square hole but that would have cut into the led cavity so the only option was to go round .

    Que some more Lathe abuse as it just fit in the 4 jaw for some more shake rattle and make swarfe.

    With all the cavities now done it was still a chunky lump so it needed a diet I was goint to go mega minimal but reminded myself that my helmet was not aluminium like the bars so no good heatsinking to be had there .

    next came some mill abuse with a 4 mm round nosed mill to try and make fins this took the most time today as round nosed mills dont cut just as well as flat ones .


    when I had reached the deepest I could go with the mills I foolishley thought to save some more weight I would drill holes through the bits I could not get the mill to reach this went not too bad until 99 % of the way through the first hole the 4 mm drill bit snapped .

    Bugger took me an hour to get the bit out of the hole
    Repeat for another 3 times and I now have 4 broken 4 mm drillbits and 2 unfinished holes .
    Wont do that again .

    Thats about it up to the state it is in in the pics .




    Jay The bolts I used for the stars are M3 button heads and they stand proud of the star by 1.75 mm
    Hats of to you Chris, I think it looks really good
    Wish i had room for a lathe..
    As for snapping drill bits, I always seem to snap the black ones from homebase they are crap. Mrs putt a load in my xmas stocking instead of socks
    The Gold jobber bits are pretty tuff, I got a load of 2mm and they have lasted well..

  19. #19
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    well that worked out a whole lot better than expected still got some fine tuning
    but as a helmet light its Bonkers I need to find a longer trail for these sort of beam shots

    low is good enough for most trails



    medium is stupid bright



    and High is just crazy



    there are some rings in the close up part more noticable on low but I can live with those
    I suspect they are from reflections in the led cavity so may paint the inside

    another crazy thing is on medium which is level 3 it is drawing less than half an amp so on that reckoning it should run for 5 hours from a 2.6 amp hour battery

    or just over 1 hour if on full as it draws 2.1 amps






    one other thing which is a spin off of my ham fistedness is I said I had drilled 2 holes in the wrong place well you can see them when the light is on from the back so I intend to now drill them a bit larger and fill with red epoxy for a tail light .


  20. #20
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    Wow Chris, that is a great little light. Love the way the hound has a ghost walking with it, spooooky.

  21. #21
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    Well done Troutie, very nice design.

    I do my pockets just the same way in the four jaw chuck. Try putting a brass counter weight between light body and one of the jaws to stop the vibration. It works great.

  22. #22
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    Love it!

    Got a name for it yet?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahorton
    Love it!

    Got a name for it yet?


    Hi Ahorton welcome aboard
    no name as yet but got to say thanks to you for the lenses
    do you have any still in stock as there will be a MK 2 version and also a bar one in the future .plus my riding mates are gonna hate me as I can now annoy them from further back.

    YetiBetty. good idea but I was on the last bit of thread on the jaws

  24. #24
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    Chris, that looks fantastic, well done.
    As for a name, what about "Elle" as in " The Body"?

    On my smart phone so can't link in what, sorry, who I am referring to but if you Google those 2 names I'm sure you'll find a suitable pic that will explain.

    Very nice looking light. How heavy is it?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72
    Wow Chris, that is a great little light. Love the way the hound has a ghost walking with it, spooooky.


    Cheers Brad72 not so little I am afraid and near to 200 grams but a heap better than I expected If you want a long range light then Ahortons lenses are great

    check out Ahortons headlight here
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...lamp-Version-2

    which I have got to admit did spark the idea for this light ( I hope you dont mind Ash )

    been doing a bit of measuring and the top of the led dome is about 9 mm from the bottom of the lense so wondering if it should go nearer


    Stu not too sure it has any erotic looks now
    something like this should work for your videoing escapades

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