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  1. #1
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    Anyone use the wire/switch combo from Batteryspace? Link inside

    anyone have any reviews of this set up?

    http://www.batteryspace.com/componen...dopenwire.aspx

  2. #2
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    Trailtech are great connectors, other than that, the switch is just a regular on/off with no option for mode selection.
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  3. #3
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    batteryspace is a freaking joke. I really wanted that same inline switch once...and 7.95 isnt a bad price for it. BUT, $12.10 to ship within the US....I dont think so.

  4. #4
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    I'd need to order about 7 of them, and a bunch of other stuff too so if the shipping doesn't increase, that's not terrible. But for one..., you're right..too high.

  5. #5
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    All is want is on/off, so that works. Does the switch seem durable-ish?

    thx!

  6. #6
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    Yea I have a hard time giving places like that any business at all.

    Anyway...I think these are the same ones Scar uses on his Amoebas. They seem to work well for all that he's sold. You might wanna confirm that first though!

  7. #7
    Light freak
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    Yeah, I have used them in a few builds. Not sure what the OP is looking for as far as a review??


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  8. #8
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    My bad.., I should have been more clear... I've used a variety of connectors and switches (most are of low quality and end up breaking), and just recently stumbled onto these. They look beefy enough, but wandered what others experience was with:
    1. are the connectors "strong" i.e., they don't pop loose easily
    2. does that on/off switch have good positive feel and is it durable too.

    thanks!!
    Sam

  9. #9
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    The only thing that disturbs me in this switch is this:
    "This switch will consume 0.5W, reduce output voltage by around 0.14V "
    They definitely need a version without this "feature"
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  10. #10
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    .5W, dang.... Thanks for the catch. I'll have to do my math to make sure my battery setup can accommodate the loss. Probably so, but dang. I really don't care about an led indicator either. I agree, no need to a power eating switch, just a pass through.

    edit: only .5 watts is not that much.- .14 volts, given that my battery pack runs 4: 1.2 volt AA's = roughly 4.8 volts-.14 for the switch = 4.66 volts, not a major problem since my LED needs 3.7 to run.
    Last edited by slindblom; 02-01-2011 at 04:43 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by slindblom
    not a major problem since my LED needs 3.7 to run.
    If it's a single 3W LED, then the efficiency loss is 17%
    Looks like this switch is from old halogen times.
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  12. #12
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    watts/volts/amps damnit I get confused

    Here's the LED I use: http://ledsupply.com/05027-pwc4-200.php, 200lumen

    I run it with this driver: http://ledsupply.com/03023-d-n-1000.php

    I use 4: energizer AA NIMH batteries, these:

    http://www.energizer.com/products/re...Batteries.aspx

    right now, I get 3-4 hours run-time no problem on a fully charged battery. Do you think this switch will cause me problems? Frankly, I wonder what my current switch drains, this one:

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...44#tabsetBasic

    I want to replace the radio shack one because it is way too fragile.

    Thoughts?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by slindblom
    My bad.., I should have been more clear... I've used a variety of connectors and switches (most are of low quality and end up breaking), and just recently stumbled onto these. They look beefy enough, but wandered what others experience was with:
    1. are the connectors "strong" i.e., they don't pop loose easily
    2. does that on/off switch have good positive feel and is it durable too.

    thanks!!
    Sam

    I have expereince with a single example. Not what you call a definitive sample!

    1, The connectors are fine. I have 10 males and females. If anything, some can be a bit too tight. Several needed a light diameter reduction with fine sandpaper plus a little vegetable oil, (Extra Virgin Olive Oil in this case to not degrade the plastics, but I did not run tests) to get over the hump to lock. They would not lock otherwise. So you can fine tune them. Once 'adjusted' they require a substantial tug (think OTB, walk from the bike, tug) to release. Since I run a cable to the helmet, this is excellent for my use.

    2. The switch has a good feel through light gloves there is a feeling when it goes past center. The LED appears to be 1/4 watt with resistor. Worked (note past tense) on my nominal 12 volt NiMH and 11.1 LiPo packs.

    I bought it to shut off the helmet light if it proved to necessary. It didn't. So I used it as an extension cord. In wrapping it around the top tube I put too much strain on it. It developed an intermittent. A quick and dirty testing of the switch indicated I separated the cable in its casing near the switch housing. I cannabalized it for the connectors outboard of the wiggle spot as the shipping cost for a connector or two is atrocious unless buying a number of items.

    I might buy another if I needed the features, BUT I would avoid excess axial strain on it.

  14. #14
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    Thanks, exactly what I was looking for!

    I think I'll give 'em a go. Will post a follow-up when I get one built up.

    Happy Trails,
    Sam

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