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  1. #1
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    Another Triple XPG

    I've got me some R3 3A neutral XPGs and a spare Maxflex to turn into a bike light for a friend.
    Also have an idea of what should it look like:


    I'll probably be running MS charger and battery, to keep things cheap and simple.
    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Love the shape Toaster and with that binning I think it'll be a great light.
    Am I right in guessing Regina's?

  3. #3
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    My had is still spinning from those circles




    I'll be using Lisa2 RS 10mm optics. Don't need throw since it'll be a commuter light.

  4. #4
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    Oooooooooooh Toaster that's a very nice design idea. Could be adapted in size for various drivers, optics or LEDs.

    Good luck.

  5. #5
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    I had kicked around a similar design a while ago. Was going to call it the MF light. No, not that MF. Millenium Falcon.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Oooooooooooh Toaster that's a very nice design idea. Could be adapted in size for various drivers, optics or LEDs.

    Good luck.
    Thanks YB

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    Millin'N'Drillin

    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    No, not that MF. Millenium Falcon.
    I think I'll stick to the MF you tried to avoid since I know I WILL burn my fingers while soldering the leds in series



    You want tight?



  8. #8
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    Looking very nice! I made a jig to hold the LEDs on my last micro build. That let me solder them up outside the housing. Then put them on the jig to hold them in alignment while gluing them into the housing. Worked great to avoid the problems trying to solder 10mm stars at the bottom of a 23mm deep hole.

  9. #9
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    Looking cool Toaster, what are the holes for either side of the driver?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Looking cool Toaster, what are the holes for either side of the driver?
    Made them to loose some excess material and increase surface I think I'll drill some smaller ones where's some space left.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Looking very nice! I made a jig to hold the LEDs on my last micro build. That let me solder them up outside the housing. Then put them on the jig to hold them in alignment while gluing them into the housing. Worked great to avoid the problems trying to solder 10mm stars at the bottom of a 23mm deep hole.
    Have you got any pics of the jig? It might help me with mounting and soldering. I sure wont be happy once I glue the boards into the housing and then ruin either of the domes while soldering

  12. #12
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    jig? put a spacer under the leds so they sit just flush with the front face,
    once wired up, drop them down !
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79
    Have you got any pics of the jig? It might help me with mounting and soldering.
    I don't have my camera at the shop at the moment. I'll try to describe it. This was used with the 10mm stars like you have and it locates in the 2.2mm holes in the star.

    I cut a small block of aluminum to the size of the LED cavity.

    Drilled and tapped a pattern of M2 holes on the spacing that I wanted the LEDs at.

    Milled a clearance groove for the dome and solder pads.

    Screwed in some M2 screws so they stick out just less than the thickness of the star.

    The screws are used as "posts" that locate in the holes in the star.

    I also drilled and tapped an M3 hole in the middle of the block to put in a long screw to use as a handle.

    Solder up the wires and then fit the stars over the "posts". Then clean the base of the star and apply the thermal epoxy. Press the assembly into the housing. Clamp tightly until epoxy is cured.

    This is probably more confusing than helpful. I'll get a pic tomorrow.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 04-26-2011 at 06:39 AM.

  14. #14
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    Jig pictures
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Another Triple XPG-p1020494.jpg  

    Another Triple XPG-p1020495.jpg  

    Another Triple XPG-p1020496.jpg  


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    Was the pocket on that build right against the pcb? I generally just mill a .25mm pocket for the pcb so I don't have alignment issues.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Was the pocket on that build right against the pcb? I generally just mill a .25mm pocket for the pcb so I don't have alignment issues.
    A shallow pocket for aligning the stars is my typical practice. The real issue on my build was the depth of the pocket for the Regina reflectors,lens cover, o-ring etc being ~23 mm deep by 10mm wide. I did not want to try fit wire, needlenose pliers and soldering tip in there. Seemed very likely to slip up and damage the LED dome. By soldering all the wiring on the bench, I avoided that danger. I also did not see how I would be able to position and clamp the pre-soldered assembly into the cavity without pressing on the domes possibly causing damage. The jig worked nicely and the result was good. I was also able to apply more clamping pressure to the star than my previous builds. That should result in a thinner bond of thermal epoxy which is good for heat transfer.

  17. #17
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    I like that idea for applying equal pressure to the led and getting a better bond.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Jig pictures
    Thanks mate!

    Think I'll do the soldering when AAA sets since the pocket for the stars and optics is only 9mm deep. I also have some really pointy soldering iron tips. Will just have to find out if I have enough nerves to do the job.

  19. #19
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    Don't forget it will be a lot harder to tin the stars when they are fixed to the heatsink body

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    Done with the soldering part 1

    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Was the pocket on that build right against the pcb? I generally just mill a .25mm pocket for the pcb so I don't have alignment issues.
    Entired pocket was milled just 0.1mm larger than the "nominal" size of the stars with flat bottom, so the alignment wont be an issue since there's no place for the stars to slide away while being epoxied in. With the optics placed into the pocket there's no play at all. They just sit flush and don't even fall out, until you shake them really hard.


    Stars AA'ed and aligned

    Now for the soldering part:

    some tinned wire prepared to be cut to the right length


    looks like it fits


    job all done

    Now let's see if the optics fit:


    Well, so far so good. No domes ripped of like before and no burnt skin.

    There must be something wrong

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79

    Well, so far so good. No domes ripped of like before and no burnt skin.

    There must be something wrong
    Toaster don't say that until you've turned it on mate.

    Not wishing that on you just every time think something is going to plan, someone changes the plan on me

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Toaster don't say that until you've turned it on mate.

    Not wishing that on you just every time think something is going to plan, someone changes the plan on me
    Well It's actually all wired up and tested, so I could set up maxflex'es UI, just didn't feel to upload the pics.

    Still need to make the driver compartment cover, which will include the mom switch. Maybe I'll post some beam shots of this little bugger tomorrow.

  23. #23
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    Well done Toaster. I like this design a lot.

  24. #24
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    Me to. I think I'll make some more of this kind in different dimensions with different optics and leds

    How about naming it UFO (Unidentified Flashing Object)?

  25. #25
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    Very nice job
    it has stuck in my mind the name of PUCK, as a hockey pallet. Maybe the same proportions...
    So the name should be : "The Lightning puck "

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