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  1. #1
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    Finally built up a 35mm easy2led housing.
    Went with the XML2 T6 3A from Cutter and a B3Flex. CUTE-3-SS optics.

    Started building a battery pack with some laptop cells and was just going to solder the cells together but got scared and decided to use some digikey holders instead. Built up a 14.8V pack with laptop cells that were 2200mah and built a second pack with new NCR18650B from Fastech. Had to add some solder to the holders as the unprotected cells are too short. Used a PCM from batteryspace (PCB-S4A5-GS). Got some 94mm heat shrink tubing from all-battery. It was a little too big but worked out okay. Could have probably gone with 80mm.

    Only running the driver at 1500mA as I saw a few posts on here that said the housing couldn't handle much more than that.

    The T6 3A tint is definitely more "halogen" like as compared to the U2 1C tint on my single XML2 on the helmet. I like it so far although only one ride on it.

    Some pics of the build:
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1378875384.408764.jpg
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1378875416.258336.jpg
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1378875452.825410.jpg

    Pack all wired up. I wrapped them with self fusing silicon tape and liquid tape around the wires.
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1378875511.758520.jpg
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1378875571.308477.jpg
    Last edited by Fourtrax; 09-11-2013 at 07:37 AM.

  2. #2
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    very nice, looks like a really straightforward build! How are you attaching it to the bars/ helmet? Looks like it could easily deal with more than 1.5A per emitter, crank it up and find out for us

    Oh, and car vacuum pipe fittings make great caps for balance plugs. You can usually get a variety of sizes and they're quite flexible.

  3. #3
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    Thanks for the hint on the vacuum plugs. I'll have to find some and try it out.

    I'm using a light and motion handlebar mount from one of their HID lights. I need to fabricate a go pro type mount so I can try out the light on my motorcycle helmet. I'll probably up the current if running with my quad as I'll be moving a lot faster. I set the cutoff at 70C, is 60C better to prevent damage?

    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1378946780.899597.jpg35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1378946797.166173.jpg

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
    Thanks for the hint on the vacuum plugs. I'll have to find some and try it out.

    I'm using a light and motion handlebar mount from one of their HID lights. I need to fabricate a go pro type mount so I can try out the light on my motorcycle helmet. I'll probably up the current if running with my quad as I'll be moving a lot faster. I set the cutoff at 70C, is 60C better to prevent damage?
    that's a nice looking mount, looks like it should be pretty sturdy. No idea on the GoPro adapter, other than that Scar (of Amoeba fame) uses them and that someone else on here had one 3D printed. Might be worth digging around to see if you can find some details.

    funny thing about those vacuum caps is that I've only used it on one of my lights, the others have a piece of road bike inner tube zip tied on to the wires and folded over the plug (held in place with a rubber band). Looks a bit ghetto, but it works

    70C should be fine, I'm pretty sure that's what I've had mine set at for the last 3 years or so. You're looking at ~90C at the emitter for that temperature at the driver and LEDs will work happily (if less efficiently) at >100C. Cree even rates their LED output at 85C now, to more reflect the temperatures they'll be running at.

  5. #5
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    I did the 3D printed GoPro mount. it's on my helmet light with the integrated switch. I was worried about temperature if I ran the triple at 3 amps so was planning on carving one out of Aluminum.

    Good to know about 70C. Wish I had a wind speed meter so I could figure out how fast I needed to go to keep things cool depending on the air temp. Although I am sure there are some formulas out there to calculate based on surface area, wind speed and temperature. That might be some interesting research.

  6. #6
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    ah well, that's one of the benefits of increasing age - I can start blaming my terrible memory on senility instead of being useless at remembering stuff Or is 35 too early to get away with that?

    Extra thermal mass won't hurt for cooling and it probably won't make any difference in terms of weight if you're using a full face. I just like the idea of 3D printing

    As for thermal modeling, some of the 3D modeling programs offer that feature, although it eats up processing power by all accounts, especially so the more accurate you want it. I just figured out my trip point the old school way of going riding on hot nights and finding a temp trip level that got me up the climbs on medium without tripping. I'd go about finding the max power level the same way.

  7. #7
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    I'm running mine at 3A for some time now with no Problems..... MTB/Roadbike use!
    ..just ride...

  8. #8
    Hack Racer
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    beautiful build.

    I'm struggling to think of a reason why a 35mm housing will be better than the 20mm housing... I have the RX-labs aka Quazzle L334 in a 20mm easy2led housing...

    Does optics with 35mm OD yield better performance than 20mm optics?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers! View Post
    Does optics with 35mm OD yield better performance than 20mm optics?
    Depends on what you like. Larger optics usually are capable of longer throw.

  10. #10
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    In addition to the optics, I am reasonably sure the 20mm easy2led housing would not dissipate enough heat to run a triple XM-L @ 3A. I have not heard of anyone making a 20 mm star for triple XM-L

    [edit]Still haven't seen 20mm triple, but I did find a 22mm 9 x XM-L[/edit]
    Last edited by find_bruce; 09-18-2013 at 06:19 AM.

  11. #11
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    Picked up the Drift Go-Pro mount from BH photo so I could mount the light on my ATV helmet. Works great with the 35mm housing. I had to add a washer between the thumb screw and the mount as it was bottoming out in the housing before it was tight.
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1382222665.818781.jpg
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1382222683.718093.jpg
    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1382222692.117152.jpg

  12. #12
    I ride a Swarf
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    Ha! I've been thinking how to mount a light on a gopro mount! I have an eady2led on the way and I already have that tripod gopro adapter!!! Why didn't I think of that!

    Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  13. #13
    I ride a Swarf
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    ooooh my housing just turned up ....looks really good. Now to start with the MTG2 build
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  14. #14
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    Good timing! I haven't used the mount yet on the helmet but I will in a couple weeks.

    For anyone using this housing, is this typical? I know I have read this housing doesn't handle heat well. I've got arctic silver on the threads.

    39C-40C case temp at 2.5A and fan blowing. Light seems to level off at this temp and could continue to run with the fan on. With fan off, case temp at 55C and tripped the 70C shutoff. Since case temp only got to 55C, I am assuming thermal transfer isn't too great or is this typical?

    At 3A, case temp got to 45C with fan blowing and tripped the temp sensor set at 70C. I assume at 3A the housing couldn't shed the heat fast enough, or just poor thermal transfer. hence the larger delta to the temp cutoff.

    The fan wasn't that large and it is 75F in the house.

    35mm Easy2Led build-imageuploadedbytapatalk1384020446.426429.jpg

  15. #15
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    Might try my cateye mount first as it fits in the M4 hole.

    3 xml2s at 3 amps is quite a lot of power to dissipate. A housing that size will get warm with that going on. If it warms up quickly then that suggests the heat is transferring from the pill well.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  16. #16
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    When I have tested my builds on my own housings there has never been more than 5C between the case and the trip point using Taskled drivers. If the thermal path for the driver is not too good you'll see a large delta between case and trip temps. How did you mount your driver?

  17. #17
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    I used arctic alumina adhesive with the aluminum standoff from taskled.

    With poor thermal path for the driver I would have thought it would be the other way around. Heat isn't transferring to the driver well so the case heats up more than the driver before it finally trips. Although if the driver had poor thermal path then maybe the driver itself is getting hot from running at 3A rather than the heat from the LEDs.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
    I used arctic alumina adhesive with the aluminum standoff from taskled.

    With poor thermal path for the driver I would have thought it would be the other way around. Heat isn't transferring to the driver well so the case heats up more than the driver before it finally trips. Although if the driver had poor thermal path then maybe the driver itself is getting hot from running at 3A rather than the heat from the LEDs.
    Have you checked to make sure the driver didn't pop loose?

    The driver running at 3A has to transfer it's heat to the housing and if it can't it will trip before the housing gets to the same temp.

    This definitely sounds like a heat transfer problem, just need to figure out if it's LEDs to housing or driver to housing or both.

  19. #19
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    I checked the driver and it's still attached good. Possibly I put the Article alumina on too thick but not sure. I checked it again and it hit the cutoff at 57.5 on the housing. I'll pull the back cover off and see if I can get a reading on the driver and see how different it is.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
    I checked it again and it hit the cutoff at 57.5 on the housing. I'll pull the back cover off and see if I can get a reading on the driver and see how different it is.
    You'll measure the temperature with a thermocouple or an IR thermometer? It is a good idea to measure the temperature on the LED side too.
    What is the size of the cable gland you used?
    CNC LED light housing for DIY projects

  21. #21
    I ride a Swarf
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    I haven't tested mine thoroughly yet, but mine is built and running with an MTG2 at 3A

    Indoors with no fan it tripped set to 70 degrees on my B3flex. With fan on it didn't trip.

    Outside in approx 3-4C, very very light breeze stationary it didn't trip at 70, and was warm to the touch. it did trip when set to 50. Riding around it felt cool to the touch.

    Ive ordered another one to do a 3 x xml2 set up for a more thowy companion.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  22. #22
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    It's a cheap IR thermometer.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html

    So I checked the driver with the cover off. Driver got to 67.5C and outer casing hit 59.5C before the level dropped. I think I am still in the "break-in" period on the Arctic Silver as I only put it in before I started doing the temp measurements and the temp delta keeps getting smaller.

    Cable gland is a Hummel PG7. Got it from work but link to one here. It holds the magicshine cable fine. It's the 3-6.5mm version. http://www.sealconusa.com/strainreli...4_npt_std.html

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
    It's a cheap IR thermometer.
    If possible, you should check the temps with thermocouples. Due to varying emissivity, IR thermometers can give inconsistent results when measuring different surface types.

    http://www.scigiene.com/pdfs/428_Inf...ytablesrev.pdf

  24. #24
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    35mm Easy2Led build

    I don't have access to a thermocouple so my IR thermometer will have to suffice. Good to know about the emissivity info though.

  25. #25
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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    Here's my just completed build. MT-G2 driven at 5A by a TaskLED h6Flex powered by 4S LiPo pack. Power consumption is approximately 40 watts and it gets hot pretty fast! Will trip the 70C thermal protection in 140 seconds inside with no fan... but should be fine outside with some airflow.


    35mm Easy2Led build-dsc_0020.jpg35mm Easy2Led build-dsc_0016.jpg35mm Easy2Led build-dsc_0035.jpg35mm Easy2Led build-dsc_0038.jpg35mm Easy2Led build-dsc_0022.jpg35mm Easy2Led build-dsc_0043.jpg35mm Easy2Led build-dsc_0010.jpg
    Last edited by kwarwick; 11-19-2013 at 08:14 PM.

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