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  1. #1
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    3-up XP-E board wired in parallel

    Hey all, I have a request for a thrower from my wife, so I'd like to make her one with a Cutter
    triple XP-E board and narrow optic.

    I'll be running it from an L-flex, so I need to wire this one in parallel.
    Anybody done this yet? Space will be tight inside the Easy2LED housing and under the optic, so I'd appreciate advice as to where to run the wires.



    I should be able to do the soldering no problem under my work microscope.

    TIA

  2. #2
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    If you have the latest rev. of lflex, then you can wire these in series. If not, check Vf of each individual LED. If Vfs are really close like 0.01-0.03V then you don't need to use resistors, otherwise you do.

    Bring two leads throug the hole of the body up to the pcb, then wire paralels with thiner gauge wire. Use some nail varnish to isolate the soldering points.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79 View Post
    If you have the latest rev. of lflex, then you can wire these in series. If not, check Vf of each individual LED. If Vfs are really close like 0.01-0.03V then you don't need to use resistors, otherwise you do.

    Bring two leads throug the hole of the body up to the pcb, then wire paralels with thiner gauge wire. Use some nail varnish to isolate the soldering points.
    I need to wire in parallel as all the battery packs are 3.7v.

    Oh boy... Not sure how I check Vf. I hadn't thought about having to wire in resistors.

    If it comes to that it's probably time to throw in the towel- I'll never get them to fit in there.

    I was just looking for a suggested wiring pattern to wire them up in parallel for the cleanest job.

  4. #4
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    I'm running 6 XPGs in a 2S3P configuration on an lflex with no problems.

  5. #5
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    The study du jour: can one's reputation be artificially inflated by simply putting a request for rep in one's sig?

  6. #6
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    Is that the 20mm triple? Not really a thrower at 16 degrees. Better off with a single LED with a tight optic.
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
    A few Dynamo builds and some Small battery lights

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by borrower View Post
    Thanks, the second one should be do-able. Wasn't sure if there was room to cross the wires over each other.

    As for throw, my former L332 triple with narrow optic was by far my best thrower. The key is the small XPE die. We'll see if this one throws as well once I get it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I'll be running it from an L-flex, so I need to wire this one in parallel.
    Anybody done this yet? Space will be tight inside the Easy2LED housing and under the optic, so I'd appreciate advice as to where to run the wires.TIA
    Have you asked Cutter if they can make up a parallel board? They seem to offer custon board configurations. Just sayin'...
    Savvas

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by savvas View Post
    Have you asked Cutter if they can make up a parallel board? They seem to offer custon board configurations. Just sayin'...
    Savvas
    Double the price- I may regret not paying it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Double the price- I may regret not paying it.
    PCB would be same price but someone needs to cover toolcost
    Cheers
    WeLight

    Cutter Electronics Pty Ltd www.cutter.com.au

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeLight View Post
    PCB would be same price but someone needs to cover toolcost
    Oh, I'm not complaining at all, quite the contrary- I think I will find it would have been a great bargain to get it pre-configured. We'll see how it goes once it reaches Canada.

    Incidentally, great tech support from you guys at Cutter with this order.

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    Well, the board arrived and I got it wired up with silicone wire. Thank goodness for my operating microscope.

    We'll see if she lights up and fits the optic OK.

    Would have been easier with thinner wire.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Would have been easier with thinner wire.
    +1 on that! That had to be tough. What gauge wire did you use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Would have been easier with thinner wire.
    For those small distances, wire could have been much, much thinner with no negative effect - something like 26-24 gauge is what I would use in that case. I get all of my Teflon (PTFE) coated wires from here:
    PTFE High Temperature Stranded Wire

    Will

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    +1 on that! That had to be tough. What gauge wire did you use?
    Not sure what gauge it is, but it's 1.65 mm diameter including insulation. 18g perhaps?
    At least it was nice flexible wire.

    The next thinner silicone wire I have is too thin, 0.14mm signal wire from Lux-rc.

  16. #16
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    wow, that looks like a complete bugger to do! How many times during the process did the "and it was only X$ to get it pre-wired from Cutter"?! Neat job though.

    As for different gauges of wire, old computer PSUs, Magicshine cables and various household electronics (your laptop doesn't need that power cable does it love? Whisk, smack) are really good sources. I keep all my bits in a shopping bag.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    wow, that looks like a complete bugger to do! How many times during the process did the "and it was only X$ to get it pre-wired from Cutter"?! Neat job though.

    As for different gauges of wire, old computer PSUs, Magicshine cables and various household electronics (your laptop doesn't need that power cable does it love? Whisk, smack) are really good sources. I keep all my bits in a shopping bag.
    Nah, it wasn't too bad- I'm used to the scope and precision work- but if I needed more I'd spend the extra few $ and get it pre-wired from Cutter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    As for different gauges of wire, old computer PSUs, Magicshine cables and various household electronics (your laptop doesn't need that power cable does it love? Whisk, smack) are really good sources. I keep all my bits in a shopping bag.
    Don't feel bad - although I don't keep mine in a shopping bag, I do the same, and save most/all of the wires as well. I was recently replacing the pull-string type switch on one of my overhead garage/shop fluorescent lights, and the 120V rated wire I needed was in my storage depot

    But since I do so much work for others, I do also buy wire from the supplier listed above, since the Teflon/PFTE as a higher melting point than ordinary wires.

    Will

  19. #19
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    so - on a Lflex - you'll be setting it @ 3500ma to deliver ~1150ma to each LED, correct? Should deliver what, about 1200-1300 lumen total output?

    I ask cause I've got a couple of XP-G2 triples coming, and just got 4 Easy2Led housings in the mail this week. Hadn't decided on drivers yet.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    so - on a Lflex - you'll be setting it @ 3500ma to deliver ~1150ma to each LED, correct? Should deliver what, about 1200-1300 lumen total output?

    I ask cause I've got a couple of XP-G2 triples coming, and just got 4 Easy2Led housings in the mail this week. Hadn't decided on drivers yet.
    I'll be setting it on 3000 ma max, in multimode for 5 brightness settings.
    3500 is probably too much for the battery pwm, and the lights aren't that efficient there.

  21. #21
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    Light's all done. I used an Easy2DIY housing, and with the small footprint of the triple optic it all fit in the shallow end, leaving lots of room in the deep end for driver, switch and cable gland.

    I really like the light- nice narrow beam, good tint. It doesn't seem any dimmer than my XML lights, but there is less spill so it wouldn't work as a bar light.

    Wiring the LEDs in parallel was a pain, but after that it was the easiest build ever, and may end up as my favorite light. I had liked the narrow beam of my XPE triple with Quazzle L332 board, but this one has all the functionality of the l-flex with a beam almost as narrow.

    Might be worth the $ to get Cutter to do the parallel wiring. I am keenly awaiting the triple XPG-2 beam shots- if it's a good beam it may be the optimum helmet light.

  22. #22
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    Here's how the light turned out.
    I used my usual bracket but with a Cateye mount rather than the Dual-Lock.




  23. #23
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    Looks good

  24. #24
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    Looks great Ofroad'bent!


    ****

  25. #25
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    This build came out nicely because there was plenty of room for driver and switch in the back end as the optic was so small.
    I'll post a link to my latest Easy2LED build with XML and lcustom back cap.

    I went with the Cateye attachment and a DIY helmet mount as it's easier to attach to other helmets.
    I made a matching mount on a headband too.

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