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  1. #1
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    2011 Collection 22mm ID Chassis

    Raw


    Anodized


    Bits


    Built Boom



    Built Ledil LM1 diffuse


    Also built one with a Regina and XPG running at 1.9 Amps……….


    Small light with ~22mm inside diameter.

    Slug for light with ~22mm inside diameter.

    22mm flat glass
    Switch
    Driver

  2. #2
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    very neat, you've been busy

    is that a 2p2s MC-E? where'd you get it from and did you wire it yourself?

    oh, and XP-G at 1.9A! Still, plenty of surface area...

  3. #3
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    hmmmm I wonder about running 20mm 3x XP-G in a similar set up. I built my first one in the copper pipe style, but think the alum ones with fins look way more skookum.

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    I order the stars as either individually addressable or parallel.
    When I use the individually addressable stars I wire them 2p2s.


    (That's the 35mm ID slug, but the same can be done on the 22mm ID slug.)
    I can drive that with one or two of the cheap kaidomain/DX drivers depending on how hard I want to drive things.
    With the parallel stars I use the listed DX driver above.
    The triple light engines will fit fine and cooling seems to not be an issue.
    The 35mm ID was easy to cut. The 22mm ID was sort of nerve wracking.


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    Last 2 photos look kinda scary...

  6. #6
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    thanks for the info odtexas.

    as to the scary pics, at least you're not using a Li-ion cell to push the housing through the saw, AAs are much safer

  7. #7
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    At least you weren't unaware of the potential safety hazard.

    I am tempted. I think I'll build a shuttle with a dowel through the tube being machined and an arch over the top, with both connected to front and back shoes. Use the guides in the fence and deck with front and rear outriggers to the table guide with enough clearance to feed the piece plus clearance before and after the feedthrough. A shuttle woud allow handles, too. Wood is cheap. Hospital visits, aren't.

    You've shown that it takes a few attempts to dial the technique in. So the time spent making the shuttle should be made up for in fewer 'duds', (hopefully). A welder's mask, gloves, and heavy clothing would still be a very good idea. Much better to not be needed and used, than not used and needed.

    Another thought: Don't they extrude aluminum tube with decorative grooves/fins for curtain rods? Haven't googled here, but has anyone used such tubing for lights?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    thanks for the info odtexas.

    as to the scary pics, at least you're not using a Li-ion cell to push the housing through the saw, AAs are much safer
    Friggin funny man.............

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    I am tempted. I think I'll build a shuttle with a dowel through the tube being machined and an arch over the top, with both connected to front and back shoes. Use the guides in the fence and deck with front and rear outriggers to the table guide with enough clearance to feed the piece plus clearance before and after the feedthrough. A shuttle woud allow handles, too. Wood is cheap. Hospital visits, aren't.

    You've shown that it takes a few attempts to dial the technique in. So the time spent making the shuttle should be made up for in fewer 'duds', (hopefully). A welder's mask, gloves, and heavy clothing would still be a very good idea. Much better to not be needed and used, than not used and needed.

    Another thought: Don't they extrude aluminum tube with decorative grooves/fins for curtain rods? Haven't googled here, but has anyone used such tubing for lights?
    When cutting the rounds I slice the top and bottom flat with the stock tube about 2ft long.

    I stand to the side, where the yellow arrows are at, of the tablesaw and keep one hand in front of the blade and one behind it.


    Then cut your section to the proper length and fin each piece individually. The blade is only up about an 1/8 inch when finning. Very little drag is felt on the light body with a pass that shallow.

    Went to route hunting extrusions when starting out a few years back. Just found it easier to cut my own. If you find any interesting extrusion though please feel free to post up.

  10. #10
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    Just found this, thought you guys might find it interesting!

    (It's a safety table saw that stops the blade when you touch it)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMD3a...layer_embedded
    Last edited by MrLee; 12-22-2010 at 05:50 AM.

  11. #11
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    Very cool.. Wonder what it would think of aluminum.
    When the ano is gone, being cut, ali does tend to be conductive.......

  12. #12
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    Very cool lights!

    One question: DX says the driver is 25mm. Is that a typo, or do you use a different driver in the 22mm ID pipe?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Very cool.. Wonder what it would think of aluminum.
    When the ano is gone, being cut, ali does tend to be conductive.......
    Just had a look at their website -
    "7. Can I cut conductive materials?
    Yes. You can operate the saw in Bypass Mode which deactivates the safety system's braking feature, allowing you to cut aluminum and other known conductive materials. If you are unsure if material you need to cut is conductive, you can make test cuts using Bypass Mode to determine if it will activate the safety system's brake. "
    Still, a great product.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by langen
    Very cool lights!

    One question: DX says the driver is 25mm. Is that a typo, or do you use a different driver in the 22mm ID pipe?
    Nope. Do you know of any DIY who doesn't modify anything and everything they can.

    Here is the mod.


  15. #15
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    please don't tell me you did that with your bench saw !

  16. #16
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    Just some Diagonal Wire Cutters.

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    what driver to run the XPG? Did you use the same one and add a resistor to change the output?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Just some Diagonal Wire Cutters.
    phew!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsigone
    what driver to run the XPG? Did you use the same one and add a resistor to change the output?


    Just remove the R1 sense resistor and it will knock the current down to around 1900 mA.
    This is a picture of the driver with the R1 resistor removed

  20. #20
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    [QUOTE=odtexas]Just some Diagonal Wire Cutters.[QUOTE]

    Boiy I'm glad it wasn't the chainsaw!

  21. #21
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    So how are you keeping the flashlight glass in?
    "It looks flexy"

  22. #22
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    Mix up a small amount of epoxy.

    Set glass in light.

    Using a toothpick I work small amounts of epoxy all the way around the glass, light body junction. The epoxy it just thin enough to fill the small gap, but too thick to run down past the glass.
    Usually working 2 to 4 mm of edge at a time. Takes a minute or so, but the results look much better than the silicone.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas


    Just remove the R1 sense resistor and it will knock the current down to around 1900 mA.
    This is a picture of the driver with the R1 resistor removed

    Funny! I have the exact same driver and with no mods it put's out only 2A at 3V. I wired my MC-E directly and at 4.2V it sucked exactly 4.25A with no problem. Do I need to mod the driver and add another sense resistor over the R100 or R400, to get approx. 3A?

  24. #24
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    I always run 7.4 volt Lithium Ions with the driver so maybe its the voltage differential in batteries causing a current change in the driver. Also the resistance of the led will cause the current to change as well.

    One of our resident experts on this driver is mhan.

    This if from the 2011 Collection 35mm ID thread and it addresses the change in current, and components, that you are looking for.

    Quote Originally Posted by mhahn@hvc.rr.com
    Here's a thread where I talk about improving the MagicShine driver: First Impressions of DX SSC P7 Bike Light, might be helpful reading.

    The small 6 pin IC on the board is the main controller chip: http://www.micro-bridge.com/data/semi-micro/SM5241.pdf I haven't managed to find an english version yet.

    You can get some 0.16 ohm 1206 current sense resistors from Digikey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...e=RHM.16SCT-ND That should give you about 2.5 amps to the LED.

    If you want to get close to 3 amps, the best you'll be able to do is about 3.08 amps using two 0.13 ohm resistors: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...e=RHM.13QCT-ND or http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...e=RHM.13SCT-ND

    Here's a diode I use in some of my drivers that should work on this: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...-E3/52TGICT-ND

    Since all the parts on the driver board get pretty hot, I'd recommend providing some kind of thermal path to the sides of the housing. Perhaps coat the whole mess in Artica Alumina epoxy, I have never tried that though. I use a special hot melt glue to coat all the parts on my custom driver, and add enuff that there is contact with my housing.

    Mark

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    I always run 7.4 volt Lithium Ions with the driver so maybe its the voltage differential in batteries causing a current change in the driver. Also the resistance of the led will cause the current to change as well.

    One of our resident experts on this driver is mhan.

    This if from the 2011 Collection 35mm ID thread and it addresses the change in current, and components, that you are looking for.
    I've been testing on my DC power supply with and without driver. Bee'n pushing the driver from 5V up to 12V and there was no difference in output always 3V 2A. Maybe I will try with a pot instead of sense resistor to get the desired and adjustable output.

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