I am considering a 2003 or 2004 (not sure) Explosif as a SS. The frame is a 19 inch. I am 5'11.5" with a 32" inseam. I tend to like a more upright position, at least on my 5-Spot, and am thinking that I will run a 110ish stem. Is the 19" or 20" the better size for me? Will the difference be de minimus? I think the only difference is .5" on the top tube.
Perhaps a 19. But you might want to try an 18 also (if possible) just to see which you prefer.
18 would be more upright cos top tube is slightly shorter.
I'm same height as you (but slightly longer legs) and would go for a 19. I would find an 18 too small and a 20 too big. A 20 is for 6ft2 and above IMO.
We are the same size and I'm riding a 19. It fits me good. I'm running a 100mm stem with a off set seat post. Saddle is shoved back to the rear of the bike. I prefer to keep most of my weight back on a bike. Sometimes I wonder if a 20 would be a option. The 19 inch frame is still small enough that I feel like I can 'Manhandle" the bike around when I get in a little bit of trouble. I don't think I could do this with a 20.
Get a 2004 (True Temper tubbing)/2005 (Dedacci tubbing) frame, those are the ones with sliding dropouts.
I'm 5'8" and run a 18" with a 90mm stem so based on that I'll say that a 20" with a shorter stem might work best for you unless you like smaller frames and longer stems.
Also, that frame was designed around a 80mm suspension corrected rigid fork, if you want to run a suspension fork you can go up to 100mm without voiding the warranty.
Iï've got an 05 Explossif, and I'm 5'10" and the 20" fits me perfectly. I'd have to check but I think the earlier True Temper bikes are sized similarly, but I use that term loosely as the geometry from year to year has changed a bit, or at least Kona has changed the #'s. But if you look at those #'s from 18"-20" the TT length changes 1", and the stand over/head tube length grow about 2". So think of them as all a large frame with 3 top tube options. And also don't worry about a 100mm fork on these frames. I've talked it over with Kona's tech guy, and it's been discussed in the Kona threads, and they seem to have designed the frames at a compromise between 80-100mm forks. I guess a 90mm fork would be perfect. Their reasoning was that the difference between the two isn't that much if you take into consideration that you run much more sag on a 100mm fork than you do on a 80mm. And if you get one of the later sliding drop forks you can tweek the wheel base also. The later sliding drop frames are more disk friendly too, but I think the tubing and paint quality is not as nice as the earlier ones.
20 is overkill for a 6ft person. 19 would be better.
Besides, he said he wants a "more upright position". Both a 19in and a 20in will have him stretched out like a racer. If he wants upright, he should buy a smaller (18) Kona. Better still, he should buy a 19in Scott or similar. Kona is not a short upright design. A 19in/20in Kona is about as long as they get i.e. stretched out racer.
I'm 6ft with a 35 inseam.. I wouldn't go near a 20 cos it would be too tall. But I'd happily go for a 19in Fisher which is as tall as a 19in Kona (centre to top and BB drop) but as long (24in effective) as a 20in Kona. But this is a stretched out position even with long arms. A 24in effective top tube is as long as it gets. And a sub 23in effective top tube is what I would consider upright (for a 6 footer).
The 20" Kona is listed at 32" standover, and I have an inch of clearance with a 100mm fork, 2.1 Mythos, flat footed with out shoes(I just checked) and I have a 32" inseam. So as I mentioned before you can't use Kona's numbers as an absolute. I'd say find a Kona dealer and take out a few XC hardtails and check it out, outside of the Internet. I personally like the 20's longer top tube and I'm not super stretched out, I used a stem with a ten degree rise and a 1.5" rise bar to get more upright. But that's me, go ride a few Kona's.
The 20" Kona is listed at 32" standover, and I have an inch of clearance with a 100mm fork, 2.1 Mythos, flat footed with out shoes(I just checked) and I have a 32" inseam. So as I mentioned before you can't use Kona's numbers as an absolute. I'd say find a Kona dealer and take out a few XC hardtails and check it out, outside of the Internet. I personally like the 20's longer top tube and I'm not super stretched out, I used a stem with a ten degree rise and a 1.5" rise bar to get more upright. But that's me, go ride a few Kona's.
You are still missing the point. They just don't make bikes longer than 20in Kona's. Kona is 'up there' with the longest of them. A 20in Kona is one of the longest mountain bikes in the world.
He said he wanted an upright position. Somewhere along the lines the specification is wrongly specced and the poster needs to clarify what he is looking for.
I still reckon a 20in Kona is too big for a 6ft person with a 32 inseam. A 19 is more than adequate. A 19in Gary Fisher or Airborne might be better still.
32 standover is too much for a 32 inseam. In shoes, I get 5 inches of standover at 6ft on a Gary Fisher 19in. At 6ft with a 35 inseam, I would also opt for a 19in Kona. I would leave the 20in Kona for those 6ft2in and above.
They just don't make bikes longer than 20in Kona's. Kona is 'up there' with the longest of them. A 20in Kona is one of the longest mountain bikes in the world.
Are you still talking top tubes? Because the 20" Kona, your Genesis 19" and a Trek 8000 all have a 24.1" listed top tube. If you are talking wheel base the sliding drop bikes are adjustable, and the listed lengths are 16.7." And do you really need 5 in of stand-over, you are right that 32" stand over is too much for a 32 in inseam. My point was that the listed height of 32 is high, so says the bike in the room with me. Go ride a few and take arm chair frame builders with a grain of salt, myself included.
Are you still talking top tubes? Because the 20" Kona, your Genesis 19" and a Trek 8000 all have a 24.1" listed top tube. If you are talking wheel base the sliding drop bikes are adjustable, and the listed lengths are 16.7." And do you really need 5 in of stand-over, you are right that 32" stand over is too much for a 32 in inseam. My point was that the listed height of 32 is high, so says the bike in the room with me. Go ride a few and take arm chair frame builders with a grain of salt, myself included.
At 6ft, you are still unusual in preferring a 20in option. It's almost unheard of.
Also, the point remains. Upright. He wanted upright. A 24in top tube can never be upright. He said upright. He wanted more upright. 24in is never wever ever upright. Did he say upright. Why yes indeedy. He said upright.
If he wants a more upright position an 18" with a high degree stem (15d) might be better than a 19 or 20 because of the TT lenght but who am I to discuss geometry.
Dirdir, go to the closest Kona dealer and test ride any of their hardtails starting with the 18 to see in which you feel more confy, then order your Unit/Explosiv based on your test ride; that's the best advise I can give.
I'm 6'1", and prefer frames on the smaller side. I have Konas in both 19" and 20" sizes, and typically prefer the 19" frames. Where I ride typically, we have pretty tight terrain. The smaller frame size helps the bike feel a bit quicker through the trees. When I lived in Boulder, Colorado, I preferred frames a bit larger, because on the more wide-open trails out there (ie. higher speeds), the larger frame feels more stable at speed.
Since you're a couple of inches shorter than me (primarily in the legs, it sounds like) I'd put you on either an 18 or 19, and let you choose which feels better. obviously this isn't an option on a used frame, but if it feels comfortable, that should be your guiding light.
Thanks everyone. I did not intend this to turn into a frame size war. I do prefer a more upright position. In addition, the choice I have is for a 19" frame. I am not getting a new one. If it fits after it is built, I am likely to get it. Just wanted to make sure 19" was within range, which it looks like it is.
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