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Thread: Taro?

  1. #1
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    Taro?

    Anyone one one yet? What's the bike weigh?
    On paper this looks like my next ride, just waiting for some feedback.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mackie View Post
    Anyone one one yet? What's the bike weigh?
    On paper this looks like my next ride, just waiting for some feedback.
    Thanks.
    Subscribed. I'm very interested in this bike as well.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  3. #3
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    Me three - looks like exactly what I'm looking for - Honzo is on the list too....

    mudhen
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  4. #4
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    frame only?

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    Quote Originally Posted by elwoodturner View Post
    frame only?
    Almost any Kona can be purchased frame only. Check with your Kona dealer.
    konahonzo

  6. #6
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    ^^3.5 hrs away.
    if/when someone gets a quote, please chime in.
    if it was competitive with, say an on- one.......

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by elwoodturner View Post
    ^^3.5 hrs away.
    if/when someone gets a quote, please chime in.
    if it was competitive with, say an on- one.......
    Give these guys a call, I bought Kona frames from both with great success and service. All over the phone and they shipped to Chicago.

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  8. #8
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    I got quoted $450 from The Path. I ordered a Satori, don't need another bike for sure, but still want a Taro for no good reason.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by appleSSeed View Post
    I got quoted $450 from The Path. I ordered a Satori, don't need another bike for sure, but still want a Taro for no good reason.
    No more Horsethief?

    How much was the Satori?
    konahonzo

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    No more Horsethief?

    How much was the Satori?
    $1075 shipped. I'm going to sell the HT before I ride it. Figure a couple hundred more for a bike I've been lusting after for a year now is worth it.
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  11. #11
    B.Ike
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    Quote Originally Posted by appleSSeed View Post
    I got quoted $450 from The Path. I ordered a Satori, don't need another bike for sure, but still want a Taro for no good reason.
    Only 75 less than a honzo, seem like honzo is the way to go. (free shipping from bikeman)

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    I am looking at picking up one of these. The local shop ordered one in for me to check out, said they were pretty confident that even if I didn't like it that they would be able to sell it quickly due to the honzo's popularity.

  13. #13
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    ^I would agree...this bike is a killer value
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mackie View Post
    Anyone one one yet? What's the bike weigh?
    On paper this looks like my next ride, just waiting for some feedback.
    Thanks.
    I got a chance to stare at and weigh a Medium Taro today. 31lbs including those heavy stock pedals. It wasn't really my size so my 30 second impressions don't count for much, but it seemed easier to turn than what I was used to.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriffer View Post
    I got a chance to stare at and weigh a Medium Taro today. 31lbs including those heavy stock pedals. It wasn't really my size so my 30 second impressions don't count for much, but it seemed easier to turn than what I was used to.
    "Easier to turn?" I thought you only stared at it?
    Kidding aside, that's awfully heavy for an alu framed bike. No advantage over the stock Honzo as a complete bike in terms of weight then. But then again, the specs are lower than the Honzo's. I wonder where most of the weight is coming from? The wheels maybe?
    Thanks for sharing
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  16. #16
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    konahonzo

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    ^ nice pictures. It looks like a great bike for the price minus the brakes. I would prefer a shimano deore brakeset over the elixr 1's any day.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    ^ nice pictures. It looks like a great bike for the price minus the brakes. I would prefer a shimano deore brakeset over the elixr 1's any day.
    I agree.
    And the cranks aren't extBB yet. I guess that's what you get for the price
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  19. #19
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    Looks better in these pictures than on the website. doesn't it look like there would be room for a f. derailer?

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    Can anyone see any problems with throwing a 36t chainring on there?

  21. #21
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    Looks tits, seriously this bike would be mine if I wasn't in love with my Raijin....still want to build one up with a custom rigid fork and some big apples for city commuting duties.
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

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    Very much interested in this. Planning to sell sell my Blue Pig in spring and get this instead. Not sure if should get frameset and build it up, or by whole build and change some parts. Need to work out which would be cheaper. I'd change drivetrain straight away, shimano is crap in 9spd, in 10spd shimano works like Sram. Any idea what's the seattube diameter?

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    I just test rode one yesterday and although I am new to the sport I can say that I had a blast riding this bike. It felt very light while riding it and the gearing was seemingly well thought out. I was pretty impressed with the fork It soaked up bumps without really letting you know that they were there and did not have any symptoms of pogoing or to little rebound. I am putting my deposit down today. Cant wait till next paycheck so I can take it home and hit some trails.

  24. #24
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    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

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    Taro?

    Anyone have any experience climbing with a Honzo or Taro? The 1x9 is the only thing that scares me....

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Anyone have any experience climbing with a Honzo or Taro? The 1x9 is the only thing that scares me....
    I've had no problems adjusting to the 32T x 12-36 spread coming from a 2x9 with 11-34. In fact, I'm never going back to dual rings up front, the 1x9 has only made me stronger and the gearing is fine for climbing. Give it a try I say!
    konahonzo

  27. #27
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    Taro?

    Guess I should go ride it and see...

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    I've got one, I've done a few rides on it so I can talk on it a bit I reckon!

    I love it! First I'd say I'm 6'3'' and I got the 18'' model because small bikes are my thing, certainly for the type of fun bike that the Taro is. It's not the best bike for big days but for those rides where you blast out of the saddle for a few minutes then chat with your buddies then blast again it's perfect!

    It's really nimble with no problem on the twistiest of trails, I think the 20mm front axle and fat rims help with this as well as the short geo. The head angle seems just right at 68 but I did up the stem 10mm to 70mm to help me fit it. the rest of the kit, the saddle in particular, is great.

    On the down side, the wheels are heavy (I'm not usually that bothered but I notice these anchors), I'd love it to have an external BB (cos I'm a snob) and it's not a mile eater in terms of comfort. I'd say it would be an ideal second bike for the days when you 140mm fully carbon wonder bike would just be boring!

    [edit] The chain device hasn't missed a beat yet and on the climbing, it's a bit small (for me) so it's not the most comfortable climber, it kind of works out because I need to get out the saddle anyhow with the size and the gearing.. Long granny gear climbs would be best pushed!

    Here's a pic!
    Taro?-kona-taro.jpg
    Last edited by JonnyMontaño; 03-09-2013 at 11:58 PM.

  29. #29
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    Has anyone began to upgrade theirs? very interested in seeing what you guys have done.

  30. #30
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    I can't believe at 6'3" you went for the 18. That's crazy.
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    Yup, it's a bit small and if there was an in between size I would have gone for that but it is a really fun bike in that size and I have other options for big days out so all good for me. To be honest I tried a 20" honzo once which felt great a little big for real 'fun' riding..

    The only upgrades I have done so far are tubeless caffelatex front and rear, a 70mm stem and some slightly ritzier pedals.. Would like to put a nicer b&b chain set on there once I get round to it..

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    I just picked one of these up. I've got two 6-7 mile rides in on it. My previous bike was a specialized pitch pro with a 160mm fork and nothing else stock. I've been recovering from an injury (back) for 3 years so take my comments with a grain of salt. I'm rusty.

    I quite like the bike. It's my first hardtail but it rides quite a bit like my old pitch. It makes the trails I've ridden in southern california interesting again. I rented a honzo twice before I ended up with this bike. TBH I don't notice much difference between the way the two ride. Component wise the honzo is obviously superior but I'll be rebuilding this bike part by part anyway.

    So far I've swapped the seat out for a wtb pure v. I've got a set of xt m775 brakes I'm throwing on it this weekend. Next up will be a set of x9 cranks, an mrp micro chain guide and an 28t bling ring. After that will be a adjustable seat post, then a 140mm fork. I'm actually impressed with the oe fork and drive train. The OE wheels are pretty bad but tolerable until I explode them. I had to upgrade to 823's on my pitch because I kept blowing up wheels. I imagine these won't last long.

  33. #33
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    Re: Taro?

    Anyone thought about doing a 650b wheelset on the taro? Just a thought.

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    Re: Taro?

    Took it out to santiago oaks today to have some fun. Crappy action self shots but i had fun.








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    Nice shots, beautiful day there!

    I think 650b would be a bit dodgy, I'm already getting the odd foot strike so making the bike lower could produce a few problems, unless you went frankenbike and just put a 650b on the rear wheel, or you could just buy an actual 650b hardtail..

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    thank you!

    yeah i figured so i decided against it. already had some foot strike so id rather leave it alone. i wish this bike could get some more reviews. so far i think its an amazing bike.

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    Anyone has idea what is rear axle on Taro? In photos it looks like standard 135mm quick release, but is that really true?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    Anyone has idea what is rear axle on Taro? In photos it looks like standard 135mm quick release, but is that really true?
    standard QR... 135x10

  39. #39
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    Anyone know difference in frame weight between Honzo and Taro? Curious if the aluminum helps at all.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Anyone know difference in frame weight between Honzo and Taro? Curious if the aluminum helps at all.
    Yeah, the aluminum Taro is Lighter than the steel Honzo, but the difference is practically negligible. If you are getting a bike in this category, in my opinion the small weight difference should not be a deciding factor. Both bikes are pretty heavy. My taro is about 29 lbs without pedals.

  41. #41
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    Re: Taro?

    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyMontaño View Post
    Nice shots, beautiful day there!

    I think 650b would be a bit dodgy, I'm already getting the odd foot strike so making the bike lower could produce a few problems, unless you went frankenbike and just put a 650b on the rear wheel, or you could just buy an actual 650b hardtail..
    Go to a 140mm fork and its do-able. Im riding my Yelli Screamy that way.

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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Anyone know difference in frame weight between Honzo and Taro? Curious if the aluminum helps at all.
    Around 1150g or 2.5lbs My 18" Taro weighed 1900g. Honzo 18' frame weight is 3060g in this thread: Honzo frame weight

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Around 1150g or 2.5lbs My 18" Taro weighed 1900g. Honzo 18' frame weight is 3060g in this thread: Honzo frame weight
    Good stuff. Thanks for posting
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  44. #44
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    Your saying a 18" Taro frame only weighs 4.1lbs?

    Pictures?
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    This german forum(with pictures) seems to confirm that Taro's frame is prety lightweight...
    Aufbauthread: AM Hardtail 29" - MTB-News.de - IBC

  46. #46
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    So it sounds as though the Taro's bad reputation for being a aluminum pig isn't really because the frame is heavy, it's because the stock build is heavy.

    4.1lbs, or even lets say 4.5lbs for an 20" still could put you at around 25lbs with the right wheels and some carbon bits. That's not bad considering it's still a bike you could beat.
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  47. #47
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    Re: Taro?

    Why complain about weight? Just go out and have fun with her.

    Im riding mine all stock and so far its the lightest bike ive had. I also have an older xc bike that drags but i use for commuting. Heavy bike but i dont care

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Your saying a 18" Taro frame only weighs 4.1lbs?

    Pictures?
    1940g with Problem Solver adapter (which weighs 40g):


  49. #49
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    Re: Taro?

    Some action shots of the taro today.






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    I’m building up a MD Taro this week, I will be running a xt 785 mid cage 10 speed rear derailleur, xt 11/36 cassette, xt shifter, kmc xmx chain and I have some xo trail four piston brakes that I’m going to run. Will post photos this week

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoknight View Post
    I’m building up a MD Taro this week, I will be running a xt 785 mid cage 10 speed rear derailleur, xt 11/36 cassette, xt shifter, kmc xmx chain and I have some xo trail four piston brakes that I’m going to run. Will post photos this week
    Sounds really good, looking forward to see photos.

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    the start of my Taro
    Taro?-img_20130627_160117.jpg
    Taro?-img_20130627_165307.jpg

  53. #53
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    No HT badge?

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    It was not on the bike when I got it

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    Little update on my bike. I added a KS Supernatural 150mm dropper seat post of the weekend... also finished frankenforking my sektor... Now the sektor has a revelation motion control dna compression damper and a reba blackbox rebound damper... can't wait to give it the beans on friday.

  56. #56
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    Taro?

    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    Little update on my bike. I added a KS Supernatural 150mm dropper seat post of the weekend... also finished frankenforking my sektor... Now the sektor has a revelation motion control dna compression damper and a reba blackbox rebound damper... can't wait to give it the beans on friday.
    Did you get a longer air spring shaft? Part numbers?

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    Taro?-img_20130703_145130.jpgTaro?-img_20130703_145111.jpg
    So I have had my Taro for about 3 weeks now. Cool bike fun bike to play around will. This is a photo on top of oaks a local oc trail. Just got a droper post and some easton haven carbon bars and stem that will be going on this week.

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    Re: Taro?




  59. #59
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    Re: Taro?

    The taro seat is so bad. It makes my ass hurt. I need to demo another seat at the bike shop. This thing kills my ass.

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    The new bars and stem
    Taro?-img_20130711_191451.jpg

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    Did a 25mile loop at qauil last night with the new carbon bars, stem and dropper seat post. The bars help out alot.
    Taro?-img_20130712_165655.jpg
    Taro?-img_20130712_165649.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by fred lagunas View Post
    The taro seat is so bad. It makes my ass hurt. I need to demo another seat at the bike shop. This thing kills my ass.
    I suppose that's matter of personal taste. I've been favoring WTB saddles for many years now, and many of their models suit me well. I really like the saddle on taro, for me that little wider profile seems to work well on hardtail.


    Quote Originally Posted by motoknight View Post
    Did a 25mile loop at qauil last night with the new carbon bars, stem and dropper seat post. The bars help out alot.
    That's interesting, what's the benefit of those easton bars?

    I've been planning to ditch the chainguide and get a RaceFace narroe/wide ring instead. Thought of going for 34t at front. I tried at the biggest local hill to go up without using the largest cog at the back and it was fine, so maybe 34 would work.

    When looking the colors of Kona 2014, I'm happy I got my 2013 Taro, much better color.

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    That's interesting, what's the benefit of those easton bars?



    I have them cut down to 740mm but the carbon helps with some of the small vibration help to smooth the sharp edges out.

  64. #64
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    Does the 2013 Taro have dropper seat post mounts? I've found a killer deal (1,099 for a new '13 taro) and think I may have to pull the trigger. This bike seems like a blast and it can handle everything

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    also, what does the stock kona bar weight? debating if that would be worth while upgrade (although the green bars are down right awesome)

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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    Does the 2013 Taro have dropper seat post mounts? I've found a killer deal (1,099 for a new '13 taro) and think I may have to pull the trigger. This bike seems like a blast and it can handle everything
    Sorry slow replies here. Yes it has cable routing for dropper post.

    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    also, what does the stock kona bar weight? debating if that would be worth while upgrade (although the green bars are down right awesome)
    Might not be very uselful information: I haven't scaled Kona original bar, but I do like the feel of it very much, I'm surprised that I didn't want to cut it narrower, big wheels seems to need wide bars.

  67. #67
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    Taro?

    Bars, stem, post and seat are all reasonably light and well made.

    Edit: Stem-176g, 700mm bar-268g, seatpost-278g, WTB saddle-293g
    Last edited by Haggis; 09-03-2013 at 04:12 AM.

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    I just scored a new 2013 Taro off Ebay as an inexpensive alternative to building up an N9 or YS, so with a bunch of cash left over I am gonna tweak the cockpit and gear train

    => Has anyone added a narrow wide chainring and completely removed the chainguide?

    I'm thinking 32t Raceface or maybe a 30t, though I'm thinking a bash guard will not work with the 30t because it is threaded?? I want to keep the bashguard option in case I need a little more to keep the chain on...

    The Deore 9sp is not clutch, long cage, so I'm wondering if it'll be a problem. I could add a bashguard and a small upper "hook" to guard the chain, but I want to stay away from having to buy a new deraileur/shifter combo as I am fine with a 1 x 9.

    Also changing to On One Fleegle bars (715mm, 15 deg sweep), BB7 or Spyre brakes, cork Ergons, Nuke Proof Electron pedals, Brooks saddle, ghetto tubeless, Brooks saddle, and a Hope clamp.

    It's actually a really nice build, maybe the parts on not the lightest, but for 90% of the riders out there, the bike will work fine. I got mine on sale ($1000), but for what they're asking retail ($1400) you get EXO Ardents, a nice al frame with cool geo, a decent XC fork ($400), and a complete build package.

  69. #69
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    Well, I went ahead and set up my Taro with a Race Face 32 NW chainring and it was AWESOME!!!

    No problems running the stock chain length with the entire chainguard removed. I did manage to brake my chain on the trail, so I had to shorten the chain a full link and now it rides even better.

    I think the chain needs to be run short on the non clutch derailleurs, like very short. In the largest cog I have maybe one or two extra links of cage "stretch", the cage is adjusted to be close to the large cog, so tight tolerances.

    I am adding a bash guard to protect the chainring and to prevent an drops to the outside. I tried to add a "hook" on the inside top, but the seat tube weld at the down down tube kept the hook from dropping low enough to be effective. I'll probably make my own as someone has done on the NW thread.

    Initial set up was stock except for:
    RF NW 32t chainring
    Fleegle 15deg sweep bars
    RF 70mm stem
    Ergo cork
    WTB V
    Nuke Proof Electron Pedals

    Okay, so how does the bike ride? Well, the short CS and slacker head is a different kind of beast, so it should not be set up like an XC bike. I ran mine intially with a 70mm stem (stock is 55mm) and it just didn't handle well, felt akward and had a mind of it's own. Yesterday I went back to the stock stem and what a difference! Handling was awesome, so good that I am going to try a shorter stem 40-45mm this week

    Changes to come:
    The front Ardent 2.4 is kinda akward, likes to wag and can be a handful with the slacker head angle, but the rear Ardent 2.25 is just a little to skinny to get good grip, so I'm thinking of a lighter 2.2-2.4 tire on both ends, Ikon, new RR, ...
    Shorten the stem and see how things change.
    Seat, either get used to the WTB Kona braded Lazer (?) or get a Brooks C17 "rubber seat" (I have one on order)
    Seat post, it's kinda short (350mm), so I have a 400mm on order, though I am contemplating a Thudbuster or a dropper. I don't think a dropper will help as I am riding terrain that chanes so quickly that a dropper would be useless, but I really want my seat out of the way... the 350mm post is long enough for most riding, but not for doing miles of climbing.
    The Alivio Shifter is garbage! I'll be swapping to an XT 9sp or similar.
    Also looking at changing brakes, the Avids Elixir 1 are fine, but I prefer the feel of mechanicals; hydros are so quick and don't modulate well.

    Overall the Yaro is a reall nice bike, esp for the price, so I'd say skip the Honzo unless you need a slider and like the extra weight. The aluminum frame does not ride harsh in the least bit, and the slightly longer (10mm) CS still ride quite quick, perhaps better than the Honzo

    The 120mm Rockshox TK fork is not bad, at 200# I'm running 120psi with -2/3 to the slow side of rebound, works fine, lock out is decent, not a heavy fork, flex is not noticeable. The Revelation would be nicer, but it's a lot of $$ and really wouldn't be worthwhile for what is essentially a fancy BMXer

    I'm under 30# as it sits, with lighter tires/tubeless I could easilly hit 28#, maybe 27", not bad for low end running gear and no CF stuff

    If I were looking to build a short CS bike, this is a nice frame for not much $$

    I am riding a medium, 6"/32" inseam, and other than needing ~20mm more in the seat post, this bike fits fine. Standover is not great, a large is 1" taller, TT is quite long and with the bike wantiing to ride with a shorter stem, I can't imagine getting a large. There's a guy riding the a medium Honzo who is 6'3", and though that's probably tight, it is more doable than you'd think.

  70. #70
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    So you would recommend this over the Honzo? I am looking at building a Honzo frame up, but am considering this as well. Seems like this one would be slightly better up while the Honzo slightly better down. Any big differences between the two besides weight?

  71. #71
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    Besides the CS sliders and 142mm axle on the Honzo, there seems to be some very small difference in geometry.

    1) the Standover in some sizes (S and M sizes are lower on the Honzo.)

    2) the chainstay lenght which is 420mm(Taro) versus 415mm(Honzo)

    3) And third difference, here is my little analysis...
    Kona's website Geometry's dont seems to be very acurate For the Taro. 2013 and 2014 numbers are still the same when the 2014 Taro geometry is now dialed with a 130mm fork! (120mm for the Honzo)
    I believe this to be because of the low stack height of the internal headset on the Taro.(versus external headset on the Honzo)
    Internal Headset has about 4mm stack height(bottom cup). And I have found Honzo's FSA external headset to be something like 13,4mm tall. So 9.6mm difference. There is the 10mm travel difference in forks! So with the same fork, a Taro will have the front 10mm lower than a Honzo.(this must be the case of the 2013 Taro with a 120mm fork)

    I think the original 2013 Taro geometry(120mm fork = 10mm lower front) is the main reason for the "theorical" 3mm longer Reach and 7mm lower Stack versus the Honzo.

    So,
    I truly believe that if you put a 10mm taller HeadSet bottom cup on a Taro, The only geometry difference is the 5mm longer chainstay, and this not seems to be a negative point considering that some people already prefer there Honzos with sliders at 420mm for better stability and tire/mud clearence.

    I am myself considering a medium Taro buildup with "zero stack" headset and X-fusion Trace 140mm fork.(+8mm total front height versus a stock 120mm honzo).

    But considering that some peoples reports pedal strikes on stock honzo and prefer a 140mm fork to avoid strikes, I am thinking about the option of a taller bottom cup or even an "angleset" which ad 10mm in height plus, why not, something like 0.5 degree slacker HA.

    And for rich people, another nice setup can be a Taro with zerostack headset and a 150mm Pike ;-)

  72. #72
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    I have ridden both in a parking lot, so not much to compare, my Taro is a 2013, so it has a 120mm fork. I don't know that I'd like an even slacker front end (as it would be with a 130mm fork), it is already a little on the "waggy" side of life. I have a 45mm stem on the way, so I'll try that and see how it handles, also got an Ardent 2.4 for the back.

    In terms of choosing one or the other, from the standpoint of a frame up build, the Taro is just as nice as the Honzo, but lighter, though it uses a standard rear wheel QR/axle. For a complete bike, The Taro has a strange mix of parts, 20mm thru axle, standard QR rear axle, but otherwise the parts list is not bad, esp if you can get it cheap. The Honzo has a much better fork, slightly better componments, but geometry and ride is the same: seat, tires, stem, bar.

    I tend to break stuff and upgrade, didn't need the sliders, so I spent less now so I could change things over time. I do wish the TK were a little nicer fork but it works, so maybe the fork is the biggest thing in deciding Honzo vs Taro? Though, isn't the Taro spec'd with a TK gold and 15mm thru axle for 2014? That might make the decision easier

    So pedal strikes, yeah, these bikes have very low BB, the Taro runs 170mm cranks to help overcome the hits, but the pedals are low. But in comparision to an FS, a low BB is a relative thing. I don't think this is a game changer, a low BB handles better, so it just depends on what you want. I prefer handling and having to take care on pedalk strikes.

  73. #73
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    Every people has is own preference but the fact is that many people here likes theirs Honzo's with 140mm forks, which is the same geometry as a Taro with 150mm fork...

  74. #74
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    Taro is absolutely fine with the Sektor 120. Wouldn't want it any slacker at all for what it's good at, and I'm used to much slacker bikes. Jack the front end by 30 and it'd wander all over the farm.
    Also running 175 cranks and having no issues with strikes.

  75. #75
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    Maybe part of the answer is in the fork offset. Kona's website spec 46mm for the Taro. 140mm forks use to have 51mm offset. Maybe this avoid wandering of all the 140mm honzo/taro happy users...?

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by in-vico View Post
    Maybe part of the answer is in the fork offset. Kona's website spec 46mm for the Taro. 140mm forks use to have 51mm offset. Maybe this avoid wandering of all the 140mm honzo/taro happy users...?
    Maybe, offset could change the feel, BUT it would not change the geometry nearly enough to compensate for jacking up the front end an additional 20mm.

    I concur with Haggis, a more slacker front end would not make for a nicer riding bike, so if you insist on running a bigger fork on these frames, it'd be worthwhile getting an adjustable angle headset.

    120mm is enough for a hard tail, any more than that and there is just too much geometry change, might as well have an FS, but to each their own. It's an expensive "chance" to spring for a fork and not get a good ride, many bikes are spec'd for a fork so they have a certain geometry... don't wanna spend a bunch of $$ only to make a bike ride worse.

    I have recently ridden a number of similar bikes from Canfield, a custom frame builder, and a custom Honzo, each has a slightly different feel in the front end. Realizing that there are tons of variables involved in tweaking feel, the custom and the Canfield are running 140mm forks and did not feel to slacker at all. The frame up custom Honzo SS was running a 120 mm Fox fork and it felt more sluggish than it does with the 120mm Revelation; a different offset?

    On an aside, I replaced my stock rear Ardent 2.25 with an Ardent 2.4 EXO last night, and lo and behold that rear tire is a thin sidewall wire bead version weighing in at ~800gms!! Unlike the Honzo, this bike gets the cheap rear tire, so upgrading to a 2.4 didn't add any weight

  77. #77
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    Nice info about the stock tire weights!

    About Geometry, just think what is the result if(as an example) you build a Taro with a 140mm X-Fusion Trace... Look, first, the Trace is 2mm "axle to crown" shorter than a Revelation/Sektor. Second point is that going from 120mm to 140mm doesn't mean that you will be 20mm higher. This is because during the ride these 20mm will be sagged too. So when you are on the bike, 20mm travel upgrade will convert to 14-15mm in height increase. Substract from that the 2mm of the shorter X-Fusion Trace and you are at 12-13mm over 2013 stock Taro and only about 4-5mm over a sagged 2014 stock Taro OR any stock sagged Honzo!(remember that with the same geometry, a Taro has 10mm more "room" for the fork than a Honzo -> see previous posts in this thread about zero stack lower cup and new 130mm 2014 Taro)

    So these 140mm are obtained with only 4-5mm riding height increase over a Honzo or a 2014 Taro where lot of happy Honzo users are riding with the taller Fox 34(5mm longer than Rev and 7mm longer than Trace), which means 19-20mm front height increase over stock riding height and about 1 degree slacker front end, and again, most of these users report clear benefits in the general handling of the bike.

    So my little empyrical research tend to say that a 140mm Trace upgraded TARO is still a very conservative build. (only 4-5mm front riding height increase versus 14-20mm for most builds in this forum).



    Now something more subjective is that, looking at the builds, I am starting to think that the point of view difference come from the fact that most Taro USERS seems to be more XC oriented than Honzo USERS, and probably they chose the Taro over a Honzo because of the 2lbs lighter frame, but the fact is that besides the 10mm headset height difference these two frames have the same geometry.

    So, if there is a lot of 140mm Honzo happy users, then there can be a lot of 150mm Taro happy users too.


    P.S. sorry for my bad english, I am still learning...

  78. #78
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    I suppose a fork with more travel would be fine for some people, But this bike is not really a "big hit" bike, it's more attuned to a big boyz bmxer with some really big hoops.

    I ride in East TN, it's very rugged, lots of rocks and roots, goat path kind of trails, real single speed country, and the Taro is a great bike to rip around on. I don't really need a lot of suspension because the speeds are moderate, for the most part a fork takes the sting off and keeps the tire on the ground.

    If someone wants a big fork, it makes me wonder why they don't want rear suspension to boot. A big front end that squishes a long ways is not gonna be all that fun, the geometry will be poor except when the fork is fairly compressed, but this compression won't last long, so for most of the ride the head angle will be super slack, too slack.

    Ideally a hardtail would be ridden full rigid to take advantage of the constant geometry, adding a fork is a compromise not matter how you slice it, whereas FS is designed to work together. Just my take, for all it's worth, I just wanna make sure readers don't make a mistake and think big forks make a bike ride better, it's generally the opposite unless the frame is designed for the longer travel fork.

  79. #79
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    Like you said its just about the kind of terrain you use to ride, if you ride most "flat" trails, 120mm is more than your needs. But if you ride MOUTAINS, because we are talking about "All-MOUNTAIN hard tail" frames, 140mm is just right on a 29er. Just look these 650b hardtails with 150mm forks and 66° Head tube COMMENCAL BIKES, ALL MOUNTAIN HARDTAIL, HT, NEW, 2014, 150MM, 140MM, 130MM, AM, ENDURO

    Of course in all mountain riding a FullSuspended frame will be faster in the DH, but a lot less FUN! This is why there is some AM riders which are selling theirs FS bikes after riding a bike like the Honzo. The big travel in the front "directive" wheel make you feel confident, and the rear "direct", or more "connected" rear wheel let you "feel" the mountain without slowing you too much. There's where the FUN comes from, in the hills and in the downs.

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