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Thread: Taro?

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoknight View Post
    Iím building up a MD Taro this week, I will be running a xt 785 mid cage 10 speed rear derailleur, xt 11/36 cassette, xt shifter, kmc xmx chain and I have some xo trail four piston brakes that Iím going to run. Will post photos this week
    Sounds really good, looking forward to see photos.

  2. #52
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    the start of my Taro
    Taro?-img_20130627_160117.jpg
    Taro?-img_20130627_165307.jpg

  3. #53
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    No HT badge?

  4. #54
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    It was not on the bike when I got it

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    Little update on my bike. I added a KS Supernatural 150mm dropper seat post of the weekend... also finished frankenforking my sektor... Now the sektor has a revelation motion control dna compression damper and a reba blackbox rebound damper... can't wait to give it the beans on friday.

  6. #56
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    Taro?

    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    Little update on my bike. I added a KS Supernatural 150mm dropper seat post of the weekend... also finished frankenforking my sektor... Now the sektor has a revelation motion control dna compression damper and a reba blackbox rebound damper... can't wait to give it the beans on friday.
    Did you get a longer air spring shaft? Part numbers?

  7. #57
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    Taro?-img_20130703_145130.jpgTaro?-img_20130703_145111.jpg
    So I have had my Taro for about 3 weeks now. Cool bike fun bike to play around will. This is a photo on top of oaks a local oc trail. Just got a droper post and some easton haven carbon bars and stem that will be going on this week.

  8. #58
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    Re: Taro?




  9. #59
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    Re: Taro?

    The taro seat is so bad. It makes my ass hurt. I need to demo another seat at the bike shop. This thing kills my ass.

  10. #60
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    The new bars and stem
    Taro?-img_20130711_191451.jpg

  11. #61
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    Did a 25mile loop at qauil last night with the new carbon bars, stem and dropper seat post. The bars help out alot.
    Taro?-img_20130712_165655.jpg
    Taro?-img_20130712_165649.jpg

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred lagunas View Post
    The taro seat is so bad. It makes my ass hurt. I need to demo another seat at the bike shop. This thing kills my ass.
    I suppose that's matter of personal taste. I've been favoring WTB saddles for many years now, and many of their models suit me well. I really like the saddle on taro, for me that little wider profile seems to work well on hardtail.


    Quote Originally Posted by motoknight View Post
    Did a 25mile loop at qauil last night with the new carbon bars, stem and dropper seat post. The bars help out alot.
    That's interesting, what's the benefit of those easton bars?

    I've been planning to ditch the chainguide and get a RaceFace narroe/wide ring instead. Thought of going for 34t at front. I tried at the biggest local hill to go up without using the largest cog at the back and it was fine, so maybe 34 would work.

    When looking the colors of Kona 2014, I'm happy I got my 2013 Taro, much better color.

  13. #63
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    That's interesting, what's the benefit of those easton bars?



    I have them cut down to 740mm but the carbon helps with some of the small vibration help to smooth the sharp edges out.

  14. #64
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    Does the 2013 Taro have dropper seat post mounts? I've found a killer deal (1,099 for a new '13 taro) and think I may have to pull the trigger. This bike seems like a blast and it can handle everything

  15. #65
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    also, what does the stock kona bar weight? debating if that would be worth while upgrade (although the green bars are down right awesome)

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    Does the 2013 Taro have dropper seat post mounts? I've found a killer deal (1,099 for a new '13 taro) and think I may have to pull the trigger. This bike seems like a blast and it can handle everything
    Sorry slow replies here. Yes it has cable routing for dropper post.

    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    also, what does the stock kona bar weight? debating if that would be worth while upgrade (although the green bars are down right awesome)
    Might not be very uselful information: I haven't scaled Kona original bar, but I do like the feel of it very much, I'm surprised that I didn't want to cut it narrower, big wheels seems to need wide bars.

  17. #67
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    Taro?

    Bars, stem, post and seat are all reasonably light and well made.

    Edit: Stem-176g, 700mm bar-268g, seatpost-278g, WTB saddle-293g
    Last edited by Haggis; 09-03-2013 at 05:12 AM.

  18. #68
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    I just scored a new 2013 Taro off Ebay as an inexpensive alternative to building up an N9 or YS, so with a bunch of cash left over I am gonna tweak the cockpit and gear train

    => Has anyone added a narrow wide chainring and completely removed the chainguide?

    I'm thinking 32t Raceface or maybe a 30t, though I'm thinking a bash guard will not work with the 30t because it is threaded?? I want to keep the bashguard option in case I need a little more to keep the chain on...

    The Deore 9sp is not clutch, long cage, so I'm wondering if it'll be a problem. I could add a bashguard and a small upper "hook" to guard the chain, but I want to stay away from having to buy a new deraileur/shifter combo as I am fine with a 1 x 9.

    Also changing to On One Fleegle bars (715mm, 15 deg sweep), BB7 or Spyre brakes, cork Ergons, Nuke Proof Electron pedals, Brooks saddle, ghetto tubeless, Brooks saddle, and a Hope clamp.

    It's actually a really nice build, maybe the parts on not the lightest, but for 90% of the riders out there, the bike will work fine. I got mine on sale ($1000), but for what they're asking retail ($1400) you get EXO Ardents, a nice al frame with cool geo, a decent XC fork ($400), and a complete build package.

  19. #69
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    Well, I went ahead and set up my Taro with a Race Face 32 NW chainring and it was AWESOME!!!

    No problems running the stock chain length with the entire chainguard removed. I did manage to brake my chain on the trail, so I had to shorten the chain a full link and now it rides even better.

    I think the chain needs to be run short on the non clutch derailleurs, like very short. In the largest cog I have maybe one or two extra links of cage "stretch", the cage is adjusted to be close to the large cog, so tight tolerances.

    I am adding a bash guard to protect the chainring and to prevent an drops to the outside. I tried to add a "hook" on the inside top, but the seat tube weld at the down down tube kept the hook from dropping low enough to be effective. I'll probably make my own as someone has done on the NW thread.

    Initial set up was stock except for:
    RF NW 32t chainring
    Fleegle 15deg sweep bars
    RF 70mm stem
    Ergo cork
    WTB V
    Nuke Proof Electron Pedals

    Okay, so how does the bike ride? Well, the short CS and slacker head is a different kind of beast, so it should not be set up like an XC bike. I ran mine intially with a 70mm stem (stock is 55mm) and it just didn't handle well, felt akward and had a mind of it's own. Yesterday I went back to the stock stem and what a difference! Handling was awesome, so good that I am going to try a shorter stem 40-45mm this week

    Changes to come:
    The front Ardent 2.4 is kinda akward, likes to wag and can be a handful with the slacker head angle, but the rear Ardent 2.25 is just a little to skinny to get good grip, so I'm thinking of a lighter 2.2-2.4 tire on both ends, Ikon, new RR, ...
    Shorten the stem and see how things change.
    Seat, either get used to the WTB Kona braded Lazer (?) or get a Brooks C17 "rubber seat" (I have one on order)
    Seat post, it's kinda short (350mm), so I have a 400mm on order, though I am contemplating a Thudbuster or a dropper. I don't think a dropper will help as I am riding terrain that chanes so quickly that a dropper would be useless, but I really want my seat out of the way... the 350mm post is long enough for most riding, but not for doing miles of climbing.
    The Alivio Shifter is garbage! I'll be swapping to an XT 9sp or similar.
    Also looking at changing brakes, the Avids Elixir 1 are fine, but I prefer the feel of mechanicals; hydros are so quick and don't modulate well.

    Overall the Yaro is a reall nice bike, esp for the price, so I'd say skip the Honzo unless you need a slider and like the extra weight. The aluminum frame does not ride harsh in the least bit, and the slightly longer (10mm) CS still ride quite quick, perhaps better than the Honzo

    The 120mm Rockshox TK fork is not bad, at 200# I'm running 120psi with -2/3 to the slow side of rebound, works fine, lock out is decent, not a heavy fork, flex is not noticeable. The Revelation would be nicer, but it's a lot of $$ and really wouldn't be worthwhile for what is essentially a fancy BMXer

    I'm under 30# as it sits, with lighter tires/tubeless I could easilly hit 28#, maybe 27", not bad for low end running gear and no CF stuff

    If I were looking to build a short CS bike, this is a nice frame for not much $$

    I am riding a medium, 6"/32" inseam, and other than needing ~20mm more in the seat post, this bike fits fine. Standover is not great, a large is 1" taller, TT is quite long and with the bike wantiing to ride with a shorter stem, I can't imagine getting a large. There's a guy riding the a medium Honzo who is 6'3", and though that's probably tight, it is more doable than you'd think.

  20. #70
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    So you would recommend this over the Honzo? I am looking at building a Honzo frame up, but am considering this as well. Seems like this one would be slightly better up while the Honzo slightly better down. Any big differences between the two besides weight?

  21. #71
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    Besides the CS sliders and 142mm axle on the Honzo, there seems to be some very small difference in geometry.

    1) the Standover in some sizes (S and M sizes are lower on the Honzo.)

    2) the chainstay lenght which is 420mm(Taro) versus 415mm(Honzo)

    3) And third difference, here is my little analysis...
    Kona's website Geometry's dont seems to be very acurate For the Taro. 2013 and 2014 numbers are still the same when the 2014 Taro geometry is now dialed with a 130mm fork! (120mm for the Honzo)
    I believe this to be because of the low stack height of the internal headset on the Taro.(versus external headset on the Honzo)
    Internal Headset has about 4mm stack height(bottom cup). And I have found Honzo's FSA external headset to be something like 13,4mm tall. So 9.6mm difference. There is the 10mm travel difference in forks! So with the same fork, a Taro will have the front 10mm lower than a Honzo.(this must be the case of the 2013 Taro with a 120mm fork)

    I think the original 2013 Taro geometry(120mm fork = 10mm lower front) is the main reason for the "theorical" 3mm longer Reach and 7mm lower Stack versus the Honzo.

    So,
    I truly believe that if you put a 10mm taller HeadSet bottom cup on a Taro, The only geometry difference is the 5mm longer chainstay, and this not seems to be a negative point considering that some people already prefer there Honzos with sliders at 420mm for better stability and tire/mud clearence.

    I am myself considering a medium Taro buildup with "zero stack" headset and X-fusion Trace 140mm fork.(+8mm total front height versus a stock 120mm honzo).

    But considering that some peoples reports pedal strikes on stock honzo and prefer a 140mm fork to avoid strikes, I am thinking about the option of a taller bottom cup or even an "angleset" which ad 10mm in height plus, why not, something like 0.5 degree slacker HA.

    And for rich people, another nice setup can be a Taro with zerostack headset and a 150mm Pike ;-)

  22. #72
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    I have ridden both in a parking lot, so not much to compare, my Taro is a 2013, so it has a 120mm fork. I don't know that I'd like an even slacker front end (as it would be with a 130mm fork), it is already a little on the "waggy" side of life. I have a 45mm stem on the way, so I'll try that and see how it handles, also got an Ardent 2.4 for the back.

    In terms of choosing one or the other, from the standpoint of a frame up build, the Taro is just as nice as the Honzo, but lighter, though it uses a standard rear wheel QR/axle. For a complete bike, The Taro has a strange mix of parts, 20mm thru axle, standard QR rear axle, but otherwise the parts list is not bad, esp if you can get it cheap. The Honzo has a much better fork, slightly better componments, but geometry and ride is the same: seat, tires, stem, bar.

    I tend to break stuff and upgrade, didn't need the sliders, so I spent less now so I could change things over time. I do wish the TK were a little nicer fork but it works, so maybe the fork is the biggest thing in deciding Honzo vs Taro? Though, isn't the Taro spec'd with a TK gold and 15mm thru axle for 2014? That might make the decision easier

    So pedal strikes, yeah, these bikes have very low BB, the Taro runs 170mm cranks to help overcome the hits, but the pedals are low. But in comparision to an FS, a low BB is a relative thing. I don't think this is a game changer, a low BB handles better, so it just depends on what you want. I prefer handling and having to take care on pedalk strikes.

  23. #73
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    Every people has is own preference but the fact is that many people here likes theirs Honzo's with 140mm forks, which is the same geometry as a Taro with 150mm fork...

  24. #74
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    Taro is absolutely fine with the Sektor 120. Wouldn't want it any slacker at all for what it's good at, and I'm used to much slacker bikes. Jack the front end by 30 and it'd wander all over the farm.
    Also running 175 cranks and having no issues with strikes.

  25. #75
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    Maybe part of the answer is in the fork offset. Kona's website spec 46mm for the Taro. 140mm forks use to have 51mm offset. Maybe this avoid wandering of all the 140mm honzo/taro happy users...?

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