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  1. #1
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    satori questions

    Anyone know the i2i and stroke of the satori shock?

    Also, other than color did kona make any changes to the satori frame from the 2012 to the 2013 model?

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    cable routing. I believe the was an issue with cables rubbing through the paint.

  3. #3
    Kaj
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    my rep said the drive side chainstay was a bit different, but by my causal inspection they look the same.

    cables do rub the frame on the 2012 model, you need to put a protection sticker on the seattube. no big deal really
    Our Shops in Fort Collins and Boulder www.fullcyclebikes.com -- doing the mountainbike thing since '82

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    Thanks guys.

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    I may be wrong, but i think the 2013 model comes with a hydraulic seat post, while the 2012 did not.

  6. #6
    Kaj
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    I may be wrong, but i think the 2013 model comes with a hydraulic seat post, while the 2012 did not.
    the components are all different from 2012 to 1013, bascially x7 to slx, rock shox to fox, and add a dropper. price goes up by $200, but it's a $300 dropper, so basically a wash
    Our Shops in Fort Collins and Boulder www.fullcyclebikes.com -- doing the mountainbike thing since '82

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    saw a 2013 Satori in the flesh today. Color looks better in person as opposed to Kona website. Also, the color gives the illusion of more beef, although the frame is the same. Fox 34 looks GREAT!! Of course the spec is solid with the possible exceptions being seat post and rims. I was expecting a Highroller II on the back but it was an Ardent.

    Very nice looking bike.
    Despite the price increase it is a better value than the 2012.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    I may be wrong, but i think the 2013 model comes with a hydraulic seat post, while the 2012 did not.
    You thinking about pulling the trigger next summer?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    I may be wrong, but i think the 2013 model comes with a hydraulic seat post, while the 2012 did not.
    It is an air dropper from CrankBrothers.

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    I'm not sure if this should be in this thread but hey!! I'm talking about the Satori!!!

    I happened to walk into a lbs and there was the Satori screaming "Buy ME"!! I am a beginner still. I am 6'1 280lbs... is this still too much bike for me?? (That is a VERY stupid question) but, should I spend the money?? vs. keep using my 17.5 framed Jamis Dakota Comp??

    What are your suggestions.. I guess I'm trying to justify the price.

    Thanks ALL!!

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    Hehe, nice, Jammy. Ready for a real bike? Get the Satori tomorrow and thank us later.

    Actually, your Jamis is pretty nice, and a light 26er hardtail like that might just be a little zippier up the hills. Also, the hardtail would let you learn technical rear-wheel maneuvers more easily, as well as teach you how to jump and land softly on your rims. But damn, a 17.5" frame? Pain! You need a new bike.

    Too much bike in terms of price? I love my Honzo (I mention because sort of a hardtail Satori, caution: no front derailleur), but even cheaper would be to simply get a Dakota Comp that fit! I mentioned some of the benefits of a light hardtail above, but in contrast, what would you lose out on? Well, frankly the idea of riding your small XC hardtail down a fast, rocky trail makes my knuckles go white just thinking about it. The Satori would be arguably safer, more comfortable, and more fun.

    Too much bike in terms of the XC/TR/AM/FR/DH travel/weight/tire-width spectrum? A Satori is just enough bike for "real mountain biking", IMO, which is I define as getting a little rad on rough terrain. If you're just out for a long haul on fireroads, or all your friends like to ride XC, than the Satori will feel sluggish. Otherwise it's certifiably shreddable (read: fun AND durable), while remaining pedalable. Short of big jumps and drops, the Satori stands out in this regard (might need a heavier-duty rear wheel if you really like learning how to jump).

    A practical example? Imagine instead of skittering to a halt before the rough sections, wouldn't in be waaaaaay more fun stomping through them, or better yet, launching into them? Hells yeah it would

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by noosa2 View Post
    Anyone know the i2i and stroke of the satori shock?

    Also, other than color did kona make any changes to the satori frame from the 2012 to the 2013 model?
    So, I ended up trading my Transition TransAm 29er frame for a Satori. Love it. I do have a problem with having to tweak my bikes. It started with my turner 6 pack that ended up with different rockers, different length chainstays and different shocks with different i2i and stroke. Most recently I increased the travel on my SC nickel by changing the stroke on the shock... So, anyone put a 200 x 57mm shock on the satori? Looks like it would bump the rear travel up to about 148mm and may work if you don't run a derailleur. Anyone tried it?

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    From memory you would be limited by tire clearance with the seat tube. You will squeeze a bit more out by shimming down the stroke of a 200 x 57. Maybe to 53mm?Easy enough to do.
    I'm getting a frame in a couple of weeks and have a spare 200 x 57 so I may have a look. I don't ride any more than a 2.25" tire on the rear of a 29er, so for me it may be do-able.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    From memory you would be limited by tire clearance with the seat tube. You will squeeze a bit more out by shimming down the stroke of a 200 x 57. Maybe to 53mm?Easy enough to do.
    I'm getting a frame in a couple of weeks and have a spare 200 x 57 so I may have a look. I don't ride any more than a 2.25" tire on the rear of a 29er, so for me it may be do-able.
    Excellent. Please let me know if it works for you.

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    Got the frame and it's a 190 x 50 shock. So no hot ups mods possible.

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    Bummer, could have sworn I read the satori came with a 200 X 50 shock but just measured mine and it looks like you're right.

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    Doesn't mean you can't get more useable travel though. Only had one ride on OEM RP2 on the 2012 frame and thought it could be improved. It pulled up short on the travel and bobbed to much on smooth climbs if i added more sag. If i've only got 130mm of tarvel I'd like to be able to use most of it most of the time. Current tune may be Ok for heavy AM use but I'm using it as a trail bike. It's ideal for a trail bike . IMHO it makes a great trail bike as it very agile even at 68 degrees. IMHO lacks high speed stabilty for anything in the serious Dh category.Perfect for long travel trail. SC TBLT eat your heart out.

    I trialled a couple of shocks I had lying round.
    Most promising was my L tune High volume RT3. Rt3's tend to be more linear than fox shocks. This was the case with the Rt3. Even with 5 more psi it used more tarvel and climbed better.
    The other shock was a pre boost valve RP23 med tune with a XV2 air sleeve. That's nearly 5mm extra dia than the Xv fitted to the OEM shock. I added 10 to 20psi to allow for the extra volume. At plus 10 psi the mid range felt deeper and used a bit more travel. This setup was plusher than the RT3 but didn't climb as well or use quite as much travel as the RT3. At plus 20 psi it climbed better than OEM and similae ar to the RT3 but rode high and still used more travel.Still slightly better small and med bump compliance than the RT3 but the Rt3 feels more efficient[ accelerates quicker]plush I think a XV2 sleeve on the OEM shock could work as well. Although it feels like they have upped the IFP pressure in later generation shocks so you get more of a two stage feel.

    I've yet to experiment with volume spacers in either shock and IFP prssure in the Rt3 , but first impressions is either of these shocks is an improvement over the OEM shock.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 05-31-2013 at 10:00 PM.

  18. #18
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    Finished doing a reasonable amount of runs with both these shocks now . Very happy with either. Both have more travel and deeper mid stroke.
    If I set my Anthem x 29er at similar weight and sag to the Satori then the Satori, with the RT3, would outclimb the Ax. So that's some endorsement.And of course it's got a lot more depth on the descents and seated g outs.
    I swapped the large Xv2 sleeve on to the OEM Rp2 and it feels identical to the RP23 with the Xv2.
    I did reduce the IFP pressure on the Rt3 and now they are very similar although, like on most of my setups , I'm running more sag with the RT3.It needs it to just get rid of the starchy feel and squeeze out that extra travel. Because of the starchy feel it climbs just as well if not better than the RP2 XV2 at less sag.
    I'd definately give the nod to the RT3 for climbing and general efficient trail riding although the xv2 at very plus 20 psi [ 25psi higher than the rt3] it w3as nearly as efficient but still was slightly smoother and used as much travel.

    I'd definately give the Nod to the RP2 XV2 for plushness.It doesn't feel as efficient on smooth climbs and accelleration.

    Both can now just squeeze out full travel on a very big spine jarring seated g out. Before I'd only use 45mm of shock stroke. I find the RT3 mid platform [2011] very good on all my bikes if you just need that edge on the climbs. it blows off smooth and only adds a small amount of harshness to the overall ride if you use it like the Trail setting on the Fox CTD shocks.

    Overall I'd say just adding an xv2 sleeve to the existing shock is a good mod if your relatively light like me[170lbs] or want to give the bike more depth and fun factor on the trail.You can loose some smooth climb ability depending on current sag settings and air pressure. The propedal is esay to reach if needed though.It's worth experiimenting though. The xv2 at much higher pressure [plus 20psi ] makes it more linear and better trail bike.I usually have a couple of shocks lying around to fine tune a new bike to my style or likes.If you want a more trail orientated bike with better climbing but also uses travel easier then the HV RT3 would be good in either L or M comp tune[ I'd try l first with lots of sag. [RT3 tend to be abit notchy]. You loose a bit of plushness but the big wheels make up for some of that. it also adds that really usefull mid platform setting. The RP2 lock posn is a bit harsh for technical climbs or to stiffen it up for general trail use like the RT3 mid platform.

    I've had the Xv2 sleeve for a while so I presume the are still available. From memory they were not avaialble in the 190 x 50 size but the 200 x 50 sleeve is the same size and / or you can just swap the outer sleeve after you pop the circlip. 2 min job with the shock off.
    The 200 x 50 xv2 complete sleeve is FOX part # 806-29-085-KIT . I'm pretty sure the outer sleeve part is the same size for all sizes, and you can just swap it over to your existing sleeve.

    If the sleeve is too large and you blow through the travel then you can also add the air volume reducer kit. On the fox service site they have the compression ratios for all shock sizes , sleeve sizes and volume reducer spacers.Personally adding air presure is better as it firms up climbing as well.

    Only thing I have to do now is swap out the fork.MyREV 140 blows through all it's travel even more than my Rev 150 RLti used to. Can't wait til Marz gets the 55 Cr is 29er. I'll bypass the current Fox offerings.Not that impressed with my 2013 36 RC2 160.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails satori questions-xv2-005.jpg  

    Last edited by gvs_nz; 06-11-2013 at 10:02 PM.

  19. #19
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    Hey gvs nz, did you do any more experimenting with the shock on the satori? What is your favorite?

    Anyone try re-route the cables on their 2012 model? What routing do you like the best?

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