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  1. #1
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    Kona Process 153 2014

    I should get my new Process 153 DL somtime in October. I've been planning to ditch the front mech and get narrow-wide chainring for 1x10 setup. One problem remains. I don't trust that chainring to go totally without chainguide, so would like to have upper chainguide. I suppose that some kind of protection for the chainring is also needed, either taco or bashguard.

    First option, just put upper chainguide witch works with the basguard supplied in orginal setup. Is there such a thing? Derailleur is some kind of direct mount on chainstay, does chainguides exist that can just go to the same mount?

    Second option, buy a chainguide that has taco and upper chainguide. I think this is heavier and only secondary option.

    Anyone has similar plans?

  2. #2
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    The 153 has ISCG 05 tabs at the BB. Any chainguide should work with the bike, whether you go full guide or just an upper guide. I believe the MRP 1x guide comes in an ISCG version for a minimalist option.
    Fixing bikes for a living in Montana

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the tips memmot. MRP 1x looks like something that I'm looking for, I'm not sure it works with bashguard? How about this one, Should it be possible to just replace front derailleur with this? Blackspire Einfachx Chainguide E-Type Direct Mount 2014 | Chain Reaction Cycles

  4. #4
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    I converted my bike into a 1x10 about a month ago and used an n-gear jump stop for a chain guide N-Gear Jump Stop Chain Guide > N > N Gear | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop you put it where your front derailer used to be. I used a BBG bashguard Products that are handmade by this guy in Oregon, great product. I also put a single speed chainring on it and haven't dropped a chain yet. I have even intentionally tried to drop the chain, but to no avail. This combination works like a charm and is economically cheap, $18 for the bashguard (including shipping) and $10 for the n-gear chain guide.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    Thanks for the tips memmot. MRP 1x looks like something that I'm looking for, I'm not sure it works with bashguard? How about this one, Should it be possible to just replace front derailleur with this? Blackspire Einfachx Chainguide E-Type Direct Mount 2014 | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Without have bike and parts in hand, I would say both the MRP and Blackspire guides should work equally well.
    Fixing bikes for a living in Montana

  6. #6
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    prestige are you in the USA?

    cant get a date on them in the UK yet, Im guessing it will be later than october :-(

  7. #7
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    Well ive ordered my 153 might get here b4 the weekend probably by next week

    very very excited

  8. #8
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    Hello.

    i want to buy new Process 153 but i can't try it. which size will fit for me? i'm 175cm with around 82cm inseam and normal arm and torso length. Shoulder width is also normal. I ride Pitch Pro 2010 M size with 35mm steam and 740mm bar. Reach on this Pitch could be shorter but without offset seatpost i could not find proper sitting position.

    on homepage i saw that S and M size of 153 have same seat tube length (405mm). is this mistake?

    so which will be better...M or S?

    thanks for your answer.

    best regards

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiLi View Post
    on homepage i saw that S and M size of 153 have same seat tube length (405mm). is this mistake?
    its not a mistake. since all the bikes use dropper posts, the seat tubes are shorter than a traditional frame, and the fit is based on the reach. with that said, the reach on konas is longer than other bikes due to the short stems.

    175cm you should get a medium for sure.

  10. #10
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    noooooooo delayed until 8th Oct now :-(

  11. #11
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    now picking up on thursday!

    any thoughts on ho to lighten her up?

    ive got some slx cranks, will they be lighter than the S1000 that come OE?

  12. #12
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    narrow wide wolftooth

    I've had this on 3 rides with a non clutch rear xo and zero chain drops and no chain slap. I went 28t front, 36T back 1x10.

    Kona Process 153 2014-wofltooth.jpeg

    After riding the Honzo it has sold me on Kona's long top tube, short stem short stays setup. I have been gathering parts for a 650b trailbike and the frame is the last one on my list. Totally leaning towards the 153 now, so please post your thoughts when you get it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    prestige are you in the USA?

    cant get a date on them in the UK yet, Im guessing it will be later than october :-(
    Nope, I'm in Finland.

    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    now picking up on thursday!

    any thoughts on ho to lighten her up?

    ive got some slx cranks, will they be lighter than the S1000 that come OE?
    Same news here, should arrive to LBS today! I should get it tommorrow or monday. Yay!

    Internet says that SLX and that stock X9 crankset are the same weight.
    Only thoughts i have for some weight shaving:
    - ditch the front mech, sifter and grannyring, then just get 34t narrow-wide ring and lightweight upper guide to it for 1x10setup. (depends on the terrain you ride if you actually really need that granny ring)
    - Moneywise Less sensible continuation is to buy XG1099 rear cassette. That's 150grams lighter than 1070, but costs like 250€
    - I suppose lighter wheelset is possible, I don't think that anyone know the weight of the stock wheelset, I think that it's more on the burly and durable side. For example Stans Arch EX rim is almost 100g lighter each. You could easily get wheelset that is 200-250g lighter and still durable for allmountain use, but might limit your riding in bikepark. depending how heavy you are and how hard you ride of course.
    - Go tubeless of course, this saves tiny bit of weight, but in crucial place.
    - Change those burly RF atlas bars to some carbon bars
    - that saddle is around 210, grams, there is saddles that weight 140grams, if those suit your need otherwise.

    That's my thoughts, anyone has other ideas?

  14. #14
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    Soon...

    Kona Process 153 2014-img_1434.jpg

    But not soon enough, have to wait until sunday evening or monday till i get my hands on this beaty.

  15. #15
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    Bollox!

    mines arrived too, but the mech hanger broke during shipping!!!

    ahh well hopefully kona have one sent out to the shop by tomorrow

    I was hoping the hager would be the same as the operator one but it looks like theyve changed them for 2014

    Kona Process 153 2014-dropout.jpgKona Process 153 2014-p4pb5434920.jpg

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    Bollox!

    mines arrived too, but the mech hanger broke during shipping!!!

    ahh well hopefully kona have one sent out to the shop by tomorrow

    I was hoping the hager would be the same as the operator one but it looks like theyve changed them for 2014
    Oh I was surprised that 2013 process had same hanger as 2012 Abracadabra. Interesting to see what's the thing on 2014 model.
    Sorry kimbers for that weight reducing list, i didn't read carefully and thought that you are getting DL model as well. Well, reducing weight is cheaper on that non DL model. That SLX is about 50g lighter than stock S1000 crankset. If you want to shave weight, wheels is the place to start with. Also that 1030 rear cassette is heavy, that's cheap spot to shave 100g or so. Since you are in UK, this should be quite good set of wheels
    Superstar Components - High Spec Parts For Peanuts
    When i got my Taro, i just sold the stock wheels straight away and bought lighter wheels, update didn't end up costing too much, and got more that 500g lighter set of wheels.

  17. #17
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    I received my 153 dl with a broken hanger as well. Be sure to check your rear freehub, mine was snapped in half. I've had my process for 2 weeks and i haven't even been able to ride it. Very dissapointing!!!!!!!

  18. #18
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    Got mine yesterday. Love it! here are a couple pics:

    Instagram

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  19. #19
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    Got mine tonight nice so far, 33.5 lbs with pedals, not ridden yet though gonna swap the deore brakes for my hope m4 races and swap the discs down a size.

  20. #20
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    still not had a proper ride but very happy, feels really solid, especially in the rear, laterally stiff, been doing 5ft drops to flat and riding steps etc and its incredibly confidence inspiring, pikes are bang-on too.
    spec wise its good, high roller is a bit draggy on the rear, theres f all clearance between rear mech and tyre, think im gonna try 1x10 and ditch it
    also rims are i25, not i23 as listed on the website, which is a bonus
    and shame the KS lever doesnt sync with the kona own brand lock on-grips,- which are otherwise really nice.
    760mm kona bar is very good too

    not sure if its the BB or the cranks themselves but definately a bit of flex down there, so ill swap for my slx and see if its any better, shame as they look nice

  21. #21
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    You scored on the i25's! That's a great surprise. I'm really impressed with my set.

    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    still not had a proper ride but very happy, feels really solid, especially in the rear, laterally stiff, been doing 5ft drops to flat and riding steps etc and its incredibly confidence inspiring, pikes are bang-on too.
    spec wise its good, high roller is a bit draggy on the rear, theres f all clearance between rear mech and tyre, think im gonna try 1x10 and ditch it
    also rims are i25, not i23 as listed on the website, which is a bonus
    and shame the KS lever doesnt sync with the kona own brand lock on-grips,- which are otherwise really nice.
    760mm kona bar is very good too

    not sure if its the BB or the cranks themselves but definately a bit of flex down there, so ill swap for my slx and see if its any better, shame as they look nice

  22. #22
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    Posted my review of my highly anticipated Process 153 demo in Moab from this past weekend.

    In Summary - brilliant bike (non DL) - they nailed the geo and rear suspension IMO for a single pivot design.

    My only issue is the freekin der hanger snapped on the trail and I had to configure it to ride it out as single speed w many stops to reposition chain. still - the bike until that point and even after - as i stood to pedal due to gear ration - was absolut NAILS on the trail - up, down, techy, smooth - did it all. I dont know the weight - but NEVER felt it and my buddy was on his new sub-26lb trance advanced 275. BTW - the pike and monarch are so much better than my 2013 fox ctd components on my Satori!!! Just saying!

    Go check teh 275.650b forum for a more complete write up. I'd own this thing tomorrow.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers
    Got mine tonight nice so far, 33.5 lbs with pedals
    Is yours a regular or DL?

  24. #24
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    thats the regular model using my cheapo ebay scales

  25. #25
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    That's amazing because on a cheapo spring scale I weighed a regular 134 with shop pedals on it at 34.5 lbs. Don't know if I can trust my numbers.

  26. #26
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    I love it


  27. #27
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    according to kona the 134 14.66kg (13.85kg DL version) 32.4 and 30.5lbs
    153 is 14.71kg (14.29kg DL version) 32.4 & 31.5


    Kona Process 134 | Kona Process 2014: First Ride from Fiss, Austria | Bike Magic

  28. #28
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    So... finally got my first proper ride in

    managed 50k round wet n windy afan today

    very happy, climbs nicely, better than I thought- angles seem spot on, did use the lockout a fair bit on the long W2 fireroad climbs and the 2.4 DH tyres were definately felt on the ups, something lighter and less draggy will be going on when I get the cash, but over all climbs very well for a 153/160mm bike, cleaned all the techy stuff at afan

    descending was a blast , handles berms and corners really well, and eats up drops and jumps suspension feels very nice and progressive never noticed bottoming out and the pikes up front are brilliant, stiff and controlled no noticeable brake dive
    downsides- the front mech did collect a bit of mud and shifting wasnt great also dropped the chain a couple of times and got wedged between iscg tabs so ill try a narrow wide i think

    the ks lev seatpost is nice, although im used to the ball thwacking speed of my gravity dropper, BUT the lever action got very sticky by the end of the ride I think mud got in at the top under the saddle, will clean it out and stick a rubber boot over the exposed bit, was quite annoying.

    anyway its
    Kona Process 153 2014-1381607_10152019046915955_1975229401_n.jpg

  29. #29
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    about front derailleur...how much clearance is between tire? can you post some picture please? what is narrow wide...a single chainring? thanks...

  30. #30
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    hard to get pictures, its a bit tight in there probably about 2cm, might be the sram deraileir design, shifting never failed but the cable is now quite gritty after one muddy 5hr ride

    narrow/wide, thick/ thin are the single ring setups that hold the chain on better and raceface offer a 30t one by spacing it out from the crank a bit

    Race Face Narrow Wide Chainring - Review - Pinkbike

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    hard to get pictures, its a bit tight in there probably about 2cm, might be the sram deraileir design, shifting never failed but the cable is now quite gritty after one muddy 5hr ride

    narrow/wide, thick/ thin are the single ring setups that hold the chain on better and raceface offer a 30t one by spacing it out from the crank a bit

    Race Face Narrow Wide Chainring - Review - Pinkbike
    I put the 28t narrow wide Wolftooth components on my Honzo in a 1x10 setup and love it. WHen my Process gets here it will probably get the same treatment.

  32. #32
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    who else has the monarch RT on their Process, the lockout on mine doesnt seem to do anything, not sure if its been like that from the start or not?

    cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    who else has the monarch RT on their Process, the lockout on mine doesnt seem to do anything, not sure if its been like that from the start or not?

    cheers
    Mine makes a huge difference on the climbs.

  34. #34
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    Balls looks like mine is knackered back to the shop then !

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    Ya mine does not seem to "lock out" but definitely I can feel it making a big difference when pedalling uphill. Can anyone tell me how you know when your rebound is in its neutral position on the pike fork? It just keeps turning, is it when the silver thing is in the middle?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpre View Post
    That's amazing because on a cheapo spring scale I weighed a regular 134 with shop pedals on it at 34.5 lbs. Don't know if I can trust my numbers.
    I went to check the process 153 at the nearest kona Bike shop which was 1 hour away. Brought my own scale. Came out to 32.62 lbs without pedals. Their scale said 32.7 lbs. I test rode it but the wheels felt extremely heavy, otherwise geometry felt good riding a medium and Im 5'7". I did more research, and the stock tires (Maxxis high roller II) weigh in at 1305 grams each!! If I were to put some kenda small block 8s (740g), I could shave an easy 2.49 lbs and bike would be easier to play with!

    I tried mashing hard on an uphill trying to make the suspension bob considering its a single pivot. Did not notice any bob at all, granted the suspension was setup a bit stiff at 15% sag. Im a Fox fork die hard, but the rock shox pike are smooth as butter. Call me a convert!

    Does anyone know of any shop that would ship this bike? I could save $300 easily in tax alone.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by giantdefy View Post

    Does anyone know of any shop that would ship this bike? I could save $300 easily in tax alone.
    Try these guys

    Home - The Path Bike Shop | Orange County | CA | Bicycles | Mountain | Road | Custom Build | Repair | Bike Fit
    konahonzo

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    the ks lev seatpost is nice, although im used to the ball thwacking speed of my gravity dropper,
    You should go try one of the KS eTen posts...it'll make your LEV look like a gravity dropper...also, you can add air to help speed up your return speed if needed...page 14
    http://kssuspension.com/wp-content/u...EV-English.pdf
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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  39. #39
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    Thanks, but I live in california. Looks like they offer military discount. I'll give them a call.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    the ks lev seatpost is nice, although im used to the ball thwacking speed of my gravity dropper, BUT the lever action got very sticky by the end of the ride I think mud got in at the top under the saddle, will clean it out and stick a rubber boot over the exposed bit, was quite annoying.
    That isn't a KS Lev, that's the Dropzone model.

  41. #41
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    finally got to give the bike a good bit of trail time so here is my review.
    ive owned a lapierre spicy 916 and a ginat trance x4 and this blows them both out of the water. its the best bike i have ever ridden. it climbs amazingly well, the 27.5 wheels really help when grinding over rocks and the suspension just glues you to the trail. pedalling on flat is also excellent, again 27.5 wheels really help here and help maintain momentum. its descending tough that really blew me away. on one trail that i have done numerous times (a narrow loose rock steep chute) i would usually feel alot of chatter and the bike would be a little hard to control. with the pike on this thing it was amazing and controlled. something i can say about the bike in general actually. it feels poised and controlled in every siuation. this lead me to believe i was invincible, and thats when i got too cocky and crashed. breaking my new sram x7 derailer in the process! that was my fault though not the bike. the pike is the best fork i have ever used by a mile. bottomless yet stiff and plush,just the perfect fork. as good and stable as it was in high speed descents,it was equally impressive in narrow tight twisty switchback sections and flowy natural singletrack. the extremely low standover lets you get right over the bike,i have never got so low! the back end just whips around corners and feels nice and stiff .it can do it all,from flowy xc to gravity enduro(where it will excel) to gnarly downhill. i cannot rate this bike highly enough and am really excited by how much this bike can improve me as a rider. kona have knocked it clean out of the park with this one. 10/10 buy it!!!

  42. #42
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    Got my 153 DL some weeks ago. Just one proper ride behind, been so muddy and rainy here. Really great bike. Ditched front mech before the first ride and I got 36t RF narrow-wide ring at front + this blackspire top guide
    Also took tubes out. Rims were taped already. WTB rims seem really great, proper tubeless shape of rim, should not burp easily.
    I had 2013 Process DL. In comparison to that, front end doesn't feel long, since stem is shorter on this 2014 model. Front end feels to be lower though. Bike pedals well, but can notice the feeling of HRII tyres and sturdy wheels. Lighter tyres for trail riding is a good idea. I really like to have sturdy wheels as stock, these should take proper DH abuse. Maybe should get lighter ones for trails as second set of wheels.

    I noticed that 36t was too much for trail riding around here, and already swapped to 32t, but haven't tested it yet. Didn't notice any pedal squat on rear suspension when pedalling, but theoretically smaller chainring should have less anyway.
    Tomorrow going for first lift assisted day at bikepark with the bike, should get better feel of the downhill capabilites.

    On that first ride had a blast sessioning stepup we built last winter, video of one jump on it.

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/R5DXaPmWnQY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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    You think you need that guide? The dl has a clutch der and if you have the narrow wide ring, the guide could be redundant. I realize that a full squish bike is different but I am running a non clutch der with the wolftooth front and no drops at all.

  44. #44
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    Actually i didn't have that guide yet on first ride, just the RF narrow-wide ring. No problems whatsoever. I just got the guide based on internet opinion. My main use for that bike is enduro racing, and I really don't want to drop the chain while racing, so i got the guide. I think if I didn't race, I would not have got that guide. Could be overkill though, Zink rode rampage without guide on xx1 chainring, I suppose that states that it should not drop without guide =)

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    If you are racing enduro that makes sense!

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    First lift access bikepark day done. Main feeling on the bike is stable, stiff, strurdy and fast. On top of that playful and easy to jump around. I was able to do jumps that I haven't been jumping before. All the rocky and techincal sections I was faster than my friends, that was fun. I feel like I'd like to understand and to be able to explain why it's so. It feels like weight is just lower than on 26" 2013 process, it's easier to move around without loosing balance maybe it is the combination of low bottom braket and roomy front triangel. Anyone else able to explain it better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    First lift access bikepark day done. Main feeling on the bike is stable, stiff, strurdy and fast. On top of that playful and easy to jump around. I was able to do jumps that I haven't been jumping before. All the rocky and techincal sections I was faster than my friends, that was fun. I feel like I'd like to understand and to be able to explain why it's so. It feels like weight is just lower than on 26" 2013 process, it's easier to move around without loosing balance maybe it is the combination of low bottom braket and roomy front triangel. Anyone else able to explain it better.
    I agree. So confidence inspiring with beautiful flow but able to handle really nasty stuff. It always feels like your in the sweet spot on the Bike.

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    Ive now ditched the front mech and shifter and got a raceface narrowwide 30t, seems fine running with no guide, swapped tyres for hans dampf and nobby nic, my medium now weighs a bit under 32lbs

    ( the highrollers IIs weighed about 860g each)

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    Ive now ditched the front mech and shifter and got a raceface narrowwide 30t, seems fine running with no guide, swapped tyres for hans dampf and nobby nic, my medium now weighs a bit under 32lbs

    ( the highrollers IIs weighed about 860g each)
    Does it feel much lighter? How do you find that combination of tyres for grip compared to the hight rollers? Im running the high rollers tubeless at around 20 psi and the grip is incredible

  50. #50
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    they nobby nic on the rear isnt quite as grippy but feels a lot lighter and quicker to accelerate, makes climbing a bit easier as it definately doesnt drag so much, HD on the front might actually be grippier than the high roller! (its the vertstar compound)

    overall bike feels a bit quicker and more flickable, but I think most of that is in the 1.5lb or so lost in chainrings and shifter/mech

  51. #51
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    Curious what sag percentage you are running. I emailed me Chris Madrell from Kona and he said 30%.


    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    First lift access bikepark day done. Main feeling on the bike is stable, stiff, strurdy and fast. On top of that playful and easy to jump around. I was able to do jumps that I haven't been jumping before. All the rocky and techincal sections I was faster than my friends, that was fun. I feel like I'd like to understand and to be able to explain why it's so. It feels like weight is just lower than on 26" 2013 process, it's easier to move around without loosing balance maybe it is the combination of low bottom braket and roomy front triangel. Anyone else able to explain it better.

  52. #52
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    Im running about 30% too, describing the suspension is weird, it doesnt feel plush when you just sit on it, but through the rough stuff its very nice and controlled and handles big hits really well
    Definately faster too, my mate commented on Sunday when he was chasing me on some DH runs

    The lockouts busted on my monarch tho, If Kona are going to replace it, Im going to see if I can upgrade to the rc3+ !

    Kona Process 153 2014-1426711_10151776349787477_724491838_n.jpg

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    Thanks for your reply. I'm coming from a hard tail, this is my first full suspension, and I've been running 15-23℅ percent sag. I'm going to try 30 percent and stiffen up as needed. I have a 153 DL.

    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    Im running about 30% too, describing the suspension is weird, it doesnt feel plush when you just sit on it, but through the rough stuff its very nice and controlled and handles big hits really well
    Definately faster too, my mate commented on Sunday when he was chasing me on some DH runs

    The lockouts busted on my monarch tho, If Kona are going to replace it, Im going to see if I can upgrade to the rc3+ !

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    Ive now ditched the front mech and shifter and got a raceface narrowwide 30t, seems fine running with no guide, swapped tyres for hans dampf and nobby nic, my medium now weighs a bit under 32lbs

    ( the highrollers IIs weighed about 860g each)
    Did you have to remove the cranks to get the front mechanism off? I'm trying to get mine off now but can't swe how to do it without removing the cranks

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    Yeah but it was pretty easy to remove the cranks

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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    Yeah but it was pretty easy to remove the cranks
    I can't get the feckin things off at all! What way did you do it?

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    undo the non drive side bolt and tap the wiggle the crank arm off then tap the spindle through with a rubber mallet

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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    undo the non drive side bolt and tap the wiggle the crank arm off then tap the spindle through with a rubber mallet
    Ok. Must try harder! Thanks for the help

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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    . I have a 153 DL.
    Have you had any problem with that KS LEV integra seatpost?
    Mine works, but that remote's action is just very stiff. Today took it off to see what's the problem. It seems that in the way that LEV integra works it needs to have cable outer housing to move 5-10mm when using the seatpost remote. I had to remove that rubber where cable goes inside seat tube, now it works lot better.
    And finally took a picture of my bike

    Kona Process 153 2014-1469950_10151830905797963_1140003968_n.jpg

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    I noticed problems with the post on the showroom floor, so I took a credit and just used my KS Lev from another bike. On pinkbike they reviewed the Process 111 and mentioned problems with the dropper and it came down to how it is routed. You could just route it externally, less cable, smoother action, tiny weight savings. BTW, what size process do you have and what's the dropper length, 125mm or 150mm? The reason I ask is the media pics of the process 153 dl all seem to have a shorter dropper on. I wonder if it's size dependent. I'm appreciating all 150mm of drop.
    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    Have you had any problem with that KS LEV integra seatpost?
    Mine works, but that remote's action is just very stiff. Today took it off to see what's the problem. It seems that in the way that LEV integra works it needs to have cable outer housing to move 5-10mm when using the seatpost remote. I had to remove that rubber where cable goes inside seat tube, now it works lot better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I noticed problems with the post on the showroom floor, so I took a credit and just used my KS Lev from another bike. On pinkbike they reviewed the Process 111 and mentioned problems with the dropper and it came down to how it is routed. You could just route it externally, less cable, smoother action, tiny weight savings. BTW, what size process do you have and what's the dropper length, 125mm or 150mm? The reason I ask is the media pics of the process 153 dl all seem to have a shorter dropper on. I wonder if it's size dependent. I'm appreciating all 150mm of drop.
    Oh, true, I hadn't spotted that point in that pinkbike review. Just like they say, LEV works in the way of moving housing. I can't fix the problem by routing it externally, since it's the integra model, cabel goes to the bottom of the post. I think i got it fixed by removing that rubber bit from seat tube. Now of course water has clear route to my bottom bracket from that hole in seat tube. I might have to consider swapping that LEV for RS Reverb, then could keep the rubber bit where it belongs. Had to and measure how much drop there is on mine. Bike is L-size and drop is 150mm. I honestly didn't pay any attention to it, I've had 125mm seatposts and 100mm before. Then I found that 100 is enough to take the saddle out of the way.

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    Just got my rear shock back from SRAM they did a top on servicing it under warranty but they said it was full of muddy b water which is writing as I've not had it that long and never b her wanted it although it's been ridden in some grim weather !

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    Oh, true, I hadn't spotted that point in that pinkbike review. Just like they say, LEV works in the way of moving housing. I can't fix the problem by routing it externally, since it's the integra model, cabel goes to the bottom of the post. I think i got it fixed by removing that rubber bit from seat tube. Now of course water has clear route to my bottom bracket from that hole in seat tube. I might have to consider swapping that LEV for RS Reverb, then could keep the rubber bit where it belongs. Had to and measure how much drop there is on mine. Bike is L-size and drop is 150mm. I honestly didn't pay any attention to it, I've had 125mm seatposts and 100mm before. Then I found that 100 is enough to take the saddle out of the way.
    I demo'd the 134DL this last weekend, the dropper (external routed) was a POS. For the large I was riding I had to raise the seat post high enough that the cable housing was bordering on 'too short' - causing all sorts of problems.

    When the cable gets either bound up or gummed up with dirt, there's not enough 'spring' at the post head to pull the locking mechanism taught, and the post just flops up and down. It was f'n awesome that it happened at the end of a long ride when my quads, hams and hip flexors were all cramping, lol.

    The action on the post is great...when it works. I was just pretty un-impressed with it while gummed up with dirt (demo bike). Frankly, with the state of dropper posts in general I'm pretty sure I won't be running internally routed posts for a while to come - they are all too flakey / temperamental.

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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    I demo'd the 134DL this last weekend, the dropper (external routed) was a POS. For the large I was riding I had to raise the seat post high enough that the cable housing was bordering on 'too short' - causing all sorts of problems.

    When the cable gets either bound up or gummed up with dirt, there's not enough 'spring' at the post head to pull the locking mechanism taught, and the post just flops up and down. It was f'n awesome that it happened at the end of a long ride when my quads, hams and hip flexors were all cramping, lol.

    The action on the post is great...when it works. I was just pretty un-impressed with it while gummed up with dirt (demo bike). Frankly, with the state of dropper posts in general I'm pretty sure I won't be running internally routed posts for a while to come - they are all too flakey / temperamental.
    I have the 153 with a dropzone and I haven't had any problems yet. I ride the same trails you do too.

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    Yeah I should have caveated better that I'm about 99% sure the housing was too short for where I had the seat and it was a 'demo' bike that had clearly been ridden hard and not cleaned. Frankly, the only stuff I keep super clean on my bikes are the drivetrain, fork and shock stanchions. If I were to get that bike (favorable) with that post, I'd probably install a 'low friction' cable on it and figure out a way to keep dust out of the handlebar assy - which I presume would extend the issue free performance others have experienced.

    Either way, I stand by my 'avoiding internally routed' options - they look clean but I've heard nothing but headaches about them from the guys who work on them. When I demo'd the 153 from the path they had trouble getting the internally routed one to work and originally tried to get me to run a fixed post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    Either way, I stand by my 'avoiding internally routed' options - they look clean but I've heard nothing but headaches about them from the guys who work on them.
    I had internally routed RS Reverb on 2013 Process DL. That think worked flavlessly. I'd take internally rouuted reverb any day in comparison to externally routed. With 153 DL problem is that KS LEV doesn't seem to be very suitable seatpost for internal routing.

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    Ok i have a weird request of anyone willing to take the time. It would necessitate rear wheel removal and taking measurements between the stays, both bottom and top right where the tire would be.

    TIA

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    Didn't take the wheel off, but here is something from 2014 153 DL. I'd say its 7.8mm at seatstay and 8.5mm at chainstay, give or take 2mm. Image below does not show really well, in that it looks like 7.5 or so, but it's more when looking from right angle. Thats 2.25 Maxxis Ardent in the photo.

    Kona Process 153 2014-wp_20140104_009.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    Didn't take the wheel off, but here is something from 2014 153 DL. I'd say its 7.8mm at seatstay and 8.5mm at chainstay, give or take 2mm. Image below does not show really well, in that it looks like 7.5 or so, but it's more when looking from right angle. Thats 2.25 Maxxis Ardent in the photo.
    prestige much thanks.

    Would these measurements be 78mm & 85mm respectively? I wonder if something larger like a 2.75 would live in there?

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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    prestige much thanks.

    Would these measurements be 78mm & 85mm respectively? I wonder if something larger like a 2.75 would live in there?
    Yes, 78 and 85 of course. That is an interesting question, have you seen width measurement of those 2.75 tyres fitted on 25mm rim?

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    Yes, 78 and 85 of course. That is an interesting question, have you seen width measurement of those 2.75 tyres fitted on 25mm rim?
    no sir i have not however i plan to use 35mm blunts for the build as anything less for the DW is counter productive.

  72. #72
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    you can get compression free cable outer frome SRAM, made by Gore- ride on that would improve the levs action as it depends on outer cable tension to activate the lever


    SRAM Professional Gear Cable By Gore Ride On £29.99 | Planet X

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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    you can get compression free cable outer frome SRAM, made by Gore- ride on that would improve the levs action as it depends on outer cable tension to activate the lever
    SRAM Professional Gear Cable By Gore Ride On £29.99 | Planet X
    That seems like an awesome thing! Does that compression free mean that outer cable would not move at all, and there is something else in between the inner cable and outer cable that is moving?

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    Nope, quick googling tells -> "Non-compression usually have the steel strands running length wise through the casing.
    Compression has the metal strand spiraling around along the length. Compression would normally be easier to bend"

    So if anything will work it would be compression cable actually, it needs easy bending to work. (or outer cable housing not moving at all) Need to investigate which one is stock outer cable.

    Thanks for the tip kimbers, i wasn't aware of the difference.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    Need to investigate which one is stock outer cable.
    If you're running the factory cable and housing, that might be your problem. KS apparently didn't think that for $300+ that they should include real housing. Just replace both pieces of housing (between lever and adjuster, and from adjuster to post) with some good quality 4mm derailleur housing. You'll probably want to replace the cable too, which is also standard derailleur cable.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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    Thanks for the tip woahey, need to try that out. Now it works just fine when there is now rubber seal at the spot where cable goes inside the frame, but when washing bike water must get inside the frame.

    Really learnt something about the Pike loosing travel today at the trail, posted about it to the Pike topic. Have you guys noticed this thing -> Pike 2014

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    Does anyone know the size of the rear shock and bushings. I am going to upgrade to the db air cs and can't find any of the info on kona's site. Thanks

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    the rear is 200x57 not sure of the bushings, I know its all standard mounting hardware, none of that proprietry specialized silliness

    Id be very interested to hear your opinions of how it rides with the the DB air!

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    I will let you know after I get some miles on it. Have a riding buddy that put it on his Bronson and he loves it. Much better ride, he says

    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    the rear is 200x57 not sure of the bushings, I know its all standard mounting hardware, none of that proprietry specialized silliness

    Id be very interested to hear your opinions of how it rides with the the DB air!

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    the rear is 200x57 not sure of the bushings, I know its all standard mounting hardware, none of that proprietry specialized silliness

    Id be very interested to hear your opinions of how it rides with the the DB air!
    The bushings that go between the front of the shock and the top tube are 19.1mm wide. The back of the shock that connects to the shock yoke thing does not use any bushings, but yes its just a regular shock.

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    Is there anyone out there, around 6' riding a large? Wondering how much seat post you have exposed. When I demo'd this bike (and the 134) there was a ridiculous amount of seat post exposed in addition to the already tall mast. While it didn't hurt my back/neck, I'm wondering if everyone else is riding with the seat 4"+ higher than the bars.

    Not a criticism, just curious.

  82. #82
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    Anyone seen or heard when a Carbon Process 153 will be availible.
    Any pics?

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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    Is there anyone out there, around 6' riding a large? Wondering how much seat post you have exposed. When I demo'd this bike (and the 134) there was a ridiculous amount of seat post exposed in addition to the already tall mast. While it didn't hurt my back/neck, I'm wondering if everyone else is riding with the seat 4"+ higher than the bars.

    Not a criticism, just curious.
    was the post above the minimum insert? or was the min insert still inside the frame?

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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    Is there anyone out there, around 6' riding a large? Wondering how much seat post you have exposed. When I demo'd this bike (and the 134) there was a ridiculous amount of seat post exposed in addition to the already tall mast. While it didn't hurt my back/neck, I'm wondering if everyone else is riding with the seat 4"+ higher than the bars.
    Not a criticism, just curious.
    I'm 186cm (6"1) and with long legs, inseam is 91cm and riding large 153 DL. Yeah there is lots of seatpost exposed, but still at least in inch to go before the minimum insert. It's normal for me that saddle is 4"+ higher than the bars. Most of the bikes come with stock 350mm seatpost and usually that's not long enough, need to change it for 400mm.
    On this bike when riding flat fireroads to get to trails front end feels low, but on trails it feels spot on.

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    Prestige, I see you've got a large. What height/inseam are you? Sat on a med at my lbs but unable to demo one. Dealer says I would need a large. I'm 180cm tall with a 32" inseam.
    Cheers

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    Oh, just saw your last post!

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    The low stand over saved me at the weekend
    Riding a drop off that had surprise wheelsucking bog on the landing I was thrown forward and would've crushed my nuts on any other bike
    My mate following was not so lucky landed on the top tube went OTB and broke his Garmin

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnboyf View Post
    Prestige, I see you've got a large. What height/inseam are you? Sat on a med at my lbs but unable to demo one. Dealer says I would need a large. I'm 180cm tall with a 32" inseam.
    Cheers
    I suppose you are right between the recommended sizes? What bikes have you had before? All my moutainbikes have been with 600mm-610mm toptubes, and now that Process has 629mm toptube, it doesn't feel long at all. With that geometry, I think your dealer is rigth, should go with large.

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    I am 6'1", 34 inch inseam and I ordered a large. Currently riding a large Honzo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    I suppose you are right between the recommended sizes? What bikes have you had before? All my moutainbikes have been with 600mm-610mm toptubes, and now that Process has 629mm toptube, it doesn't feel long at all. With that geometry, I think your dealer is rigth, should go with large.
    I currently ride a med Lapierre Zesty. TT is 595mm and it has a 60mm stem. There is a move towards longer TT/shorter stem these days. I was worried if I went for a large I obviously wouldn't have the option to use a shorter stem if it felt long.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnboyf View Post
    I currently ride a med Lapierre Zesty. TT is 595mm and it has a 60mm stem. There is a move towards longer TT/shorter stem these days. I was worried if I went for a large I obviously wouldn't have the option to use a shorter stem if it felt long.
    you could put a 35mm stem on it....

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    Quote Originally Posted by flatlandersk View Post
    I am 6'1", 34 inch inseam and I ordered a large. Currently riding a large Honzo.
    (with a 35mm Kore stem)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnboyf View Post
    I currently ride a med Lapierre Zesty. TT is 595mm and it has a 60mm stem. There is a move towards longer TT/shorter stem these days. I was worried if I went for a large I obviously wouldn't have the option to use a shorter stem if it felt long.
    If you go with medium size Process, it has 601mm toptube and 40mm stem, you'll have 1.4cm shorter bike. Large will have 34mm longer toptube, so the difference is the same in other direction, 1.4cm longer bike. Does that lapierre feel like perfect fit? Of course could go for medium and change 55mm stem, which still istn't that long as a stem, or Large and see if you need to change that 35mm stem.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prestige View Post
    If you go with medium size Process, it has 601mm toptube and 40mm stem, you'll have 1.4cm shorter bike. Large will have 34mm longer toptube, so the difference is the same in other direction, 1.4cm longer bike. Does that lapierre feel like perfect fit? Of course could go for medium and change 55mm stem, which still istn't that long as a stem, or Large and see if you need to change that 35mm stem.
    I was on a medium Honzo with a 65mm stem and went with a large 153 and I'm running a 35mm stem. It's important and more accurate to do your calculations using reach instead of TT measurement. There is a difference. I quickly checked out the Zesty reach measurement on a medium and compared it to a Process 153 on a large and found if you were to buy a large and use a 35mm stem you would only be 1mm longer! So, if you keep the 40mm stem you're talking about 6mm which can be changed with just different bar sweeps. Hope this helps.

    BTW, I rode a medium and felt very cramped. I wouldn't want to buy a smaller frame and run the longer stem because the whole philosophy behind these bikes is long TT/reach and short stems. However, the pinkbike review of the process 111 stated that these bikes are "designed to be used with stems between 35mm and 50mm."

    Kona Process 111 DL - Review - Pinkbike

    If you have longer legs definitely get the large.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnboyf View Post
    Prestige, I see you've got a large. What height/inseam are you? Sat on a med at my lbs but unable to demo one. Dealer says I would need a large. I'm 180cm tall with a 32" inseam.
    Cheers
    I have the same inseam and the seat on both the 134 and 153's I've demo'd was comically high. Not quite 'min insertion' problems high, but damn close. Oddly enough it wasn't uncomfortable.

    That being said I'm going to be re-demoing the 153 this weekend as I had the flu for my first test ride. I was really impressed with the 134 but I want to give the bigger bike a fair shake; get it set up correctly, not be sick, etc.

    I'll get pictures of my 'appropriate' pedal-y seat height and post them in this thread.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    I have the same inseam and the seat on both the 134 and 153's I've demo'd was comically high. Not quite 'min insertion' problems high, but damn close. Oddly enough it wasn't uncomfortable.
    The Process isn't designed around seat-tube length like most bikes are. Sure, there is more seat post showing than other bikes. But, as you make it seem, the fit is spot on regardless of how "silly" the seat post looks...
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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    Anyone seen where any torque specs are available for the 153? You think Kona would put something on the site but no. Mounting the DB Air tonight. Anyone know please hit me up.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by GP Niner View Post
    Anyone seen where any torque specs are available for the 153? You think Kona would put something on the site but no. Mounting the DB Air tonight. Anyone know please hit me up.

    Thanks

    not sure what the torque specs are from Kona, but make sure you really tighten the shit out of the big bolt that hols the shock to the shock yoke. I have had that come loose on mine, and seen it come loose on other peoples bikes.

    That bolt uses an 8mm allen and even though its alloy has big threads, so you can really reef on it, which is what i would recommend. just make sure you use plenty of grease.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogbox View Post
    not sure what the torque specs are from Kona, but make sure you really tighten the shit out of the big bolt that hols the shock to the shock yoke. I have had that come loose on mine, and seen it come loose on other peoples bikes.

    That bolt uses an 8mm allen and even though its alloy has big threads, so you can really reef on it, which is what i would recommend. just make sure you use plenty of grease.
    I'm not savy to the setup bolt that connects these parts but why no blue loctite?

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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    I have the same inseam and the seat on both the 134 and 153's I've demo'd was comically high. Not quite 'min insertion' problems high, but damn close. Oddly enough it wasn't uncomfortable.

    That being said I'm going to be re-demoing the 153 this weekend as I had the flu for my first test ride. I was really impressed with the 134 but I want to give the bigger bike a fair shake; get it set up correctly, not be sick, etc.

    I'll get pictures of my 'appropriate' pedal-y seat height and post them in this thread.
    I'm curious what you decided. I'm in a similar position, similar height (184cm). I'm going to order one and I can't demo until April, so I'm going to order this week anyway. Looking at my L zesty it has a reach of 430 and the M Kona 153 has 435, so I'm currently thinking a M would be the way to go? Anyone 6ft and riding a M 153?

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