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Thread: Kona HONZO

  1. #1
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    Kona HONZO

    I figured this bike could use it own thread as I'm sure there are going to be quite a few enthusiasts. Please post any updates on availability as well as builds as they start rolling in. I'm already making my shopping list.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kona HONZO-honzo.jpg  

    Last edited by lancelot; 08-17-2011 at 07:44 AM.

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    Looks really sweet! I would love to ride one as it looks like it would be nice for the rocky singletrack in my area but i wonder how it handles with the slack head angle. How heavy is it?

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    The head angle should be great for descending. Steep climbs may be a bit light in the front end but the guys at Kona said it climbs great. I read somewhere that the stock build comes in around 28lbs. Rumor is that it will be available as a frame only also so you could build it lighter if you wanted to.

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    Great frame, but a badly executed full build spec, especially at $17xx.
    konahonzo

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    Calling my LBS to get on the list for this frame. I wouldn't be interested in the complete build either. Loving the new short CS and slack HT 29ers that are hitting the market these days!

    I wonder how it would ride with a Kona P2 rigid fork. I'd go back and forth SS, 1x9 and rigid, Reba.I was glad to see the slider dropouts for sure!

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    I want to build a frame only as well. Just need to find a shop that I can rely on.

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    Really? Where do you feel the "rip-off" is?

    In the bike world, I find you get what you pay for. With some brands I'm always worried that I'm paying more for advertising than for a good bike, but doing some comparisons, it seems like the Honzo is pretty much in line with other 2012s. Maybe the spec is even better than most, since the most expensive, hardest parts to upgrade are the least in need of upgrading (e.g. the fork).

    Maybe if I'm already spending $1799, I might as well drop the $2Gs and get 10spd shifting. But my LBS will take my trade-in the parts and upgrade me before the bike even leaves the store, and I'll get better trade-in value on those "repair parts" that will sell quickly.

    If you can just barely scrape the $ together, you'll be happy because she's ready to rock, and the stuff will last and perform through abuse. If you are like me and already have nicer parts, you're stoked because Kona didn't waste your $ on more expensive stuff that would need an upgrade nevertheless. If you want a nicer bike and have the money, then trade-in and upgrade. I don't see the issue. What I do see, however, is my next bike.

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    I agree. The complete build is a fair price for what you get. If you don't like it just build a frame up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Micrastur View Post
    Really? Where do you feel the "rip-off" is?
    Everything but the frame and fork.If I'm spending $1799, close to $2000 after taxes, I better not be seeing Deore, Alivio or basic Avid disc brakes anywhere on the spec sheet. I'm surprised they didn't bundle this bike with a RockShox Tora 29er like they do with the 26er Kona Steely and called it a day.

    Personally, I know what $2K can get you these days in the AM steel hardtail category and it's no where close to the basics that come bundled with the Honzo complete build. If I was spending MSRP on the Honzo, I would feel ripped off because I know better.
    konahonzo

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    Is anyone familiar with the chromoly tubing they are using on this one? Is it any good?

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    I'm sure the quality of the steel tubing should be fine - just won't be the lightest. Does anyone have the frame weight on one of these yet? I'm guessing 5.5 to 6.5ish lbs. Love the matte blue BTW

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    Finally placed the order for a frame today. No luck with any local dealers even returning a phone call for a special order but I turned to Bikeman and they were more than happy to order one. Now the waiting begins.

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    What's the final retail numbers for the frame only? $550? Just want to make sure I don't get screwed by my LBS. (hey, it happens)

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    Bikeman $539 with free shipping.

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    When are these available?

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    I've been hearing mid October.

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    How is the chain ring clearance? Is there enough room to possibly fit a 2x10 setup?

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    Quote Originally Posted by nathan_b View Post
    How is the chain ring clearance? Is there enough room to possibly fit a 2x10 setup?
    No room according to the review I read in Dirt Rag magazine.
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    i have a 2010 unit that I was thinking about setting it up with a 100mm fork and a 1x9and some lighter wheels etc.my question is would I be better off getting one of these?what would be the advantage of this geo?
    i ride for fun but try to keep up,not really mountains but rocky ozark hills.
    the unit geo is almost identical to a niner and everybody loves their niner

  20. #20
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    I had been looking at this bike. Being it would be my first Kona, I'm a little uncertain about the sizing, especially considering the geometry of the Honzo. My current 26" HT is a 19". From what I read, it would appear that Kona's run big? I am 5'10.5" with a pants inseam of 32". So would I consider the 18"?

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    Just curious?

    Anybody intending to get the Honzo who is planning to build it with a 100mm fork? Also, I assume this could be built 1x10 instead of 1x9?

  22. #22
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    Gonna run 1x10 on mine. Bike is designed around 120mm fork but if I plan on trying a 140mm I don't see a reason you can't try a 100mm. 120mm is probably the sweet spot though. Thinking about trying a 140 with a bit more sag. I'll see what happens.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cujo View Post
    No room according to the review I read in Dirt Rag magazine.
    Could you use a bottom bracket mount front derailer or am i just being foolish?

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    Got mine in yesterday! quick ride after work, supper fun, weighed in at 33 lb 5 oz. She is a heavy one, going to see about trying to lighten the load a little bit.

    The slack head tube and super short chain stays make for a fun run down hill.

    Going on another ride tonight....

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdbronco View Post
    Got mine in yesterday! quick ride after work, supper fun, weighed in at 33 lb 5 oz. She is a heavy one, going to see about trying to lighten the load a little bit.

    The slack head tube and super short chain stays make for a fun run down hill.

    Going on another ride tonight....
    wait, not even one picture?

  26. #26
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    You gotta post some pics. I assume that you bought a complete?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdbronco View Post
    Got mine in yesterday! quick ride after work, supper fun, weighed in at 33 lb 5 oz. She is a heavy one, going to see about trying to lighten the load a little bit.

    The slack head tube and super short chain stays make for a fun run down hill.

    Going on another ride tonight....
    Ouch. And that's with a 1x9. Wonder what's the frame weight? Pushing near 7 lbs?
    konahonzo

  28. #28
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    Guessing the stock wheels are pretty porky.
    The LPG

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdbronco View Post
    Got mine in yesterday! quick ride after work, supper fun, weighed in at 33 lb 5 oz. She is a heavy one, going to see about trying to lighten the load a little bit.

    The slack head tube and super short chain stays make for a fun run down hill.

    Going on another ride tonight....
    33 lb 5 oz. for what size frame?

    I am guessing the weight is in the cassette, cranks and wheel set. Are they running a steel free hub to keep the cassette from chewing it up?
    Last edited by bubba13; 09-14-2011 at 06:30 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chronism View Post
    I had been looking at this bike. Being it would be my first Kona, I'm a little uncertain about the sizing, especially considering the geometry of the Honzo. My current 26" HT is a 19". From what I read, it would appear that Kona's run big? I am 5'10.5" with a pants inseam of 32". So would I consider the 18"?
    I'm 5'11" with an inseam of a bit under 32". I find that an 18" Kona frame (mine's an Explosif, but I have ridden several others) fits me perfectly while with Trek or some of the other brands I have to go up to a 19" to get a good fit.

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    Sorry pictures will come tomorrow when the day light come backs. 33lb 5 oz for the 20 in frame. The wheels are very portly, 7lb rear and 5 lb front, for aggressive tires they are not very heavy the cassette weight in at 425g. so some weight to loose there.

    any reconmendations to look for a 9 spd cassette that has a 36? what about a lighter crank that will take a 32?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    I'm 5'11" with an inseam of a bit under 32". I find that an 18" Kona frame (mine's an Explosif, but I have ridden several others) fits me perfectly while with Trek or some of the other brands I have to go up to a 19" to get a good fit.
    Thanks, that's what I figured after researching some more and talking to various people. I currently ride a 19" Trek now so that makes sense.

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    Pictures!
    let me know if there are any other angles you would like to see


    Untitled by dhcrain, on Flickr


    Untitled by dhcrain, on Flickr


    Honzo by dhcrain, on Flickr


    Untitled by dhcrain, on Flickr
    Last edited by bigdbronco; 09-15-2011 at 02:11 PM.

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    Looks awesome. Are the stickers removable or cleared over?
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    Looks awesome. Are the stickers removable or cleared over?
    Not removable... but they are hardly noticeable in real life.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdbronco View Post
    Not removable... but they are hardly noticeable in real life.
    I actually like how subtle they are. Glad they are not removable.
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    Geometry Question

    Looking at the geo for this bike, it appears that the ST angle is effective, (sagged) can anyone tell me the actual ST angle? By my calcs a 120mm fork with 20% sag puts it at -73.3 degrees, which seems kinda steep.

    Also, the reach for the 20L seems off, based on the ETT and ST angles, I'm getting about an inch more.

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    Bike looks beefy but the dropout look like ones from kona unit! and those were a weak link as they broke down just above the seatstay weld where it meets the slider dropout. dunno if they use different/harder material this time..
    need more bikes...

  39. #39
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    Man that is cool. I love that bike! Wish my LBS carried Kona............

  40. #40
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    According to Kona the first batch of frames should arrive late October. Looks like second batch won't arrive till April.
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    I decided to not build a Honzo and go the squishy route so if anyone is interested Bikeman should have a 20L frame available in a couple weeks.
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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    Finally placed the order for a frame today. No luck with any local dealers even returning a phone call for a special order but I turned to Bikeman and they were more than happy to order one. Now the waiting begins.
    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    I decided to not build a Honzo and go the squishy route so if anyone is interested Bikeman should have a 20L frame available in a couple weeks.
    Hmmm... I couldn't possibly imagine why someone wouldn't want to special order a bike for you....

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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    Hmmm... I couldn't possibly imagine why someone wouldn't want to special order a bike for you....

    I don't really know any local Kona dealers personally or have dealt with any of them in the past so if you are going after my character you are dead wrong. I did get a call back a couple months down the road from a dealer I contacted at the beginning but at that point I decided not to build one. So I guess they are not all bad just extremely slow at making things happen. Just seems if you are buying a low priced bike or frame in the area I live its like pulling teeth to get a shop to take a order. If you are building a complete high end bike it's a whole different story. Well let's get back to the real topic of this forum and see those builds instead of BS'ing.
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  44. #44
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    Fair enough. Good on you for taking the ribbing well. I was just thinking that maybe those shops saw the innevitable that bikeman didn't. A small shop stuck with a niche frame is a small shop stuck with an almost unsellable item.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nevada 29er View Post
    Looking at the geo for this bike, it appears that the ST angle is effective, (sagged) can anyone tell me the actual ST angle? By my calcs a 120mm fork with 20% sag puts it at -73.3 degrees, which seems kinda steep.
    It's a hair steep by XC standards, but current AM hard tail bikes with forks longer & stems shorter than 100mm are being designed with steeper ST angles. The problem with slack or "normal" ST angles is that when the rider is climbing seated, the weight is on the rear wheel, leaving the longish fork near max extension. With an under-weighted, slackened & temporarily taller front end, the front wheel will wander a lot. The steeper ST angle helps correct for this, by keeping the rider weight a bit more forward and the fork sagged a bit. It's all about keeping the rider weight centered on climbs.

    I got to test ride this rig, and it works well.
    Last edited by Entrenador; 10-17-2011 at 12:59 AM.
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    Interesting bend on the seat tube. I haven't seen that before. Along with the top tube I could see how it would make the front wheel really light when climbing because it seems your positioned over the rear wheel more but correct me if I'm wrong. Those two aspects make it seem like it's perfect for descents though just like lancelot said.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridingaddict View Post
    Interesting bend on the seat tube. I haven't seen that before. Along with the top tube I could see how it would make the front wheel really light when climbing because it seems your positioned over the rear wheel more but correct me if I'm wrong. Those two aspects make it seem like it's perfect for descents though just like lancelot said.
    With a wide flat bar and the 73+* STA, the rider stays centered reasonably while climbing. With short stays, the seat tube has to be bent like that to prevent the tire from rubbing it. The seat tube doesn't really effect descending unless for some reason the rider is seated -- not recommended on most trails.
    Every rose has it's thorn.

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  48. #48
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    just got my honzo and love it. I replaced the front and rear tires with specialized purgatory front and new ground control rear removed tubes and also replaced the peddles with vp with ti spindals and dropped a total of 3lbs not bad for under $350

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    This bike looks awesome, but too heavy for me. I hope that it sets a trend though. Maybe there will be some lighter bikes with similar geometry and travel in the near future. Titanium would be more awesome, lighter weight steel would be cool, or even carbon.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omajack View Post
    just got my honzo and love it. I replaced the front and rear tires with specialized purgatory front and new ground control rear removed tubes and also replaced the peddles with vp with ti spindals and dropped a total of 3lbs not bad for under $350
    You lost 1300g with tires/tubes/pedals? Are they wire bead tires? And how heavy are the stock pedals?

  51. #51
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    tubes are almost a pound a piece (445g and 455g), pedals are jackshit and weight around 605 grams on bike store scale. the pedals i put on the bike are vp-69s with ti spindles that wieght in at 308g. the tires weight were 803 for the 2.4s and 773 for the 2.25. the sworks purgatory front which is a 2.2 weight in at 700 grams and the rear is a s-works ground control 2.1 and weights in at 605 grams.
    900g for tubes
    298g for pedals
    271g for tiress
    add 100g for tubeless tape and valves
    you get 1369grams shaved off my weight.

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    my next purchase will be a sram xx cassette weighing in at 189 grams. yea its $350 but its alot better then 423 grams of cassette and i will go to xt shifter and rear derailer between these ill lose another 280 grams. or i might just replace the brake system to slx disk brakes and disks. it wont save on weight but will cost less and give me alot better stopping power.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omajack View Post
    tubes are almost a pound a piece (445g and 455g), pedals are jackshit and weight around 605 grams on bike store scale. the pedals i put on the bike are vp-69s with ti spindles that wieght in at 308g. the tires weight were 803 for the 2.4s and 773 for the 2.25. the sworks purgatory front which is a 2.2 weight in at 700 grams and the rear is a s-works ground control 2.1 and weights in at 605 grams.
    900g for tubes
    298g for pedals
    271g for tiress
    add 100g for tubeless tape and valves
    you get 1369grams shaved off my weight.
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbenimble View Post
    This bike looks awesome, but too heavy for me. I hope that it sets a trend though. Maybe there will be some lighter bikes with similar geometry and travel in the near future. Titanium would be more awesome, lighter weight steel would be cool, or even carbon.

    I don't get it...what'the'hell is with people?

    You see an All Mountain bike and want to turn it into an XC sled. I see this in the All Mountain forum here at MTBR all the time. People post a Rockhopper or XTC in there and call it an AMHT b/c they ride the thing "all over the mountain"...when really it's just a trail bike.

    The Honzo is designed to jump, rail some corners, drop and shred some DH with the "ability" to climb back up. You don't do that kind of riding on a 2.1" tire. I wouldn't do repeated 3' drop on ti spindled pedals. And what's the big hang-up with the weight? It's not a race bike. It's not made to go out and climb like a race bike. For crap sakes...it has a chain guide. Granted, my AMHT hovers around the 30# range, but my do-it-all dually is 36#. If you want a light bike to climb with...why would you want it to have this geo anyhoo?

    Maybe I've just broken too many frames, forks, and wheelsets at my 200lb rider weight to be so conscious about a 2-3lb bike weight savings...but it really isn't that bad.


    I do agree though that the $1700 price tag should be an XT level bike with sealed bearing hubs and a good strong wheel build.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    I don't get it...what'the'hell is with people?

    You see an All Mountain bike and want to turn it into an XC sled. I see this in the All Mountain forum here at MTBR all the time. People post a Rockhopper or XTC in there and call it an AMHT b/c they ride the thing "all over the mountain"...when really it's just a trail bike.

    The Honzo is designed to jump, rail some corners, drop and shred some DH with the "ability" to climb back up. You don't do that kind of riding on a 2.1" tire. I wouldn't do repeated 3' drop on ti spindled pedals. And what's the big hang-up with the weight? It's not a race bike. It's not made to go out and climb like a race bike. For crap sakes...it has a chain guide. Granted, my AMHT hovers around the 30# range, but my do-it-all dually is 36#. If you want a light bike to climb with...why would you want it to have this geo anyhoo?

    Maybe I've just broken too many frames, forks, and wheelsets at my 200lb rider weight to be so conscious about a 2-3lb bike weight savings...but it really isn't that bad.


    I do agree though that the $1700 price tag should be an XT level bike with sealed bearing hubs and a good strong wheel build.
    Well said!!

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    I don't get it...what'the'hell is with people?

    You see an All Mountain bike and want to turn it into an XC sled. I see this in the All Mountain forum here at MTBR all the time. People post a Rockhopper or XTC in there and call it an AMHT b/c they ride the thing "all over the mountain"...when really it's just a trail bike.

    The Honzo is designed to jump, rail some corners, drop and shred some DH with the "ability" to climb back up. You don't do that kind of riding on a 2.1" tire. I wouldn't do repeated 3' drop on ti spindled pedals. And what's the big hang-up with the weight? It's not a race bike. It's not made to go out and climb like a race bike. For crap sakes...it has a chain guide. Granted, my AMHT hovers around the 30# range, but my do-it-all dually is 36#. If you want a light bike to climb with...why would you want it to have this geo anyhoo?

    Maybe I've just broken too many frames, forks, and wheelsets at my 200lb rider weight to be so conscious about a 2-3lb bike weight savings...but it really isn't that bad.


    I do agree though that the $1700 price tag should be an XT level bike with sealed bearing hubs and a good strong wheel build.
    My hang up with the weight is that at 33lbs I would rather have dual suspension. A hardtail should be light. Otherwise whats the point? And why not have a bike with this geometry that is also light? Climb easier, descend with more confidence.

    Then again, I don't weigh more than 155 with gear, my trails have no drops, and I've never broken anything but a chain. My trails are however, rocky, rooty and steep. I don't want anything twitchy on the descent.

  56. #56
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    To those who are already in favor to have one of those sweet things:

    Would it be possible to have also a 2.4" rear tire?

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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    I don't get it...what'the'hell is with people?
    Or we wanted a 29er hard tail with slack geometry that can also be converted to a ss w/o an ebb.

    Here's a couple pics of my build (yes those are Arch rims... *gasp*)






  58. #58
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    Daggum, man. That's PIMP.

  59. #59
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    That looks excellent. Nice touch with the blue nipples.
    konahonzo

  60. #60
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    I think the coolest setup with this frame would be a singlespeed rear wheel with Hammerschmidt crankset. Have a good XC'ish gear ratio for the overdrive and the standard drive would be a bail-out gear. Simple and gnarly.

    I've been wanting to do this since the HS came out.

  61. #61
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    20L Frame Toptube Length

    Can anyone with a 20L frame post what the actual top tube length is? The shop is measuring 24.25" which seems a bit short for a claimed 26" ETT. Wondering if its really the 20 reg frame?

    Thanks

  62. #62
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    I am sure that shop has the measurement wrong. The 20 regular is 25".

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbjeff View Post
    I am sure that shop has the measurement wrong. The 20 regular is 25".
    Yes, the 20 reg is listed as 25 ETT, which means the actual is probably ~24. Leads me to believe the frame they have is a 20 reg not 20L. To add more confusion to the sizing, Kona lists the frame in their "system" as a 22.

  64. #64
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    anyone have time on the honzo that also rode the nimble9/yelli screamy?

    Both are slack up front, but the seat tube angle on the kona puts the rider much more forward on the bike. I think the rear-weight bias is why folks are loving the canfields......and that the honzo may ride more "conventional" weight centered.

    I do know that there is a lot more bike out in front of you on the kona. The front center (bb center to front axle) of the small honzo is about 1.75 inches longer than the canfield (with both at 120 fork). Seems like honza would be better for plow style rough stuff, and the canfield would be more playful with - but what the hell do I know? just making statements on numbers.ny experience out there?

  65. #65
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    Jayoutside I have not put any time on the Canfields bikes, but I have on a 16inch Honzo and have loved every second. Im about 5'7"or 8" and its a great fit! I feel if the front to center was shorter I would have issues with toe clearance on the front wheel.
    I come from a dirt jump, all mountain riding background and I think the geometry is awesome! its the perfect length to jump and yet still be long enough to be comfortable peddling for hours.
    Little more Honzo obsessing in "29er bikes" forum, "nother new kona" post, and go to page 5. I would link it but im a nub and big brother wont let me till I hit 10 posts.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    I think the coolest setup with this frame would be a singlespeed rear wheel with Hammerschmidt crankset. Have a good XC'ish gear ratio for the overdrive and the standard drive would be a bail-out gear. Simple and gnarly.

    I've been wanting to do this since the HS came out.
    You and me both hommie! Rumor has it that the hammerschmidt doesn't work with the honzo frame... Honzo / Hammerschmidt

  67. #67
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    It fits...you just gotta ground down the back plate a bit.

  68. #68
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    wow, I show some ideas to make my bike a little lighter and get slamed for an AM bike. damn some of us riders dont live in the mountains where my bike would thrive so i ajust to my area and love my bike. by the way i didnt change to a sram xx crank i decided on a e13 xcx xc am crank and love it. and lost 1/2 a pound. weight still adds up when you go everywhere with your bike. and yea i know it sounds cheesy to those who have outstanding down hill areas and better trails then some of us. but my big reason for the Honzo was a steel and be a stiffer frame for a 220 pounder like me. i ride the crap out of it and have already replaced the pedals with some crank candy3s and the rear tire was replaced by 2.1 ground control due to a some snip putting crap on our trails nail boards but the wheels held up and had to be trued the ground control is an awsome tire grips great just wish they had a larger verson 2.2 would be better. I love it because its tough and keeps on ticking. be water my friends be water

  69. #69
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    Thinking about getting 1 of these frames. I have a Fox RP24 100mm fork that I could use. What do you guys think about using this fork or should I get a 120mm fork? Thanks

  70. #70
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    A super low BB height will be your main problem with a 100mm fork. A G2 fork would make it even slightly lower (assuming they have the same a2c as a non G2). What ever you do don't use a ZS44 headset lower or the BB height will fall even more and the fork's uppers will contact the down tube at full rotation. I bet a straight steerer G2 100mm fork with a ZS44 lower would make for a BB height just above 11" and eventually a dented down tube.

  71. #71
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    I agree that the Honzo is an AM bike and that ya'll shouldn't expect it to be to light. I also agree that a 33 lb. bike is a tad on the heavy side. Since most people will (I will) covert to tubeless that's 2 lbs. gone. Replace the tires w/ Specialized Ground Control 2.1 and you lose about 260 grams. Replace the horrible pedals w/ almost anything and there's another 200 grams gone. (I will convert to clipless and even w/ the $50 shimanos I have I'll lose 225 grams.) That's about 3lb. total. You can lose weight without turning it into an "XC sled".
    Last edited by Hempress; 03-16-2012 at 06:06 AM.

  72. #72
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    My Frame only is on the way, I plan on a light XT 1x10 build, Chris King hubs, HS and BB, CB dropper seat post and candy pedals, RS Revelation 120mm, Maxxis Ardents front and rear, Avid Code R's w/180 disc front and rear, any other suggestions or comments are welcomed....

  73. #73
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    ^ What about chain retention? I would add the MRP Lopes SL guide.

    Sounds like a great build!
    konahonzo

  74. #74
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    Which would be better to do first seatpost setback or a longer stem?

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hempress View Post
    ..... Since most people will (I will) covert to tubeless that's 2 lbs. gone........
    You must use different pounds than the rest of us.... Unless you meant 0.2lbs?

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omajack View Post
    Which would be better to do first seatpost setback or a longer stem?
    Is your frame too small?
    konahonzo

  77. #77
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    no im 70 inches and 30inch inseam. i feel like like im almost on a regular cruser bike sitting up instead of forward its a 17.5 which is what i ride. a 20 is way to big. I love my jewels don't want to crack anything.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omajack View Post
    Which would be better to do first seatpost setback or a longer stem?
    With chainstays that short, I would start with a longer stem.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    You must use different pounds than the rest of us.... Unless you meant 0.2lbs?
    Maybe I do but 450 grams is around a pound correct? Omajack typed that his tubes were about a pound a piece.

  80. #80
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    For those of you who were between sizes, did you go with the size up or down? I don't have a Kona dealer nearby, so I can't go take one for a spin. My current ride has a 24.4" top tube, which puts me right in between the 18" and 20".

  81. #81
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    I say size up and go with a short stem like a 50mm or 60/70mm even.
    konahonzo

  82. #82
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    Can't wait!

    Looking forward to getting a Honzo! Thinking of going rigid up front though. I am riding a rigid SS currently and loving it. Hasn't held me back in any way and has actually made me a more confident rider. Plus has lowered the cost of maintenance and set up time.

    Anyone have any suggestions for a rigid fork for the honzo?

  83. #83
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    I like the way you think Brother.




    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    I don't get it...what'the'hell is with people?

    You see an All Mountain bike and want to turn it into an XC sled. I see this in the All Mountain forum here at MTBR all the time. People post a Rockhopper or XTC in there and call it an AMHT b/c they ride the thing "all over the mountain"...when really it's just a trail bike.

    The Honzo is designed to jump, rail some corners, drop and shred some DH with the "ability" to climb back up. You don't do that kind of riding on a 2.1" tire. I wouldn't do repeated 3' drop on ti spindled pedals. And what's the big hang-up with the weight? It's not a race bike. It's not made to go out and climb like a race bike. For crap sakes...it has a chain guide. Granted, my AMHT hovers around the 30# range, but my do-it-all dually is 36#. If you want a light bike to climb with...why would you want it to have this geo anyhoo?

    Maybe I've just broken too many frames, forks, and wheelsets at my 200lb rider weight to be so conscious about a 2-3lb bike weight savings...but it really isn't that bad.


    I do agree though that the $1700 price tag should be an XT level bike with sealed bearing hubs and a good strong wheel build.
    Beat it to fit! Paint it to match!

  84. #84
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    Can someone confirm that a Chris King Inset 7 headset and 120mm Fox float will fit a Honzo?

    Thanks

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frede View Post
    Can someone confirm that a Chris King Inset 7 headset and 120mm Fox float will fit a Honzo?

    Thanks
    Yes, if the fork is tapered (1.5/1.125).

  86. #86
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    Cheers!

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    You need an Inset 3 for the Honzo bro. Inset 7 is 44mm top and bottom.
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by appleSSeed View Post
    You need an Inset 3 for the Honzo bro. Inset 7 is 44mm top and bottom.
    The Honzo's HT is a straight 44mm ID, not tapered.

    Is that frame/fork combo you are selling in the classifieds really yours?

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by eauxgod View Post
    The Honzo's HT is a straight 44mm ID, not tapered.

    Is that frame/fork combo you are selling in the classifieds really yours?
    He had a Honzo before, but I was under the impression he rode it. This one is a new frame. I'm confused.
    konahonzo

  90. #90
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    For those of you who own a Honzo, how agile is it? Would it work well for picking through rock gardens?

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbenimble View Post
    My hang up with the weight is that at 33lbs I would rather have dual suspension. A hardtail should be light. Otherwise whats the point? And why not have a bike with this geometry that is also light? Climb easier, descend with more confidence.

    Then again, I don't weigh more than 155 with gear, my trails have no drops, and I've never broken anything but a chain. My trails are however, rocky, rooty and steep. I don't want anything twitchy on the descent.
    I'm with you here. Totally agree.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  92. #92
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    Many people have the Honzo set up sub 28 lbs. Mine is right around 28, which is still lighter than my dw link 5 spot. Im riding an 18 inch frame, sometimes i look at it and think it looks small, other times i look at it and think the bike looks big. When i watch people about my size ride it i think it looks perfect, and when i ride it i know it is pure speed! Great all around bike without the hassle of a fs bike, and a lot of the time just as fast if not faster....

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by munstro View Post
    Many people have the Honzo set up sub 28 lbs. Mine is right around 28, which is still lighter than my dw link 5 spot. Im riding an 18 inch frame, sometimes i look at it and think it looks small, other times i look at it and think the bike looks big. When i watch people about my size ride it i think it looks perfect, and when i ride it i know it is pure speed!
    Good points about the weight/size.

    Quote Originally Posted by munstro View Post
    Great all around bike without the hassle of a fs bike, and a lot of the time just as fast if not faster....

    This is exactly why I'm considering a hardtail 29er rather than a short-travel FS 26er. I value efficient pedaling more than comfort.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

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    Kona Honzo chainring

    I am getting my Honzo tomorrow and was wondering if it's possible to change the fron chainring for a smaller one.

    32 wil be fine for regular use, but I think climbing some alps (holidays) will ask for a smaller chainring in front.

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorretje View Post
    I am getting my Honzo tomorrow and was wondering if it's possible to change the fron chainring for a smaller one.

    32 wil be fine for regular use, but I think climbing some alps (holidays) will ask for a smaller chainring in front.
    Not too many 31T or even 30T chainring options unless HBC or the new spiderless Bling Ring from MRP, but that won't work with the stock cranks.
    konahonzo

  96. #96
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    I plan on getting the Honzo. I will use my 100mm fork until I can afford 120. Anybody knows how much lower the BB will be with that?

    Thanx.
    J

  97. #97
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    Sram's new XX1 looks like it could revolutionize the Honzo! Anybody else's thoughts on this?

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    I got mine as a frame only about two weeks ago. Still need to order up a proper fork for it, I'm thinking maybe the marzocchi tst44 or see what I can find on pinkbike. It's a ridiculously fun bike and very nimble. It's not like other 29ers, the geometry is meant for fun, jumps, drops, hucks, descents at full tilt you get the picture. I rode for 5-6 hours at dirtfest the first day I had it. This bike isn't gonna stop you, it may be heavy but if you know how to handle a bike it won't hold you back. I would definitely recommend running a 120 fork as I have had numerous pedal strikes so far on this thing, but that's what I get for not replacing that reba yet, oh yea, and i still need a proper chainguide lol
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kona HONZO-img_0410.jpg  

    Kona HONZO-img_0412.jpg  

    Kona HONZO-img_0415.jpg  

    Kona HONZO-img_0417.jpg  

    Kona HONZO-img_0414.jpg  


  99. #99
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    Attachment 700436Attachment 700437
    Stock except I swapped out the the elixer breaks for some xt brakes and I am way happier
    Last edited by bikepackingdude; 11-12-2012 at 08:06 AM.
    ilovebikes.blogspot.com

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    I'm going to the alps in a couple of weeks and I'm thinking to change the rear tyre for an Ardent EXO 2.4.

    Will this fit?

    In the meanwhile I changed a lot of things to my stock Honzo.
    Now X0 brakes, but will be changing to hopes.
    Shifter is now a saint. nice improvement
    Syntace handle bars, but will be changing back to the standard kona.
    Gravity dropper, this is a huge improvement
    I'm going to fit the DT Swiss tubeless kit.
    And if possible 2 x Ardent EXO 2.4

    next year: New wheel set and Sram xx1
    Last edited by dorretje; 07-26-2012 at 06:39 AM.

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