Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here
Kona Honzo Build
2012 Kona Honzo Med.
2012 Fox F29, 120mm, RLC, Tapered, 15mm TA
Stanís Flow Wheelset with 3.30 front hub, 3.30 Heavy Duty rear hub
Maxxis Ardents: fr/2.4exo, rr/2.25
Thomson X4 70mm zero rise stem
Thomson Elite seatpost
Easton Monkeylite xc lo-rise carbon bar 27 inches
Specialized Henge Expert Saddle, ti rails
Odi Rogue lock-ons
Avid Elixirs R 185/160
Sram 991? chain
XT med. cage derailleur
Shimano 12-36t cassette
Niner 32t front chain ring
XT rear shifter
Cane Creek Headset / inset top, external lower
27 lbs. 13 ounces
Here's my review after my first ride today:
Just got back from ATT and I'm really, really, happy with the bike.
First of all, I expected the front end to wander on steep climbs, but it stuck, no wandering. This has a lot to do with the steep seat tube. It felt very efficient without any discernable bottom bracket flex. I expected this because the tubes Kona uses are fatter than my old Niner MCR 9. This frame weighs 5.75lbs. where the Niner 853 steel frame weighed 4.5lbs. and doesn't have sliding dropouts. For my weight, about 200lbs., the MCR 9 was nooodly, but comfortable. I felt it absorbed a lot of my pedaling power and the head tube was extremely flexy. The Honzo is a stout frame, and I don't think you can achieve that without it weighing more. I don't notice the weight, but I do notice the power transfer and SOLID feel of the frame. Also, I expected to dab the more technical sections because I'm not tuned to this bike yet, but I cleaned them all.
After reaching the top we lowered our seats and headed back. The words that comes to mind descending on this bike are INSANELY FAWKING AWESOME. Because of the short chain stays, the bike corners like a roller coaster doing a 180. The Honzo's geometry positions you over the rear tire and the pivot point of the bike in the turns. I'm not much of a downhiller, but I was flying and not worrying about any ruts or rocks because the fork and frame just swallowed them up, very confidence inspiring. The chain stays also make coming off jumps more intuitive. With Niner's geometry I always felt like I was waiting for the rear tire when popping off curbs and jumps, but the Kona feels right on.
This is the best bike I have ever owned, period. If you're worried about frame weight, you could save about 1/4-1/2 lb. going with a Canfield Nimble 9. The geometries with 120mm forks are almost identical, but the Nimble 9 has a slacker seat tube, which may affect climbing, and it does not accommodate a tapered fork, two things I really love about the Honzo.
PS - check out this video of the Honzo in action: House of the Big Wheel Part 1: Honzo and Satori on Vimeo
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/carabaoray/6337948649/" title="IMG_1499 by carabaoray, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6337948649_b6fd59e3f4_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_1499"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/carabaoray/6337948347/" title="IMG_1498 by carabaoray, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/6337948347_10a35f42cc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_1498"></a>
Build In Progress
I received my frame (which included a seat collar and cable clips) last week and so far I have scraped together for the build this stuff:
SunRingle Charger Experts (black)
Marz 44 Micro Ti 140 Taper (black)
SLX crankset (rings removed)
e*13 32t (blue)
SLX brakes w/ 180/160 XT rotors
Crank Brothers Joplin
WTB Rocket Team
Sunline V1 65/0 stem (blue)
Sunline V1 762mm flat bars (blue)
Syncros Hardcore ZS44 Tall Upper
Can Creek EC44 lower
X.9 short cage
x.9 rear trigger
Sram 971 11-34 cassette
1 can of frame saver
Sram 971 chain
CB Candy SL (blue)
Over the next few weeks these will follow:
MRP Lopes SL chain guide ISCG05
I recommend a Cane Creek headset. My fork knobs barely cleared the downtube by 1.5-2mm and it looks sweet.
Originally Posted by carabao
Very respectable weight. I can't see your pics.
I think I fixed the pics.
These Syncros headsets are on par with Kings and 110s, IMO, plus I need the height of the RWC Externalizer to keep my geometry in spec.
Nice build btw...
Yep, I see 'em now...:thumbsup:.
Originally Posted by carabao
Here's my build
20" Honzo frame. Bike had all the standard build kit when I got it. No bare frames avail in 20".
From the stock build I've kept the 120mm revelation fork, chain guide, cranks, bb, cassette, seat post collar, and headset.
RockShox Revelation RL Dual Air 120mm/20mm DO
FSA Step-Up cranks
FSA The Pig headset (I have a King headset on back order)
e13 ls1 chain guide
Niner carbon flat top bar
FSA SLK carbon seat post
WTB Rocket V saddle
X9 rear derailleur
Shimano HG61 12-36 9 spd
Elixir 9 brakes with 180mm rotors
Thomson 80mm 0 degree stem
Arch rims laced to DT Swiss 240s hubs with blue nipples
2.2 kenda slant six up front
2.1 kenda small block 8 in the rear
(36 teeth upgrade for rear hub on my workbench just waiting to be installed)
Currently have oury grips but I have odi rogues sitting here. Just waiting for my blue clamps.
I'll convert to single speed when I have the legs built up. Coming from a 3x10 this 1x9 is a pretty good work out. Loving the bike.
The first two pics are awesome carabao. :thumbsup:
Originally Posted by eurospek
Anyone know what a bare Honzo frame weighs? Many thanks.
mines stock! and it sh-reds.
Somebody on here weighed a medium at 5 pounds 13 ounces. That weight is fine with me considering comparable frames like the Nimble 9 are only a 1/4-1/2 pound lighter. I think the weight difference is due to the different diameter/size tubing on the seat, down, and top tubes. All three tubes on the Honzo are fatter, but since I'm 200lbs. I appreciate the durability, sturdiness, and stiffness they create. If you're lighter you may want to build up something else. I love hove the frame feels because it's stiff with the perfect amount of compliance.
Originally Posted by pulsepro
Really nice bikes guys. I am loving the look for the Honzo.
RE: EauxGod's pics - Loving the deep blue! Can't believe what a great color match. I would almost have to do a blue brooks saddle to complete the set.
I measured my 18" frame; it's 5.5 lbs with published CS and ETT dims...
Thanks for the info. I never got a chance to weigh mine, but the only other medium frame weighed was reportedly 5 lbs, 13 ounces. So, I'm going to go with your numbers. :thumbsup: Post up when you get it built.
Originally Posted by eauxgod
At last my time has come: finished last Saturday, tested on the mud on Sunday: seems like next summer I will have some fun :thumbsup:
here is how it is dressed :
frame size 18
fork Fox 120
wheels Hope/ ZTR Arch
1x10 crankset Aka + 32t Protone chainring , cassette XX 11-36, der. X0, chainguide Shaman
handlebar RaceFace Atlas Freeride + Oury DH
seatpost GravityDropper, saddle Gobi XM
Brakes Avid Elixir R with Hope 180/160 rotors
KG. 13 -
These builds look great. italiancarbs, I'll ask you the same question I ask all Honzo owners... what size tire are you running on the rear and does it look like you have enough room to comfortably run a 2.35 or 2.4?
Originally Posted by noosa2
The one you see in these pics on the rear is a Bontrager 2.2 (cut at the first downhill, now I am running a Nobby Evo). For sure the frame can run more than that and I believe that Kona is selling the complete bike with 2.4 front & rear.....
Not quite. 2.25 rear and there's not much room left for anything else.
Originally Posted by italiancarbs
20L Garage Queen Pics
Here she is, virgin photo shoot.
Build weight 29.6 lbs. I was hoping for under 30 lbs for psychological reasons.
Did a shake down ride and all was glorious as expected during the honeymoon period.
First the pros:
1. Short stays make the bike super playfull! Every rock presents an opportunity to air and tail whip. I was able to perform a proper bunnyhop for the first time!
2. Climbing was as good as could be expected for the weight and gearing. Standing climbing traction was very good due to the short stays.
3. XT 10 speed shifting was smooth! Coming from Sram X.9, I was blown away by the light touch and precision. It also allows multiple shifts up/down per stroke.
1. Low BB height was kind of a bummer. With a 140 Marz 44, it was around 12.3" unsagged. Going my Waltworks at ~13.5", I was hitting every rogue rock (running 180 cranks). Overall I prefer a 13"+ BB.
2. Ultimately 1x10 gearing may limit my ride length (or make me super strong!).
3. Seat post kept slipping. Maybe CF isn't the best choice with this frame. Planning on getting an Erikson sweet post.
4. I crashed (not the bike's fault) carrying a bit too much speed into a rock garden. Ice on the knee as we speak..
Overall, I was pretty stoked with the bike. Overall head angle seemed close to my Waltworks w/ 120 minute, which surprised me. However, I was running a lot of sag on the Marz, since I was originally planning on running it at 120. I'll have to get a protractor to measure the actual HA.
The toptube felt every bit as long as the 26" claimed. I was expecting it to be shorter based on the actual tube measurements. Will probably run a 60mm stem.
The biggest difference between the bikes is the short rear end of the Honzo, which makes for a playfull ride. Thats why I bought it!
Looks good, but hopefully Kona gets the memo and increases that rear chainstay clearance for much bigger tires on the 2013 Honzo. It would be a killer frame with 2.4 Ardents all around. I've never been one to mix tire widths.
I'm running - frankly huge - Schwalbe 2.35 Hans Dampf tires on Stans Flow rims with the stays of my Honzo 100% all the way forward (16.3" as claimed).
Originally Posted by eurospek
If a 2.4 Ardent doesn't fit (surprised since the side knob of the Hans is more aggressive and the air volume is huge) you could always lengthen the wheelbase a slight bit; definitely not an issue that warrants a redesign.
For that matter, if you like the Ardent I would challenge you to try a Specialized Eskar or a Schwalbe Hans Dampf. At least around here (Pacific North West) either tire is better in EVERY way.