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Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

1M views 7K replies 665 participants last post by  David R 
#1 · (Edited)
Kona Honzo Build

2012 Kona Honzo Med.
2012 Fox F29, 120mm, RLC, Tapered, 15mm TA
Stan's Flow Wheelset with 3.30 front hub, 3.30 Heavy Duty rear hub
Maxxis Ardents: fr/2.4exo, rr/2.25
Thomson X4 70mm zero rise stem
Thomson Elite seatpost
Easton Monkeylite xc lo-rise carbon bar 27 inches
Specialized Henge Expert Saddle, ti rails
Odi Rogue lock-ons
Avid Elixirs R 185/160
Sram 991? chain
XT cranks
XT med. cage derailleur
Shimano 12-36t cassette
Niner 32t front chain ring
XT rear shifter
BBG bash
N-gear Jumpstop
Cane Creek Headset / inset top, external lower

27 lbs. 13 ounces

Here's my review after my first ride today:

Just got back from ATT and I'm really, really, happy with the bike.

First of all, I expected the front end to wander on steep climbs, but it stuck, no wandering. This has a lot to do with the steep seat tube. It felt very efficient without any discernable bottom bracket flex. I expected this because the tubes Kona uses are fatter than my old Niner MCR 9. This frame weighs 5.75lbs. where the Niner 853 steel frame weighed 4.5lbs. and doesn't have sliding dropouts. For my weight, about 200lbs., the MCR 9 was nooodly, but comfortable. I felt it absorbed a lot of my pedaling power and the head tube was extremely flexy. The Honzo is a stout frame, and I don't think you can achieve that without it weighing more. I don't notice the weight, but I do notice the power transfer and SOLID feel of the frame. Also, I expected to dab the more technical sections because I'm not tuned to this bike yet, but I cleaned them all.

After reaching the top we lowered our seats and headed back. The words that comes to mind descending on this bike are INSANELY FAWKING AWESOME. Because of the short chain stays, the bike corners like a roller coaster doing a 180. The Honzo's geometry positions you over the rear tire and the pivot point of the bike in the turns. I'm not much of a downhiller, but I was flying and not worrying about any ruts or rocks because the fork and frame just swallowed them up, very confidence inspiring. The chain stays also make coming off jumps more intuitive. With Niner's geometry I always felt like I was waiting for the rear tire when popping off curbs and jumps, but the Kona feels right on.

This is the best bike I have ever owned, period. If you're worried about frame weight, you could save about 1/4-1/2 lb. going with a Canfield Nimble 9. The geometries with 120mm forks are almost identical, but the Nimble 9 has a slacker seat tube, which may affect climbing, and it does not accommodate a tapered fork, two things I really love about the Honzo.

PS - check out this video of the Honzo in action: House of the Big Wheel Part 1: Honzo and Satori on Vimeo

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#829 ·
I'll mail them (I live in Europe), but I doubt if the cup is correct. With the bearing and crown race removed it fits with only a mm or 2 to spare, I don't see how it could include any bearing in that small space. I think the correct EC44/40 cup has a wider lower body to accomodate the bearing as the one I got. Or then again, maybe I'm wrong again. Weird that their website doesn't mention the EC44/47, I've only found it in an older catalogue, which says it is indeed meant for a traditional steerer. (http://old.canecreek.com/manuals/2011_Cane_Creek_OEM_110.pdf)
 
#830 ·
This is what Cane Creek said:
There are two different EC44 assemblies, you just got the wrong one. The EC44/40 is to convert to a fork that is tapered 1 1/8 to 1.5, which could be used with a reducer crown race for a straight 1 1/8 steerer ( EC44/30). The EC44/33 is to convert to a fork that is tapered 1 1/8 to 1 1/4, it uses a 47mm bearing (1 1/4).

Still don't know what the EC44/47 is though, but it's obviously not the correct one.
 
#836 ·
Long time reader first time poster. I'm looking to build a 2012 Honzo SS. I just bought the frame and am wanting to do my first ground up build. I'm coming from a Haro Mary SS. I'm a big guy bout 6'1" 240lbs. So I'd like for this build to be as stout as possible. I'm essentially looking for a build that will last me awhile but not wanting to spend crazy amounts of money. I was gonna start with a 2012 large Honzo frame and a 140mm Revelation RCT3 front fork. Can anyone recommend a SS build list for the rest of the parts for me? Thanks
 
#844 ·
#837 ·
Can't help with the SS parts list, but I think you should consider a different fork. The Pike would be my first choice and it comes out on June 10th. I run a fox float 34 and I'm happy with it, but the 35mm stanchions of the Pike has me curious. I can recommend SLX cranks and Renthal chainrings and bars. They're stout. Oh, and Flow EX wheels.
 
#839 ·
The RCT3 is fine, especially if it's 20mm axle, but considering your weight (I'm 200 pounds) I thought you'd appreciate the stiffest fork available. I know I can tell a huge difference between my Float 32 and Float 34. $600 is a great deal, BTW.
 
#842 ·
I felt a bigger difference going from the 32mm Revelation to the 34mm Float than axle size. I wouldn't pay much attention to the 20mm debate. Definitely recommend going with 34mm platform fork. I was similar weight last year and the Revelation felt like a noodle. I love my Fox Float 34 and would buy it again for sure. As for the Pike, it's uncharted territory yet, I wouldn't be buying a first year product. Look at the CTD stuff. Only lasted a year before Fox has changed their tunes completely on the them.

If you're dead-set on the Revelation, the RL Revelation under $430 from CRC is also worth a look.

Renthal bars for sure. Especially if you're getting the 2012 blue frameset. I've been curious to see how those match the blue. ;)
 
#845 ·
The X-Fusion Trace 140 fork is worth checking out, cheaper than Fox 34, but same 34mm legs. No idea if they are finally in stock though. As for Renthals, they only make one model, one color. You just need to decide on length and rise. I've been wanting to try out a set of them forever now, just hard giving up my Chromag OSX bars. And I'm on the hunt for some 800mm bars now.
 
#852 ·
Howard619,

I have not actually adjusted my fork yet.
The link Eurospek posted should be helpful if you haven't checked it already. My understanding is that you should be able to remove the plastic "spacer" furthest right on your photo to gain travel or add another spacer to reduce the travel. My fork came with 2 extra spacers for this, just haven't done it.
 
#853 ·
Thanks Eurospek...I used that as my guide when I did the work.

Bmreal - please keep me posted if you try it. I personally would like that little bit of travel and slackness.

Does anyone know of a headset with offset cups that will slacken the 44mm ID headtube like the Honzo uses? Not sure if the CaneCreek makes their Angleset in 44mm, but I'm a bit reluctant to try that one with the negative reviews I've heard related to alignment and creaking.
 
#854 ·
I've done some searching and couldn't find anything on the topic, so I thought to post here since there seem to be a few running the Rockshox Revelation RL.

My damper seems really loud on the return stroke. Is this normal? The fork feels super plush and controlled otherwise. I thought it might be air mixing with oil, but after stripping down the fork and refilling it, I added the recommended amount of oil which pretty much tops out the damper chamber with no room for air to mix. Also makes me question the point of a bladder as used in the new Pike and Fox Fits.

Thanks in advance for anyone replies!
 
#861 ·

Here is a picture of my Honzo. Just drove of the side of a 1 foot ladder bridge. Kona would not take any warranty claims. Dont really know if i want to buy a new Kona frame, even though i was really happy with the geo.
From Kona's site
"New for 2012 we introduce the Honzo, a balls-out, aggressive all-mountain 29er Cromoly hardtail."
What size frame is that? I wonder if the smaller frames are susceptible to this type of failure because of the lack of triangulation and the seat tube gusset. I hope you're alright. You must have went over the bars.
 
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