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Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

1M views 7K replies 665 participants last post by  David R 
#1 · (Edited)
Kona Honzo Build

2012 Kona Honzo Med.
2012 Fox F29, 120mm, RLC, Tapered, 15mm TA
Stan's Flow Wheelset with 3.30 front hub, 3.30 Heavy Duty rear hub
Maxxis Ardents: fr/2.4exo, rr/2.25
Thomson X4 70mm zero rise stem
Thomson Elite seatpost
Easton Monkeylite xc lo-rise carbon bar 27 inches
Specialized Henge Expert Saddle, ti rails
Odi Rogue lock-ons
Avid Elixirs R 185/160
Sram 991? chain
XT cranks
XT med. cage derailleur
Shimano 12-36t cassette
Niner 32t front chain ring
XT rear shifter
BBG bash
N-gear Jumpstop
Cane Creek Headset / inset top, external lower

27 lbs. 13 ounces

Here's my review after my first ride today:

Just got back from ATT and I'm really, really, happy with the bike.

First of all, I expected the front end to wander on steep climbs, but it stuck, no wandering. This has a lot to do with the steep seat tube. It felt very efficient without any discernable bottom bracket flex. I expected this because the tubes Kona uses are fatter than my old Niner MCR 9. This frame weighs 5.75lbs. where the Niner 853 steel frame weighed 4.5lbs. and doesn't have sliding dropouts. For my weight, about 200lbs., the MCR 9 was nooodly, but comfortable. I felt it absorbed a lot of my pedaling power and the head tube was extremely flexy. The Honzo is a stout frame, and I don't think you can achieve that without it weighing more. I don't notice the weight, but I do notice the power transfer and SOLID feel of the frame. Also, I expected to dab the more technical sections because I'm not tuned to this bike yet, but I cleaned them all.

After reaching the top we lowered our seats and headed back. The words that comes to mind descending on this bike are INSANELY FAWKING AWESOME. Because of the short chain stays, the bike corners like a roller coaster doing a 180. The Honzo's geometry positions you over the rear tire and the pivot point of the bike in the turns. I'm not much of a downhiller, but I was flying and not worrying about any ruts or rocks because the fork and frame just swallowed them up, very confidence inspiring. The chain stays also make coming off jumps more intuitive. With Niner's geometry I always felt like I was waiting for the rear tire when popping off curbs and jumps, but the Kona feels right on.

This is the best bike I have ever owned, period. If you're worried about frame weight, you could save about 1/4-1/2 lb. going with a Canfield Nimble 9. The geometries with 120mm forks are almost identical, but the Nimble 9 has a slacker seat tube, which may affect climbing, and it does not accommodate a tapered fork, two things I really love about the Honzo.

PS - check out this video of the Honzo in action: House of the Big Wheel Part 1: Honzo and Satori on Vimeo

IMG_1499

IMG_1498
 
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#774 · (Edited)
Does anyone know if a Continental Rubber Queen/Trail King 2.4 will fit into a Rock Shox Revelation RCT3? I'm gonna put the 2.2 in the rear as I've read somewhere in this thread that 2.4 either won't or is a very tight call.
Edit: I think it does, if I google the suspension most sites seem to say up to 2.4
 
#775 ·
Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I am going to anyway since this is where all of the Honzo owners congregate...

I've narrowed my decision down to a Honzo or a Trek Stache. Without being too biased (hehe), what do you guys think? Bike will be ridden primarily on singletrack - quite a bit of climbing and just as much downhill. :)
 
#784 ·
I don't really have much more to add except that in the parking lot it rode great, but as soon as I got it on the trails I couldn't wait to get off of it. I assume it felt that way because it is aluminum frame and all I've ever ridden were steel frames but as I have not ridden many aluminum hard tails I can't say for sure.
 
#789 ·
in the trees, dfuse, and carabao thank you! i'm really stoked on how it came out:) got over 40 miles of hill mashing and rear wheel surfing trail-jibbing joy on it now haha. had no idea a 29er could be this fun... i actually don't even think about the wheel size until i question why i'm rolling so fast.

also big thanks to carabao, eurospek, FM, and all the others that shared their build process experience and fielded questions!
 
#792 ·
I'm 6'0" and 33" inseem and ride L - it's perfect for me. Depends how big you like your bikes, my view (for what it's worth), there's a few tweaks you can make to a bike that's a bit small, but less you can do shrink a bike that's too big. Most bike fitting is based on seated position, but also bare in mind, you are likely to be standing more than you would on an XC bike. A few guys my size seem to for the 18".
 
#796 ·
2013 Honzo MRP 1x Issue

Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??
 
#797 ·
Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??
BB mounted guides are a huge pain. I suggest that you make use of those wonderful ISCG tabs you have a go with a proper guide. I run my bike as a 1x9 and the extra drag that you get with a full chain device is not noticeable while pedaling. I can notice it when my bike is in the repair stand and I am turning by hand, but it's not too bad at all.

Also a full guide makes it very hard to drop a chain if it is set up properly. I haven't had a chain come off my bike in over 2 seasons of riding on a full guide set up.

MRP also just came out with this guide for 2013. It's basically a Mini G2 without the lower retention. Check it out. Mountain Racing Products home of MRP, White Brothers, Kreitler, Tamer, and Power Grips | AMG
 
#801 ·
Framesaver

The fact that some of you are wasting your time worrying about your frames corroding because of rust really amuses me.

The fact that some of you are going to the lengths of wasting your time using framesaver also makes me chuckle.

It's clear that most of you young guns are only used to riding alloy frames and you assume that a steel frame is going to rust before your very eyes.

Now I live in the UK where it has been known to rain (just a little bit):)

I have recently stripped my 1994 Chromoly Kona Cinder Cone (a real Kona) and there is no sign of any rust or corrosion.

You people seriously need to relax and enjoy your bikes, worrying about minor details is only going to stress you all out:)
 
#802 ·
The fact that some of you are wasting your time worrying about your frames corroding because of rust really amuses me.

The fact that some of you are going to the lengths of wasting your time using framesaver also makes me chuckle.

It's clear that most of you young guns are only used to riding alloy frames and you assume that a steel frame is going to rust before your very eyes.

Now I live in the UK where it has been known to rain (just a little bit):)

I have recently stripped my 1994 Chromoly Kona Cinder Cone (a real Kona) and there is no sign of any rust or corrosion.

You people seriously need to relax and enjoy your bikes, worrying about minor details is only going to stress you all out:)
I live in the Pacific NorthWet and keep my bikes in my garage which becomes a pretty humid place during Orygun's winters (but better than under a tarp outside). I've owned a zillion steel frames including an old ('86) Specialized Stumpy frame that I built into a beach bike (w/zerked BB, hubs, headset, pedals so I could pump out the saltwater by purging it with a grease gun after each beach ride). I literally rode this bike underwater for years. Eventually it did rust out, but the frame never actually failed, rather I tossed it before it crumbled from decay. When I finally saw evidence of extreme internal rust at the vent holes, etc. I knew it was time. Anyway like I said, it took years and this bike was ridden underwater in the surf -- salt water no less. Superstar1 is correct, steel is tough, especially heavy gauge steel and let's face it, our Honzos are made of thick stuff. That said, I sprayed my Honzo's interior with Framesaver as soon as I assembled the bike simply because I had a can lying around... doing so can't hurt. Once rust takes hold, there is no stopping it.

=S
 
#806 · (Edited)
The bottom face of the headtube on mine was so out of square that the shop guy (the only shop in town that had the 43.95mm reamer, special ordered to do the job, no less) had to readjust the tension on the centering cone three times to get a good cut.

Internal diameter was off by a bit too.

Afterward, headset installation (I did that myself) was like a beautiful dream.
 
#810 ·
To lighten up the bike nerdery that is happening, here is an actual riding pic of the Honzo.
First log ride drop of the season.

Bicycle wheel Bicycle frame Mountain bike Natural environment Mountain biking


Now, back to the regular programmed bike nerdery.

I'll add to the nerdery by telling you that I snapped my rear axle of my SunRingle Charger Pro. I was wondering why my rear tire was rubbing like crazy on my ride yesterday. Pulled the wheel off the bike to find I could remove the cassette and freehub with my hand!
This is the first on any bike that I've managed to snap an axle!
 
#811 ·
Been there, done that. I've snapped an axle of a notubes HD (heavy duty) rear hub and just recently bent an axle of a notubes regular hub. I have upgraded to 12x142 and don't anticipate any future failures. BTW, the thru axle resists lateral forces a lot better. It's not scientific, but I have no tire rub marks so far from my 2.4 ardent in the rear. With a quick release, I could make it buzz the frame when taking hard corners or even when pedaling really hard on a switch back.

All Honzo owners should upgrade to 12x142.
To lighten up the bike nerdery that is happening, here is an actual riding pic of the Honzo.
First log ride drop of the season.

View attachment 793067

Now, back to the regular programmed bike nerdery.

I'll add to the nerdery by telling you that I snapped my rear axle of my SunRingle Charger Pro. I was wondering why my rear tire was rubbing like crazy on my ride yesterday. Pulled the wheel off the bike to find I could remove the cassette and freehub with my hand!
This is the first on any bike that I've managed to snap an axle!
 
#813 ·
some parksin

the exit off this log ride is not as big as the entrance (Frick Park)

Bicycle wheel Natural environment Wood Mountain bike Plant community


setup is still in flux. the gnarbar may go or stay, as may the 60mm stem (I could go for a 70mm in spite of possibly incurring eurospec's wrath)

not that it's visible in this picture, but the rear hub is Chris King ISO 9spd laced with black 14-15g to a WTB Laser disc trail 29er rim set up tubeless with an SLX 675 brake caliper; cranks are truvative firex; seatpost is thompson (and it slips a bit >:[ )

the bottom bracket is indeed low...
 

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#819 · (Edited)
While clipless generally makes you a lazier bunny hopper, I'd say the benefits of clipless on a Honzo warrant their use. I ride flat pedals in the winter to keep my feet warm and debated permanently switching pedal systems. But I ended up sticking with my old ATAC pedals anyway.

I'm glad I did. Despite what flat pedal proponents will say, on a single speed, there are times, when riding flat pedals, where you run out of gearing and momentum, and despite your best efforts, you push down on your front pedal and merely raise yourself in to the air rather than propelling the bike forward.

One *can* rip the rear pedal around to keep the party going in those situations, if on a clipless system. Also, spiking yourself with a pedal stud hurts like hell; emergency clip-out generally isn't a problem after the first ride.

That said, I did buy a pair of Hellcats to replace my totally worn out crabon XC shoes. And I almost bought it because the sole interfered with the little raised portion of the rear of the ATAC pedal body.
 
#822 ·
First off, sweet video! Second I don't totally agree with carabao that the trail couldn't be ridden like that on flats. I think an expert on flats could totally shred that trail. What I think clipless is like is full suspension. It makes things easier, faster and more comfortable (except in the case of FM's knees). But some people like to ride flats (or a hardtail) for personal preference, comfort (not the hardtail) or just because. Surely a bunch of Honzo enthusiasts would agree?
 
#824 ·
You're probably right about an expert on flats shredding that trail, but if you're referring to the 2 min. mark where the rider is bucked, I still believe that same rider would definitely be faster clipped in than on flats. Of course the rider could ride the entire trail on flats, but from a speed perspective, I just don't see how being clipped in isn't an advantage resulting in a faster/smoother descent.
 
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