Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

1M views 7K replies 665 participants last post by  David R 
#1 · (Edited)
Kona Honzo Build

2012 Kona Honzo Med.
2012 Fox F29, 120mm, RLC, Tapered, 15mm TA
Stan's Flow Wheelset with 3.30 front hub, 3.30 Heavy Duty rear hub
Maxxis Ardents: fr/2.4exo, rr/2.25
Thomson X4 70mm zero rise stem
Thomson Elite seatpost
Easton Monkeylite xc lo-rise carbon bar 27 inches
Specialized Henge Expert Saddle, ti rails
Odi Rogue lock-ons
Avid Elixirs R 185/160
Sram 991? chain
XT cranks
XT med. cage derailleur
Shimano 12-36t cassette
Niner 32t front chain ring
XT rear shifter
BBG bash
N-gear Jumpstop
Cane Creek Headset / inset top, external lower

27 lbs. 13 ounces

Here's my review after my first ride today:

Just got back from ATT and I'm really, really, happy with the bike.

First of all, I expected the front end to wander on steep climbs, but it stuck, no wandering. This has a lot to do with the steep seat tube. It felt very efficient without any discernable bottom bracket flex. I expected this because the tubes Kona uses are fatter than my old Niner MCR 9. This frame weighs 5.75lbs. where the Niner 853 steel frame weighed 4.5lbs. and doesn't have sliding dropouts. For my weight, about 200lbs., the MCR 9 was nooodly, but comfortable. I felt it absorbed a lot of my pedaling power and the head tube was extremely flexy. The Honzo is a stout frame, and I don't think you can achieve that without it weighing more. I don't notice the weight, but I do notice the power transfer and SOLID feel of the frame. Also, I expected to dab the more technical sections because I'm not tuned to this bike yet, but I cleaned them all.

After reaching the top we lowered our seats and headed back. The words that comes to mind descending on this bike are INSANELY FAWKING AWESOME. Because of the short chain stays, the bike corners like a roller coaster doing a 180. The Honzo's geometry positions you over the rear tire and the pivot point of the bike in the turns. I'm not much of a downhiller, but I was flying and not worrying about any ruts or rocks because the fork and frame just swallowed them up, very confidence inspiring. The chain stays also make coming off jumps more intuitive. With Niner's geometry I always felt like I was waiting for the rear tire when popping off curbs and jumps, but the Kona feels right on.

This is the best bike I have ever owned, period. If you're worried about frame weight, you could save about 1/4-1/2 lb. going with a Canfield Nimble 9. The geometries with 120mm forks are almost identical, but the Nimble 9 has a slacker seat tube, which may affect climbing, and it does not accommodate a tapered fork, two things I really love about the Honzo.

PS - check out this video of the Honzo in action: House of the Big Wheel Part 1: Honzo and Satori on Vimeo

IMG_1499

IMG_1498
 
See less See more
2
#573 ·
So, first post here. I've been researching for some weeks about what bike to buy, I want to get back into biking properly. I used to ride a Trek 6500, an XC bike which I never felt really comfortable on. After much browsing, going to bike dealers, learning about different geometries and equipment, I decided to buy a Kona Honzo (pretty bummed that the 2013 model doesn't have the awesome matte blue finish :().

To further complicate matters, I want to build this bike myself (first time), so I'm only buying the frame, ánd I'm gonna try singlespeed. I've read this entire thread (and others) the last week so I'm pretty up to date about different components to use etc, but I don't find much information about what parts are needed to set this bike up as SS?

Ideally, I would like a front crank/ring that I can keep when I want to switch to gears, without installing a chain guide. Something like an SRAM XX1 (to which I would mate a x9 type 2 rear derailleur), but preferably a bit cheaper.

Also the rear hub, not to sure what to look for, I don't quite understand the difference between a freewheel and a casette hub. And as I understand it's difficult to find a 142x12 freewheel hub?

I'm going to my LBS for ordering the frame tomorrow, so I will ask him these questions too, but I like to be prepared as in the past I've been suckered into buying some shitty components for my commuter as the LBS just wanted to sell the stuff he had laying around.

Any other tips are welcome too!
 
#575 ·
Personally I'd steer clear of screw-on freewheels. There's much more flexibility in freehub / cassette in case you ever decide to run gears. I'm running my Honzo SS with the stock wheelset (142x12 TA rear hub) with spacers on the freehub body and just one cog. It may not be as elegant as a SS-specific rear wheel but I'll cheerfully accept the look of a spacer stack in order to gain the gearing options. I see no reason to exchange the dropouts for QR -- it's not that QR is a "bad" system, it's just that it's not as strong plus it's what the off-road cycling world is leaving in its dust.

--sParty
 
#574 ·
You will be able to set it up SS if you swap the dropouts to QR. CMPHCCSS for the driveside and CMPHCCND non drive side. You have the choice of normal cassette rear wheel and then putting on spacers and single sprocket to get correct chainline. Think you mentioned something about putting gears on so that would be easiest option unless you want to buy two wheels.
 
#576 ·
Thanks guys, took me a while to google what you meant (somehow I always arrive at sheldonbrown.com when googling stuff like this, weird site, but has a lot of useful info). Ordered my frame today, should arrive in 3 days. On to researching the other parts!
 
#577 ·
Since I liked my Revelation so much, I decided to pick up the XX version and a new headset to go with it :thumbsup: No pictures yet as I'm still waiting on the lower cup but I'm looking forward to how this beast rips with 140mm up front.
Also on the list is a Reverb dropper post, the 12x142 dropouts and corresponding Hope axle kit; I have a line for a good deals on all of them.
 
#579 ·
I believe you would need the GXP (or external bearing) version of any crank you buy. BB30 or BB92 or PF30 cranksets use a pressed-in bottom bracket bearing which this frame is not compatible with. Also, I might steer clear of the XX1 crankset as it is designed for a specific chain which might give you compatibility issues with a singlespeed cog. I could be wrong though, XX1 is too new for a lot of this info to be out yet. You can get any regular triple ring crankset (like an XT or something), buy a SS chainring from Salsa or Surly (they're inexpensive and durable), and a cog from Surly (same thing: inexpensive and durable), plus a cheap 8 or 9 speed chain and have a great SS setup. SRAM, Shimano, and FSA also make single ring specific cranksets if you want to go that route as well.
 
#580 ·
Ok thanks. The reason I was considering (not decided yet, so expensive) the xx1 is that if I would decide later on to switch to an 1x setup, I wouldn't need a chainguide with the xx1. I've seen some people here trying the xx1 for a singlespeed, but as you said, it seems too soon for some feedback.
 
#581 ·
I'm considering a small Honzo, but Kona's geo chart states 31.5 inches which seems higher than most other 29er frames in a small/16" size. I noticed from Kona's geo diagram they measure a few inches in front of the BB rather than directly over the BB. Does this explain why it's about 1-2" more than "normal"? Can someone verify on their Honzo build, if the SO is accurate and how much less the measurement is if taken directly over the BB? I probably shouldn't worry too much about SO, if all other measurements look good, but it still has me slightly nervous nonetheless.
 
#586 ·
Well, I pulled the trigger. My Honzo frame is on the way! The thing I'm looking for most in a frame is to be bomb proof.. So far I haven't found a frame that I can ride for a year without breaking. I've broken 4 frames in the past three years. A monocog, a Jabberwocky and two Mariachi's.

Hope the Honzo is up to the challenge.
 
#591 ·
The 2013 Rev forks aren't as simple to change travel as the '12s. Have to purchase a new part from what SRAM rep tells me. I was in a hurry so just swapped my OEM '13 120mm Rev for a '12 Dual Position 140mm Rev, tho I think I would have preferred the '13's solo air circuit. I don't use the dual position.

Anyway I agree 140mm is the way to go, travelwise.

--sParty
 
#598 ·
I couldn't find anything on the Kona site about recommended size for rider hight. I ordered a medium (I'm 6') because the ETT and reach is a little longer than the frames I've been riding. But I see a
Lot of 6' people that are getting the large.

Any 6' guys riding mediums??
I am in the same boat. The specs on the Medium look to match what I would want, but sometimes bikes will fit larger or smaller than the specs on paper.

I am 6' tall and currently riding a TransAM 26er with 650b wheels. 24.2 ETT, 44.2 wheelbase, something like 68.5/73 angles. I ride it with a 50mm stem and I know I don't want a bike that is any longer than the TA. I like the setup, but the BB is something like 13.1 with the bigger wheels, so it doesn't turn that well.

Very interested to hear how the Medium Honzo fits.
 
#599 ·
No wonder I hated the fit of my 26er TransAM, mine was setup with a 50mm stem as well, 780mm bars, and I was always felt cramped and OTB on it being 6'4". But the only advice I can give to you guys is the Honzo rides smaller than ETT leads you to believe (at least IMO). I was hesitant about going with a 26" ETT but I'm sure glad I did. I also had the Large frame (20" regular) at the house before but never built it up to see how it rides, it looked short in the ETT, especially if you plan on running short stems on this bike as it was designed to do.
 
#605 ·
Definitely start out with a 50mm. If you find it short (although I doubt it) move to a 60mm. And definitely wide bars (780+mm) help.

IMO it sounds like the frame is too small for you, hence the need for the longer stem and set back post.
I concur. At 6'2" on a 24" ETT? Idk how you do it. The Honzo is already a wheelie machine, with a setback post, somewhat small frame and ETT, climbing sounds like a fun time for you. Not.

To say a frame is designed around the stem is a little on the kool-aid side...
Then you must be sipping on that Haterade. Look up what Kona Gravity Product Manager Chris Mandell said about the design of this frame and maybe you'll understand it the concept of the small stem on the Honzo.

I can't imagine someone only 2 inches shorter than me 2 frame sizes down and still be comfortable. I did all that before, short ETT and short stems and it was fine for the first hour on the trail, anything over and I've counted the minutes of getting back to the car. And this was on somewhat flat trail riding. And my previous bike rode so fun with a 50mm stem, stepped up to a 70mm, lost it all, and even tried a 90mm, which was super comfortable in terms of reach and sizing, but the fun was lost completely. Long ETT + short stems is winning.
 
#602 ·
As I said, I am just over 6' tall and I was able to test ride both a medium and large Honzo before buying. The medium definitely felt too small for me, too short feeling. I could ride it, but the front wheel seemed close to my feet when turning and the handlebars too close to my knees. The large feels just right to me. It's hard to compare the frame geo numbers because the design is different than other 29ers (I was coming from a 19" Unit and comparing numbers was almost useless). I also have a Banshee Spitfire, and actually those frame numbers for TT and reach are very similar to the Honzo. The Honzo is designed around a short stem, 60mm is what comes on the large. Therefore the top tube and reach will be slightly longer than other bikes designed around long stems. I do wish Kona would have put a sizing chart on the website, that would probably help clear up a lot of these questions.
 
#607 ·
I've got my Honzo set up with a 90mm stem and a set back Thompson post. I'm 5 11 and the bike fits perfectly. Prior to the set back post however, it did feel a little cramped. In regards to stem size and such, I just rode 40 miles on the Black Canyon Trail in Az, a large percentage of the ride was spent hanging out the leg railing downhill turns. Trust me, the bike handles just fine. As far as climbing goes, I do the majority of mine standing so I'm not even coming close to looping out. This being said, I personally think anyone over 5 11 should probably be on a large with a shorter stem. I'm running a 60 mm on my new whip and it does feel good. I also recently went to some 2.4 Ardents front and rear on the Honzo and they absolutely rip my terrain with plenty of clearance. Pic is old but lost in the thread and all my newer ones are too big, even cell phone pics.
 

Attachments

#610 ·
Mine did... I think :)
Still have to figure out what it is, but my frame had a black rock shox maxle 142x12 axle with it. Not sure if it is a front or a rear axle, maybe I'll post a picture of it when I'm home tonight. The frame also included a seatpost qr clamp and clips for the cables.
 
#620 ·
Probably best to contact Hope directly. It may be an axle swap, as opposed to end cap replacements for the Evo line. Just my guess, so best to check with Hope. If you still need to go with the QR dropouts, I may consider going to 142x12 myself and we can swap. I have '12 model with the QR rear and still in build planning stage. Let me know!
 
Top