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  1. #801
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by mitthew View Post
    I'm 6'0" and 33" inseem and ride L - it's perfect for me. Depends how big you like your bikes, my view (for what it's worth), there's a few tweaks you can make to a bike that's a bit small, but less you can do shrink a bike that's too big. Most bike fitting is based on seated position, but also bare in mind, you are likely to be standing more than you would on an XC bike. A few guys my size seem to for the 18".
    That's kind of my thought too but wanted some 'real world' advice. I'm not a big guy by any means (weight wise) so I am wondering if the XL would be too much bike. I'll try to have my LBS order both so I can give them a try.

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I am going to anyway since this is where all of the Honzo owners congregate...

    I've narrowed my decision down to a Honzo or a Trek Stache. Without being too biased (hehe), what do you guys think? Bike will be ridden primarily on singletrack - quite a bit of climbing and just as much downhill.
    Can't believe in 3 days no one has mentioned the obvious: The Stache has very long chainstays, especially compared to the Honzo. It's the short stays of the Honzo that make it so fun. Not even a comparison IMO.
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  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Would you guys recommend a L or XL for someone that is 6'1" w/ a 34" inseam (or so)? I am having a hell of a time deciding which one will work best for me. I rode a large at my LBS and it felt fine. They didn't have an XL so I have nothing to compare to.
    I'm 6'6" 36" inseam on a 20L (which I'm assuming is the same as XL in 2013). The TT of the XL is quite long (26"), so unless you have a very long torso (which probably isn't the case if you have a 34" inseam), I'd stick with L.
    2017 Transmission Smuggler
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  4. #804
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    2013 Honzo MRP 1x Issue

    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??
    Rollin just to keep on rollin'. I don't want to leave this heaven so soon. - Mark Lanegan

  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??

    BB mounted guides are a huge pain. I suggest that you make use of those wonderful ISCG tabs you have a go with a proper guide. I run my bike as a 1x9 and the extra drag that you get with a full chain device is not noticeable while pedaling. I can notice it when my bike is in the repair stand and I am turning by hand, but it's not too bad at all.

    Also a full guide makes it very hard to drop a chain if it is set up properly. I haven't had a chain come off my bike in over 2 seasons of riding on a full guide set up.

    MRP also just came out with this guide for 2013. It's basically a Mini G2 without the lower retention. Check it out. Mountain Racing Products home of MRP, White Brothers, Kreitler, Tamer, and Power Grips | AMG

  6. #806
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??
    I'm currently running my Honzo 1x10 with a Jump Stop and outer bash. Works like a charm. Wasn't into the full-on clunky chainguide system that came with the bike, but then I don't drop anything over a couple feet in height.

    =S
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  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??

    I would also suggest using the ISCG tabs and at least that MRP guide JoshM linked.

    My Honzo is set up SS, but I used a Jumpstop and Bashguard on my AM 26" bike (1x10) for a bit and it sucked, I dropped chain quite a bit. Didn't really cover any big jumps or drops chain would just drop when tearing through rocky, rooty areas. That hasn't been an issue since I started using an e13 LG1+
    Mostly a rigid SS, sometimes a geared HT

  8. #808
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    Thanks for the replies guys. Any thoughts or experience with this:

    Blackspire Einfachx Chainguide 2013 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    I find the MRP 1x is good enough for chain retention it just shifts because of it's BB mounting.
    Rollin just to keep on rollin'. I don't want to leave this heaven so soon. - Mark Lanegan

  9. #809
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    Framesaver

    The fact that some of you are wasting your time worrying about your frames corroding because of rust really amuses me.

    The fact that some of you are going to the lengths of wasting your time using framesaver also makes me chuckle.

    It's clear that most of you young guns are only used to riding alloy frames and you assume that a steel frame is going to rust before your very eyes.

    Now I live in the UK where it has been known to rain (just a little bit)

    I have recently stripped my 1994 Chromoly Kona Cinder Cone (a real Kona) and there is no sign of any rust or corrosion.

    You people seriously need to relax and enjoy your bikes, worrying about minor details is only going to stress you all out

  10. #810
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by superstar1 View Post
    The fact that some of you are wasting your time worrying about your frames corroding because of rust really amuses me.

    The fact that some of you are going to the lengths of wasting your time using framesaver also makes me chuckle.

    It's clear that most of you young guns are only used to riding alloy frames and you assume that a steel frame is going to rust before your very eyes.

    Now I live in the UK where it has been known to rain (just a little bit)

    I have recently stripped my 1994 Chromoly Kona Cinder Cone (a real Kona) and there is no sign of any rust or corrosion.

    You people seriously need to relax and enjoy your bikes, worrying about minor details is only going to stress you all out
    I live in the Pacific NorthWet and keep my bikes in my garage which becomes a pretty humid place during Orygun's winters (but better than under a tarp outside). I've owned a zillion steel frames including an old ('86) Specialized Stumpy frame that I built into a beach bike (w/zerked BB, hubs, headset, pedals so I could pump out the saltwater by purging it with a grease gun after each beach ride). I literally rode this bike underwater for years. Eventually it did rust out, but the frame never actually failed, rather I tossed it before it crumbled from decay. When I finally saw evidence of extreme internal rust at the vent holes, etc. I knew it was time. Anyway like I said, it took years and this bike was ridden underwater in the surf -- salt water no less. Superstar1 is correct, steel is tough, especially heavy gauge steel and let's face it, our Honzos are made of thick stuff. That said, I sprayed my Honzo's interior with Framesaver as soon as I assembled the bike simply because I had a can lying around... doing so can't hurt. Once rust takes hold, there is no stopping it.

    =S
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  11. #811
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    Did any of you who build their Honzo from frame up perform this step when installing the headset? How to build a bike-part 1 of 12 - YouTube

    A friend of mine tells me it is usually not necessary on Kona frames, as they are pretty clean from factory. I'm not sure.

  12. #812
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    I didn't do it for either of the ones I built up, but you should inspect the heatube for any obvious material/paint that might make a headset seat incorrectly.

  13. #813
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    Oh okay, if there are small irregularities I could probably remove them using sand paper.

  14. #814
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    The bottom face of the headtube on mine was so out of square that the shop guy (the only shop in town that had the 43.95mm reamer, special ordered to do the job, no less) had to readjust the tension on the centering cone three times to get a good cut.

    Internal diameter was off by a bit too.

    Afterward, headset installation (I did that myself) was like a beautiful dream.
    Last edited by p4nh4ndle; 04-21-2013 at 02:12 PM.

  15. #815
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    Is that something I could visually verify if so much correction would be needed? Or do you really need those special tools?

  16. #816
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    You could check perpendicularity with a combination square.

    I used a vernier to get an idea of what the internal diameter was like.

  17. #817
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    Since everyone wants to know how much these things weigh: without using any super-light parts, mine (small frame) comes in at 28lbs even, with a tube in the front tire.

    Trail test and glamour shots tomorrow morning (you know, when the light is better).
    Last edited by p4nh4ndle; 04-23-2013 at 03:51 AM.

  18. #818
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    To lighten up the bike nerdery that is happening, here is an actual riding pic of the Honzo.
    First log ride drop of the season.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p4220035.jpg

    Now, back to the regular programmed bike nerdery.

    I'll add to the nerdery by telling you that I snapped my rear axle of my SunRingle Charger Pro. I was wondering why my rear tire was rubbing like crazy on my ride yesterday. Pulled the wheel off the bike to find I could remove the cassette and freehub with my hand!
    This is the first on any bike that I've managed to snap an axle!

  19. #819
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    Been there, done that. I've snapped an axle of a notubes HD (heavy duty) rear hub and just recently bent an axle of a notubes regular hub. I have upgraded to 12x142 and don't anticipate any future failures. BTW, the thru axle resists lateral forces a lot better. It's not scientific, but I have no tire rub marks so far from my 2.4 ardent in the rear. With a quick release, I could make it buzz the frame when taking hard corners or even when pedaling really hard on a switch back.

    All Honzo owners should upgrade to 12x142.
    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    To lighten up the bike nerdery that is happening, here is an actual riding pic of the Honzo.
    First log ride drop of the season.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P4220035.jpg 
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    Now, back to the regular programmed bike nerdery.

    I'll add to the nerdery by telling you that I snapped my rear axle of my SunRingle Charger Pro. I was wondering why my rear tire was rubbing like crazy on my ride yesterday. Pulled the wheel off the bike to find I could remove the cassette and freehub with my hand!
    This is the first on any bike that I've managed to snap an axle!

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    All Honzo owners should upgrade to 12x142.
    Guys, where did you get your 142 drops & how much?

    Thanks for the tip- going 142x12 on my other 29'er so this is good timing....

  21. #821
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    some parksin

    the exit off this log ride is not as big as the entrance (Frick Park)

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-log.jpg

    setup is still in flux. the gnarbar may go or stay, as may the 60mm stem (I could go for a 70mm in spite of possibly incurring eurospec's wrath)

    not that it's visible in this picture, but the rear hub is Chris King ISO 9spd laced with black 14-15g to a WTB Laser disc trail 29er rim set up tubeless with an SLX 675 brake caliper; cranks are truvative firex; seatpost is thompson (and it slips a bit >:[ )

    the bottom bracket is indeed low...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-log.jpg  


  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Guys, where did you get your 142 drops & how much?

    Thanks for the tip- going 142x12 on my other 29'er so this is good timing....

    You purchase them by calling Kona's store. I think they were $60 for the pair and the maxle lite could be found for another $60 online.

  23. #823
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    I managed to make some photo trickery with my sequence shots of the log ride.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-trashpano.jpg

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    You purchase them by calling Kona's store. I think they were $60 for the pair and the maxle lite could be found for another $60 online.
    I'd be all over it, if only the Sun Ringle Charger Expert 2011 were convertible. The only option right now for me is to get some Stan's 10mm endcaps and run a 10mm QR or DT Swiss axle since I read they fit the Sun Ringle hub. Another option would be to get a Hope Pro 2 Evo 28h rear hub and rebuild my rear wheel, but that's only the last resort if something does happen to my stock hub and Sun Ringle won't warranty. But in all honesty, last season I was much heavier and didn't notice much flex in the rear end running the Charger Experts and ditched the flimsy QR skewer for a Chromag QR. Maybe I'm not riding hard enough lol, but really my rear end feels just as still when I was on a set of Mavic EX721 36h laced to Hope Pro 2 hubs before this bike. And those were running a solid 10mm nutted axle too on the TransAM.

    As it's still raining like mad here in the Midwest, last minute upgrades have been ordered before I get it dirty for the first time soon, I'm going clipless!! Shimano AM45 shoes and 785 XT Trail SPD pedals en route. I will either love or hate this experience, but I'm hoping for the former.
    konahonzo

  25. #825
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I managed to make some photo trickery with my sequence shots of the log ride.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	TrashPano.jpg 
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    Very nice on the log exit/drop and the photo sequencing as well.

    =S
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  26. #826
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    With regards to stiffness, I can't say I definitely feel it, but I know it's stiffer because the lack of tire buzz is undeniable. I also think it corners more accurately, but it's hard to pinpoint. The lateral stiffness actually seems to amplify tire squirm.

    I go back and forth with flats/clipless. I think you'll like the control and power they give you, but you'll miss the instant dabability. They allow you to lighten the rear end and make you smoother because you don't have to weight the pedals. I think they make me 15-20 percent faster uphill and over chunky trails. You just don't have to think about your feet and can focus on the terrain. If you want a much lighter shoe I recommend the Mavic Alpine XL.

    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I'd be all over it, if only the Sun Ringle Charger Expert 2011 were convertible. The only option right now for me is to get some Stan's 10mm endcaps and run a 10mm QR or DT Swiss axle since I read they fit the Sun Ringle hub. Another option would be to get a Hope Pro 2 Evo 28h rear hub and rebuild my rear wheel, but that's only the last resort if something does happen to my stock hub and Sun Ringle won't warranty. But in all honesty, last season I was much heavier and didn't notice much flex in the rear end running the Charger Experts and ditched the flimsy QR skewer for a Chromag QR. Maybe I'm not riding hard enough lol, but really my rear end feels just as still when I was on a set of Mavic EX721 36h laced to Hope Pro 2 hubs before this bike. And those were running a solid 10mm nutted axle too on the TransAM.

    As it's still raining like mad here in the Midwest, last minute upgrades have been ordered before I get it dirty for the first time soon, I'm going clipless!! Shimano AM45 shoes and 785 XT Trail SPD pedals en route. I will either love or hate this experience, but I'm hoping for the former.

  27. #827
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    While clipless generally makes you a lazier bunny hopper, I'd say the benefits of clipless on a Honzo warrant their use. I ride flat pedals in the winter to keep my feet warm and debated permanently switching pedal systems. But I ended up sticking with my old ATAC pedals anyway.

    I'm glad I did. Despite what flat pedal proponents will say, on a single speed, there are times, when riding flat pedals, where you run out of gearing and momentum, and despite your best efforts, you push down on your front pedal and merely raise yourself in to the air rather than propelling the bike forward.

    One *can* rip the rear pedal around to keep the party going in those situations, if on a clipless system. Also, spiking yourself with a pedal stud hurts like hell; emergency clip-out generally isn't a problem after the first ride.

    That said, I did buy a pair of Hellcats to replace my totally worn out crabon XC shoes. And I almost bought it because the sole interfered with the little raised portion of the rear of the ATAC pedal body.
    Last edited by p4nh4ndle; 04-25-2013 at 03:58 AM. Reason: syntax

  28. #828
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    This video shows situations where clipless is ideal. Sure it can all be done on flats, but I don't think it could be done at this speed or as smooth. Especially check out the 2:00 min mark.


  29. #829
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    Not to date myself, but my first decade mountain bike riding I rode clipped in exclusively. Then along came "free ride"! It was immediately obvious that flats were the way to go for 90% of us. I saw too many friends get injured due to being stuck to their bikes while airborne or coming off elevated stuff, especially at whistler.

    So I spent 1-2 seasons riding SPD's for XC riding and flats for FR/DH, but never feeling comfortable. So I switched to flats full time 5-6yrs ago (?)and realized a few things:
    I enjoy riding flats more, especially since I can stand on the edge of the outside pedal while cornering, shift my feet to point where I want the bike to go, etc.
    Jumping became a lot more intuitive.
    My knees no longer hurt after long rides. Although clips allow you to pull up with your pedal stroke, I am not sure thatís a good thing!
    Rides that involved hike-a-bike or trail building were more fun. And most all good rides have some!
    Once my technique adjusted, clips no longer seemed to provide a climbing advantage. I also found I could run my saddle lower which is a bonus for technical climbing.

    I still put in ~100 miles a week on a road bike clipped in. I donít really notice the difference going back & forth anymore. I might try a few rides clipped in this summer, just to mix it up, but there is no doubt in my mind that flat pedals build better technique. Searching around you will notice Jinya runs flats on most of his bikes.

  30. #830
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    First off, sweet video! Second I don't totally agree with carabao that the trail couldn't be ridden like that on flats. I think an expert on flats could totally shred that trail. What I think clipless is like is full suspension. It makes things easier, faster and more comfortable (except in the case of FM's knees). But some people like to ride flats (or a hardtail) for personal preference, comfort (not the hardtail) or just because. Surely a bunch of Honzo enthusiasts would agree?

  31. #831
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    I enjoy the flats vs. clips topic and the insight different riders provide, but in the end it always comes back to rider preferance based on terrain and purpose. I like both and wouldn't want to have to commit to either. It's fun going back and forth, but from a performance standpoint I find being clipped in more efficient and faster for me up and down.

    Btw, I read an interview with Jinya where he stated that clipless allow him to be smoother and faster, but he uses flats for huge jumps, gaps, and gnarlier pursuits.
    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Not to date myself, but my first decade mountain bike riding I rode clipped in exclusively. Then along came "free ride"! It was immediately obvious that flats were the way to go for 90% of us. I saw too many friends get injured due to being stuck to their bikes while airborne or coming off elevated stuff, especially at whistler.

    So I spent 1-2 seasons riding SPD's for XC riding and flats for FR/DH, but never feeling comfortable. So I switched to flats full time 5-6yrs ago (?)and realized a few things:
    I enjoy riding flats more, especially since I can stand on the edge of the outside pedal while cornering, shift my feet to point where I want the bike to go, etc.
    Jumping became a lot more intuitive.
    My knees no longer hurt after long rides. Although clips allow you to pull up with your pedal stroke, I am not sure thatís a good thing!
    Rides that involved hike-a-bike or trail building were more fun. And most all good rides have some!
    Once my technique adjusted, clips no longer seemed to provide a climbing advantage. I also found I could run my saddle lower which is a bonus for technical climbing.

    I still put in ~100 miles a week on a road bike clipped in. I donít really notice the difference going back & forth anymore. I might try a few rides clipped in this summer, just to mix it up, but there is no doubt in my mind that flat pedals build better technique. Searching around you will notice Jinya runs flats on most of his bikes.

  32. #832
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    You're probably right about an expert on flats shredding that trail, but if you're referring to the 2 min. mark where the rider is bucked, I still believe that same rider would definitely be faster clipped in than on flats. Of course the rider could ride the entire trail on flats, but from a speed perspective, I just don't see how being clipped in isn't an advantage resulting in a faster/smoother descent.

    Quote Originally Posted by ILVMTB View Post
    First off, sweet video! Second I don't totally agree with carabao that the trail couldn't be ridden like that on flats. I think an expert on flats could totally shred that trail. What I think clipless is like is full suspension. It makes things easier, faster and more comfortable (except in the case of FM's knees). But some people like to ride flats (or a hardtail) for personal preference, comfort (not the hardtail) or just because. Surely a bunch of Honzo enthusiasts would agree?

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    It's been covered so many times.

    Cane Creek 40

    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40 EC44/40 1.5" Lower Assembly
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40-Series ZS44 Upper Assembly

    Cane Creek 110
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 110 EC44/40 1.5" Lower Assembly
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 110-Series ZS44 1 1/8" Upper Assembly

    Chris King Inset7
    Universal Cycles -- Chris King Griplock InSet 7 Tapered Headset

    Nukerproof
    Nukeproof Warhead 44IETS Headset 2012 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    I have a CC40 and would definitely buy it again, anything above that is just bike bling.

    There's also a Hope headset that fits, its lower cup is huge and most likely will have to be special ordered via LBS from Hope UK directly.
    So, I think I have bought the wrong bottom assembly. The website I ordered them from only listed EC44, so I thought that was the right one. Obviously, looking at the picture, it doesn't fit. Or am I doing something wrong?

    It doesn't help that the Cane Creek website (110-Series) names it EC44/40 but when you click on the image, and select the black one, it says EC44/47, just as my one does.

    And of course I noticed this after the period in which I could return it has expired

    I did get the wrong one, didn't I?
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20130426_221723.jpg

  34. #834
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    Looks to me like you have the correct cup/bearing, but the wrong crown race for your fork. You probably have the crown race for a straight 1-1/8" steerer, rather than the 1.5 crown race for a tapered steerer.

  35. #835
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    It all came in one little box, are you supposed to buy the crown race seperately? Even without the crown race the cup doesn't go all the way down the steerer tube. Only when I remove the bearing inside the cup does it drop all the way down.

  36. #836
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    You should be able to just order the correct crown race and lower bearing for 1.5" tapered to get it to work. The cup looks correct. Try calling CC directly. They have always been very helpful.

  37. #837
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    I'll mail them (I live in Europe), but I doubt if the cup is correct. With the bearing and crown race removed it fits with only a mm or 2 to spare, I don't see how it could include any bearing in that small space. I think the correct EC44/40 cup has a wider lower body to accomodate the bearing as the one I got. Or then again, maybe I'm wrong again. Weird that their website doesn't mention the EC44/47, I've only found it in an older catalogue, which says it is indeed meant for a traditional steerer. (http://old.canecreek.com/manuals/201...ek_OEM_110.pdf)

  38. #838
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    This is what Cane Creek said:
    There are two different EC44 assemblies, you just got the wrong one. The EC44/40 is to convert to a fork that is tapered 1 1/8 to 1.5, which could be used with a reducer crown race for a straight 1 1/8 steerer ( EC44/30). The EC44/33 is to convert to a fork that is tapered 1 1/8 to 1 1/4, it uses a 47mm bearing (1 1/4).

    Still don't know what the EC44/47 is though, but it's obviously not the correct one.

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  40. #840
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    You're in San Diego, right? How do you like riding the bike on trails around here?

  41. #841
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    You're in San Diego, right? How do you like riding the bike on trails around here?
    I could go on and on about how much I love this bike. I started this thread almost two years ago. It's simply the perfect bike for my style of riding and what I like to ride, which is all mountain and the occasional enduro race. Buy one, you won't regret it. Centre City Bikes in Escondido is a great shop to deal with. Marc is a cool guy.

  42. #842
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    I paid him a visit a few weekends ago - seemed like an awesome guy. Should be ready to purchase something in the next month or so.

  43. #843
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmreal View Post
    I would also suggest using the ISCG tabs and at least that MRP guide JoshM linked.

    My Honzo is set up SS, but I used a Jumpstop and Bashguard on my AM 26" bike (1x10) for a bit and it sucked, I dropped chain quite a bit. Didn't really cover any big jumps or drops chain would just drop when tearing through rocky, rooty areas. That hasn't been an issue since I started using an e13 LG1+
    Thanks for the input. I purchased the e13 LS1 and it works like a charm.

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    Rollin just to keep on rollin'. I don't want to leave this heaven so soon. - Mark Lanegan

  44. #844
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    Long time reader first time poster. I'm looking to build a 2012 Honzo SS. I just bought the frame and am wanting to do my first ground up build. I'm coming from a Haro Mary SS. I'm a big guy bout 6'1" 240lbs. So I'd like for this build to be as stout as possible. I'm essentially looking for a build that will last me awhile but not wanting to spend crazy amounts of money. I was gonna start with a 2012 large Honzo frame and a 140mm Revelation RCT3 front fork. Can anyone recommend a SS build list for the rest of the parts for me? Thanks

  45. #845
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    Can't help with the SS parts list, but I think you should consider a different fork. The Pike would be my first choice and it comes out on June 10th. I run a fox float 34 and I'm happy with it, but the 35mm stanchions of the Pike has me curious. I can recommend SLX cranks and Renthal chainrings and bars. They're stout. Oh, and Flow EX wheels.

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    Why should I consider a different fork? That Pike looks great, but I have a feeling it will be quite a bit more than a leftover RCT3 roughly $600. The rest sounds great.

  47. #847
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    The RCT3 is fine, especially if it's 20mm axle, but considering your weight (I'm 200 pounds) I thought you'd appreciate the stiffest fork available. I know I can tell a huge difference between my Float 32 and Float 34. $600 is a great deal, BTW.

  48. #848
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    Oh ok. I would like a stiffer fork. Maybe I should look at the float 34. Any ideas on price of the pike?

  49. #849
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    I think you may be able to preorder from Universal cycles and get 15% off retail. You'll have to shop around. Retail is over $900. FYI, the pike and float 34 are 15mm only.

  50. #850
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    I felt a bigger difference going from the 32mm Revelation to the 34mm Float than axle size. I wouldn't pay much attention to the 20mm debate. Definitely recommend going with 34mm platform fork. I was similar weight last year and the Revelation felt like a noodle. I love my Fox Float 34 and would buy it again for sure. As for the Pike, it's uncharted territory yet, I wouldn't be buying a first year product. Look at the CTD stuff. Only lasted a year before Fox has changed their tunes completely on the them.

    If you're dead-set on the Revelation, the RL Revelation under $430 from CRC is also worth a look.

    Renthal bars for sure. Especially if you're getting the 2012 blue frameset. I've been curious to see how those match the blue.
    konahonzo

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    Thanks eurospek. I'll look into the fox 34. Just afraid that it may be outta my budget. Are you saying the difference in the RCT3 is negligible over the RL? What renthals specifically? Thanks

  52. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad2064 View Post
    Long time reader first time poster. I'm looking to build a 2012 Honzo SS. I just bought the frame and am wanting to do my first ground up build. I'm coming from a Haro Mary SS. I'm a big guy bout 6'1" 240lbs. So I'd like for this build to be as stout as possible. I'm essentially looking for a build that will last me awhile but not wanting to spend crazy amounts of money. I was gonna start with a 2012 large Honzo frame and a 140mm Revelation RCT3 front fork. Can anyone recommend a SS build list for the rest of the parts for me? Thanks
    Check out this build: Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    I'm *still* working on my build, I bought an XX1 crankset, a wolftooth 32t chainring, a surly cog + spacers for the rear. dt swiss hubs, flow ex rims, chromag osx fubars, and also the rct3 that was/is on discount on crc. They shipped me a wrong bottom headset, I'm waiting for the exchange on that to finally put my bike together.

  53. #853
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad2064 View Post
    Thanks eurospek. I'll look into the fox 34. Just afraid that it may be outta my budget. Are you saying the difference in the RCT3 is negligible over the RL? What renthals specifically? Thanks
    The X-Fusion Trace 140 fork is worth checking out, cheaper than Fox 34, but same 34mm legs. No idea if they are finally in stock though. As for Renthals, they only make one model, one color. You just need to decide on length and rise. I've been wanting to try out a set of them forever now, just hard giving up my Chromag OSX bars. And I'm on the hunt for some 800mm bars now.
    konahonzo

  54. #854
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad2064 View Post
    Long time reader first time poster. I'm looking to build a 2012 Honzo SS. I just bought the frame and am wanting to do my first ground up build. I'm coming from a Haro Mary SS. I'm a big guy bout 6'1" 240lbs. So I'd like for this build to be as stout as possible. I'm essentially looking for a build that will last me awhile but not wanting to spend crazy amounts of money. I was gonna start with a 2012 large Honzo frame and a 140mm Revelation RCT3 front fork. Can anyone recommend a SS build list for the rest of the parts for me? Thanks

    Hey Brad2064,

    I built my Honzo up SS and went with
    -Surly cog and chainring both have been good to me with no issues.

    -SLX brakes and cranks are also recommended here. I started with 175mm on the cranks but ended up switching to 170mm due to a good amount of pedal strikes.

    -Truvativ AKA stem (black) and bar (ice grey). Looked into Chromag and Renthal but decided to save some cash and I am happy with the route I took.

    -130mm (adjustable to 120 or 140) RS Revelation RL from CRC. The fork was affordable and has treated me fine, can't say I notice flexing but I can't compare it to another fork so there is that. I have noticed some creaking up front which I am ok with. I weigh 190 without gear.

    -Built up Hope Pro 2 Evo's on WTB i23 rims and they have been great, super easy to mount tubeless. I would def recommend as an alternative to Stans.
    Mostly a rigid SS, sometimes a geared HT

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    Bmreal: thanks for the great specifics on your build. Just what I needed.

    On a side note, what is the longest travel shock you can get away with on this frame? Is 170mm out of the question? Just ridiculous? Better to stick around 140mm? Thanks

  56. #856
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad2064 View Post
    Bmreal: thanks for the great specifics on your build. Just what I needed.

    On a side note, what is the longest travel shock you can get away with on this frame? Is 170mm out of the question? Just ridiculous? Better to stick around 140mm? Thanks
    What single crown 29er fork comes with 170mm?? Do tell.
    konahonzo

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    Haha. Yea that does sound suspect, but my plan was to modify a Fox 36. Thoughts? Besides you shouldn't hack up a perfectly good fork.

  58. #858
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    [QUOTE=bmreal;10395555]Hey Brad2064,

    I built my Honzo up SS and went with

    -130mm (adjustable to 120 or 140) RS Revelation RL from CRC. The fork was affordable and has treated me fine, can't say I notice flexing but I can't compare it to another fork so there is that. I have noticed some creaking up front which I am ok with. I weigh 190 without gear.


    I finally got mine built up and went the same route as you with the RS Revelation RL 130mm, although it wasn't adjustable to 140mm. Unless I'm missing something.

    I'm attaching a pic of what I found inside mine. It looks like a spacer that can be removed, but I believe it's part of the bump stop, because I couldn't separate it.

    Have you actually adjusted yours?

    Anyone who knows, please school me!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1119.jpg  


  59. #859
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    Howard619,

    I have not actually adjusted my fork yet.
    The link Eurospek posted should be helpful if you haven't checked it already. My understanding is that you should be able to remove the plastic "spacer" furthest right on your photo to gain travel or add another spacer to reduce the travel. My fork came with 2 extra spacers for this, just haven't done it.
    Mostly a rigid SS, sometimes a geared HT

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    Thanks Eurospek...I used that as my guide when I did the work.

    Bmreal - please keep me posted if you try it. I personally would like that little bit of travel and slackness.

    Does anyone know of a headset with offset cups that will slacken the 44mm ID headtube like the Honzo uses? Not sure if the CaneCreek makes their Angleset in 44mm, but I'm a bit reluctant to try that one with the negative reviews I've heard related to alignment and creaking.

  62. #862
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    I've done some searching and couldn't find anything on the topic, so I thought to post here since there seem to be a few running the Rockshox Revelation RL.

    My damper seems really loud on the return stroke. Is this normal? The fork feels super plush and controlled otherwise. I thought it might be air mixing with oil, but after stripping down the fork and refilling it, I added the recommended amount of oil which pretty much tops out the damper chamber with no room for air to mix. Also makes me question the point of a bladder as used in the new Pike and Fox Fits.

    Thanks in advance for anyone replies!

  63. #863
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    That's the one I'd like to get, but they don't seem to make one for 44mm headtubes. I've emailed them about it and haven't received a response either.

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    Last edited by Balder; 05-21-2013 at 10:59 PM.

  66. #866
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    Holy crap! I thought these frames were bomb proof. What do you mean you drove of the side of a one foot bridge? You just dropped one foot and the frame broke?

    Quote Originally Posted by Balder View Post

    Here is a picture of my Honzo. Just drove of the side of a 1 foot ladder bridge. Kona would not take any warranty claims. Dont really know if i want to buy a new Kona frame, even though i was really happy with the geo.

  67. #867
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    It's a stout frame, but you can't really expect it to take a hit like that and survive. 4130 does not dent easily so that must have been a hell of a hit.

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    Last edited by Balder; 05-21-2013 at 11:00 PM.

  69. #869
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    How much do you weigh?

    There are bigger guys here riding their Honzo very aggressively, RideEverything is one of them who comes to mind, he shreds on his Honzo from the pics and vids he post. I for one was well over 250 lb last year, 6'4" and had no problems with 1 to 2 foot drops on my frame. Wasn't even much trouble for me Sun Ringle Charger Expert wheelset as well. This is one stout frame, much stiffer from my previous Transition TransAM and On-One 456 Summer Season.
    konahonzo

  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balder View Post

    Here is a picture of my Honzo. Just drove of the side of a 1 foot ladder bridge. Kona would not take any warranty claims. Dont really know if i want to buy a new Kona frame, even though i was really happy with the geo.
    From Kona's site
    "New for 2012 we introduce the Honzo, a balls-out, aggressive all-mountain 29er Cromoly hardtail."
    What size frame is that? I wonder if the smaller frames are susceptible to this type of failure because of the lack of triangulation and the seat tube gusset. I hope you're alright. You must have went over the bars.

  71. #871
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    Well i am "only" 85kg = 188 Lbs and the frame was a medium.

  72. #872
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    I'm not doubting your story, but I weigh 200lbs and have done some good drops and all is good. Did you land badly? It looks like you ran directly into the ground, or into the back of a parked car!

    Quote Originally Posted by Balder View Post
    Well i am "only" 85kg = 188 Lbs and the frame was a medium.

  73. #873
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    The front end should be bent the other direction...one would think. Either way, that sucks. I have a lightly used (compared to yours) 18" for sale if interested.

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    Last edited by Balder; 05-21-2013 at 11:00 PM.

  75. #875
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    Why did they refuse your warranty claim?

  76. #876
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    I love the JRA* destroyed frame stories!
    I was JRA and my bike totally exploded! I swear I wasn't doing anything massive!


    * JRA - Just Riding Along

    There has to be more to the story than what you're telling us.
    Just riding off of a 1 foot drop does not result in a frame this badly damaged. Thats like riding off of a large curb.
    That damage looks like the bike was smashed head-on into something. As someone else stated, the way the frame is bent indicates a force from a different direction other than riding off of a drop.

    Yes, I am questioning the validity of your "story".

  77. #877
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    29er wheels are so strong they crunched the Honzo.

  78. #878
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    Last edited by Balder; 05-21-2013 at 10:58 PM.

  79. #879
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    so, basically, you're telling us you crashed "of [sic] a ... ladder bridge," not rode or dropped.

  80. #880
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    Looks like it's been run over by a truck after falling off a bike rack on the way to the trails.

  81. #881
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    The last time I saw damage like that it was caused by the owner entering a car park in a car with the bike in a roof mounted rack. There was one of those overhead height limiter/restrictor things and the driver forgot that the bike was being carried and attempted to drive under it, obviously totalled the bike and caused further costly damage to the roof of the vehicle.

  82. #882
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    I think the guy already left...some suspicious minds here! dunno why he would lie?

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    Makes no sense why he would lie, but his story also makes no sense. Maybe he was hoping to get some exposure and the news would get to Kona and would possibly get a new frame. The fact that he has deleted everything after a few people questioned the validity of his claims kinda tells me we were right. Of course, I have no idea what happened, but I can tell you absolutely that going off a 1foot drop will not damage even a cross country frame like that.

    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    I think the guy already left...some suspicious minds here! dunno why he would lie?

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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    I think I need to try gears... Ever since I started riding I have been all about the singlespeed. I have only ever needed the ONE gear. Now, I love the crap out of riding my Honzo, but I have to say it is really exhausting to ride compared to the XC bikes I am used to. It seems to take twice the amount of energy to ride. So am I crazy, or would I get a lot more fun out of it with a 1x9 set up?

  85. #885
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    I am in the opposite position. I love riding singlespeed, but I bought the full Honzo build with 1x9. I like it a lot, but I miss riding singlespeed. I have been riding it in one gear to get the feel for it and I like it. I decided to get another frame to build as a singlespeed and that one will probably get more ride time.

    I can kind of see what you are saying about it taking more energy, but I think it is more of a setup issue. Not sure how yours is setup, but I've got mine setup for more comnfortable descending. Bigger tires and higher bar height so it does take more effort, but i think it wouldn't be as noticeable if it were setup more xc style.

    With that said, I do like the 1x9 setup also. I can ride that pretty much everywhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint View Post
    I think I need to try gears... Ever since I started riding I have been all about the singlespeed. I have only ever needed the ONE gear. Now, I love the crap out of riding my Honzo, but I have to say it is really exhausting to ride compared to the XC bikes I am used to. It seems to take twice the amount of energy to ride. So am I crazy, or would I get a lot more fun out of it with a 1x9 set up?

  86. #886
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    My honzo

    Here's the Honzo. Just put XX1 on it along with a slew of other goods. I love this bike! I have not yet seen one with XX1 so I thought you all might enjoy this.




    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo.jpg

  87. #887
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    I am going with garage, drive-through, or other low-hanging fruit of doom for bicycles that committed this crime. I'd say parking garage is a good bet. Otherwise he must have really been JRA'in........


    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Holy crap! I thought these frames were bomb proof. What do you mean you drove of the side of a one foot bridge? You just dropped one foot and the frame broke?

  88. #888
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    looking nice jonboy!

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    Well thank you! The last touch will be a dropper post!

    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    looking nice jonboy!

  90. #890
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    jonboy,

    How does it ride with the XX1?
    Is it more versatile?

  91. #891
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint View Post
    I think I need to try gears... Ever since I started riding I have been all about the singlespeed. I have only ever needed the ONE gear. Now, I love the crap out of riding my Honzo, but I have to say it is really exhausting to ride compared to the XC bikes I am used to. It seems to take twice the amount of energy to ride. So am I crazy, or would I get a lot more fun out of it with a 1x9 set up?
    Is it the geometry fork length or components that make it tougher to ride single speed? I'm considering picking up a frame and riding it single speed but now I don't know. Is anyone else out there running their Honzo single?

  92. #892
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by djembe975 View Post
    Is it the geometry fork length or components that make it tougher to ride single speed? I'm considering picking up a frame and riding it single speed but now I don't know. Is anyone else out there running their Honzo single?
    Mostly, it's because the bike is just so damn playful it makes me ride harder and burn out faster. Drop offs that I used to just roll down I now huck off. I find myself charging every little root ball and lip to jump off of it. So it's not so much the bike, it's the way I ride it.

  93. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint View Post
    I think I need to try gears... Ever since I started riding I have been all about the singlespeed. I have only ever needed the ONE gear. Now, I love the crap out of riding my Honzo, but I have to say it is really exhausting to ride compared to the XC bikes I am used to. It seems to take twice the amount of energy to ride. So am I crazy, or would I get a lot more fun out of it with a 1x9 set up?
    Nope you're not crazy, I felt the exact same thing and switched over to 1x9 for now. My SS rigid XC setup has been 32x20 with 80mm suspension corrected rigid fork, and was drained the first ride out on my Honzo setup as SS, same gearing with 140mm Revelation. Descending more than made up for the tough climbing on that gearing though. Since then, I've been riding it 1x9, and flipping between just the 23t and 20t cogs out back has been working out great. I have been toying with the idea of going back to SS with a 21t or 22t cog, but the idea of having on the fly options is nice.

  94. #894
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    Anybody else have the following problem with the Honzo:

    Your Honzo is such a good bike that it's pushed your riding to a new level; but now, you're wondering if you should try a full suspension 26" bike?

    Also, slipping seatposts...

    These are tough problems to have.

  95. #895
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    I have ridden my Blur LT after the Honzo and the Honzo is still more fun. I did get a chance to demo a Trance X 29er and that was also an amazing bike. It was just as playful as the Honzo. Getting air on the Trance was so easy and comfortable. Although it was a much more comfortable ride, I still am happier with the Honzo. There is a connection you feel with the trail that you just don't get on a fs.

    I definitely do have the seatpost slippage.

    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    Anybody else have the following problem with the Honzo:

    Your Honzo is such a good bike that it's pushed your riding to a new level; but now, you're wondering if you should try a full suspension 26" bike?

    Also, slipping seatposts...

    These are tough problems to have.

  96. #896
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    Are the seatpost slippages on 2012 or 2013 bikes?

  97. #897
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    Mine slipped, but I was using a crappy collar. Got a Salsa and no more slippage. Although, the fit is slightly looser than my other bikes.

    Quote Originally Posted by superstar1 View Post
    Are the seatpost slippages on 2012 or 2013 bikes?

  98. #898
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    For all the times that I want to lower my post in the middle of a ride, I should just get an allen bolt collar...

  99. #899
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    Your Honzo is such a good bike that it's pushed your riding to a new level; but now, you're wondering if you should try a full suspension 26" bike?

    Also, slipping seatposts...
    No slippage on mine (2012 frame, 30.9 KS post with shim, stock QR).

    Sold my 26" FS and never miss it, but the banshee prime does get most of my riding time. It's a good "bigger brother" to the honzo.

  100. #900
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    Zero slippage with a Chromag QR and a Thomson and Reverb post. Your results may vary.
    konahonzo

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