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  1. #1676
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    Doubt it. Maybe carbon. To match the rumoured Carbon Process 111.

    As for 2015, I see no major changes other than a less than desirable color scheme IMO (seems to be getting worse every year lol), a beefier seat tube brace, and no more 44mm headtube. Looks to be a tapered headtube now.


  2. #1677
    Eating Hot Pockets
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    I too have heard rumblings of a carbon Honzo.
    'Carbonzo'? Lol

  3. #1678
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    Titanium Honzo is a terrible idea. Carbon Honzo is even more idiotic. Better quality steel Honzo is more like it, but I don't see that happening. 2015 is the nicest looking Honzo so far. We can only hope that it would be the lightest too.

  4. #1679
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    That color scheme's not too bad, I still prefer my 2013 frame though. Has there been any incidents I wonder that makes them change the seat tube bracing quite often?

  5. #1680
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeArman View Post
    That color scheme's not too bad, I still prefer my 2013 frame though. Has there been any incidents I wonder that makes them change the seat tube bracing quite often?
    The seat tube bracing is for a lowered standover finally like they claimed. If you remember when they released the 2013 frameset (gold/orange), they announced that it had a lowered standover from 2012 but geo was relatively unchanged from 2012 to even 2014. Standover height has been the same all along.

    this year's Honzo features a lower top tube for increased standover and a new 142x12 rear axle for increased lateral stability
    KONAWORLD

  6. #1681
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    Titanium Honzo is a terrible idea. Carbon Honzo is even more idiotic. Better quality steel Honzo is more like it, but I don't see that happening. 2015 is the nicest looking Honzo so far. We can only hope that it would be the lightest too.
    It would be terrible if it was priced like the titanium Explosif or Raijin, close to $2000. Retain the same sizing, price it along the lines of the Carver 420 or Titus Fireline Evo and then you'd have a winner. But ideally I would be just okay with better tubing on the standard Honzo. Something under 6 lbs for the XL would be ideal.

  7. #1682
    Nor­wegr
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    I'm parked.

  8. #1683
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    420 and Fireline are glorified trail bikes, they are built around 120mm of maximum travel. Titanium can work in that case. It's working for Cove Hummer 27.5 too, although don't expect too much forgiveness from that frame. But if you want 140mm on a 29er hardtail (we are now probably in the all mountain realm of the marketing), you need more titanium. So the frame becomes more stiff and the weight difference is not worth the money.

  9. #1684
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post




    I'm parked.
    Look on the bright side. Now you can spend even more time tinkering on the Honzo instead of riding it.

  10. #1685
    Nor­wegr
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    I know right, this wasn't a riding accident. My torque wrench exploded on me while I was tinkering

    I landed after a jump and the hans dampf lost grip on what I think was a rogue rock, slid right out from under me and I faceplanted. Helmet and backpack with a backplate was a good thing to have that day, the straps on the pack held the bone in place

  11. #1686
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    You can be sarcastic all you want, and let's be honest, right now that's all you can do. But you're not looking on the bright side. And there's more than one, according to your description of the accident.

  12. #1687
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    These photo's will probably make some of you color-matching haters cringe, but I just landed a custom anodized Thomson seat post clamp on eBay Up next, mango King hubs to get rid of the boat anchors and MAYBE a mango King bottom bracket and the color matching is done
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2792_zps0e6ab026.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2793_zpsde6dd99a.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2794_zpsd0f539f3.jpg

  13. #1688
    SP Singletrack rocks
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    no non action shots.

    2012 Honzo Frame M
    Manitou Tower Pro 120mm
    Cane Creek 110

    Front wheel = Hope Pro 2, wheelsmith 1.7/2.0 Flow Ex
    Rear Wheel = DT Swiss 240 SS. Wheelsmith 1.7/2.0 Flow Ex
    Tires = F2.30 Maxxis High Roller 2 Exo 3c,R MAxxis Ikon 2.35 Exo 3c

    Brakes - Avid Elixer 9 brakes

    Cockpit

    Kore 35mm stem
    Truvative stylo single speed bars
    Ergon Ge-1 Grips
    Thompson Elite post 9 reverb coming soon)
    Fizik Tundra

    Drive train

    Crank - Truvative Stylo SS crank(will be replaced by either and XT or atlas when I can

    Raceface narrow wide 34t
    BBG Bash
    Endless SS Cog 20t
    Sram 891 chain

    27lb 9 oz with 2 high rollers 2 on, slightly lighter when I have an Ikon on the back or Ikon front and rear

  14. #1689
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    no more 44mm headtube. Looks to be a tapered headtube now.

    So no more mix-n-match bottom cups to fine tune your headtube angle then? That's a bit disappointing.

  15. #1690
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    What rear derailleurs are compatible with the 40T OneUp Sprocket?

    The OneUp 40T sprocket is compatible with the same rear derailleurs mentioned above. In addition, when used in a 1X system, the OneUp 40T sprocket is compatible with Zee FR and Saint (when set in FR mode) on bikes with 25mm or less suspension chain growth. To check the chain growth of your suspension ask the manufacturer or follow the steps below

    - Measure the distance between the rear axle and crank axle.

    - Deflate the rear shock and cycle the suspension to find and measure the spot in the travel where this distance is the longest

    - The difference between these numbers is the chain growth of your suspension

    ----------

    Guess the Honzo + Zee + wimp cog will work just fine then.

  16. #1691
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    So, I'm almost certainly going through with the refinish job. I found a reputable powder coating shop locally and I'm trying to get the details (color, sheen) finalized. Have any of you successfully removed/reattached the (2012-2014) head tube badge? Anyone know how it's attached? I really want to get that thing off and on without dinging it up.

    And I'm bummed that no ti-honzo was released this morning. I was already scrounging up all my pennies.

  17. #1692
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    I assume it's just glued on there considering it's plastic, granted I've never had it off.

  18. #1693
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    Here's an update.

    As you see it - I could not be happier. The biggest change was moving to a Rockshox Pike. The quality of damping on the Pike is outstanding. It's supple on the small stuff, stays high in the travel and take hard whomps with ease. You've read all about it so I'll stop myself there. If you're reading this and just got a Pike and are wondering where to start - I am running the suggested air pressure, middle of the road rebound, compression either four or three clicks in from full open. I set that up when I got the fork and have touched nothing. My old Revelation Dual Air goes up on eBay soon.

    Equally important was being able to start with an uncut steerer. The bike now fits perfectly as I'm able to get my hands exactly where I want them. You'll see people my height (6'5") with more seat post extension, but I can't say I need it. So- fit is A+ and the Pike is magic. These two things combined have made me a better rider. And I have to say, dropping the seat and getting low in the fast stuff is safer and more fun!

    Hans Dampf/Nobby Nic combo has been flawless. When they both wear out I'll replace with they redesigned Nobby Nic to save a little weight- but am very happy at the moment. I'm comfortable with the wear/grip tradeoff.

    Might upgrade to 11 speed for 2015, which will involve a new rear hub and Sram X1 stuff (though Shimano's solution intrigues me.) I'd drop my front ring down to a 28 as well. Good for when I go out west and my sea level city slicker ass gets handed to me by the altitude.

    The compliments I get on this bike are the best ego stroke one could ask for. People either think I'm really good, really crazy or really cool. I'll take all three, thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1529.jpg  


  19. #1694
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    Quote Originally Posted by Equality 7-2521 View Post
    So, I'm almost certainly going through with the refinish job. I found a reputable powder coating shop locally and I'm trying to get the details (color, sheen) finalized. Have any of you successfully removed/reattached the (2012-2014) head tube badge? Anyone know how it's attached? I really want to get that thing off and on without dinging it up.

    And I'm bummed that no ti-honzo was released this morning. I was already scrounging up all my pennies.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    I assume it's just glued on there considering it's plastic, granted I've never had it off.
    What color are you going with and how much have you been quoted? I was toying with the idea of spraying mine highlighter yellow last season but in the end I would have to have it shipped both ways to a shop I trust and just wasn't worth it in the end, especially since I have the nice matte blue to begin with.

    The headtube badge is definitely not plastic. It's metal. As for it being attached, it's stuck on there with double-sided tape, all around the edge and inside the "K" part as well. It should come off rather easily. As for reattaching it, I'd suggest something like small roll of 3M VHB tape (super sticky double sided tape) or even a square of the material, attach it to the headtube badge and simply cut out around with an X-Acto knife and reapply firmly.

    Or you might get lucky and have Kona mail you a spare badge free of charge with the tape pre-applied if you email them. You never know.

  20. #1695
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    What color are you going with and how much have you been quoted? I was toying with the idea of spraying mine highlighter yellow last season but in the end I would have to have it shipped both ways to a shop I trust and just wasn't worth it in the end, especially since I have the nice matte blue to begin with.
    Between $80-$100 for prep and coating, depending on the exact finish. Some of the lower gloss or textured colors are a bit more. Luckily I live within 10 minutes of where a large percentage of the NASCAR shops are located, so there are a handful of shops which paint frames, and the price stays reasonable.

    Thanks for the info on the badge.

  21. #1696
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjulier View Post
    Equally important was being able to start with an uncut steerer. The bike now fits perfectly as I'm able to get my hands exactly where I want them. You'll see people my height (6'5") with more seat post extension, but I can't say I need it. So- fit is A+ and the Pike is magic. These two things combined have made me a better rider. And I have to say, dropping the seat and getting low in the fast stuff is safer and more fun!
    I'll have to agree with this statement 100%. Running more spacers this season is the best thing I've done for fit of this bike yet. I'm 6'4" and on the 20" Long frame. When I built it up in 2012 I ran a short CC40 upper cup and maybe 15mm worth of spacers, next season I slammed the stem to the headset cup and thought I was cool and always came back with an aching back after longer rides. Fast forward to this season and having a new CSU for my creaking Fox 34, I was left with an uncut steerer tube like yourself and started playing around. I'm now using a tall CC40 cup, which already is 7mm taller than before, and 30mm worth of spacers between that and my 40mm Chromag Ranger stem (also new for this season, previously only ran a Thomson X4 50mm). The fit is spot on!!! No more aching back and overall it just feels better in every position and I'm riding more aggressively as well. As for the bars, they never changed, 25mm rise Chromag OSX 780mm

  22. #1697
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    What's the price of the 2015 kona honzo in the USA?

  23. #1698
    SP Singletrack rocks
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    I would love a carbon honzo for an XC race bike as weird as that sounds. The geo is not making it any slower than my race bike, in fact most places I prefer it. The 27lb weight on albeit heavy build could easily be lighten 22ish with carbon wheels and carbon wheels.

  24. #1699
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I'll have to agree with this statement 100%. Running more spacers this season is the best thing I've done for fit of this bike yet. I'm 6'4" and on the 20" Long frame. When I built it up in 2012 I ran a short CC40 upper cup and maybe 15mm worth of spacers, next season I slammed the stem to the headset cup and thought I was cool and always came back with an aching back after longer rides. Fast forward to this season and having a new CSU for my creaking Fox 34, I was left with an uncut steerer tube like yourself and started playing around. I'm now using a tall CC40 cup, which already is 7mm taller than before, and 30mm worth of spacers between that and my 40mm Chromag Ranger stem (also new for this season, previously only ran a Thomson X4 50mm). The fit is spot on!!! No more aching back and overall it just feels better in every position and I'm riding more aggressively as well. As for the bars, they never changed, 25mm rise Chromag OSX 780mm
    Same here, I've been gradually increasing my spacers, relieved me of most of the back pain I had but still have some from time to time. Gonna try and raise it a bit more. Also rocking the Chromag OSX. 6'5" tall.

  25. #1700
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    I somewhat get the posts on a lighter bike but I also think a percentage of the Honzo spirit is the didn't cost a lot and takes a beating spirit. Mine was new in May and is already scratched from treating it as a mountain bike.

    Answering the other question, it looks like 2015 model US list is up $100 to $2100 and there are some improved parts along with it.

    In spirit of the "build thread" and damage from going for it.... I tore one of the Ardents in a rock garden and am trying the Bontrager tires I've seen get good reviews. The Trek Store summer sale got me 3 for the price of German tires I like. I'm running the XR4 in front and have tried XR3 in 2.2 and 2.3 inch. They are not as big as some tires I like but they're fast and have something there when you're leaned over compared to some more rounded tires. They're significantly better than the OEM Ardents when it comes to throwing mud.

    The speedy feel and superior to Ardents in goo are tempting me to shuffle them around again with 2.3 XR4 (aka 29-4) staying in front and 2.2 inch XR3 back on in back. That would probably please my wife with whom I share the Honzo.

    The pic is 2.3 inch XR3 in back with 2.3 inch XR4 front, and the evolution of bar width. My co-trail steward wants one of both of those trees gone now that he's gone modern bike. I want to be better about remembering to wheelie and a bar flick.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-hfej00o.jpg

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