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  1. #2501
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    Would you use the T9 on areas that have already been affected by rust? Or is there something to apply to those areas? My 2015 frame as some rust forming on the sliding dropouts where there is no paint. Also the bolts that hold the dropouts in place are rusting a bit

  2. #2502
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    On the inside I would. As for the outside, I'm not sure what to do either. I think Kona should've painted these frames instead of whatever it is they did. My plan is to rub the outside of my frame down with WD-40 from time to time and hope it doesn't get too out of control. Anybody else got a better idea?

  3. #2503
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    Buy an aluminum frame?

  4. #2504
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    I have a set of golf irons with a raw finish. Basically, they just rust all the time and it's pretty kewl except for the smell. Oxidizing steel gives off a funny smell.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-adamsmb2-3.jpg
    Last edited by golfsoup; 09-16-2015 at 06:44 PM.

  5. #2505
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    Chromoly is supposed to rust much slower than traditional steel... Is the desire to contain the rust more ascetic? How long would it take for the frame to actually be compromised due to rust?

  6. #2506
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    I read that chromolly will rust but it should only be a surface rust. I also read that steel wool will take care of it. I'm sticking with an occasional WD-40 rub down.

    Chromolly is actually resistant to rust and scaling, strong, and light...

    Read about it here...
    https://metalworksfab.wordpress.com/tag/chromolly/

    My first BMX bike was a Mongoose and I recall it having a 1/2 chromolly frame. Although, it was painted.

  7. #2507
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    How long would it take for the frame to actually be compromised due to rust?
    A long ass time, honestly. But rust sucks here at least. I got hasty with my build and sprayed right before assembly, but if you think about it, the spray will settle exactly where the water will. Yeah, you may get some surface rust up on the top of the tubes from condensation, but that will never cause a structural issue in your lifetime. As far as external rust, just sand the rust off and cover it with some primer and paint as close to a matching color as possible. My aluminum Satori has tons of gashes and scrapes, it just adds character, and the Honzo will look the same soon

    On a side note, has anyone else ran a stealth dropper on the ST yet? If so, how did you route the hose? I feel like mine could be better but yet can't think of how.

  8. #2508
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    Exactly, I actually think a little rust will be kewl as long as it doesn't bleed on my expensive parts. I also have an aluminum frame 29er which is more of a XC bike and it is pretty stiff (I think). Also, lots of scrapes and dings in the paint. Hey, no paint to worry about with this one!

  9. #2509
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    Quote Originally Posted by golfsoup View Post
    Plug the hole at the bottom of the seat tube inside the BB with a rag or something, spray a bunch of T9 in the top of the seat tube, plug the top, roll the T9 fluid around by manipulating the frame to get it in the tubes. Make sense? Also do inside headset. Allow T9 to dry exactly 12 hours and five minutes. Lastly, put some grease on your BB threads and at the top of the seat tube to help seal water out.

    This is important because the inside of your steel frame isn't protected and water can get in there. It won't dry nearly as fast on the inside and can do some real damage.

    Attachment 1015933
    This will add in the region of 2lb to the weight of the bike.

  10. #2510
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    Quote Originally Posted by superstar1 View Post
    This will add in the region of 2lb to the weight of the bike.
    How much does rust weigh?

  11. #2511
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    Quote Originally Posted by golfsoup View Post
    How much does rust weigh?
    Troll so hard

  12. #2512
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    Of course it was a ridiculous post, but so is the assumption that a steel frame is going to rust before your eyes. I'm 55 years old and owned numerous steel frames in my time and none of them has rusted.

    Where do you lot park your bikes? In the Swimming pool?

  13. #2513
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    Less rust debate... More honzo-ing

    All the parts finally trickled in and ibwas able to finish the build tonight.

    '16 HONZO medium
    Pike 140 51 offset
    Raceface turbine cinch crankset
    Wtb scrapers/trailblazer wheelset

    One thing I noticed....this BB is loooowwww...a lot lower than i',,,m used to and this is whilst running 170mm cranks.



    Last edited by ledude; 09-20-2015 at 12:59 PM.

  14. #2514
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    I'll just put these here.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700721.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700719.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700722.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700723.jpg

    2016 Kona Honzo ST large
    1x10 Saint Drivetrain
    SLX Cranks / 36t Wolftooth NW
    MRP Guide
    Pike 140mm / 46mm offset
    Nextie 35mm carbon rims laced to Hadley DH hubs
    Thomson fixed post
    XT brakes 203/180 rotors
    Onza Ibex 2.4s front and rear
    Raceface 35mm SIXC bars (775mm) and atlas stem (35mm).
    XT trail pedals
    WTB Volt steel rails
    Santa Cruz Palmdale grips in obvious orange

    29 lbs., 6oz.

  15. #2515
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    Looks awesome. The raw steel is great, and suits the bike. Those tires look burly - any good? Don't know anyone who's run them.

  16. #2516
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    Looks awesome. The raw steel is great, and suits the bike. Those tires look burly - any good? Don't know anyone who's run them.
    They're very high quality and cost about $60 each, retail $90. In socal we have a lot of loose over hard and these tires are excellent for that. They're similar to Highroller IIs but without the "Highroll"ing resistance. Reviews say they don't excel in the wet.

  17. #2517
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    Nice build once again. Can you compare to the 2012 and 2013 frameset? Get rid of the EPO?

  18. #2518
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Nice build once again. Can you compare to the 2012 and 2013 frameset? Get rid of the EPO?
    I haven't posted the EPO yet but it will be for sale.

    It's hard to be certain if the new seat stays make it a tiiiiny bit more compliant or if it's the 30mm internal rims and fat tires the wider chainstay yoke allows. They feel very similar in terms of compliance, but I'm on a large now with 25mm~ longer reach and a 35mm vs 50mm stem. Also, longer tubes will be more compliant. Wheelbase is also about an inch longer. And I'm running a plush Pike. Just hard to pinpoint and not a night and day difference. If I still had an old version, I'd upgrade for the color, tire clearance, and new sizing/lines or get a Pike. The 2016 Honzo just looks *****in' and rides great.

    Honestly, the EPO is better in every aspect except tire clearance and looks in my opinion. The geo numbers are identical but the EPO is .25 degrees slacker which bumps the wheelbase out a bit. Oh, and 7.5 lbs. vs 3.25 lbs in frame weight is kind of a big deal.

    I'm going to pick up a Riot with the proceeds from the EPO and my stable will be complete...for now.

  19. #2519
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    Got my custom Honzo all built up! Had to snap some shots before gettin dirty!

    Build:
    2015 frame size small
    Pike 140mm (46mm offset)
    WTB i25 wheels, DT Swiss 350 front hub, Hope Evo2 rear hub
    Maxis Minion DHF 2.5 front / 2.35 rear
    Shimano Zee brakes
    Shimano Zee crankset
    Shimano XT 11 speed RD and 11-42 cassette
    Shimano XTR shifter
    Raceface 32t ring
    Azonic Beretta 40mm stem
    Raceface Respond riser bars
    Deity compound pedals

    This thing needs a dropper, planning on going with the 9point8 Fall Line, deciding whether to go 5" or 6" drop


    Attachment 1008854Attachment 1008849Attachment 1008852Attachment 1008851Attachment 1008853
    So the small Honzo's do not have the seat/top tube brace? Super clean!

  20. #2520
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    So the small Honzo's do not have the seat/top tube brace? Super clean!
    Agreed! It was a pleasant surprise

  21. #2521
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I haven't posted the EPO yet but it will be for sale.

    It's hard to be certain if the new seat stays make it a tiiiiny bit more compliant or if it's the 30mm internal rims and fat tires the wider chainstay yoke allows. They feel very similar in terms of compliance, but I'm on a large now with 25mm~ longer reach and a 35mm vs 50mm stem. Also, longer tubes will be more compliant. Wheelbase is also about an inch longer. And I'm running a plush Pike. Just hard to pinpoint and not a night and day difference. If I still had an old version, I'd upgrade for the color, tire clearance, and new sizing/lines or get a Pike. The 2016 Honzo just looks *****in' and rides great.

    Honestly, the EPO is better in every aspect except tire clearance and looks in my opinion. The geo numbers are identical but the EPO is .25 degrees slacker which bumps the wheelbase out a bit. Oh, and 7.5 lbs. vs 3.25 lbs in frame weight is kind of a big deal.

    I'm going to pick up a Riot with the proceeds from the EPO and my stable will be complete...for now.
    So carbon's not all it's cracked out to be?

    I would love to get the 2016 frameset just for the added tire clearance as I can't run a 2.4 Ardent slammed or it rubs badly. But I think it's finally time for a FS build this winter.
    konahonzo

  22. #2522
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    Looking to get some feedback prior to pulling the trigger on a '16. I'm a little worried about the slightly longer reach on the '16. I'm 5'6, long legs and short torso. Even with a 35mm stem, the '16 will be about 18 mm longer in reach then what I'm riding now. (Stumpy with 45mm stem). That said, I did notice the standover and stack height on Kona bikes are lower than others. At the end of the day, I'm worried about the bike feeling too big or difficult to handle. Can anyone chime in here to relieve my concerns?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  23. #2523
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Looking to get some feedback prior to pulling the trigger on a '16. I'm a little worried about the slightly longer reach on the '16. I'm 5'6, long legs and short torso. Even with a 35mm stem, the '16 will be about 18 mm longer in reach then what I'm riding now. (Stumpy with 45mm stem). That said, I did notice the standover and stack height on Kona bikes are lower than others. At the end of the day, I'm worried about the bike feeling too big or difficult to handle. Can anyone chime in here to relieve my concerns?


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    If you're concerned, go with a 140mm fork and that will reduce the reach. I am 5'7 and ride a 2015 small frame with a 40mm stem... a longer reach wouldn't be bad at all. The 2015 has solid cockpit room, but a little more wouldn't spread me out too much. The effective top tube is only a quarter inch longer, so the length while in the saddle won't be much longer at all. I think you will be stoked on the size small

  24. #2524
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    If you're concerned, go with a 140mm fork and that will reduce the reach. I am 5'7 and ride a 2015 small frame with a 40mm stem... a longer reach wouldn't be bad at all. The 2015 has solid cockpit room, but a little more wouldn't spread me out too much. The effective top tube is only a quarter inch longer, so the length while in the saddle won't be much longer at all. I think you will be stoked on the size small
    Can you do me a favor and measure the maximum seatpost insertion on your small frame? My dropper requires ~ 200mm insertion depth to get by saddle height where it needs to be.

    Thanks!!!!


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  25. #2525
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Can you do me a favor and measure the maximum seatpost insertion on your small frame? My dropper requires ~ 200mm insertion depth to get by saddle height where it needs to be.

    Thanks!!!!


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    It's about 183mm on my size small - are you accounting for the fact that it's a 15" seat tube vs whatever seat tube length your dropper is coming from? Definitely is a bit of a bummer on the insertion depth, would have loved to run a 150mm dropper but had to go with 125 due to the insertion. The short chainstay are one of the big reasons why this bike is so nimble, so it's a worthwhile sacrifice.

  26. #2526
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    It's about 183mm on my size small - are you accounting for the fact that it's a 15" seat tube vs whatever seat tube length your dropper is coming from? Definitely is a bit of a bummer on the insertion depth, would have loved to run a 150mm dropper but had to go with 125 due to the insertion. The short chainstay are one of the big reasons why this bike is so nimble, so it's a worthwhile sacrifice.
    You are correct. I'll have to check around for some other posts. Thanks again for checking.


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  27. #2527
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    What size tires are you able to fit on the back of the aluminum frame? And is the front hub boosted?

  28. #2528
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    You are correct. I'll have to check around for some other posts. Thanks again for checking.


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    I can't recommend the 9point8 fall line enough. I went with the 125/375mm on my honzo, the max insert on it is 190mm so if you are at the bike park or pump track you can slam it all the way down to the frame basically. I've had 2 Levs and have demoed the reverb and the Thompson... Fall line is king

  29. #2529
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    Hey need some advice. my LBS quoted me $30 to press the headset for my 2016 Honzo ST. I was wondering if there is any possibility of me screwing up if I press them myself. In other words, can I damage the frame in any way. There is some DIY / Homemade press tool that seems simple to make. Note, I've never done this before.
    Last edited by NEET; 09-23-2015 at 10:59 AM.
    Bike~less

  30. #2530
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    Yes, it is possible to damage the frame if you don't get the cups in straight. IF they are out of alignment enough, you will deform the head tube. But I have done it several times with my home-made press.

    I don't do it on expensive frames, like my Ti Rove - not worth the risk. But on my fixed gear commuter, sure.

    And did you buy the frame at the LBS?
    Living the dream at TDA Global Cycling – epic bike tours from 500 to 15,000 km.

    TDA Global Cycling

  31. #2531
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    Hey need some advice. my LBS quoted my $30 to press the headset for my 2016 Honzo ST. I was wondering if there is any possibility of me screwing up if I press them myself. In other words, can damage the frame in any way. There is some DIY / Homemade press tool that seems simple to make. Note, I've never done this before.
    $30 for that?! Maybe find a new lbs... Anyways, if that's your only option, i say just pay it, they may end up needing to shave off some of the metal before pressing - mine didn't require it but it is common to need to do that while pressing a headset. It will most likely take them 5 minutes though, which is why I say that $30 is absurd

  32. #2532
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    If you bought the frame from them, they really should do this for free! It'll probably take them 5 minutes. Now, if you bought the frame online then take it in, I can understand the charge.

    Putting them in DIY, even with a homemade press, is easy enough. I wouldn't worry about things, especially in a burly steel frame such as the Kona. I say go for it, just go slowly, and don't try to slam it in. I know people who have gone the DIY route on carbon road frames with no problems.

  33. #2533
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    Super easy job really. Use some copper anti seize or grease and a wide jaw bench vice to keep everything nice and parallel. Takes all of 5min.

  34. #2534
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    $30 for that?! Maybe find a new lbs... Anyways, if that's your only option, i say just pay it, they may end up needing to shave off some of the metal before pressing - mine didn't require it but it is common to need to do that while pressing a headset. It will most likely take them 5 minutes though, which is why I say that $30 is absurd
    dude you have to pay for experince and the tool and the building as stuff.

    30 dollars is cheaper than a messed up frame.

    With that said I own my own Headset press.

  35. #2535
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    Quote Originally Posted by BushwackerinPA View Post
    dude you have to pay for experince and the tool and the building as stuff.

    30 dollars is cheaper than a messed up frame.

    With that said I own my own Headset press.
    Did you read my post? "Anyways, if that's your only option, i say just pay it..." I am all about supporting the LBS, but it's not that expensive of a tool for a shop, and it will literally take them 5 minutes, so I don't know where they get off charging that. Maybe they are estimating based on potentially needing to mill some metal out of the headtube to get the headset cups in properly - since like I said, this is a common step - but if they get away without doing that (which they likely will), they don't need to charge that. It's not the most skill related task, it comes down to having the tool.

  36. #2536
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    took the new honzo out today on its first ride…love it…it was a really rocky trail and I was concerned about sidewall tears (wtb trailblazers/wtb scrapers) but alas-those fears were unfounded. I probably could have dropped a few psi on the tires but i figured I wanted to make sure I could make it down in one piece.

    the 27.5+ tires was like an extra inch of suspension, which is really nice on a hard tail.

  37. #2537
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    took the new honzo out today on its first ride…love it…it was a really rocky trail and I was concerned about sidewall tears (wtb trailblazers/wtb scrapers) but alas-those fears were unfounded. I probably could have dropped a few psi on the tires but i figured I wanted to make sure I could make it down in one piece.

    the 27.5+ tires was like an extra inch of suspension, which is really nice on a hard tail.
    What non-plus tires are you comparing the Trailblazers to?

  38. #2538
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    Scored one of the last new 2015s. Medium. Only change for now is lock-on Oury grips.

  39. #2539
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    What non-plus tires are you comparing the Trailblazers to?
    None really, as this was my first ride on my honzo (27.5+ tires or not). But I have ridden this trail previously with traditional 27.5 tires on my other steel hardtail and I was bouncing around like a pinball.

  40. #2540
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    But we're you a pinball wizard?

  41. #2541
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    None really, as this was my first ride on my honzo (27.5+ tires or not). But I have ridden this trail previously with traditional 27.5 tires on my other steel hardtail and I was bouncing around like a pinball.
    OK cool. What was the tires and other infos on you nonHonzo HT?

    I wonder if b+ is worth trying one these days as I already run 2.5s.

  42. #2542
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    OK cool. What was the tires and other infos on you nonHonzo HT?

    I wonder if b+ is worth trying one these days as I already run 2.5s.
    I ran a beefy Hans Dampf 2.35 (bigger than other 2.5s) front on a 19mm Mavic Crossmax. Worked just fine. I couldn't run crazy low PSI without the tire rolling around on the rim, but 22-24 PSI was no problem. With the 29mm width Traverse rims I'm running 19psi with the same tires and no rolling in the corners at all.

    Since I've had no issues with a 3.0 on a 25mm Stands Flow EX on my rigid ss, I have no doubts a 2.8 tire would work great on a set of 27.5 Traverse wheels. The idea that you need a 45mm rim to run 27.5+ tires is marketing gobbledy ****.

    I'm not pushing Roval wheels, but $600 for a wheelset without the weight penalty of a fat bike rim is nice.

  43. #2543
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    OK cool. What was the tires and other infos on you nonHonzo HT?

    I wonder if b+ is worth trying one these days as I already run 2.5s.
    Stans flow EX 27.5 + Kenda nevegal 2.35 rear/maxxis high roller 2.35.

    I.a.n. - I agree running 2.8s on a 25mm or wider rim would be fine and that 45mm rims aren't necessary, but the 45mm rims do indeed add lot more traction then your traditional 25mm+ ID rim width. There is a noticeable difference, evn to a deadhead like me.

    Personally, I like the extra cusion that a B+ wheel/tire lends to a hardtail especially when riding rocky stuff (which is my typical trail topography).

  44. #2544
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Since I've had no issues with a 3.0 on a 25mm Stands Flow EX on my rigid ss, I have no doubts a 2.8 tire would work great on a set of 27.5 Traverse wheels. The idea that you need a 45mm rim to run 27.5+ tires is marketing gobbledy ****.

    I'm not pushing Roval wheels, but $600 for a wheelset without the weight penalty of a fat bike rim is nice.
    Scott/Syncros did their own testing and found that 38-40mm (internal) with 2.75" tires was about optimal for a B+ trail bike.

    Me, personally, intend to build some WTB Asym i35's with 2.8"ish tires
    I like 'em low, long, slack and playful

  45. #2545
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    Stans flow EX 27.5 + Kenda nevegal 2.35 rear/maxxis high roller 2.35.

    I.a.n. - I agree running 2.8s on a 25mm or wider rim would be fine and that 45mm rims aren't necessary, but the 45mm rims do indeed add lot more traction then your traditional 25mm+ ID rim width. There is a noticeable difference, evn to a deadhead like me.

    Personally, I like the extra cusion that a B+ wheel/tire lends to a hardtail especially when riding rocky stuff (which is my typical trail topography).
    Yeah, I don.t doubt that a 45mm rim is better suited for the fit of a larger tire, but I've heard people claim it's required to run a fat rim with fat tires, which I've found isn't the case. Once 45mm wheels are in the 1800g range, I'll definitely consider it.

  46. #2546
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Yeah, I don.t doubt that a 45mm rim is better suited for the fit of a larger tire, but I've heard people claim it's required to run a fat rim with fat tires, which I've found isn't the case. Once 45mm wheels are in the 1800g range, I'll definitely consider it.
    On that note, I decided after yesterdays' ride that I would try and swap over some smaller diameter tires onto the scrapers to see what would come of the 'feel' of the bike....maybe swap over the highrollers to see what happens...again, that would lower the BB even more and i would def get some pedal smacks

  47. #2547
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    Thanks for all the info so far. I may need measurements later. I just wonder if the increase in volume is worth it over 2.5 DHFs. I get all the grip and sidewall strength I could ever want at probably the same weight with good volume.

  48. #2548
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Thanks for all the info so far. I may need measurements later. I just wonder if the increase in volume is worth it over 2.5 DHFs. I get all the grip and sidewall strength I could ever want at probably the same weight with good volume.
    Probably less weight... the scrapers are around 650 grams each for rims only, those tires can't be lighter than the Minion 2.5's either. I am sold on the 2.5's, gonna get a set of Easton ARC 30's this winter

  49. #2549
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    Tell you what, with the scrapers and trailblazers together it barely clears the inside of the stays. So much so that a zip tie that I had clipped on the driveside was rubbing the sidewalls.

    This happened with the drop outs slid back and slammed, it didn't matter. We're talking about 2,3mm maax clearance on each side once all is said and done.

  50. #2550
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    What kind of tire pressure are y'all running on your Honzos with the Ardents tubeless?

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