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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Cackalackey just quoted my pic. My LBS was nice enough to let me pull the frame from a stock build and order me some 135 dropouts. I'm told frames won't go out until October sometime.
    So, who's the first to PM you for the 142x12 dropouts.
    konahonzo

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheranian View Post
    Cackalackey did you order your frame online or have a hook up. I'm waiting for mine and am wondering if they are starting to produce them.

    I really like the white fork on it! Guess that makes it easier to buy a Fox Float 140 rather than trying to find a float in black.
    Or the best of both worlds, black crown, white lowers.

    konahonzo

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    A pop bottle and zap straps did the job!
    Haha! Fantastic idea for the chain guide! You just gave me an idea for my converted SS
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  4. #404
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    This type of chainguide is called c-guide (by Biconicon) or scs (by Syntace, mostly for litevilles) - if you don't want to make your own

  5. #405
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    Lovin' my Honzo with 140 up front now. Do yourself a favor and add the extra 20mm up front
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-11.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-3-1.jpg  

    Last edited by playdead; 09-25-2012 at 11:23 PM.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  6. #406
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    Reba or Revelation you got there?
    konahonzo

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Reba or Revelation you got there?
    Revelation. Having a tapered fork really makes a difference! I was always a bit skeptical until I tried one. I always thought, "how much of a difference can that make?" well folks, it does make that much more of a difference. It's super responsive and reliable in the heat of the moment in those sketchy techy spots of a trail.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  8. #408
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    I have a 2013 frame set, now I'm just waiting on my 2013 Float 34 RLC in white to show up from Fox and I'll take some pics. I'm getting the fork as a warranty replacement and was able to get an RLC damper instead of the CTD damper. We'll see how it is. The fork will be kind of unique because it will have the more linear 2013 spring rate but with a 2012 RLC damper.

    Oh, and it will be set at 120mm. With a cane creek headset, that makes the A-C measurement less than 3mm taller than the stock build with a FSA headset and RS Revelation.

    Rockshox & FSA headset: 541.72mm
    Fox 34 @ 120mm & Cane Creek headset: 544mm

    I'm getting the new frame set because I think the color will match my white fork better, and I wanted the increased stand over clearance.

    If you know anyone looking for an 18" '12 Honzo, let me know.

  9. #409
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    Would love to see some real world numbers of how much increased SO you really are getting.

    And that's definitely an interesting approach to have matching stuff lol, why not buy a new frame.

    BTW, is your fork shipping at 120mm from Fox? I know the new 2013 Floats aren't droppable in travel via a simple spacer, it's a little more complicated than that, AFAIK requiring a new air spring cartridge with the proper travel (120, 130, 140mm).
    konahonzo

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Would love to see some real world numbers of how much increased SO you really are getting.

    And that's definitely an interesting approach to have matching stuff lol, why not buy a new frame.

    BTW, is your fork shipping at 120mm from Fox? I know the new 2013 Floats aren't droppable in travel via a simple spacer, it's a little more complicated than that, AFAIK requiring a new air spring cartridge with the proper travel (120, 130, 140mm).
    Yeah, they had to use a 2012 spring cartridge. Does that mean I won't have the more linear spring rate?? Oh well.

  11. #411
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    eurospek, any update on your revelation vs fox?
    2016 Honzo Ti
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  12. #412
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    New question here. CC geared hanger

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSheep01 View Post
    An email response from Kona Tech indicated that they dropouts would not be available online and suggested that I contact a local dealer. I also talked to someone on the phone at the Kona Store and he confirmed that they would not show up on the USA store for awhile, however I could place an order over the phone with them.

    No hint at price was given. The droupouts shown on the international store are sold individually, not in pairs (drive and non-drive sides). So I assume an MAXLE will not be included, espicially since it costs around $50 by itself.
    I just purchased a Kona Dr. Fine, and I'm searching for the geared version of the CC sliding dropout. Kona informed me that the Honzo uses the same dropout. The Honzo looks really nice by the way. If I choose to go down the 29'er path, it's a bike I will consider.

    Do any of you know of a online shop that stock these particular geared hangers? Kona asked me to go a Kona dealer, but we don't really have a full fledged Kona shop in Copenhagen (Denmark). Chainreaction stock the SS version. But that's about the only intershop that come close.

    Cheers,

    Lui

  13. #413
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    Here's some feedback on the 28T Bling Ring.
    I've had a few solidly big rides with the ring now. The latest ride had 1035m/3400ft of climbing on logging road to a big tech descent.

    Most of the riding in Whistler is straight up to almost straight down. I don't notice the loss of the harder gears because I never used them when out on the trail. I only run out of gears when commuting to the trailhead on the road and paved multi-use trails. But, really, it's not like I'm being timed when I ride to the trails so I don't find it a negative that I can't pedal the bike any faster!

    From the 32T to the 28T I've gained two and a half more easy gears. The way it works out is between the 3rd and 4th cog on the cassette it's half way in gearing ratios from the easiest gear I had with the 32T chain ring. (Did that make any sense!)

    On the long sustained big climbs I don't feel that I'm working my legs as hard I did previously. I can still stay seated and power through the climbs with slightly less effort than before. At the top my legs don't feel completely done as they have in the past.

    I'm also finding that on the bigger rides that having access to more easier gearing is great near the end of the ride when my energy is low. Instead of struggling to put the power down on up-and-over features I can motor through them in the easiest gear that's available to me now.

    You definitely need to get a proper chain guide. My DIY guide is doing the job admirably. However, in the choppy descending the chain jumps off the top of the ring if I don't have the chain on the biggest cog in the back to keep tension. Sometimes that catches me out when I need to put in a power stroke because I'm sitting in the easiest gear. Although, it has forced me to get off the brakes as to carry more speed. Which makes for not having to use power strokes!

    A note about the AKA cranks: they are noticeably stiffer that the stock Gravity Step-Up cranks! I knew the Step-Up cranks had flex but I didn't realize how flexy they were until I installed the AKA cranks!

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    eurospek, any update on your revelation vs fox?
    Short review: I sold the Revelation, made a few bucks after shipping.

    The biggest factor I liked about the Revelation was its weight. Other than that, it was definitely different than the Fox 34 @ 140mm. Right off the the bat, my cockpit was much lower without playing with spacers underneath the Thomson 50mm stem. I couldn't really find a comfortable bar height to what I was accustomed to with the Fox 34 set up (with only a 2.5mm spacer underneath the stem, 785mm 25mm Chromag OSX bars). It just felt like the bike was a size smaller, it was a weird ride around the neighborhood. The front end was definitely easier to lift off the ground though. Didn't even bother installing the Raceface Atlas FR bars since their rise was even shorter than the Chromags. I thought I would enjoy a lower rise bar and attack position but I was wrong.

    In terms of stiffness, you could easily tell the Fox 34 crown and stanchions worked as advertised because when I put the front wheel between my legs and twisted the bars with the Revelation installed, you could feel more movement and twisting (now not only in the bars) than with the Fox 34 (but it was sure quiet without any creaking ). The quick ride around my neighborhood was more than enough to know that I won't like it any better on the trail and didn't even bother getting it dirty so I can sell it. From a braking standpoint, I was expecting miracles with the 20mm Maxle after people's comparisons to the Fox 15QR, to me it was a wash. I even found the 15QR easier and quicker to open and close.

    But the Revelation was super plush for a fork with zero riding hours in it. My Fox took a few riding hours to open up. So without the magical Kashima coating, I did like the way it cycled through its travel from the get go.

    And from a visual standpoint, the Honzo with the Revelation didn't look as stout and tough as before. Definitely looks better with bigger stanchions.

    Another interesting point was playing around with the Dual Air setup. The reason why I sold my first Revelation RLT was finding out Rockshox dropped it in 2013 in favor of Solo Air. Then I bought the Talas 34. I like simplicity when it comes to fork tuning. I'll set it up once during the season in terms of psi, rebound and compression and never really touch it again. I made sure to follow the proper way of setting up the Dual Air system, but I could never get more than 135mm of stanchion showing. And there were no spacers installed. The Fox 34 has well over 140mm of stanchion showing. I thought that was weird for the Revelation since it was suppose to be 140mm of travel.

    All in all, I would have no problem recommending the Revelation to lightweight riders, like my brother who's only 5'10" and 150 lbs, but for my weight of 230 lbs and 6'4" stature, I would pony up the $$$ again for a Fox 34 fork now after finding out the grass isn't exactly greener on the other side.

    If SRAM can make a mini Lyrik 29er fork with 140mm of travel, Solo Air, and a 20mm Maxle, 34/35 stanchions then I would love to try that. But for a big hit 29er fork 120+mm travel, I think Fox has the market covered at the moment. It will be interesting to see how it stacks up against the new X-Fusion Trace 140 fork.
    konahonzo

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post

    All in all, I would have no problem recommending the Revelation to lightweight riders, like my brother who's only 5'10" and 150 lbs, but for my weight of 230 lbs and 6'4" stature, I would pony up the $$$ again for a Fox 34 fork now after finding out the grass isn't exactly greener on the other side.
    6'4" at 230. Yeah, larger stanchions is probably a good idea.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    I'm 5'6" or so. I have an 18" Unit as well. The 16" didn't feel right to me. The ETT was shorter so I had to run a longer stem.

    The only issue I have with the 18" is with the Reverb. Specifically, my legs are too short and the 18" seattube is too long to allow full extension even with the seatpost slammed to the collar. It's a compromise I can live with.
    How's the TT clearance of the 18" for you?

    I'm 5'7" and the effective TT on the 16" would seem spot on for me (haven't tried; just going by numbers). But the TT on the 16" would be still be too high.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Would love to see some real world numbers of how much increased SO you really are getting.

    And that's definitely an interesting approach to have matching stuff lol, why not buy a new frame.

    BTW, is your fork shipping at 120mm from Fox? I know the new 2013 Floats aren't droppable in travel via a simple spacer, it's a little more complicated than that, AFAIK requiring a new air spring cartridge with the proper travel (120, 130, 140mm).
    After extensive measuring and weighing here's what I found:


    weight: '12 6lbs. 11 oz vs. '13 7lbs. (both weighed w/ Cane Creek headset, seat clamp and dropouts)

    stand over: Absolutely no differences between frames.

    The frames are unchanged except for the box gusset on '13 version. Once I build it up and ride it I'll post pics and riding impressions. I suspect the new frame is stiffer, but I'll let you know if I really feel a difference. It will be difficult to tell though because I'm also switching over to the Fox 34 fork. I'll post my findings Friday evening.

  18. #418
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    '12 vs. '13 Comparison Pics

    So, if you get a 2013 Honzo it will have the same geometry as a 2012, but it will be about 5 ounces heavier because of the seat tube/ top tube gusset, and it may be stiffer. I wonder why they said it had increased stand over? Maybe the fork has a lower A-C measurement, or they used a different headset.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0917.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0921.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0920.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0922.jpg
    Last edited by carabao; 09-27-2012 at 03:17 PM.

  19. #419
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    Damn, I want a 2013 frameset. Your pics look so nice against the 2012 blue.

    Did your frameset come with the 142x12 dropout or standard QR? Care to snap a pic of the former, curious to see how they look as sliders.

    As for the spec changes, both years have the same FSA headset, and the Revelation A-2-C hasn't changed either. Weird. Just a marketing technique to get us on a new frame.
    konahonzo

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Damn, I want a 2013 frameset. Your pics look so nice against the 2012 blue.

    Did your frameset come with the 142x12 dropout or standard QR? Care to snap a pic of the former, curious to see how they look as sliders.

    As for the spec changes, both years have the same FSA headset, and the Revelation A-2-C hasn't changed either. Weird. Just a marketing technique to get us on a new frame.
    I'll post pics of the dropouts. Hopefully, the gusset makes a noticeable difference in stiffness, not that the frame was noodlely in the first place, but I'd like to think the extra weight was doing something. Pics on the way.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0924.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0927.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0923.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0925.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0926.jpg
    Last edited by carabao; 09-27-2012 at 03:15 PM.

  21. #421
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    Thanks, definitely let us know what Kona tells you. As for the gusset on the top tube/seat tube, I don't think it will do much in terms of stiffness other than benefiting people with a ton of seat post showing.
    konahonzo

  22. #422
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    The final version of my Honzo :
    Frame 18”
    RockShox Revelation RTC3 140mm
    Kona DH stem 50mm
    XLC flat bar 760mm
    Esi Grips
    Token headset
    Reverb 125mm seatpost
    Formula R1 carbon brakes with 160mm disks
    WTB seat
    Sram XX cassette and chain
    Sram X9 mech
    THM BB
    S-works crank
    27 T Ti chainrings and home made carbon bash
    Notube Arch EX / Sapim CXRay / Aivee hubs (French)
    Maxxis Ardent 2.40 front and rear (850grs per tire ! )
    Time pedals
    12.2kgrs for ride all inclusive.


  23. #423
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    Nice job!

  24. #424
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0933.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0934.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0929.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0935.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0932.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0938.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0928.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0930.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0937.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0931.jpg

    '13 Honzo 18"
    Fox 34 120 RLC Float
    SLX cranks
    Cane Creek headset
    32 x 11-34 (9 speed)
    N-gear Jumpstop
    Straitline AMP pedals
    Shimano Saint derailleur
    Fox DOSS 125mm drop post
    Specialized Henge saddle
    Thomson 50mm stem
    Raceface Atlas bars 785mm uncut
    Stans Notubes Flow EX wheelset
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4s front and rear
    Shimano XT brakes/rotors
    ODI Rogue lock-ons

    30 lbs. 10 ounces,with a dropper, 29 lbs. 10 ounces with Thomson seatpost.

    Bottom bracket is at 12 3/8". It feels nimbler with the new fork due to the increased offset.
    Full write up when I return from Idllwild.

    *I have a 2012 18" Honzo w/ 142x12 dropouts for sale (Kona won't have the 135x10 dropouts in stock until November).

    **I also have Fox DOSS 125mm drop for sale in perfect condition.

    PM me if you're interested in either.
    Last edited by carabao; 09-28-2012 at 03:55 PM.

  25. #425
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    That looks awesome!

    Although I'm lost at what Frankenstein fork you received lol, CTD sticker, 2012 RLC damper, and looks like the new 2013 top cap assembly on the air side (which means you got the 2013 Float cartridge)?

    Either way, the 2013 color with the white Float looks incredible. Tough call between blue/black and your combo.
    konahonzo

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    That looks awesome!

    Although I'm lost at what Frankenstein fork you received lol, CTD sticker, 2012 RLC damper, and looks like the new 2013 top cap assembly on the air side (which means you got the 2013 Float cartridge)?

    Either way, the 2013 color with the white Float looks incredible. Tough call between blue/black and your combo.
    Definitely a tough call. I have the fork set at 90psi and I'm able to make the fork bottom out by bobbing my full weight up and down. This leads me to believe I have the more linear spring/2013 float cartridge. It feels really plush. BTW, I'm 205lbs, so maybe the fork needs more air.

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Definitely a tough call. I have the fork set at 90psi and I'm able to make the fork bottom out by bobbing my full weight up and down. This leads me to believe I have the more linear spring/2013 float cartridge. It feels really plush. BTW, I'm 205lbs, so maybe the fork needs more air.
    You may be right then. Did you ask Fox specifically for 120mm setting right off the bat?

    Either way, your psi definitely sounds like the new 2013 Float cartridge, because I'm about 20 lbs heavier than yourself and I'm well below 90 psi, more like 70ish on my Float @140 and super plush. The 2013 recommended psi values are about 15% greater for each weight bracket than the 2012 values.

    But I'm still not so sure as I dug more into this now (remember reading a few threads but had to search for them) and looks like the 2013 Float cartridge can only be dropped 10mm in travel, that's it.

    Gone are the travel spacers where you could have slapped on 40mm worth to drop travel, now it's fancy shuttle bumper pictured here in this thread. Along with the procedure here, and if you download the .xls file, the spreadsheet with part numbers confirms it.

    And I still recommend you trying the Honzo at 140mm, it's a blast!
    konahonzo

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    You may be right then. Did you ask Fox specifically for 120mm setting right off the bat?

    Either way, your psi definitely sounds like the new 2013 Float cartridge, because I'm about 20 lbs heavier than yourself and I'm well below 90 psi, more like 70ish on my Float @140 and super plush. The 2013 recommended psi values are about 15% greater for each weight bracket than the 2012 values.

    But I'm still not so sure as I dug more into this now (remember reading a few threads but had to search for them) and looks like the 2013 Float cartridge can only be dropped 10mm in travel, that's it.

    Gone are the travel spacers where you could have slapped on 40mm worth to drop travel, now it's fancy shuttle bumper pictured here in this thread. Along with the procedure here, and if you download the .xls file, the spreadsheet with part
    numbers confirms it.

    And I still recommend you trying the Honzo at 140mm, it's a blast!
    Thanks for the resources. Next time I service the fork, I'll be sure to see how it was lowered. I did ask for it off the bat and I recall him saying they had to put in a different spring. I'm just glad I got a RLC because I really need that lockout.

  29. #429
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    Eurospeak, looking at my packing slip it lists the following items:

    Crash Replacement Fork

    2013, 34-k, FLOAT 29in F-S, 140, CTD-Adj, FIT, Wht, Gold Logo, 15QR, 1.5 T, Disc, 51mm Rake, DE

    Service Set: 2012 34 29in FLOAT 140 Air Shaft Assembly

    Service Set: 2012 34 F29 RLC 140 Cartridge Assy Complete

    Neg Spring Plate, 2012 34 FLOAT and VAN

    I can't figure it out, but I'm happy.

  30. #430
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    Hey fellow Honzo-ites! Long time lurker, first time poster, go easy!

    So, cut to the chase, i have a stock ish '12 honzo 20L (+reverb+renthal bar & stem) and i'd like to shed some weight. Last time i had it on some scales it was getting close to 34 lbs which is pretty obese for such a simple bike.
    Am i expecting too much to want a 30lb honzo? Or are the stock wheels/drivetrain/brakes really THAT heavy???

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomat0 View Post
    Hey fellow Honzo-ites! Long time lurker, first time poster, go easy!

    So, cut to the chase, i have a stock ish '12 honzo 20L (+reverb+renthal bar & stem) and i'd like to shed some weight. Last time i had it on some scales it was getting close to 34 lbs which is pretty obese for such a simple bike.
    Am i expecting too much to want a 30lb honzo? Or are the stock wheels/drivetrain/brakes really THAT heavy???
    I'm just under 31 lbs with my 20L frame. And that's with a .5 lb heavier fork than the Revelation stocker. The stock wheels and crankset are mighty heavy from people's reviews on here. I would ditch both. And go tubeless as well.
    konahonzo

  32. #432
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    Hey Euro

    Can you tell me if I was looking for a used fork how much steerer tube I would need on the 20l frame or does that just depend on how many spacers I want for my headset? Would I just be better to spend for a new fork? Thanks!

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheranian View Post
    Hey Euro

    Can you tell me if I was looking for a used fork how much steerer tube I would need on the 20l frame or does that just depend on how many spacers I want for my headset? Would I just be better to spend for a new fork? Thanks!
    My Float 34 steerer is 7.25" (185 mm) and that's with a CC40 headset, short upper cup, 2.5mm spacer, Thomson X4 50mm stem, and three 5mm spacers on top which is perfect.

    If buying Fox, I would buy new for the sake of having a warranty for the creaking stanchions/CSU, I know my fork will be going for warranty at the end of this season for this exact reason.
    konahonzo

  34. #434
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    BTW, this seems like a great deal though if you're wanting a black Float 34, much better than the $899 I paid lol.

    Fox 34 Factory 29er Float CTD Trail Adjust Tapered Steerer 15mm, BLACK! - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories
    konahonzo

  35. #435
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    Thanks... I guess that one is long enough? Same as yours? I wonder about the warranty

  36. #436
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    More Pics

    Atop a ridge in Idyllwild.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1258.jpg
    Then a gust of wind ruined it all.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1259.jpg

  37. #437
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    So now that you've had some hours on the new frame+fork, any difference from the old frameset? What about fork?
    konahonzo

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    So now that you've had some hours on the new frame+fork, any difference from the old frameset? What about fork?
    Well the fork tracks much better and is stiffer than the F29. I'm surprised by how plush it is and how much travel it uses. I'm running it at 105psi and I added 5ml more float fluid to the air chamber for a total of 10ml. This made the fork a bit more progressive at the end of its travel which I wanted because I was bottoming out at 110 psi just riding around in the front yard.

    The offset of the fork increased from 46mm to 51mm and this took some getting used to. The bike was much twitchier at first, but my brother who rides a steely said it felt great, just a tad slower than his. I felt like I was in front of the bike and pushing the front end, making it wash easily. What I discovered was I was trying to ride it like my old bike/fork where I had to be more aggressive and forward weighted in order to get it to maneuver/steer in tight single track. The new fork allows me to ride in a more neutral position, off of the back of the bike more, in not such an forward weighted position. It's just more responsive and precise in steering and does not require as much body english to steer it.

    The only differences between the frames is the top tube gusset. Now, I have to say I really like how it stiffens up the bike. I stand the majority of the time and crank the bars up as I mash down with the opposing leg, which puts a lot of twisting force on the head and top tube. I can honestly say that the new frame does not flex as much and I can feel it when standing. It just feels more efficient. While descending I can't really feel a difference. What's more apparent is the more precise steering and the plushness of the fork. I can't say if the top tube gusset is helping there or not.

    Here are my thoughts. If you're a heavy single-speeder or if you climb out of the saddle a lot, then you'll appreciate the top tube gusset. If you spin or grind out climbs seated, then I doubt you'd notice anything but the weight it adds to your bike, if that. Now when it comes to the fork, I feel it's a tremendous upgrade. It mates up nicely with the frame. I may bump it up to 130mm, but I'm going to wait until I have more time with it at 120mm. Also, I'm really digging the color even though I was one of the earlier detractors.

  39. #439
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    Your bike looks AWESOME, I think now I'm really convinced to get a Honzo. Although I'll probably get the complete bike and swap parts later on.

  40. #440
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    Hi Carabao! I tryed to send you an MP but the Forum rules tells me that I need to make at least 10 post before... Nor this is my firsr post and I dont want to SPAM all over the Forum..... So, can you send me an MP please, I am interessed in buyin your old bike. Thank you.

  41. #441
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    Damn! Even using the "Reply" buton I still cant send any MP!
    Anyway... Thank you CARABAO for answering me. Do I have to understand that you dont sell the DOSS anymore? Or maybe you dont have the 142x12 Dropouts anymore??? In any case can you send me your price and maybe your e-mail?
    About shipping costs to switzerland(CP 1207), they seems to be less than 100$. As an example, there is a copy/paste from a buying process simulation on bikeman.com:
    -----------------------------------------------------------
    UPS Worldwide Express $266.86
    USPS Express Mail International $92.10
    USPS Priority Mail International $72.52
    -----------------------------------------------------------

    Do you accept Paypal?

    Thank you.

  42. #442
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    Update and Warning for Fox 34 Owners

    First of all, if you want to change the travel in a 2012 34 Float the procedure is NOT the same as other 2012 Float forks. Although you change travel by adding/removing spacers from the air spring side, the air spring/plunger will NOT come out though the top of the fork. It has to be removed from the bottom by removing the lowers and the retaining clip. I had the worst time trying to hammer the air spring up through the top of the fork and ended up damaging the threads to the air spring/plunger shaft. I was able to rethread the shaft threads and my fork is fine, but I wanted to save others from doing as I did and having to spend $30 on a rethread kit. A call to Fox confirmed that you can't push the air spring/plunger through the top and must access it from the bottom.

    I went through all of this to raise my fork 10mm. I now have it set to 130mm and have the stem all but slammed except for a Cane Creek upper and a 2.5 spacer. Handling was pretty good the way I had it, but a bit on the twitchy side and I had to lean back a bit to avoid oversteering. This change makes the bike feel more natural and steering more intuitive. The bottom bracket measures just under 12.5" and I suspect the head angle is now about 67.5 degrees.

  43. #443
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  44. #444
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    New chainring (e13) and Nukeproof Warhead Riser 800mm - works pretty fine for me!


  45. #445
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    What size seatpost clamp is needed? I can measure at home, but I am at work...

    Thanks!

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by el_chupo_ View Post
    What size seatpost clamp is needed? I can measure at home, but I am at work...

    Thanks!
    35mm

    Get the Chromag QR. Best clamp ever!!!
    konahonzo

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    35mm

    Get the Chromag QR. Best clamp ever!!!
    Appreciate it. Been running Chromag Q/R's for 4 years. Just needed to be sure it was the 35mm version.

  48. #448
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    Hi,

    I rode somewhere that it is possible to get a 2x10 set up. Does anyone have the specs for me? I want to convert it with a front derailleur if possible.
    Thanks.

  49. #449
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    Hey Honzo owners,

    I am probably going to get a 2013 Honzo Frame and want to set it up with a 28t MRP bling ring with a sram x9 crank arm. I want the lightest, simplest, and cheapest chain guide solution and it appears that the Paul's chain keeper may be the best bet. It looks as though it could be mounted properly on the frame and set low enough to secure the small 28t ring since there is no spider using this bling ring setup with the sram crank. I know there is an MRP branded 1x guide, but it appears to have less adjustment ability and it costs more money. There is also the MRP micro guide, but that seems bulky and ugly, and it costs 150 bucks

    Anyone got experience or suggestions on these Paul's guides or the MRP 1x guide with a 28t bling ring?

    Thanks, Kevin

  50. #450
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    Honzo frame or a real wheelset?

    Should I buy a Honzo frame or a Flow/i23, Hope wheel set? I currently am riding an '11Trek Mamba that is built very much like a Stache (same geo). It is rocking a 120mm Micro ti fork, SLX 2x10 (1x10 tomorrow) and brakes and everything else except wheels. Stock Ranger Wheel set (like 17 or 19 mm internal) running tubeless with big tires that squirm a lot. Would the Honzo be worth it before wheels? The rear will hardly stay true due to my landing capilities. Or would waiting on the framebe a better idea because I will have both by the end of next year?

  51. #451
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    Frame > Wheels. The geo will make a much bigger difference than your wheels, flexy or not.
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  52. #452
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    Hello Honzo riders

    I am currently thinking about building up a Honzo. I am currently riding a 2010 GF paragon here in Southwester PA. I have a lot of climbing to do at most of the trails in my area with a good amount of descending. I love the idea of more travel up front and a little bit more upright position.

    My concerns: Will I be giving up a lot of climbing ability? Will I be giving up a lot of speed on the rolling "flattish" stuff that we have in my area? Build it with 120mm or 140mm up front?

    6'2 currently on a L paragon. Go for L or XL honzo frame?

  53. #453
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    Thanks Noot for the quick reply. That is the way I was leaning, to get on a Honzo as quick as I can. Now if I can convince my wife the need of uping my monthly bike budget. The 2013 colors have really grown on me over the 2012 blue. I think I am going to go for the 16, 23" tt's seem to fit me the best. 5'9" and I am not really happy on the 23.7" tt I am on now.

  54. #454
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    Double post.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Thanks Noot for the quick reply. That is the way I was leaning, to get on a Honzo as quick as I can. Now if I can convince my wife the need of uping my monthly bike budget. The 2013 colors have really grown on me over the 2012 blue. I think I am going to go for the 16, 23" tt's seem to fit me the best. 5'9" and I am not really happy on the 23.7" tt I am on now.
    The Honzo was designed with a shorter stem in mind, so if you go with a shorter TT and a shorter stem, it may end up too short.

    And yeah, I hated the new color until I saw it in real life... then I liked it
    Last edited by noot; 10-29-2012 at 08:53 AM.
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  56. #456
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    Makes me want to paint mine. Found this custom painted Honzo from Japan on flickr tonight. Looks awesome!!!!




    konahonzo

  57. #457
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    Is it my eyes or are the wall thicknesses of 2013 dropouts thinner?

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Makes me want to paint mine. Found this custom painted Honzo from Japan on flickr tonight. Looks awesome!!!!
    Wow!
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  59. #459
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    I really hope Sram moves the XX1 group down the line quickly. Looks sweet!

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by jave-mtr View Post
    Is it my eyes or are the wall thicknesses of 2013 dropouts thinner?
    Here are 2012 for comparison.

    http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7...abc351cd_o.jpg

    It's a big pic.
    konahonzo

  61. #461
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    Rohloff hub anyone? Found this 2013 Honzo.


    konahonzo

  62. #462
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    Honzo vs Steely

    So today I rode my brother's Honzo and thought I should share my experience with all you Honzo fans. But first - some background. I'm not new to the 29" world, but I currently ride a 2012 Kona Steely. For those of you who don't know, the Honzo was designed after the Steely and they have similar geometry, with compromises for the differences between 26" and 29" wheels to meet somewhere in the middle. Here are some key stats to compare the 2 bikes (Honzo/Steely)

    HA: 68 vs 67
    BBH: 12.25 both
    CS: 16.3/16.5
    Travel: 120mm/130mm

    So you can see the HA is steeper on the Honzo by a degree, the CS shorter, and travel shorter - all of which brings it closer to the sharper handling 26" Steely, which has more travel and slacker HA to make up for smaller wheels.

    My previous experience was on an Air9. Definitely NOT an AM hardtail, but still a 29. The reason I switched back to 26 is because I felt that I was missing some of the fun factor.

    29 makes a bike more stable in the air, up hill and DH on the trail. It also has better traction, and maintains wheel speed better than 26. All of those characteristics are exactly what riders are looking for when they get a Honzo, but somehow it robs the trail of the fun and excitement I love to ride for.

    There's something about being on the edge, whipping through turns, pumping on the back side of whoops, and a series of Return of the Jedi inspiring tight turns that scream 26 territory.

    But I digress

    On today's ride I set PRs everywhere I went, with exception of a super tight technical trail with back to back turns, rocks, rail road ties, and drops. To be absolutely honest though, overall I was significantly faster.

    So am I a convert? Not yet, but MAYBE later.

  63. #463
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    Anyone riding with Specialized Purgatory tires? How's the fitment on the rear?
    konahonzo

  64. #464
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    Ok, looking for some wheel suggestions again, I posted this in the components forum, but I doubt these wheel suggestion threads get much of a response.

    So, I'm currently on a stock Kona Honzo 2012. This is my first 29'r, and I definitely see some benefits, but really do miss things on my 26. The last 26 I rode was a similar build/geo, so I think ive been able to make a pretty good assessment of what I do and dont like about the niner. The glaring issue is the playfullness, I ride flat pedals, short stem wide bars and throwing the bike around in the air, and in corners doesnt seem to be as fun. I actually feel like I have a lot of trouble even getting the bike sideways at all now.

    This still under weighs the benefits to me at the moment though, but this could wear off a bit, and I could want to be more fun again. I want to make sure I give this a real shot though, and am thinking the build could have something to with this.

    The wheels seem quite heavy, this is my setup:
    Front Hub - Formula Disc
    Rear Hub - Shimano M475 Disc
    Spokes - Stainless 14g
    Rims - WTB FX 23
    Tires - Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front 2.25 rear with tubes

    I was thinking less rotation mass might help this bike a lot? especially with the big hoops? How much difference does 100g a rim really make? I would like to go tubeless and would consider a tire change as well.

    My thoughts are Stans Flow's? paired to ....? I would like to keep the cost relatively low, but it might be a good time to build up a good custom wheel set. Are there any great deals out there at the moment? Is it really worth dropping 600+ or will a $300 wheelset make a big difference?

    Keep in mind, I'm 6'4" 220 lbs, riding rocky and rooty stuff in new england.

    -Sean

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach349 View Post
    Hello Honzo riders

    I am currently thinking about building up a Honzo. I am currently riding a 2010 GF paragon here in Southwester PA. I have a lot of climbing to do at most of the trails in my area with a good amount of descending. I love the idea of more travel up front and a little bit more upright position.

    My concerns: Will I be giving up a lot of climbing ability? Will I be giving up a lot of speed on the rolling "flattish" stuff that we have in my area? Build it with 120mm or 140mm up front?

    6'2 currently on a L paragon. Go for L or XL honzo frame?
    I would go L, i'm 6'4" on the XL, and I like it, but anything lionger than a 50mm stem feels super long on it. Depends on your proportions though and the riding. I could see the L working better on the tighter stuff around here, but the XL is awesome at times as well, especially running such a short stem.

  66. #466
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    BTW, another trashed freehub body on the stock 12' wheelset. Absolutely ridiculous. I'm going to try one of the XT freehub bodies on there for now (until I pick and build up a new wheelset).

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    Ok, looking for some wheel suggestions again, I posted this in the components forum, but I doubt these wheel suggestion threads get much of a response.

    So, I'm currently on a stock Kona Honzo 2012. This is my first 29'r, and I definitely see some benefits, but really do miss things on my 26. The last 26 I rode was a similar build/geo, so I think ive been able to make a pretty good assessment of what I do and dont like about the niner. The glaring issue is the playfullness, I ride flat pedals, short stem wide bars and throwing the bike around in the air, and in corners doesnt seem to be as fun. I actually feel like I have a lot of trouble even getting the bike sideways at all now.

    This still under weighs the benefits to me at the moment though, but this could wear off a bit, and I could want to be more fun again. I want to make sure I give this a real shot though, and am thinking the build could have something to with this.

    The wheels seem quite heavy, this is my setup:
    Front Hub - Formula Disc
    Rear Hub - Shimano M475 Disc
    Spokes - Stainless 14g
    Rims - WTB FX 23
    Tires - Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front 2.25 rear with tubes

    I was thinking less rotation mass might help this bike a lot? especially with the big hoops? How much difference does 100g a rim really make? I would like to go tubeless and would consider a tire change as well.

    My thoughts are Stans Flow's? paired to ....? I would like to keep the cost relatively low, but it might be a good time to build up a good custom wheel set. Are there any great deals out there at the moment? Is it really worth dropping 600+ or will a $300 wheelset make a big difference?

    Keep in mind, I'm 6'4" 220 lbs, riding rocky and rooty stuff in new england.

    -Sean
    If you want some agility back and be able to go sideways (oversteer kinda), get a Fox 34 fork w/ 51mm offset. It changed the way my bike handled a lot. I started out at 120mm, went to 130mm, and I'm back to 120mm. I prefer 120mm, but at 130 drops and steep descents were easier.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    If you want some agility back and be able to go sideways (oversteer kinda), get a Fox 34 fork w/ 51mm offset. It changed the way my bike handled a lot. I started out at 120mm, went to 130mm, and I'm back to 120mm. I prefer 120mm, but at 130 drops and steep descents were easier.
    I guess thats kind of what I mean, and I could imagine that to make a difference for me, but it my head, I'm thinking its the rotational mass, keeping everything going straight. I'm more talking about in the air. We have this one rock on my normal loop, that I use as a way of judging how a trail bike feels in the air, and this just doesnt feel right.

    This could be going back to the whole bottom bracket drop issue. I really want to test the charge bikes frame. Complete other end of the geo (steeper/higher) for the same task..

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    I guess thats kind of what I mean, and I could imagine that to make a difference for me, but it my head, I'm thinking its the rotational mass, keeping everything going straight. I'm more talking about in the air. We have this one rock on my normal loop, that I use as a way of judging how a trail bike feels in the air, and this just doesnt feel right.

    This could be going back to the whole bottom bracket drop issue. I really want to test the charge bikes frame. Complete other end of the geo (steeper/higher) for the same task..
    Well the stock wheelset is HEAVY. I run Flow EX's and Hans Dampf front/rear. I'm going to go with a Nobby Nic rear next and that weighs 100 grams less than the Hans. If you were in Socal I'd let you try out my wheelset. I imagine it'd make a huge difference in the air with all the rotational mass spinning and momentum wanting carry you straignt ahead.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    Is it really worth dropping 600+ or will a $300 wheelset make a big difference?
    -Sean
    Try finding a set of Sun Ringle Charger Experts 29er. I spent $300 on mine last year during winter sales and they have been bombproof for me all season long. I'm the same size as yourself and quite hard on my stuff. I had to do more maintenance on my last wheelset (Hope Pro 2 / Mavic EX721, DH-quality wheelset) than on these, and I now take much more aggressive lines as well, since riding the 29er Honzo is a like a honeybadger.

    In terms of $$ Hope hubs to the stock Sun Ringle stuff, I absolutely feel no difference in riding. They even sound similar too, Easy to set up tubeless as well, I'm never going back to tubes. I was worried about going with a budget wheelset, especially one's that only 28H for my weight but it has been the best value purchase I think on my build thus far. Definitely an eye opener.

    The only thing negative I can say about my setup was the stock aluminum freehub made a ton of noise during climbs and didn't look pretty. Ended up with a steel freehub body from Sun Ringle and it's been quiet ever since. I can power on the climbs without a worry about it exploding or making any noise. Also I came to realize the stock Ardent setup is great for dry summer riding. When it gets wet and muddy in the fall or spring, they absolutely suck in the mud. Plus they aren't the lightest tire either.
    konahonzo

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Try finding a set of Sun Ringle Charger Experts 29er. I spent $300 on mine last year during winter sales and they have been bombproof for me all season long. I'm the same size as yourself and quite hard on my stuff. I had to do more maintenance on my last wheelset (Hope Pro 2 / Mavic EX721, DH-quality wheelset) than on these, and I now take much more aggressive lines as well, since riding the 29er Honzo is a like a honeybadger.

    In terms of $$ Hope hubs to the stock Sun Ringle stuff, I absolutely feel no difference in riding. They even sound similar too, Easy to set up tubeless as well, I'm never going back to tubes. I was worried about going with a budget wheelset, especially one's that only 28H for my weight but it has been the best value purchase I think on my build thus far. Definitely an eye opener.

    The only thing negative I can say about my setup was the stock aluminum freehub made a ton of noise during climbs and didn't look pretty. Ended up with a steel freehub body from Sun Ringle and it's been quiet ever since. I can power on the climbs without a worry about it exploding or making any noise. Also I came to realize the stock Ardent setup is great for dry summer riding. When it gets wet and muddy in the fall or spring, they absolutely suck in the mud. Plus they aren't the lightest tire either.
    Thanks! Awesome, now I just need to deal hunt. I would be dropping 700 grams just going to the experts, 900 to the pro. And thats not including tubes. I saw them cheap earlier in the year as well. need to find them again.

    Stupid thing, are the graphics just stickers?

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    Thanks! Awesome, now I just need to deal hunt. I would be dropping 700 grams just going to the experts, 900 to the pro. And thats not including tubes. I saw them cheap earlier in the year as well. need to find them again.

    Stupid thing, are the graphics just stickers?
    Sure are. Those were the first thing I peeled off. Super easy too, no residue. Although I've seen them work on some bikes. The blue Honzo isn't one of them.
    konahonzo

  73. #473
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    How easy/hard is it to raise my revelation to 140?

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    How easy/hard is it to raise my revelation to 140?
    Quite simple really.

    Workshop: How To Adjust Travel On A RockShox Trail Fork - BikeRadar
    konahonzo

  75. #475
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    Tubeless???

    Just ordered a '13 Honzo, can't wait to get it. I'm planning on setting it up tubeless and wondered if anybody knows if they ship it with the valve stems and rim tape required. If not I'll order them now so I can change it before the first ride...

  76. #476
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    Does Kona include valve stems and rim tape to convert to tubeless with the '13 Honzo? Just ordered mine and want to set it up tubeless. I would like to know before I get the bike so I can order the parts if I need to

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvan View Post
    Does Kona include valve stems and rim tape to convert to tubeless with the '13 Honzo? Just ordered mine and want to set it up tubeless. I would like to know before I get the bike so I can order the parts if I need to
    I'd say it's pretty darn unlikely. An aftermarket tubeless wheel I bought came with the strips, but the same wheel OEM didn't. They try to cut corners anywhere they can, hence "tubeless ready"
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  78. #478
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    Yeah, that's what I figured. Im used to running tubeless with 28 psi on my Nomad so I def want to ditch the tubes before my first ride on the Honzo, I'm gonna need that inch of tire suspension in the back, lol!

    Btw... Thought I'd have the bike by now but an inventory mistake now delays it another week. Crap!!! Oh well, at least my KS950 dropper post will be here waiting. Pretty sure I'd hate any bike without one now that I'm spoiled.

  79. #479
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    Got the frame about a week ago now, slowly amassing parts for my build. Gonna toss a 34 Float 29 on there as the fork.

    Wheels are gonna be awesome - the dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims. Can't wait for the hubs to get sent out!

    Thinking XX1 cranks with 10-speed grip shift and Type-2 rear derailleur, and the rest of the build is going to be solid stuff that should keep weight below the 30 pound line.

    Can't wait! At least it's not the only mountain bike in the stable...for now.

  80. #480
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    First ride will be tomorrow






    195mm cranks. Even with big Maxxis Minions (2.5" DHF & 2.3" DHR), BB height is only 12". I'll get used to pedal strikes.


    Running SS through the winter at least, 30x19t gearing.

    =SORRY, PHOTO REMOVED=
    Plenty of room for the 2.5" fattie in the (140mm travel) '12 RS Revelation Dual Position fork.

    =SORRY, PHOTO REMOVED=
    Rear clearance #1. Again, this is a Maxxis Minion DHR 2.3" tire.

    =SORRY, PHOTO REMOVED=
    Rear clearance #2.

    =SORRY, PHOTO REMOVED=
    Rear clearance #3.

    Fire away.

    --Sparty
    Last edited by Sparticus; 12-02-2012 at 04:57 AM.
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    We get old because we quit riding.

  81. #481
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    I want those tires!
    konahonzo

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I want those tires!
    If my reports have any sway with Maxxis, the 29x2.5 DHF & 29x2.3 DHR (tubeless, BTW) will be available soon.

    (Though DHFs f&r wouldn't be a bad way to go.)

    --Sparty

    EDIT -- OOPS, PROTO TIRE SHOTS REMOVED, SORRY.
    disciplesofdirt.org

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    We get old because we quit riding.

  83. #483
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    Can anyone confirm the honzo headset specs- looks like a standard 44mm head tube?
    31.6 seat tube, correct?

    Thanks!

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Can anyone confirm the honzo headset specs- looks like a standard 44mm head tube?
    31.6 seat tube, correct?

    Thanks!
    correct

  85. #485
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    Thanks carabao.
    Will be building up stick-boys old Honzo over the holidays- stoked!!

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus View Post
    If my reports have any sway with Maxxis, the 29x2.5 DHF & 29x2.3 DHR (tubeless, BTW) will be available soon.

    (Though DHFs f&r wouldn't be a bad way to go.)

    --Sparty
    I'd given up on those months ago...........could it really be true?
    Trailwrecker at large

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubes17319 View Post
    I'd given up on those months ago...........could it really be true?
    Time will tell.

    --Sparty
    disciplesofdirt.org

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    We get old because we quit riding.

  88. #488
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    Can anyone using the 12x142 dropouts comment on if they improve stiffness over the QR dropouts? I'm thinking of getting the Kona dealer in town to order some up for me if they're worth it.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Thanks carabao.
    Will be building up stick-boys old Honzo over the holidays- stoked!!
    Nice!
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Thanks carabao.
    Will be building up stick-boys old Honzo over the holidays- stoked!!
    I checked out your flickr riding pics. Sweet riding in your neck of the woods. The Honzo will fit right in.

  91. #491
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    A few minor changes that happened mid-season (Saint M810 SS derailleur, Saint BB, and ESI Chunky grips) and the last pictures for this year before I tear it all apart for maintenance and warranty on the Fox 34 (creaking CSU) and Reverb (drops in travel).

    No changes planned for next year other than tidying up the cables up front a bit, wouldn't change a thing really.

    All in all, it's been a great year of riding.




    konahonzo

  92. #492
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    I really must say again, that has to be the best looking Kona Honzo I've seen.

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I checked out your flickr riding pics. Sweet riding in your neck of the woods. The Honzo will fit right in.
    Right on Carabao. I rode a yelli screamy for most of 2010 so I know I'm gonna love the Honzo!

    Just picked up the frame from the local PC shop. Color is a little darker / browner than this picture shows. Dropped 'em a holiday 6-pack
    I think I have everything to build 'er up over the holidays, I'll post pics when shes done!

    Thanks to Eurospec and Playdead for the build help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo.jpg  


  94. #494
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    Lovely.
    konahonzo

  95. #495
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    Hey Eurospek, awesome photos! (and nice bike,too) Do you mind if I ask what kind of camera you used for those? The detail is nice.

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Right on Carabao. I rode a yelli screamy for most of 2010 so I know I'm gonna love the Honzo!

    Just picked up the frame from the local PC shop. Color is a little darker / browner than this picture shows. Dropped 'em a holiday 6-pack
    I think I have everything to build 'er up over the holidays, I'll post pics when shes done!

    Thanks to Eurospec and Playdead for the build help.
    No worries! Now you just gotta drive north a couple of hours to Bellingham so we can ride. Seriously
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by cackalacky View Post
    Hey Eurospek, awesome photos! (and nice bike,too) Do you mind if I ask what kind of camera you used for those? The detail is nice.
    Nikon D5000 x 35mm f/1.8 shot on wide open aperture.
    konahonzo

  98. #498
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    I guess the Honzo is becoming pretty popular since Kona has run out of Large 2013's. I've been waiting over a month to get mine! We've been having a mild winter in NJ so far, I just hope it lasts so I can get a few rides in!

  99. #499
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    Hi Guys,

    Can anyone confirm what the correct sizing axles would be for a 2012 Honzo? It looks like a 20mm QR in the Front?...and what in the back? Looking to order some new wheels for a Honzo I have coming in.

    Thanks!
    `12 Stumpjumper Expert Carbon 29er HT
    `10 Stumpjumper Comp FSR - Sold

  100. #500
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    It should have a 20mm thru axle up front and 135mm QR out back if it has the stock 2012 dropouts. If it has the new ones, it will be a 142x12 spacing.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

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