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  1. #4401
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    Size?

    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    My new Ti Honzo. it is soo good.
    Did you pick the right size? How's the fit? What size stem did you settle in on?

    Thx!

  2. #4402
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    I really wanted this DHF 2.5 to work out. I had millimeters of clearance on both sides of the chainstays. But, alas, it's not to be.

    On smooth terrain in a straight line there isn't a peep of rubbing. However, the moment that power gets applied to the pedals on unven/tech trails, cornering hard and charging hard on tech trails there's a symphony of tire buzz on the chainstays!

    It's disappointing because the extra volume really helps take the sting out of hard hits and I'm running the tire on a ghetto tubeless setup. Which means that it's a wasted 26" inner tube because of how it's trimmed. There's no way to reuse it after a tire change.
    I'm running a ghetto setup because the rim will not stop burping if it isn't setup the ghetto tubeless way.


  3. #4403
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    Hey @rideeverything,
    sorry to hear your disappointment. I settled on a 2.3 dhf in the rear on my '13 Honzo. There is a bit of room on both sides, so maybe a 2.4 dhr would fit. Have you considered that one?
    Happy trails, rynee

  4. #4404
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Will a bb30 crankset work in the ti honzo
    the Ti honzo has a threaded bb, standard 68/73 will do

  5. #4405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hey @rideeverything,
    sorry to hear your disappointment. I settled on a 2.3 dhf in the rear on my '13 Honzo. There is a bit of room on both sides, so maybe a 2.4 dhr would fit. Have you considered that one?
    Happy trails, rynee
    I was running the 2.3 DHF front and rear for almost the entire season.
    They're fast and make the bike feel nimble but there's just not enough volume to run the pressure I'd like to absorb hits without bottoming the rims and slicing the tires.
    They're also just a little too narrow for my liking. I want a bigger footprint for what and how I ride.

    Now I have an eThirteen TRS+ 2.35 tire out back and I'm running a Schwalbe Magic Mary Addix Soft 2.35 on the front.
    The TRS+ has a decent tread pattern and a pretty big volume for a 2.35.
    I just rode it for the first time today. It hooks up in the corners like nobody's business!
    Last edited by RideEverything; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:58 AM.

  6. #4406
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    I want to build a Honzo Singlespeed for chunky endurance races. I'm trying to decide if the 3lb weight savings of the Ti Honzo is really worth the extra money over the steel Honzo. I can practically buy a frame, fork, and build a pair of sick wheels for the price of the Ti frame.

  7. #4407
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50trails View Post
    Did you pick the right size? How's the fit? What size stem did you settle in on?

    Thx!
    Coming from a Medium 2014 Steel Honzo I went with the Large Ti Honzo, I noticed the reach but its a better fit. my steel Honzo I was running a 55mm stem on the large Ti I am running a Chromag 31mm stem might try a 40mm stem just to try it.

  8. #4408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebeat007 View Post
    I want to build a Honzo Singlespeed for chunky endurance races. I'm trying to decide if the 3lb weight savings of the Ti Honzo is really worth the extra money over the steel Honzo. I can practically buy a frame, fork, and build a pair of sick wheels for the price of the Ti frame.
    I raced the 2017 ST at singlespeedapalooza this past spring. It weighed close to 28 lbs with carbon 29er wheels but didn't hold me back from a top 15 out of 80+ in the elite field. My previous ss bike was also steel but weighed closer to 25 lbs and was more xc oriented. I prefer the Honzo ST in every scenario so far. If I had the cash, I'd buy the ti, but I wouldn't buy the ti if it meant compromising on wheels or fork.

  9. #4409
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    I finally got my build together and had my inagural ride today... This thing is an absolute BLAST!! I have a few things I want to change... (I dont like the orange brake line going to the rear I will change that, I need a water bottle cage and a dropper post (will probably be getting a Thompson dropper after the Holidays) It was a fun process but not sure I'll do a ground up build build EVER again (unless I'm pulling from the used parts bin) it took way more of my money and time than I anticipated. Its a solid bike though! I'm psyched - just broke.

    Basic build is as follows:

    Honzo ST Frame Size L
    SRAM XO1
    11-42 rear
    30T Race Face front
    170mm RACE FACE Turbine Cranks
    Race Face Chester pedals
    29" Stans Flow MK3 wheelset
    Maxxis Minion 29 x 2.5"
    Shimano Deore XT (trail) brakes
    RockShock PIKE 120mm
    Race Face 50mm stem
    Cane Creek 40 headset
    Chromag saddle


    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-22279698_10156009648449683_5725686754660566734_n.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_4729.jpg

  10. #4410
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    Looks great - I kinda like the orange brake line, lol. A dropper will be a great addition

  11. #4411
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    Yeah i also think the orange brake line looks great, adds some character to the bike. And a dropper will make you very happy!
    Just out of curiousity, which parts proved to be more expensive than you anticipated?
    Enjoy the bike! Looks and sounds like a great build.

  12. #4412
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Will a bb30 crankset work in the ti honzo
    Google: BSA 30

  13. #4413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Yeah i also think the orange brake line looks great, adds some character to the bike. And a dropper will make you very happy!
    Just out of curiousity, which parts proved to be more expensive than you anticipated?
    Enjoy the bike! Looks and sounds like a great build.
    Really nothing in particular... I was a victim of my own lack of knowledge as well as the fact I would look at a part then realize ďfor just a bit more I can upgrade what I originally planned to a slightly better part!Ē I spent more on the fork and wheels than planned. Then it was all the little stuff that adds up. Basically a lesson that bikes off the floor are a WAY more economical way to buy a bike. Unfortunately they did not offer that in the steel Honzo as a full build so the price of admission was a bit higher by default. I picked the frame about 15 months ago and they did not have the Big Honzo or carbon offerings they have now. That may have changed my decision at the time but Iím not regretting it now. Itís a super cool ride.

  14. #4414
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    Really nothing in particular... I was a victim of my own lack of knowledge as well as the fact I would look at a part then realize ďfor just a bit more I can upgrade what I originally planned to a slightly better part!Ē I spent more on the fork and wheels than planned. Then it was all the little stuff that adds up. Basically a lesson that bikes off the floor are a WAY more economical way to buy a bike. Unfortunately they did not offer that in the steel Honzo as a full build so the price of admission was a bit higher by default. I picked the frame about 15 months ago and they did not have the Big Honzo or carbon offerings they have now. That may have changed my decision at the time but Iím not regretting it now. Itís a super cool ride.
    Building a bike from parts is usually going to cost more than buying a bike of the shop floor. They both have their pros and cons but I have built 2 Honzos and a Balance and have really enjoyed the process of researching, buying as inexpensively as possible and building my bikes. I will continue to build off of frames but I can see the appeal of buying completes, too. My Balance sat in pieces for a few months until I had all the parts to complete it rather than being able to ride it right away. Now Honzo 2.8 (pun intended) is on the horizon but will take a while as funds will still go into maximizing my Balance for the remainder of the year.

  15. #4415
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I was running the 2.3 DHF front and rear for almost the entire season.
    They're fast and make the bike feel nimble but there's just not enough volume to run the pressure I'd like to absorb hits without bottoming the rims and slicing the tires.
    They're also just a little too narrow for my liking. I want a bigger footprint for what and how I ride.

    Now I have an eThirteen TRS+ 2.35 tire out back and I'm running a Schwalbe Magic Mary Addix Soft 2.35 on the front.
    The TRS+ has a decent tread pattern and a pretty big volume for a 2.35.
    I just rode it for the first time today. It hooks up in the corners like nobody's business!
    How does the E13 tire compare to the DHF? And can you compare the two as front tires as well?

  16. #4416
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    Here is my build specs with another picture:

    16 Honzo ST frame (med)
    Rockshox Yari (130mm 15x110)
    Easton Arc 27.5+ (I-35mm)
    Hope Pro4 hubs
    Maxxis Highroller II (2.8)
    Sram 175mm crankset (soon to be Raceface Aeffect)
    XT/Sunrace drivetrain
    SLX brakes (200F/180R)
    Xfusion Manic dropper
    Rental Apex stem (31.8 40mm)
    FSA Orbit 1.5 ZS

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo.jpg
    Last edited by cdavebolt; 2 Days Ago at 10:10 AM.

  17. #4417
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    Really nothing in particular... I was a victim of my own lack of knowledge as well as the fact I would look at a part then realize ďfor just a bit more I can upgrade what I originally planned to a slightly better part!Ē I spent more on the fork and wheels than planned. Then it was all the little stuff that adds up. Basically a lesson that bikes off the floor are a WAY more economical way to buy a bike. Unfortunately they did not offer that in the steel Honzo as a full build so the price of admission was a bit higher by default. I picked the frame about 15 months ago and they did not have the Big Honzo or carbon offerings they have now. That may have changed my decision at the time but Iím not regretting it now. Itís a super cool ride.
    Road bikes are cheap to build. Most of mine worked out way less than buying a complete bike. MTB's are the opposite. I guess much of that is because there are so many parts required (+ # parts * shipping cost ea.), and so many of those parts are low volume production runs so there is little margin for dramatic mark downs. Forks and droppers are the killers, you can buy a really nice carbon road bike for the cost of those two parts alone.

  18. #4418
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    How does the E13 tire compare to the DHF? And can you compare the two as front tires as well?
    So far I've only had two rides with the E13 tire out back.
    It hooks up in corners really well as the side knobs are quite big. Their shape and size are very similar to the Magic Mary side knobs.
    Straight line braking is not as good as I thought they would be. It's not bad by any stretch. The DHF was a comparable straight line braker. I assumed that the E13 would have been better because of the tread pattern.
    The centre knobs are not very tall on the TRS+. They're not semi-slick short but they're not equal in size to the side knobs.

    Comparing the the two tires at this point would be hard as I've only had the E13 on the bike for a very short time. I haven't yet settled on a pressure setting for the E13. I still think I can go a bit lower.
    Also the DHF has seen most of a season as a front tire on my other bike so it is fully broken in and pliable. Whereas the E13 is brand new and quite stiff still. So they feel somewhat different in how they ride at the moment.

    As just a straight up opinion, I personally wouldn't ride the E13 as a front tire. It just doesn't "look" like a front tire to me. Also, the shallower centre treads don't inspire my confidence for grip for tipping in and crawling down steep wet rock lines.
    But, hey, all of this is just me guessing and coming from two rides with it as a back tire. I could be completely wrong with my assumptions!

    I can say that the DHF 2.5 is fantastic as a front tire. I've never had any concerns with grip for cornering, off-camber or steep lines wet or dry. The DHF has always been a go-to tire for me regardless of wheel size and bike that I'm putting them on.
    Although, the Schwalbe Magic Mary is very close as a go-to tire now.

  19. #4419
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    Thanks for the comparison RideEverything. I feel the same way about the 2.5 DHF. It really is an exceptional tire. I guess my question is based on the premise of is there any other tire that is as good at everything and better than the DHF. I also agree on the E13 tire looking like a rear tire.

  20. #4420
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Thanks for the comparison RideEverything. I feel the same way about the 2.5 DHF. It really is an exceptional tire. I guess my question is based on the premise of is there any other tire that is as good at everything and better than the DHF. I also agree on the E13 tire looking like a rear tire.
    The only tires that I've ridden that come close to the DHF are the Schwalbe Magic Mary and the Hans Dampf (in that order of ranking).

    The Magic Mary matches and may exceed the DHF in cornering grip.
    The MM comes up short on rolling resistance when compared to the DHF. The other spot is longevity. IME the DHF outlasts both the MM and HD 5 to 1.
    When either tire is starting to lose side knobs the feeling of losing a knob is way more drastic on the MM.

    The Hans Dampf is a close second to the DHF. It has a better rolling resistance than the MM but it's still not quite as good as the DHF. That being said I think the HD is a better all-round tire than the DHF. Especially when the season gets wet.
    Again the reason the DHF wins out is because of the better longevity. The HD is just scary to ride front or back when the side knobs start to give out and tear off!

    I can get pretty good deals on tires so my go-to setup for Spring and Fall wet weather riding is Magic Mary front and Hans Dampf rear. But I'd run MM both front and rear in a pinch.

    As for rubber compounds, I've ridden almost exclusively Max Terra 3C in the DHF in 2.3 and 2.5. And, Trail Star compound in all my 2.35 Schwalbe tires.
    I'm just now running the new Addix Soft compound in the MM that I have up front on my Honzo. So far so good. It has been quite wet and greasy for the last 2 weeks so the compound has been put to the test.

    The E13 TRS+ 2.35 I'm running on the back is doing well. I do feel that the compound could be a bit softer. I find it loses grip faster than expected in the wet. The compound (Dual Compound) definitely runs to the firmer side of the spectrum.
    The reinforced sidewall is definitely getting a workout now that I've lowered the pressure some more. But it is holding up well and not squirming when cornering hard.
    The rolling resistance is on par with the DHF.

  21. #4421
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    There was a comment a while back questioning why people would run bigger forks on their Honzos. My answer is that I'm a giant guy who rides hard and wants a front end that can deal with me smashing down steeps and tech terrain at speed. And, on a hardtail I definitely ride the front of the bike more as that is where the suspension is so more travel helps with my weight, riding style and terrain.
    I did ride the Honzo with a 140mm fork but it was set up so that it could manage the big hits which basically negated any of the small bump compliance making it almost feel like a rigid fork.

    I started the Spring on an F36 at 150mm. Now this fall I'm running the same F36 fork at 160mm.

    I know I mentioned that 160mm might be too much for the Honzo in a previous post; I was sort of right.
    In a straight line at high speeds and on steep tech trails the 160mm travel is good. However, cornering has been affected. The front end takes more effort to lean over and get a carving feeling than before. I know it's only 10mm but it is noticeable.
    The bonus, though, is I like the slacker front end. I know that there are headsets out there that can adjust for that but right now that is more effort than I want to put in.
    So, it's a bit of a conundrum.

    I will probably bump the travel back down next Spring to 150mm when I bring the fork in for regular service. Maybe.
    Last edited by RideEverything; 1 Week Ago at 11:28 PM.

  22. #4422
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    Had an itch for another single speed and was missing my Niner ros 9, so picked this up from a coworker that doesn't ride anymore. Just swapped to SS tonight hope to try it out tomorrow. Honestly though, Iím still debating on buying a one of the last ros 9 plus bikes from jensonusa and setting as a ss.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-konass2.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-konass1.jpg  


  23. #4423
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdavebolt View Post
    Here is my build specs with another picture:

    16 Honzo ST frame (med)
    Rockshox Yari (130mm 15x110)
    Easton Arc 27.5+ (I-35mm)
    Hope Pro4 hubs
    Maxxis Highroller II (2.8)
    Sram 170mm crankset (soon to be Raceface Aeffect)
    XT/Sunrace drivetrain
    SLX brakes (200F/180R)
    Xfusion Manic dropper
    Rental Apex stem (31.8 40mm)
    FSA Orbit 1.5 ZS

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Honzo.jpg 
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    Any rubbing with those 2.8's?

  24. #4424
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDtoVA View Post
    Hey all. I picked up my 2018 ST build from my local shop today. Don't mind the warning sticker on the front axle!

    Attachment 1159100Attachment 1159101
    What size frame is that?

  25. #4425
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    It's a medium frame

  26. #4426
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    Quote Originally Posted by dseybert View Post
    Awesome. Here's my (size med) 27.5+ up there last weekend.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Looks great. What tyres and wheels did you go with and any rubbing?

  27. #4427
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach17 View Post
    I've noticed on a couple of occasions my tire seems to get a little closer to the left stay also. I just loosen up the drop outs and center the tire and re-tighten. Maybe I just don't torque the dropout bolts enough, but have noticed it a couple of different times.
    Quote Originally Posted by tantrum007 View Post
    Any rubbing with those 2.8's?
    Just to follow up from what zach17 suggested, I adjusted the left dropout bolts and was able to get the wheel close to centered in the stays. I only experienced slight rubbing on two hard climbs during my last ride. So even the more aggressive tread from the Highroller II's fit (though tight). Keep in mind though Maxxis 2.8 tires have been measured to be a true 2.66, so they're slim for a plus size tire.

  28. #4428
    the air is thin up here..
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    If anyone is in the market for an XL Honzo Ti frame let me know...
    2016 Honzo Ti
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon
    www.mngnt.com

  29. #4429
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    Interested to hear if anyone has any experience stripping the finish off a 16 or 17 frame. Loved the orange initially but have recently found I'm not the biggest fan of it anymore. Seems like the decals are under the clear coat - so I'd probably just want to take the clear coat off, get rid of the orange decals, and then potentially re-apply just a 'Kona' decal on the downtube. Then obviously I'd want to clear coat it again.
    Just curious if anyone has done this or has any ideas on how to strip off the clear coat without sanding or sandblasting

  30. #4430
    the air is thin up here..
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach17 View Post
    Interested to hear if anyone has any experience stripping the finish off a 16 or 17 frame. Loved the orange initially but have recently found I'm not the biggest fan of it anymore. Seems like the decals are under the clear coat - so I'd probably just want to take the clear coat off, get rid of the orange decals, and then potentially re-apply just a 'Kona' decal on the downtube. Then obviously I'd want to clear coat it again.
    Just curious if anyone has done this or has any ideas on how to strip off the clear coat without sanding or sandblasting

    Sounds like a big pain in the ass to me, and labor doing that right might end up costing more than the frame itself.

    Why not have buy or have new labels made, and stick them over top of the originals?
    2016 Honzo Ti
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon
    www.mngnt.com

  31. #4431
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Sounds like a big pain in the ass to me, and labor doing that right might end up costing more than the frame itself.

    Why not have buy or have new labels made, and stick them over top of the originals?
    Thought about getting decals to cover up the orange - how durable would a vinyl decal or something similar be on the underside of the downtube though?

    I agree stripping it down does seem like a huge pain, just figured I'd see if anyone has done it and how it went for them. I think if I were to go that route I'd just drop all the decals period and leave the frame just steel. Not sure why but I kinda dig the look of a frame with no decals on it

  32. #4432
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    You can get it stripped to metal and powder coated for around $100 (guessing your frame is steel?). A roll of electrical tape is around $2. Or maybe darker sunglasses so you don't notice the orange so much for about $7.

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