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  1. #4401
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    Size?

    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    My new Ti Honzo. it is soo good.
    Did you pick the right size? How's the fit? What size stem did you settle in on?

    Thx!

  2. #4402
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    I really wanted this DHF 2.5 to work out. I had millimeters of clearance on both sides of the chainstays. But, alas, it's not to be.

    On smooth terrain in a straight line there isn't a peep of rubbing. However, the moment that power gets applied to the pedals on unven/tech trails, cornering hard and charging hard on tech trails there's a symphony of tire buzz on the chainstays!

    It's disappointing because the extra volume really helps take the sting out of hard hits and I'm running the tire on a ghetto tubeless setup. Which means that it's a wasted 26" inner tube because of how it's trimmed. There's no way to reuse it after a tire change.
    I'm running a ghetto setup because the rim will not stop burping if it isn't setup the ghetto tubeless way.


  3. #4403
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    Hey @rideeverything,
    sorry to hear your disappointment. I settled on a 2.3 dhf in the rear on my '13 Honzo. There is a bit of room on both sides, so maybe a 2.4 dhr would fit. Have you considered that one?
    Happy trails, rynee

  4. #4404
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Will a bb30 crankset work in the ti honzo
    the Ti honzo has a threaded bb, standard 68/73 will do

  5. #4405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hey @rideeverything,
    sorry to hear your disappointment. I settled on a 2.3 dhf in the rear on my '13 Honzo. There is a bit of room on both sides, so maybe a 2.4 dhr would fit. Have you considered that one?
    Happy trails, rynee
    I was running the 2.3 DHF front and rear for almost the entire season.
    They're fast and make the bike feel nimble but there's just not enough volume to run the pressure I'd like to absorb hits without bottoming the rims and slicing the tires.
    They're also just a little too narrow for my liking. I want a bigger footprint for what and how I ride.

    Now I have an eThirteen TRS+ 2.35 tire out back and I'm running a Schwalbe Magic Mary Addix Soft 2.35 on the front.
    The TRS+ has a decent tread pattern and a pretty big volume for a 2.35.
    I just rode it for the first time today. It hooks up in the corners like nobody's business!
    Last edited by RideEverything; 10-05-2017 at 06:58 AM.

  6. #4406
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    I want to build a Honzo Singlespeed for chunky endurance races. I'm trying to decide if the 3lb weight savings of the Ti Honzo is really worth the extra money over the steel Honzo. I can practically buy a frame, fork, and build a pair of sick wheels for the price of the Ti frame.

  7. #4407
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50trails View Post
    Did you pick the right size? How's the fit? What size stem did you settle in on?

    Thx!
    Coming from a Medium 2014 Steel Honzo I went with the Large Ti Honzo, I noticed the reach but its a better fit. my steel Honzo I was running a 55mm stem on the large Ti I am running a Chromag 31mm stem might try a 40mm stem just to try it.

  8. #4408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebeat007 View Post
    I want to build a Honzo Singlespeed for chunky endurance races. I'm trying to decide if the 3lb weight savings of the Ti Honzo is really worth the extra money over the steel Honzo. I can practically buy a frame, fork, and build a pair of sick wheels for the price of the Ti frame.
    I raced the 2017 ST at singlespeedapalooza this past spring. It weighed close to 28 lbs with carbon 29er wheels but didn't hold me back from a top 15 out of 80+ in the elite field. My previous ss bike was also steel but weighed closer to 25 lbs and was more xc oriented. I prefer the Honzo ST in every scenario so far. If I had the cash, I'd buy the ti, but I wouldn't buy the ti if it meant compromising on wheels or fork.

  9. #4409
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    I finally got my build together and had my inagural ride today... This thing is an absolute BLAST!! I have a few things I want to change... (I dont like the orange brake line going to the rear I will change that, I need a water bottle cage and a dropper post (will probably be getting a Thompson dropper after the Holidays) It was a fun process but not sure I'll do a ground up build build EVER again (unless I'm pulling from the used parts bin) it took way more of my money and time than I anticipated. Its a solid bike though! I'm psyched - just broke.

    Basic build is as follows:

    Honzo ST Frame Size L
    SRAM XO1
    11-42 rear
    30T Race Face front
    170mm RACE FACE Turbine Cranks
    Race Face Chester pedals
    29" Stans Flow MK3 wheelset
    Maxxis Minion 29 x 2.5"
    Shimano Deore XT (trail) brakes
    RockShock PIKE 120mm
    Race Face 50mm stem
    Cane Creek 40 headset
    Chromag saddle


    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-22279698_10156009648449683_5725686754660566734_n.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_4729.jpg

  10. #4410
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    Looks great - I kinda like the orange brake line, lol. A dropper will be a great addition

  11. #4411
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    Yeah i also think the orange brake line looks great, adds some character to the bike. And a dropper will make you very happy!
    Just out of curiousity, which parts proved to be more expensive than you anticipated?
    Enjoy the bike! Looks and sounds like a great build.

  12. #4412
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Will a bb30 crankset work in the ti honzo
    Google: BSA 30

  13. #4413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Yeah i also think the orange brake line looks great, adds some character to the bike. And a dropper will make you very happy!
    Just out of curiousity, which parts proved to be more expensive than you anticipated?
    Enjoy the bike! Looks and sounds like a great build.
    Really nothing in particular... I was a victim of my own lack of knowledge as well as the fact I would look at a part then realize for just a bit more I can upgrade what I originally planned to a slightly better part! I spent more on the fork and wheels than planned. Then it was all the little stuff that adds up. Basically a lesson that bikes off the floor are a WAY more economical way to buy a bike. Unfortunately they did not offer that in the steel Honzo as a full build so the price of admission was a bit higher by default. I picked the frame about 15 months ago and they did not have the Big Honzo or carbon offerings they have now. That may have changed my decision at the time but Im not regretting it now. Its a super cool ride.

  14. #4414
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    Really nothing in particular... I was a victim of my own lack of knowledge as well as the fact I would look at a part then realize for just a bit more I can upgrade what I originally planned to a slightly better part! I spent more on the fork and wheels than planned. Then it was all the little stuff that adds up. Basically a lesson that bikes off the floor are a WAY more economical way to buy a bike. Unfortunately they did not offer that in the steel Honzo as a full build so the price of admission was a bit higher by default. I picked the frame about 15 months ago and they did not have the Big Honzo or carbon offerings they have now. That may have changed my decision at the time but Im not regretting it now. Its a super cool ride.
    Building a bike from parts is usually going to cost more than buying a bike of the shop floor. They both have their pros and cons but I have built 2 Honzos and a Balance and have really enjoyed the process of researching, buying as inexpensively as possible and building my bikes. I will continue to build off of frames but I can see the appeal of buying completes, too. My Balance sat in pieces for a few months until I had all the parts to complete it rather than being able to ride it right away. Now Honzo 2.8 (pun intended) is on the horizon but will take a while as funds will still go into maximizing my Balance for the remainder of the year.

  15. #4415
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I was running the 2.3 DHF front and rear for almost the entire season.
    They're fast and make the bike feel nimble but there's just not enough volume to run the pressure I'd like to absorb hits without bottoming the rims and slicing the tires.
    They're also just a little too narrow for my liking. I want a bigger footprint for what and how I ride.

    Now I have an eThirteen TRS+ 2.35 tire out back and I'm running a Schwalbe Magic Mary Addix Soft 2.35 on the front.
    The TRS+ has a decent tread pattern and a pretty big volume for a 2.35.
    I just rode it for the first time today. It hooks up in the corners like nobody's business!
    How does the E13 tire compare to the DHF? And can you compare the two as front tires as well?

  16. #4416
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    Here is my build specs with another picture:

    16 Honzo ST frame (med)
    Rockshox Yari (130mm 15x110)
    Easton Arc 27.5+ (I-35mm)
    Hope Pro4 hubs
    Maxxis Highroller II (2.8)
    Sram 175mm crankset (soon to be Raceface Aeffect)
    XT/Sunrace drivetrain
    SLX brakes (200F/180R)
    Xfusion Manic dropper
    Rental Apex stem (31.8 40mm)
    FSA Orbit 1.5 ZS

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo.jpg
    Last edited by cdavebolt; 10-17-2017 at 10:10 AM.

  17. #4417
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    Really nothing in particular... I was a victim of my own lack of knowledge as well as the fact I would look at a part then realize for just a bit more I can upgrade what I originally planned to a slightly better part! I spent more on the fork and wheels than planned. Then it was all the little stuff that adds up. Basically a lesson that bikes off the floor are a WAY more economical way to buy a bike. Unfortunately they did not offer that in the steel Honzo as a full build so the price of admission was a bit higher by default. I picked the frame about 15 months ago and they did not have the Big Honzo or carbon offerings they have now. That may have changed my decision at the time but Im not regretting it now. Its a super cool ride.
    Road bikes are cheap to build. Most of mine worked out way less than buying a complete bike. MTB's are the opposite. I guess much of that is because there are so many parts required (+ # parts * shipping cost ea.), and so many of those parts are low volume production runs so there is little margin for dramatic mark downs. Forks and droppers are the killers, you can buy a really nice carbon road bike for the cost of those two parts alone.

  18. #4418
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    How does the E13 tire compare to the DHF? And can you compare the two as front tires as well?
    So far I've only had two rides with the E13 tire out back.
    It hooks up in corners really well as the side knobs are quite big. Their shape and size are very similar to the Magic Mary side knobs.
    Straight line braking is not as good as I thought they would be. It's not bad by any stretch. The DHF was a comparable straight line braker. I assumed that the E13 would have been better because of the tread pattern.
    The centre knobs are not very tall on the TRS+. They're not semi-slick short but they're not equal in size to the side knobs.

    Comparing the the two tires at this point would be hard as I've only had the E13 on the bike for a very short time. I haven't yet settled on a pressure setting for the E13. I still think I can go a bit lower.
    Also the DHF has seen most of a season as a front tire on my other bike so it is fully broken in and pliable. Whereas the E13 is brand new and quite stiff still. So they feel somewhat different in how they ride at the moment.

    As just a straight up opinion, I personally wouldn't ride the E13 as a front tire. It just doesn't "look" like a front tire to me. Also, the shallower centre treads don't inspire my confidence for grip for tipping in and crawling down steep wet rock lines.
    But, hey, all of this is just me guessing and coming from two rides with it as a back tire. I could be completely wrong with my assumptions!

    I can say that the DHF 2.5 is fantastic as a front tire. I've never had any concerns with grip for cornering, off-camber or steep lines wet or dry. The DHF has always been a go-to tire for me regardless of wheel size and bike that I'm putting them on.
    Although, the Schwalbe Magic Mary is very close as a go-to tire now.

  19. #4419
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    Thanks for the comparison RideEverything. I feel the same way about the 2.5 DHF. It really is an exceptional tire. I guess my question is based on the premise of is there any other tire that is as good at everything and better than the DHF. I also agree on the E13 tire looking like a rear tire.

  20. #4420
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Thanks for the comparison RideEverything. I feel the same way about the 2.5 DHF. It really is an exceptional tire. I guess my question is based on the premise of is there any other tire that is as good at everything and better than the DHF. I also agree on the E13 tire looking like a rear tire.
    The only tires that I've ridden that come close to the DHF are the Schwalbe Magic Mary and the Hans Dampf (in that order of ranking).

    The Magic Mary matches and may exceed the DHF in cornering grip.
    The MM comes up short on rolling resistance when compared to the DHF. The other spot is longevity. IME the DHF outlasts both the MM and HD 5 to 1.
    When either tire is starting to lose side knobs the feeling of losing a knob is way more drastic on the MM.

    The Hans Dampf is a close second to the DHF. It has a better rolling resistance than the MM but it's still not quite as good as the DHF. That being said I think the HD is a better all-round tire than the DHF. Especially when the season gets wet.
    Again the reason the DHF wins out is because of the better longevity. The HD is just scary to ride front or back when the side knobs start to give out and tear off!

    I can get pretty good deals on tires so my go-to setup for Spring and Fall wet weather riding is Magic Mary front and Hans Dampf rear. But I'd run MM both front and rear in a pinch.

    As for rubber compounds, I've ridden almost exclusively Max Terra 3C in the DHF in 2.3 and 2.5. And, Trail Star compound in all my 2.35 Schwalbe tires.
    I'm just now running the new Addix Soft compound in the MM that I have up front on my Honzo. So far so good. It has been quite wet and greasy for the last 2 weeks so the compound has been put to the test.

    The E13 TRS+ 2.35 I'm running on the back is doing well. I do feel that the compound could be a bit softer. I find it loses grip faster than expected in the wet. The compound (Dual Compound) definitely runs to the firmer side of the spectrum.
    The reinforced sidewall is definitely getting a workout now that I've lowered the pressure some more. But it is holding up well and not squirming when cornering hard.
    The rolling resistance is on par with the DHF.

  21. #4421
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    There was a comment a while back questioning why people would run bigger forks on their Honzos. My answer is that I'm a giant guy who rides hard and wants a front end that can deal with me smashing down steeps and tech terrain at speed. And, on a hardtail I definitely ride the front of the bike more as that is where the suspension is so more travel helps with my weight, riding style and terrain.
    I did ride the Honzo with a 140mm fork but it was set up so that it could manage the big hits which basically negated any of the small bump compliance making it almost feel like a rigid fork.

    I started the Spring on an F36 at 150mm. Now this fall I'm running the same F36 fork at 160mm.

    I know I mentioned that 160mm might be too much for the Honzo in a previous post; I was sort of right.
    In a straight line at high speeds and on steep tech trails the 160mm travel is good. However, cornering has been affected. The front end takes more effort to lean over and get a carving feeling than before. I know it's only 10mm but it is noticeable.
    The bonus, though, is I like the slacker front end. I know that there are headsets out there that can adjust for that but right now that is more effort than I want to put in.
    So, it's a bit of a conundrum.

    I will probably bump the travel back down next Spring to 150mm when I bring the fork in for regular service. Maybe.
    Last edited by RideEverything; 10-10-2017 at 11:28 PM.

  22. #4422
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    Had an itch for another single speed and was missing my Niner ros 9, so picked this up from a coworker that doesn't ride anymore. Just swapped to SS tonight hope to try it out tomorrow. Honestly though, Im still debating on buying a one of the last ros 9 plus bikes from jensonusa and setting as a ss.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-konass2.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-konass1.jpg  


  23. #4423
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdavebolt View Post
    Here is my build specs with another picture:

    16 Honzo ST frame (med)
    Rockshox Yari (130mm 15x110)
    Easton Arc 27.5+ (I-35mm)
    Hope Pro4 hubs
    Maxxis Highroller II (2.8)
    Sram 170mm crankset (soon to be Raceface Aeffect)
    XT/Sunrace drivetrain
    SLX brakes (200F/180R)
    Xfusion Manic dropper
    Rental Apex stem (31.8 40mm)
    FSA Orbit 1.5 ZS

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Any rubbing with those 2.8's?

  24. #4424
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDtoVA View Post
    Hey all. I picked up my 2018 ST build from my local shop today. Don't mind the warning sticker on the front axle!

    Attachment 1159100Attachment 1159101
    What size frame is that?

  25. #4425
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    It's a medium frame

  26. #4426
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    Quote Originally Posted by dseybert View Post
    Awesome. Here's my (size med) 27.5+ up there last weekend.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Looks great. What tyres and wheels did you go with and any rubbing?

  27. #4427
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach17 View Post
    I've noticed on a couple of occasions my tire seems to get a little closer to the left stay also. I just loosen up the drop outs and center the tire and re-tighten. Maybe I just don't torque the dropout bolts enough, but have noticed it a couple of different times.
    Quote Originally Posted by tantrum007 View Post
    Any rubbing with those 2.8's?
    Just to follow up from what zach17 suggested, I adjusted the left dropout bolts and was able to get the wheel close to centered in the stays. I only experienced slight rubbing on two hard climbs during my last ride. So even the more aggressive tread from the Highroller II's fit (though tight). Keep in mind though Maxxis 2.8 tires have been measured to be a true 2.66, so they're slim for a plus size tire.

  28. #4428
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    If anyone is in the market for an XL Honzo Ti frame let me know...
    2017 Transmission Smuggler
    2016 Honzo Ti
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon
    www.mngnt.com

  29. #4429
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    Interested to hear if anyone has any experience stripping the finish off a 16 or 17 frame. Loved the orange initially but have recently found I'm not the biggest fan of it anymore. Seems like the decals are under the clear coat - so I'd probably just want to take the clear coat off, get rid of the orange decals, and then potentially re-apply just a 'Kona' decal on the downtube. Then obviously I'd want to clear coat it again.
    Just curious if anyone has done this or has any ideas on how to strip off the clear coat without sanding or sandblasting

  30. #4430
    the air is thin up here..
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach17 View Post
    Interested to hear if anyone has any experience stripping the finish off a 16 or 17 frame. Loved the orange initially but have recently found I'm not the biggest fan of it anymore. Seems like the decals are under the clear coat - so I'd probably just want to take the clear coat off, get rid of the orange decals, and then potentially re-apply just a 'Kona' decal on the downtube. Then obviously I'd want to clear coat it again.
    Just curious if anyone has done this or has any ideas on how to strip off the clear coat without sanding or sandblasting

    Sounds like a big pain in the ass to me, and labor doing that right might end up costing more than the frame itself.

    Why not have buy or have new labels made, and stick them over top of the originals?
    2017 Transmission Smuggler
    2016 Honzo Ti
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon
    www.mngnt.com

  31. #4431
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Sounds like a big pain in the ass to me, and labor doing that right might end up costing more than the frame itself.

    Why not have buy or have new labels made, and stick them over top of the originals?
    Thought about getting decals to cover up the orange - how durable would a vinyl decal or something similar be on the underside of the downtube though?

    I agree stripping it down does seem like a huge pain, just figured I'd see if anyone has done it and how it went for them. I think if I were to go that route I'd just drop all the decals period and leave the frame just steel. Not sure why but I kinda dig the look of a frame with no decals on it

  32. #4432
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    You can get it stripped to metal and powder coated for around $100 (guessing your frame is steel?). A roll of electrical tape is around $2. Or maybe darker sunglasses so you don't notice the orange so much for about $7.

  33. #4433
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image1-1-.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image2-1-.jpg

  34. #4434
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    Quote Originally Posted by tantrum007 View Post
    Looks great. What tyres and wheels did you go with and any rubbing?
    Sorry for the late reply... I'm running it as a 29er now full time but these are the wheels I had on it in the pic:

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2199720/

    Never had any issues with rubbing.

  35. #4435
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    Very nice frame! I like the color abd decals quite well.
    And the dog approves as well, it appears!

  36. #4436
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    Honzo headset

    2016 Honzo ST. What headset you guys running? Seem to be overhauling mine every other month ( cheap OEM one) Wanting to replace it with something decent as bike gets ridden rain, hail or MUD.

    Worth splashing on Chris king? or just a decent cane creek one going to cut it for half the price of the king?

    size I need would also be appreciated

    TIA!

  37. #4437
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    Quote Originally Posted by HonzSolo View Post
    2016 Honzo ST. What headset you guys running? Seem to be overhauling mine every other month ( cheap OEM one) Wanting to replace it with something decent as bike gets ridden rain, hail or MUD.

    Worth splashing on Chris king? or just a decent cane creek one going to cut it for half the price of the king?

    size I need would also be appreciated

    TIA!
    Cane Creek 40 series. About $60. ZS44 top/ ZS49 bottom. If water really kills your headsets, pick up a set on 110 series bearings after the 40's bearings die out on you. It might be awhile though.

  38. #4438
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    Does the steel Honzo have a threaded bottom bracket?

  39. #4439
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jsmith1 View Post
    Does the steel Honzo have a threaded bottom bracket?
    Yes

  40. #4440
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    Quote Originally Posted by HonzSolo View Post
    2016 Honzo ST. What headset you guys running? Seem to be overhauling mine every other month ( cheap OEM one) Wanting to replace it with something decent as bike gets ridden rain, hail or MUD.

    Worth splashing on Chris king? or just a decent cane creek one going to cut it for half the price of the king?
    Unless you really want the King, just get a Cane Creek. They're good quality and great for the money.
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
    SS MonsterCross
    SS cyclocross
    all steel

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  41. #4441
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Jsmith1 View Post
    Does the steel Honzo have a threaded bottom bracket?
    Yes
    If I remember correctly, MY15 was the last one with threaded.
    Don't be mad, I'm totally n00b-ish.

  42. #4442
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    Jenson has the 2018 listed as a pf92. I was hoping that wasn't true.

  43. #4443
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    My 2017 Steel Honzo has a threaded bottom bracket.

  44. #4444
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    Quote Originally Posted by heybear_smooth View Post
    My 2017 Steel Honzo has a threaded bottom bracket.
    I stand corrected. But yes, I have been wondering about that PF on the MY2018.
    Don't be mad, I'm totally n00b-ish.

  45. #4445
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Cane Creek 40 series. About $60. ZS44 top/ ZS49 bottom. If water really kills your headsets, pick up a set on 110 series bearings after the 40's bearings die out on you. It might be awhile though.
    Nice, was leaning to the 40 as the 110 is pretty pricey in NZ! thanks for ya help!

  46. #4446
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    Quote Originally Posted by niplo View Post
    I stand corrected. But yes, I have been wondering about that PF on the MY2018.
    It's a mis-print. The 2018 has a threaded BB.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  47. #4447
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    That's great, I glad they didn't screw up a good thing. I was hoping to change my frame this year.

  48. #4448
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    Carbon 2017/2018 or Ti 2017... updated 2018?

    I'm looking at getting a Honzo but can't decide on carbon (with the boost wheels and lighter frame with both 2017 and 2018 models) or the Ti (no boost for 2017, but the ti... I mean that is sweet right?). I've noticed the reach on the Ti frame wasn't increased as it was on the new carbon frames as well. My current bike's reach is close to the medium of the carbon and the large of the Ti frame...

    So, should I just jump on a good deal on the carbon frame now if I find one or hold out for an updated 2018 Ti frame that has boost hub spacing to allow me to run some beefier tires? I'm looking for the bike to last for years, so I'm willing to wait if anyone thinks the 2018 ti will be updated with boost.

  49. #4449
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    I'm looking at getting a Honzo but can't decide on carbon (with the boost wheels and lighter frame with both 2017 and 2018 models) or the Ti (no boost for 2017, but the ti... I mean that is sweet right?). I've noticed the reach on the Ti frame wasn't increased as it was on the new carbon frames as well. My current bike's reach is close to the medium of the carbon and the large of the Ti frame...

    So, should I just jump on a good deal on the carbon frame now if I find one or hold out for an updated 2018 Ti frame that has boost hub spacing to allow me to run some beefier tires? I'm looking for the bike to last for years, so I'm willing to wait if anyone thinks the 2018 ti will be updated with boost.
    Theres another thread around here ("Kona is done with Ti") saying that the ti is being phased out, and that the currently available ones are from an old batch - hence the old geo. In fact they didnt change since the inaugural 2016 model.
    So it seems you cannot expect a 2018 ti with updated geo

  50. #4450
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Theres another thread around here ("Kona is done with Ti") saying that the ti is being phased out, and that the currently available ones are from an old batch - hence the old geo. In fact they didnt change since the inaugural 2016 model.
    So it seems you cannot expect a 2018 ti with updated geo
    Really? Shoot. That is sad news. Hope that doesn't happen.

  51. #4451
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    Really? Shoot. That is sad news. Hope that doesn't happen.
    The current Ti can run pretty beefy tires without the boost spacing.

  52. #4452
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    The current Ti can run pretty beefy tires without the boost spacing.
    Yeah, to quote Gordon Gecko: "Boost? You gotta be kidding. Boost is for whimps!"


  53. #4453
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    The Ti is the same frame as the 2015/16 St. It is a very versatile frame in regards to tires. 27.5 2.8 to 29 2.6 fits and none of these bikes are boost. It's a killer frame with progressive geo. I would love a Ti but my 16 St is only heavier by 3 lbs or so.

  54. #4454
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    Quote Originally Posted by dseybert View Post
    Sorry for the late reply... I'm running it as a 29er now full time but these are the wheels I had on it in the pic:

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2199720/

    Never had any issues with rubbing.
    Pedal strikes galore, though. What width 29ers are you running now?

  55. #4455
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    Quote Originally Posted by tantrum007 View Post
    Pedal strikes galore, though.
    I actually didn't have any issues with pedal strike. I am running 170mm cranks, and was able to adapt pretty easily to the lower clearance at the pedal. The bigger issue was chainring strikes here in San Diego, where I ride a fair deal of rocky chunk.

  56. #4456
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    The Ti is the same frame as the 2015/16 St. It is a very versatile frame in regards to tires. 27.5 2.8 to 29 2.6 fits and none of these bikes are boost. It's a killer frame with progressive geo. I would love a Ti but my 16 St is only heavier by 3 lbs or so.
    Good to know. I'm still looking at the current 2017 honzo Ti, I just need to find a medium and some good options for components. My initial thought was if I can find the frame, build it up as a 29er with 2.5'' tires, 30 mm internal width rims (not sure what wheels yet), Fox 34 140mm, and a Transfer 150mm post, SRAM drivetrain (X1/X01 x11), and XT Brakes. Thoughts?

  57. #4457
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    Quote Originally Posted by tantrum007 View Post
    What width 29ers are you running now?
    The rims are 36mm internal width. I'm running a 2.5wt DHF and a 2.4wt DHRII.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  58. #4458
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    Does anyone know if the 2017 boost Honzo can go 142x12 with the 2016 and earlier drop outs? Are the frames themselves different or just the drop outs? Thanks

  59. #4459
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    Good to know. I'm still looking at the current 2017 honzo Ti,
    As someone else mentioned, the Ti Honzo is discontinued. It's sold out and the only way to get one is to find one used.
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
    SS MonsterCross
    SS cyclocross
    all steel

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  60. #4460
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    Quote Originally Posted by CB2423 View Post
    Anyone running a Raceface Turbine cinch setup on their honzo or have any experience with this set up. I have never ran anything but a 104 bcd crank and looking at options.
    Yeah mate, came stock on my bike with the Aeffect cranks, currently running an absolute black oval. Anything you want to know in particular? They're super simple to use, its just a lockring ( cant remember if its the external BB tool or cassette tool of hand )

  61. #4461
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeBro View Post
    Does anyone know if the 2017 boost Honzo can go 142x12 with the 2016 and earlier drop outs? Are the frames themselves different or just the drop outs? Thanks
    I believe it is a different frame at the back end, being steel. Just tighten her down mate!

  62. #4462
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    Quote Originally Posted by dseybert View Post
    The rims are 36mm internal width. I'm running a 2.5wt DHF and a 2.4wt DHRII.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Will a 29X2.5 DHF really not fit in the back of the newer boost honzos? If not that is very upsetting.

  63. #4463
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    Quote Originally Posted by tantrum007 View Post
    Will a 29X2.5 DHF really not fit in the back of the newer boost honzos? If not that is very upsetting.
    I have a boost frame and I'm pretty sure the 2.5 DHF would fit in the back if that was what you wanted to do.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  64. #4464
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    Found One!

    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    As someone else mentioned, the Ti Honzo is discontinued. It's sold out and the only way to get one is to find one used.
    Got lucky and found a brand new Ti Honzo Medium frame online last night. Should arrive at my place next week! Super pumped. Building it up slowly this winter (here in CO). Any thoughts on what I should do? I've got a sweet blank canvas coming! Here is what my plan is so far...

    X1/X01 1x11 SRAM drivetrain
    Need to find a bottom bracket and headset that will work well...
    Apex Stem (40-50mm) and carbon renthal fatbar 760mm
    XT brakes
    Fox Transfer 150mm dropper
    Fox 34 29'' 130mm or 140mm fork (What do you all suggest?)
    30-33mm internal width rims... unsure on what to grab for them at this point. I was thinking the new Santa Cruz Reserve Carbon wheels may do the trick... but I'm not sure if I"ll have the $$ left over.

    What do you think? Anything I should change?

  65. #4465
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    For a headset Hope works really well, their BBs are good too. Unless you have a crank already I'd look into RF Nexts or Sixxc.

    Fork I'd suggest going with one which is user-serviceable and has an easy way to swap the travel. RS Pike, MRP and X-Fusion all have forks that fit that bill.

  66. #4466
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    Got lucky and found a brand new Ti Honzo Medium frame online last night. Should arrive at my place next week! Super pumped. Building it up slowly this winter (here in CO). Any thoughts on what I should do? I've got a sweet blank canvas coming! Here is what my plan is so far...

    X1/X01 1x11 SRAM drivetrain
    Need to find a bottom bracket and headset that will work well...
    Apex Stem (40-50mm) and carbon renthal fatbar 760mm
    XT brakes
    Fox Transfer 150mm dropper
    Fox 34 29'' 130mm or 140mm fork (What do you all suggest?)
    30-33mm internal width rims... unsure on what to grab for them at this point. I was thinking the new Santa Cruz Reserve Carbon wheels may do the trick... but I'm not sure if I"ll have the $$ left over.

    What do you think? Anything I should change?
    From what Ive read, 140mm fork will be nice for the low bb pedal strikes

  67. #4467
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    Quote Originally Posted by tantrum007 View Post
    From what Ive read, 140mm fork will be nice for the low bb pedal strikes

    I had heard that too, I'm just wondering if the 140mm will let the front end drift too much on climbs...

  68. #4468
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    I had heard that too, I'm just wondering if the 140mm will let the front end drift too much on climbs...
    No. Go 140

  69. #4469
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    Quote Originally Posted by roseyscot View Post
    No. Go 140
    My front end is pretty light with the 140mm fork on ( running rear wheel slammed) but its a small price to pay for how much better it is at descending. Climbing sucks anyway !

  70. #4470
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    I would very rarely get the light front end sensation with my Honzo at 140mm, but I climb standing. It would have to get very steep for me to feel it. I also ran a 50mm stem rather than a 40mm.

    As for suggestions, get a Cane Creek 40 headset. It's only $60. I would also get a Yari fork for the chassis and throw an Avalanche damper in it. And if you come up short on the Santa Cruz rims, get Spank 345/395s or Chinese carbon. And yes, my suggestions are biased because that is how my current ride is or will be set up with. So will my Honzo, once I rebuild it.

  71. #4471
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    I had heard that too, I'm just wondering if the 140mm will let the front end drift too much on climbs...
    You won't really know until you've tried the stem, fork and handlebar combo, everyone fits their weight on a frame a bit different.

  72. #4472
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    All comes down to terrain - I ride a lot of tight river valley, short ups and downs. Was running a 140, wasn't too bad, didn't wander too much on climbs. Switched to 120 - changed the the bike - handling just so much sharper.

  73. #4473
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    Ti Honzo on my favorite trail in my area, this bike is really nice.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-tihonzo.jpg  


  74. #4474
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    What headset does the current Honzo ST take? I would want to install an angle reducing headset and need to no if it's possible. What size seat post?
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  75. #4475
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    What headset does the current Honzo ST take? I would want to install an angle reducing headset and need to no if it's possible. What size seat post?
    ZS44/ZS56, and works components makes them in that size. Seatpost is 31.6.

  76. #4476
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    I ran the numbers and a -1 headset with a 130mm fork gives a 66.5 HTA, adds 14mm of wheelbase, raises the bb 1.7mm, and reduces the STA to 74.26. More DHiness, but not crazy.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  77. #4477
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    That's what I am going to do once I rebuild my Honzo. I am going -1.5 because none of my bikes are set up for climbing efficiency and the numbers are nearly stock geo with 120mm fork except wheelbase and head angle.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-130mm-geo.png

  78. #4478
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    I would very rarely get the light front end sensation with my Honzo at 140mm, but I climb standing. It would have to get very steep for me to feel it.
    On one of my local trails with a 120mm fork, I do about 25% of it with the front tire off the ground. But at that pitch, a few degrees one way or the other no longer matters, it's already close to the limit of what the back wheel can grip.

  79. #4479
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    I'm going to start my ti Honzo with a pike 140mm, run it soft off the top and progressive near the bottom. 150mm fox transfer for the post. Hoping to find a SRAM drivetrain and XT brakes. My next big decision is what should I do for wheels... I want to run 2.4-2.5'' tires, so 29mm-32mm inner width would be nice. Any reliable carbon wheels out there non-boost that have a warranty in the event they fail?

  80. #4480
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    http://www.weareone.bike

    We Are One wheels have a 60 month warranty, and 1/2 price replacement after that, Hope & Project 321 non boost hubs (and boost too), and are actually MADE in Canada. If I go carbon, these are them.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  81. #4481
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    Those wheels look great for the money. Any thoughts on what would be a good threaded BB for the Honzo Ti to go along with a SRAM 1x drivetrain?

  82. #4482
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    Has or is anyone running a maxxis aggressor? Currently have a minion DHR on the rear but looking for something a fraction faster for summer, looks like they offer a 2.5WT aggressor now too which would be ideal!

    They seem to be coming stock on a lot of enduro bikes.

    TIA

  83. #4483
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    Quote Originally Posted by HonzSolo View Post
    Has or is anyone running a maxxis aggressor? Currently have a minion DHR on the rear but looking for something a fraction faster for summer, looks like they offer a 2.5WT aggressor now too which would be ideal!

    They seem to be coming stock on a lot of enduro bikes.

    TIA
    I've been running an aggressor on the back of my honzo and on my Transition patrol all summer. I love the aggressor in the rear, not as much braking traction as a DHR but it rolls much faster and still manages to provide enough traction to give you confidence in the corners. I'll be putting the wide trail version on my honzo when I get the chance.

  84. #4484
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    2017 Honzo Medium
    Nukeproof stem 50mm
    Nukeproof carbon 780 bars
    Nukeproof pedals
    cane creek headset
    crankbros iodine boost 29ers
    Maxxis DHF 2.5 set tubeless
    ergon grips
    wtb volt comp saddle
    SRAM NX 170mm
    32/16
    Deorre brakes
    Reba boost fork 140mm

    Need a dropper and i'm set.

    Cheers!

    Cheers!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image2-3-.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image3.jpg  

    Last edited by tantrum007; 2 Weeks Ago at 02:27 PM.

  85. #4485
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    Has anyone attempted or have thought of using BMX style bars on their bike?

  86. #4486
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1106.jpg

    Been on this bike for over a year now and it still blows me away how capable it is - handles full on DH bike worthy runs like a champ

  87. #4487
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    My SS Honzo Build

    Been following this thread for what feels like a few years now, and finally pulled the trigger on a Honzo ST a few weeks back. Full custom build, super stoked on how it turned out. Just got back from it's inaugural ride, and I'm blown away. It's amazing what a good hardtail can do!

    Parts list:
    Frame: 2018 Kona Honzo ST, size large (powder coated to desert tan color)
    Fork: 2018 Fox 36 Elite, 140mm
    Drivetrain: White Industries cranks w/32t ring, 18t trials freewheel, KMC SS chain
    Wheels: Paul boost disc hubs laced to WTB Asym i29 rims, DT Competition spokes, alloy nips, Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29x2.6" set up tubeless
    Brakes: TRP Quadiem, 180mm rotors F/R
    Cockpit: White Industries headset, Thomson alloy DH bars 780mm x 20mm, Thomson Elite X4 stem 40mm length, Fox Transfer Performance 150mm, WTB Silverado Pro
    Name:  Honzo.jpg
Views: 396
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  88. #4488
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    Quote Originally Posted by samshaffer16 View Post
    Been following this thread for what feels like a few years now, and finally pulled the trigger on a Honzo ST a few weeks back. Full custom build, super stoked on how it turned out. Just got back from it's inaugural ride, and I'm blown away. It's amazing what a good hardtail can do!

    Parts list:
    Frame: 2018 Kona Honzo ST, size large (powder coated to desert tan color)
    Fork: 2018 Fox 36 Elite, 140mm
    Drivetrain: White Industries cranks w/32t ring, 18t trials freewheel, KMC SS chain
    Wheels: Paul boost disc hubs laced to WTB Asym i29 rims, DT Competition spokes, alloy nips, Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29x2.6" set up tubeless
    Brakes: TRP Quadiem, 180mm rotors F/R
    Cockpit: White Industries headset, Thomson alloy DH bars 780mm x 20mm, Thomson Elite X4 stem 40mm length, Fox Transfer Performance 150mm, WTB Silverado Pro
    We're going to need better pics of that!

  89. #4489
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    Quote Originally Posted by samshaffer16 View Post
    Been following this thread for what feels like a few years now, and finally pulled the trigger on a Honzo ST a few weeks back. Full custom build, super stoked on how it turned out. Just got back from it's inaugural ride, and I'm blown away. It's amazing what a good hardtail can do!

    Parts list:
    Frame: 2018 Kona Honzo ST, size large (powder coated to desert tan color)
    Fork: 2018 Fox 36 Elite, 140mm
    Drivetrain: White Industries cranks w/32t ring, 18t trials freewheel, KMC SS chain
    Wheels: Paul boost disc hubs laced to WTB Asym i29 rims, DT Competition spokes, alloy nips, Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29x2.6" set up tubeless
    Brakes: TRP Quadiem, 180mm rotors F/R
    Cockpit: White Industries headset, Thomson alloy DH bars 780mm x 20mm, Thomson Elite X4 stem 40mm length, Fox Transfer Performance 150mm, WTB Silverado Pro
    Name:  Honzo.jpg
Views: 396
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    How was the powder coating process? PITA or no big deal?

  90. #4490
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    I'll get some more pictures up once I've got the decals set up on the frame - benefits of having Fox be local, have some color-matched fork decals on the way.

    Powder coating process was super easy. Took it to Powder Coat It! in Santa Cruz, dropped the frame off after removing frame hardware, $120 and 4 days later I had the frame back. They did an awesome job masking the frame, pretty much no overspray to deal with.

  91. #4491
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    I'll have to get some more pictures up once I have some decals on the fork, should have some color matched ones from Fox coming this week.

    The powder coat process was really easy. Dropped it off with Powder Coat It! in Santa Cruz with the frame hardware removed, then $120 and 4 days later I had this beauty back. They did a really good job masking the frame, I didn't have any overspray to deal with.

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