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  1. #151
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    Pretty fun bike, about 28lbs on my suspect bathroom scale.

  2. #152
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    ^ That looks awesome!!!
    konahonzo

  3. #153
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    Where is yours?

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by eauxgod View Post
    Where is yours?
    I'll have pictures this week. Still haven't gotten around to building this thing.
    konahonzo

  5. #155
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    Finally got mine built up! No glamor shots yet, took these on the way to the first ride. Too much snow to have fun right now :-(

    EDIT: 26lbs 5oz with pedals.






    Last edited by noot; 03-29-2012 at 12:08 PM.
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  6. #156
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    You might want to route that brake line inside of the fork leg, no? What's that rear tire? Looks beefy.

    Awesome Rubicon.
    konahonzo

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post


    You might want to route that brake line inside of the fork leg, no? What's that rear tire? Looks beefy.

    Awesome Rubicon.
    Thanks

    Was intending to run it inside, but the hose guide is really angled and would make it tough to run it anywhere but where it is... I'll have to take a closer look though.

    Rear tire is an Ikon... I'm seriously consider grabbing a set of either Mountain King 2.4's or Hans Dampfs, but it's gonna be tough gaining 1.5lbs!
    2016 Honzo Ti SS
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  8. #158
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    Looks great as is, but it's an AM machine that begs to be pushed hard...I vote for the Hans Dampfs all the way!

    I'm running dual ply Minion on the rear and single ply up front on my Steely. I didn't even try to weigh the difference. I can certainly feel it when lifting the bike, but you get used to it. The benefits on the DH are worth it to me - especially on the rear. I can run lower pressures for traction purposes with improved rim protection.

  9. #159
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    Actually that is how the fork is designed to have the hose run on the inside, angle is not extreme, also do the same for the rear brake hose - keeping them inside helps avoid them getting snagged by a branch, debris etc and being ripped off.

    As to the tyres, couldn't agree more that something like the Hans suits this type of bike and will really make it come alive, don't be a WW and neuter such a nice bike because of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Was intending to run it inside, but the hose guide is really angled and would make it tough to run it anywhere but where it is... I'll have to take a closer look though.

    Rear tire is an Ikon... I'm seriously consider grabbing a set of either Mountain King 2.4's or Hans Dampfs, but it's gonna be tough gaining 1.5lbs!
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post


    You might want to route that brake line inside of the fork leg, no? What's that rear tire? Looks beefy.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  10. #160
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    I'll try to resolve the hose routing tonight. It just flows so nicely like this! The rear Caliper hose comes out the "wrong" side to route inside the frame, but I'll see :-)

    As for tires: mk2, hd, or ardent? Trails are dirt, roots, sometimes wet, no rocks.

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  11. #161
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    Hans Dampfs

    I'm running Hans Dampfs, Trail Star compound front, and Pace Star compound rear. I only have one ride on them, and I'm coming from Ardents 2.4s front and rear. I'm really liking them so far. They're about $15 more than Ardents. Cornering, traction, and braking is better. They may roll a little slower, but I can't be sure. That's how negligible it is. What really stands out is the slow rebounding properties of the rubber. I have the tires inflated properly, but they absorb the terrain so well that it feels like they're under inflated. The tires absorb instead of deflect and that makes you go faster because the bike feels planted. Volume seems to be the same as the Ardent. They should wear well since I put the harder compound Pace Star on the rear, and the softer Trail Star on the front.

    UPDATE 4/11/12

    After 4-5 rides on the the Hans Dampfs, they are showing premature wear in the form of torn side knobs. Many of the cornering knobs are torn or beginning to tear at the point where the knob meets the casing. I no longer recommend these tires. I was able to get store credit and return mine to Universalcycles.com, excellent customer service. By the way, both the trail stair and pace star had this problem. Also, the pace star which is supposed to be a longer lasting compound wore notably faster than my Ardents. Not a good value in my opinion. The performance of the Hans Dampfs is excellent, but at way too steep a price. Maxxis needs to make a 29" Minion.
    Last edited by carabao; 04-11-2012 at 10:43 AM.

  12. #162
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    More or less room in the back vs the 2.4 Ardent? *
    konahonzo

  13. #163
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    Hans dampfs ordered. All they have is trailstar, so we'll see :-)

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    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon commuter
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  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    More or less room in the back vs the 2.4 Ardent? *
    A little more room because they're the same width, but the ardent has a rounder profile, and/or it's a taller tire by 1/8-1/4 inch. The HDs don't get as close to the chainstay yoke as the Ardents. If you're worried about clearance/mud I would definitely get the HDs. I have read that they're better at shedding mud than the Ardents, but we don't have much mud in San Diego, CA.

  15. #165
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    Bikes look sweeeet. I think a new honzo frame is calling my name. Does anyone have info on steerer tube length for a 16in frame? I have a line on a fork with 7 1/8'' cut steerer tube, will it work??

  16. #166
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    ^ KONAWORLD
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  17. #167
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    Well i got my front wheel built, and got a weight on the shop scale. Came in a little under 28 lbs, which is ok because i never intended it to be an xc race bike. I really just wanted a fun, durable, grab and go SS. Im pretty much done upgrading the bike, there are a few things i could do to drop a few raisins but im in no hurry. I too am still running the geared hanger, the shop i called wanted full retail over 30 bones for the SS specific. Ill get it eventually. I rode it a few days ago after riding my 26er and i actually got that riding inside the bike feel again. I havent had any real issues with pedal strikes, sure it occasionally happens but not enough to raise any concerns. I also briefly rode a L yelli screamy yesterday, it definitely felt different than my Honzo. As far as recommending sizes goes, i would really encourage test riding before making an order. I kind of bought mine on a whim, but i am happy with the meduim. My previous SS is an older skid mark brown 20 inch karate monkey which is a big frame. Heres a rundown of my build:
    Chris King/Stans Flow tubeless front & rear
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4 & 2.25
    Thompson stem and laid back post
    WTB saddle
    TBar 30 handlebars
    FSA headset
    E13 the Hive cranks and BB (some DH model) & 32 tooth chainring w/ spot brand bash
    22 tooth Surly cog
    Avid Elixir 1 brakes
    Stock Kona grips which are already worn

  18. #168
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    Looks great! What fork do you have on there?

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  19. #169
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    Oh yeah I forgot to list the fork. Its the stock Rock Shox Revelation 120. On my ride today i was thinking of how the Canfield felt different that my Kona. The Canfield kind of reminded me of being on a full squish DH bike that is well into its sag. I think the Kona feels more upright. Im going to move more headset spacers to the top of the stem in order to achieve a lower the handlebar height. Setting the Honzo up is still a work in progress but it sure is a hoot to ride! For some reason when im riding singlespeed i just want to keep going. Twice now in the past few weeks ive done 2 rides in one because im having so much fun and i just seem to have extra energy with the more efficient singlespeed setup. Happy riding from Az.

  20. #170
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    I just ordered the Honzo 20"! This will be my first 29er.
    I'm jumping straight into the deep end! I went about this against all the common wisdom for buying a bike. I haven't tried the bike nor have I ever been on a 29er!
    Hopefully everything works out in my favour.

    The bike is stock.
    But I do think I will be trying to source a 28T ring so that my legs and head won't explode while going up hill. I am hoping that the stock Gravity StepUp crank has granny ring inserts on the spider and that by putting a chainring in that spot won't mess the chainline up too much. I guess I could use spacers on the BB. I am also going to install a Blackspire Granny God bash when I do get a 28T ring.
    By doing this I probably won't be able to run a proper chain guide unless it is modified somehow. Or I could just shorten the chain and get a short cage RD to take up the slack in the chain.

    I also have a Reverb which will be put onto the Honzo.

    I'm excited to see how this experiment turns out!
    I built up a 26" hardtail last season from a frame that I had kicking around for several years and was reminded of how fun it was to ride a hardtail. Although, it did have a granny ring. That is really my only big worry about riding the Honzo in my area because it is only a single ring. There are lots of long straight up climbs and every year at the start of the bike season I struggle even with a granny gear! But the price of the Honzo was sweet so I couldn't pass it up!

    I was told that I should have the Honzo sometime by the end of next week. I'll post pics once I get the bike built up. Unfortunately I won't be able to ride it seeing as where I live is still solidly in the grips of Winter. There's still well over a meter of snow in the valley!

    Mmmmm, new bike!!

  21. #171
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    My build

    My Honzo arrived this morning! I spent the afternoon building it up.

    Size: 20"
    Spec:
    Stock except for a few swapped parts - (Canadian stock - not sure if the bike is specced differently in other countries)
    Chromag OS bar
    X9 RD
    X7 shifter
    Reverb seatpost
    Time Atac pedals (waiting on CB Mallet 2 to arrive)
    ODI Rogue grips

    Rider stats: 6'6", 250lbs geared up (I went with the regular 20" rather than the 20"L because of how and where I ride. I'm not into being super stretched out on a bike if I am planning on jumping, dropping and riding stunts on this bike.)

    Not sure about weight. I'd guess that it is somewhere in the mid to high 30lbs range.

    I changed out the shifter/RD because the stock Shimano Alivio shifter pod could not be moved outboard of the brake lever. This led to me having to move my hand inward a fair distance to change gears.

    I was looking to change up the 32T chain ring but when I pulled the bike out of the box I saw that the Gravity Step Up crank does not have any inserts to bolt a granny ring on it. Also the ISIS BB wouldn't have been able to have been spaced out properly for the chain line.
    If I find myself pushing this bike up hill more than riding it I'll look into buying a different crankset and BB to allow me to install a smaller chain ring with the proper chain line spacing.

    The stock Avid Elixir 1 front brake needs to bled. After adjusting the throw on the lever several times it still ends up having way more throw than I like. So a bleed it needs!

    I've only had a chance to ride it around the neighbourhood. And.... it rides like a.... bike!
    This is my first ever time on a 29er and I was kinda expecting rainbows and unicorns to appear once I started pedaling it! Oh well, I guess you can't really believe all the hype you read on the interwebz!
    I'm still very excited to get this bike out on the trails because it is a brand new bike and it is a style of bike that I've never ridden before. I just have to wait for the trails to melt out!

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p4134711.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p4134712.jpg
    Last edited by RideEverything; 04-13-2012 at 08:15 PM.

  22. #172
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    Nice! Should be a great bike for whistler. Wanna take me on a tour when I head your way this summer? I've never been.

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    2016 Honzo Ti SS
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  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Nice! Should be a great bike for whistler. Wanna take me on a tour when I head your way this summer? I've never been.
    Sure, I'll show you around. Message me closer to your visit date and we can organize something.

    I am not an epic XC kinda rider. So, if that is what you're looking for you're going to have to find someone else to show you around. Straight up I'll tell you that I refuse to ride Comfortably Numb again! It was worth riding the trail but I don't need to ever do it again!

  24. #174
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    Initial Impressions

    I've had a couple of short rides on the Honzo so take what I have to say with a grain of salt.
    This is my very first time ever riding a 29er!

    My first ride was into town on the road and paved multi-use trails. About 10km each way. The thing I noticed was that it was very easy to run out of gears. This wheel size makes it easy to go faster on smooth terrain (paved).

    The second ride I did was out on a trail closest to my neighbourhood. Only about a third of the trail was dirt/rideable and the rest was under about a half meter to meter of snow.
    While riding the dirt portion of the trail I did notice what is always stated in the forums/discussions about 29ers, that the bigger wheels smooth out the bumps.
    As for climbing the bike seemed to have more traction even with some portions of the trail being slick. I also found it much easier to plow through the deep snow where I think a 26" would have become stuck.
    On the more open sections of trail it was easy to keep the speed up. A very similar feeling to when I was riding on the road.

    But I'm not sure if any of these observations are because of the 29" wheel size or because of what I've read and expected how this wheels size should ride. More time on the bike will stop me from super-over-analyzing how the ride feels and just ride the bike!
    Obviously I've only had a very short time on this bike so far and these are just my initial impressions.

    Here are some pics of the bike at rest while out on my "trail ride".
    The section of trail that was clear isn't very tech nor does it have much elevation change. However, it was very fun to get out on dirt on a brand new bike after being off a bike for 6 months!
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imag0623.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imag0625.jpg Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imag0627.jpg

    I'm planning to go to Squamish, where the trails have been rideable for quite some time, for a proper ride at the end of the week. Maybe with this ride I'll be able to tell if the 29er is just hocus pocus or it'll actually give me real bike super powers !

  25. #175
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    Just built up the Honzo on Friday and had two great rides over the weekend.



    Build:
    18" Honzo
    Marzocchi 44 micro ti
    Sun Ringle Chargers
    WTB Bronson tires
    Sunline bar and stem
    Formula the One brakes
    x7 shifters and cranks
    x9 rear der.
    Blackspire stinger e-type chainguide with XT front der.
    XT cassette
    Chromag moon saddle
    Straitline pedals
    Last edited by Mad-Duck; 04-16-2012 at 07:02 PM.

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad-Duck View Post
    Blackspire stinger e-type chainguide with XT front der.
    So, it can be done!
    I was thinking of setting an FD up exactly like this!

    Could you post some close-up pics of the Stinger-E where the FD is bolted on?
    Does the FD come into contact with the rear tire at all?
    What are you using as a cable stop on the seat tube for the FD? (I can't tell from the picture)
    What BB do you have and what spacers, if any, are you using to sort out the chain line?

    I was told by the Kona Tech support on the Konaworld site that it was impossible to run an FD how you have it set up!

  27. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    So, it can be done!
    I was thinking of setting an FD up exactly like this!

    Could you post some close-up pics of the Stinger-E where the FD is bolted on?
    Does the FD come into contact with the rear tire at all?
    What are you using as a cable stop on the seat tube for the FD? (I can't tell from the picture)
    What BB do you have and what spacers, if any, are you using to sort out the chain line?

    I was told by the Kona Tech support on the Konaworld site that it was impossible to run an FD how you have it set up!
    I'll try to remember to get some closer pics later.

    I can't slam the wheel with this setup, but I can get it to about 16.5" while still leaving about a 1/4" of clearance from the body of the FD. The side lugs are fairly close to the cage of the FD with about 1/8" gap.

    I'm using an axiom cable stop, but problem solvers should have some that would work too.

    The bb is the one that came with the X7 cranks. I can only use the one spacer on the drive side with these cranks. Any more spacers and I can't get the cranks on tight without seizing them up. Because of that I had to take a belt sander to the chainguide plate and file down the granny gear bolts to have enough space between the chainguide and cranks. With Shimano cranks you could probably avoid all that.

    Also, the stinger guide is meant for up to a 40t chain ring, but the honzo won't allow a ring that big. With my chain line a 38t wouldn't fit either. With a 33t ring and a 36t bash guard, the derailleur was too high up and caused some chain rubbing on the front derailleur, so I drilled new holes and cut off the extra part of the guide.

    Everything works quiet well now and it makes the Honzo a much more capable trail bike for long rides.

  28. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad-Duck View Post
    Just built up the Honzo on Friday and had two great rides over the weekend.



    Build:
    18" Honzo
    Marzocchi 44 micro ti
    Sun Ringle Chargers
    WTB Bronson tires
    Sunline bar and stem
    Formula the One breaks
    x7 shifters and cranks
    x9 rear der.
    Blackspire stinger e-type chainguide with XT front der.
    XT cassette
    Chromag moon saddle
    Straitline pedals
    Nice build!...impressive work with that front der.... I like the white rims and the white bashguard - cool and original...

    Are you running 140mm on that Marzocchi?

  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBizzie View Post
    Nice build!...impressive work with that front der.... I like the white rims and the white bashguard - cool and original...

    Are you running 140mm on that Marzocchi?
    Thanks! Yup, they're at 140mm.

  30. #180
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    Yep those white rims look nice. Funny because i was just thinking the other day i should have gone with white Flows....

  31. #181
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    Oh look, a rainbow. Let's find that pot o' gold!


    No gold....


    ...but that'll do just fine!
    Trailwrecker at large

  32. #182
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    Ordered an 18" a few days ago, should be here in about a week or so. Super stoked on this bike since it will be my first 29er
    Already gotten a few things to replace once the bike gets here but it will stay mostly stock until I replace parts as they break/wear out.
    *UPDATE* Just got a call from the shop I ordered one through that it's here, just need to go pick it up and throw it together
    Last edited by Singlespeed McGee; 05-02-2012 at 08:47 PM.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  33. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad-Duck View Post
    Just built up the Honzo on Friday and had two great rides over the weekend.



    Build:
    18" Honzo
    Marzocchi 44 micro ti
    Sun Ringle Chargers
    WTB Bronson tires
    Sunline bar and stem
    Formula the One brakes
    x7 shifters and cranks
    x9 rear der.
    Blackspire stinger e-type chainguide with XT front der.
    XT cassette
    Chromag moon saddle
    Straitline pedals
    I have been working on perfecting a similar setup after being dis-satisfied with my hammerschmidt project...

    What did you do to reinforce the Stinger to the seat tube of your bike? Under shift loads to the big(ger) ring I find there is a lot of flex (e-type stinger is meant to be hard-mounted to E-type mount on frame).

    Cheers,

    -D

  34. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewM View Post
    I have been working on perfecting a similar setup after being dis-satisfied with my hammerschmidt project...

    What did you do to reinforce the Stinger to the seat tube of your bike? Under shift loads to the big(ger) ring I find there is a lot of flex (e-type stinger is meant to be hard-mounted to E-type mount on frame).

    Cheers,

    -D
    I didn't do anything to reinforce it. It had a little bit of flex before I cut it and drilled new holes to lower it, but it didn't seem to affect shifting. Now the holes are only about 1-2cm above the iscg tab and the bottom of the FD rests right on one of the tabs. It really doesn't have enough leverage to flex the backplate now. Even if it does flex, it would barely be able to move at all and shouldn't affect shifting in any noticeable way.

    Have about 20 hours on it so far and everything's been good. No chain rubbing in any of the gears.








  35. #185
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    That's sweet. I see the flex (ISCG'05 plate flexing) in the work stand but I haven't finished the bike so no offroad test yet.

    I will follow up with some photos once I have had it on the trail.

    Thanks for sharing.

    -D

  36. #186
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    - 2012 Kona Honzo frame, 20 Long
    - 2012 Fox 34 Talas 29 140/110 FIT RLC
    - Cane Creek 40 headset cups
    - Sun Ringle Charger Expert wheelset, sans stickers
    - 2.4 Maxxis Ardent / 2.25 Maxxis Ardent, tubeless, Stans sealant
    - Shimano SLX M665 brakes 203/180mm rotors
    - Shimano SLX M665 crank
    - Shimano XT M770 BB
    - e.13 Guidering 32T
    - Shimano SLX M662 GS rear derailleur
    - Shimano HG-61 12-36 cassette
    - Shimano SLX M660 Rapidfire shifter
    - MRP Lopes SL chainguide
    - Chromag Fubars OSX, 780mm wide, 25mm rise
    - ODI Oury lock-on grips
    - Thomson X4 50mm stem
    - 2012 Rockshox Reverb 420x125mm post
    - WTB Deva SLT saddle
    - Point1 Racing Podium pedals
    - Chromag QR seat clamp
    - Chromag QR rear wheel skewer

    31.13 lbs

    Under 30 lbs would have been nice, but the last minute component changes were so worth it IMO (the Fox 34 and the Reverb post). And it's still lighter than my previous bike, so it's all good!





    Last edited by eurospek; 05-05-2012 at 06:11 PM.
    konahonzo

  37. #187
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    Beauty! About time too :P

    Sent from my SGH-I717D using Tapatalk 2
    2016 Honzo Ti SS
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon commuter
    2 bikes, 2 gears.
    www.mngnt.com

  38. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Beauty! About time too :P
    Thanks, can't wait to finally start riding this season.
    konahonzo

  39. #189
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    Nice crank choice! Only 40 grams more than XTs, but stiffer and much cooler looking

  40. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by howard619 View Post
    Nice crank choice! Only 40 grams more than XTs, but stiffer and much cooler looking
    Thanks, those are a few of the remains from my previous build. I reused the cranks, shifter, rear derailleur, and brakes. Can't go wrong with the SLX stuff!
    konahonzo

  41. #191
    Baby Bear is in the house
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    Awesome pics of a tres cool bike
    That blue really pops!
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  42. #192
    Chronic 1st-timer
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    Looking good, eurospek!
    Trailwrecker at large

  43. #193
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    Pardon the crappy pictures of a not as flashy Honzo, but here's mine.
    Specs
    Honzo 18" frame
    Stock build except for:
    XT Cranks
    SLX Brakes with 180mm IceTech Rotors/Pads front and rear
    Hope Pro2 EVO's laced to DT XM490 rims (built these myself )
    ODI Crosstrainer grips
    CrankBros Acid 2's

    I'm still waiting on a Sunline V1 flatbar in blue to arrive along with a gold E13 Guidering. I might also throw on a dropper post if I can find a good deal on one.
    The bike weighs in somewhere north of 31lbs at the moment but I still have yet to go tubeless which should drop some more weight. I'm not super worried about weight since I'd rather have a stronger bike than a lighter one.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-001.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-003.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-004.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-006.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-008.jpg  

    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  44. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewM View Post
    I have been working on perfecting a similar setup after being dis-satisfied with my hammerschmidt project...

    What did you do to reinforce the Stinger to the seat tube of your bike? Under shift loads to the big(ger) ring I find there is a lot of flex (e-type stinger is meant to be hard-mounted to E-type mount on frame).

    Cheers,

    -D
    I messed around with the E-Type stinger, but without a backing clamp I wasn't happy with the stiffness under Granny-Big (2x10) shifts.

    Back to the drawing board and with a tiny bit of filing (derailleur clamp not frame) and an Axiom cable guide here is the finished product...

    This is with a production, Super Short Stay, frame with the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts and real 2.2 Purgatory tires. Lots of clearance for the front derailleur cage and clamp (photo doesn't show it, but there is more then on most duallies) and shifting is excellent with a 26t/38t combo up front.






  45. #195
    formerly shabadu
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    @ DrewM, what didn't you like about the Hammerschmidt setup?

  46. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by flowtron View Post
    @ DrewM, what didn't you like about the Hammerschmidt setup?
    I -LIKED- the instant shifting (once I got used to it), the excellent ground clearance, the sound (yeah I know, but I did) and actually the mechanics of the Hammerschmidt.

    I -didn't like- the 22t-36t jump (I like the 26t-38t of my XTR 2x10 but I wouldn't run a bigger jump then that), the weight penalty (huge compared to XTR), and the drag.

    ...

    I've heard lots of theories about the drag (that it is mainly a perception from the big jump etc) but at the end of the day I pedal a bit behind my BB and tend to turn bigger gears at a slower cadence (spend a lot of time on a singlespeed) and for me the drag was demoralizing.

    If I had a bike that I was granny-ringing up a hill and then then ripping down on the Hammerschmidt would be an easy choice. For my riding it would not be recommended.

    -D

  47. #197
    Bnerd
    Reputation: RideEverything's Avatar
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    An Issue!

    I've completely destroyed the freehub only after 3 weeks of riding!
    It is the stock wheelset.
    I haven't pulled it apart to see exactly what has happened but my educated guess is I've sheared the palls off of the freehub body.

    I realize the wheelset isn't very high end, however, I expected the freehub to last at least until the middle of the summer!
    I'm a big guy so I know I generate a lot of torque through the drivetrain. And, I do expect to have to replace a freehub at some point in the middle of my riding season. But, this is ridiculous!
    This is the shortest length of time I've ever had on a bike before having a freehub blowup on me!

    Hopefully Kona can sort me out without too much trouble.
    We'll see!


    Other than that I've been really enjoying the bike!
    The single ring up front is definitely making me stronger and changing how I ride/climb the trails. Although, at times I still wish very much for a granny ring!

  48. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I've completely destroyed the freehub only after 3 weeks of riding!
    It is the stock wheelset.
    I haven't pulled it apart to see exactly what has happened but my educated guess is I've sheared the palls off of the freehub body.
    The stock Shimnao HG61 12-36 cassette calls for a stronger freehub than the spec'd Shimano M475 rear hub. This is from Shimano's tech doc:

    If the CS-HG61 cassette sprocket (12-36T) is installed onto a mountain bike, a large
    gear ratio between front and rear rings can be obtained so that the mountain bike can
    ride up steep slopes, but this will also place a heavy load on the rear hub. Shimano
    provides a rear hub which can provide enough strength and durability if using this
    cassette sprocket in combination with a front chainwheel set (22-32-44T).
    If using the cassette sprocket in combination with any hub other than the FH-M629/FHM529,
    the hub may become damaged. Check the Shimano website for the most up-todate
    information regarding compatible Shimano hubs. (SHIMANO – Cycling, Fishing, Rowing)
    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Other than that I've been really enjoying the bike!
    The single ring up front is definitely making me stronger and changing how I ride/climb the trails. Although, at times I still wish very much for a granny ring!
    Likewise, I'm missing the granny gear but definitely loving the 1x9. I don't miss the front derailleur (and the noise), but only on some climbs. Plus I've only had two rides so far, and I'm not really in the best of shape in the beginning of the riding season anyway. Give me a month of riding now that my brother is done with school and we'll be hitting up the trails in the weekday as well.

    And 1x9 definitely makes you an out of the saddle climber. On my previous TransAM, I was a spinner all the way to the top, using my 24T granny and 11-34 cassette. With the Honzo, seated climbing doesn't get me half way through the climb before I feel like keeling over lol. Out of the saddle isn't as much of a problem, you have to pick your line, and simply power to the top. And I don't get hung up on bigger ruts and logs anymore with these 29er wheels. The TransAM sucked in that department.

    I did switch the Shimano HG61 cassette for an XT M770 11-34 after I saw the HG61 digging into my aluminum freehub body on the Sun Ringle Charger Experts. But after the second ride, I had my LBS order a cromoly freehub body for my wheelset and I'm going back to the Shimano HG61 cassette. I'll gain some climbing gears, and a little bit over 150 grams.

    But overall, from the two rides I've had so far, I'm in complete love with my bike. Sizing is spot on, the Reverb is an excellent addition, and I'm loving the handling of the Honzo at 110mm on the Talas 34, quick and nimble, and easy to pop the front. I tired the 140mm setting and it's good for the bigger chunk on the trails, but for the majoirty of where I ride, it feels like too much (similar to the TransAM feeling I had rocking a Fox Float 36 at 160mm). Definitely use it on the downhills, a simple flick of the knob and it's wonderful stuff.
    Last edited by eurospek; 05-20-2012 at 09:20 AM.
    konahonzo

  49. #199
    Bnerd
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The stock Shimnao HG61 12-36 cassette calls for a stronger freehub than the spec'd Shimano M475 rear hub. This is from Shimano's tech doc:



    Likewise, I'm missing the granny gear but definitely loving the 1x9. I don't miss the front derailleur (and the noise), but only on some climbs. Plus I've only had two rides so far, and I'm not really in the best of shape in the beginning of the riding season anyway. Give me a month of riding now that my brother is done with school and we'll be hitting up the trails in the weekday as well.

    And 1x9 definitely makes you an out of the saddle climber. On my previous TransAM, I was a spinner all the way to the top, using my 24T granny and 11-34 cassette. With the Honzo, seated climbing doesn't get me half way through the climb before I feel like keeling over lol. Out of the saddle isn't as much of a problem, you have to pick your line, and simply power to the top. And I don't get hung up on bigger ruts and logs anymore with these 29er wheels. The TransAM sucked in that department.

    I did switch the Shimano HG61 cassette for an XT M770 11-34 after I saw the HG61 digging into my aluminum freehub body on the Sun Ringle Charger Experts. But after the second ride, I had my LBS order a cromoly freehub body for my wheelset (off the Sun Ringle Demon DH wheelset) and I'm going back to the Shimano HG61 cassette. I'll gain some climbing gears, and a little bit over 150 grams.

    But overall, from the two rides I've had so far, I'm in complete love with my bike. Sizing is spot on, the Reverb is an excellent addition, and I'm loving the handling of the Honzo at 110mm on the Talas 34, quick and nimble, and easy to pop the front. I tired the 140mm setting and it's good for the bigger chunk on the trails, but for the majoirty of where I ride, it feels like too much (similar to the TransAM feeling I had rocking a Fox Float 36 at 160mm). Definitely use it on the downhills, a simple flick of the knob and it's wonderful stuff.
    F'ed if I know how to multi-quote a post!

    Soooo.... Shimano/Kona didn't spec the bike properly? Is that what you're trying to tell me? Or are you calling me fat!!


    The 29er sized wheels definitely help on many levels when riding through chop and climbing.

    A few observations after two and a half weeks of solid riding in comparing my 26" HT to the Honzo 29" HT:

    Being that it is still the start of bike season for me I'm not sure if my observations are coloured by the amount of 29er evangelical reading I've done or if it is just me warming up my skills at the start of the season. I haven't seen any unicorns that are claimed once you throw a leg over a 29er!!

    I definitely find myself standing more for the tougher climbs. Although, I do find that I just pedal at a slower rate and I don't really need to stand until the trail gets really steep and/or tech. It is a different way of managing the climb without a granny.
    Also, I don't find myself spinning the rear wheel out anymore on tech climbs. I believe that this is because I'm pushing a harder gear than I used to run for those climbs. With the granny I guess there is easier torque involved which leads to being able to spin out the rear wheel on climbs. Don't get me wrong, it's not like I was spinning the back wheel out on every climb while I was in the granny. With the Honzo I am finding that I am definitely doing it less than I was previously.
    I do notice the bigger wheels do help carry momentum and speed much easier. This, with smoothing out the chop, helps the climbing and getting me into trouble on the descents!!

    The other thing I've noticed and that I've mention in previous posts is that the larger wheel size smooths out the trail. This leads me to picking lines on the HT that I would normally reserve for a FS bike! I am getting spanked in those line choices because of the speed I am carrying. I am then reminded harshly that I am still on a HT!

    Another thing that is taking a little getting used to is the low BB height. I am having way more crank-end/pedal strikes. However, the strikes aren't destroying my flow of the trail. (The pedal strike complaint thing, in general, really makes me wonder about the skill of the riders complaining!)
    That being said, I am starting to wonder if I can up the travel on the Revelation to 140mm from 120mm to help out with raising the BB height. Also, I think I "might" need more travel because I am starting to become more confident/aggressive with pushing the bike into more gnarlier lines. Or I could adjust the air pressure in the fork and deal with it that way!

    Ahhh, bike nerdery!

  50. #200
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    Standing more is a good thing

    I've been doing it for the last 2 years and initially lost speed on timed climbs, but after a few months my body traded spinning/cardio for power and big gears. Now I'm beating my old times with less training and overall fitness (due to laziness/new baby etc). So I'm convinced it's a better MTBing position. Another benefit to standing is you can slam your post down to the frame, since it's not used anymore, and attain a better attack position for the DH.

    I recently tried a longer stem (70mm vs 50mm) and could take tight switch back climbs better, but didn't realize I was hurting my climbing power. I know that seems counter intuitive, but standing you can put more power to the pedals with a short stem (think of a deadlift where you keep the weight away from your body vs. closer to it). On the steeps you actually pull up on the bar alot to generate power. It's also easier to put more weight down to push the pedal over.

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