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  1. #801
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by mitthew View Post
    I'm 6'0" and 33" inseem and ride L - it's perfect for me. Depends how big you like your bikes, my view (for what it's worth), there's a few tweaks you can make to a bike that's a bit small, but less you can do shrink a bike that's too big. Most bike fitting is based on seated position, but also bare in mind, you are likely to be standing more than you would on an XC bike. A few guys my size seem to for the 18".
    That's kind of my thought too but wanted some 'real world' advice. I'm not a big guy by any means (weight wise) so I am wondering if the XL would be too much bike. I'll try to have my LBS order both so I can give them a try.

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I am going to anyway since this is where all of the Honzo owners congregate...

    I've narrowed my decision down to a Honzo or a Trek Stache. Without being too biased (hehe), what do you guys think? Bike will be ridden primarily on singletrack - quite a bit of climbing and just as much downhill.
    Can't believe in 3 days no one has mentioned the obvious: The Stache has very long chainstays, especially compared to the Honzo. It's the short stays of the Honzo that make it so fun. Not even a comparison IMO.

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Would you guys recommend a L or XL for someone that is 6'1" w/ a 34" inseam (or so)? I am having a hell of a time deciding which one will work best for me. I rode a large at my LBS and it felt fine. They didn't have an XL so I have nothing to compare to.
    I'm 6'6" 36" inseam on a 20L (which I'm assuming is the same as XL in 2013). The TT of the XL is quite long (26"), so unless you have a very long torso (which probably isn't the case if you have a 34" inseam), I'd stick with L.

  4. #804
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    2013 Honzo MRP 1x Issue

    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??
    Rollin just to keep on rollin'. I don't want to leave this heaven so soon. - Mark Lanegan

  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??

    BB mounted guides are a huge pain. I suggest that you make use of those wonderful ISCG tabs you have a go with a proper guide. I run my bike as a 1x9 and the extra drag that you get with a full chain device is not noticeable while pedaling. I can notice it when my bike is in the repair stand and I am turning by hand, but it's not too bad at all.

    Also a full guide makes it very hard to drop a chain if it is set up properly. I haven't had a chain come off my bike in over 2 seasons of riding on a full guide set up.

    MRP also just came out with this guide for 2013. It's basically a Mini G2 without the lower retention. Check it out. Mountain Racing Products home of MRP, White Brothers, Kreitler, Tamer, and Power Grips | AMG

  6. #806
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??
    I'm currently running my Honzo 1x10 with a Jump Stop and outer bash. Works like a charm. Wasn't into the full-on clunky chainguide system that came with the bike, but then I don't drop anything over a couple feet in height.

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  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Any of you fellow Honzo riders running a BB mount MRP 1x setup?? Mine seems to be slipping every ride causing the BB drive side to loosen. I thought chain slap may have been the culprit so I removed a couple links. No dice, it's still slipping.

    I'm starting to think the MRP 1x BB mount is probably the wrong tool for the job. I obviously need some chain retention but I do a lot of pedaling with the Honzo so I would prefer to avoid the extra drag a full chainguide creates.

    I have a Jumpstop laying around so I'm debating whether I order a BBG Bash and call it a day or??

    I would also suggest using the ISCG tabs and at least that MRP guide JoshM linked.

    My Honzo is set up SS, but I used a Jumpstop and Bashguard on my AM 26" bike (1x10) for a bit and it sucked, I dropped chain quite a bit. Didn't really cover any big jumps or drops chain would just drop when tearing through rocky, rooty areas. That hasn't been an issue since I started using an e13 LG1+
    Mostly a rigid SS, sometimes a geared HT

  8. #808
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    Thanks for the replies guys. Any thoughts or experience with this:

    Blackspire Einfachx Chainguide 2013 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    I find the MRP 1x is good enough for chain retention it just shifts because of it's BB mounting.
    Rollin just to keep on rollin'. I don't want to leave this heaven so soon. - Mark Lanegan

  9. #809
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    Framesaver

    The fact that some of you are wasting your time worrying about your frames corroding because of rust really amuses me.

    The fact that some of you are going to the lengths of wasting your time using framesaver also makes me chuckle.

    It's clear that most of you young guns are only used to riding alloy frames and you assume that a steel frame is going to rust before your very eyes.

    Now I live in the UK where it has been known to rain (just a little bit)

    I have recently stripped my 1994 Chromoly Kona Cinder Cone (a real Kona) and there is no sign of any rust or corrosion.

    You people seriously need to relax and enjoy your bikes, worrying about minor details is only going to stress you all out

  10. #810
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by superstar1 View Post
    The fact that some of you are wasting your time worrying about your frames corroding because of rust really amuses me.

    The fact that some of you are going to the lengths of wasting your time using framesaver also makes me chuckle.

    It's clear that most of you young guns are only used to riding alloy frames and you assume that a steel frame is going to rust before your very eyes.

    Now I live in the UK where it has been known to rain (just a little bit)

    I have recently stripped my 1994 Chromoly Kona Cinder Cone (a real Kona) and there is no sign of any rust or corrosion.

    You people seriously need to relax and enjoy your bikes, worrying about minor details is only going to stress you all out
    I live in the Pacific NorthWet and keep my bikes in my garage which becomes a pretty humid place during Orygun's winters (but better than under a tarp outside). I've owned a zillion steel frames including an old ('86) Specialized Stumpy frame that I built into a beach bike (w/zerked BB, hubs, headset, pedals so I could pump out the saltwater by purging it with a grease gun after each beach ride). I literally rode this bike underwater for years. Eventually it did rust out, but the frame never actually failed, rather I tossed it before it crumbled from decay. When I finally saw evidence of extreme internal rust at the vent holes, etc. I knew it was time. Anyway like I said, it took years and this bike was ridden underwater in the surf -- salt water no less. Superstar1 is correct, steel is tough, especially heavy gauge steel and let's face it, our Honzos are made of thick stuff. That said, I sprayed my Honzo's interior with Framesaver as soon as I assembled the bike simply because I had a can lying around... doing so can't hurt. Once rust takes hold, there is no stopping it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
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  11. #811
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    Did any of you who build their Honzo from frame up perform this step when installing the headset? How to build a bike-part 1 of 12 - YouTube

    A friend of mine tells me it is usually not necessary on Kona frames, as they are pretty clean from factory. I'm not sure.

  12. #812
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    I didn't do it for either of the ones I built up, but you should inspect the heatube for any obvious material/paint that might make a headset seat incorrectly.

  13. #813
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    Oh okay, if there are small irregularities I could probably remove them using sand paper.

  14. #814
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    The bottom face of the headtube on mine was so out of square that the shop guy (the only shop in town that had the 43.95mm reamer, special ordered to do the job, no less) had to readjust the tension on the centering cone three times to get a good cut.

    Internal diameter was off by a bit too.

    Afterward, headset installation (I did that myself) was like a beautiful dream.
    Last edited by p4nh4ndle; 04-21-2013 at 02:12 PM.

  15. #815
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    Is that something I could visually verify if so much correction would be needed? Or do you really need those special tools?

  16. #816
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    You could check perpendicularity with a combination square.

    I used a vernier to get an idea of what the internal diameter was like.

  17. #817
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    Since everyone wants to know how much these things weigh: without using any super-light parts, mine (small frame) comes in at 28lbs even, with a tube in the front tire.

    Trail test and glamour shots tomorrow morning (you know, when the light is better).
    Last edited by p4nh4ndle; 04-23-2013 at 03:51 AM.

  18. #818
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    To lighten up the bike nerdery that is happening, here is an actual riding pic of the Honzo.
    First log ride drop of the season.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p4220035.jpg

    Now, back to the regular programmed bike nerdery.

    I'll add to the nerdery by telling you that I snapped my rear axle of my SunRingle Charger Pro. I was wondering why my rear tire was rubbing like crazy on my ride yesterday. Pulled the wheel off the bike to find I could remove the cassette and freehub with my hand!
    This is the first on any bike that I've managed to snap an axle!

  19. #819
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    Been there, done that. I've snapped an axle of a notubes HD (heavy duty) rear hub and just recently bent an axle of a notubes regular hub. I have upgraded to 12x142 and don't anticipate any future failures. BTW, the thru axle resists lateral forces a lot better. It's not scientific, but I have no tire rub marks so far from my 2.4 ardent in the rear. With a quick release, I could make it buzz the frame when taking hard corners or even when pedaling really hard on a switch back.

    All Honzo owners should upgrade to 12x142.
    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    To lighten up the bike nerdery that is happening, here is an actual riding pic of the Honzo.
    First log ride drop of the season.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P4220035.jpg 
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    Now, back to the regular programmed bike nerdery.

    I'll add to the nerdery by telling you that I snapped my rear axle of my SunRingle Charger Pro. I was wondering why my rear tire was rubbing like crazy on my ride yesterday. Pulled the wheel off the bike to find I could remove the cassette and freehub with my hand!
    This is the first on any bike that I've managed to snap an axle!

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    All Honzo owners should upgrade to 12x142.
    Guys, where did you get your 142 drops & how much?

    Thanks for the tip- going 142x12 on my other 29'er so this is good timing....

  21. #821
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    some parksin

    the exit off this log ride is not as big as the entrance (Frick Park)

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-log.jpg

    setup is still in flux. the gnarbar may go or stay, as may the 60mm stem (I could go for a 70mm in spite of possibly incurring eurospec's wrath)

    not that it's visible in this picture, but the rear hub is Chris King ISO 9spd laced with black 14-15g to a WTB Laser disc trail 29er rim set up tubeless with an SLX 675 brake caliper; cranks are truvative firex; seatpost is thompson (and it slips a bit >:[ )

    the bottom bracket is indeed low...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-log.jpg  


  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Guys, where did you get your 142 drops & how much?

    Thanks for the tip- going 142x12 on my other 29'er so this is good timing....

    You purchase them by calling Kona's store. I think they were $60 for the pair and the maxle lite could be found for another $60 online.

  23. #823
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    I managed to make some photo trickery with my sequence shots of the log ride.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-trashpano.jpg

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    You purchase them by calling Kona's store. I think they were $60 for the pair and the maxle lite could be found for another $60 online.
    I'd be all over it, if only the Sun Ringle Charger Expert 2011 were convertible. The only option right now for me is to get some Stan's 10mm endcaps and run a 10mm QR or DT Swiss axle since I read they fit the Sun Ringle hub. Another option would be to get a Hope Pro 2 Evo 28h rear hub and rebuild my rear wheel, but that's only the last resort if something does happen to my stock hub and Sun Ringle won't warranty. But in all honesty, last season I was much heavier and didn't notice much flex in the rear end running the Charger Experts and ditched the flimsy QR skewer for a Chromag QR. Maybe I'm not riding hard enough lol, but really my rear end feels just as still when I was on a set of Mavic EX721 36h laced to Hope Pro 2 hubs before this bike. And those were running a solid 10mm nutted axle too on the TransAM.

    As it's still raining like mad here in the Midwest, last minute upgrades have been ordered before I get it dirty for the first time soon, I'm going clipless!! Shimano AM45 shoes and 785 XT Trail SPD pedals en route. I will either love or hate this experience, but I'm hoping for the former.

  25. #825
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I managed to make some photo trickery with my sequence shots of the log ride.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	TrashPano.jpg 
Views:	216 
Size:	184.3 KB 
ID:	793212
    Very nice on the log exit/drop and the photo sequencing as well.

    =S
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

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