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  1. #3101
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaddwick25 View Post
    I think I was a bit confused on the Geo/Sizing of the bikes for the Aluminium vs Steel bikes. For 2016 the Geo for the bikes are different.Hopefully the Large frame will fit just right because I had a On-One Inbred XL 29er with the same Geo as the large Honzo Steel frame that I just order. Hopefully it works out.
    What stem length are you using on your Inbred? I ask because the Honzo it built around a 60mm stem although I ride a 40mm. It is of the long and slack geo class of bikes where the reach is going to be longer and the top tube in combination with a short stem will match the top tube and stem length of your old bike.

  2. #3102
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    You will be fine. They made the Toptube of the ST a bit longer this year, and it's on the long side to begin with. You might need a slightly longer stem as many people with Honzos are running ~50mm or less.

    I'm 6'7 on an XL, so 6'3 on an L won't be any worse.
    2016 Honzo Ti
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  3. #3103
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    What stem length are you using on your Inbred? I ask because the Honzo it built around a 60mm stem although I ride a 40mm. It is of the long and slack geo class of bikes where the reach is going to be longer and the top tube in combination with a short stem will match the top tube and stem length of your old bike.
    Good point about the stem, I thought about that as well. I plan on running a 50mm or 60mm on the honzo. I was running a 60mm on the inbred. And the seat angle is steeper on the honzo so that should enable me to run even a 40mm if I want to.

  4. #3104
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    Does nnyone know where I can get custom(red) decals for my kona frame. I would like to get red Honszo decals instead of the orange ones that come with the frame. I already got a response from kona and they said they don't make red decals for the Honzo.

  5. #3105
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    Try silkgraphics, I think that's the name.

  6. #3106
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickjuan View Post
    Large frame= 5'11-6'1 with proper stem length for frame size. Yer an XL no doubt.
    Um I don't think so bud. I am going of the sizing chart on Kona's website. And it says a Large frame will be just fine. Plus the Geometry is pretty similar to my old XL frame steel hardtail. sometimes a Large frame from 1 bike brand is an Extra Large in another brand.

  7. #3107
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Try silkgraphics, I think that's the name.
    Thanks.

  8. #3108
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickjuan View Post
    Large frame= 5'11-6'1 with proper stem length for frame size. Yer an XL no doubt.
    Quickjuan, you sound like a roadie.

    Large for Chaddwick is fine...not everyone wants a freight train wheelbase 29er....some of us like to size downn if on the cuspof 2 sizes because we actually ride singletrack as opposed to fire roads and pavement.

  9. #3109
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    Does anyone have any experience running a '16 Honzo with a 150mm fork?

    I've come upon a wicked deal on a 2014 Pike RCT3 Dual Position Air (150/130) but not sure if I should pull the trigger. If I do, I'll be joining the white fork crew!

  10. #3110
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaddwick25 View Post
    I just bought the last Large Steel frame in Canada.(or so my LBS tells me)
    Attachment 1063547
    Hah, I actually purchased the last medium that was available out West. I talked with a rep who said that they were selling steadily and that the next available batch wasn't till July/ Aug.

  11. #3111
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    I think a DP 130/150 would be a mistake...150 is just not necessary on this bike- or always leave it at 130.

    And if so, just get a 130 pike. Don't feel bad about passing on this deal my friend. some deals aren't worth it.

    130mm or 140mm is the sweet spot for this frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by H@L@ View Post
    Does anyone have any experience running a '16 Honzo with a 150mm fork?

    I've come upon a wicked deal on a 2014 Pike RCT3 Dual Position Air (150/130) but not sure if I should pull the trigger. If I do, I'll be joining the white fork crew!

  12. #3112
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    Got most of the parts, ordered a new seatclamp today and the 2.5 minion is somewhere in the mail.

    No brace on the small, kind of disappointed about that, even a little nub like on the 2k13 steel would have looked good.

  13. #3113
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    Quote Originally Posted by H@L@ View Post
    Does anyone have any experience running a '16 Honzo with a 150mm fork?

    I've come upon a wicked deal on a 2014 Pike RCT3 Dual Position Air (150/130) but not sure if I should pull the trigger. If I do, I'll be joining the white fork crew!
    Do it!

    I'm running my (white) Revelation at 140mm and it's good. Being able to switch between 130 & 150 would be ideal.

    The tapered headtube also reduces stack a bit too from the previous years, so 150mm will be fine. Will slightly raise the low BB height too.
    2016 Honzo Ti
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  14. #3114
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    I'm running a 160/130 pike, and I love it at 160, I rarely dial it down. And on the size debate, I'm 6'3" and the xl is perfect with a 50mm stem for me. This bike just simply smashes everything with confidence

  15. #3115
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickjuan View Post
    Ding ding ding ding!!! We have a winner^^^^^^^^. 6'3 = XL all day long. End of story.
    Everyone that is 6'3" doesn't have the same inseam length, reach, and there torso length is not the same and everyone who is 6'3" does have the same riding style either or ride the same trails (FYI I ride tight single track around the Toronto GTA). Are you 6'3"? I don't know why so emotionally invested in the size frame that I bought based on my riding needs.

  16. #3116
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickjuan View Post
    I'm not 6'3", i'm 5'11.5 and a size large is spot on with stock stem length. If anything it's cramped compared to any size large frame bike i've owned over the last 30 years riding mtb's and over 20 years making a living in the bike biz, with 20 of those years selling Kona. Have you ridden a large? You may be trying to convince yerself that it'll fit, but i'm telling you yer an XL. Yer 6' frickin 3" and whether it's inseam, torso, or reach or blah blah doesn't really matter in this case. Sure you can make it work, but it doesn't mean that it's even close to a proper fit. Just here to help.

    Signed

    Emotional Kona dealer
    So your telling me what is a proper fit for me when even the KONA website says the I can go with a large or extra large. When the last steel XL hardtail trail 29er has the same F*cking geo as the large kona that I just order. But your gonna tell me over a forum what is the size the proper size frame for me. And even though I have a steel 29er hybrid that I ride almost EVERYDAY which is smaller than the Large KONA frame that I just ordered in EVERY single way. Are you still gonna tell me that its too small?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-frame.jpg  


  17. #3117
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    TT is really an antiquated way to gauge how a bike will fit, measure the reach and stack instead. Not taking sides, no where near that height myself :P

  18. #3118
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-wfo1.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    TT is really an antiquated way to gauge how a bike will fit, measure the reach and stack instead. Not taking sides, no where near that height myself :P
    I did measure the reach and stack which are the most important thing when fiting a bike. I had a 1st gen Large WFO 9 and I was running that with a 70mm stem but I had to switch it to a 50mm because it was too long. Both the reach and stack on the Honzo are larger than WFO9.

    I sold my WFO 9 but I do have the parts left over for my Honzo build here is a pic of the bike with the 70mm stem VS the 50mm red stem that I had on it before I sold it. I also removed half of the spacers when I put on the 50mm stem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-wfo2.jpg  

    Last edited by chaddwick25; 04-15-2016 at 07:45 AM. Reason: Pictures

  19. #3119
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickjuan View Post
    Oh he'll take that large and have 2 feet of post showing with the saddle jacked way back a 70mm stem and a bunch of spacers under the stem to try to make it fit like an XL. Pics pleeze!
    I am done man with you, your just an arrogant prick.

  20. #3120
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    Shit, I wouldn't buy a bike from whatever shop quickjuan works at... I'm 5"11 and bought a medium Honzo AL/DL. Yeah, I probably should've gone for a Large, but I had my shop order both a Medium and a Large and the Medium just felt better. The bike was very noticeably more maneuverable underneath me than the large, which just didn't feel as fun and playful. Yeah, I figured I'd suffer a bit on the climbs because of it, but it'd make the descents more fun.

    The point is, what works for you or is considered "conventional" doesn't work for everyone. Jesus, man. If everyone rode the same as you, all bikes would be the same. People are different. If he's having fun on that bike, then awesome! I'm amazed that you say you're a dealer with 20 years experience but you don't recognize that...
    '16 Kona Honzo AL/DL

  21. #3121
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    Wow! This thread has come alive!

    For what it's worth I'm 6'6" and riding a 2012 Honzo in 20Regular sizing. Compared to the '16 ST Honzo the '12 is a hair under the L sizing. The biggest difference is the seat tube length.

    I'm doing fine riding it. I'm still running the original 60mm stem - I think that and the headset and fork are the only things original left on my frame.

    Could I have been fine riding the 20Long? Sure. Am I doing great riding the 20Regular? Hell yes!

    Entertaining discussion but let's have more action shots. Here's some pics from last weekend's ride in Squamish.






  22. #3122
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    Dude! How was Squamish? I wanna go up there so bad, but need to get my passport.
    '16 Kona Honzo AL/DL

  23. #3123
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylercall88 View Post
    Dude! How was Squamish? I wanna go up there so bad, but need to get my passport.
    It was money!

    The trail Man Boobs has had some work done to it and the Honzo felt right at home on it! It's one of the few "smooth" trails in the area that you can open it up and just carve down.

    I'm thinking of pulling the chainstays right out to the longest position because lately the bike doesn't feel all that planted when charging through the tech. I feel like a ping pong ball bouncing down the trail.

  24. #3124
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    First Ride

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20160326_132507.jpg

  25. #3125
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    I have a 2014 Honzo Frame(size large) almost complete (no brakes or shifter/derailleur) that I'm looking to sell, It is currently built up as single speed. Specs are.....
    - 2014 Green Kona Honzo Frame size Large (excellent condition, unridden since 2014)
    - Stans Flow EX Wheelset
    - Maxis Tires Ardent/High Roller
    - SLX Crankset
    - Race Face Next carbon seat post
    - 2015 Fox Float CTD OB 120(like new)
    - Race Face Atlas 60mm blue ano Stem
    - FSA Headset
    - New Shimano BB
    - Kona Branded Bars
    - Spank Brown/Plaid saddle

    Would like to hear some reasonable offers, only needs brakes to be finished into a SS, or gears too if you desire that route. Pics will come soon.
    -

  26. #3126
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickjuan View Post
    Name calling won't fix your poor frame size choice, but enjoy!
    Deleted...juanito has had a tough day, so i'm deleting my smart-ass remarks.
    Last edited by ledude; 04-15-2016 at 10:30 PM.

  27. #3127
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickjuan View Post
    You prolly wouldn't need to do that had you gone with the next frame size up more appropriate for your size :P
    Quickjuan, what's your shop name - got a website?

  28. #3128
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    Quickjuan, what's your shop name - got a website?
    Don't waste your time on this guy. Most of us come on this forum to enjoy and discuss mountain biking and share ideas. Quickjuan comes to the forum to brag out his so called 20+ years of experience in the mountain biking industry by using sizing charts by originally for roadies. He just wants to be apart of the conversation so he keeps saying stupid sh*t to get a reaction. There is no way someone with 20+ years of experience in the bike industry would say such nonsensical things. He is just not worth your energy.

  29. #3129
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    Cockpit is close to being done, the fork is getting old so I'm just going to cut it down for this frame. Whenever I buy something new I'll probably get a new fork aswell.

  30. #3130
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    DuPont is perfect Honzo terrain.Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-13048253_10156827329770174_5721926061090527484_o.jpg
    "Sometimes, you just got to buck up and huck it."

  31. #3131
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    Nice picture

    Anyone know where I can get 1mm spacers for bsa30?

  32. #3132
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    Orca, are you running a seat bag on a dropper? If so, have you noticed any wear on the stanchion?

  33. #3133
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Orca, are you running a seat bag on a dropper? If so, have you noticed any wear on the stanchion?
    I use the Backcountry Research Strap with a Tube Tarp. No issues. It actually doesn't touch the stanchion...

  34. #3134
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    AL 27.5+?! Damn that's awesome! I might have to buy that frame....
    '16 Kona Honzo AL/DL

  36. #3136
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    Jeez... If they don't put out an alu version that's singlespeed-capable, there will be no peace in this world.

  37. #3137
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    Is there anything about the material choice that's the reason for the alu honzo not using the same kind of dropouts as the steel/ti?

  38. #3138
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    Yes -- steel is much harder, so sliders can be built right in. Alu needs a steel (or similar material) insert or adjustable ends. Trek's "stranglehold" drops are excellently made this way.

    Though, sliders aren't the only way to make a singlespeed-capable frame; a BB30 can take an eccentric BB, which would be okay.

    Alternatively, one could try a half link, but the chain would wear and drop eventually.

  39. #3139
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    Makes sense, thanks for enlightening me

  40. #3140
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    Or just use a chain tensioner. It's a bit lame to put one on a high-end build but they do work really nice.

  41. #3141
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    I hope I or anyone else hasn't asked this yet or I'll look pretty damn dumb. Is there a way to increase the travel on the RockShox Revelation RL that comes stock on my 2015 Honzo? It seems like the sag markings indicate so but just wanted clarification.

  42. #3142
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    Slow day at work...

    @Harry: Yes! You can swap out the air shaft for the size you want... within reason. Usually about $30 US.

  43. #3143
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    Kona honzo steel 2016

    Here are the pics of my frame that I picked up today. I see a little rust in my BB Shell. Do you guys suggest cleaning it out before install my BB or just leave it ?. If so what do you recommend clean it ?. (I am thinking about using good old WD-40). The rust is in the picks.

    Also one of the screws is missing from the dÚrailleur mount should I be worried?.

    Thanks for your answers in advance guys.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p_20160419_181302_sres.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p_20160419_181346_sres.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p_20160419_181045_sres.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p_20160419_175540.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p_20160419_181102_sres.jpg  


  44. #3144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Mackenzie View Post
    I hope I or anyone else hasn't asked this yet or I'll look pretty damn dumb. Is there a way to increase the travel on the RockShox Revelation RL that comes stock on my 2015 Honzo? It seems like the sag markings indicate so but just wanted clarification.
    RockShox Revelation 130 Air Shaft, Solo Air Revelation,

    I just did this for my 27.5 Revelation as part of a rebuild, peace of cake.

  45. #3145
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    Upset

    Quote Originally Posted by chaddwick25 View Post
    Here are the pics of my frame that I picked up today. I see a little rust in my BB Shell. Do you guys suggest cleaning it out before install my BB or just leave it ?. If so what do you recommend clean it ?. (I am thinking about using good old WD-40). The rust is in the picks.

    Also one of the screws is missing from the dÚrailleur mount should I be worried?.

    Thanks for your answers in advance guys.
    I would throw some Framesaver in the whole interior of the frame, just good practice. Out of curiosity, where did you get your frame? As far as I know everyone has been sold out for a while, im still a month or more out on my Bikeman order

  46. #3146
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    Are the frames supposed to come with anything to mount the line for a stealth post?

    Mine didn't have anything extra in the box other than some clips and zipties, but in alot of the pictures I see some extra hardware for it to mount on the extra screwholes.


    Quote Originally Posted by chaddwick25 View Post
    Also one of the screws is missing from the dÚrailleur mount should I be worried?.
    Do you mean the nut on the threaded rod? They're there to help secure the position if you run anything other than the shortest chainstay possible. So if you slam the chainstay you can just unthread the rods and keep them somewhere safe incase you want to play with longer chainstays.

    As for the rust I'd get a brush and remove it. You should look into protecting the inside of your frame with some kind of oil or framesaver. I know some use linseed oil.

  47. #3147
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    I found that other screw but I will take both of them off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p_20160419_192220.jpg  


  48. #3148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Are the frames supposed to come with anything to mount the line for a stealth post?

    Mine didn't have anything extra in the box other than some clips and zipties, but in alot of the pictures I see some extra hardware for it to mount on the extra screwholes.




    Do you mean the nut on the threaded rod? They're there to help secure the position if you run anything other than the shortest chainstay possible. So if you slam the chainstay you can just unthread the rods and keep them somewhere safe incase you want to play with longer chainstays.

    As for the rust I'd get a brush and remove it. You should look into protecting the inside of your frame with some kind of oil or framesaver. I know some use linseed oil.
    Thanks I never had to deal with rust before on a frame.

  49. #3149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Are the frames supposed to come with anything to mount the line for a stealth post?

    Mine didn't have anything extra in the box other than some clips and zipties, but in alot of the pictures I see some extra hardware for it to mount on the extra screwholes.




    Do you mean the nut on the threaded rod? They're there to help secure the position if you run anything other than the shortest chainstay possible. So if you slam the chainstay you can just unthread the rods and keep them somewhere safe incase you want to play with longer chainstays.

    As for the rust I'd get a brush and remove it. You should look into protecting the inside of your frame with some kind of oil or framesaver. I know some use linseed oil.
    I got it from Cycle Solution in Toronto. I got the last large frame in Canada.
    They sold me Kona will have more in stock between June and August.

    Thanks for the advice.

  50. #3150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Are the frames supposed to come with anything to mount the line for a stealth post?

    Mine didn't have anything extra in the box other than some clips and zipties, but in alot of the pictures I see some extra hardware for it to mount on the extra screwholes.




    Do you mean the nut on the threaded rod? They're there to help secure the position if you run anything other than the shortest chainstay possible. So if you slam the chainstay you can just unthread the rods and keep them somewhere safe incase you want to play with longer chainstays.

    As for the rust I'd get a brush and remove it. You should look into protecting the inside of your frame with some kind of oil or framesaver. I know some use linseed oil.
    Is this the right type of linseed oil ?
    Recochem Linseed Oil Boiled | Canadian Tire

  51. #3151
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    2014 Kona Honzo For Sale

    For Sale- 2014 Kona Honzo size large
    Set up currently as single speed but easily converts to 10spd
    Needs a front brake rotor and caliper adapter. Has new 2015 fox float 120mm fork, new 2016 Shimano deore brake set
    Race face carbon seat post, stans flow ex wheel set slx crankset w/ new bottom bracket... $1000 or best reasonable offer
    Bike has not been ridden since 2014 and has 58 miles on it... Only damage to the frame are a few scuffs, very light at that.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-1.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2825.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2826.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2828.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2830.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2831.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2832.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2833.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2834.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2835.jpg  


  52. #3152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Collins View Post
    Slow day at work...

    @Harry: Yes! You can swap out the air shaft for the size you want... within reason. Usually about $30 US.
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffgicklhorn View Post
    RockShox Revelation 130 Air Shaft, Solo Air Revelation,

    I just did this for my 27.5 Revelation as part of a rebuild, peace of cake.
    Thanks for the quick answers!

  53. #3153
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    @quickjaun
    I'm mildly disappointed that you deleted all your recent posts. But, I really do understand why you might have done it. I've just recently had a drunken rant on FB that got me in trouble with my employer. So, I totally understand the deletion.
    I thought it was entertaining how you were poking the hornet's nest. Although, you were being a bit of a dick about it. It was still fun to read, though.
    I was going to quote your call out on my post because I thought it funny.

    Anyway, I've had a few rides on my OG Honzo with the chainstays pulled out to the longest. And, holy shit, does the bike feel good at speed through the tech! I really didn't think there'd be that much of a difference in ride feel to the bike but, damn, does the bike feel planted when charging through the chunder tech!
    The bike still feels snappy through the turns and it still manuals easy but, suddenly, it carries this guy solidly through root/rock infested trail at speed in substantially more control than ever before.

    I've been doing some reading and the trend for super short rear centres (chainstays) may have gone too far. Especially for tall folk.
    Now that I've pulled the chainstays out to their longest on the Honzo the bike has come alive when charging. Rather than trying to reign it in and hold on through the chop I can really let it go and point and shoot. And, I can also still smash corners.

    Maybe my riding style has changed since I first picked up the OG Honzo. But, I'm still loving riding this bike with the new setup.


    @chaddwick75
    I may not be the right person/bike nerd to be taking advice from but I've never done anything to my frame. I read everything about framesaver / anti-rust / prepping steel frames but literally did nothing to my 2012 Honzo from the day I got in April 2012.
    I live and ride in a temperate rain forest and my frame does have rust happening but it's surface rust. I just ride the shit out of my bike and if it dies because of rust I'm at the point now that it doesn't owe me anything. I personally believe that it's all just cosmetics. I take care of my bikes but don't fully nerd out on the care of my bikes.

    Take that info and do what you like with it.
    I think you should take a brush to the surface rust that's on your frame and liberally grease the threads and ride the eff out of the bike and not worry about it.

  54. #3154
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-eddy_honzo_titues-2731.jpg

    Anyone know wether or not frames come with the tabs to mount a stealth dropper cable on the downtube?

    Mine just has the screws.


    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post

    @chaddwick75
    I may not be the right person/bike nerd to be taking advice from but I've never done anything to my frame. I read everything about framesaver / anti-rust / prepping steel frames but literally did nothing to my 2012 Honzo from the day I got in April 2012.
    I live and ride in a temperate rain forest and my frame does have rust happening but it's surface rust. I just ride the shit out of my bike and if it dies because of rust I'm at the point now that it doesn't owe me anything. I personally believe that it's all just cosmetics. I take care of my bikes but don't fully nerd out on the care of my bikes.
    I partially agree, the frame doesn't need it to last a very, very long time; but some enjoy the aesthetics of not having rust on their bike :P

    I don't go completely overboard with the inner nerd either, but something as quick and easy as framesaver/oiling the frame before building it is something I can live with.

  55. #3155
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    Do any of you guys ride clipped in on your Honzo? I seem to lose my foot placement on trails with lot's of rocks and roots at speed.

  56. #3156
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    Yes, always clipped in. Lets med have more control og the vike and the pedalstrokes feel more efficient.

  57. #3157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Mackenzie View Post
    Do any of you guys ride clipped in on your Honzo? I seem to lose my foot placement on trails with lot's of rocks and roots at speed.
    I always ride clipped, for that exact reason. And pedaling efficiency, and not having to be concerned with where my feet are.
    2016 Honzo Ti
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  58. #3158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post

    Anyone know wether or not frames come with the tabs to mount a stealth dropper cable on the downtube?

    Mine just has the screws.




    I partially agree, the frame doesn't need it to last a very, very long time; but some enjoy the aesthetics of not having rust on their bike :P

    I don't go completely overboard with the inner nerd either, but something as quick and easy as framesaver/oiling the frame before building it is something I can live with.
    It is kind of hit/miss as to whether or not Kona includes the p-clips with the frame. The p-clips are fastened to the frame with the (2) bolts on the downtube non driveside (closer to the headtub) and also with the (2) bolts that secure the bottle cages...in total you would have (4) p-clips that get held in place with the (4) bolts noted above that allow the stealth hose to be routed/secured...probably easier to buy them from your local hardware store....

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-black_plastic_p_clips_parent.jpg

  59. #3159
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    Thanks, I PMed some people I know have the TI frame and it seems none of the ones who have replied so far got any clips. Kona only offered me email ping pong, not impressed by that in the slightest.

    I wasn't sure what the name was in English, so google didn't bring me much before I tried it with p-clip :P

    Going to order some asap aswell as running by a hardware store to see if I can find anything that matches.

  60. #3160
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    Harry, what shoes and flats are using? I ride Sombrios and 5.10s on straitline pedals. My feet very very rarely slip off or bounce off. Stealth rubber is for real.

    I have tried clip less but they scare me going downhill for some reason. I do use them on the road bike though.

  61. #3161
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Harry, what shoes and flats are using? I ride Sombrios and 5.10s on straitline pedals. My feet very very rarely slip off or bounce off. Stealth rubber is for real.

    I have tried clip less but they scare me going downhill for some reason. I do use them on the road bike though.
    Fiveten Impacts and Blackspire Sub4 pedals. It grips so good that if I go too fast through a rough section I lose my footing and its so sticky that I can't readjust. I end up having to scrub a lot of speed or stop.

  62. #3162
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    Can you get longer pins for your pedals? The straitline pins are crazy sharp and a decent length. I also try to use as few as possible so the weight of my foot spreads out less and is concentrated on each pin more.

  63. #3163
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Can you get longer pins for your pedals? The straitline pins are crazy sharp and a decent length. I also try to use as few as possible so the weight of my foot spreads out less and is concentrated on each pin more.
    The pins are pretty long. Way bigger than the pins on my Shimano Saints on my FS bike and I never have problems on those. I think you bring up a great point about using fewer pins. I'm gonna remove some pins before my next ride. May help me get my foot re-positioned in case I lose footing again.

  64. #3164
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    Anybody try fitting a Surly Dirt Wizard 27.5+ in their (2015 steel) Honzo?

  65. #3165
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    What about frame weight of the Honzo AL?

  66. #3166
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Can you get longer pins for your pedals? The straitline pins are crazy sharp and a decent length. I also try to use as few as possible so the weight of my foot spreads out less and is concentrated on each pin more.
    If you check the threading for your pedals you can screw whatever you want in there, your local hardware store should have myriads of lengths to choose from

  67. #3167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    If you check the threading for your pedals you can screw whatever you want in there, your local hardware store should have myriads of lengths to choose from
    True, grub screws will usually match up.

  68. #3168
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    Oh boy, did I do good today!

    2014 Factory 34 FLOAT w/ 140mm travel CTD, FIT. Unused and uncut for $400 CAD. Goodbye 120mm Sektor!

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-dsc_0227.jpg

  69. #3169
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    Quote Originally Posted by H@L@ View Post
    Oh boy, did I do good today!

    2014 Factory 34 FLOAT w/ 140mm travel CTD, FIT. Unused and uncut for $400 CAD. Goodbye 120mm Sektor!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Are you gonna upgrade the damper to FIT4? I heard its only gonna cost $150 CAD to do it.

  70. #3170
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaddwick25 View Post
    Are you gonna upgrade the damper to FIT4? I heard its only gonna cost $150 CAD to do it.
    I was actually checking that out tonight and think it'll be part of my future plans. This is my first Fox fork so I'll see how it plays out this summer.

  71. #3171
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    Quick question for anyone running a Reverb Stealth w/ connectamajig in a medium frame.

    I'm looking to purchase the new 2016 480mm version because it'll offer optimal riding height and drop. I've made all the right measurements and it looks like this post will fit perfectly. However, I'm worried that the connectamajig will put the hydraulic housing below the frame's stealth port. Could anyone toss me the measured length from the bottom of the post to the end of the connectamajig? Otherwise, any input and. or suggestions?

    Thanks!

  72. #3172
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    Quote Originally Posted by H@L@ View Post
    I was actually checking that out tonight and think it'll be part of my future plans. This is my first Fox fork so I'll see how it plays out this summer.
    I also just switched over from a sektor that was on my WFO 9. I picked this up at the PO today. Unfortunately its gonna be at least two weeks until I can ride it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p_20160424_020648.jpg  


  73. #3173
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    That's a nice deal on the Fox, you can sometimes get them on steepandcheap.com for around that price for anyone else who's looking. (It's an outlet for backcountry.com)

  74. #3174
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    Needing some advice from all you Honzo-heads out there. I have my first gen (2012) Honzo which I have loved since I bought it in 2012. I have done minimal upgrades to the components with exception of the bars, grips, seat dropper, etc. Now I want to replace the WTB rims with some lighter, but hopefully not too expensive ones. Any suggestions? Also, is it possible to go through axle on the back instead of the QR skewer?

    Thanks in advance,

    Derek

  75. #3175
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    I highly recommend the Roval Traverse Fattie. It's not a fat tire wheelset, despite the name, but it is wide.

    $600, 29mm inner width and under 1800g. I run 18-20psi without any problems.

    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...ttie-29/106122

  76. #3176
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    Quote Originally Posted by dzilla View Post
    Also, is it possible to go through axle on the back instead of the QR skewer?
    Yes, but you'd have to get a hold of a dealer, perhaps bikeman.com could help you out.
    Konas online store no longer shows those parts. I believe they were $30 for each side and then you'd need a maxle on top of that which is another $40-50.

  77. #3177
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    Regarding the guy who got a Fox 34, or anyone else who runs one: FYI, new FIT4 dampers are USD $200 straight from Fox, and they'll throw in new seals if you ask. I've done this for my 2012, and it's great, though I miss the old compression settings.

    But I think you were referring to the new offer from Fox to replace the air spring, for USD $100. That's a really good deal, and I'll be taking Fox up on it soon.

  78. #3178
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    So how is everyone liking running a 51mm offset on the honzos? I heard they recommend 46mm offset?

    Also, what travel are you guys running? I have a fox36 at 140 and wondering if its too long of a travel for the honzo?

  79. #3179
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    Quote Originally Posted by brotheronwheel View Post
    So how is everyone liking running a 51mm offset on the honzos? I heard they recommend 46mm offset?

    Also, what travel are you guys running? I have a fox36 at 140 and wondering if its too long of a travel for the honzo?
    If it's too much travel for you I will gladly do a trade with you for my 120 pike rc.

  80. #3180
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    Just want to say something about the Honzo... I have a 2014 Honzo running a Pike and mid spec components. This thing completely shreds trail up and especially down I raced a XC race on it this past weekend and got 3rd overall in Cat 2. In a race stacked with tons of Lightweight race rigs and dudes looking lean as hell I thought there is no way, but the coarse had steep rocky climbs and the weight of the honzo I think actually helped stay planted and kept traction and the descents the Honzo handled with ease. The coarse was 22 miles long with 3800' of elevation gain and the Honzo chewed it all up. F!@#ing Awesome bike!

  81. #3181
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    @brother: 51mm offset is great; running a 34 140mm and the stiffness of the fork matches the frame's own. I think 140 is perfect travel fit for me -- very aggressive riding, lots of rocks/roots, punchy and long climbs, etc...

    @maximo: Hell yeah! As long as the engine's good, the Honzo's frame's not too heavy. I regularly ride/race singlespeed against buds on ~20lb Ti and carbon whips, and hold my own happily. When I get smoked on a longer climb, it's not my bike's fault. BTW: carbon rims help a heap.

  82. #3182
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaddwick25 View Post
    If it's too much travel for you I will gladly do a trade with you for my 120 pike rc.
    Why not get a new airshaft? It's only a $30 or so part.

    Quote Originally Posted by brotheronwheel View Post
    So how is everyone liking running a 51mm offset on the honzos? I heard they recommend 46mm offset?

    Also, what travel are you guys running? I have a fox36 at 140 and wondering if its too long of a travel for the honzo?
    My pike is a 51mm offset 140mm, love it! I will try it at 130mm after my next rebuild though.

  83. #3183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Why not get a new airshaft? It's only a $30 or so part.



    My pike is a 51mm offset 140mm, love it! I will try it at 130mm after my next rebuild though.
    I run mine at 130mm 51 offset, way better than the stock set up and feels more balanced than the travel at 140.

  84. #3184
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    I have a question, noticed that my rear wheel (Flow Ex on Hope Pro 2 hubs) does not sit quite centered. Can I have done something wrong with the install or should I try and align it by tightening and loosening the spokes?

  85. #3185
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaddwick25 View Post
    I also just switched over from a sektor that was on my WFO 9. I picked this up at the PO today. Unfortunately its gonna be at least two weeks until I can ride it.
    Nice! I was planning to run a Pike myself but was hard pressed to find a good deal. I'm playing the waiting game myself because now I have to track down a conversion kit for my 20mm hub.

    Quote Originally Posted by Collins View Post
    Regarding the guy who got a Fox 34, or anyone else who runs one: FYI, new FIT4 dampers are USD $200 straight from Fox, and they'll throw in new seals if you ask. I've done this for my 2012, and it's great, though I miss the old compression settings.

    But I think you were referring to the new offer from Fox to replace the air spring, for USD $100. That's a really good deal, and I'll be taking Fox up on it soon.
    Yeah, I was a little confused by that. The air spring will be changed out in due time but it's good to know that the FIT4 damper is available as well. I'm gonna keep an eye on the forums to see if any threads related to the upgrade start popping up. I'd be interested to hear just how much of a difference these upgrades will make.

    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    Just want to say something about the Honzo... I have a 2014 Honzo running a Pike and mid spec components. This thing completely shreds trail up and especially down I raced a XC race on it this past weekend and got 3rd overall in Cat 2. In a race stacked with tons of Lightweight race rigs and dudes looking lean as hell I thought there is no way, but the coarse had steep rocky climbs and the weight of the honzo I think actually helped stay planted and kept traction and the descents the Honzo handled with ease. The coarse was 22 miles long with 3800' of elevation gain and the Honzo chewed it all up. F!@#ing Awesome bike!
    Hell yeah, man. I definitely think the Honzo could be a great weapon when ran in the right environment.

    To be honest, I thought I was slower the first few weeks I started riding my Honzo. Coming from 26" wheels and much more aggressive XC geometry, I felt like I lost a lot of playfulness on the trail and climbing just wasn't snappy. However, once I got use to throwing a bit more weight around and really trusting the roll over of the larger wheels, climbs have become a lot more efficient and I'm making up huge time on the downs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dines View Post
    I have a question, noticed that my rear wheel (Flow Ex on Hope Pro 2 hubs) does not sit quite centered. Can I have done something wrong with the install or should I try and align it by tightening and loosening the spokes?
    Is this on a '16 ST frame? If so, check your dropouts to see if the securing bolts have backed off. I had one side come loose during my first real ride and it cause the wheel to run a bit crooked. A bit of loctite and good torque cleared it up.

    If your dropouts are fixed, I'd check to see if your wheel is seated properly in the dropouts. If that seems fine, then move on to checking the wheel's dish.

    Good luck!

  86. #3186
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    Hello, maybe you can help me..
    do you think that a medium 2015 Honzo frame would be too long for 5,75 height ( 172cm )?. I could fit a 30mm stem to shorten the cockpit maybe.
    Here is the 2015 geometry chart
    KONA BIKES | 2015 BIKES | TRAIL 29" HT | HONZO
    I have found a good offer for a new unridden 2015 medium frame.

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    Question for those of you running 27+ on the 2015 or 2016 Honzo - do you think that a 3.0 tire would fit on the back with i35? I know HootBMX had mentioned that he tried the 3.0 trailblazers with his i45's and they were just barely rubbing. If I run those 3.0's on an i35 rim instead, do you think the 3.0 would fit back there?

  88. #3188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jingleman View Post
    Hello, maybe you can help me..
    do you think that a medium 2015 Honzo frame would be too long for 5,75 height ( 172cm )?. I could fit a 30mm stem to shorten the cockpit maybe.
    Here is the 2015 geometry chart
    KONA BIKES | 2015 BIKES | TRAIL 29" HT | HONZO
    I have found a good offer for a new unridden 2015 medium frame.
    You're righ between sizes so it's just going to come down to your personal preference... I am 5'7 and I am happy with my size small 2015. At 5'7, I am always right between small and medium and I pretty much always preferred to go small. I know people that are even a little bit shorter than me but still prefer medium. Like I said, personal preference. What kind of trails do you ride?

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    I'm 170 and went with a small, a medium would have worked fine aswell; but personally I prefer the 'playfulness' the smaller size offers.

    You could go either way depending on availability and what kind of ride you want, the difference between stability (medium) and playfulness (small) wouldn't be that big but noticable.

  90. #3190
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    thank you SB666 and Vegard..
    I have always had frames that are low with longish top tubes ( for my height I mean) around 585mm and 590mm..using stems between 55 and 35mm I am sure that I would not go shorter than that but I never had a frame that long as a medium Honzo.. 610mm looks quite long for a medium indeed..but it looks that more and more brands are going this way: short seat tubes, low standover and long reach..maybe we all will adapt to this trend?As I said I could try to use a very short stem but I dont really know what I could expect from a frame that has really short stays and long reach.. Personally I like bikes that have short stays and normal to long top tubes, so I have both a flickable bike that I can wheele easy over obstacles but have long tt so I dont suffer too much to keep the wheel down on the ups.

  91. #3191
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    @Jingleman, are you dead set on the 2015 med frame? I ask because I have a 2013 small with a CC40 headset for sale.

  92. #3192
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    The '13 has such a nice colour irl, I regret selling mine alot!

  93. #3193
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    It does, I love the Brownzo! But a medium is a better fit for me and I dig the raw of the 2016 steel.

  94. #3194
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    I pimped her out a bit with stickers and was running single speed for a bit. Gears are back on now, but thought I post some glamour shots.

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    New guy - First post here at MTBR. ...so I am looking to do a MTB build over the course of the next few months and have started looking very hard at the Honzo. I took a ST with a 140 Pike for a very short spin and came back amazed at how damn much fun it was to ride. I will be riding New England trails, nothing to downhill crazy just tearing it up with co-workers and friends. Daytrips, after work rides... typical Northern New England woods and exploring. I have been told I am crazy to go with a Honzo as the lack of rear suspension and the bikes geometry will suck comfortwise after anything more than an hour.

    What are your thoughts on this as ones ONLY mountain bike? Like I said I thought the bike was a blast. Wheelies, bunny hops... it just made me feel like a 12 year old on a BMX again. That being said... those qualities - do they make this bike kind of a one trick pony? Or am I over thinking this?

    Lastly its seems most on this thread have the ST version. I love the look and can have one in my hands by the end of May OR I can take home an AL/DL frame now. The AL has BOOST, is lighter... I even kind of dig the purpleISH color. Why does it seem so few are doing AL builds?

    Any input is greatly appreciated. I think I have pretty much made my mind. (I took a several year old SC Tallboy for a ride today... it did absolutely nothing for me. Even though my mind was telling me it should be a better bike for me.

    One Trick Pony? Y or N

    Good for the kind of riding I will be doing?

    AL/DL or ST?


    Thanks Again! I'll be watching for and appreciate any responses.

  96. #3196
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    You sir, might be new to mountain bike but you are making a truly sensible decision going with the honzo st at 140.

    I agree wholeheartedly, that it s a killer setup. So much so that I didn't ride my full suspension bike when I got the honzo...

    Don't even consider the alu, steel and titanium are where ts at with a solid durable hardtail...

    Great bike to own if it's your only one...it's super versatile and crazy fun.

    Btw, you can pretty much have 2 bikes with a steel honzo. Buy 1 29er wheelset, and 1 27.5plus wheelset...makes for 2 very different ride characteristics. The plus wheelset almost makes the honzo a 1-1.5" rear suspension with the extra high volume tires.

  97. #3197
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    I have been told I am crazy to go with a Honzo as the lack of rear suspension and the bikes geometry will suck comfortwise after anything more than an hour.
    I've never noticed the ST having a geo that would suck after an hour, my longest ride is 6hrs up and down a mountain and the bike performed great all the way.

    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    What are your thoughts on this as ones ONLY mountain bike? Like I said I thought the bike was a blast. Wheelies, bunny hops... it just made me feel like a 12 year old on a BMX again. That being said... those qualities - do they make this bike kind of a one trick pony? Or am I over thinking this?
    My TI is my only MTB currently and the bike it replaced was a full suspension Devinci Atlas with a 140mm fork.


    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    One Trick Pony? Y or N

    Good for the kind of riding I will be doing?
    Definitely NO, you can pretty much do anything you want with a Honzo.
    It won't be the best at XC, but it will destroy an XC bike on anything harsher than a gravel road.


    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    Lastly its seems most on this thread have the ST version. I love the look and can have one in my hands by the end of May OR I can take home an AL/DL frame now. The AL has BOOST, is lighter... I even kind of dig the purpleISH color. Why does it seem so few are doing AL builds?
    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    AL/DL or ST?
    ST/TI will offer a smoother ride quality due to the properties of the metal, AL is stiff and provide a harsher ride. That's in part why people get ST and TI over AL.

    AL doesn't have adjustable dropouts so you lose some of the customizing options.

  98. #3198
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    I'll echo the two other responses you've gotten... Steel with a 140 fork is fantastic. I've been riding my Honzo around New England for the past few years and it has never let me down. Certainly if you go to Highland and hit larger terrain you'll be a little rattled at the end of the day but for normal XC and trail riding I find the Honzo very comfortable!

    You'll also find the members of Club Honzo to be a good bunch!

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_9536.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by FireMedic13 View Post
    New guy - First post here at MTBR. ...so I am looking to do a MTB build over the course of the next few months and have started looking very hard at the Honzo. I took a ST with a 140 Pike for a very short spin and came back amazed at how damn much fun it was to ride. I will be riding New England trails, nothing to downhill crazy just tearing it up with co-workers and friends. Daytrips, after work rides... typical Northern New England woods and exploring. I have been told I am crazy to go with a Honzo as the lack of rear suspension and the bikes geometry will suck comfortwise after anything more than an hour.

    What are your thoughts on this as ones ONLY mountain bike? Like I said I thought the bike was a blast. Wheelies, bunny hops... it just made me feel like a 12 year old on a BMX again. That being said... those qualities - do they make this bike kind of a one trick pony? Or am I over thinking this?

    Lastly its seems most on this thread have the ST version. I love the look and can have one in my hands by the end of May OR I can take home an AL/DL frame now. The AL has BOOST, is lighter... I even kind of dig the purpleISH color. Why does it seem so few are doing AL builds?

    Any input is greatly appreciated. I think I have pretty much made my mind. (I took a several year old SC Tallboy for a ride today... it did absolutely nothing for me. Even though my mind was telling me it should be a better bike for me.

    One Trick Pony? Y or N

    Good for the kind of riding I will be doing?

    AL/DL or ST?


    Thanks Again! I'll be watching for and appreciate any responses.

  99. #3199
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    Hi firemedic,
    I've ridden my '13 steel honzo on a three day trip across the Slovenian outskirts of the alps, and it was excellent. With tubeless tires, the steel frame and the 29er wheels, you compensate quite a bit of chatter at the back. And keep I liked the peace of mind of having fewer moving parts and no shock to worry about (my abra cadabra had a bad failure in the magic link some years back, which left me a branded child with regards to that).
    That being said, on one long descent, I did envy my mates on their fullies who just sat it out, while my thighs complained loudly 😊
    But all in all I was very happy with the honzo on that trip, and on all other rides even more!

  100. #3200
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    These feedbacks from old and new honzo owners makes me really stoked while waiting for my ti honzo to arrive! I am also planning to put a 140 36 float on it. I guess the bottom line here is that Kona was able to really nail the geometry of the bike in such a way that it will still be confidence inspiring despite lack of rear squish. I have lurked in this forum sub group before pulling the trigger as I have been a full sus guy all my life (started with a hardtail of course 6years ago but a more xc dedicated geometry) and i have yet to encounter any negative feedback about the bike. I think its just so great to be criticized. Well of course people who bought it expected already that its not gonna be as forgiving as any full susser is but a lot enjoy this bike despite that lackness.p

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