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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by JulianPeeters View Post

    Observed:


    Concluded:
    Out here in the high desert, a steel frame would probably last 40+ years without any real attention, although I always wipe mine down after her bath!

    I've seen steel water tanks go over 30 years between re-coats.

  2. #102
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    That's a lot of mud! How'd you get it all in there? Were you riding without a seat?
    Haha, riding is way more fun with a seat. And that's rust, not mud (luckily not my bike). Santa Barbara is pretty rusty, being right on the coast, but I tend to agree that the idea of rust-proofing is more critical on thin-walled race frames.

  3. #103
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    Dinglespeed...

    Just one of those bikes you love to play around with. Off with the drivetrain and on with a Hammerschmidt!

    22/36 with a 22t in the back so far.





    -D

  4. #104
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    Figure this is a good place to ask.
    Looking for my first 29er for all purpose use, mostly trails with some agressive riding, up and downhill, you name it. If you've seen the 29er forum you might have seen my thread, I was stuck between some XC HTs (giant xtc 1, Scott scale elite) and a FS XC (last years Trek HiFi plus). However, I liked the idea of a tough AM type frame.

    Fast forward to today, I went into a new LBS and see a new Honzo sitting, my size and looking sharp. The dude said he didn't know why they had it, and would be willing to let it go for 1575. Here is my dilemma, is getting a AM this agressive with a 1x9 going to be overkill? Would I be better suited for my first bike to be XC?

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    Figure this is a good place to ask.
    Looking for my first 29er for all purpose use, mostly trails with some agressive riding, up and downhill, you name it. If you've seen the 29er forum you might have seen my thread, I was stuck between some XC HTs (giant xtc 1, Scott scale elite) and a FS XC (last years Trek HiFi plus). However, I liked the idea of a tough AM type frame.

    Fast forward to today, I went into a new LBS and see a new Honzo sitting, my size and looking sharp. The dude said he didn't know why they had it, and would be willing to let it go for 1575. Here is my dilemma, is getting a AM this agressive with a 1x9 going to be overkill? Would I be better suited for my first bike to be XC?
    I can do everything I did on my Niner MCR9 and AIR9 faster and better on my Honzo. I'm also not using a granny, but I don't feel the geometry holds me back at all. It definitely makes descending more fun. You may struggle in the beginning going 1x9 if it's your first bike, but you will get stronger. The only question you need to ask yourself is are you all about racing, or do you just enjoy riding the entire mountain, up and down? That being said, I plan on racing on this bike and I'm sure I'll be faster than before.

    PS - I just reread your post and want to make it clear, this bike will not be overkill. If anything, you may end up upgrading the fork down the road to something even burlier. Keep in mind, the stock build is heavy in the wheels. If you end up getting it and want to buy a quality wheelset, I have set of Flows I'm selling if you're interested. I hear the Honzo stock build uses 4130 steel rims. Just kidding.

  6. #106
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    No, not planning on racing, plan on going over every type of terrain for hours of fun.I should say though, I do enjoy going fast too.
    Last edited by Fluidworks; 02-19-2012 at 05:09 PM.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    No, not planning on racing, plan on going over every type of terrain for hours of fun.I should say though, I do enjoy going fast too.
    The Honzo is straight-up one of the most fun bikes I have ever ridden; and as an aggressive, 29" wheeled, take on a classic "Shore" (Freeride/AllMountain/SuperXC/ETC) hardtail it is definitely on the bleeding edge when it comes to headangle and chainstay length. I ride it all the same places I would ride a 6" bike and always have fun (which is really the point).

    That said; for fast singletrack (where the descents don't get super-steep and nasty), technical rolling trails, or all out climbs I definitely prefer to ride my more "XC / Trail" 29'er and if I had to choose one bike, even living where I do, I would definitely pick a 29'er hardtail with more neutral geometry.

    The Big Unit is one of the best options out there (geared or singlespeed, neutral angles, sizing options, lightweight). Personally, my Fisher Superfly (sometimes one-speed, sometimes geared) is getting replaced with a Raijin as soon as my frame arrives.

    -D

  8. #108
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    The Hammer looks so good on the Honzo.
    konahonzo

  9. #109
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    Judging from the apparent gap b/t the rear tire and the seat tube as well as the fact you didn't mention having to grind a notch out of the HS back plate means you must have one of the "non-production" frames with the longer CS. Does your CS yoke look like this?



    Or this:


  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by eauxgod View Post
    Judging from the apparent gap b/t the rear tire and the seat tube as well as the fact you didn't mention having to grind a notch out of the HS back plate means you must have one of the "non-production" frames with the longer CS. Does your CS yoke look like this?
    Apologies, I missed your post! I do have the super-short-stayed production frame.

    I certainly had to do some "strategic warranty violating" to my Schmidt back plate.

    It was about 5-minutes on the grinder to do a good job (and then 15 minutes cleaning aluminum dust out of the mechanism because I'm a gumby).

    -D
    Last edited by DrewM; 02-20-2012 at 09:08 AM. Reason: production frame...

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by eauxgod View Post
    Judging from the apparent gap b/t the rear tire and the seat tube as well as the fact you didn't mention having to grind a notch out of the HS back plate means you must have one of the "non-production" frames with the longer CS. Does your CS yoke look like this?
    Apologies, I missed your post! I do have the super-short-stayed production frame.

    I certainly had to do some "strategic warranty violating" to my Schmidt back plate.

    It was about 5-minutes on the grinder to do a good job (and then 15 minutes cleaning aluminum dust out of the mechanism because I'm a gumby).

    -D

  12. #112
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    I have been thinking about getting a Honzo for some time now but I just have one concern. The rear triangle looks so skinny and weak. It looks like the welds that hold the dropouts on will snap if you drop more than a foot. Can any of you Honzo owners tell me if these concerns are legit? Maybe post some pics of the dropouts?

  13. #113
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    It is a tried-n-true design made of steel...I'd say no worries.
    Last edited by eauxgod; 02-26-2012 at 12:57 PM.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider906 View Post
    I have been thinking about getting a Honzo for some time now but I just have one concern. The rear triangle looks so skinny and weak. It looks like the welds that hold the dropouts on will snap if you drop more than a foot. Can any of you Honzo owners tell me if these concerns are legit? Maybe post some pics of the dropouts?
    If this is the only thing holding you back from a Honzo: Buy One.

    Definitely built to last, I have beaten the crap out of mine, in my experience (I work at a -among other brands- Kona dealer) Kona has been fantastic to deal with in terms of standing behind their product (definitely better then most).

    -D

  15. #115
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    finally!

    It's finally here!

    I'm still waiting on a few parts, so for now, a teaser:

    2016 Honzo Ti SS
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon commuter
    2 bikes, 2 gears.
    www.mngnt.com

  16. #116
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    Stoked to see it!!
    konahonzo

  17. #117
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    awesome! Which brakes and rotor do you have mounted?

  18. #118
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    Fair Review

    Kona Honzo 29er Review - BikeRadar

    This is a fair review of the Honzo that points out "perceived" shortcomings, but a custom build can make this the perfect bike for many. However, if you don't have the fitness, the lack of a front derailleur can be a deal breaker. Here's how I remedied the reviewer's issues with the Honzo.

    Chain guide drag- I use a jump-stop. It's lighter, friction-free, and silent.

    Lack of a front derailleur- I don't run one anyway and even switched from a 36t cassette to a 34t.

    Lowish BB height- You may have pedal strikes the first couple rides, but the benefits of a low BB are awesome. I run a 2.4 Ardent in the rear and that raises it a little, but it's not a problem where I ride. The Chromag Surface has a 12.75" BB, but that's with a 140mm Fork. At 120mm, it would be just under 12.5".

  19. #119
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    Whats the biggest drops you guys have hit on the Honzo? I know its not a downhill bike but you occasionally encounter drops on the trail and I want to know I'm not gonna snap those wimpy looking dropouts. And if i were to snap the welds, would that be covered by the warranty?

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider906 View Post
    Whats the biggest drops you guys have hit on the Honzo? I know its not a downhill bike but you occasionally encounter drops on the trail and I want to know I'm not gonna snap those wimpy looking dropouts. And if i were to snap the welds, would that be covered by the warranty?
    I'm about 200lbs and do 3 foot drops regularly no problems. I was worried about my carbon riser bar and just now switched to a wider aluminum bar. I've never been worried about the dropouts failing. The design seems beefy to me. The force of a drop should be vertical and the steel plate is 1/4" x 1/2" wide. In my mind it would be difficult to cause those to fail. Now a hit directly sideways may bend them, but that's an unlikely impact. Post up a picture of a burly dropout so readers have something for comparison. I'm guessing a dirtjumper must have a good design.

    Also, Kona has a lifetime warranty for defects and a crash replacement program. But, if you're hucking off 6 foot drops, this is probably the wrong bike for you.

  21. #121
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    Dropouts on my 2008 Kona Shred.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0165.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0166.jpg  


  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider906 View Post
    Dropouts on my 2008 Kona Shred.
    That looks beefy, but how much thicker is it at the weld area? I think that would be the weakest link. I just back from a ride and did a feature I haven't done before. It's a man-made wooden drop that's between 3-4 feet high. It went well except that I burped a little air and have a wobble in my flow rim.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    That looks beefy, but how much thicker is it at the weld area? I think that would be the weakest link. I just back from a ride and did a feature I haven't done before. It's a man-made wooden drop that's between 3-4 feet high. It went well except that I burped a little air and have a wobble in my flow rim.
    Its pretty thick at the welds, but I am pretty satisfied that the Honzo will hold up to the stuff that I ride. I wish I just got back from a ride....we just got about three feet of snow in the past day and a half... And what is this "crash replacement"? Is that a real thing?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider906 View Post
    Its pretty thick at the welds, but I am pretty satisfied that the Honzo will hold up to the stuff that I ride. I wish I just got back from a ride....we just got about three feet of snow in the past day and a half... And what is this "crash replacement"? Is that a real thing?
    Crash replacement is a customer loyalty thing. They give you a deep discount for staying loyal and buying another frame from them.

    Snow? Crazy, it was 89 degrees today in San Diego. I had to wait until 2 hours before sunset and it finally dropped to about 80 degress.

  25. #125
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    Started with assorted stuff from a 2010 Rig, along with a few AM-oriented goodies...


    The guy driving the big brown truck just rang the doorbell, Oh joy!

    20L frame = 6 lbs, 12 oz



    Sling some wrenches for about 90 minutes...


    Just need to get steerer tube to my height & set the fork sag


    RWC extender cup is like a mini-lift kit


    Wow, that number shocked me!


    20L frame
    Marzocchi 44 TST fork, 140mm
    Bontrager Duster SS wheelset w/15mm Dimension front hub
    Specialized Purgatory, 2.4"
    RWC extender bottom cup/Cane Creek 40ZS44 short cap
    Sunline AM stem, 65mm
    Sunline VS One bars, 745mm
    old-skool (circa 2000) Avid Speed Dial TT levers
    BB7 calipers
    Alligator Windcutter rotors, 203mm
    Bontrager Big Earl post
    Bontrager Race cranks, 175mm
    Surly ring, 32t
    Surly cassette cog, 20t
    Trailwrecker at large

  26. #126
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    Very nice! Glad to see another 20L out there. Any rides yet?
    2016 Honzo Ti SS
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon commuter
    2 bikes, 2 gears.
    www.mngnt.com

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by howard619 View Post
    awesome! Which brakes and rotor do you have mounted?
    Hope Tech M4's and a 183mm Hope floating sawtooth rotor.
    2016 Honzo Ti SS
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon commuter
    2 bikes, 2 gears.
    www.mngnt.com

  28. #128
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    Nope, just came in from the garage....but I'll get it out for a test flight over the w/end.




    Is it the w/end yet?!?
    Trailwrecker at large

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubes17319 View Post
    Wow, that number shocked me!
    Shocked at how heavy it is or how how light it is?
    Nice build. I particularly like the wheels. That's how I'd build mine if given the chance
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    WOW, nice looking bike and build, very colour coordinated and blingy

    Seriously, you call that "plenty" of clearance If that's "plenty" of room to you you obviously don't ever ride in the mud.


    I appreciate the picture for sure. It tells me that there isn't enough room for running those tires on the trails around here. We have serious mud that would easily lock the wheel up completely. Still a tempting frame though...

  31. #131
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    6.12lbs for a 20", long frame is really not that bad, considering some "light" 29er frames are 5lbs and not built to the same burly standards as the Honzo.

    Most of the weight comes from the tires and the fork.

    Still, it's impressive that there are 160mm all-mountain full suspension bike like the carbon Enduro, Nomad, and others that tip the scales with 2x10 at or around 30lbs.

    Maybe Kona should do a carbon Honzo?

  32. #132
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    What do people think of the complete's of these bikes? I was going to build my own, but looking at the build Im not that far off from the stock (and much higher in price). The wheels are question to me, never loved wtb's. Ive always been fine with mid range bontragers on my 26 under a lot of tension, but I do weigh about 230 right now at 6'4", and have a tendency to brake every fork I have ever owned (including an older revelation 120 uturn, QR).

    Ive always ridden slalom/4x like steel hardtails as trail bikes, suits what I love about mountain biking. Maybe I'll even give it a go for a race or two.

  33. #133
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    ^ The only thing decent on the stock build IMO is the fork, brakes, tires. Everything else could be had lighter, and not too mention the outdated standard crank. The stock wheels are also pretty heavy.

    Being 6'4, did you decide on 20 or 20L?
    konahonzo

  34. #134
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    Thanks. cranks was the other concern, who still uses isis? figured id change em out for slx if I went complete. The other concern about going with my own build is time. Im a grad student and want to be riding ASAP as an escape, dont want to be concerned with build issues. I also have a cockpit setup I like that I never got to install on my last bike before it got stolen.

    I was thinking 20 reg. my last frame, ns surge (26") was 24.5, and felt long, although good long, fit me perfect. will it be different on a 29"? The surge had a 44" WB, the 20 reg will be 45.2, or 46.1 for 20L, seems like a better introductory for 29.

    Otherwise, Geo seems pretty close to my last 26in hardtail. Used for slalom, fast trail rides, blasting corners with flat pedals. Any thoughts though? Should I be scaling up my top tube length with the scale up in wheel size?

    Also, I'll be riding trails in massachusetts. Generally of the flowy type, but with some tech at parts. I will be glad to give up tech ability for more fun handling on the flowing stuff. If it works well at the kingdom trails in VT i will be happy.

  35. #135
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    I rethinking the idea of the 20Long, any thoughts on this? will it be no fun on the tight stuff? Like i said, Im 6'4", riding Massachusetts, and some kingdom trails.

    Also, I imagine it isnt an issue, but how is the toe clearence on these? Sat on a 19 recently and my toe was buzzing a lot. I ride flats and tend to be a bit forward on my pedals.

  36. #136
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    Here's what I can add, I'm 6'4" 32/33 pant inseam and originally ordered the 20" Honzo frame, and that's after spending days comparing geometry specs to other 29er AMHT frames and to my last Transition TransAM 19.5" 26er (24.5" ETT with a Float 36 and that bike always felt fun for the first hour on trail, then always quite cramped and I felt always sitting on top of it).

    The other 29ers I was looking at were the Canfield Yelli Screamy, Transition TransAM 29er, Banshee Paradox, Chromag Surface and the 2Souls QH/Slim Jim (which I'm still looking to buy the frame if they get the ball rolling on the XXL size due to tubing sourcing problems), I decided to go with the Honzo, great price, lifetime warranty, and geometry looks great on paper too, short CS, slack HA, steep SA.

    Wanting a slightly bigger bike than the TransAM, I figured the 20" frame would suffice. When I got it, I kinda mocked it up with the wheels, 140 Revelation fork, 70mm Thomson X4 stem and setback Thomson post and I sat on it. Wasn't that impressed. Riding position was still similar to the TransAM, felt kinda on top of the bars and cramped. Switched to a 90mm Thomson X4 stem and it was slightly better but that defeats the whole purpose of this frame, which begs for a short stem.

    Returned the 20" frame and got a 20L. Did the same thing with the mock up, but now with a 50mm Thomson X4 stem, 750mm+ bars and Reverb post (zero setback) it feels a whole lot better. Just enough room without being stretched out at all as a 26" ETT would lead you to believe. The extra inch in ETT helps a lot, especially with these newer AM frames requiring short stems for a fun ride.

    The WB of the 20L isn't that long anyway, only an inch longer than the 20" frame, and only .50" to 1.00" of the other frames I was looking at as well.

    As I've learned with this bike and studying the geometry charts, they only tell you half the story, the other is told when you actually sit on the bike and get a real feel for it.

    Hopefully I can post some pics next week when I'll finish my build finally. Last package from Hucknroll is coming tomorrow, and I still need to rust proof my frame.
    konahonzo

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    Nice write up...I agree with you on the short stem. These bikes with slack head angles balance out best with a short stem which puts you behind the wheel for point and shoot handling.

    Question about the rust proofing...do you think it's necessary? I believe the frame is dipped in zinc, which should make it pretty well protected.

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by howard619 View Post

    Question about the rust proofing...do you think it's necessary? I believe the frame is dipped in zinc, which should make it pretty well protected.
    A $15 can of JP Weigle Frame Saver is better save than sorry. My last steel frame was ED-coated inside and out, but I'm going to spray this one for a piece of mind.
    konahonzo

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Here's what I can add, I'm 6'4" 32/33 pant inseam and originally ordered the 20" Honzo frame, and that's after spending days comparing geometry specs to other 29er AMHT frames and to my last Transition TransAM 19.5" 26er (24.5" ETT with a Float 36 and that bike always felt fun for the first hour on trail, then always quite cramped and I felt always sitting on top of it).

    The other 29ers I was looking at were the Canfield Yelli Screamy, Transition TransAM 29er, Banshee Paradox, Chromag Surface and the 2Souls QH/Slim Jim (which I'm still looking to buy the frame if they get the ball rolling on the XXL size due to tubing sourcing problems), I decided to go with the Honzo, great price, lifetime warranty, and geometry looks great on paper too, short CS, slack HA, steep SA.

    Wanting a slightly bigger bike than the TransAM, I figured the 20" frame would suffice. When I got it, I kinda mocked it up with the wheels, 140 Revelation fork, 70mm Thomson X4 stem and setback Thomson post and I sat on it. Wasn't that impressed. Riding position was still similar to the TransAM, felt kinda on top of the bars and cramped. Switched to a 90mm Thomson X4 stem and it was slightly better but that defeats the whole purpose of this frame, which begs for a short stem.

    Returned the 20" frame and got a 20L. Did the same thing with the mock up, but now with a 50mm Thomson X4 stem, 750mm+ bars and Reverb post (zero setback) it feels a whole lot better. Just enough room without being stretched out at all as a 26" ETT would lead you to believe. The extra inch in ETT helps a lot, especially with these newer AM frames requiring short stems for a fun ride.

    The WB of the 20L isn't that long anyway, only an inch longer than the 20" frame, and only .50" to 1.00" of the other frames I was looking at as well.

    As I've learned with this bike and studying the geometry charts, they only tell you half the story, the other is told when you actually sit on the bike and get a real feel for it.

    Hopefully I can post some pics next week when I'll finish my build finally. Last package from is coming tomorrow, and I still need to rust proof my frame.
    Awesome, thanks so much for the write up. I honestly haven't had time to do that amount of research, or any knowledge of 29er geo's. I am leaning towards the long now. I have a feeling the 16.2 chainstays will make it manageable. also, they are the same length I had on my NS surge 26" now that I think if it, didnt realize how crazy short they were able to get these on 29".

  40. #140
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    This is from Joe @ Kona when asked about prepping the frame:

    "The tubing isnít treated, Iíd recommend us J.P. Wiegleís Framesaver before building."

  41. #141
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    I'm about the same dimensions as eurospek & I'm sitting pretty comfy & upright on the 20L (65mm stem, 745mm bars, 140mm fork & RWC extender cup). I sat on a built 20r & it felt as if I was gonna go OTB just sitting still, or smash my knees into the bars when pedaling.

    As for the CS length/rear-center positioning, here's a quick comparison of how my XL Karate Monkey & 20L Honzo measured out:

    BB-rear hub / center of saddle - rear hub
    KM.............17.5" / 7.5"
    Honzo.........16.5" / 6.5"
    Trailwrecker at large

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    Awesome, thanks so much for the write up. I honestly haven't had time to do that amount of research, or any knowledge of 29er geo's. I am leaning towards the long now. I have a feeling the 16.2 chainstays will make it manageable. also, they are the same length I had on my NS surge 26" now that I think if it, didnt realize how crazy short they were able to get these on 29".
    Yup, these chainstay lengths are about the shortest that I've seen in this category of bike without going custom.

    And if you're buying frameset only, check out Bikeman.com, they have all sizes in stock and free shipping.

    I got lucky with my 20L frame that I found new for $475 from Sellwood Cycle Repair.
    Last edited by eurospek; 03-14-2012 at 04:50 PM.
    konahonzo

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    Ive now got a 20L complete on the way to the shop, really pumped, got some other parts ready to order as well, SLX crankset, thomson stem and post. Going to give my bontrager rhythms a shot for bars, and my go to selle seat. Other than that, going to give the parts on the there a shot.

    If anyone is looking for this bike in the northeast, JRA cycles has an 18 frame in stock for a pretty good deal, and have a 20 complete on the way, cool guys too. I was ready to buy through them, untill I found a way to grab it through my shop. Also some different pedals, unless anyone knows if there ok?

    Also, do people really run 8in rotors on the front of there AM 29ers? seems to be common, but strange to me.

  44. #144
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    Excellent switches to the stock build. You'll have a great bike!

    I ran 8 inch rotors on my previous bike (on the 26er) but kicked back to 7, kinda overkill and always made slight noise, still on the fence of what I'll do, but probably run 8 on the front again, and 7 in the back.

    And if you're looking at changing saddles, I might pick that stock WTB Vigo saddle from you to try.
    konahonzo

  45. #145
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    I bought a Honzo about 6 weeks ago and have been riding it pretty exclusively ever since, and have concluded that its a very worthy bike.It was bought as a complete, the previous owner was a bike shop owner who bought it and rode it about 5 times. He had replaced the cranks with a dh e13 crank which was a nice upgrade that I didnt have to mess with. I rode it basically stock for about a month but then went ss and replaced the stock post with a set back Thompson. That made a big difference (the post). At 5'11 the setback post helped a lot. SS is what it is. Im running 32/21 which works fine for me. Where i ride im either climbing or bombing down so gears arent all that necessary. The stock configuration just felt like it had a lot of extra weight and so much drag. I believe it weighed 31 lbs stock (upgraded cranks) without pedals. I havent weighed it since i went SS but I will weigh it again when i get my King Flow front wheel on the bike. My current quiver includes a 20 inch KM and a 19 inch dw link 5 spot, so the Honzo is kind of in between as far as sizing and function goes. The Honzo outright shreds anything remotely downhill. I was looking for a new go to bike to replace the aging KM. The Honzo is an absolute blast and it actually feels faster in a lot of rough terrain than my 5 spot. As long as youre not expecting a lightweight bike it will be hard to be disappointed with the Honzo.
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  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by munstro View Post
    I bought a Honzo about 6 weeks ago and have been riding it pretty exclusively ever since, and have concluded that its a very worthy bike.It was bought as a complete, the previous owner was a bike shop owner who bought it and rode it about 5 times. He had replaced the cranks with a dh e13 crank which was a nice upgrade that I didnt have to mess with. I rode it basically stock for about a month but then went ss and replaced the stock post with a set back Thompson. That made a big difference (the post). At 5'11 the setback post helped a lot. SS is what it is. Im running 32/21 which works fine for me. Where i ride im either climbing or bombing down so gears arent all that necessary. The stock configuration just felt like it had a lot of extra weight and so much drag. I believe it weighed 31 lbs stock (upgraded cranks) without pedals. I havent weighed it since i went SS but I will weigh it again when i get my King Flow front wheel on the bike. My current quiver includes a 20 inch KM and a 19 inch dw link 5 spot, so the Honzo is kind of in between as far as sizing and function goes. The Honzo outright shreds anything remotely downhill. I was looking for a new go to bike to replace the aging KM. The Honzo is an absolute blast and it actually feels faster in a lot of rough terrain than my 5 spot. As long as youre not expecting a lightweight bike it will be hard to be disappointed with the Honzo.
    Nice write up. You can get the Honzo below 28lbs w/ gears and still have a stout build. Mine weighs 27lbs. 11oz. (medium frame).

  47. #147
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    Hello it is with pleasure that I read your discussion on the Kona Honzo.
    I'm really huge and powerful 6'7 "(202cm) / 350pounds
    According to Kona, the Kona Honzo can support my weight.
    However, I have a question about the frame size 20L.
    My inseam is 100cm / 39inch. Do you think the frame 20L will suit me?

    is there any people with the same morphology as me?

    Thank you in advance for your answers

    Good evening,

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by lusss View Post
    Hello it is with pleasure that I read your discussion on the Kona Honzo.
    I'm really huge and powerful 6'7 "(202cm) / 350pounds
    According to Kona, the Kona Honzo can support my weight.
    However, I have a question about the frame size 20L.
    My inseam is 100cm / 39inch. Do you think the frame 20L will suit me?

    is there any people with the same morphology as me?

    Thank you in advance for your answers

    Good evening,
    MrTall posting here is 6'7" and it fits him fine.

    Anyone got a Kona Honzo? ę Singletrack Forum
    konahonzo

  49. #149
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    If you have a 39" inseam, it seems you have pretty long legs even for your height. You might need an exceptionally long seatpost, as the 20L just has a 20" seat tube.

    A rough measurement for my 36" inseam shows I have 32" from bb to seat, meaning I need 11" or so of seatpost exposed. By the same calculations, you'd need 14+, which is longer than most posts I believe.

    Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk
    2016 Honzo Ti SS
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    www.mngnt.com

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Any of you guys finding the BB too low at 12.2"? This is the lowest BB from all the 29er AM frames I'm looking at.
    I've smacked my pedals more than I can remember since pedaling this bike. (SS, 175mm cranks & Wellgo platforms)
    Trailwrecker at large

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