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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I've completely destroyed the freehub only after 3 weeks of riding!
    It is the stock wheelset.
    I haven't pulled it apart to see exactly what has happened but my educated guess is I've sheared the palls off of the freehub body.

    I realize the wheelset isn't very high end, however, I expected the freehub to last at least until the middle of the summer!
    I'm a big guy so I know I generate a lot of torque through the drivetrain. And, I do expect to have to replace a freehub at some point in the middle of my riding season. But, this is ridiculous!
    This is the shortest length of time I've ever had on a bike before having a freehub blowup on me!

    Hopefully Kona can sort me out without too much trouble.
    We'll see!


    Other than that I've been really enjoying the bike!
    The single ring up front is definitely making me stronger and changing how I ride/climb the trails. Although, at times I still wish very much for a granny ring!

    wow that's too bad man....thanks for posting it up though - definitely let us know how they handle it as I am sure you won't be the only one affected. An unfortunate oversight re: hub spec for sure. After reading Eurospek's response and doing some subsequent research - seems like those 36 tooth cassettes don't play nicely with cheaper to moderately priced freehubs in general. Guess I can see the issue though - I definitely mash the crap out of it on steeper climbs....

    ...I am one month in on my (mostly stock) Honzo and love it - no probs yet knock wood.....

  2. #202
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    Clearly the best solution is to pull off those pesky gears and put those sliding dropouts to good use You'll save a pound or 2 as well
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  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Clearly the best solution is to pull off those pesky gears and put those sliding dropouts to good use You'll save a pound or 2 as well
    QFT
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  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Clearly the best solution to torture yourself is to pull off those pesky gears and put those sliding dropouts to good use You'll save a pound or 2 as well

    Sorry, just not into sucking the fun out of my rides by going single speed.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    FYP



    Sorry, just not into sucking the fun out of my rides by going single speed.
    Heh, I think you'll find most SSers would say quite the opposite! 32-20 gearing is easy enough to push up most steep technical climbs, and anything requiring a long granny gear spin I'd rather walk anyway.

    I do agree with you when it comes to rigid though.
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  6. #206
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    I've been meaning to post a short review as I've logged a couple rides on mine now.

    I'm riding the bike stock, minus some bontrager rhythm (29.5") bars and a 50mm stem. I'm 6'4" and ride the LT in Massachusetts. I came off of a similar geo hardtail, my background is flat pedal trail riding, and have raced downhill and slalom many years, this is my first 29er.

    So I want to start it by saying a bike is a bike. Don't believe all the hype in the 26 vs 29er debate. It feels great to be out again, and the only time I pick on things is after the ride. That said, I have noticed some notable differences. This bike carries a lot of speed, through corners and over rough stuff. I really like that about it, It generally wants to go where it is already going, slightly more than a 26er, meaning its slightly harder to change lines and things. Also, in the air, it doesnt really want to get sideways or flat, but hopefully this is an adjustment thing.

    This bike just fits me better than anything ive ridden in the basic geometry sense. I dont feel like im floating on top of it, just waiting to go over the bars at any moment. I am able to ride this bike with a lot more movement over the top, closer to a dirt bike. I like this quite a lot. I would say the feeling of being "in" the bike is false, but maybe its because I am larger.

    The cornering on this bike is amazing, really sticks and allows you to push harder, especially over the rough stuff. The downhill capability is also great, so stable at speed, and it feels quite a bit smoothed out. Over the loose stuff, have the front or rear slide out doesn't seem to be that big of a concern. I think the short CS really helps all these things. I can also manual this bike just as good as my 26ers. I have ridden it on pump track with good results as well.

    One thing I like is that it makes climbing fun (ish). On a similar geo and spec 26er, climbing has never been great, this definitely gives you a more all around possibility. I stand a lot, and am getting a lot less slippage on the steep and loose stuff.

    On the downside, it is true that the bike feels as though it wants to stay grounded, especially at lower speeds. I think this has to do with the BB drop. I might try running less sag, or going 5" in the front. I dont love the idea of the HT angle being any slacker though. Its so stable already I wouldnt want the bike to feel any longer. If I was doing a custom build, I would do a 5" fork, with angleset set to steepen the HT angle. The threshold for getting loose seams to be higher and more sudden on this, it doesnt skate around like my 26ers have especially in the tighter slower trails. On the fast trails I think its more fun than 26ers, more confidence inspiring. I also have cranked pedals off of every rock on the trail, nothing catastrophic, but an annoyance. This is mostly a time on the bike thing, and I dont hit much any more, but I also feel myself hold back a lot, and doing quick jabs in the rough stuff. On a 26, I might not even pedal through this stuff at all, but with the possibilities of the 29 I would like to.

    The bike does feel cumbersome in the tighter stuff. But its just a getting used to thing. I wish it had slightly wider tire clearance. I find my tire buzzing the CS or chainguide in hard corners. Maybe this is the lack of stiffness in the wheels.

    The stock build is OK, I can already feel the freehub trying to destroy itself. The cranks suck, flexy and bound to fail. ( I will go SLX soon). The brakes arent bad, I love the fork and tires, seat is also nice. The wheels dont seem great and feel heavy. The major uprade for me would be a lighter tubeless wheelset with better hubs. Maybe this feeling of wanting to go where it is already going would be lessened with this change.

    I need some suggestions on bars. The stock bars werent terrible, but for some reason I dont trust them or love the weight. The rhythms I have liked on other bikes, but this bike seems too long for them. For stand up aggressive riding they are good, but when sitting my wrists/thumbs are in pain from the angle. I might cut them. But I really want more up and back sweep, maybe the sunline flat bars? (more adjust-ability than a riser)

    I cant wait to have this bike out on the kingdom trails for some 8 hour fast and flowy trails.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-2012-05-05-17.12.33.jpg  


  7. #207
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    Great review. I'm finding my rear tire clearance just fine. I was dead set on 2.4 Ardents all around but finding the 2.25 in the back just fine. I don't think I would go bigger next time. And I think the stock wheelset is what Kona dropped the ball on. You wouldn't be the first guy to complain about it, and with the 2.25 Ardent and a Sun-Ringle Charger Expert, I'm not experiencing your symptoms of rubbing, and I'm the same height and 240 lbs.

    Btw, you're on a 20L? That pic is deceiving.

    Here's a crappy phone shot of mine recently,

    konahonzo

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Great review. I'm finding my rear tire clearance just fine. I was dead set on 2.4 Ardents all around but finding the 2.25 in the back just fine. I don't think I would go bigger next time. And I think the stock wheelset is what Kona dropped the ball on. You wouldn't be the first guy to complain about it, and with the 2.25 Ardent and a Sun-Ringle Charger Expert, I'm not experiencing your symptoms of rubbing, and I'm the same height and 240 lbs.

    Btw, you're on a 20L? That pic is deceiving.

    Here's a crappy phone shot of mine recently,
    The rubbing only occurs during really hard cornering, probably harder than you can acheive on all but the most grippy dirt. I love the 2.25, and would see any reason to go wider. The Sun-Ringle Charger Expert wheelset is what Im thinking.

    Yeah, I'm on the 20L. Also, I meant to write about a dropper post. When I am riding this bike I really feel like it is necessary. Because I move around on the longer bike so much, It would be nice to get it out of the way. I didnt realize how expensive they are though. I'm thinking the reverb would be the way to go. I am also Liking the new KS.

    Your bike looks awesome. Basically what I would want mine to end up as.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    The rubbing only occurs during really hard cornering, probably harder than you can acheive on all but the most grippy dirt. I love the 2.25, and would see any reason to go wider. The Sun-Ringle Charger Expert wheelset is what Im thinking.

    Yeah, I'm on the 20L. Also, I meant to write about a dropper post. When I am riding this bike I really feel like it is necessary. Because I move around on the longer bike so much, It would be nice to get it out of the way. I didnt realize how expensive they are though. I'm thinking the reverb would be the way to go. I am also Liking the new KS.

    Your bike looks awesome. Basically what I would want mine to end up as.

    FYI,I dinged my Charger Experts pretty quickly, enough that I had to start running them ghetto tubeless to hold air. It was on a full suspension Dawg,which I tend to hammer more into bumps than I would a rigid,so it may not be a issue for you.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    FYI,I dinged my Charger Experts pretty quickly, enough that I had to start running them ghetto tubeless to hold air. It was on a full suspension Dawg,which I tend to hammer more into bumps than I would a rigid,so it may not be a issue for you.
    get the morningstar rim wrench. used it on my flows and pretty much took out the dings with no trace.

  11. #211
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    i originally laced a nukeproof to a velocity blunt sl with straight 14's, that would occasionally rub in corners and eventually taco'd, relaced the hub to a sun-ringle mtx33 with 14's and no more flex. definitely cornering harder and faster on the honzo and no signs of rub whatsoever. that mtx33 was the easiest wheel i've ever laced btw. i had it trued and tensioned on the bike in under 45 minutes. i'm 6'3" 200lbs and it's the only rim i'll ever buy again.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I tried the 140mm setting and it's good for the bigger chunk on the trails, but for the majoirty of where I ride, it feels like too much (similar to the TransAM feeling I had rocking a Fox Float 36 at 160mm). Definitely use it on the downhills, a simple flick of the knob and it's wonderful stuff.
    So I gave the 140mm setting another try last ride, for a full ride this time. Previously I didn't bother with it more than a few minutes and I was getting tired of the pedal strikes at 110mm. Even if you did out of the seat pedaling and placed the foot wrong (size 12 Vans), you managed to clip it on the ground sometimes.

    I moved 2 spacers to the top of the stem, made the fork much plusher, (at 110mm, I was pretty firm with the psi as I easily ate up all the travel with big hits) and boy am I loving the 140mm setting on the Honzo. Zero pedal strikes and I feel much more confident going over stuff, nice to see some suspension work again. And I still want to reposition the cranks whenever I see big rocks/logs to avoid strikes since 110mm taught me well lol. But no need anymore.

    Only thing I should have bought originally was the short upper CC40 cup, only 8mm stack height, I went with the tall upper cup, 15mm height, but got one off Amazon and will be installing it tomorrow, and slamming the Thomson X4 to the headset with only a 2.5mm spacer, and 3 or 4 5mm spacers on top and trimming the steerer a bit.

    Also forgot how horrible Oury lock-ons are. Tried some SDG Hansolo lock-ons but way too narrow, I found I was holding on to them much tighter than needed and went back to some tried and true ODI Rogues.

    And loving the recently replaced cassette and new freehub body. I went from a 11-34 to a 12-36 and couldn't be happier. I can now make the climbs that I struggled with on the XT cassette. The new cromoly freehub body for the Sun Ringle Charger Experts (same freehub body that is used on their Demon DH wheelset) added only 35 grams over the aluminum freehub body. No more freehub noise while putting the power down to climb and the 12-36 gear ratio is much more friendly for a 1x9 noob like myself. Also the bearings in the freehub body are much further spaced apart now, the axle spacer is half the size as before, so I imagine this cromoly freehub body will hold up better over time to abuse.
    konahonzo

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    So I gave the 140mm setting another try last ride, for a full ride this time. Previously I didn't bother with it more than a few minutes and I was getting tired of the pedal strikes at 110mm. Even if you did out of the seat pedaling and placed the foot wrong (size 12 Vans), you managed to clip it on the ground sometimes.

    I moved 2 spacers to the top of the stem, made the fork much plusher, (at 110mm, I was pretty firm with the psi as I easily ate up all the travel with big hits) and boy am I loving the 140mm setting on the Honzo. Zero pedal strikes and I feel much more confident going over stuff, nice to see some suspension work again. And I still want to reposition the cranks whenever I see big rocks/logs to avoid strikes since 110mm taught me well lol. But no need anymore.

    Only thing I should have bought originally was the short upper CC40 cup, only 8mm stack height, I went with the tall upper cup, 15mm height, but got one off Amazon and will be installing it tomorrow, and slamming the Thomson X4 to the headset with only a 2.5mm spacer, and 3 or 4 5mm spacers on top and trimming the steerer a bit.

    Also forgot how horrible Oury lock-ons are. Tried some SDG Hansolo lock-ons but way too narrow, I found I was holding on to them much tighter than needed and went back to some tried and true ODI Rogues.

    And loving the recently replaced cassette and new freehub body. I went from a 11-34 to a 12-36 and couldn't be happier. I can now make the climbs that I struggled with on the XT cassette. The new cromoly freehub body for the Sun Ringle Charger Experts (same freehub body that is used on their Demon DH wheelset) added only 35 grams over the aluminum freehub body. No more freehub noise while putting the power down to climb and the 12-36 gear ratio is much more friendly for a 1x9 noob like myself. Also the bearings in the freehub body are much further spaced apart now, the axle spacer is half the size as before, so I imagine this cromoly freehub body will hold up better over time to abuse.
    any idea what this brings the HT angle too? im a little worried about it getting a bit sluggish. I'll probably give this a shot either way though.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    any idea what this brings the HT angle too? im a little worried about it getting a bit sluggish. I'll probably give this a shot either way though.
    According to the Clinometer app on my phone, unsagged head angle appears to be in the 66.9-67.1° degree range.

    According to this, it's 67.2°.

    All I know is it feels good in terms of steering, especially now that I slammed the bars to the headset, have only one 5mm spacer, thinking of trying a 2.5mm or even putting everything on top of the stem. The new headset cup (8mm vs 15mm stack height) also helped things tremendously. I first tried the 140mm setting with the tall cup and 10mm of spacers. Didn't like it at all, and flipped back to 110mm after a few minutes. But even with such tame singletrack here in the Midwest, I was striking my pedals A LOT. Even with out of the saddle pedaling, if my Vans were at the wrong angle/position on the pedals, I clipped the rocks/logs/ground with toe box.

    Running a good amount of sag now, I'm less conscious about pedal strikes but finding more gnarly lines through the trails. I'm still thinking about clipping my pedals whenever I see big obstacles, try to reposition my footing/pedals, but no contact no occurs.

    And steering at 140mm on the Honzo feels a whole lot less twitchy than my previous Transition TrasnAM with a 36 Float 160mm with a final HA 67.1°.
    konahonzo

  15. #215
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    140mm feels great for me.

    Even at that height, for me, I have constant pedal strikes, and I'm constantly thinking about it and readjusting my crank position (175mm cranks). I had one on Sunday on a ladder with a board sticking up that I didn't see coming - threw me into a nice nose wheelie for one of those slow-motion "I'm inevitably going to eat sh!t" face plants. Good times
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  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    140mm feels great for me.

    Even at that height, for me, I have constant pedal strikes, and I'm constantly thinking about it and readjusting my crank position (175mm cranks). I had one on Sunday on a ladder with a board sticking up that I didn't see coming - threw me into a nice nose wheelie for one of those slow-motion "I'm inevitably going to eat sh!t" face plants. Good times
    The Revelation has a 548mm A-2-C measurment, the Fox 34 is 552.8mm if I recall.

    But either way, I still can't believe how proper of a fit this bike is for me, loving every aspect of it and more. I don't know how the guy at 6'6" feels comfortable on the regular 20 frame. I think keeping the 20" for myself would have been one big mistake.
    konahonzo

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The Revelation has a 548mm A-2-C measurment, the Fox 34 is 552.8mm if I recall.

    But either way, I still can't believe how proper of a fit this bike is for me, loving every aspect of it and more. I don't know how the guy at 6'6" feels comfortable on the regular 20 frame. I think keeping the 20" for myself would have been one big mistake.
    I'm happy with the long too. Its a whole new experience being able to move over the bike, which I love, and always felt I missed out in while being tall. Stand up pedaling is great too, never limited by cranking my knees off things.

    Im going to have to figure out how to raise this revelation.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    I'm happy with the long too. Its a whole new experience being able to move over the bike, which I love, and always felt I missed out in while being tall. Stand up pedaling is great too, never limited by cranking my knees off things.

    Im going to have to figure out how to raise this revelation.
    I'm 99% positive all you have to do is remove the All-Travel spacer in there from the non-damper side and you'll be at 140 in no time.
    konahonzo

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The Revelation has a 548mm A-2-C measurment, the Fox 34 is 552.8mm if I recall.

    But either way, I still can't believe how proper of a fit this bike is for me, loving every aspect of it and more. I don't know how the guy at 6'6" feels comfortable on the regular 20 frame. I think keeping the 20" for myself would have been one big mistake.
    Completely agree with the fit - best bike I've owned.
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  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The Revelation has a 548mm A-2-C measurment, the Fox 34 is 552.8mm if I recall.

    But either way, I still can't believe how proper of a fit this bike is for me, loving every aspect of it and more. I don't know how the guy at 6'6" feels comfortable on the regular 20 frame. I think keeping the 20" for myself would have been one big mistake.
    To each their own.

    It works for me. From my perspective I wonder how someone shorter than me feels comfortable on the 20Long frame!
    I've said it before and I'll say it again riding style and the terrain you ride on has everyone choosing different sizing. Decisions are made from what you want out of the bike.

    Enjoy the ride!

  21. #221
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    Freehub Warranty Update:

    My shop got in touch with their distributor to get the freehub and was told that currently that there are none in stock in Canada!!
    My shop's next step is going to be to contact Kona to see what can be offered as a part/replacement.
    Originally my shop was going to avoid the dealing with warranty and just order the part to have me back on my bike in short order.

    In my emailing with Kona Warranty I was informed that I would have to go through Shimano for warranty on the freehub. Now that I've had time to contemplate this I find it a little silly that Kona would pass this off rather than dealing with it themselves.

    I've been off my Honzo, which is barely a month and a half old, for almost 2 weeks now! My giving leeway to Kona for having this issue sorted out is starting to run out!! If things aren't sorted out shortly with reasonable solution I'll soon be cursing Kona's name! ('cause, really, that's all I'll be able to do!)

    Oh well. At least I have another bike to ride. It is still disappointing that a brand new bike with brand new parts would crap out so quickly.


    --updating the update--
    My shop just called me and told me that they are sending the wheel back to Kona. Hopefully this sorts it out. Although, it means for turn-around it looks like another week and a half to 2 weeks before my Honzo is up and running with that wheel!

    My shop also said they searched for another compatible freehub but that it was closing in on impossible for availability. They also said they were looking at re-lacing it to a Saint hub but those are also sold out currently!
    What is up with the supply chain in Canada for Shimano parts?!!
    Last edited by RideEverything; 06-06-2012 at 01:02 PM. Reason: more update

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    In my emailing with Kona Warranty I was informed that I would have to go through Shimano for warranty on the freehub. Now that I've had time to contemplate this I find it a little silly that Kona would pass this off rather than dealing with it themselves.
    Kona is relatively small, with a relatively small production run of Honzos. The process would likely take longer if they had to bring in a wheel/hub for you, then ship it out to you. It's pretty unlikely that they have spare parts for every bike they sell just hanging around for warranty purposes.

    If I were you, I'd grab a new hub from your LBS and re-lace the wheel. Odds are the replacement hub will have the same problem.
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  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Kona is relatively small, with a relatively small production run of Honzos. The process would likely take longer if they had to bring in a wheel/hub for you, then ship it out to you. It's pretty unlikely that they have spare parts for every bike they sell just hanging around for warranty purposes.

    If I were you, I'd grab a new hub from your LBS and re-lace the wheel. Odds are the replacement hub will have the same problem.
    I understand your point. However, as a bike manufacturer they may have an easier time and/or better access in procuring said part than a bike shop.
    A bike is a sum of its parts. not just a frame.
    If bike companies aren't going to help out people when they have issue with parts then why do they sell their frames as a complete package with parts? (that is a rhetorical question)

    And, I am currently figuring out my finances to buy a new wheelset. When I get the current wheelset fixed they will be relegated to a back-up pair.

  24. #224
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    That is the normal deal. Rockshox, Shimano, Mavic, whoever run their own house. They don't let anyone else replace the stuff.

    What used to happen is the folks at a bike company would look the other way and bribe people with free Suntour parts or whatever. Then they'd go back to the supplier and say pay us for all this stuff we gave away or we're not using your parts next year. The bigger the bike company the more of a problem it became. If the sticker says Avid it goes to one place and if it says Kona or Shimano it goes somewhere else. The bike shop gets to sort that all out.

  25. #225
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    A change in parts!

    So, it's closing in on 2 months since the original rear wheel/freehub gave it up.
    I'm still waiting on the the warranty replacement.

    However, things aren't as depressing as they sound. I just sold a bike to finance a new wheelset and some bling for the Honzo.
    I picked up the SunRingle Charger Pro 29" wheels for a killer deal, a new Chomag Trailmaster saddle - again, for a great deal, and new matchy matchy Chromag Fubars OSX! (I think they are wider than my other OSX bars on my other bike!) Along with some Chromag decals to bling the frame out as well!

    I went for my first rip in 2 months on this bike this afternoon to make sure the Honzo is set-up and running right.
    I forgot how much fun this bike is!!

    Here's some bike pr0n pics:
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p6215532.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p6215533.jpg


    Now I am just waiting on the original rear wheel to come back from warranty and it will be relegated to back-up status.'Cuz a big aggressive rider is gunna have to fix something at some point during the riding season!

  26. #226
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    The sun is out but the water is very high.

    Bike looks good though!

  27. #227
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    Those of you with a 20" inch regular frame (not long), how tall are you? I am around 6'1.5" and currently have a 19" Jamis Exiler 29er with a 120mm stem. I've always felt that the bike could have been a little bigger, but I bought it without a test ride because it was not in stock anywhere close to me. When I stand to pedal, I kinda feel like I am too far forward over the front tire with the fork under me. I would definetly use a short 50mm stem for the Honzo. The 20L is definetly too big/long for me, but a 18" might be too small.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    Last edited by BlackSheep01; 06-22-2012 at 02:38 PM.

  28. #228
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    I am 5'11" on an 18....feels perfect. IMO you are right on with your thoughts on the 20" being the correct size. The Honzo responds when you stand up to pedal on climbs, and even at my height I have to consciously shift my weight back at times. Based on what you say you would probably feel way too far out front on the 18.

    I am sure there are 20" riders who can give you more specific feedback out there....hope you get it sorted out - the bike is a blast!
    Last edited by CBizzie; 06-22-2012 at 05:49 PM.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBizzie View Post
    I am 5'11" on an 18....feels perfect. IMO you are right on with your thoughts on the 20" being the correct size. The Honzo responds when you stand up to pedal on climbs, and even at my height I have to consciously shift my weight back at times. Based on what you say you would probably feel way too far out front on the 20.

    I am sure there are 20" riders who can give you more specific feedback out there....hope you get it sorted out - the bike is a blast!
    Which is it?
    Is the 20" the right size or not?

  30. #230
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    Ooops...my bad.......I meant you would feel too far out on the 18....I fixed it...

    Thanks Ride Everything!...

  31. #231
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    Im 5'11 on a 18 inch with a 90mm stem and a setback post. The Honzo is a big bike and the 18 feels perfect for me as well. I also agree that at 6'1 the 20 R is the right size for you.

  32. #232
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    I would get the 20R if I was you. IMO these bikes fit smaller than the geo charts (especially ETT) lead you to believe. I'm on a 20L, 6'4" and loving every minute of it.
    konahonzo

  33. #233
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    A couple of changes to the initial build but super stoked on the new fork. Gone is the 2012 Fox Talas 34 FIT RLC in favor of a 2012 Fox Float 34 FIT RLC in Black.

    konahonzo

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    A couple of changes to the initial build but super stoked on the new fork. Gone is the 2012 Fox Talas 34 FIT RLC in favor of a 2012 Fox Float 34 FIT RLC in Black.

    That looks bad ass!!

    My black f29 is actually in for warranty for a creaking stanchion/crown steerer tube interface. It's a problem fox is having trouble fixing. What do you have the fork set at?

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    What do you have the fork set at?
    140mm. And plush.
    konahonzo

  36. #236
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    Beefy stanchions! Do you notice any sticktion?

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by howard619 View Post
    Beefy stanchions! Do you notice any sticktion?
    None whatsoever. Has been smoother out of the box than the Talas 34. I can't wait to get it broken in completely!
    konahonzo

  38. #238
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    Thanks for the sizing feedback guys. I went ahead and pulled the trigger and bought a 20" from Bikeman.

    This will be my first build so I am excited.

  39. #239
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    I just bought a Honzo frame. Did a build up with a 100mm fork I had, and it actually rides ok. Could be ok for marathons. But I am going to get a new fork, but torn between a 120 (that it is actually designed for) and a 140mm. Worried that the 140 might make it toooo slack.
    Any recommendations?

    Thanx
    J

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by janowitz View Post
    I just bought a Honzo frame. Did a build up with a 100mm fork I had, and it actually rides ok. Could be ok for marathons. But I am going to get a new fork, but torn between a 120 (that it is actually designed for) and a 140mm. Worried that the 140 might make it toooo slack.
    Any recommendations?

    Thanx
    J
    I recommend that you buy a fork that can do either, by adding or removing a spacer.

    Also note that I believe the geo numbers on the honzo are based off of an unsagged 120mm fork - someone correct me if I'm wrong.

    Finally, the Axle to Crown measurements of some forks are longer than others. For example, the 140mm Revelation is slightly shorter than the 140mm Fox 34. This means you could get away with a bit more travel, without changing the geo as much.

    I think Eurospek will chime in with proper numbers
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  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    I recommend that you buy a fork that can do either, by adding or removing a spacer.

    Also note that I believe the geo numbers on the honzo are based off of an unsagged 120mm fork - someone correct me if I'm wrong.

    Finally, the Axle to Crown measurements of some forks are longer than others. For example, the 140mm Revelation is slightly shorter than the 140mm Fox 34. This means you could get away with a bit more travel, without changing the geo as much.

    I think Eurospek will chime in with proper numbers
    Like noot said get a 140mm fork and try it out. You can always spaced it down to 130,120,110 if you don't like it. I first had mine at 110 and I thought I loved it, until I started smacking my pedals, and then tried out 140mm. It's superb at that setting, especially setting the fork to plush with quite a bit of sag.

    As for A-2-C numbers, Revelation 140 is 548mm and the Fox 34 is 552mm.
    konahonzo

  42. #242
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    My Honzo size 18"
    XLC 780mm handelbar
    Spiderless HB 30T
    XLC seatpost 100mm


  43. #243
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    got this guy a few weeks back, and it sure is a fun whip. I love the big sizing, the lateral stiffness, the generally rad geometry. tons of fun.



    built up with a full 770 XT kit, and a spare saint mech I had lying around for shifting. thing is silent down hills between the short cage and the double-layered chainstay protection. It's right around 29lbs as shown (20L), but I added a reverb which made it so much better.

  44. #244
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    ^ Short or medium Saint mech? What cassette are you using? Trying to find out if I can use a Saint SS with 12-36 cassette?
    konahonzo

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ^ Short or medium Saint mech? What cassette are you using? Trying to find out if I can use a Saint SS with 12-36 cassette?
    It's a super-short on an 11-34 xt m-770. It might fit with a 36T, but it would be really close I'd imagine.

    There is a little extra space for the derailleur to swing up into when in the 34, and tension is still pretty good in the smaller cogs, so it might work, but you'd need to be wary of not doing really rough descents in your 36 (not that you would be anyway, but still).

    Best bet is to give shimano a call. they've usually been very helpful when I've called in wondering about compatibility when I'm building franken-parts. I can probably shoot a few pictures of the fitment when I get home though...

  46. #246
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    Just got my Honzo frame in the mail today and noticed that there is small rectangular area of steel exposed on the underside of the bottom bracket where the serial number is located. It looks like the frame was painted with a label on, which was then taken off afterwards. Is this typical for the Honzo? If so, what did you guys do to protect this area from rust?

  47. #247
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    You mean like this?

    They all come like that, I wouldn't worry about it much. Just Frame Saver the inside.

    konahonzo

  48. #248
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    Took my Honzo on a 4-day trip to the rockies here in Canada. All I have to say is, the bike keeps getting better and better.

    The steel frame is incredible - I'm a full convert. One of the trails consists of a TON of roots. Several 4-6" tall roots per foot of trail, it's literally a tooth-rattler. Well, it used to be.

    For the first time on this trail, my hands didn't hurt (thank you Revelation). This bike feels like a full-suspension frame, and I was running higher rear tire pressure than I normally do (30PSI). I actually couldn't believe the difference, I'm sure I was annoying the hell out of my friends ranting and raving about it every time we stopped to catch our breath.


    This pic was taken on day 2 on an extremely wet trail - NOT the technical one I was talking about above. Several sections were washed out, and we had some waist-deep creek crossings The next day, it snowed. Gotta love Canada

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  49. #249
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    I Just bought my stock assembled Honzo last month - fantastic bike - great ride. I've never customized a bike, but putting in 40+mi a week of mixed trail & seeing problems posted with the rear hub has me thinking about changing out some bits, or being prepared to. At 34lbs stock, I wouldn't mind shedding some weight with upgrades, though nothing seems to be wearing poorly. Seems like wheels, hubs & crank(set or arms?) are the most mentioned. I don't want to drop a ton of cash on anything that can't take a beating. So, suggestions on a parts diet for my big blue pig?

  50. #250
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    Honzo Upgrades

    Upgraded to a Flow EX wheelset, PRO 740mm bar Thomas Vanderham 8/4 rise/sweep, and Fox DOSS 5" dropper:





















    Pics are here: Jul 19, 2012 - a set on Flickr

    I'm loving all the upgrades, but the DOSS really just blows me away. I never had a dropper post before, so I would just work around it and lower the seat if there was a long descent. Then I realized how much more fun it is to descend and ride in general with the seat slammed, so I rode around for the last 4 months with it slammed and just rode standing. I got real strong, but rides were tough, even short ones. So, now I have the DOSS and I'm loving it. I like that it's mechanical, and I find the mid position very useful. Let me know if you have any questions.
    Last edited by carabao; 07-20-2012 at 01:00 PM.

  51. #251
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    Glad to see your fork back up and running, did they just replace the CSU?
    konahonzo

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Glad to see your fork back up and running, did they just replace the CSU?
    Entire uppers, stanchions, csu, steerer, and they rebuilt it. I'm happy the noise is gone.

  53. #253
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    Just Completed Build

    Just finished Honzo Single Speed build after approx 3 months of shopping for the right parts at the right price. Just a few shake down rides so far but feels pretty nice. Other bike is GF Roscoe III all mountain so different riding experience which is fun.

    18" Frame
    Fox Float 29 Fork
    Shimano XT M785 ICE Brakes 180F/160R
    Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.25
    Truvativ Stylo 1.1G Crank set
    Niner 18t Cog
    Bontrager Bars, Grips and Seat Post - OEM take offs from other bike.
    Truvative AKA 60mm Stem
    Cane Creek 40 Headset
    Koobi Enduro PRS Saddle
    "Chinese" Carbon Rims
    Hope Pro 2 EVO Hubs
    DT Swiss Comp Spokes
    Alloy Nibbles
    Bontrager Rim Strips and Valves

    Spreadsheet weight w/o peddles - 24.68Lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo1.jpg  

    Last edited by tktaylor; 07-21-2012 at 07:37 PM. Reason: Forgot Title

  54. #254
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    Very nice build! How are those rims?
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  55. #255
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    Very impressed with the carbon rims. They build up nice. Stiff and light which is especially helpful on a SS.

  56. #256
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    So there were questions posed about the Shimano Saint M810 Saint SS derailleur working with a 12-36 cassette but I took a gamble and it has certainly paid off.

    Bought a new Shimano M810 Saint SS derailleur and installed it today. No problems whatsoever with the 12-36 cassette (I was worried about the 36T cog as the Saint is rated to a 11-34) and it shifts so much better than the Shimano SLX GS derailleur that I had before.

    Crisp, instantaneous, and zero slop compared to before. Chain tension is also greater. I have it paired with a Shimano SLX shifter. I couldn't be happier with this upgrade and the results.

    konahonzo

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    You mean like this?

    They all come like that, I wouldn't worry about it much. Just Frame Saver the inside.
    Did you Frame Saver yours? I couldn't find Frame Saver anywhere (always out of stock) so I tried Boeshield T-9 because it sounded like a good alternative and some people recommended it, but the T-9 stuff just won't stick or solidify. It's been over 5 days since I sprayed the insides and when I rotate the frame some of the T-9 still leaks out.

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSheep01 View Post
    Did you Frame Saver yours? I couldn't find Frame Saver anywhere (always out of stock) so I tried Boeshield T-9 because it sounded like a good alternative and some people recommended it, but the T-9 stuff just won't stick or solidify. It's been over 5 days since I sprayed the insides and when I rotate the frame some of the T-9 still leaks out.
    Sure did. About 4 coats or so.
    konahonzo

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    So there were questions posed about the Shimano Saint M810 Saint SS derailleur working with a 12-36 cassette but I took a gamble and it has certainly paid off.

    Bought a new Shimano M810 Saint SS derailleur and installed it today. No problems whatsoever with the 12-36 cassette (I was worried about the 36T cog as the Saint is rated to a 11-34) and it shifts so much better than the Shimano SLX GS derailleur that I had before.

    Crisp, instantaneous, and zero slop compared to before. Chain tension is also greater. I have it paired with a Shimano SLX shifter. I couldn't be happier with this upgrade and the results.
    If Brian Lopes rode for Kona, he would ride a Honzo with a similar build I read that he rides with SLX cranks, shifter, and of course has the Lopes guide. How do you like the guide? Does the chain touch the upper guide at all? How bout the pulley...any noise from it?

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by howard619 View Post
    If Brian Lopes rode for Kona, he would ride a Honzo with a similar build I read that he rides with SLX cranks, shifter, and of course has the Lopes guide. How do you like the guide? Does the chain touch the upper guide at all? How bout the pulley...any noise from it?
    Lol, kinda true. I read that article as well about the SLX shifter and not liking the mufti-release function.

    I like the guide a lot. It was definitely expensive for what it is but it serves its purpose. No noise at all, (from the upper guide rubbing or pulley noise) but you have to be careful when tightening the bolts. The guides are really touchy to being tightened too much and they crack around the bolt area. Already had replaced the upper guide for this reason. And if they aren't tight enough, I had one instance where the upper guide somehow moved a few mm down and rubbed on the cranks. (Which I think might have led it it cracking and before I caught this, I thought my XT BB went and was grinding every pedal stroke, didn't think to check the guide right away)

    Also like the E13 TRS+ guide but it's rated for a 33T-38T chainring. No idea why not a 32T, but currently where my upper guide of the MRP sits isn't at the 32T mark anyway, it rubs quite a bit on the cranks at that level. It's somewhere between 32 and 34. And my chainring is an E13 Guidering 32T.
    konahonzo

  61. #261
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    Some updated pictures, recently got a Thomson seatpost & stem as well as a Bontrager Evoke RXL saddle, Hope QR seat clamp and a Sunline flatbar. The more I ride it, the more it seems to come alive and the reduced weight never hurts
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-006.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-015.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-014.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-016.jpg  

    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    ... recently got a Thomson seatpost...
    Looks like yours slips like mine...

  63. #263
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    If your thompson seatpost is slipping, the fix that worked for me was toothpaste. It provides just enough grit and thickness to stop it. I run a fox dropper now and it hasn't budged.

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    If your thompson seatpost is slipping, the fix that worked for me was toothpaste. It provides just enough grit and thickness to stop it. I run a fox dropper now and it hasn't budged.
    With the toothpaste method?

    For the longest, I ran my Reverb post with the SRAM recommended use of friction paste and couldn't track down an annoying creaking of the post/saddle for a few months now. It creaked with every pedal stroke and bump of the trail. I tried everything from different lubes on the rails to trying different clamping forces as SRAM says to use the least amount possible to prevent slipping as the Reverb can bind with a tight seat clamp. I even went as far as buying a new clamping kit for the saddle on the Reverb.

    Anyway, in the last attempt of getting rid of the creaking and almost thinking of putting a Thomson post in (as my Reverb slipped A LOT with little seat clamp pressure, but then creaked only ever so often). It was quite aggravating, either dealing with the loud creaking or constantly readjusting my Chromag QR bolt and tightness and adjusting the post position. I decided to wipe off all the friction paste and return to my grease of choice, Rock N Roll Red Devil grease. A light coating on the Reverb, the Chromag QR is tight but not gorilla fisted, and my Reverb works wonderfully now. It doesn't bind, but more importantly it's dead quiet on the trails now, even with hard pedaling.
    konahonzo

  65. #265
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    Can someone with a 18" Honzo and 120mm fork measure actual standover ,at about the front of the chain ring?

    Thanks in advance
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  66. #266
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    [QUOTE=eurospek;9553271]With the toothpaste method?

    Toothpaste was for the Thompson. I just use a light grease for the dropper.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    If your thompson seatpost is slipping, the fix that worked for me was toothpaste. It provides just enough grit and thickness to stop it. I run a fox dropper now and it hasn't budged.
    Initially, I was using grease and the stock Kona seat clamp and noticed my post had slipped after just a quick ride so I got myself the Hope clamp, cleaned the grease out and replaced it with some Finish Line carbon fibre assembly compound (the really gritty stuff) and made a little shim from a pop can and it has worked fine since then, no slipping or creaking.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Can someone with a 18" Honzo and 120mm fork measure actual standover ,at about the front of the chain ring?

    Thanks in advance
    NJ...

    Just checked mine and it's right about 30" at the front of the chainring....

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    ... as well as a Bontrager Evoke RXL saddle
    Beauty saddle! Do you like yours as much as I like mine? I foresee myself throwing one on every bike I own.
    2016 Honzo Ti
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  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBizzie View Post
    NJ...

    Just checked mine and it's right about 30" at the front of the chainring....
    Thanks CBizzie!!
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Beauty saddle! Do you like yours as much as I like mine? I foresee myself throwing one on every bike I own.
    I love mine, easily the most comfortable saddle I've ever used. Even on days when I'm sore from long rides, it stays comfortable the whole time I'm on it. Plus the fact that it weighs next to nothing never hurts
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  72. #272
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    Nothing I really want from the new Honzo: KONAWORLD

    I like the 2012 color better, and I think if I really wanted 12x142 I could swap out the dropouts, not sure. It's tough to tell, but I think it has the exact same chainstay yoke. The geo hasn't changed except for more slope in the top tube.

  73. #273
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    I hope they release the 12x142 dropouts so we can switch them out if we want, that would be a major upgrade IMO.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    I hope they release the 12x142 dropouts so we can switch them out if we want, that would be a major upgrade IMO.
    I just talked to some at Kona the other day, and according to him, they will be selling just the 142x12 dropouts in the next month or two. He also mentioned that it would raise the BB height a few mm too.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Nothing I really want from the new Honzo: KONAWORLD

    I like the 2012 color better, and I think if I really wanted 12x142 I could swap out the dropouts, not sure. It's tough to tell, but I think it has the exact same chainstay yoke. The geo hasn't changed except for more slope in the top tube.


    Well,at least the stickers are better

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    Well,at least the stickers are better
    You're kidding right?

    Overall, it's like 2 step backwards in the design/color/decal department. It just doesn't mesh well with me.

    While on the other hand I love my 2012 even more, and this is one frameset that I don't want to upgrade with the new one coming one.

    As for the 142x12 dropouts, I read that will be 100% compatible with our 2012 Honzos. Too bad I don't have the proper wheelset.

    Yet.
    konahonzo

  77. #277
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    It is a nice move forward in everything but looks.

    Price goes up by $100, but you get some nice upgrades at the price.

    The standard 142x12's, a much nicer rim than the old bike, better drive train and brakes, slightly more clearance for the twins.

    Fork is a "downgrade", but I have not ran into any issues with the solo air.


    I cannot find a frame only 2012 in my size, and was thinking about an intermediary until a production Chromag frame is released. At this point, the color alone on this Kona is pushing me toward a Diamondback Mason, which leaves me with a better build and starting point looking to the future.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by el_chupo_ View Post
    It is a nice move forward in everything but looks.
    I cannot find a frame only 2012 in my size, and was thinking about an intermediary until a production Chromag frame is released. At this point, the color alone on this Kona is pushing me toward a Diamondback Mason, which leaves me with a better build and starting point looking to the future.
    Did you try bikeman.com? That's where I got mine. Only the 18" is not available right now, but then that's exactly what you might need.

  79. #279
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    The specs for the 2013 show 142x12 dropouts for a RockShox MAXLE. Anyone know if this is compatible with a Syntace 142x12 hub and axle system?

  80. #280
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    Bikeman is where I have been watching for the past few weeks, and I need the 18" size.

    There is one on ebay, complete, but I would be using so little of their build that it isnt worth the time and effort to do anything with.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by el_chupo_ View Post
    It is a nice move forward in everything but looks.

    Price goes up by $100, but you get some nice upgrades at the price.

    The standard 142x12's, a much nicer rim than the old bike, better drive train and brakes, slightly more clearance for the twins.

    Fork is a "downgrade", but I have not ran into any issues with the solo air.


    I cannot find a frame only 2012 in my size, and was thinking about an intermediary until a production Chromag frame is released. At this point, the color alone on this Kona is pushing me toward a Diamondback Mason, which leaves me with a better build and starting point looking to the future.
    Finally looked at the high res pic online vs on the phone and I thought it was a matte gold with orange graphics, it looks more like raw finish with a gold tint clear. Still meh on it, maybe if the finish was like the old 2012 Steely (dark raw finish)that would be much better.

    For the 18" try these guys too Home - The Path Bike Shop
    konahonzo

  82. #282
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    I am with eurospek....definitely like the blue of the 2012 better. Interesting they took the Honzo out of the "gravity" categorization...makes a bit more sense to me.

    Also - saw in another thread they now have the Taro (aluminum Honzo) for quite a bit less I see....

    I just got an email response from Kona re: the 142x12 dropouts. Essentially was told "we are working on them" and to stay in touch with my LBS...

  83. #283
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    Did they say where we would be able to get them from/through? as well as what the cost would be, and whether or not the thru axle would come with the dropouts.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    Did they say where we would be able to get them from/through? as well as what the cost would be, and whether or not the thru axle would come with the dropouts.
    Pretty sure from here when they will be available soon.

    http://shop.konaworld.com/products.php?product=Derailleur-Hanger{47}dropouts

    As for the current Honzo, we need the CC type hangers. Ask me how I know.
    konahonzo

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    You're kidding right?

    Overall, it's like 2 step backwards in the design/color/decal department. It just doesn't mesh well with me.

    While on the other hand I love my 2012 even more, and this is one frameset that I don't want to upgrade with the new one coming one.

    As for the 142x12 dropouts, I read that will be 100% compatible with our 2012 Honzos. Too bad I don't have the proper wheelset.

    Yet.


    I don't really care for the finish,but I'm surely a fan of the mid-90's style decals,looks like Kona gave different design graphics for each marketing niche this year,maybe they thought steel hardtail would appeal to old grumps like me

    I will say I've been surfing through Retrobike quite a bit lately,biasing my tastes

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Pretty sure from here when they will be available soon.

    http://shop.konaworld.com/products.php?product=Derailleur-Hanger{47}dropouts

    As for the current Honzo, we need the CC type hangers. Ask me how I know.
    And how do you know that we'll need the CC type?
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    And how do you know that we'll need the CC type?
    I can't figure out what CC means, seriously.

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I can't figure out what CC means, seriously.
    +1 ....... help us out 'spek

  89. #289
    the air is thin up here..
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBizzie View Post
    +1 ....... help us out 'spek
    It's a dropout code.

    https://shop.konaworld.com/eu/produc...2C-Singlespeed

    https://shop.konaworld.com/eu/produc...t-side-dropout
    2016 Honzo Ti
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  90. #290
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    Like noot linked, CC is the derailleur type for the 2012 Honzo, like I stated, "As for the current Honzo, we need the CC type hangers. Ask me how I know." I had to replace my drive side hanger a while ago.
    konahonzo

  91. #291
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    Anyone know if the dropouts will be available in Canada?
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    Did they say where we would be able to get them from/through? as well as what the cost would be, and whether or not the thru axle would come with the dropouts.
    An email response from Kona Tech indicated that they dropouts would not be available online and suggested that I contact a local dealer. I also talked to someone on the phone at the Kona Store and he confirmed that they would not show up on the USA store for awhile, however I could place an order over the phone with them.

    No hint at price was given. The droupouts shown on the international store are sold individually, not in pairs (drive and non-drive sides). So I assume an MAXLE will not be included, espicially since it costs around $50 by itself.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSheep01 View Post
    An email response from Kona Tech indicated that they dropouts would not be available online and suggested that I contact a local dealer. I also talked to someone on the phone at the Kona Store and he confirmed that they would not show up on the USA store for awhile, however I could place an order over the phone with them.

    No hint at price was given. The droupouts shown on the international store are sold individually, not in pairs (drive and non-drive sides). So I assume an MAXLE will not be included, espicially since it costs around $50 by itself.
    My guess is $30 per side + the cost of the Maxle. About 1/5 of the Honzo's original frame price.
    konahonzo

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    My guess is $30 per side + the cost of the Maxle. About 1/5 of the Honzo's original frame price.
    That's a lot, considering that I'd also need to get a different axle and endcaps for my rear wheel which would be about $60 from CRC. I'd rather spend a couple hundred somewhere else that would be a better upgrade, like going 10 speed with the new ZEE stuff from shimano.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    That's a lot, considering that I'd also need to get a different axle and endcaps for my rear wheel which would be about $60 from CRC. I'd rather spend a couple hundred somewhere else that would be a better upgrade, like going 10 speed with the new ZEE stuff from shimano.
    I'm not going to be upgrading unless I'll have the need of a new wheelset, but so far the Sun-Ringle Charger Experts have exceeded my expectations and then some.
    konahonzo

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I'm not going to be upgrading unless I'll have the need of a new wheelset, but so far the Sun-Ringle Charger Experts have exceeded my expectations and then some.
    The wheels I built for mine are totally awesome so far, so the only real reason I would have for getting the dropouts would be so I can angle/point the lever backwards. Currently with the fixing bolts for the dropouts where they are, I can't seem to be able to close the QR securely enough with it pointing any direction other than forward.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  97. #297
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    Any of you guys running the new Shimano XT M785 brakes? I'm looking to upgrade, just don't know what rotor size, stick with 203/180, 180/180 or 180/160? Supposedly these are some powerful brakes.
    konahonzo

  98. #298
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    Hey all, great bikes! Just a couple questions though. Did you all start with the frame and build up from there or did any of you buy the fully built bike and tweak it as you saw fit. Is there a reason not to go with the built bike from Kona (i.e. cheap component spec, etc.)

    Second question, what led you to pick the Honzo over the other bikes in the genre. I'm currently considering an AM29 for my next bike and have narrowed it down to the Honzo, Paradox, or new Mason. The Stache from Trek may make the short list if the reviews are positive, however I doubt they'll have a build as nice as the Mason (Fox 34 Talus, KS dropper, X9) for a similar price if not more.

    Thanks again.

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectBomber View Post
    Hey all, great bikes! Just a couple questions though. Did you all start with the frame and build up from there or did any of you buy the fully built bike and tweak it as you saw fit. Is there a reason not to go with the built bike from Kona (i.e. cheap component spec, etc.)

    Second question, what led you to pick the Honzo over the other bikes in the genre. I'm currently considering an AM29 for my next bike and have narrowed it down to the Honzo, Paradox, or new Mason. The Stache from Trek may make the short list if the reviews are positive, however I doubt they'll have a build as nice as the Mason (Fox 34 Talus, KS dropper, X9) for a similar price if not more.

    Thanks again.
    The Mason complete has an awesome spec for $2100 (current price on Jensonusa.com). I don't think any complete bike (Honzo, TransAM 29, Paradox) can touch it.
    konahonzo

  100. #300
    the air is thin up here..
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectBomber View Post
    Hey all, great bikes! Just a couple questions though. Did you all start with the frame and build up from there or did any of you buy the fully built bike and tweak it as you saw fit. Is there a reason not to go with the built bike from Kona (i.e. cheap component spec, etc.)

    Second question, what led you to pick the Honzo over the other bikes in the genre. I'm currently considering an AM29 for my next bike and have narrowed it down to the Honzo, Paradox, or new Mason. The Stache from Trek may make the short list if the reviews are positive, however I doubt they'll have a build as nice as the Mason (Fox 34 Talus, KS dropper, X9) for a similar price if not more.

    Thanks again.
    Frame up for me.

    That Mason is a sick build for the price. Pretty slack head angle though...

    For that price, it might be worth buying and riding it. Once you've got some time on it, you could pick up another frame if you wanted (ie - Honzo) and probably still come out way ahead price-wise.
    2016 Honzo Ti
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