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  1. #2601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dines View Post
    Ordered a 2016 ST frame and in the process of getting all the stuff to build it up. But I'm uncertain regarding what headset to use. Can this FSA Z-t Eco headset work: FSA Z-t Eco Headset | Headsets Shop

    Head tube: Tapered 1 1/8 "- 1 1/2"

    Above: ZS44 / 1 1/8 "- semi-intergriert
    Below: IS52 / 1 1/2 "- full-intergriert
    44 upper, 56 lower, I went cane creek forty series zero stack upper and lower

  2. #2602
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    +1 Cane creek 40. Lasts forever and perfectly.

  3. #2603
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ftb90 View Post
    ST. I guess it's just just a matter of me not being familiar with the maxle. It didn't seem like I was able to get it tighten up completely. Leaving a little play in between the hub and dropout. I'll fool with it a little more tomorrow and see if I can figure it out.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
    I think I like the older maxle better. You could snug it all the way down, clamp it, and then set the position of the arm because it spun freely rather fixed like a qr/new maxle.

  4. #2604
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    Thx guys, seems the cane creek 40 is exceptionally hard to find in Europe. Hope has a semi-integrated tapered one and from what I can read it should be the same as Zero Stack right?

  5. #2605
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dines View Post
    Thx guys, seems the cane creek 40 is exceptionally hard to find in Europe. Hope has a semi-integrated tapered one and from what I can read it should be the same as Zero Stack right?
    If you want FSA this is what you need..
    FSA No.57 - Orbit 1.5 ZS Tapered - FSA

  6. #2606
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    Try a Nukeproof maybe??

    Quote Originally Posted by Dines View Post
    Thx guys, seems the cane creek 40 is exceptionally hard to find in Europe. Hope has a semi-integrated tapered one and from what I can read it should be the same as Zero Stack right?
    konahonzo

  7. #2607
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    CC40 is available through chain reaction, it is in separate pieces. Upper and lower cups, you still want a zs44 upper and zs56 lower.

  8. #2608
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    Thx Beer, but it seems the separate cups are cheaper than the complete, do you need something more than the upper and lower cups?

  9. #2609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dines View Post
    Thx Beer, but it seems the separate cups are cheaper than the complete, do you need something more than the upper and lower cups?
    The cups should include the bearings - not sure those are sold separately. Also, the top cap (I don't know what they are called but its the cap that goes over the upper bearing) and also the crown race that you press on the fork - that might come with the lower cup/bearing though.

  10. #2610
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    I just checked on artscyclery, the upper definitely includes that upper piece and the top cap that preloads with the steerer tube. The picture of the lower assembly looks like the race is included, but it doesn't mention it in the description so not 100% sure

  11. #2611
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    Sorry for the dumb question but I don't have my Honzo accessible at the moment and I can't seem to find this information on the Kona site. Can anyone tell me what size dropper post I would need for my 2015 Honzo?

  12. #2612
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Mackenzie View Post
    Sorry for the dumb question but I don't have my Honzo accessible at the moment and I can't seem to find this information on the Kona site. Can anyone tell me what size dropper post I would need for my 2015 Honzo?
    31.6 diameter. You will have to decide what length is suitable for you - don't forget to take into account the max insert depth on this frame, the bend in the seat tube can make it quite short depending on the size of your frame

  13. #2613
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    Thx a lot sb666.

  14. #2614
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    31.6 diameter. You will have to decide what length is suitable for you - don't forget to take into account the max insert depth on this frame, the bend in the seat tube can make it quite short depending on the size of your frame
    Cool thanks. That's some good insight I didn't even take the length into consideration. Gotta go figure that out now! I have a medium frame and was trying to decide on 75mm or 100mm.

  15. #2615
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    Got my large Honzo ST on friday last week after ~six weeks of waiting in Europe. It's awesome










  16. #2616
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    This is my first bike with a maxle so I apologize for any ignorance. But the rear axle just doesn't seem to snug up and have tension when locking like the front axle of my pike. At first I thought it was just because I didn't have the wheel on. But now that everything is together, it still doesnt seem right. Is this normal for the new honzo/rear maxle?

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  17. #2617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ftb90 View Post
    This is my first bike with a maxle so I apologize for any ignorance. But the rear axle just doesn't seem to snug up and have tension when locking like the front axle of my pike. At first I thought it was just because I didn't have the wheel on. But now that everything is together, it still doesnt seem right. Is this normal for the new honzo/rear maxle?

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
    The rear Maxle is crap... You really need to tighten it down pretty hard. Try cranking it harder and see if that works. Also, if you find its loosening up on the trail you may need to put a drop of thread locker (I had to) - but make sure it's really just a drop or 2

  18. #2618
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    My front maxle got loose on my Honzo i just tigthened the allen bolt in the center of the axle in it snugs. Tighten with caution dont tighten too much

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-maxle_comparison10s.jpg

  19. #2619
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    With the maxle all the way tightened and flipped closed, there's still play between the drop out and frame. I can physically move the chainstay in towards the hub with my hands. If that makes sense.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  20. #2620
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3names View Post
    My front maxle got loose on my Honzo i just tigthened the allen bolt in the center of the axle in it snugs. Tighten with caution dont tighten too much

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I looked for a set screw to tighten and this one does not have that.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  21. #2621
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ftb90 View Post
    With the maxle all the way tightened and flipped closed, there's still play between the drop out and frame. I can physically move the chainstay in towards the hub with my hands. If that makes sense.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
    Oh that's gotta be an issue with your hub spacing then. Is it a hub that was converted from QR to 142x12 thru axle? Its possible that it needs a spacer. How much of a gap do you have between your chainstay and the cassette/hub? What kind of rear hub is it?

  22. #2622
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    Oh that's gotta be an issue with your hub spacing then. Is it a hub that was converted from QR to 142x12 thru axle? Its possible that it needs a spacer. How much of a gap do you have between your chainstay and the cassette/hub? What kind of rear hub is it?
    Yeah, Its a hope pro evo 2. I converted it from qr to 142x12. With the maxle tight and closed there's about 1-2mm.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  23. #2623
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ftb90 View Post
    Yeah, Its a hope pro evo 2. I converted it from qr to 142x12. With the maxle tight and closed there's about 1-2mm.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
    Huh. I am running the same hub but got the 142x12 out of the box, did not convert. It's possible that some sort of spacer is needed due to the conversion but Im just not sure. Tough to say without seeing it in person, seems strange that it would only be 1-2 mm, I would have assumed at least a cm if it were a spaced issue.

  24. #2624
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    Huh. I am running the same hub but got the 142x12 out of the box, did not convert. It's possible that some sort of spacer is needed due to the conversion but Im just not sure. Tough to say without seeing it in person, seems strange that it would only be 1-2 mm, I would have assumed at least a cm if it were a spaced issue.
    Is it possible I bought the wrong conversion kit?

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/m...t/rp-prod68578

    I got the 12mm bolt thru.

    In the description it says x12 requires a spacer. But I didn't order that version. Not really sure what x12 is. Maybe I need x12 with a spacer?

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  25. #2625
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    Yes, I believe you need the x12. The 12mm bolt thru is 135 x 12 if I recall correctly. To be sure, email Hope and ask them - they are great witwith emails. But I'm pretty sure that's your problem.

  26. #2626
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    I ordered the x12 kit after doing a little more research. Thanks for the help. I'll post pics of my build once it's finished.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  27. #2627
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    Hey just a question. I might put some goodies on my Honzo over the winter. The question i have is there any angleset for Honzo. I have a 2014. I am not that familiar with headsets so i am not sure.

    Plus the 46 vs 51 offset forks. If i put a 140mm fork i need to get 51 offset for quicker steering, the 46 will feel slow? Am i right?

  28. #2628
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    Anyone running a 180mm rear rotor, will it even fit?

  29. #2629
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideSwipe View Post
    Anyone running a 180mm rear rotor, will it even fit?
    There's more than enough room for a 180

  30. #2630
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach17 View Post
    There's more than enough room for a 180
    Great, thanks for the info, slowly piecing mine together..

  31. #2631
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    Original Honzo owner here. I'm running an 18" frame and torn on sizing for a 2016 replacement.

    At 5.9" the reach is ok on my current frame, though a touch short with 140mm forks.

    Naturally assumed i'd get a medium but now i'm second guessing the reach increase on the 2016 large frame. Unable to currently test one out here in the north of the UK, so wondering if anyone has any clear recommendations for either size?

  32. #2632
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    Ordering an eten dropper for my 2014 honzo. I'm pretty sure the 30.9 diameter will work but just want to double check. Any help.

  33. #2633
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    Quote Originally Posted by cburgin View Post
    Ordering an eten dropper for my 2014 honzo. I'm pretty sure the 30.9 diameter will work but just want to double check. Any help.
    Seat tube is 31.6, you can make the 30.9 work with a shim - they cost less than $10

  34. #2634
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideSwipe View Post
    Anyone running a 180mm rear rotor, will it even fit?
    I'm running 200mm rotors front and rear on a 2012 Honzo and have no clearance issues on the rear rotor.

  35. #2635
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    That's great news thanks RideEverything

  36. #2636
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    Thanks. Noticed as I went to order the eten that they have a 31.6 diameter post. I'm hoping they 31.6 is right on my 2014.
    Last edited by CB2423; 10-18-2015 at 10:54 AM.

  37. #2637
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    All years of the Honzo have a 31.6 seat post diameter.

  38. #2638
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    Hello all,

    I have a 2014 Kona Honzo I just bought a 130mm Pike for it to upgrade from the revelation... I am thinking about changing out the stock headset to a Cane Creek 40 series but I remember seeing in this thread or another one ( I cant seem to find it ) that the bottom EC44 cup had too short of a stack for Rockshocks fork knobs. Can anyone confirm or deny before I make a order.

    Thank you

  39. #2639
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    I'm getting ready to order a Honzo AL/DL frame and planning on swapping out components from my new Diamondback Mason...


    Question- the mason has a 12 X 142 Maxle, while the Honzo has a 12 X 148..Is there such thing as a hub spacer or a means so that I can use the wheelset off my Mason? Thanks in advance...I've never built up a frame before, so a bit of a learning curve here.

  40. #2640
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    Why not just go with the steel frame? Then you don't have to deal with boost spacing or a pressfit bottom bracket.

  41. #2641
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    Hello all,

    I have a 2014 Kona Honzo I just bought a 130mm Pike for it to upgrade from the revelation... I am thinking about changing out the stock headset to a Cane Creek 40 series but I remember seeing in this thread or another one ( I cant seem to find it ) that the bottom EC44 cup had too short of a stack for Rockshocks fork knobs. Can anyone confirm or deny before I make a order.

    Thank you
    Not totally sure on the Pike vs Rev, but I run a Rev with a CC40. Had CC40 on both a 2013 and 2016.

  42. #2642
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    Hello all,

    I have a 2014 Kona Honzo I just bought a 130mm Pike for it to upgrade from the revelation... I am thinking about changing out the stock headset to a Cane Creek 40 series but I remember seeing in this thread or another one ( I cant seem to find it ) that the bottom EC44 cup had too short of a stack for Rockshocks fork knobs. Can anyone confirm or deny before I make a order.

    Thank you
    You will not have any issue with a zero stack cane creek 40 headset, the knobs are far from where the crown race will be pressed, there is no reason this should ever be an issue.

  43. #2643
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    Honzo SS Rigid Semi Fat

    Clydesdale CrossCountry version here~(Honzos can climb too!)

    Been rockin the Honz as SS and Salsa Cromoto 15maxle Rigid with 29x3.0 front for 6mos. Settting new PR's all the time - loving it.

    *QUESTION IS...anyone on the '15/16 think there's room in the back for the 29+ tire? I know B+ is should be ok on them...but I'm lookin to jam a 9+.. Would make a great Ros9+ or Trek Stache killer!

    Love the Honzo. Ride on!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-hssrfatty.jpg  


  44. #2644
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    You will not have any issue with a zero stack cane creek 40 headset, the knobs are far from where the crown race will be pressed, there is no reason this should ever be an issue.
    He means the lower cup and race being shorter overall than the originals leading to the fork knobs having little or no clearance under the downtube... (I don't know if this is in fact a problem I'm just explaining it for you)

  45. #2645
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    More to the point why change from a new Mason? Much of a muchness

  46. #2646
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    More to the point why change from a new Mason? Much of a muchness
    As much as I love the Mason, the frame is too small...I ordered it online and should have went with a med; not a small.. I've been looking at either a Honzo or Yelli and swapping out the parts from the Mason.

  47. #2647
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    Quote Originally Posted by use2vw View Post
    *QUESTION IS...anyone on the '15/16 think there's room in the back for the 29+ tire?
    You can try fitting your 29+ front wheel and see if it works. Obviously you won't be able to actually attach the front hub into the rear dropouts, but it should at least fit into about the right spot to give you an idea.

    My guess is it won't fit, but I guess it might if you were to extend the dropouts all the way to the back.
    Living the dream at TDA Global Cycling epic bike tours from 500 to 15,000 km.

    TDA Global Cycling

  48. #2648
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    Quote Originally Posted by micah356 View Post
    You can try fitting your 29+ front wheel and see if it works. Obviously you won't be able to actually attach the front hub into the rear dropouts, but it should at least fit into about the right spot to give you an idea.

    My guess is it won't fit, but I guess it might if you were to extend the dropouts all the way to the back.
    However his isn't a 15/16' frame. I'm curious about this myself, if a 29+ on say a WTB i35 rim would fit........... I'd be a happy man!
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  49. #2649
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    Oh ok, I missed that part. If I ever see someone around here with a 29+ wheel I'll ask them to let me try fitting it.
    Living the dream at TDA Global Cycling epic bike tours from 500 to 15,000 km.

    TDA Global Cycling

  50. #2650
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    Quote Originally Posted by use2vw View Post

    *QUESTION IS...anyone on the '15/16 think there's room in the back for the 29+ tire? I know B+ is should be ok on them...but I'm lookin to jam a 9+.. Would make a great Ros9+ or Trek Stache killer!
    I have a '16 AL DL with boost. There is not clearance for 29+ on this bike period. They went wider to fit shorter chainstays not tire clearance. Coming from a Krampus to this bike I miss nothing. If anything the added traction of decent tire options + the Fox34 make up for the lack in tire volume.

  51. #2651
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    Anyone know where I can purchase an extra Derailleur hanger for the 2016 Frame? Or the Correct one?
    Last edited by NEET; 10-24-2015 at 05:21 AM.
    Bike~less

  52. #2652
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    I think this is the correct one.

    Bikeman.com

    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    Anyone know where I can purchase an extra Derailleur hanger for the 2016 Frame? Or the Correct one? I haven't receive my frame yet.
    -VeloRyan-

  53. #2653
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    Does anyone bought already Honzo frame on Bikeman.com? What did you get with frame?
    Last edited by q232; 10-24-2015 at 08:21 AM.

  54. #2654
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    Just snagged a M raw 2015 frame to build up.
    DVO Diamond
    XTR 1x10
    XTR brakes
    Thomson dropper
    Spline 1 XM wheelset
    Etc etc.

    THis frame uses a threaded BB right?

  55. #2655
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    Yes, all steel Honzos have a threaded bb. We're probably going to need comparisons once you get time on the Honzo to the Riot as that is an interesting FS.

  56. #2656
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    Quote Originally Posted by q232 View Post
    Does anyone bought already Honzo frame on Bikeman.com? What did you get with frame?
    Which year frame? I got my 2015 from them, just came as frame with dropouts (obviously), but no maxle... The 2016 should come with the maxle.

  57. #2657
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    Hi guys,

    I've made the decision to get the 2016 Honzo steel frame and build it up myself. This is my first time doing a build on my own. The previous one was with an experienced friend and the frame I bought on CL already had the headset, stem, and BB with it.

    My question then is how do I know the specifications of what I need to order? I'm going to have the shop take care of the headset since I don't have a press so they can help me figure that out, though I'd prefer to get the headset myself and then have them install when the frame comes in. And I'm unsure about the BB and hub spacing. Kona's site doesn't seem to give this information. I've been reading through this thread, but I'm a bit at sea.

    thanks,
    b

  58. #2658
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdawson808 View Post
    Hi guys,

    I've made the decision to get the 2016 Honzo steel frame and build it up myself. This is my first time doing a build on my own. The previous one was with an experienced friend and the frame I bought on CL already had the headset, stem, and BB with it.

    My question then is how do I know the specifications of what I need to order? I'm going to have the shop take care of the headset since I don't have a press so they can help me figure that out, though I'd prefer to get the headset myself and then have them install when the frame comes in. And I'm unsure about the BB and hub spacing. Kona's site doesn't seem to give this information. I've been reading through this thread, but I'm a bit at sea.

    thanks,
    b
    Great call going custom steel.

    Headset is 44 upper 56 lower, cane creek 40 zero stack is a good call

    Bb is threaded, 73mm

    Seat post is 31.6

    142x12 rear hub

  59. #2659
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    This is my first time assembling a bike. I have a RaceFace Crank that comes w/ 3 spacers, Do you guys happen to know if I am suppose to use the spacers for 1x10 setup? in the installation manual, there's no mentioning of 1x10, only 2x10 & 3x10.

    http://www.raceface.com/comp/inst/B1...anks_11x17.pdf
    Bike~less

  60. #2660
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    This is my first time assembling a bike. I have a RaceFace Crank that comes w/ 3 spacers, Do you guys happen to know if I am suppose to use the spacers for 1x10 setup? in the installation manual, there's no mentioning of 1x10, only 2x10 & 3x10.

    http://www.raceface.com/comp/inst/B1...anks_11x17.pdf
    The spacers have nothing to do with chainline, that bottom bracket is meant for 68-73mm widths... The honzo has a 73mm bb shell portion of the frame. For my XT bottom bracket, I just use one spacer on the drive side. The instructions should say how many spacers to use dependent on the frames bb shell area (not sure what the correct term for that section is, but where the bottom bracket threads in)

  61. #2661
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    Quote Originally Posted by q232 View Post
    Does anyone bought already Honzo frame on Bikeman.com? What did you get with frame?
    Just got my 2016 this week. It comes with a maxle and some plastic clips.

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    South Central PA

  62. #2662
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    Coming back from neck/back fracture I'm going to go with a squishy bike for a change. I'll be putting my large 2015 frame up for sale shortly.

  63. #2663
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSPChilliwack View Post
    Coming back from neck/back fracture I'm going to go with a squishy bike for a change. I'll be putting my large 2015 frame up for sale shortly.
    Sorry to hear about your injury, glad to hear its in the recovery/recovered phase. I sent you a PM regarding your frame.

  64. #2664
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    He means the lower cup and race being shorter overall than the originals leading to the fork knobs having little or no clearance under the downtube... (I don't know if this is in fact a problem I'm just explaining it for you)
    Thanks man.

  65. #2665
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    Anyone have any real world comparison between the steel and aluminum honzos?

    I ride a steel 2014 now and really liking the new 2016s. Just wondering. Got a buddy looking after riding mine but not sure if the aluminum will ride like the steel.

  66. #2666
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    Anyone tried a 27.5+ rear and 29+ front combo on their Honzo? I'm running a new DW up front and really like it, but want some feedback before I drop $$ on a 27.5 rear wheel.

  67. #2667
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    Is anyone willing to part with a 2015 in XL? If so, please let me know. I would prefer a frame only, but I am flexible....

  68. #2668
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    I ran into a problem, There seem to be a lot of play with the Fork and Frame/HeadTube. Is the issue here is improper install of the Headset? I've tighten the top cap but no luck.
    Bike~less

  69. #2669
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    I ran into a problem, There seem to be a lot of play with the Fork and Frame/HeadTube. Is the issue here is improper install of the Headset? I've tighten the top cap but no luck.
    It's hard to say without knowing more. Where is the play coming from? What kind of headset is it? Who installed the headset, and have you ridden it at all or is it fresh from the shop?

    Is the top-cap bottomed out on the steerer tube? If so, you'll have to cut it down a bit or add another spacer in there somewhere.

  70. #2670
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    Also is ALL the headset parts installed correctly?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  71. #2671
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    Sounds like the issue I had (seems fairly common). The head tube on my 2012 frame was slightly ovalized. Just came that way form the factory. I kept thinking it was the headset, and after a lot of hair pulling, finally discovered it was just not 100% concentric.

    Some shops will have a tool that basically hones out the headtube and returns it to normal. My headset fit perfectly afterwards and solved the problem. I'd get it fixed sooner than later. The longer you ride it like this the more oval it can become.

    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    I ran into a problem, There seem to be a lot of play with the Fork and Frame/HeadTube. Is the issue here is improper install of the Headset? I've tighten the top cap but no luck.

  72. #2672
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    And something even more basic (I apologize if this comes across as too basic....but I've seen it happen): make sure when you are tightening the top cap that the stem bolts (i.e., the ones which attach the stem to the steer tube) are loose.


    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Sounds like the issue I had (seems fairly common). The head tube on my 2012 frame was slightly ovalized. Just came that way form the factory. I kept thinking it was the headset, and after a lot of hair pulling, finally discovered it was just not 100% concentric.

    Some shops will have a tool that basically hones out the headtube and returns it to normal. My headset fit perfectly afterwards and solved the problem. I'd get it fixed sooner than later. The longer you ride it like this the more oval it can become.

  73. #2673
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    It's hard to say without knowing more. Where is the play coming from? What kind of headset is it? Who installed the headset, and have you ridden it at all or is it fresh from the shop?

    Is the top-cap bottomed out on the steerer tube? If so, you'll have to cut it down a bit or add another spacer in there somewhere.
    I hold the front brake while moving the bike forward & backward so I'm guessing its from the top part of the Headset?

    The HeadSet is FSA Orbit 1.5 ZS Headset (No.57) Tapered Steerer, I think this is what it looks like http://www.ultimatecyclestore.com/im...cb-1-5-red.jpg, Actual Photo: Looks like there's a Gap? - Actual Photo
    I installed the Headset myself.

    I'm afraid of overtightening the top cap. Should I keep tightening it?

    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Also is ALL the headset parts installed correctly?
    I believe so... the Crown race is install on the fork w/ Larger bearings goes on Top of the crown race. The smaller one goes on Top of the Headtube, than the gold piece > rubber piece & lastly the metal piece w/ the logo. I'm gonna if I bought the wrong Headset.

    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Sounds like the issue I had (seems fairly common). The head tube on my 2012 frame was slightly ovalized. Just came that way form the factory. I kept thinking it was the headset, and after a lot of hair pulling, finally discovered it was just not 100% concentric.

    Some shops will have a tool that basically hones out the headtube and returns it to normal. My headset fit perfectly afterwards and solved the problem. I'd get it fixed sooner than later. The longer you ride it like this the more oval it can become.
    How much did it cost you to FIX it? I've already installed everything.
    Bike~less

  74. #2674
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    Looks like something isn't right on upper headset assembly. You shouldn't have that gap.
    See if you can find an online assembly or installation schematic for that model FSA headset.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  75. #2675
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    You asked how much it would cost to fix... So I assume you installed yourself? Did you actually use a headset press to install the cups? As mentioned above, that gap doesn't look normal. I looked up the headset you bought and it should be correct. If you don't have a press, you should have the headset cups installed professionally

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  77. #2677
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    I honestly think the problem here is that you are not getting enough compression with the top cap to clamp everything down (fit of headset looks fine etc.). When you installed your top cap, did the stem protrude over the steer tube by 2-3mm? If it didn't, you're not going to get enough pressure. Not doing this by enough caused me fits one time.

  78. #2678
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    Always check to see if it's plugged in first!

    I'm guessing the headtube is ovalized. I discovered it's not an uncommon problem with the Honzo, at least on earlier frames. It's very slight, but just enough to get a little bit of play in the headset.

    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    And something even more basic (I apologize if this comes across as too basic....but I've seen it happen): make sure when you are tightening the top cap that the stem bolts (i.e., the ones which attach the stem to the steer tube) are loose.

  79. #2679
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    Before NEET assumes he has an ovalized headtube...

    NEET, do this first (sorry if I'm repeating, but make sure you double check the following).

    - crown race fully seated / flush on the fork's upper crown
    - when assembling the front end assembly (fork/headset/fork/stem) that you tighten the top cap before tightening in the stem pinch bolts

    If those fail then check your starnut to ensure that its at the appropriate depth that enables the correct amount of torque to be applied to the entire vertical assembly.

    Just trying to help, so forgive me if I'm reiterating what others have already stated - just trying to get all the info in one post for you.

    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Always check to see if it's plugged in first!

    I'm guessing the headtube is ovalized. I discovered it's not an uncommon problem with the Honzo, at least on earlier frames. It's very slight, but just enough to get a little bit of play in the headset.

  80. #2680
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    I guess I assume he'd already done these things. A quick pass with a micrometer will rule out or confirm any 'ovalization'.

    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    Before NEET assumes he has an ovalized headtube...

    NEET, do this first (sorry if I'm repeating, but make sure you double check the following).

    - crown race fully seated / flush on the fork's upper crown
    - when assembling the front end assembly (fork/headset/fork/stem) that you tighten the top cap before tightening in the stem pinch bolts

    If those fail then check your starnut to ensure that its at the appropriate depth that enables the correct amount of torque to be applied to the entire vertical assembly.

    Just trying to help, so forgive me if I'm reiterating what others have already stated - just trying to get all the info in one post for you.

  81. #2681
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    How are you all routing your internal droppers? There are some bolts that look like they might be involved but there's no dedicated guides...?

  82. #2682
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    ...

  83. #2683
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    How are you all routing your internal droppers? There are some bolts that look like they might be involved but there's no dedicated guides...?
    Your right - the bolts along the downtube are meant to hold cable guide clamps, but they are unfortunately not provided with the bike.

    It would be something like this, but I have no idea if these specific ones are the right size: Nukeproof Pulse Removable Cable Guide Kit | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Living the dream at TDA Global Cycling epic bike tours from 500 to 15,000 km.

    TDA Global Cycling

  84. #2684
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    Quote Originally Posted by micah356 View Post
    Your right - the bolts along the downtube are meant to hold cable guide clamps, but they are unfortunately not provided with the bike.

    It would be something like this, but I have no idea if these specific ones are the right size: Nukeproof Pulse Removable Cable Guide Kit | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Thanks, that's kind of what I had imagined. I might just try and fabricate some out of a sheet of black plastic. Thanks for the tip!

  85. #2685
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    UPDATE*

    well, I manage to pop / destroy the upper bearing's seal I've tighten it to the point where the fork wasn't moving freely. I'm starting to think the headset is like that. I took a closer look into where the little clunk sound is coming from & its came from the fork's lower leg . what to do... I am considering a new Headset and have the LBS install it for $30.
    Last edited by NEET; 11-02-2015 at 07:00 PM.
    Bike~less

  86. #2686
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    Are you sure what you're feeling isn't just the pads rocking/moving in the caliper making the clunk?

    You can check by locking front brake up and put fingers on point where pads come out of brake caliper and rock bike back and forth to feel the movement...I'm betting this is what you're hearing/feeling.



    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    UPDATE*

    well, I mange to pop / destroy the upper bearing's seal I've tighten it to the point where the fork wasn't moving freely. I'm starting to think the headset is like that. I took a closer look into where the little clunk sound is coming from & its came from the fork's lower leg . what to do... I am considering a new Headset and have the LBS install it for $30.
    -VeloRyan-

  87. #2687
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-dscn0519-copy.jpg

  88. #2688
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hell Yeah! That looks great man!

  89. #2689
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    Does look really good. How's the diamond (is that at 140? Looks slacker)? I have a Fox 34 to put on mine, a couple years old, so older damper. Since I switched to a Pike on my other bike I've been a bit critical of the Fox. I just had it serviced and tuned, so we'll see if that makes a difference.

  90. #2690
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    I'm very critical of FOX, (haven't ridden the 2016 stuff to be fair), and I've had a few Pikes too. DVO is the best fork I've ridden by a country mile. So nice!

    THanks for the kind words. Yes, it's at 140.

  91. #2691
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    The green is hot

  92. #2692
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    I'm wondering what people are running for a rear tire. I'm thinking I want to run the highest volume 29" tire in the rear, maybe a minion 2.5 or something similar?

    It'll be mounted on Flow EXs.

  93. #2693
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skedasticity View Post
    I'm wondering what people are running for a rear tire. I'm thinking I want to run the highest volume 29" tire in the rear, maybe a minion 2.5 or something similar?

    It'll be mounted on Flow EXs.
    My ardent 2.4 on 30mm internal tires is monster. Wouldn't use it a sa front tire though.

  94. #2694
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    My ardent 2.4 on 30mm internal tires is monster. Wouldn't use it a sa front tire though.
    Yeah, I was thinking maybe ardent 2.4 in the back and minion 2.5 front for a little less rolling resistance, though I'm mostly wanting a high volume rear.

    Could be similar volumes though if they measure the minion width based on wide knobs...

  95. #2695
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    Yeah the casing on the ardent 2.4 is huge

  96. #2696
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skedasticity View Post
    I'm wondering what people are running for a rear tire. I'm thinking I want to run the highest volume 29" tire in the rear, maybe a minion 2.5 or something similar?

    It'll be mounted on Flow EXs.
    I'm running minion dhf 2.5 front and rear, the 2.5 on a 30mm internal rim measures about 2.7 at the knobs and I have plenty of room to spare

  97. #2697
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skedasticity View Post
    Could be similar volumes though if they measure the minion width based on wide knobs...
    The Minion DHF 2.5, Ardent 2.4 and Ikon 2.35 use the same 58mm casing. The knobs make the difference in total width - 64mm, 60/61mm, and 59mm respectively on an i23 WTB rim running mid 20's psi. Any of those tires mentioned makes Maxxis' 2.3 and smaller tires look... small.

  98. #2698
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    Custom Honzo Build

    Large Honzo. Only two rides but digging the nimbleness in the twisties. Way quicker than my long Spearfish.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpg  


  99. #2699
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    Hi all. My first post on this forum. Only fitting it should be in the thread that is largely responsible for me owning this lovely 2012 Honzo 20L. Zee discs, XT breaks, 40mm stem and 785mm bars. Powder coated chrome and set up with 142x12 dropouts and a Koozer hub. Thanks for all the inspiration Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo.jpg

  100. #2700
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    ^^ This one looks awesome. I like the skinwalls!

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